I have a couple of belt line pins holes. I can access back side totally to clean up the corrosion issue. This will work. Best solution yet. First time viewer to boot!
No, as long as the heat is applied evenly and it’s allowed to cool slowly. Warping happens primarily during the cool cycle. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@gillrodshop Bro, do you know any alternatives to the Eastwood brand? I can't find any retailers in Canada that sell this product, and it will cost me over $100 CAD to purchase directly from Eastwood.
@@p.stroker8920 I don’t know of any. You are the second person that can’t find any Eastwood vendors in Canada. If you find someone there that sells it, please post. I don’t know if the link will help you any if they don’t ship out of the US but here you go www.eastwood.com/welders/mig-welders.html
Outstanding. I think you're a natural teacher. I am definitely gonna add this method to my bag of tricks. This video makes me confident that I can do it too.
My doctor won’t allow me to use a welder because I have a defibrillator. I want to farm out as little work as possible. My ‘69 Firebird could use this type of repair in the rear window channel. Thank you.
This type of repair should work well in that application as long as it is rust free and clean. I know that Firebird will be awesome once it is done! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have a pin hole issue near the bottom passenger side corner of my windshield on a Chevy pickup I’m fixing up. I don’t intend for a show quality truck just something I can drive and enjoy. I can’t access the back of the area. Would you still advise using this method if I can’t use rust inhibitor on the back side of the surface area I’m working on?
The window doglegs usually rust from the outside in but if it rusted from the inside out I would want to find the source of moisture and address that first. You should be able to use this method with success on pinholes in window frames. Thanks 😊
Great tutorial on leading, the time I tried I was obviously using too much heat as it looked like all you used was just enough to get a good fast melt on the lead before paddling it into the holes and flattening it. If I ever get the chance to do that again, I'll remember this!
I need to repair some small screw holes and a few Mig Welding seams on a car I'm working on. Never used lead before and watched a few YT videos on the technique. Yours is the best one and was very helpful to me. The result you got here was amazing. I hope mine looks as good as yours. Thank you
Ford Fan Thank you for that. You most definitely can repair screw holes with this method and the weld seam as well. I suggest a good quality direct to metal epoxy primer over it. Thanks again!
Keep in mind that tin is under the lead, that tin won’t rust, and lead won’t bond to bare steel, making it impossible for rust to be trapped between the lead and steel! Sand the flash rust from the steel with a soap/water solution just before applying a primer/sealer. I used to use the neutralizing washes but noticed that the dang metal would flash rust anyway after a few hours 😂 and I had to prep it again before the substrate application. Thanks for pointing that out. 🙂
Yes, this works on larger holes, too! Just be sure that the lead has concave metal around it so it’ll hold once it’s filed flat with the surrounding surface. Here’s a link to a video I published in which I fill some larger holes with body solder. Thanks for watching! ruclips.net/video/2W_zKEjgaLo/видео.html
I have a 70 Camaro that was body worked and repainted I assume in the late 80s early 90s most all the filler shows cracks in it from age or deterioration.. The factory lead that connects the sail panel from the roof to the quarter is still perfect. Speaks highly of a repair like this...This cant be any worse for you health wise than all the chemicals in modern paints and primers just be cautious and use PPE.
I’ve never tried it but it should work if the plug is larger than the hole and placed on the backside and lead on top. I have tacked welded a plug and then use lead body filler over it! Thanks!
Lead sticks to the tin but I’ve had problems tinning aluminum. The short answer is no, I haven’t been able to make it stick to aluminum. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Robert Halseth yes but as soon as the pit gets hot enough to melt the lead it’ll fall out. Welding may be the better option in that case. Thanks for watching and commenting! 🙂
Great to see the old method for filling holes on panels. That lead won't go anywhere, like you say - far better than fillers. We vsll that technique 'lead loading' in the UK. One question - can you use this method on holes in flatter panels ? I am just thinking applying heat to one area on a flatter panel may cause distortion of the metal ?
Chris Ward thanks for watching and commenting! You should be fine as long as you heat the area around it evenly. The heat isn’t so bad but uneven heating/cooling is what warps panels. I’ve had car bodies baked and dipped in acid to strip the old body lead, fillers, and paint from them and they turn the oven up to 800 degrees F. 🙂
I'm repairing rust holes in a child's wagon. The wagon was sandblasted and epoxy primered. Do I have to sand or grind the epoxy off to bare metal to solder the holes?
Yes, you will have to take it back to bare metal and tin it before soldering. Being that the wagon is just a single panel without a sub panel behind it the repair work will be visible from the inside.
