Delboy's Garage, Triumph Tiger, Brake Pad Replacement.
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2016
- A Comprehensive Tutorial on Brake Pad Replacement.
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Very good instructional video . Clear good explanation, Highly reccomended watching for all who wants to change their own pads .
Most theral presentations!
Deals with reality mechanical worst case scenarios...not every thing is shiny and perfect when dealing with bikes. The attention to the little details and highlighting prevention and restoration of use damage is remarkable. A real educator and good old school mechanic!!
It's always a shear pleasure to watch:-)
34 minutes of my time truly well spent. The quality of your 'how to' vids, in my opinion, is second to none. This one has joined a number of your others on my "Watch Later" list - although it should be called a "Watch Again (and Again)" list. Thank you.
Hello Len, thanks for those kind words my friend, we could wish for nothing more than for our videos to be saved and used as a reference, it's an honour indeed ! Thanks again mate, appreciate you watching!
Thanks for these brake videos, due to these I've changed pads and also completely stripped down my calipers to change the pistons & seals and done fluid change. Never had the confidence to do so before finding your channel so cheers Del & Penny
Hi Paul, thank you most kindly.. am so glad the videos have been so useful - this kind of thing is just housekeeping and it's not difficult to learn it, but as it's time consuming, it can cost a fortune in labour !
I don't know if anyone will end up reading this 244th comment, but I read somewher something about decreasing the torque setting by 25% when you have greased the bolts. Torque settings are normally specified for dry bolts, which are causing much more friction.
So when applying the specified torque setting on greased bolts, there may be a risk of overstretching the bolts, or damaging the wire inside aluminium threads.
This as just a side remark. The video is top, well done and well explained ! Carry on like that !
Hi Paulus, we get a notification of every comment, even on a video that's 10yrs old with 500 comments, so good to hear from you! With regard to your comment, not so sure it's as much as 25% because different metals drag different amounts, and also the size of the fastener makes a difference too... a little M5 screw vs. an M12 bolt will be very different in the adjustment... I think one of the greatest things any manufacturer ever did was when Harley Davidson decided in their manuals to post torque ranges, rather than specific settings, cos there is no specific setting... you could have a casing, or unit, that in itself is oily, say bolting a water pump on to the front of an oily car engine, you've no idea if there's any oil in that thread, or not, but you're right on aluminium, it could be more critical, so again, with Harley torque ranges, go with the bottom end of the range if you've lubed the fastener, and the top if you're choosing to fit it dry... the same also goes for Threadlock... naturally it's a wet substance till it cures, so will reduce friction and drag, so therefore you'd pick the lower range of the torque values... if you've not seen this mate, the best example would be little quarter inch engine casing screw and with a torx head is usually 12-14ftlb... which I think makes life a lot more easy aye?! Thanks again for your kind words, much appreciated...
I'm a technician at Triumph in India. This is so helpful. :) Thank you. Keep up the great work. Love from India. 🍻
pro trick: you can watch movies at Kaldrostream. Been using it for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Noe Caden Yup, I have been using flixzone} for months myself :)
@Noe Caden Yea, been using flixzone} for months myself =)
Always enjoy these simple instruction vids, and a revisit of a former subject is just positive reinforcement! Thanks!
Sure thing mate, some videos you can do over and over, and they will always be useful...
Good to hear you Penny. Great update on an old but so important job Del. Nice & easy to understand for the new followers. Those old pads looked good next to the ones that fell out my caliper when I bought it. Cheers buddy.
Yeah, think we've all done that mate, left 'em just that little bit too long !
Great video. I’ve watched all the Tiger brake instructional videos and this is far and away the best. Let’s see rear brakes and rotor change in the future. I have two 800s and a 1200.... need lots of instruction.
Thanks again
Mate, this was super helpful and clear. Did this today on the Stripple. Pistons were filthy and was good to get 'em back to bright and shiny and a bit of Copaslip, as well as just change shagged pads for some EBC sintereds. Keep well and stay safe!
Glad it helped mate, thanks very much for the feedback buddy, have a great weekend!
Cheers Delboy yet again another easy to watch and listen to video that helps.
Stay well both of you.
Thanks buddy, good to hear from you !
Always well explained, and an update on the older video does no harm whatsoever. I still found benefit here, despite having done this job many times myself. Besides, it's still the best telly that's on!
