Muddysump, All your videos are really appreciated and it’s a pleasure to view them, I’m learning so much from them and I’m about to change my tyres so the front and rear wheel removal videos have been a godsend. Thanks again
Good video that I've used for reference several times. Thanks! A quick note: I noticed today that the service manual calls for silicon grease on the sliding pins. It states that mineral grease should not be used.
Always silicon greace in anything that comes in contact with rubber otherwise they can make the rubber hard crack and failure. Auto parts store have small tubes for sliding pin grease for break jobs and copper grease for the end of the pads, no need to put any grease in the back of the pads
Hi, thanks for these video's! They convinced me to start doing my own maintanence on my tiger 800 XC! Do i see correctly that you use two different types of grease? What kind of grease should I use for the slider pin and the other pins? Thank you!
Hi. It’s copper grease on the brake pad pin. I used multipurpose grease but you should really use some silicone or rubber grease on the slide pins because of the rubber boot
Hi great videos, very helpful for a novice to learn from. One quick question where did the piston tool you use to turn the pistons and clean around come from, have tried to find one but no joy yet. Cheers
MuddySump thanks for your detail informative videos. I have noticed on my 2016 800xc were the front return brake line from the abs modulator to the caliper looks like the connection to the modulator via banjo bolt and washer does not appear as snug and tight as the line from the cylinder to the modulator, seems to be loose around the washer, although no sign of leaking at all 100% dry. Am I just over thinking? Thanks Scott D
Thank you for a great video, i have just found your channel, what a find. i have a tiger 800 with binding breaks. with the front wheel having 2 calipers is the process exactly the same for the other side? thank you, well explained in a easy format, boss!
Hi, for the first time I had my front jacked up because I wanted to change the front brake disks, they were at 4mm limit. I didn't try to spin the wheel before taking it off, but after installing the new disks, I gave the front wheel a spin and I witnessed its not moving freely, it looks like brakes are not releasing pistons and it only spins for one or two turns before stopping. Is this normal? I started to suspect a stuck piston or two, came back to this video only to see that when you pump the brakes - the pistons are also in no rush to return back. I always assumed that the vacuum in the system should suck the pistons back in. Can you shed some light on this?
Good vid. Thanks for posting. Iv'e been looking for a tool like the one you use for turning the pistons. Can't find it here in Sweden (perhaps I haven't been looking for it enough). Don't even know what it's called, haha :) Did you get yours at a local shop or do you know where I can get it online?
I’m missing one of those pin bushings, the brake caliper now has a little play. It don’t seem bad but I would like to find one any clue how I can track one down, maybe parts number
Hi. No video for it. Just take out the screws for the abs disc then you can take off the brake discs afterwards. Tighten brake disc screws evenly to 22Nm and the abs screws to 5Nm. You should fit new screws too when you do it.
Hi muddysump. I drive the tiger 800 xcx. Do you use standard lithiumgrease for the pen in the swimbrakes? Or silicongrease? Sorry for the bad english. Hope you understand it. I'm a swiss guy. Cheers
:-) I used to use ACF50 and clean it every couple of weeks when I first got it. I used my DRZ or just cycled to work when the salt was really bad, they both got ruined too though :-S
Love your videos. I have a 2012 xc and just did my rear brake with no issues. When I did the front, I can't for the life of me get the pistons back in. If I push on one, the other one pops out and when I push them both together they don't budge? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
MuddySump I did take it off after several attempts to get them back in and it didn't seem to make any difference. I took my left hand side front brake off as per this video and everything went perfect. On the problem side. You can push one almost all the way in but the other piston comes out, it feels impossible to budge them down together. Thanks for your quick reply
MuddySump yeah I will try that tonight. The pads were actually okay. Only decided to check them as I went on a ride and I felt like as I would go to take off or roll to a stop that the brakes were slightly. engaged when I hadn't touched them. Just started happening. Got me buggered.
hello muddysump, can you tell me what type of product you used to clean the brakes up? I use brake-cleaner which is kind like a anti-grease-stuff but it ony comes in spray-cans and i would like to avoid those.
do you need the tool to pull the pistons out our can you just push them out pumping the brake lever and using a piece of wood to stop coming off completely? thanks.
Curious, Looking at a 2015 XRX, 8,800 Miles on her. Front and rear rotors look dirty or burned, is that possible? Looking for items to lower price offer, needs back tire soon ($120-$175 USD) Thanks, Cheers...
Well, the bike has 8,800 miles on it. I'm not sure how many miles one can get on a set of pads... A few people have looked at the bike, don't know why it's not selling, it's in great shape as far as I can see.