Tallow is rendered animal fat that has a higher flash point and doesn’t effect the ability of the lead to stick. Crisco is vegetable oil and will burn. The soldering paste is an acid based flux with fine lead in it. It gives a cleaning effect while leaving lead on the surface. I was shown how by a retired Chrysler body tech who did it on repairs for decades. Plastic body filler as we know it was introduce in the 50’s and was not widely accepted in the industry at first until guys who never wore respirators with a two step system that had a dust filter on top of an activate carbon filter that 3M has made so popular and cheap. Just buy filter packs, twist-on and keep going. When you smell paint thru your mask, it is time to shave or replace your filters. Sanding lead is never done as this dust will attract the nervous system, just like lead-based house paint. The roof on cars and trucks were attached using this method at the seam after spot welding and by no means is it a “Structural” component to the vehicle. It is just a low temp metal filler that is shaped by temp control and wood paddles dipped in tallow to make them slide. Masters of this can do an entire sail-panel joint in 10 minutes and paint ready as well. I would make sure any drain holes in the rocker are not plugged. They are on the bottom back side of rockers and next to door skins. The door outer belt molding with the fuzzy or felt will let moisture inside the door skin, along with humidity that condenses on cool nights after a muggy day. It forms droplets that run down to the door seam. Any vehicle that is rust free in the first 10+ years can and does need cavity wax (Yellow Stuff) sprayed inside on these internal seems. Use a tooth pick to make sure they are open after a day or so. It will help keep rust away for decades. Certified Automotive ASE master tech since 1978, retired.
@@gillrodshop I am in Omaha but learned how cars work on my own until I helped a guy build a shop behind his house. I apprenticed with him. After 28 years in a Chrysler dealer, he told me he learned more in 6 years in a speed shop. I will never forget Carl. He has passed, but a skinny, patient man and straight shooter with me and customers!
No need for backing plate? The lead won’t flow into the other side? I’m planning to use this on bottom of my car door it has small rust holes. Thank you
No need for a backing plate if the hole is small. This video that I’ve linked below shows a blind hole done on a T-top pillar and what the lead looks like from the backside once it’s done. You have to use the proper heat and not over heat it though. Thanks for watching and commenting! ruclips.net/video/ur-etZqrnXk/видео.html
@Gill Rod Shop perfect thank you so much, Eastwood has the smallest kit on back order until January but at least now I have a better alternative thank you!
That repair looked great when you were done, I was thinking you could just primer and paint it now, but perhaps a little glaze never hurt for the hidden low spots
Awesome! Have exactly the same holes that I need filling. Most shops want to weld in a patch for a few hundred bucks. Glad I found this video. Thanks in advance.
Excellent job! Would love to try this method. Not sure I can get lot on Canada but will sure look into it! Old school was always the best fix! Thanks for sharing!!
Vicki k Gibson Thanks, I usually would not do a hole that large but I thought I'd give it a shot and it's held so far and I'm sure it'll work the same for you. Good luck on your project and stay tuned to my channel to see a weld in panel repair in the near future. Thanks much.
It should be but you may have to de-chrome it, repair, and chrome it again. I haven’t tested on a bumper yet but I do have a piece of dash trim at the chrome shop now and I’ll publish a video as soon as I get the piece back. These pieces are stainless and I filled a couple of dings with lead body solder.
Glaze only goes on top of primer, not direct to metal. Body filler goes direct to metal for those that dont know. Thanks for the leading tutorial. Sweet video man.
I usually use a 3M number 801 two part professional glaze that bonds to: primer, metal, fiberglass, and aluminum. Thanks for the suggestion. Sorry about not including the glaze type in the video.
Good question, Rob! I try to always protect myself with PPE (personal protective equipment) as much as possible because this stuff may cause some illness that we don’t know about yet but the older guys (G. Barris and B. Hines) that used the real lead lived to be 90 plus. Happy Lead Slinging! 🙂
Got a bunch of rivet holes where the trim around short vinyl top was secured. Getting rid of vinyl so thinking about this to fill rivet holes. Great video. Thanks
I only mig weld when joining two sheets together. This method will be utilized next job. Ill tack with mig and seem up with lead. realy cool vid fella! subbed.
Solid job.. i mig my holes and like you suggested.. rust encapsulate the backside.. ive really grown fond of the body solder technique.. kind of a dying art.. i think u might have coaxed me into buying a kit!
The finish looks fantastic, Gill.! I have a 1988 motorcycle fuel tank with the exact same small rust holes, do you think your repair method would suffice?
Will this work in a situation where you need the top and underside of the hole to look good? I want to fill luggage rack holes on a TR6 decklid and the metal is visible on both sides. Thanks!