Thanks Peter glad you enjoyed it buddy, there are many people who don't watch the old videos !
All your knowledge transferring nicely over to my Honda scooter rental business here in Thailand now thanks Del. I have a set of pads to do on a single piston caliper tomorrow so will be using this vid as as a brush up. No need to pay mechanics for this simple job. Hope you're all good mate. Cheers from Phuket
Hi there Tor, good to hear from you.. and im glad the videos can help you out... hope business is good... take care. Del.
Nice video Del, interesting and informative as always. I remember watching your previous brake videos and found them very helpful, there's nothing more important on a bike than the brakes.
I'd agree with that my friend, the ability to stop efficiently can really come in handy lol !
Tiers are second
a very concise explanation invaluable for anyone tackling this first time..
And for thise of use who have been doing it for a thousand years we can still learn ..untill a couple of years ago i was cleaning the pins by hand
for the last 30 odd brake jobs on cars and bikes that never cease to turn up on my doorstep ive been useing your drill method..its saved me hours and hours and got better results..so thank you sir ..one of the many tips ive learned from you despite my experience ...
We can never stop learning!! cheers and love to you both xxxc
ps im on the mend back to work friday!!!!!
Ayup brother Springy, for just a funny minute then I thought you said you were going back to work on a Friday - what kind of weirdo goes back to work on a Friday?? Are you sure you are ok to go back?? ..... seriously, so relieved you are on the mend my friend... gonna damn well make sure we meet before the season is out - keep well, love D&Px
+Moonfleet41
yes buddy my week starts on friday and lasts 13 days then a day off then it starts again ....
ps..theres a little pressie on its way to the shop...
Mate, where are you living ??? Your week starts Friday and it lasts 13 days lol - is that a Gregorian calendar, or a Roman one??? ... I mean what happens on the second Friday.. is it called Friday2, and is it only a one day weekend, otherwise the week won't start on a Friday again... I'm confused but that's not hard lol
Look forward to our parcel, will let you know when it arrives - hope it's not medical souvenir lol
+Moonfleet41
no mate its called the european working time directive and being in construction/engineering they live by it...
basically you work 13 days 10 or 12 hours have a day off...start again.
the blue book rules ...
this only applies in outage time wen the station needs fixing...this particular fix has taken nearly a year but of course ive been off sick for a month so i'll be doing the hours to make up for lost time....xcx
Excellent video. Clear and precise. Changed many brakes but still learned a bit. Thanx
Thanks buddy, glad the video could help you !
Just put the same kind of HH pads in my blade after watching your other brake pad video.
Nice vid Del. They are helping me any way ;-)
CHeers Brook... proper grabby aint they..!
Thanks from New Zealand fella. Front brake easy; now to fix the back break that the shop messed up. Grats ... David
Good luck with it David, hope it goes well for you mate..
Nice job, Del! As you said always test your breaks - the turning point for me to become my own mechanic was when my one of my shiny new brake pads flew down road after I got my bike from a mechanic - needless to say it was code brown situation!
Also the time when you are changing your break pads is a nice time to do basic check on your rubber hoses! And, boys and girls do not ever buy cheap brake pads - there will come a day when your break pads will make all of the difference between life and death!
Can't knock that advice mate, and you're dead right, brake pad evacuation in motion... definitely a code brown moment ! Cheers buddy...
Nice as always Del. Hi to Penny, nice to see her back in the garage. Cheers!
Thanks Syed, Penny says Hi.. !
Very good explanation, fully with all details to make a great job. I learn much with your videos. Please don’t stop. Thanks again. Gaaasssss!
Thank you Andy !
Great video Del. Could have done with seeing this before I blindly worked on my track bike last year! Pumped and pumped the brake after I took the pads out and was very surprised to see the piston come flying out along with all the brake fluid, filling the system with air. What a nightmare... suffice to say I'm a little more clued up now :)
Nowt wrong with that mate, that;s known as 'exploratory research' - now you know what happens if you keep pumping without the pads in, and you didn't know that before - see...... every day's a school day !
enjoyed watching this, having changed pads already on a different bike. picked up some tips and tricks. Cheers. Robert
Thanks Robert , glad it could help you out !
