You’ve got people that are really good in mechanical work and you’ve got people who have those skills AND possess the talent of explaining & teaching others to enter the world of engineering and truely start to love working on their own bikes because of this. Thanks for bringing the enthusiasm and confidence to us viewers. As a former teacher I really appreciate your channel the way you share your passion and knowledge. Cheers from the Netherlands, Gert
Good evening Gert, thank you so much from us both for such kind words of support and encouragement... it's a team effort and we both work together to make it happen... once again, we really appreciate your kind comments and we're glad to have you aboard!
5yrs ago I bought a Triumph Scrambler. (My grandfather rebuilt 6 triumphs from the bolts up between 1945-1998. One went on to place in the Isle of Man in 1948 if I remember correctly. I grew up with the smell of Triumph engine oil in his garage) I wanted to be able to service and maintain MY bikes in that honor (he passed away 3 months after I bought my bike so wasn’t able learn from him). I have managed 100% due to your channel. Please do not underestimate the effect you have by allowing us all into your garage. Massive thank you.
Hi Simon, thank you so much for your very kind words, we are honoured to have been able to help... what a wonderful story about your granddad, I remember mine teaching me many lessons I still cherish today... we never stop missing them aye... appreciate your kind support, Penny still has her Scrambler, so they'll be more videos in the future! Ride safe, and stay in touch, D&Px
Watched this last night after I got an MOT advisory for a sticky calliper. Took it apart as per Del’s step by step instructions, cleaned it all up, pushed the pots out, cleaned and red grease liberally applied to the pots, slide bar and rubbers, then copper slip on the threads of the pad pins. Didn’t change my pads as they weren’t old and were not showing any uneven wear. Works a treat now. Cheers! I’m going to upgrade the pots to the TRK from Wemoto when it’s next time to do the pads.
Thanks for the feedback Andrew, im glad you got it fixed, it's usually just dirt that hangs up the pistons, and little more then a quick clean is all they need.. you'll love the TRK pistons when you come to that, they are way better made than the factory ones, a definite upgrade..
Hi Delboy .... Ive just watched your video because I am changing front and rear brakes on my Triumph Street Twin 2020 and like you, I like to give them a little clean at the same time. My fault, I've allowed the dealer to talk me into doing these sort of jobs, normally same time as my mot. So ... this time, doing it myself, I completely forgot where to start what to look out for and so on. Thats when one of your videos comes in very handy. Brilliantly explained, nice no rush, easy to understand. I do tend to skip bits, until I find the bit I need a refresher on. Like caliper Slide carrier you show above. Mine is stuck. Even though I've done brakes many times, there is a long time lapse so, I couldn't for the life of me remember if its suppose to move or even pull out all together. Your video was amazing in showing just what I needed. Thanks very much for taking the time and effort to make these videos and for explaining everything so patiently and well. I'm sure many people must also appreciate it. 10/10
Thank you so much for youe kind words of support Terry, im really glad the video can help you out.. i totally understand what you mean, when we only do jobs once every couple of years, it's easy to forget the little details.. Hope it all went ok, and of course.. Ride safe mate. !
I've watched several of your videos now Del and I've realised what it is I like about them so much. Besides the fact I've learned a huge amount from the detailed, clear and concise instructions and advice you give. What's particularly good about you and your videos is, you don’t have any annoying linguistic tics, like so many people have these days, such as: "basically", "obviously", "literally", "like so" , "there you go", "at the end of the day" and so on… Keep up the good work Sir.
Thanks mate, blimey I'm gonna have to watch I don't say those things now lol I think my least favourite these days is how everybody seems to start every sentence with 'So...' , sometimes dragged out to a 'Soooooooo....', like it's a ready, steady before they start their answer!! .. and don't get me started on 'I was like, she was like...' ...... Just wonder sometimes what's happening to our glorious language!! Have a great weekend and thanks for your support.
Delboy's Video's.. Are so great.. Helps me with work on my Triumph Thunderbird 900.. All My Brakes are working so well now.. Full rebuild, Disc & Pad, Front & Back.. Fantastic.. Cheers Delboy.. !
Thank you buddy, and I think you have the coolest user name on You Tube and reading your message, I think you're going to rather like the next project we're rolling in in a week or so!
Details make everything, delboys attention to every little thing makes this videos so useful and entertaining. This is what you call quality content, simple as that.
Dude, u mentioned so many things I needed answers for in this vid.. to think I’ve done my breaks already and almost didn’t click on this one but glad I did because I can correct a couple things .. thanks!
@@Moonfleet41 I'm hoping you can help answer the following question. Is the EBC double-H sintered metal brake pads FA214 2HH The correct pads for the rear brakes on a 2020 Speed Twin? I can't find any literature confirming that it is. Thank you in advance for your help.
Really appreciate your low-key explanations and completely thorough approach to the work being done. I wish all mechanics took the time to do it right. Regards from Southeastern Idaho.
Was watching ur vid thinking i wish i had a setup like that. I just bought a 2005 Bonnie with carbs, and to my surprise, no center stand, no spool holes. I've always done my own repairs, but every bike I've had, has had a center stand. I see the frame jack u have, but its so narrow, the frame, I get a little iffy. I do for sure need a chain, so gotta make up me mind. I'm so glad Triumph used stainless spokes. My old CB 750 Honda didn't. Always looked dull. You do it right,for sure. Thanks.
Hi Peter, I know what you mean mate, it can be frustrating when there's no way to stand your bike upright... I generally tend to throw a little table jack beneath the frame, but it's not ideal and nor is it very secure... but here's a couple of links that may interest you from TEC Bike Parts, first is some bobbins that fit through your rear wheel axle, it's extremely simple to fit, takes literally less than 60 seconds to slap it through the axle and screw the ends on, and then you can lift the back of the bike with a paddock stand,... here's a link: www.tecbikeparts.com/product/paddock-stand-bobbins-axle-adaptor-bobbins-kit-to-fit-thruxton-scrambler-900cc-up-to-2016-aircooled-models/ (we have a video which incorporates this upgrade if you need it). And also here is the general page as some aftermarket centre stands, as many of the early Triwww.tecbikeparts.com/products/shop-parts/triumph-aircooled/stands-triumph-aircooled/ummphs cam e with the mounting but no stand... maybe they will help you too...!
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks, i see. It's a threaded rod that goes through the axle and attaches to the spools,bobbins? I'm wondering if the bolt that comes with the bobbins would be sufficient. I just received a set I ordered with 8mm bolt? You have two people there in UK that have factory stands. But they want 200 dollars plus 100 shipping. If they were still making them or just had some in stock, I could buy it locally for 145 bucks. That's the center stand. I love this bike, but by the time I'm done I could have paid enough to let the service center work on it. Haha. I'll check the sites u sent. Thanks again Del.
I have to say it has been great to see your video production quality continue to keep getting better all the time. I have watched for years now and I can really see all your hard work it makes a huge difference in the enjoyment of watching the vids and I thank you for the effort keep up the great work.
Thanks you so much for that glowing feedback my friend, we do take a lot more trouble over the post production now, it takes about 16 hours to fully edit and prepare the video for publication.. to each one is around 20 hours work end to end... and its great to know its appreciated.. i think with RUclips, its important to grow and improve over time if you want to retain your loyal viewers.. nobody wants to watch the same thing at the same level year in year out... Evolve or die aye..lol take care. Del.