Nice way of doing it, but please tell how does the two different matals work when expanded/shrinked from heat/cold over time? My first tought was why not just weld it? Thanks
Frili Me I've welded a lot of patch panels but this is about not welding. Lead has been installed in millions of factory cars but not many people still use it anymore. As long as the temperature doesn't reach the melting point of the lead it should be okay. Thanks for the observation.
thanks for making this video - i need to do this on my vanagon window. never done it before, but this video is a great 'how to' that gives me some confidence to give it a go!!
Thanks a lot Gill. My 70s Challenger has holes someone drilled in and this repair is perfect. I have been grinding out ALL BONDO and going to bare metal in all the flawed and damaged areas.
tyler hoskins I wore all PPE but if those toxins got through my PPE I should at least live to be 90 like George Barris bc he used a ton of body lead. Thanks
First off...never paint over bare metal! You need a good direct to metal primer before top coating. Epoxy primer sticks to everything, and has good rust prevention characteristics.
Im a painter myself, never done lead. Im just curious how long that would last or if it would cause ANY issues down the road. I would try to weld when I could but I certainly see the time savings here and how easy it is.
Nice job bro any idea how long did it last? Did it blister back out? Looking for another alternative instead of welding on a thin roof, This is a great video. Thanks.
It’s still holding well! Just be sure to neutralize or properly prep the metal before top coating! If your vehicle is a classic it has lead filler in the pillars already, more than likely. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏾
@@gillrodshop i don't know if you grow facial hair but just one day of stubble multiplies the respirator leakage by multiples of a thousand. I have a full beard and don't have the money for a forced air system. I reckon filing the lead is best, but I'm not any expert
@@mikem5475 you may do it both ways but using a power tool is the quickest way. I try to protect myself to the best of my ability! The guys of old used to not wear any PPE and those dudes are still alive with full heads of hair 😂
My Harley-Davidson gas tank has several small dents in it, could they be filled using this solder and would it survive the heat of powder coating after the tank is repaired?
David MacGregor that is an excellent question. I'm not so sure that it would stand up to temps (+\-400degF) that high. I guess it would also depend on how long it's at that temp. I've had car bodies dipped in acid tanks but they bake them about 8 hours at about 800 degrees before they dip them and all the solder melts off the body at that temp and time period. I can try it if you want me to?
Eastwood has a led free body filler they sell. It’s applied the same way. It’s melting point is a lot higher, maybe 600 degrees. I just had some metal powder coated that I used the body filler on and the heat from the powder coating was not a problem.
Gantry Crane, I could probably fill a hole the size of a dime. Yes, you’d want to neutralize, prime, and then paint. The auto industry used this stuff years ago to fill gaps where the B pillars are welded to the roof and where the quarter panels are welded/brazed to the trunk pan. Thanks for watching!
Gill Rod Shop Cool so this would be a good technique to fill the bolt holes after you remove fender flares right? That’s what I’m thinking of here. If you get a chance to post a link to the lead that you use, that would be great.
@@gillrodshop I'm totally trying this on a test piece first... so the steps are, clean metal really well (40 grit etc), apply tinning agent, flux (zinc chloriode) , hit with lead, then wash with water/baking soda to neutralize the acids in flux?
@@mikep509 Yes, sounds like you have it! You may want to get the metal as bright as possible by using a low speed wire brush chucked to a drill motor then scuff the area around it where you want the lead to feather with the metal, scuff/sand with a course grit (80-120) for a smoother transition around the edge. Then you may go to a 220 grit and it should look almost seamless. I’ve also published a video of me doing a Z28 T-Top area that may help. Thanks!
Fat T it's definitely easier than welding that thin metal but just remember not to apply too much heat when applying the body solder and you'll do just fine. Thanks
This method is quicker and can be done at a lower temperature. From my experience the mig would make this hole 3 times the size before it would start filling in. Also, no need to worry that much about warping due to the low temperature. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. Can a repair done with the lead stick be chromed? I am looking for a way to patch a few holes in an 80's motorcycle muffler as they are no longer available for the restoration. Thank you!
VMX anything that is conducive can be chromed. Plastic and other poor conductors can be chromed also, but the process is different! I spoke with a chrome plater today and he said he can chrome over tin/lead filler. Send a picture of the area on the muffler that you're repairing and maybe I can offer some advice. Thanks
Not that I know what am I talking about but why not using aluminum insted of lead? Im just asking because of health reasons. Nice work btw. Thanks for sharing.
@@gillrodshop Sorry Gill, you did show that in your video, I just missed it...For some reason I thought you were using a B Tank or something hotter than Mapp or Propane.
I haven't done any lead work since the 80's. Glad to see you passing on that old but good tech Gill.
Desert Mike DIY thanks.