Thanks for this video. Convinced me I could replace the worn front pads on my Viffer with new ones; which I did, successfully.
Glad the video helped Dave, thanks for your support!
Cheers for the link. Time to get some ordered!!!
You're welcome Dan - good luck with it !
Love it Del and Penny keep up the good work
Smashing job Del, always after my SO's turkey baster when draining out the brake fluid
I just use a straw , it tastes great
I wasn't gonna tell them that, but hey, have you tried the Dot5 purple stuff?? It's blackcurrant flavour you know lol !
Aha great video as usual our Triumphs seem to be ageing in sync just yesterday I went out to buy new brake pads this video couldn't have been more timely!
Nice once mate, glad to help - you can't too much time cleaning those pistons... and get them ight back flush in to the sockets, should be fine !
Great tutorial and great explanation of changing and maintaining the break pads!! i know how to do it but i still learned something from this video!!
Thanks buddy, it's always good to keep it fresh !
these are the basics people who ride should know and be able to do themselves, bikes are built to be able to maintain them from home, gotta learn endnote always rely on a garage all the time!! again man i love the videos!!
Great instructional as always fella, I did all my maintenance between the Scotland trip and going to the south coast, funny my brake pads and calliper pots looked exactly the same as that lol. Any luck the front sprocket will turn up before the weekend at Hayling island. Ride safe to you both.
Cheers, did spot your video (am always watching) and yep, all get crudded up like that aye, and jealous of your eccentric adjustors, the later ali wheel model came with slide adjustors which was a typical backward step as Triumph attempted to break their ties with their Kawasaki past, as basically the swing arm on your bike is straight off a ZX10... (handy if you can't find a Triumph one aye lol)...
Cheers for the swing-arm info, and the latest brake vid, always learning stuff from your vids.
Hi, thank you very much for your videos, they have helped me a lot. I have a Triumph Tiger 955I 2005. Greetings from México !
Hi there, great to hear from you, and thank you for watching all the way from Beautiful Mexico..:-)
Hello Del!
When you come to Mexico here you have a friend to know fantastic motorcycle routes;)
Regards !
Hi there! Great video with very, very useful tips! Thank you!
Good video, same way as I do them Del. As for the wine glass trick I do it to every empty one I find at my local Pub (it drives the Guvnor mad).
Ha hsa.. im glad it wasn;t only me... try it in a big brandy glass... makes a deeper note...(you can see my Nan dodnt let me watch TV when i was at her house..lol)
hi delboy - ive recently aquired a 995 and noticed the front brake jamming when i try to push it from stationary next day - needless to say i stopped riding it as soon as this happened:) suspect it is a combo of all the problems you covered. plan to take the calipers apart over next few days - thanks for the vid really helpful :)
Feel safer already! ;-) Followed this info 100% when changing out the brake pads on Melly's 2007 Triumph Speedmaster. Interestingly they are the EXACT same calipers front & rear. Good stuff!
Cheers!
Mike & Melly
Don't want to disappoint you buddy, but these calipers (well, their design at least) first saw the light of day in 1986 on a Kawasaki GPZ600R, they initially had a larger leading piston and smaller trailing piston, but think they have since determined that this makes no difference, it just reduces overall force, so they have twi full sized pistons now! But this design is so old, I think Noah used themvon his wheelbarrow lol !
Well, not disappointed at all. Should mean that replacement parts will be on hand for years to come! That's at least a small benefit to the bike manufacturers all sharing the same parts bin from suppliers. Doesn't Nissan make these for Triumph?
Hi Rench Ranch, on my 2005 Tiger 955i the front and rear brake pads are different. On previous Tiger models (or other Triumphs) there may be the same types at front and rear...
The originally fitted pads on my bike, are NISSIN (not Nissan) MN146EF at the front. Have to remove the rear ones still, so cannot yet tell which type they are.
I've always been using heavy machine grease with a high thermal limit with no issues but I will give copper slip a go as it looks less messy.
I did a video on this some time back, however, 'high melting point' the grease is, it won't beat Copperslip, as that simply doesn't have a melting point, as it doesn't melt, I proved it in the video by actually setting fire to a blob of it, it burns, like a little candle flame all by itself, but the effect after about a minute, was that it just goes a bit waxy and absoluely never melts, but the highest melting point grease is about 450degrees and brake will get that heat, easily, on a sunny day whilst out playing and once it melts, capillary action will take it to the pad faces in no time...