Hi Del, I'm reading you loud & clear; here/up North, UK. Your videos are some of the most watchable on RUclips.Keep up the good work; your tutorials are very much appreciated by my ZZR :-)
Thanks again for the awesome video as always, Del! @11:55 you recommended a HT white lithium grease on the sliding pins. I was referencing a service manual and it said 'Never use mineral-based grease (such as lithium or copper-based grease) in any part of the braking system or in any area where contact with the braking system is possible. Mineral-based grease will damage the hydraulic seals and dust seals in the calipers and master cylinders.' It also suggested lubrication with silicon-based grease (T2022021) for the mounting bracket pins. Should I just go with your choice as I always have? Thanks!
Great video! Ive owned bikes all my life but am only just starting to do my own mechanicals. This was so helpful and informative. Thanks for all your hard work.
Great video! Once again, teaching this old dog new tricks! About to retire so I'm looking forward to putting all the stuff I'm learning into practice. Fortunately my pro is just around the corner if I get too far ahead of myself! 🤓
Quality video with great tips I learned a ton today about how to do the job the right way. You're a class act and look forward to watching your other videos.
What can I say? Your content and presentation just get better all the time. I'm running a similar set of jobs to you at the moment as I have a new bike to sort - so I'm enjoying the little details.
Moonfleet41 I'm going back in time as starting in some of your old videos. Well that's what it feels like. I've got a new commuter bike - a 650 Bandit S
The rain...is beautiful...i love the winter and the rain good video good bike and so good job from argentina buenos aires congratulations you're a master
Handy tool for brakes work is fairly common in northern North America as each 1/5 (750 ml) bottle of Crown Royal has a purple & gold flannel bag. These fit perfectly over calipers and with draw string easily attach to bike in ideal location.
Another amazingly informative video. One thing I didn't know was that you need to back off the tension on the torque wrench all the way. Thanks for informing us of that even though I'm doing all my own work on my bike I never knew that you could knacker the wrench by not backing it off. Thanks for that I've just had to buy all new tools over the past 12 months cos my garage got broken into and took all my tools I had everything I could possibly need now is have to start again. It was done on 1st April last year, not a very funny prank too pull. I'm still finding that some of the tools i used I haven't got and it's annoying that I have to go and buy it. I had about £2500 of tools taken. Thanks again for the video and keep doing what you do best, clear and consise instructions. Ride save bruv and the misses too.
Bloody hell mate, that's horrible... the worst thing of all is trying to remember everything you had so the insurance can replace it, not to mention the old sentimental tools, because the worse things is, they are the ones that the thieving scum will throw away as not worth anything... whenever I see second hand tools for sale in quantities, I often wonder where they have come from... hope you get it all square again soon fellah, and thanks for taking the time to write, all the best D&Px
I can't stress enough how informative these videos are. The only thing I worry about now is my local bike garage loosing money because I'm doing the smaller jobs myself XD Crack on, fella' :D
Great video and sound and attention to detail.I think some of the heat you mention in the chain while riding comes from the final drive sprocket transferring heat from the engine also.Keep up the good work for the DIY's in your audience.
Hi Del. Just replaced both front discs on my tiger 955i. Got new bolts as you recommended. I have to say the genuine bolts from Triumph were cheaper than Wemoto. They also have caps to cover them. Great video. keep up the good work.
Hi Del, mate your 'productions' just seem to get better and better! Quality explanations, advice and tips, close-up photography of the bits in question - it's all just really great. VERY useful point about checking the caliper carrier and how well it slides and the implications if it doesn't. When are we going to see Delboys garage on the telly - soon I hope for your sake. PS I really like the torque settings coming up on the screen !!!!!!
Love your video man! Your attention to details is just just amazing! I also do my DIY jobs just like you! Till date I haven't taken MTB and motorcycle to any mechanic, because they charge a bit and the job they do is just laughable, they fix one thing and create more problems due to carelessness, at least in my nation. They bang the crap outta every component while fixing it.
Dear Delboy, love the content. I recently purchased an 05 Thruxton in racing yellow and you inspired me to do my own maintenance. It seems to need a bunch of work, but most recently I examined the rear breaks and saw uneven pad wear. Upon closer inspection, one of the pistons is tight and barely moves either out using the lever, or back in using my finger. Is there anything to do at this point to fix the offending piston prior to a full caliper overhaul, or am I looking at a full rebuild of this caliper?
Hi Kyle, good to hear from you and congratulations on the bike... and yes you can do a little maintenance on that that might free it off without having to strip it, just drop the caliper off and take the pads out, hold the free piston (perhaps with a G-clamp) and pump out the offending piston just a little way until you see clean metal, then with lots of hot soapy water and a toothbrush, scrub all round the piston 'gum line' and get it totally clean, then wash all that out with brake cleaner... if you have some, then a little rubber lube smeared round the piston, and then just work it in and out... you can wind it in with the clamp and pump it out a few times to free it off.... then wipe all clean and dry and re-install it. It should give you a stay over execution, at least a few months if you use it every day, but if it doesn't work, then stripping and re-building it certainly will... everything you need you should find in our Playlists!
@@Moonfleet41 Update, offending piston is still offending me! I did a thorough clean and grease, used the clamp method to slide it in and out a couple of times, but one still does not want to push out. I also flushed and replaced brake fluid. Still not popping out. Unless there is another item to troubleshoot that I am not thinking of, it looks like I'll need the caliper rebuild in the end. (the only other item I can think of is the brake fluid reservoir is weeping ever so slightly but I do not think it is bad enough to cause one of the pistons to stay..) Should I just pop out the pistons, clean the caliper and seals, and then reassemble, or replace components as well? Or does it depend on how shot the pistons are...(mine are not that bad)
@@kalmanmandel9999 Hi Kyle, it sounds like this one's being stubborn..., firstly it'll be nothing to do with your weeping fluid, it's unrelated... I imagine it's the classic situation where road salt, which is always there even through the summer, gets in to your system, the heat from the brakes dries away the water and salt crystals form behind the dust seal and physically push it out of it's groove and it just jams the piston... no amount of working it in and out helps, like you say, best solution, pop both pistons out, hook the seals out, clean everything for all it's worth till it looks brand new and re-assemble it all from scratch... you won't need new seals unless you damage one, as you say, the system looks pretty good, but if you find you do once stripped, then Wemoto can get one on your doorstep next day... if you get stuck we've lots of videos on it.... best of luck with it!
great video Del, fantastic explanations to all the jobs you do, looking forward to the next installment, it gives riders the incentive to carry out mechanical and maintenance work on their own machines with confidence and a can do attitude, keep them coming....
Brilliant video mate, I need to check the rear caliper on my 92 Triumph trophy 900 as 1 pad (closest to the piston) has worn more than the other and the disc is rusty
Great video again. i have only one issue with the slinky clutch cable, the end adjuster has gotten a fair amount of surface rust building up in a couple of months. you may want to give them a coating of something. however the cable itself is great, so much smoother than my original. I would not have tried to change the cable before watching you.
Fantastic video as always , Thanks to you, I have successfully changed my rear pads and ordered some stainless steel pins I'll follow your video and do the fluid next, keep up the good work . I hope your channel is a financial success and you make a good living off it. PS I think you should get a softail slim next , [ no it's not because I have one] - OK it is.
Thank you for your kind words, and im glad the videos have been able to help you out, good luck with the fluids, and yeah, i'd love a Softail slim, what a classic icon and great to see Harley still making old school bikes that will never date.
Hi Delboy, love your work - very British style. Can you please comment on 1. The difference between brake pads that have one piece compared to those with multiple padlets with slots between them. 2. Should the backing plate of OEM pads be reused with aftermarket pads like EBC?. Thanks for your time.
