Needs/use... mine are as a touring musician. This means not local use but rather long trips. Probably a quarter of a million miles pulling trailers. What I've learned is to be mindful of quality control when purchasing a trailer, especially in areas which are not visible. Behind the walls is a good starting place. Some manufacturers do not paint framing which is not visible. Rather the mill finish will be the only protection from rust. There's also a concern that tube framing can rust from the inside. There are treatments but they are not applied at the factory, in my experience. Add the contact of dissimilar metals which results in oxidation. Primarily that is the aluminum skin contacting the metal framing. Screw-less exteriors mean an adhesive is applied. That breaks the contact point of dissimilar metals. However, the screw design allows for the repair or replacement of exterior aluminum skin. With screws, the skin can be removed temporarily, a product such as Fluid Film can be applied (even better if something like parchment cooking paper is coated with FF and placed between metal and aluminum). On to the interior wall sheeting which is usually OSB or plywood. The former does not perform as well as the latter (note it isn't uncommon that the interior sheeting is part of the structural design for strength (it's probably wise to only remove one piece at a time in order to avoid racking). OSB seems to swell when in contact with water, beyond that, fasteners do not hold well. It would be prudent to remove a piece of sheeting in order to inspect for construction quality. Items such as: wielding (tacks vs full wields), cross bracing/gussets and wire routing (many simply blast rough holes then pull wires resulting in wire insulation moving against rough holes and eventual electrical shorts. Also check the framing under the floor sheeting. Was the metal frame primed and painted? Was the flooring painted completely (that is was paint applied to the wood prior to installation or simply spray painted after installation meaning there's no protection. Keep in mind a trailer is akin to a boat or aircraft given it bounces around at highway speeds. As to height, my time in a trailer can be extensive. Therefore, standing upright is handy. For others that may be unimportant. Then there's trailer width. 7' means that side mirrors on SUVs, trucks and vans serve properly. Wider than 7' offers more space but side view mirrors have to be extended which lessens the distance between the vehicle and other traffic such as big rigs. However, both wider and taller create wind resistance and drag. A box on wheels isn't aerodynamic and is unfavorable to efficient fuel economy. Don't forget to look at the quality of tires. It's often poor and a common failure. PS Fluid Film is pretty common for Marine use.
With a GVW of 10,200 you cannot put 10k pounds of cargo inside no you have to minus the weight of the trailer from the GVW to then compute the load capacity !!!!
I have the exact same trailer 7x14 and just got the 60" prostance a few weeks ago and am picking up a scag windstorm next week and there is no way to fit a walker mower,prostance and windstorm not sure if a 16 footer will do but don't want an 18 ft trailer idk
Needs/use... mine are as a touring musician. This means not local use but rather long trips. Probably a quarter of a million miles pulling trailers. What I've learned is to be mindful of quality control when purchasing a trailer, especially in areas which are not visible. Behind the walls is a good starting place. Some manufacturers do not paint framing which is not visible. Rather the mill finish will be the only protection from rust. There's also a concern that tube framing can rust from the inside. There are treatments but they are not applied at the factory, in my experience. Add the contact of dissimilar metals which results in oxidation. Primarily that is the aluminum skin contacting the metal framing. Screw-less exteriors mean an adhesive is applied. That breaks the contact point of dissimilar metals. However, the screw design allows for the repair or replacement of exterior aluminum skin. With screws, the skin can be removed temporarily, a product such as Fluid Film can be applied (even better if something like parchment cooking paper is coated with FF and placed between metal and aluminum). On to the interior wall sheeting which is usually OSB or plywood. The former does not perform as well as the latter (note it isn't uncommon that the interior sheeting is part of the structural design for strength (it's probably wise to only remove one piece at a time in order to avoid racking). OSB seems to swell when in contact with water, beyond that, fasteners do not hold well. It would be prudent to remove a piece of sheeting in order to inspect for construction quality. Items such as: wielding (tacks vs full wields), cross bracing/gussets and wire routing (many simply blast rough holes then pull wires resulting in wire insulation moving against rough holes and eventual electrical shorts. Also check the framing under the floor sheeting. Was the metal frame primed and painted? Was the flooring painted completely (that is was paint applied to the wood prior to installation or simply spray painted after installation meaning there's no protection. Keep in mind a trailer is akin to a boat or aircraft given it bounces around at highway speeds. As to height, my time in a trailer can be extensive. Therefore, standing upright is handy. For others that may be unimportant. Then there's trailer width. 7' means that side mirrors on SUVs, trucks and vans serve properly. Wider than 7' offers more space but side view mirrors have to be extended which lessens the distance between the vehicle and other traffic such as big rigs. However, both wider and taller create wind resistance and drag. A box on wheels isn't aerodynamic and is unfavorable to efficient fuel economy. Don't forget to look at the quality of tires. It's often poor and a common failure. PS Fluid Film is pretty common for Marine use.
Thank you! I’m in the market for a trailer and I want to get one quickly but I’m now realizing that I have to do more research
Just remember that you have to subtract the weight of the trailer from the gvwr. You are allowed to account for the tongue weight transfered to truck.
Yes absolutely, I kinda messed that up when I said it. Thank you
Check out the Tri-clone HEAVY DUTY trimmer heads for your next lawn care jobs
Our 8.5x20 will be here soon as well
Nice trailer! Looks like a huge upgrade.
It certainly was, thank you!
Love the door and tiny mud room area
Screw less. It's called full vhb. Amazing video man keep up the good work
I never knew that. Thank you
Nice trailer
Moving on up! nice trailer! I agree, the screwless version definitely looks cleaner and more professional.
Thank you!
With a GVW of 10,200 you cannot put 10k pounds of cargo inside no you have to minus the weight of the trailer from the GVW to then compute the load capacity !!!!
Correct
I have the exact same trailer 7x14 and just got the 60" prostance a few weeks ago and am picking up a scag windstorm next week and there is no way to fit a walker mower,prostance and windstorm not sure if a 16 footer will do but don't want an 18 ft trailer idk
What’s the price for the new one thanks for your video
Nice 👍
What kind of racks are you using to hold your blowers?
Can you fit 3 mowers on that?
I fit 2 standers and a zero turn no problem. If you need three mowers all day long you might a want to go 20ft
Hoe much was it?
Nice trailer now if u just junk the pos ford for any other truck made 👍
nah this trailer is perfect for hauling all the broke down chevys and dodges lol. Thanks for watching
Its hard for me to find a reputable trailer vendor in California.
You might have to look out of state
For this particular 8.5' wide trailer, you sacrifice a little interior space because of the wheel-well bump.
All 8.5 width trailers will have the wheel well jump. No getting around that
Told wider not good for beginner drivers trailer