To expand on the tight fitting allen keys. For this job to not use slightly concave faced allen keys (eg. Wera Hex-Plus) even if they are a tight fit (by design a lot aren't). With a constant high force they will slowly deform the entire head making it a tighter fit in the calliper body as it slowly rounds out the hex socket.
Nice vid guys. If you go back to the other vids you can see how far your production has come. very good
Thank you so much my friend, I did take a look at a really old video the other day, and it wasn't good lol ...! Now I know what actors mean when they don't watch their early work... what a muppet I was !
+Moonfleet41 haha, its was real and it still is and i think thats why so many people love the channel.
I got to say your 'general ' is looking really cool. The aircraft rivit look really suits it ... 'Proper job sir '
Cheers buddy, i thought you'd seen the old General, perticularly proud of the 3mm steel bash plate... it was so thick, i had to score the fold lines with a grinder first to get them to bend...i recon i could ride over an IED and wouldn't notice...muah ha ha..!
+Moonfleet41 yeah I've seen her before and that bash plate is worthy of its own flack jacket that's for sure. It just weathered very well that's what I mean the overall look is very apt for the bike in 'general'
Ah yeah, i know what you mean, they always look better once they get a few winters under thier belt aye...lol
+Moonfleet41 don't they just its a shame most of mine is ripped off . So I got to change pipes but I'll get there .... Maybe lol
Nice Penny is back, the filming is so dinamic :)
By the way, you can use a syringe for the brake liquid.
Glad you appreciate the filming, been a bit busy lately, thank you , Penny!
Love the bike and your videos !!
Cheers Scott!
Excellent learning video as usual.
Thanks mate, much appreciated!
Awesome vid. I noticed you mentioned the high frequncies emitted from the piston heads. I have an old CBF600 and my front brakes always make a loud screech the more intense the braking is. There doesn't seem to be any muck or grit on the pads...so maybe it's that high frequency vibration i can hear.
Exactly that mate, give them a clean, grease the back of the pads, and if it doesn't go away altogether, it will be vastly reduced !
Cool to see the Tiger again, looks well! That hemp rope looks the business, was wondering at the time how it would hold up.
Cheers buddy, yep holding up well, getting grubby - which is good lol !
I just installed brembo pads sinter on my tiger 955i and if i break( 30mp/h to stop) ...its like locomotive ...squeak squeak squeak,
I made all , clean with break claner,lubricate i used a copper paste but no change.
Great videos!! Regards from Spain.
Thank you , glad you enjoy the vidoes, all the best , D&P!
Hi, Del,
I can assure you it is not that simple. I changed my front brake pads on my commuting bike with the same brake set up (fixed disc and floating caliper). After changing the brake pads and mounting on the caliper, as I started to pump the brakes to take back the free space,The wheel started locking up and creating resistance. HaHa. After multiple disassembling and assembling the brakes.And a couple of days. I realised that I did not check the float of the caliper. Which turned out to be seized. Cleaned and lubricated the float and wola good as new. But I must admit it drove me crazy.
Hi buddy, in the longer edit of this video, I did initally mention that making sure when you push the pistons back using the old pad, as I showed, to make sure the slide frame moves back with it ... in a deeper service, in the future, I will show stripping and cleaning the slides, but hey, all you have to do every six months, is pull the little rubber gaitor back out the way , just squish the tube of your Copperslip in under the gaitor, snap the lip of it back in to place and massage the gaitor about to spread it around in there, and they will always stay free!
"Lozenges". Lol. Major side benefit of your vids is the linguistic creativity.
Diamond geezer ;)
Linguistic creativity?? Thanking you most superfusously - I think lol !
agreed : )
Mad Max style this bike :)
Great video !!
Thanks mate!
good vid del defo one area u can't afford to neglect
Woohoo! As far as I can see I was the first like! Anyway, exactly the same set up as my Dullville mate with those pins, pads were shagged out but brakes had obviously been recently serviced. Checking the whole thing out now, just to be sure! RSM8
Nice one Ian, always good or keep it checked over ..!
Yep, all good now buddy, next job, fluid change, then full service. But 4 plugs on a v-twin? Weird!