Yet another great video, reminded me that I've ran out of a few basics aswell. just a thought but have you considered doing a video on what tools and bits and bobs to have in the garage, been a few times where I've seen your videos and then I've had to go out any buy the tool or whatever to complete the job... just a thought 😊
Great job Del, will deffo have to do this with mine,,,, have had binding issue following the freeze ur nutz ride obviously salt. What's you opinion on remounting above ? Take care both.
Hi Tony... i think you mean the rear caliper.. there is a top mount for it... i think you need another brake hose to reach, not sure, and if you get your bike muddy and covered in road grime, then i guess it could help... but the dirt will still stick to it day to day which ever way it is..! it wont release you of the cleaning duties buddy..lol
Another great video but my shopping list keeps growing. I changed my pad pins for stainless on the rear but the front one I ordered seemed to have a naff thread. Fair play to square deal as he sent a replacement out straight away but again it only went in about half way then started to feel a bit tight so I took it out as I didn't want to knacker the thread in my calliper. Phoned pro bolt and got one which goes in cleanly as the stock one dose but it's a race spec one with a small hex socket and a small nut on the end. They don't do a stainless one like the original one. With this one you can't fit the little cap cover so I needed up putting the stock one in again. If you find a stainless pin to fit the front when you do it please mention where you got it..
Hi buddy, invest in a tap & die set, and you'll find you can remedy all these problems in two minutes... as far as I remember, it's an M10 fine thread, and you will find that in any reasonable T&D set, then if you feel it's a little tight, you can wind it through a die and that will leave you with a perfect thread, and as they are stainless, there is no plating to worry about! A lot of the tie this occurs because the threads are cut before the cap head hole is punched in it, and that spreads the thread... either way, the factories don't fit stainless ones, so they will always be aftermarket, and I use Squaredeals too!
Hi Del, thanks for this tutorial, quality video!!! Just changed the pads on my speed triple but I think will need to take down the calliper again and do it properly like you showed on here. Just a quick one, is normal that the disk is much hotter after replacing the pads? Is not glowing hot but hot enough so you can't touch it...thanks.
Hey Gregor.. Thanks for your kind comments, with your rear caliper, the disc should never be hot if you haven't used it.. that indicates that its binding and needs a clean up to free off the pistons.... but if you ride the bike normally, and use the brake as intended then it will get hot.. Best test is to go for a short ride, no more then a few miles, but in that time, dont touch the back brake... then when you get back, feel it to see if its hot.. if it is, then thats proof its binding and you must deal with it.. Sometimes fitting new pads can lead to this because they are thicker than the old worn out ones.. which means pushing the pistons back in further then before.. and if there is any brake dust or road dirt on those pistons, then when you push them back in that dirt will jam up on the seals and cause the caliper to bind.....follow like it says in the video, pump them out a bit then clean them all off... should be fine afterwards.. Hope that helps
another top video, would you ever consider doing bike reviews? I'd be very interested to hear your opinion on some of the gadgetry on bikes now ie quickshifter, wheelie control and so on. I've used your videos on many occasions although I don't comment alot I watch them all. thanks for taking the time to make excellent tutorials.
Hi mate... The rubbish that passes for "bike reviews" now days in YT is guys taking dealer demos out for an hour, parking them in Tesco's car park and talking mostly rubbish about unimportant things.... A bike review needs to be carried out over a few weeks, all conditions, and tested back to back against the immediate competitor in the market... the problem with this is, nobody will lend me a bike for three weeks while i road test and report on it.. and im not about to join the army of mumbling demo riders..lol plus the garage keeps us pinned these days too mate.! Thanks for your faith though, much appreciated.
Moonfleet41 keep doing what your doing mate! I get what your saying. There is a car reviewer who is best on YT in my opinion, he also loves bikes. I think you would enjoy his approach. His channel is called Harry's garage if you've never seen it before. cheers.
(P)Excellent how-to! I'm not sure there's anything I would do I my bike, that you don't have a video for. I'll definitely be referencing many of them in the future!
I am so glad I have found your videos. They are giving me such confidence to 'have a go'. However, and I sincerely promise I am not taking the p... But does it matter if the cleaning solution you use is bio or non-bio. Would the 'bio' bit damage anything like the rubbers? Genuine question I promise!! Thanks.
Hi Daniel, Thanks for oyur kind words, im glad the videos have been helping you out... The rubbers in your braking system are pretty robust mate.. think of the the toxic poisons on the roads that coat them up every day.. road salt, oil and fuel residue, antifreeze residue, in fact any liquid that vehicles use can end up on the roads.. so no, dish soap is safe for the plates and cup you eat your food from.. so it'll be fine to clean your brakes with...
In previous videos you had used some copper slip on the outer side of the brake pads to prevent squealing, reduce vibrations. Why have you left the pads clean this time? Thanks for reply.
Solid mounted calipers tend to be the only type that squeal, and even then only on big discs at the front... the sliding mount on this caliper absorbs the vibration and thus the disc doesn't 'sing' as those vibes are transmitted across... also a small thick rear disc doesn't suffer from vibration either.. so no need on this bike,...
(P) Del, Pennys bike looks like new, them jobs really enhance the overall look mate. Ive sat with a smile just listening to the way you explain things, great job as always matey.
Regarding my post yesterday. I have been looking at lithium grease, none I have looked at seems to be what I want or need can you please advise the make you use and where I can purchase from, much appreciated.
Yes they do my friend, most definitely, you can't change the laws of physics, and as the sintered pads have more physical grade against the disc, they will wear it more quickly... but in defence of that, with some intelligent use of your brakes, you will brake for less duration which then reduces the time that they are rubbing on the disc so overall the increase in disc wear is marginal... and in my personal view, it's a fair trade off for better, and more effective, braking.
HI, Great video as ever. I have been refurbishing my calipers (2002 Speed Triple) and it is you that has given me the confidence to do so. Just seeking your opinion, I used red rubber grease on my hanger sliders, as I thought it may be better on those rubber socks...or is white lithium grease (or copper grease) better...? Does it matter? Also, I used brake fluid on the new seals and pistons to "lube" them in, rather than red rubber grease - again...does it matter? Many thanks!!
Hi mate, fundamentally red rubber grease is a silicone based lubricant, designed purely to lubricate the interface between rubber and metal (or other rubber if it needs to)... and yet the pin sliders for your caliper is actually a metal to metal interface that just happens to have a rubber boot over it to keep the weather out, so the rubber grease won't do a brilliant job of staying put in between the metal pin and bore, even though it protects the rubber, best thing to use is white lithium grease... it's tough, sticky and heat resistant and it'll stay put, and also it won't hurt the rubber at all... (it's also used on chains with o-rings when they're first assembled at the factory)... never use an anti-seize compound, such as copper slip, to lubricate anything, it's technically not lubricant mate. It's there to prevent corrosion, among other things... and using it on a sliding pin that moves in and out constantly can actually lead to accelerated wear, because the copper particles in the compund will eventually wear in to it, even though they are soft.
Just bought OEM throttle cable from Wemoto - should have waited for this video and gone for the slinky glide! Although you do a lot of the same job on your channel, you impart different bits of knowledge each time, some small detail or tip, which makes it very worthwhile to see. Also of course repetition as a viewer helps embed the knowledge, as does seeing it done on different types of bikes. With the wheel alignment, would measuring the length of the pulley bolt sticking out work to double check, or am I being an idiot?