I must learn to do this , I hate bondo or as we say in Australia bog ,
I have a couple of belt line pins holes. I can access back side totally to clean up the corrosion issue. This will work. Best solution yet. First time viewer to boot!
Thanks Eric Martinson, I’m sure it’ll turn out great!
Is warping a concern using this method?
No, as long as the heat is applied evenly and it’s allowed to cool slowly. Warping happens primarily during the cool cycle. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@gillrodshop Bro, do you know any alternatives to the Eastwood brand? I can't find any retailers in Canada that sell this product, and it will cost me over $100 CAD to purchase directly from Eastwood.
@@p.stroker8920 I don’t know of any. You are the second person that can’t find any Eastwood vendors in Canada. If you find someone there that sells it, please post. I don’t know if the link will help you any if they don’t ship out of the US but here you go www.eastwood.com/welders/mig-welders.html
this man is doing gods work 👏🏽
Thank you!
🤣
Outstanding.
I think you're a natural teacher.
I am definitely gonna add this method to my bag of tricks.
This video makes me confident that I can do it too.
Thanks Tee Jay! 🙂
do you have the link of items you use ?
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-basic-body-solder-kit-basic.html
Using a punch is a good idea. Don't know why I didn't think of it. I haven't gotten a body hammer yet.
Thanks!
Excellent video, I've never thought of using lead to repair holes. I'm going to try this myself. Thank you.
Thanks!
I've got rust holes on top of the f100 rain runners
My doctor won’t allow me to use a welder because I have a defibrillator. I want to farm out as little work as possible. My ‘69 Firebird could use this type of repair in the rear window channel. Thank you.
This type of repair should work well in that application as long as it is rust free and clean. I know that Firebird will be awesome once it is done! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have a pin hole issue near the bottom passenger side corner of my windshield on a Chevy pickup I’m fixing up. I don’t intend for a show quality truck just something I can drive and enjoy. I can’t access the back of the area. Would you still advise using this method if I can’t use rust inhibitor on the back side of the surface area I’m working on?
The window doglegs usually rust from the outside in but if it rusted from the inside out I would want to find the source of moisture and address that first. You should be able to use this method with success on pinholes in window frames. Thanks 😊
Thank you Gill, I will use this method fixing all the pin holes on vintage Harley Davidson gas tank. Great video!
Paul Healey, it should workout just fine! Thanks
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Great tutorial on leading, the time I tried I was obviously using too much heat as it looked like all you used was just enough to get a good fast melt on the lead before paddling it into the holes and flattening it. If I ever get the chance to do that again, I'll remember this!
Thank you!
How about using a windshield sticker remover razor set up to remove excess lead after it cools down , lead is a soft "very"soft metal
Thanks! 👍🏾
I need to repair some small screw holes and a few Mig Welding seams on a car I'm working on. Never used lead before and watched a few YT videos on the technique. Yours is the best one and was very helpful to me. The result you got here was amazing. I hope mine looks as good as yours. Thank you
Ford Fan Thank you for that. You most definitely can repair screw holes with this method and the weld seam as well. I suggest a good quality direct to metal epoxy primer over it. Thanks again!
You didn’t neutralise the acid before putting the lead in , so therefore that will rust under the lead again.
Keep in mind that tin is under the lead, that tin won’t rust, and lead won’t bond to bare steel, making it impossible for rust to be trapped between the lead and steel! Sand the flash rust from the steel with a soap/water solution just before applying a primer/sealer. I used to use the neutralizing washes but noticed that the dang metal would flash rust anyway after a few hours 😂 and I had to prep it again before the substrate application. Thanks for pointing that out. 🙂
i was searching around cause i thought it was my phone vibrating
Yeah…I put that in to keep folk awake! 😂
How about if it's a bigger hole? I don't know how to weld, is there another way .. Thanks
Yes, this works on larger holes, too! Just be sure that the lead has concave metal around it so it’ll hold once it’s filed flat with the surrounding surface. Here’s a link to a video I published in which I fill some larger holes with body solder. Thanks for watching!
ruclips.net/video/2W_zKEjgaLo/видео.html
Dont sand it! You dont want lead particles in the air! Just use a file, lead wont go airborn
tehdreamer I file sometimes but seems to take me longer plus the 70/30 loads up the file. Thanks
That's why he said it will last his lifetime.
I have a 70 Camaro that was body worked and repainted I assume in the late 80s early 90s most all the filler shows cracks in it from age or deterioration.. The factory lead that connects the sail panel from the roof to the quarter is still perfect. Speaks highly of a repair like this...This cant be any worse for you health wise than all the chemicals in modern paints and primers just be cautious and use PPE.