Great video.I prefer a 'T' Allen Key,saves having skinned knuckles.
Great video bud, I've done loads of bike and car brakes but I still prefer to watch someone else do them 😜, regards Stu 🔧👍✌️🏍
Thanks Stu, appreciate you watching !
spot on mate..
P, as a patron you will know i fully respect the work you and penny do for fellow riders, however, i felt in this video you missed a vital point when fitting new pads to a sliding type caliper, that is the slide pins themselves. I think it would have been worth mentioning them, and the importance they have in a smooth even operation of the caliper. Personally i also remove and clean the slide plate that the none pinned end of the brake pad sits on, as there is often corrosion behind this too. loving the fighter build, take care, Pete.
Hi Pete, back at the last garage, I did a video called 'Triumph Brake Service' and covered exactly that, but at the time, the pads were only just worn in and I didn't have to put new ones in it... I did cover the slide pins in this and their operation. I am always mindful not to simply repeat videos blow for blow... it's important to cover the really crucial matters more than once, and if they come up for service, or replacement, then I always make a video of them... but to simply copy the last video, almost word for word is, I feel, short changing the viewer and, more importantly, the Patrons because nobody wants to donate to the same video twice - you are quite right, I should have made better mention of the slide pins and how important they are, or at least, referred viewers to the last video, which had more detail on it... but I don't script these things, I ad lib on the hoof, and quite often, things I intend to say in the video, just get missed in the flow of continuity, and it's only when I edit and render them, that I realise it was missing... I guess the only solution is scripts, and whilst the channel is growing, and we are trying to get more 'professional' all the time, scripting is a long way off yet, and to be honest, I don't really want it anyway, cos I think it kills 'realism'...... anyway, thank you for that feedback, my friend, it is important and valued because only by listening to our viewers, can we keep them on board , thank you , all the best, Del & Penny
should i be worried!? ..my mate somehow put it all back together my rear calliper minus one pad.( luckily not the one agsinst the pistons) and rode it for half n hour before realising. Iv checked and its worn down some of the calliper face! ..refitted other pad. it works ok.( not sure if braking is as good? or its just because i know its worn a bit away ? ) Do you think the skimming away some of the calliper .would affect it much?
Hi Tim i guess it all depends on how much damage you've done to the caliper casting, if it's just a scuff then you may get away with it, but if it's a significant amount then you may be better replacing it... and as i can't see it i can't really advise, but for the best opinion, you could take the bike to your local friendly MOT station, and ask the tester to take a look and make a judgement for you... then be guided by his (or her) advice.. i know its maybe a ballache, but it's your brakes, and your safety, so why not be sure, the peace of mind will be reassuring at least..?.. hope that helps mate, good luck with it.. Del.
good job mate, ive had probs with my back one, needs a complete strip I think, pistons are like yours can get them clean but there's a bit of staining from where corrosion has started but no matter how clean I get them the back brake never quite releases properly and binds, but only seems noticeable when wheeling the bike backwards, cant tell going forwards, don't know what that's all about, but been meaning to just pop the pistons out and maybe change the seals or at least clean behind the seals
hat's the best soution mate, it's inevitable in the end, specially on the back... the salt builds up, the heat dries the water away, and then the crystals get left behind , pushing the dust seal out against the piston ... no matter how much you clean the piston, it's the seal that's doing the damage.... like you say, strip it out, clean it, new seals, and they will be like new!
thanks mate
Top stuff. Can't speak for others but I'd be interested on a video about your opinions on protective gear. Whats worth buying whats not. Keep up the good work!
Id love to do some gear reviews....but TBH, i dont have the time, and nobody would send me the gear to review..lol!
heyo del. thank you both for taking your time making these videos, even though you have covered this task before it's still very interesting to watch. i read somewhere that when doing this kind of maintenance on cars, you shouldn't push the pistons back in without opening the bleeder valve first. does this count for bikes as well? something about damaging the seals and parts in the master cylinder as it's made to push fluid in one direction only. also, if one of the pistons is unwilling to come out just like in your video when you had to help it out (it happened to me too), is that all good or a sign that something is binding?