All your vids are great. Very professional. I would like to know the total thickness of a front pad, that is, friction material and backing plate. I have purchased some pads from the local shop and they are 10mm thick over all. These won't fit with the pistons pressed all the way back by hand. Any help is gratefully received. Do you have a Patreon account? Cheers.
Hi John. Haven’t got any near me to measure but online it says the ebc pads are 9mm thickness. Are you taking the top off the brake reservoir to push them back? It sometimes won’t be able to move them back if there’s no air gap in there. Be careful though cause it can squirt out with the pressure
The pads are DP Brakes DP501 with a specified thickness of 10.3mm but actual is 10.0mm. I tried with the master cylinder cap off but the piston won't retract any further. 9mm will fit I reckon so I go back to the shop. Thanks for your help.
+Mike it's already been damaged? They do sometimes take a bit of impact with hammer and screwdriver while trying to turn it. If it's already lost the chance of doing that then can try tapping it around with a punch if still no good will have to be drilled out
+MuddySump hey, just finished the job here myself, really easy when you have guides like these so thanks again :) One of my caliper-pistons is stuck tho, is there any easy way to loosen it?
+Biker on Ice try taking the calliper off and the pads out. Try and hold the free piston and pull the brake lever to try and pump out the seized piston. Could leave the pads in too and squeeze them together. Can take the pads out afterwards to push the Pistons back in
Hey mate, in your video you don't mention the u shaped piece of thin metal, I think is called a pad retention spring and I can't figure out how to put it back in as it pooped off when I took the caliper off. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
I don't usually comment on this stuff but this was a truly excellent how-to! I did the job quickly and confidently. Thanks much!
Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks! Was going to take my tiger in until i checked the master fuse. I followed the directions and viola! back in the saddle.
Muddysump, All your videos are really appreciated and it’s a pleasure to view them, I’m learning so much from them and I’m about to change my tyres so the front and rear wheel removal videos have been a godsend. Thanks again
Thanks 👍🏼
Good video that I've used for reference several times. Thanks! A quick note: I noticed today that the service manual calls for silicon grease on the sliding pins. It states that mineral grease should not be used.
I think it can make them perish a bit quicker but I’ve never seen one go bad yet
@@MuddySump yup, I've always used normal grease and so far the rubbers are looking fine, but in future I'll be using silicon grease
@@MuddySump will lithium grease do for the pins?
Always silicon greace in anything that comes in contact with rubber otherwise they can make the rubber hard crack and failure. Auto parts store have small tubes for sliding pin grease for break jobs and copper grease for the end of the pads, no need to put any grease in the back of the pads
Brilliant video, helped me so much, and no silly intro,s or music. Excellent thank you.
Thanks 👍🏻 I did think I should have made them a bit more entertaining but everyone seems to appreciate that I didn’t
You helped me out of a rear brake mess when i was away in France. Cheers mate !!
👍🏼
Good video, changing my pads now on my 14 800xc
👍🏻
I like the pliers to turn the pistons, never seen them before so might have to get myself a pair! Cheers
simple and straightforward. Thanks!
👍🏻
Great channel dude!
Subbed!
Your videos are really helpful.Thank you!
Thanks for watching
Hi, thanks for these video's! They convinced me to start doing my own maintanence on my tiger 800 XC! Do i see correctly that you use two different types of grease? What kind of grease should I use for the slider pin and the other pins? Thank you!
Hi. It’s copper grease on the brake pad pin. I used multipurpose grease but you should really use some silicone or rubber grease on the slide pins because of the rubber boot
Nice video, but I am wondering where you got this nice cabin ftom the doirs and the windshield?
Don’t know what you mean.
Hi great videos, very helpful for a novice to learn from. One quick question where did the piston tool you use to turn the pistons and clean around come from, have tried to find one but no joy yet.
Cheers
Sorry found it on a previous comment, brake piston pliers!
Cheers
👍🏼
MuddySump thanks for your detail informative videos. I have noticed on my 2016 800xc were the front return brake line from the abs modulator to the caliper looks like the connection to the modulator via banjo bolt and washer does not appear as snug and tight as the line from the cylinder to the modulator, seems to be loose around the washer, although no sign of leaking at all 100% dry. Am I just over thinking? Thanks Scott D
+Scott DiLemma hi scott. It would definitely be leaking if it wasn't right. You would lose the pressure in the lever too when you pull it
Pressures good and no leaks so I feel good about it, thank you for your help. I subscribed.
Easy peasy. Cheers for the vid.
+Harmless Prankster no problem. Thanks
Thank you for a great video, i have just found your channel, what a find. i have a tiger 800 with binding breaks. with the front wheel having 2 calipers is the process exactly the same for the other side? thank you, well explained in a easy format, boss!