Scott Coleman thanks.
hello, can you give me full name product for this 9:10, where can i find that ?
www.eastwood.com/ew-lead-solder-stick-1-lb.html
If I have an antenna hole about an inch wide on my roof, can I use a scrap piece of metal and lead it in place before final finishing?
I’ve never tried it but it should work if the plug is larger than the hole and placed on the backside and lead on top. I have tacked welded a plug and then use lead body filler over it! Thanks!
Were do u get that body solder at? I have rust holes in my hood & side doors
Eastwood Tools.
Does lead and aluminum stick together?thank you.
Lead sticks to the tin but I’ve had problems tinning aluminum. The short answer is no, I haven’t been able to make it stick to aluminum. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can small rust holes in a steel fire pit be repaired using this body solder method?
Robert Halseth yes but as soon as the pit gets hot enough to melt the lead it’ll fall out. Welding may be the better option in that case. Thanks for watching and commenting! 🙂
Great to see the old method for filling holes on panels. That lead won't go anywhere, like you say - far better than fillers. We vsll that technique 'lead loading' in the UK. One question - can you use this method on holes in flatter panels ? I am just thinking applying heat to one area on a flatter panel may cause distortion of the metal ?
Chris Ward thanks for watching and commenting! You should be fine as long as you heat the area around it evenly. The heat isn’t so bad but uneven heating/cooling is what warps panels. I’ve had car bodies baked and dipped in acid to strip the old body lead, fillers, and paint from them and they turn the oven up to 800 degrees F. 🙂
Wondering if my 90 chevy is same material 🤔
Maybe 🤔
I'm repairing rust holes in a child's wagon. The wagon was sandblasted and epoxy primered. Do I have to sand or grind the epoxy off to bare metal to solder the holes?
Yes, you will have to take it back to bare metal and tin it before soldering. Being that the wagon is just a single panel without a sub panel behind it the repair work will be visible from the inside.
@@gillrodshop thank you for the quick reply. Much appreciated and great video!
Beautiful work!! I know what I'm going to do with some small areas now!!
RM Tbc Thank you.
Tallow is rendered animal fat that has a higher flash point and doesn’t effect the ability of the lead to stick. Crisco is vegetable oil and will burn. The soldering paste is an acid based flux with fine lead in it. It gives a cleaning effect while leaving lead on the surface. I was shown how by a retired Chrysler body tech who did it on repairs for decades. Plastic body filler as we know it was introduce in the 50’s and was not widely accepted in the industry at first until guys who never wore respirators with a two step system that had a dust filter on top of an activate carbon filter that 3M has made so popular and cheap. Just buy filter packs, twist-on and keep going. When you smell paint thru your mask, it is time to shave or replace your filters.
Sanding lead is never done as this dust will attract the nervous system, just like lead-based house paint. The roof on cars and trucks were attached using this method at the seam after spot welding and by no means is it a “Structural” component to the vehicle. It is just a low temp metal filler that is shaped by temp control and wood paddles dipped in tallow to make them slide. Masters of this can do an entire sail-panel joint in 10 minutes and paint ready as well.
I would make sure any drain holes in the rocker are not plugged. They are on the bottom back side of rockers and next to door skins. The door outer belt molding with the fuzzy or felt will let moisture inside the door skin, along with humidity that condenses on cool nights after a muggy day. It forms droplets that run down to the door seam. Any vehicle that is rust free in the first 10+ years can and does need cavity wax (Yellow Stuff) sprayed inside on these internal seems. Use a tooth pick to make sure they are open after a day or so. It will help keep rust away for decades.
Certified Automotive ASE master tech since 1978, retired.
What city and town are you living in now? I’ve been looking for a knowledgeable person such as yourself to learn the ways the cars were manufactured!
@@gillrodshop I am in Omaha but learned how cars work on my own until I helped a guy build a shop behind his house. I apprenticed with him. After 28 years in a Chrysler dealer, he told me he learned more in 6 years in a speed shop.
I will never forget Carl. He has passed, but a skinny, patient man and straight shooter with me and customers!
Found this video searching for rust hole repair and liked it so much I had to subscribe. Thank You
Thanks for your subscription 😃
No need for backing plate? The lead won’t flow into the other side? I’m planning to use this on bottom of my car door it has small rust holes. Thank you
No need for a backing plate if the hole is small. This video that I’ve linked below shows a blind hole done on a T-top pillar and what the lead looks like from the backside once it’s done. You have to use the proper heat and not over heat it though. Thanks for watching and commenting!
ruclips.net/video/ur-etZqrnXk/видео.html
@Gill Rod Shop perfect thank you so much, Eastwood has the smallest kit on back order until January but at least now I have a better alternative thank you!