I've never had any problems pushing pistons back on a bike buddy... and all brake pistons should be free to move, the only time they bind up is through dirt and corrosion... so they should always come out reasonably easily... hope that helps you mate, take care, Del
Seen to many times people forget to pump the brakes up after a repair and crash. Cars cycles, etc. The only type that don't need to be pumped up are the mechanical rod and lever type.
Too right, but you only do it once aye...lol
Just a quick query, would red rubber grease be better on the pistons, as I was told that copper slip would swell the rubber seals and make them soft ? Great how to as usual though. Thanks Del and Penny.
And again we get this question lol - please read the response I gave below this one... red rubber lubricant MELTS like ordinary grease and will flow all over your discs and any noxious liquid expands and swells rubber seals... the brake fluid itself does this to the seals , otherwise they wouldn't seal.. same as the rubber gasket on your fuel tank tap, they expand and become squidgy, all noxious chemicals soften and puff up rubber, but they do no other harm to it at all -it's quite normal but Copperslip never melts, the presence of it over the exposed sides of your pistons will prevent harmful corrosion and keep the dust and road crud from forming a hard crust, it will stay stodgy and move when it needs to...
Hi,
Thanks for the vid :) I did this on my Tiger last week but essentially followed the service manual. I am getting a little bit of rattle from my pads and I believe this is due to not putting the copper grease on the back of the pads.
My question is: Manual says no to do it, as the copper would attack the seals in the pistons. Would it really? Also, I did not lubricate the middle of the guiding pin as I believe that greasing that ping would only attract more mud and making quite a mess later on. Is that correct?
Kind regards,
Two answers for you there my friend.. one, is the slide pin - and yes, you are correct, they must be dry and polished smooth, as any grease will attract sludge.... second, on the copperslip, there is a recent trend of warning against copperslip on brake pads, people have the belief that this, in some way, adversely affects the pistons seals, but this is quite wrong - firstly, there is no chemical reaction between copper and rubber, nor has there ever been, and there is no other chemical in copperslip that adversely affects rubber ... also, all pistons have two seals, an inner fluid seal ,which is protected by an outer dust seal, what will adversely affect this seal most is salt build up in winter riding, as the salt water from the roads dries out due to the heat of the brakes leaving salt crystals behind which , eventually, get behind the dust seal and push it out of it's groove to jam the piston... copperslip will prevent the salt water from getting to this area, but even still, it will not adversely affect the rubber... I have been doing this for 30yrs and never had a single problem, so whatever advice you have read is only ever assumed in theory, and never discovered from practice!
Thank you very much!! :) Experience tops it all for me ;)
Del, decent comprehensive video. What are your recommendations for bedding in new pads?
Hi buddy, this was a 2.5hr session in the garage and I did cover it a bit and I also talked about the EBC sintered pads, but it made the video nearly 1hr long and people won't watch , so we edited it down to just the installation... but seeing as you ask, it's a valid point, with these copper sintered pads, there is no beeding in period, they will bite as hard on the first application as they will in a month's time, or even at the end of their life... and if you've gone from wooly GG pads, then the Double H sintered pads will bite harder straight out the packet - in the edited out bit, I talked about the fact that some people claim sintered pads chew your discs out faster, but that's not try, they are more aggressive on discs, but you brake less, and with less duration, so they stay cooler, floating discs are less prone to warpage cos they don't overheat - and with shorter duration useage it should even out the wear, so slap them in and go use them mate !
Great video have been using cooper slip for years on all brake parts but was wondering if XCP would be expectable on the brake cylinders was thinking it would be better than cooper slip now ???? What do you think💭
Hi Gavin, the only place for copper slip on your brakes is on the threads of the bolts that hold the calipers to the legs, and on the back of the break pads, unless you have anti-squeal shims, and even then, just a tiny bit underneath them can eliminate any issues of squealing... I don't know what XCP product your proposing to substitute it with, cos it's just a brand name for many products, they make chain lubricant and a few other products besides, but either way, whatever you put on calipers, must be heat resistant and formulated for use on brakes, which copper slip is, as it says so on the packaging, and has been trusted for decades... so I'll leave you to make a choice on that basis my friend... all the best
Moonfleet41 thanks for the quick reply I think I'll stick to the tried and tested way
heya Dell,I got a iron 2014 and in my eyes was stupid enough when asked do I want ABS,said yes......am I right in saying that I can take out the ABS system and put in the old school break system???