Yes, it’s the same
@@MuddySump legend!
Hello, did you use regular brake cleaner to clean pistons, or something else?
Yes, just brake cleaner
Hi, for the first time I had my front jacked up because I wanted to change the front brake disks, they were at 4mm limit. I didn't try to spin the wheel before taking it off, but after installing the new disks, I gave the front wheel a spin and I witnessed its not moving freely, it looks like brakes are not releasing pistons and it only spins for one or two turns before stopping. Is this normal? I started to suspect a stuck piston or two, came back to this video only to see that when you pump the brakes - the pistons are also in no rush to return back. I always assumed that the vacuum in the system should suck the pistons back in. Can you shed some light on this?
Yes that’s right. The pads are always just skimming the discs so they bite as soon as the lever is pulled
@@MuddySump thanks
Dayum I hope 2005 ninja brakes are as straightforward! Guess I'll find out soon...
No idea sorry but good luck with the change ;-)
Good vid. Thanks for posting. Iv'e been looking for a tool like the one you use for turning the pistons. Can't find it here in Sweden (perhaps I haven't been looking for it enough). Don't even know what it's called, haha :) Did you get yours at a local shop or do you know where I can get it online?
Thanks. I got it on ebay, search for piston tool
I’m missing one of those pin bushings, the brake caliper now has a little play. It don’t seem bad but I would like to find one any clue how I can track one down, maybe parts number
Have a look on world of triumph. They show the parts diagrams and part numbers for all the models
Do you have a video of replacing one or both of the front disc brakes? How do you work around the ABS?
Hi. No video for it. Just take out the screws for the abs disc then you can take off the brake discs afterwards. Tighten brake disc screws evenly to 22Nm and the abs screws to 5Nm. You should fit new screws too when you do it.
Hi muddysump. I drive the tiger 800 xcx.
Do you use standard lithiumgrease for the pen
in the swimbrakes? Or silicongrease?
Sorry for the bad english. Hope you understand it. I'm a swiss guy. Cheers
Mathias Koch hi. I use copper grease on the brake parts.
Thanks
David
Sure coppergrease by pads, but i mean the pen/bolts in the swimsaddel (schwimmsattel)?
Thanks a lot
Mathias Koch Do you mean the back brake bolts? I used a bit multi purpose grease. Some say it is bad for the rubber, can use silicone grease
Yes that i mean. Ok. Thanks. Great videos! Continue like that! ;-)
Can you please recommend what "copper grease" to use on the pins? The local black shit I use is absolute trash.
It’s an anti seize grease.
Thanks. Have a ride up and i'll service it for you ;-)
hi! which kind of grease do you use at minute 6? i know that it's not good mineral grease because damages the rubber. Is silicon grease better? Thanks
Yes. Need some silicon/rubber grease
I have a question, sorry for my bad english, what is tool's name at minute 3:45? Thanks
+Sugarglider brake piston pliers
:-) I used to use ACF50 and clean it every couple of weeks when I first got it. I used my DRZ or just cycled to work when the salt was really bad, they both got ruined too though :-S
Love your videos. I have a 2012 xc and just did my rear brake with no issues. When I did the front, I can't for the life of me get the pistons back in. If I push on one, the other one pops out and when I push them both together they don't budge? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
+adrian collins have you taken the top off the fluid reservoir? That will be keeping pressure in the system
MuddySump I did take it off after several attempts to get them back in and it didn't seem to make any difference. I took my left hand side front brake off as per this video and everything went perfect. On the problem side. You can push one almost all the way in but the other piston comes out, it feels impossible to budge them down together. Thanks for your quick reply
+adrian collins if you've got the old pads still then put them back in and put a screwdriver between them to push them apart
MuddySump yeah I will try that tonight. The pads were actually okay. Only decided to check them as I went on a ride and I felt like as I would go to take off or roll to a stop that the brakes were slightly. engaged when I hadn't touched them. Just started happening. Got me buggered.
hello muddysump,
can you tell me what type of product you used to clean the brakes up?
I use brake-cleaner which is kind like a anti-grease-stuff but it ony comes in spray-cans and i would like to avoid those.
I use a wire brush to clean the pads. I use brake cleaner in a refillable pump bottle by wurth, it lasts ages
MuddySump :) I got that ... but can you tell me a brand or more details about the brake cleaner? I seem not able to find it in bulk.
what's the trade or name of the liquid for clean that you're using ?