Silicone grease on metal to rubber (caliper slide pins) and copper anti seize on metal to metal contact (where the brake pads sit on the caliper and where the pads touch the brake hardware)
@@alancuriel123456 @Otto is not My real Name @Moonfleet41 Delboy makes some great comedy videos with copper grease where he absolutley shellacs the brake pads, front and back, with copper grease!! lol I thought he was being serious but someone pointed out to me that it was one of Del's comedy videos on how to not use Copper Grease and it makes sense because no one would put so much grease on the back of break pads, especially modern brake pads that are built with anti sieze and anti squeal low noise pad backing and shims--but in these videos he put on so much copper grease it is coming off the back of the brake pads and getting all over the sides of the brake pads and would definitley have gotten all over the front of the pads and the rotors during the first ride! lol Yikes! Im looking at this and other videos to see if I can find his joke videos again because it's so funny! Apparently he has a few of them but my friend who told me about them didn't have links.. Great videos Delboy! Keep it up! lol
Were the pads the EBC Sintered (HH Type)?, I really want to upgrade the breaks on my T100, and I waiting to see how much improvement you get from your upgrade.
No need to wait buddy, have been using them for years, I can tell you, they are the right move,... the copper sintered material is more aggressive, presents more abrasion to the disc surface, therefore increased drag... the cost is a little more wear to the discs, but that is a price you have to consider for improved braking... but if you have the money, and can upgrade to EBC discs as well, then they are harder steel and will resist that wear being more resiliant, so an all round better solution, and why I'm doing mine!
Love your videos man, recently bought a thruxton 900 and wanting to learn more about my bike and your videos are very educational. BTW, what's your tire size? It looks dope.
Hi Waqas, thanks for your kind words... the back tyre is a 180/55/17 but you won't fit it on a standard rim, we had some custom rims made at 5.5x17 rear and 3x17 front... so we can now run sportsbike tyres!
Hey Del, I was changing my brakes and when trying to pump the pistons out to red rubber grease them, I must have pumped too much and the front piston fell out (and as it fell out there was some spillage, im guessing brake fluid). I shoved the piston back in, put the brakes on and mounted everything fully back on the rear brake, but now when I press the rear brake it isn't stopping. It kind of sounds like it's pumping air. Do you think I put a huge amount of air in the brake lines and bleeding them will solve my problem? Looking to hear back, thanks.
In the absence of lithium grease, i'd argue that due to the nature of electric charge, corrosion due to electron transfer and so on, ceramic high temp grease is superior to copper slip while being not that expensive either ( I think i paid 8€ for a 300gramm tube) in places where aluminium and steel touch.
Heya Del. Is white lithium grease ok for rubber? Also, I've used copper slip on brake pistons when I ran out of red rubber grease mid rebuild but was later advised it might react with the rubber seals. Re-cleaned the whole bloody lot a couple of days later! I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on it mate.
I initially thought the same about the lithium, but, the stuff he used was also used on the DID rubber chain link seals - in this case should be safe on brake rubber. You were right to remove the copper slip from brake pistons - stick with red rubber grease there, the copper slip can expand the rubber.
Copperslip does not corrode the rubber piston seals.. there are many armchair experts out there who will make up all kinds of rubbish based on half read information... truth is, not all rubber is the same, obviously, and the piston seals are designed to be resilient to extreme heat, all kinds of chemicals, and even acid...anything that would get onto your caliper... but a rubber children's party balloon will break if you sneaze on it... so its what kind of rubber you're talking about... The Lithium grease is great for the piston sides, its designed to coat up the chain 'O' rings, and they get hot all the time.... so that's the right answer buddy.. (until another keyboard expert comes along and wants to split hairs..lol)
Hi Del, I noticed when you did the rat bike pads you put copper grease on the back of the pads.. but you didn’t put any on these ones.. I’m about to change the pads on my Street Twin, just wondering if I should copper grease the back of the pads or not?
Did your brake squeal with the old pads Liam?.. if so, then use some and it'll stop it.. if not, then no need to bother mate. ! My bandit brakes squealed for a pastime.!
Delboy's Garage now that you mention it, the front did squeal a bit, I always thought it was the pads squeezing against the disc, I thought that perhaps the pads were dirty?
Hi Del as usual a great video. I'm wondering why you put copper slip on the caliper guide pins (rubber boots ) and no copper on the pad slip pins thanks Godwin
Not watching the video then..? I didn't put copperslip on the guide frame slide pins.. i put Lithium Grease... and i explained close up and in great detail exactly why i leave the pad slide pins polished and dry... Its all in the video chap.. all you have to do is watch it through..!
Aha, the old "Blame the dog ploy"... lol works for all kinds of things aye.. you know you can put them off buddy.. when its time to go, its time to go...lol
Does your bike have thin steel shims that fit between the pistons and the pads ? if so then NO... even then, do your brakes squeal when you apply them?.. if not, then NO, but if you have a problem with squealing brakes, then a little anti seize paste applied to the back of the pads SPARINGLY.. can reduce or even stop the squealing all together.. For what its worth buddy, its not "grease".. thats a name it seems to have gained somehow.. but its not for lubrication of any kind.. its a non ferrous paste to be applied between metal surfaces to stop them corroding.... its actually no good as a lubricant, it can cause wear to rubbing parts. so only use it as an "anti seize" compound, never as a lubricant.. its simply a misnomer that people call it copper grease..! Hope that helps.. good luck.. Del.
Is that the Sun rear sprocket +1 rear tooth that you put on the bike? Also, was the chain a perfect fit out of the box or did you have to add remove any links to make it fit?
Standard sprockets on the bike, factory gearing... and yes the chain fits out of the box because its the right chain for the bike.. order the right one, and they're send you the one that fits buddy.!
I love your videos! Very informative and I use them all the time. Where can I get some Stainless Pins for my calipers? Or what size would I be looking for? Thanks in advance. Cheers!
Hi buddy, I assume you are tlking about the brake pad retaining pin?? If so, I just look them up on Ebay and find the right ones... they will all be one size so just order them for your bike ...
I've just replaced the rubber booties on my rear caliper as they were about twice the size of the new ones. There's plenty of people saying copperslip swells the rubber? Is this something you've come across?
No buddy, not psecifically with copperslip, rubber swells in the presence of most chemicals, petrol on fuel tap seals, the gasket in your derby cover, sump plug o-rings, they all become soft and puff up, but will shrink back again when they dry out... use rubber lube inside as this doesn't contain the same chemicals as oil...
Hi delboy I just wanted to ask if kindly, am due to change my tyres and I am confuse of which ones to get,if advisory,I have a susuki gsxs 1000 and I wanted a sporty looking tyres for my bike, so I want something that last long for road and touring in a long journey if possible many thanks
If they're 'squishy', then you obviously still have air in the system, perhaps trapped in the caliper, try bleeding them through again and, perhaps, depress the lever overnight which can firm up the system a great deal by eliminating any micro-bubbles... also, when you bleed don't open the bleed valve any more than 1/8-1/4 turn or you will drag air in to it as you bleed. It's just practice mate, good luck with it.
The chain slack (owners manual) specified takes into account the rider/compression: mine measured 50 mm (limits 45 - 55 mm). My MOT centre made my chain slack an advisory!
You’ve got people that are really good in mechanical work and you’ve got people who have those skills AND possess the talent of explaining & teaching others to enter the world of engineering and truely start to love working on their own bikes because of this. Thanks for bringing the enthusiasm and confidence to us viewers.
As a former teacher I really appreciate your channel the way you share your passion and knowledge. Cheers from the Netherlands, Gert
Good evening Gert, thank you so much from us both for such kind words of support and encouragement... it's a team effort and we both work together to make it happen... once again, we really appreciate your kind comments and we're glad to have you aboard!
5yrs ago I bought a Triumph Scrambler.