That repair looked great when you were done, I was thinking you could just primer and paint it now, but perhaps a little glaze never hurt for the hidden low spots
I thought I had a personal phone call at 4 minutes in 😂 headphones in 🎧 spun me out !
Cal Knight that was me calling to tell you thanks for watching 😆😆😆
@@gillrodshop 🤣
Awesome! Have exactly the same holes that I need filling. Most shops want to weld in a patch for a few hundred bucks. Glad I found this video. Thanks in advance.
JOHN PAUL JONES Thank you!
Fica excelente com estanho , aqui no Brasil tá muito caro o estanho 20 dólar o kilo .
Eu inox pra alizar eu acho melhor .
Leonel Novack Thank you. Stainless steel is great, too!
Excellent job! Would love to try this method. Not sure I can get lot on Canada but will sure look into it! Old school was always the best fix! Thanks for sharing!!
Vicki k Gibson Thanks, I usually would not do a hole that large but I thought I'd give it a shot and it's held so far and I'm sure it'll work the same for you. Good luck on your project and stay tuned to my channel to see a weld in panel repair in the near future. Thanks much.
@Gillrodshop does this work on aluminium thanks
I haven’t had any luck on aluminum.
@@gillrodshop much appreciated and thanks for the reply
ok to use this method for chrome bumper?
It should be but you may have to de-chrome it, repair, and chrome it again. I haven’t tested on a bumper yet but I do have a piece of dash trim at the chrome shop now and I’ll publish a video as soon as I get the piece back. These pieces are stainless and I filled a couple of dings with lead body solder.
Does this method work on newer cars?
Yes, as long as it is steel.
Glaze only goes on top of primer, not direct to metal. Body filler goes direct to metal for those that dont know. Thanks for the leading tutorial. Sweet video man.
I usually use a 3M number 801 two part professional glaze that bonds to: primer, metal, fiberglass, and aluminum. Thanks for the suggestion. Sorry about not including the glaze type in the video.
Is that lead or lead free solder
Tin/lead body solder.
I the lead toxic to breathe?
Good question, Rob! I try to always protect myself with PPE (personal protective equipment) as much as possible because this stuff may cause some illness that we don’t know about yet but the older guys (G. Barris and B. Hines) that used the real lead lived to be 90 plus. Happy Lead Slinging! 🙂
@@gillrodshop Good thing that you wear PPE cant be too careful.
Cheers and a really good job!
@@gillrodshop I need to repair a moped that has two cracks one inch long each due to rust and i am searching for the best way to do it.
Thank you
Will this work well for sealing Small Gas tank Holes? Bigger then a pinhole but not terrible
It should, as long as the gas tank is free of any combustibles and flammable vapors.
@@gillrodshop Okay cool I’ll definitely try this out! What was it that you did to inevitably stop the rusting problem? Thanks
@@collin4768 www.eastwood.com/search/?q=body%20solder
Brill thanks
@@jamesfitzmaurice2985 welcome
Got a bunch of rivet holes where the trim around short vinyl top was secured. Getting rid of vinyl so thinking about this to fill rivet holes. Great video. Thanks
Thanks for viewing!
thank you good video.
Thank you!
I have a motorcycle gas tank that has some big holes where the mounting cup was tacked on and I think this will be my solution
Nice work. Always wanted to try lead-loading. 👍
Thanks 😊
I only mig weld when joining two sheets together. This method will be utilized next job. Ill tack with mig and seem up with lead. realy cool vid fella! subbed.
Thank you.
Very well explained. I have the kit from eastwood, now I can give it a try. Thanks for the video.
Ken Sendelofski thanks for watching.
Very professional!!! Looks great man. Thanks for the tip
Chris Cadle thanks for watching and commenting.
Solid job.. i mig my holes and like you suggested.. rust encapsulate the backside.. ive really grown fond of the body solder technique.. kind of a dying art.. i think u might have coaxed me into buying a kit!
Justin Shields thanks for watching and for the kind comments.
Good video bro!!
Thank you!
Great video! Helped me out a lot. I'm ot a body guy and needed a fix for a few tiny rust holes. Thanks!!!!!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The finish looks fantastic, Gill.! I have a 1988 motorcycle fuel tank with the exact same small rust holes, do you think your repair method would suffice?
Gavin Lambert it should work. Let me know the results! Thanks
Were can we get this kit .. looks great thanks for the demonstration that really helps
Eastwood Tool co.
@@gillrodshop thank you .the soonest they'll have it in stock is march
@@ramirogonzalez9214 Cool, it’s worth the wait! 👍🏾
@@gillrodshop I'm working on a 61 ford f100 unibody I'll post some photos with progress thanks again for the video I'm subscribing to your channel
@@ramirogonzalez9214 thank you. I’ll subscribe to yours to keep up with your F100 project.