Wurth brake cleaner
Thanks 🙏
Hope it helped 👍🏻
About to do this, i only have brake cleaner in a can, is that safe to spray everywhere like your stuff?
thanks
+Boris theBlade yes it's the same stuff just in aerosol
MuddySump
Alright cheers mate
MuddySump
Also, just out of interest, what do you charge to fit and balance tyres? (if you do them)
+Boris theBlade don't do tyres. Shouldn't cost much taking just the wheels to a shop
MuddySump
£40 for the pair, if i bring loose wheels is the cheapest ive found. Dealership was £54.
Gonna have a go myself first though
cheers.
do you need the tool to pull the pistons out our can you just push them out pumping the brake lever and using a piece of wood to stop coming off completely?
thanks.
Can just pump them out with the brake lever too. One might come out further so just keep hold of it with your hand so the other one can come out too
MuddySump thanks.
Great video
Thanks
Curious, Looking at a 2015 XRX, 8,800 Miles on her. Front and rear rotors look dirty or burned, is that possible? Looking for items to lower price offer, needs back tire soon ($120-$175 USD) Thanks, Cheers...
+MrBackyardMechanic discs are expensive on them. I have noticed some seemed to of blackened before. Are you running the standard pads still?
Well, the bike has 8,800 miles on it. I'm not sure how many miles one can get on a set of pads... A few people have looked at the bike, don't know why it's not selling, it's in great shape as far as I can see.
All your vids are great. Very professional. I would like to know the total thickness of a front pad, that is, friction material and backing plate. I have purchased some pads from the local shop and they are 10mm thick over all. These won't fit with the pistons pressed all the way back by hand. Any help is gratefully received. Do you have a Patreon account? Cheers.
Hi John. Haven’t got any near me to measure but online it says the ebc pads are 9mm thickness. Are you taking the top off the brake reservoir to push them back? It sometimes won’t be able to move them back if there’s no air gap in there. Be careful though cause it can squirt out with the pressure
The pads are DP Brakes DP501 with a specified thickness of 10.3mm but actual is 10.0mm. I tried with the master cylinder cap off but the piston won't retract any further. 9mm will fit I reckon so I go back to the shop. Thanks for your help.
John Rutter no problem
I've had another thought. Could it be that the DP Brakes pads need to be installed without the ant-squeal back plates?
John Rutter could try it
Is this procedure and torque specs the same for a Gen 1 explorer?
Different caliper and pads but same thing.
any ideas got a stuck plug? tried gt 85 and some heat too but nothing. stuck there won't turn. can't even use a socket on it 😕
+Mike hi Mike. Is it the brake pad pin or the little flat screwdriver cap that covers it?
MuddySump the fat cap that covers it. totally useless tread on it to use the screwdriver.
+Mike it's already been damaged? They do sometimes take a bit of impact with hammer and screwdriver while trying to turn it. If it's already lost the chance of doing that then can try tapping it around with a punch if still no good will have to be drilled out
MuddySump thank you. just managed with my drill. your videos are great for what I'm doing. thanks man.
+Mike what's stuck? The brake pad pin?
So its safe to just spray brake cleaner all over the caliper? even on rubber?
Yes. Never had any problems with it
Sweet cheers. Just did my fronts and they are absolutely filthy. Will give them a good spray soon.
is the procedure identical on the abs version? :)
Yes, exactly the same. Only thing with the abs version is to make sure you don't get air in the system when bleeding them
+MuddySump hey, just finished the job here myself, really easy when you have guides like these so thanks again :)
One of my caliper-pistons is stuck tho, is there any easy way to loosen it?
+Biker on Ice try taking the calliper off and the pads out. Try and hold the free piston and pull the brake lever to try and pump out the seized piston. Could leave the pads in too and squeeze them together. Can take the pads out afterwards to push the Pistons back in
Ill try that, thanks :)
Good vid but I would use red rubber grease as I find mineral based grease makes the boots swell after time.
Didn't know that, i'll have a look for it
What is the brand of your tools?
+victor clavery all the ratchets, sockets and spanners are halfords. Other tools are a mixture
Hey mate, in your video you don't mention the u shaped piece of thin metal, I think is called a pad retention spring and I can't figure out how to put it back in as it pooped off when I took the caliper off. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
+adrian collins the part that the front of the pads sit in? It disc goes between the U shape.
MUITO BOM....
How dumb. I should have scrolled up to see your Patreon account ;)
I want to buy your motorcycle... it will live forever....
+Abdurrahim N. You'll have to try and find it. I sold it two years ago :-)
:(
I have seen this vid last year.. can i ask you what bike are you riding nowadays?
I've just got a 2007 bonneville last month. Got my dirt bikes still and a little Honda msx 125 to mess around on