(My grandfather rebuilt 6 triumphs from the bolts up between 1945-1998. One went on to place in the Isle of Man in 1948 if I remember correctly. I grew up with the smell of Triumph engine oil in his garage)
I wanted to be able to service and maintain MY bikes in that honor (he passed away 3 months after I bought my bike so wasn’t able learn from him).
I have managed 100% due to your channel.
Please do not underestimate the effect you have by allowing us all into your garage.
Massive thank you.
Hi Simon, thank you so much for your very kind words, we are honoured to have been able to help... what a wonderful story about your granddad, I remember mine teaching me many lessons I still cherish today... we never stop missing them aye... appreciate your kind support, Penny still has her Scrambler, so they'll be more videos in the future! Ride safe, and stay in touch, D&Px
Watched this last night after I got an MOT advisory for a sticky calliper. Took it apart as per Del’s step by step instructions, cleaned it all up, pushed the pots out, cleaned and red grease liberally applied to the pots, slide bar and rubbers, then copper slip on the threads of the pad pins. Didn’t change my pads as they weren’t old and were not showing any uneven wear. Works a treat now. Cheers!
I’m going to upgrade the pots to the TRK from Wemoto when it’s next time to do the pads.
Thanks for the feedback Andrew, im glad you got it fixed, it's usually just dirt that hangs up the pistons, and little more then a quick clean is all they need.. you'll love the TRK pistons when you come to that, they are way better made than the factory ones, a definite upgrade..
Hi Delboy .... Ive just watched your video because I am changing front and rear brakes on my Triumph Street Twin 2020 and like you, I like to give them a little clean at the same time. My fault, I've allowed the dealer to talk me into doing these sort of jobs, normally same time as my mot. So ... this time, doing it myself, I completely forgot where to start what to look out for and so on. Thats when one of your videos comes in very handy. Brilliantly explained, nice no rush, easy to understand. I do tend to skip bits, until I find the bit I need a refresher on. Like caliper Slide carrier you show above. Mine is stuck. Even though I've done brakes many times, there is a long time lapse so, I couldn't for the life of me remember if its suppose to move or even pull out all together. Your video was amazing in showing just what I needed. Thanks very much for taking the time and effort to make these videos and for explaining everything so patiently and well. I'm sure many people must also appreciate it. 10/10
Thank you so much for youe kind words of support Terry, im really glad the video can help you out.. i totally understand what you mean, when we only do jobs once every couple of years, it's easy to forget the little details.. Hope it all went ok, and of course.. Ride safe mate. !
I've watched several of your videos now Del and I've realised what it is I like about them so much.
Besides the fact I've learned a huge amount from the detailed, clear and concise instructions and advice you give. What's particularly good about you and your videos is, you don’t have any annoying linguistic tics, like so many people have these days, such as: "basically", "obviously", "literally", "like so" , "there you go", "at the end of the day" and so on…
Keep up the good work Sir.
Thanks mate, blimey I'm gonna have to watch I don't say those things now lol I think my least favourite these days is how everybody seems to start every sentence with 'So...' , sometimes dragged out to a 'Soooooooo....', like it's a ready, steady before they start their answer!! .. and don't get me started on 'I was like, she was like...' ...... Just wonder sometimes what's happening to our glorious language!! Have a great weekend and thanks for your support.
" @Moonfleet41 You're most welcome. And don't get me started on "So.."
Been in engineering for over forty years, been on many training courses and haven't come across a better explainer/trainer than yourself. Many thanks.
Thank you most kindly Sir, that is very generous of you, it is a pleasure to pass on information to those who appreciate it, as I'm sure you'll agree!
Delboy's Video's.. Are so great.. Helps me with work on my Triumph Thunderbird 900.. All My Brakes are working so well now.. Full rebuild, Disc & Pad, Front & Back.. Fantastic.. Cheers Delboy.. !
Thank you buddy, and I think you have the coolest user name on You Tube and reading your message, I think you're going to rather like the next project we're rolling in in a week or so!
Hi Delboy.. You may like this Video.. Cool as hell.
ruclips.net/video/UnE_xwW_JmA/видео.html Cheers Mate Steve
@@weddingdjstevedeehertfords9862 Cool as hell indeed mate.. Diggin with the Dog pound.!
Del, I love it. Without your videos I would be lost and broke. Thanks, your time and commitment are truly appreciated.
Thanks Johnny. you are very welcome mate.!
Details make everything, delboys attention to every little thing makes this videos so useful and entertaining. This is what you call quality content, simple as that.
Dude, u mentioned so many things I needed answers for in this vid.. to think I’ve done my breaks already and almost didn’t click on this one but glad I did because I can correct a couple things .. thanks!
Most welcome sir, Glad I could help!
Thanks for such a detailed and precise how-to video. Your level of detail is appreciated and Extremely impressive.
Thank you very much, am glad you enjoyed it.
@@Moonfleet41 I'm hoping you can help answer the following question. Is the EBC double-H sintered metal brake pads FA214 2HH The correct pads for the rear brakes on a 2020 Speed Twin? I can't find any literature confirming that it is. Thank you in advance for your help.
Outstanding demonstration. Many thanks. My Speedy 1050 rear brake is clearly in need of a clean up at least. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really appreciate your low-key explanations and completely thorough approach to the work being done. I wish all mechanics took the time to do it right. Regards from Southeastern Idaho.
Was watching ur vid thinking i wish i had a setup like that. I just bought a 2005 Bonnie with carbs, and to my surprise, no center stand, no spool holes. I've always done my own repairs, but every bike I've had, has had a center stand. I see the frame jack u have, but its so narrow, the frame, I get a little iffy.
I do for sure need a chain, so gotta make up me mind.
I'm so glad Triumph used stainless spokes. My old CB 750 Honda didn't. Always looked dull.
You do it right,for sure. Thanks.
Hi Peter, I know what you mean mate, it can be frustrating when there's no way to stand your bike upright... I generally tend to throw a little table jack beneath the frame, but it's not ideal and nor is it very secure... but here's a couple of links that may interest you from TEC Bike Parts, first is some bobbins that fit through your rear wheel axle, it's extremely simple to fit, takes literally less than 60 seconds to slap it through the axle and screw the ends on, and then you can lift the back of the bike with a paddock stand,... here's a link: www.tecbikeparts.com/product/paddock-stand-bobbins-axle-adaptor-bobbins-kit-to-fit-thruxton-scrambler-900cc-up-to-2016-aircooled-models/ (we have a video which incorporates this upgrade if you need it).
And also here is the general page as some aftermarket centre stands, as many of the early Triwww.tecbikeparts.com/products/shop-parts/triumph-aircooled/stands-triumph-aircooled/ummphs cam e with the mounting but no stand... maybe they will help you too...!
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks, i see. It's a threaded rod that goes through the axle and attaches to the spools,bobbins? I'm wondering if the bolt that comes with the bobbins would be sufficient. I just received a set I ordered with 8mm bolt? You have two people there in UK that have factory stands. But they want 200 dollars plus 100 shipping. If they were still making them or just had some in stock, I could buy it locally for 145 bucks. That's the center stand. I love this bike, but by the time I'm done I could have paid enough to let the service center work on it. Haha.
I'll check the sites u sent. Thanks again Del.
I have to say it has been great to see your video production quality continue to keep getting better all the time. I have watched for years now and I can really see all your hard work it makes a huge difference in the enjoyment of watching the vids and I thank you for the effort keep up the great work.
Thanks you so much for that glowing feedback my friend, we do take a lot more trouble over the post production now, it takes about 16 hours to fully edit and prepare the video for publication.. to each one is around 20 hours work end to end... and its great to know its appreciated.. i think with RUclips, its important to grow and improve over time if you want to retain your loyal viewers.. nobody wants to watch the same thing at the same level year in year out... Evolve or die aye..lol take care. Del.