Firstly buddy, congratulations on your Harley, you can strip out your entire braking system and just plumb it direct, I am just not sure it's 100% straightforward... so far I haven't had to work on an ABS Harley's brakes, so if they are just a simple disconnect and chuck away of all the ABS gubbings, then you can simply go master cylinders to calipers both ends with a straightforward hose and bleed them up, but if the ABS is in any way connected to the wiring loom, or ECU, then it will need by-passing, could be worth a phone call to H-D to just check, and by all means ring another dealer cos I know what you mean about Warrs, I called them once for advice and got a very unpleasant response - most H-D dealers are great and happy to help !
he didn't remove the caliper mounting bracket, the slides get stuck if they are not lubed. and it the caliper does not slide on the carrier the pads wear out unevenly
Good vid
Great advice Del. Brakes are your life . Love the snap on Swan neck grips they are just great. Just a well not a silly question.
Are some pistons wind in. Regards Pete.
No mate, they are all push in as they have to push out !
I know what you mean Del . On a lot f cars the pistons have to have a tool to turn them back into the body of the caliper.
Slightly off topic for the vid but what's the best way to prep a bike for storage of 6 months or maybe more. In particular my bike being a zx6r B1h. The arrival of our baby boy means time is currently not as plentiful as before. Any advice would be great. As always, keep up the great work you both do :)
Ok, its a simple enough process. but a bit long winded to write it all here... so here is an old video i made about 5 years ago that lays out the basics.. ruclips.net/video/fPnaDJkWav4/видео.html
Hope it helps..
+Moonfleet41 thanks Del! That's been a great help!
Hey Del, You said you would explain why to use copper slip on the caliper pistons and not grease... But the explanation never came :D guess you just forgot mate but I am interested to know. Cheers.
Having trouble retracting the pistons back in after pumping them out for cleaning. Does anybody have any suggestion on how I can get those back in far enough to get my pads in?
Hi Curtis, can you get a G-clamp in there?? It also sometimes helps to take the fluid cap off the master cylinder, make sure it ins't full up, in fact it helps to remove 90% of the fluid from the resevoir and put a cloth over the top of it, then there's no hydraulic force holding the pistons out, and as you push them back you won't push all the fluid out - and remember the fluid leverl should be correct in the resevoir to the upper mark only with the pistons pushed back...if the G-clamp doesn't work, perhaps you have a big pair of grips you can squeeze it in with, put some cloth round the caliper to protect it obviously - hope that helps you, good luck !
Moonfleet41 Thank you! Once I removed the cap of the cylinder, I was able to push them back. Thank you for your response!
Great video. At 2:56 you use a word to describe the caliper movement. Sounded like "Lozenges". I did a Google search and also checked the Urban dictionary as well as the thesaurus, but to no avail. Did I hear you correctly, and if so, how do you spell the word. Thx js
The meaning of the word lozenge is not clearly fixed and has many uses, and one meaning is something that moves side to side, or back and forth, within a fixed space, as it rattles about... so the caliper lozenges side to side on a sliding pin and cos it's not on Google doesn't mean it's not right ... I learned English before Google was invented, so maybe that's it !
Thanks for the explanation! I will be adding it to my vocabulary. Best to Penny...
Great information and detail in how to take care.Jobs a good'n
(P) Great tutorial as always both of you!Should probably give mine a good clean 😉
+Moonfleet41 Lol, na did them in Feb for the MOT. Twin disc upgrade I'll have you know! 👍
Is there a difference between the grey/silver antiseize and copper slip?
Obviously the substance is different, but its reason for use and effect on threads is exactly the same... some call it Graphite grease... remember your grandpa telling you how to lubricate a zipper by rubbing a pencil up and down it?... pencils are made from graphite... and its all designed to stop things seizing up..!
Ok. So does that mean it's ok to use either one? I have been using antisieze but seen others use copper slip. Thanks
Yeah, pretty much two products for the same job..!
+Moonfleet41 Ok, thanks for your help as always :)
Good one Del ;-)
Thanks Abouzar !
Took my ybr 125 to local Yamaha how much did I pay £30 for one set pads including fitting. Local Suzuki wanted £105 plus parts for 45 minutes work.
