I have a 30 footer and my plywood on the ramp got torn by my side by side bumper because it came loose but that was a blessing because I took everything apart to install new paneling and I’ve noticed that the tubing wasn’t enough and missing welding so I reinforced the ramp with more tubing and welded everything. I hope this message gets to a lot of people that owns these trailers.
I have a similar South Georgia made trailer. When I had it made, I had them double up all the supports. I have them 12" on center, and it's super sturdy, particularly since I have it built an extra 18" tall, which means a taller door. With that being said, it depends on the length of the wheelbase as well. When I run my buggy up the trailer, the front tires reach the trailer, before the back tires start going up the ramp. In this scenario, the ramp just has to support the weight of whatever the one axle is at a time. A tractor is obviously somewhat unique in that they tend to have a relatively short wheelbase for the weight of them. Most people likely aren't carrying a tractor in an enclosed trailer.
Another informative video, thanks. I had no idea of the door weight rating. Doesn't make much sense doing it like that, but I am sure it saves the manufacturers money and that is the reason for it.
Hi I have a 8.5 x 24 enclosed car hauler with the same problem. (the door was bending) I was using it to transport my L3301 Kibota, so I remove the outside sheeting and inside 3/4 inch plywood. I decided to reinforce the ramp door. I first need to straighten out the bent tubing using a chain and jack. once they were nice and straight again, I ordered and installed 1/8 thick by 1 x 1 1/12 inch tubing and welded everything. I now have 12 vertical top to bottom and 7 horizontal side to side. (like a hunny comb) or square Patton. I weighed the door using a scale at the lift point. it weighs 185 LBS so I need to order a dual spring assist, that can handle the new door load. painted all the tubing with rustoleum. Note the new 1 x 1 1/12 inch tubing was thicker than what the factory used. I will be posting the video on my channel of the build next week. ( I think I'm going to use your mudflap idea as well. ) enjoyed your videos. oh, I also have vinyl tile on the inside so the water from the tires doesn't rot the plywood. Hope this helps.
Usually when driving a car up the ramp, the ramp isnt taking the full load all at once (ah hah) thats at least the only sensible reasoning as to why the ramp isnt rated like the deck. This is a "car hauler" after all, not so much an equipment trailer. Im impressed that the gladiator pulls that, thats dope! Edit: is the 24 footer necessary for 2 utv's? I went with an 8.5x20 and plan on possibly hauling two machines, they should fit if a little close.
Another good video, and beautiful property! How many acres is your property ? And are you still happy with the size of your new tractor? Keep up the videos
what would you recommend as a fix , maybe putting wedge under ramp door ( besides maybe replacing door. maybe a ramp that hovers over door . I just bought one and noticed the same thing ! will either return or improvise
I use mine to carry music equipment. My floor is bending in the middle. Its not too terribly heavy but the interstate bounce is slowly bending my crossbars in the floor. Have redistribute my weight to the walls.
Well that ramp door is no good then, no common sense from the builder. I went to buy more of that quaker state from walmart for our ecodiesel's and they dont carry it anymore, and on amazon it's about 65 dollars for 5 quaarts now, i wish i would have bought about 8 of those gallon jugs for 18 apiece, i guess chrysler got wise about that, keep up the video's and any ideas where we can get the oil for a discount ? Thanks
When you are loading a car only two wheels are on the ramp at any given time. There is never 4500#’s on the center of the ramp at its weakest point at any given time. If you are worried about a 4500# rated door, don’t crawl under the trailer and look at your sheathing. 🤣 Drill a 2” hole through the deck and see what you are really working with.
The first issue is trailers of any kind built in the south especially in southern Georgia are built poorly with crap materials. It’s why they are so cheap because the cheap materials used and cheap labor usually by some people who are just bodies who don’t have any training in what they were hired to do. The quality of their he work is really bad when finished. There’s one company down in South Georgia claiming they are part of the BBB on their website and when I looked them up couldn’t find them listed so I called the BBB and they told me they have 400+ complaints against the company for saying they are and they are not nor have they ever been in the BBB. It’s the old saying you get what you pay for.
trailers like that are more built for carting lot's of smaller lighter items then one large heavy item , i be surprised if under the floor is really made for supporting the weight of a vehicle on only four points of contact. if you look at a machine or industrial trailer it has chassis rails to support the load under where it will sit, the same for the ramps. they even have a heavy support beam across the back to mount the ramps to and some have support legs to assist with the stress of a heavy load until it's on Top of the axle . I'm not ditching your trailer I think its not bad but it never going to be a great trailer for carting heavy items like tractors and such.
I love how American's are so far behind the rest of us intelligence wise haha. They figure this stuff out so much later than your average person would and I find that amusing
I have a 30 footer and my plywood on the ramp got torn by my side by side bumper because it came loose but that was a blessing because I took everything apart to install new paneling and I’ve noticed that the tubing wasn’t enough and missing welding so I reinforced the ramp with more tubing and welded everything. I hope this message gets to a lot of people that owns these trailers.
Adding jacks /jack stands under the corners of the rear may be useful when loading, if there are load-bearing points there.
I have a similar South Georgia made trailer. When I had it made, I had them double up all the supports. I have them 12" on center, and it's super sturdy, particularly since I have it built an extra 18" tall, which means a taller door. With that being said, it depends on the length of the wheelbase as well. When I run my buggy up the trailer, the front tires reach the trailer, before the back tires start going up the ramp. In this scenario, the ramp just has to support the weight of whatever the one axle is at a time. A tractor is obviously somewhat unique in that they tend to have a relatively short wheelbase for the weight of them. Most people likely aren't carrying a tractor in an enclosed trailer.