Love these video's..As a novice biker and not had much to do with bike's in the past, I find them really informative.
Thank's Del
Hi Del, I'm reading you loud & clear; here/up North, UK. Your videos are some of the most watchable on RUclips.Keep up the good work; your tutorials are very much appreciated by my ZZR :-)
Thanks David, much appreciated mate..!
Thanks again for the awesome video as always, Del! @11:55 you recommended a HT white lithium grease on the sliding pins. I was referencing a service manual and it said 'Never use mineral-based grease (such as lithium or copper-based grease) in any part of the braking system or in any area where contact with the braking system is possible. Mineral-based grease will damage the hydraulic seals and dust seals in the calipers and master cylinders.' It also suggested lubrication with silicon-based grease (T2022021) for the mounting bracket pins. Should I just go with your choice as I always have? Thanks!
wemoto are the way to go, placed my order for 1 specific part for my bike on the phone & got delivered next day 👌
cheers mate just changed front n back brake pads ....no problems, keep up the good work
Another excellent video: you are a skilled mechanic, technician, artist and presenter.
Top content my friend. I've really enjoyed these Triumph vids and the time you put into production shines through. Well done!
Thanks Scott. much appreciated buddy.
Great video! Ive owned bikes all my life but am only just starting to do my own mechanicals. This was so helpful and informative. Thanks for all your hard work.
Thanks Geoff. Glad it was helpful!
I wish this video was 5 years ago. I had a lot of problems with my 125 varadero back then. knowledge is power.
Great video! Once again, teaching this old dog new tricks! About to retire so I'm looking forward to putting all the stuff I'm learning into practice. Fortunately my pro is just around the corner if I get too far ahead of myself! 🤓
Quality video with great tips I learned a ton today about how to do the job the right way. You're a class act and look forward to watching your other videos.
Thanks buddy, glad you enjoyed the video, it makes it all worth while when someone can make use of our work.. !
Thanks, your superb video just saved my rear caliper! …now for the front two..😀
Ah thank you for your kind words and your donation, very kind of you... good luck with the front!
What can I say? Your content and presentation just get better all the time. I'm running a similar set of jobs to you at the moment as I have a new bike to sort - so I'm enjoying the little details.
A new bike to sort... Do tell..!?
Moonfleet41 I'm going back in time as starting in some of your old videos. Well that's what it feels like. I've got a new commuter bike - a 650 Bandit S
The rain...is beautiful...i love the winter and the rain good video good bike and so good job from argentina buenos aires congratulations you're a master
Very informative channel for motorcycle fixing. The best so far. Easy moving forward and its easy to follow. Keep up the good work.
Great "How to" video as always. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills. I always bookmark and save your service videos.
Handy tool for brakes work is fairly common in northern North America as each 1/5 (750 ml) bottle of Crown Royal has a purple & gold flannel bag. These fit perfectly over calipers and with draw string easily attach to bike in ideal location.
Another amazingly informative video. One thing I didn't know was that you need to back off the tension on the torque wrench all the way. Thanks for informing us of that even though I'm doing all my own work on my bike I never knew that you could knacker the wrench by not backing it off. Thanks for that I've just had to buy all new tools over the past 12 months cos my garage got broken into and took all my tools I had everything I could possibly need now is have to start again. It was done on 1st April last year, not a very funny prank too pull. I'm still finding that some of the tools i used I haven't got and it's annoying that I have to go and buy it. I had about £2500 of tools taken. Thanks again for the video and keep doing what you do best, clear and consise instructions. Ride save bruv and the misses too.
Bloody hell mate, that's horrible... the worst thing of all is trying to remember everything you had so the insurance can replace it, not to mention the old sentimental tools, because the worse things is, they are the ones that the thieving scum will throw away as not worth anything... whenever I see second hand tools for sale in quantities, I often wonder where they have come from... hope you get it all square again soon fellah, and thanks for taking the time to write, all the best D&Px
Your videos teach me so much. Thank you, Sensei.
Glad you like them!
I love your videos! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Great tip about using the old brake pad to push in the pistons!
I can't stress enough how informative these videos are. The only thing I worry about now is my local bike garage loosing money because I'm doing the smaller jobs myself XD Crack on, fella' :D
Great video and sound and attention to detail.I think some of the heat you mention in the chain while riding comes from the final drive sprocket transferring heat from the engine also.Keep up the good work for the DIY's in your audience.
Great point, thanks for your kind input mate.. glad the videos are appreciated.
Hi Del. Just replaced both front discs on my tiger 955i. Got new bolts as you recommended. I have to say the genuine bolts from Triumph were cheaper than Wemoto. They also have caps to cover them. Great video. keep up the good work.
Hi Dan... that's because the factory bolts are cheaper quality mate..! Good to hear from you too..
Hi Del, mate your 'productions' just seem to get better and better! Quality explanations, advice and tips, close-up photography of the bits in question - it's all just really great. VERY useful point about checking the caliper carrier and how well it slides and the implications if it doesn't.
When are we going to see Delboys garage on the telly - soon I hope for your sake.
PS I really like the torque settings coming up on the screen !!!!!!
Del, even six years on this video is still very informative and useful, thanks.
Very welcome, thank you for your feedback..
Love your video man! Your attention to details is just just amazing! I also do my DIY jobs just like you! Till date I haven't taken MTB and motorcycle to any mechanic, because they charge a bit and the job they do is just laughable, they fix one thing and create more problems due to carelessness, at least in my nation. They bang the crap outta every component while fixing it.
Dear Delboy, love the content. I recently purchased an 05 Thruxton in racing yellow and you inspired me to do my own maintenance. It seems to need a bunch of work, but most recently I examined the rear breaks and saw uneven pad wear. Upon closer inspection, one of the pistons is tight and barely moves either out using the lever, or back in using my finger. Is there anything to do at this point to fix the offending piston prior to a full caliper overhaul, or am I looking at a full rebuild of this caliper?
Hi Kyle, good to hear from you and congratulations on the bike... and yes you can do a little maintenance on that that might free it off without having to strip it, just drop the caliper off and take the pads out, hold the free piston (perhaps with a G-clamp) and pump out the offending piston just a little way until you see clean metal, then with lots of hot soapy water and a toothbrush, scrub all round the piston 'gum line' and get it totally clean, then wash all that out with brake cleaner... if you have some, then a little rubber lube smeared round the piston, and then just work it in and out... you can wind it in with the clamp and pump it out a few times to free it off.... then wipe all clean and dry and re-install it. It should give you a stay over execution, at least a few months if you use it every day, but if it doesn't work, then stripping and re-building it certainly will... everything you need you should find in our Playlists!
@@Moonfleet41 Update, offending piston is still offending me! I did a thorough clean and grease, used the clamp method to slide it in and out a couple of times, but one still does not want to push out. I also flushed and replaced brake fluid. Still not popping out. Unless there is another item to troubleshoot that I am not thinking of, it looks like I'll need the caliper rebuild in the end. (the only other item I can think of is the brake fluid reservoir is weeping ever so slightly but I do not think it is bad enough to cause one of the pistons to stay..)