Blimey that's a bit of a difference, but it's a time consuming job , I was once asked for £50 by a Honda dealer for a set of rear brake pads and as they had already fitted them, I couldn't walk away, and even after arguing the point that they are £15 on the internet, they argued "they weren't Honda ones" - I called the bloke a twat and said Honda don't make brake pads, they use EBC ones from the factory, suffice to say, I paid the bill and nevre set back through their thieving door again !
Hi Del. Great video. i have learned so much from you. can you let me know where you got the stainless steel pins from please.
Hi Dan, good to hear from you ! Got them from this place, here's link :
www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/stainless-steel-brake-pad-retaining-pins-triumph-rear-caliper-65mm-1xpair-oem-t2020966-6823-p.asp
Hope that helps!
Hi Delboy, interesting URL ! Checking on parts, I always stumble on the so-called VIN number, but I can't see any correlation to the frame number that is stamped on the bike, which is a 17 character alphanumerical string. Could you give me some advice ?
Del is certainly a bit happier when you are about Penny :)
Who wouldnt be once she starts giggling....!!!!
+Moonfleet41 Oh so very true. It is infectious. :D
Did you put Penny's toothbrush back ?
Shush, don't think she noticed!
Copper slip dosnt stop the brakes sequeling mate ... Its just a dust magnet
del do you live in yorkshire?
No mate, we're in Dorset ! Did visit Squires recently though, fantastic place!
oh i see i 1 or 2 wrods in this video made you sound like your from yorkshire lol im only 20 miles from Squires i go there most sundays with the wife love it there
Oi, LEAVE THAT BIKE ALONE!!!!!.............Oh OK it's just Del moving bikes...Start looked like cctv footage from crimecall ;))... great stuff Del and Penny, not complicated , just a simple job made interesting, Thanks.
Yeah there is a dodgy looking bloke lurking around in the garage ... and he comes in the house as well sometimes too - !!!!!!! Penny x
Ha Ha ,nice one Penny ;))
cool
I have a hypothetical question for Penny Pitstop. If Delboy was abducted by space aliens and you knew he was never coming back, how many boxes of See’s Chocolates would it take for you to let me have that Triumph Tiger? :)
Penny went and Googled 'See's Chocolates'..... now after all the years of keeping them out of her field of vision, she has found them... now ill have to lock the Tiger up extra safe in future...!
a like and a comment.
A Mechanic see's his apprentice drinking the brake fluid.
He says "what the hell are you doing"
The apprentice say's " I don't know, I just can't stop"
Sorry, it just had to be told, I'll go back in the garage now, ashamed !
OMG, I've been around the block but honestly I hadn't heard that one before; Ta, I love corny jokes!
Oooh, copper slip on the pistons... not a good tip I don't think Del!! Should use red rubber grease for that bit.
Mate, how many times I have said this in this video alone - red rubber lube MELTS - try it ! It's not different to regular grease, just formulated using a synthetic base than that of petroleum base and it's melting point is little more than boiling water, the Copperslip does no harm to your caliper seals and will prevent corrosion around the exposed part of the pistons...
...every time I hear this, I guarentee it's from people who heard it somewhere else.. .anything that is on your pistons will find it's way on to the back of the pad and anything on the back of the pad.... that melts... will find it's way on to your disc ! Please try this for yourself, rather than listening to hearsay... just set a lighter against a bit of rubber lube, and watch it turn in to liquid - do you really want that inside your caliper, it will be no different to having a leaking piston seal... but as I always say, you please do what work for you !
copper slip has been bought
Good one mate, make it a staple, you will always use it !
Del, great video though.
Thanks Paul !
only ask because,I hate having ta bring my bike ta warrs Harley
nice bike!
Rat garage
What kind of rope is that? I fear about the heat
+Daniel Massolini Lippel he uses Standard hemp rope. There's a whole video on it :)
RC Churchy Thank you very much! And Becky York too!
Her comment is invisible don't know why. kkk
i guess i can live without copper slips, right?
As long as your brakes don't squeal, then yes.!
well then. i will figure out this sunday :) thanks for the answer
Nice generic reminder :)
The guy is an extremely good mechanic, the only thing I can not understand is why does he insist on modifications to get a horrible motorcycle....the triumph Tiger is a nice motorcycle, now it is a Frankenstein....very ugly bike ¡