Another informative video, thanks. I had no idea of the door weight rating. Doesn't make much sense doing it like that, but I am sure it saves the manufacturers money and that is the reason for it.
Thanks! Because you just helped me before ,I started hauling my station wagon 💪🏽
EXTREMELY HELPFUL INFORMATION!THANK YOU!
Hi I have a 8.5 x 24 enclosed car hauler with the same problem. (the door was bending) I was using it to transport my L3301 Kibota, so I remove the outside sheeting and inside 3/4 inch plywood. I decided to reinforce the ramp door. I first need to straighten out the bent tubing using a chain and jack. once they were nice and straight again, I ordered and installed 1/8 thick by 1 x 1 1/12 inch tubing and welded everything. I now have 12 vertical top to bottom and 7 horizontal side to side. (like a hunny comb) or square Patton. I weighed the door using a scale at the lift point. it weighs 185 LBS so I need to order a dual spring assist, that can handle the new door load. painted all the tubing with rustoleum. Note the new 1 x 1 1/12 inch tubing was thicker than what the factory used. I will be posting the video on my channel of the build next week. ( I think I'm going to use your mudflap idea as well. ) enjoyed your videos. oh, I also have vinyl tile on the inside so the water from the tires doesn't rot the plywood. Hope this helps.
@thefrugalhugelgardener - did you ever post this video? If so, what is the link?
@@OldExodus I'm preparing to paint the tubing in the next day or two. after that, I will edit the video and upload it. so give me about a week. Thanks
Good heads-up info. Thank you! Peace and Blessings
Excellent Advise. Thanks!
Usually when driving a car up the ramp, the ramp isnt taking the full load all at once (ah hah) thats at least the only sensible reasoning as to why the ramp isnt rated like the deck. This is a "car hauler" after all, not so much an equipment trailer.
Im impressed that the gladiator pulls that, thats dope!
Edit: is the 24 footer necessary for 2 utv's? I went with an 8.5x20 and plan on possibly hauling two machines, they should fit if a little close.
Thank you for saying that
Another good video, and beautiful property! How many acres is your property ? And are you still happy with the size of your new tractor? Keep up the videos
what would you recommend as a fix , maybe putting wedge under ramp door ( besides maybe replacing door. maybe a ramp that hovers over door . I just bought one and noticed the same thing ! will either return or improvise
I use mine to carry music equipment. My floor is bending in the middle. Its not too terribly heavy but the interstate bounce is slowly bending my crossbars in the floor. Have redistribute my weight to the walls.
This exactly beside it literally being a car hauler. Compact tractors still weigh north of 4000#’s on much shorter wheel bases.
Did you say you pulled that trailer with your Jeep. Wow that's awesome
This amount of property is the goal!
Look at the top of the trailer toward the back! You can see where the back has been flexed downward when loading.
Thank you ❤️
Great video good sir. So the doors are approximately half the payload, if I understand correctly right?
I'm getting custom made braces to lay down on the ground before I open the door to lug around with the trailer.
Well that ramp door is no good then, no common sense from the builder. I went to buy more of that quaker state from walmart for our ecodiesel's and they dont carry it anymore, and on amazon it's about 65 dollars for 5 quaarts now, i wish i would have bought about 8 of those gallon jugs for 18 apiece, i guess chrysler got wise about that, keep up the video's and any ideas where we can get the oil for a discount ? Thanks
Good video
Some 6ft metal ramps laying on the door would help you out alot
Cargo is different from auto in trailers, good to know. Maybe lucky it didn't bust through the floor of the trailer.
Did you pull the trailer with the tractor in it with the jeep ?
When you are loading a car only two wheels are on the ramp at any given time. There is never 4500#’s on the center of the ramp at its weakest point at any given time. If you are worried about a 4500# rated door, don’t crawl under the trailer and look at your sheathing. 🤣 Drill a 2” hole through the deck and see what you are really working with.
Loading a car, only one axle at a time is on the ramp.
The first issue is trailers of any kind built in the south especially in southern Georgia are built poorly with crap materials. It’s why they are so cheap because the cheap materials used and cheap labor usually by some people who are just bodies who don’t have any training in what they were hired to do. The quality of their he work is really bad when finished. There’s one company down in South Georgia claiming they are part of the BBB on their website and when I looked them up couldn’t find them listed so I called the BBB and they told me they have 400+ complaints against the company for saying they are and they are not nor have they ever been in the BBB. It’s the old saying you get what you pay for.
trailers like that are more built for carting lot's of smaller lighter items then one large heavy item , i be surprised if under the floor is really made for supporting the weight of a vehicle on only four points of contact. if you look at a machine or industrial trailer it has chassis rails to support the load under where it will sit, the same for the ramps. they even have a heavy support beam across the back to mount the ramps to and some have support legs to assist with the stress of a heavy load until it's on Top of the axle . I'm not ditching your trailer I think its not bad but it never going to be a great trailer for carting heavy items like tractors and such.
IF THEY PUT A HEAVIER DOOR ON IT , YOU COULD NOT PICK THE DOOR. UP. GOT ME ?
I love how American's are so far behind the rest of us intelligence wise haha. They figure this stuff out so much later than your average person would and I find that amusing
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