Should I just pop out the pistons, clean the caliper and seals, and then reassemble, or replace components as well? Or does it depend on how shot the pistons are...(mine are not that bad)
@@kalmanmandel9999 Hi Kyle, it sounds like this one's being stubborn..., firstly it'll be nothing to do with your weeping fluid, it's unrelated... I imagine it's the classic situation where road salt, which is always there even through the summer, gets in to your system, the heat from the brakes dries away the water and salt crystals form behind the dust seal and physically push it out of it's groove and it just jams the piston... no amount of working it in and out helps, like you say, best solution, pop both pistons out, hook the seals out, clean everything for all it's worth till it looks brand new and re-assemble it all from scratch... you won't need new seals unless you damage one, as you say, the system looks pretty good, but if you find you do once stripped, then Wemoto can get one on your doorstep next day... if you get stuck we've lots of videos on it.... best of luck with it!
Del I have so much to catch up on as usual great tips I learn something new with every video thank you so much 😊
Very welcome Nigel.. glad to help.
The production quality on this is incredible!
Thank You Matt, I'm very lucky to have Penny here to help - glad to know you enjoy!
great video Del, fantastic explanations to all the jobs you do, looking forward to the next installment, it gives riders the incentive to carry out mechanical and maintenance work on their own machines with confidence and a can do attitude, keep them coming....
Brilliant video mate, I need to check the rear caliper on my 92 Triumph trophy 900 as 1 pad (closest to the piston) has worn more than the other and the disc is rusty
Great video again. i have only one issue with the slinky clutch cable, the end adjuster has gotten a fair amount of surface rust building up in a couple of months. you may want to give them a coating of something. however the cable itself is great, so much smoother than my original. I would not have tried to change the cable before watching you.
Sounds like the same as my factory cable then, I don't swear by anything till I've tested it, and this will be it's test... we shall see how it fairs!
Awesome Del. Really nicely and clearly done - again!
Reminds me, I must go get some red rubber grease too.
Thanks buddy, yep, always pays to stay stocked up on yer sundries!
{p} Great video Del . It so pays off using copper slip on threads , saves a lot of heartache .
Cheers Pete.
Fantastic video as always , Thanks to you, I have successfully changed my rear pads and ordered some stainless steel pins I'll follow your video and do the fluid next, keep up the good work . I hope your channel is a financial success and you make a good living off it. PS I think you should get a softail slim next , [ no it's not because I have one] - OK it is.
Thank you for your kind words, and im glad the videos have been able to help you out, good luck with the fluids, and yeah, i'd love a Softail slim, what a classic icon and great to see Harley still making old school bikes that will never date.
Hi Delboy, love your work - very British style. Can you please comment on 1. The difference between brake pads that have one piece compared to those with multiple padlets with slots between them. 2. Should the backing plate of OEM pads be reused with aftermarket pads like EBC?.
Thanks for your time.
Very thorough. Thanks so much.
Thank you, for another video, excellent explanation, I liked it very much, congratulations.
You're very welcome!
The exhaust is back to its old color 😀
Thanks!
thanks delby you just made a job i was having probs with very simple
Great video as always, All the details we need. Muchas gracias !!! Gus
Yet another great video, reminded me that I've ran out of a few basics aswell. just a thought but have you considered doing a video on what tools and bits and bobs to have in the garage, been a few times where I've seen your videos and then I've had to go out any buy the tool or whatever to complete the job... just a thought 😊
Check out 'Delboy's Garage My First Tool Kit'... it's all there mate!
The tensioners on the bonnies are indeed fantastic bits. You can trust them to be within a couple mil accuracy.
Best DIY videos on RUclips!
Thanks so much!
Great job Del, will deffo have to do this with mine,,,, have had binding issue following the freeze ur nutz ride obviously salt. What's you opinion on remounting above ? Take care both.
Hi Tony... i think you mean the rear caliper.. there is a top mount for it... i think you need another brake hose to reach, not sure, and if you get your bike muddy and covered in road grime, then i guess it could help... but the dirt will still stick to it day to day which ever way it is..! it wont release you of the cleaning duties buddy..lol
Another great video but my shopping list keeps growing.
I changed my pad pins for stainless on the rear but the front one I ordered seemed to have a naff thread.
Fair play to square deal as he sent a replacement out straight away but again it only went in about half way then started to feel a bit tight so I took it out as I didn't want to knacker the thread in my calliper.
Phoned pro bolt and got one which goes in cleanly as the stock one dose but it's a race spec one with a small hex socket and a small nut on the end. They don't do a stainless one like the original one.
With this one you can't fit the little cap cover so I needed up putting the stock one in again.
If you find a stainless pin to fit the front when you do it please mention where you got it..
Hi buddy, invest in a tap & die set, and you'll find you can remedy all these problems in two minutes... as far as I remember, it's an M10 fine thread, and you will find that in any reasonable T&D set, then if you feel it's a little tight, you can wind it through a die and that will leave you with a perfect thread, and as they are stainless, there is no plating to worry about!
A lot of the tie this occurs because the threads are cut before the cap head hole is punched in it, and that spreads the thread... either way, the factories don't fit stainless ones, so they will always be aftermarket, and I use Squaredeals too!
Well timed as always Del, just been out and cleaned my callipers ready for summer! =)
Hi Del, thanks for this tutorial, quality video!!! Just changed the pads on my speed triple but I think will need to take down the calliper again and do it properly like you showed on here. Just a quick one, is normal that the disk is much hotter after replacing the pads? Is not glowing hot but hot enough so you can't touch it...thanks.
Hey Gregor.. Thanks for your kind comments, with your rear caliper, the disc should never be hot if you haven't used it.. that indicates that its binding and needs a clean up to free off the pistons.... but if you ride the bike normally, and use the brake as intended then it will get hot.. Best test is to go for a short ride, no more then a few miles, but in that time, dont touch the back brake... then when you get back, feel it to see if its hot.. if it is, then thats proof its binding and you must deal with it.. Sometimes fitting new pads can lead to this because they are thicker than the old worn out ones.. which means pushing the pistons back in further then before.. and if there is any brake dust or road dirt on those pistons, then when you push them back in that dirt will jam up on the seals and cause the caliper to bind.....follow like it says in the video, pump them out a bit then clean them all off... should be fine afterwards.. Hope that helps
That bike it bloody lovely! Love the wheels, looks great!
Thanks buddy.. its all Penny's doing.. she said how she wanted it, i just follow orders.. lol
Penny did a great job! :)
Hi mate what is you opinion on the 06 vs 10 Speed Triple?
Sadly i have never owned either Jeremy so couldn't really offer a worthwhile opinion..
Thanks for this video! Life saver
Another Great video, and a supplement to the work shop Manual...!
Im so glad i stayed up till 1 for this
another top video, would you ever consider doing bike reviews? I'd be very interested to hear your opinion on some of the gadgetry on bikes now ie quickshifter, wheelie control and so on. I've used your videos on many occasions although I don't comment alot I watch them all. thanks for taking the time to make excellent tutorials.
Hi mate... The rubbish that passes for "bike reviews" now days in YT is guys taking dealer demos out for an hour, parking them in Tesco's car park and talking mostly rubbish about unimportant things.... A bike review needs to be carried out over a few weeks, all conditions, and tested back to back against the immediate competitor in the market... the problem with this is, nobody will lend me a bike for three weeks while i road test and report on it.. and im not about to join the army of mumbling demo riders..lol plus the garage keeps us pinned these days too mate.! Thanks for your faith though, much appreciated.
Moonfleet41 keep doing what your doing mate! I get what your saying. There is a car reviewer who is best on YT in my opinion, he also loves bikes. I think you would enjoy his approach. His channel is called Harry's garage if you've never seen it before. cheers.
Because you lubed the threads on the brake pin, I would knock off 10% from the dry torque specification.
Incorrect my friend, all torque values are quoted for lubricated threads!