That’s how it’s done in mexico
Thanks for watching $$$
@@gillrodshop glad I could help 👌
Will this work in a situation where you need the top and underside of the hole to look good? I want to fill luggage rack holes on a TR6 decklid and the metal is visible on both sides. Thanks!
It should! You would have to file and sand the back side to make the solder even with the surface. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@gillrodshop Thanks!!
Nice way of doing it, but please tell how does the two different matals work when expanded/shrinked from heat/cold over time?
My first tought was why not just weld it?
Thanks
Frili Me I've welded a lot of patch panels but this is about not welding. Lead has been installed in millions of factory cars but not many people still use it anymore. As long as the temperature doesn't reach the melting point of the lead it should be okay. Thanks for the observation.
That's outtasite!
That is a good repair indeed
Thank you!
thanks for making this video - i need to do this on my vanagon window. never done it before, but this video is a great 'how to' that gives me some confidence to give it a go!!
inorganic inorganic thank you for watching and let me know how it turns out!
Thanks a lot Gill. My 70s Challenger has holes someone drilled in and this repair is perfect. I have been grinding out ALL BONDO and going to bare metal in all the flawed and damaged areas.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
That is a very good repair. This is the first time I saw this type of work. Very impressive. Thank you for your video.
Jim thanks!
Only thing is, paint will pop off on all those spots! And not to mention the toxins your setting off and breathing
tyler hoskins I wore all PPE but if those toxins got through my PPE I should at least live to be 90 like George Barris bc he used a ton of body lead. Thanks
First off...never paint over bare metal! You need a good direct to metal primer before top coating.
Epoxy primer sticks to everything, and has good rust prevention characteristics.
Im a painter myself, never done lead. Im just curious how long that would last or if it would cause ANY issues down the road. I would try to weld when I could but I certainly see the time savings here and how easy it is.
My 1966 new yorker still has the factory lead on it.
Awesome video. Love learning from a master craftsman. Keep putting out these kinds of videos, and I bet your channel will blow up.
Thanks
Thank you, I was gonna use body filler and blonde to repair that rusted quarter panel on my 63 Pontiac. But ! I think lead is the way to go
Jeff Edgeman thanks for watching
I was hoping you would show the underside.
I wasn’t able to show the underside of that trunk lid but do show the back view of the linked video below. ruclips.net/video/ur-etZqrnXk/видео.html
Nice job bro any idea how long did it last? Did it blister back out? Looking for another alternative instead of welding on a thin roof, This is a great video. Thanks.
It’s still holding well! Just be sure to neutralize or properly prep the metal before top coating! If your vehicle is a classic it has lead filler in the pillars already, more than likely. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏾
How can you sand lead without getting it all over you? Seems stupid
Wear PPE!
@@gillrodshop i don't know if you grow facial hair but just one day of stubble multiplies the respirator leakage by multiples of a thousand. I have a full beard and don't have the money for a forced air system. I reckon filing the lead is best, but I'm not any expert
@@gillrodshop i wear coveralls regularly and love them, but my face and lungs get neglect sometimes
@@mikem5475 you may do it both ways but using a power tool is the quickest way. I try to protect myself to the best of my ability! The guys of old used to not wear any PPE and those dudes are still alive with full heads of hair 😂
@@gillrodshop yeah, crazy how the human body works
Awesome job!! Thanks for teaching the steps!!
Thanks for watching and commenting
Perfect!! Just what I was looking for. Thanks
Andy Ramz thank you! 🙂
My Harley-Davidson gas tank has several small dents in it, could they be filled using this solder and would it survive the heat of powder coating after the tank is repaired?
David MacGregor that is an excellent question. I'm not so sure that it would stand up to temps (+\-400degF) that high. I guess it would also depend on how long it's at that temp. I've had car bodies dipped in acid tanks but they bake them about 8 hours at about 800 degrees before they dip them and all the solder melts off the body at that temp and time period. I can try it if you want me to?
Eastwood has a led free body filler they sell. It’s applied the same way. It’s melting point is a lot higher, maybe 600 degrees. I just had some metal powder coated that I used the body filler on and the heat from the powder coating was not a problem.
Excellent video thank you
Could this technique plug a 1.5” hole?
I’ve filled some pretty large ones but never one that size. It may work though! Thanks 😊
Useful when it's a double skin and you can't back up a weld with some brass plate.
How big of a hole will this fill? When you’re done, do you prime and paint as usual?
Gantry Crane, I could probably fill a hole the size of a dime. Yes, you’d want to neutralize, prime, and then paint. The auto industry used this stuff years ago to fill gaps where the B pillars are welded to the roof and where the quarter panels are welded/brazed to the trunk pan. Thanks for watching!
Gill Rod Shop Cool so this would be a good technique to fill the bolt holes after you remove fender flares right? That’s what I’m thinking of here. If you get a chance to post a link to the lead that you use, that would be great.
Gantry Crane www.eastwood.com/body-soldering-sticks-10-pack.html
@@gillrodshop I can attest this to be true. My 65 Mustang has this body solder in the B pillar seam. Far superior to plastic.
Now that's what I call a top repair 👍👍👍👍
spud train spotting thanks 😊
This is epic... would it work on a roof with 1 hole near the windshield.?... about the same size hole as you worked on
Sure! It should work anywhere you have that is clean, can be tinned, and the correct shape to hold the lead solder.
@@gillrodshop I'm totally trying this on a test piece first... so the steps are, clean metal really well (40 grit etc), apply tinning agent, flux (zinc chloriode) , hit with lead, then wash with water/baking soda to neutralize the acids in flux?
@@mikep509 Yes, sounds like you have it! You may want to get the metal as bright as possible by using a low speed wire brush chucked to a drill motor then scuff the area around it where you want the lead to feather with the metal, scuff/sand with a course grit (80-120) for a smoother transition around the edge. Then you may go to a 220 grit and it should look almost seamless. I’ve also published a video of me doing a Z28 T-Top area that may help. Thanks!
@@gillrodshop thanks so much for this window into alternative car repairs. It's a great learning opportunity 🍻🍻
@@mikep509 Welcome!
Thanks for the video,I will attempt on my project ,71 VW bug.
I’m sure it’ll work out great! Thanks for watching and commenting.
What is the name of the material you used?
@@noureddinemedjahed9024 Body Solder Stick 1/4 lb ITEM # 31127 BRAND: EASTWOOD
you make it look easy thanks.will have to try it on my roof panel.
Fat T it's definitely easier than welding that thin metal but just remember not to apply too much heat when applying the body solder and you'll do just fine. Thanks
Serious question. What are the pros and cons of doing this over just using a mig welder to fill in the holes then grind the metal flush?
This method is quicker and can be done at a lower temperature. From my experience the mig would make this hole 3 times the size before it would start filling in. Also, no need to worry that much about warping due to the low temperature. Thanks for watching and commenting!
great work!
Thanks Eddie!
Nice work on the rust holes
Thanks
Fantastic. Confident and well paced instructions.
Thanks!
Beautiful sir.
Thanks
Great video. Can a repair done with the lead stick be chromed? I am looking for a way to patch a few holes in an 80's motorcycle muffler as they are no longer available for the restoration. Thank you!
VMX yes it can be chromed by a professional plating company.
Gill Rod Shop Gill I read that most shops can’t chrome over lead/tin, is that just BS?
VMX anything that is conducive can be chromed. Plastic and other poor conductors can be chromed also, but the process is different! I spoke with a chrome plater today and he said he can chrome over tin/lead filler. Send a picture of the area on the muffler that you're repairing and maybe I can offer some advice. Thanks
Good video Sir, watching from across the pond in Blighty.
Thanks 😊
You had me at “window legs”, my man. I’ve been stressin about those
Great video! Thanks very much 👍
markabaxter Thank you for taking time to watch it.
This was helpful. Thank you!
Daniel Atkinson thank you for taking time to watch.
Not that I know what am I talking about but why not using aluminum insted of lead? Im just asking because of health reasons. Nice work btw. Thanks for sharing.
Tomo Polic that's steel. Lead was used on these cars at the factory along the sail panel and a few other places and it holds up well. Thanks
Man, thank you!!! I have a few small holes in my trunk pan and I nearly had the whole thing replaced! Made my day and saved me a few hundred dollars.
Andres Vargas thanks for watching and commenting. 🙂
Is this the same way to fix a rusty line of holes along a fender edge without having to cut and install a new fender piece?
Thank you for the tip. I’m gonna give that a try.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Really Nice! I'm just not good w\ torch ~ lol unless I have that 'Joe Cool' attitude. Thanks! *Keep up the Your Joe Coolness! Cheers!*
Karen O 🤣 thanks!
Hey Gill, what kind of heat source were you using?
Michael LeBlanc MAPP GAS from the home improvement store, yellow cylinder. Thanks
Michael LeBlanc the blue cylinder works just as well, too!
@@gillrodshop Sorry Gill, you did show that in your video, I just missed it...For some reason I thought you were using a B Tank or something hotter than Mapp or Propane.
Michael LeBlanc no problem. Thanks for watching.