(P)Excellent how-to! I'm not sure there's anything I would do I my bike, that you don't have a video for. I'll definitely be referencing many of them in the future!
Like your instructables a lot! Very educating!
I wonder how you clean your hands afterwards.
Any tips there?
Thx,
Ed.
Washing up liquid mate...
I am so glad I have found your videos. They are giving me such confidence to 'have a go'. However, and I sincerely promise I am not taking the p... But does it matter if the cleaning solution you use is bio or non-bio. Would the 'bio' bit damage anything like the rubbers? Genuine question I promise!! Thanks.
Hi Daniel, Thanks for oyur kind words, im glad the videos have been helping you out... The rubbers in your braking system are pretty robust mate.. think of the the toxic poisons on the roads that coat them up every day.. road salt, oil and fuel residue, antifreeze residue, in fact any liquid that vehicles use can end up on the roads.. so no, dish soap is safe for the plates and cup you eat your food from.. so it'll be fine to clean your brakes with...
In previous videos you had used some copper slip on the outer side of the brake pads to prevent squealing, reduce vibrations. Why have you left the pads clean this time? Thanks for reply.
Solid mounted calipers tend to be the only type that squeal, and even then only on big discs at the front... the sliding mount on this caliper absorbs the vibration and thus the disc doesn't 'sing' as those vibes are transmitted across... also a small thick rear disc doesn't suffer from vibration either.. so no need on this bike,...
(P) Del, Pennys bike looks like new, them jobs really enhance the overall look mate. Ive sat with a smile just listening to the way you explain things, great job as always matey.
Thanks Michael, good to hear from you buddy..
Regarding my post yesterday. I have been looking at lithium grease, none I have looked at seems to be what I want or need can you please advise the make you use and where I can purchase from, much appreciated.
Another brilliant video. Thanks for sharing.
I've been meaning to ask... do the sintered brake pads lead to faster wear and tear of the brake rotors?
Yes they do my friend, most definitely, you can't change the laws of physics, and as the sintered pads have more physical grade against the disc, they will wear it more quickly... but in defence of that, with some intelligent use of your brakes, you will brake for less duration which then reduces the time that they are rubbing on the disc so overall the increase in disc wear is marginal... and in my personal view, it's a fair trade off for better, and more effective, braking.
HI, Great video as ever. I have been refurbishing my calipers (2002 Speed Triple) and it is you that has given me the confidence to do so. Just seeking your opinion, I used red rubber grease on my hanger sliders, as I thought it may be better on those rubber socks...or is white lithium grease (or copper grease) better...? Does it matter? Also, I used brake fluid on the new seals and pistons to "lube" them in, rather than red rubber grease - again...does it matter? Many thanks!!
Hi mate, fundamentally red rubber grease is a silicone based lubricant, designed purely to lubricate the interface between rubber and metal (or other rubber if it needs to)... and yet the pin sliders for your caliper is actually a metal to metal interface that just happens to have a rubber boot over it to keep the weather out, so the rubber grease won't do a brilliant job of staying put in between the metal pin and bore, even though it protects the rubber, best thing to use is white lithium grease... it's tough, sticky and heat resistant and it'll stay put, and also it won't hurt the rubber at all... (it's also used on chains with o-rings when they're first assembled at the factory)... never use an anti-seize compound, such as copper slip, to lubricate anything, it's technically not lubricant mate. It's there to prevent corrosion, among other things... and using it on a sliding pin that moves in and out constantly can actually lead to accelerated wear, because the copper particles in the compund will eventually wear in to it, even though they are soft.
@@Moonfleet41 bless you moonfleet for a dedicated reply. I'll disassemble and redo. Thank you!
Just bought OEM throttle cable from Wemoto - should have waited for this video and gone for the slinky glide! Although you do a lot of the same job on your channel, you impart different bits of knowledge each time, some small detail or tip, which makes it very worthwhile to see. Also of course repetition as a viewer helps embed the knowledge, as does seeing it done on different types of bikes. With the wheel alignment, would measuring the length of the pulley bolt sticking out work to double check, or am I being an idiot?
Hi mate, Sorry, "Measuring the length of the pulley bolt"... what pulley mate?, not sure what you mean..?
What brand of white lithium greases and red rubber greases do you prefer ?
Maybe a simple skills video on different types of grease and their uses? I have never seen anything explaining just that. thanks for the great tips.
Silicone grease on metal to rubber (caliper slide pins) and copper anti seize on metal to metal contact (where the brake pads sit on the caliper and where the pads touch the brake hardware)
@@alancuriel123456 @Otto is not My real Name @Moonfleet41 Delboy makes some great comedy videos with copper grease where he absolutley shellacs the brake pads, front and back, with copper grease!! lol I thought he was being serious but someone pointed out to me that it was one of Del's comedy videos on how to not use Copper Grease and it makes sense because no one would put so much grease on the back of break pads, especially modern brake pads that are built with anti sieze and anti squeal low noise pad backing and shims--but in these videos he put on so much copper grease it is coming off the back of the brake pads and getting all over the sides of the brake pads and would definitley have gotten all over the front of the pads and the rotors during the first ride! lol Yikes! Im looking at this and other videos to see if I can find his joke videos again because it's so funny! Apparently he has a few of them but my friend who told me about them didn't have links.. Great videos Delboy! Keep it up! lol
Were the pads the EBC Sintered (HH Type)?, I really want to upgrade the breaks on my T100, and I waiting to see how much improvement you get from your upgrade.
No need to wait buddy, have been using them for years, I can tell you, they are the right move,... the copper sintered material is more aggressive, presents more abrasion to the disc surface, therefore increased drag... the cost is a little more wear to the discs, but that is a price you have to consider for improved braking... but if you have the money, and can upgrade to EBC discs as well, then they are harder steel and will resist that wear being more resiliant, so an all round better solution, and why I'm doing mine!
Great video ! thank you .
Love your videos man, recently bought a thruxton 900 and wanting to learn more about my bike and your videos are very educational. BTW, what's your tire size? It looks dope.
Hi Waqas, thanks for your kind words... the back tyre is a 180/55/17 but you won't fit it on a standard rim, we had some custom rims made at 5.5x17 rear and 3x17 front... so we can now run sportsbike tyres!
Hey Del, I was changing my brakes and when trying to pump the pistons out to red rubber grease them, I must have pumped too much and the front piston fell out (and as it fell out there was some spillage, im guessing brake fluid). I shoved the piston back in, put the brakes on and mounted everything fully back on the rear brake, but now when I press the rear brake it isn't stopping. It kind of sounds like it's pumping air. Do you think I put a huge amount of air in the brake lines and bleeding them will solve my problem? Looking to hear back, thanks.
In the absence of lithium grease, i'd argue that due to the nature of electric charge, corrosion due to electron transfer and so on, ceramic high temp grease is superior to copper slip while being not that expensive either ( I think i paid 8€ for a 300gramm tube) in places where aluminium and steel touch.
Great tutorial 👍👍👍
Great stuff! Thanks for all your hard work! Ride safe
Heya Del. Is white lithium grease ok for rubber? Also, I've used copper slip on brake pistons when I ran out of red rubber grease mid rebuild but was later advised it might react with the rubber seals. Re-cleaned the whole bloody lot a couple of days later! I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on it mate.
I initially thought the same about the lithium, but, the stuff he used was also used on the DID rubber chain link seals - in this case should be safe on brake rubber.
You were right to remove the copper slip from brake pistons - stick with red rubber grease there, the copper slip can expand the rubber.
Copperslip does not corrode the rubber piston seals.. there are many armchair experts out there who will make up all kinds of rubbish based on half read information... truth is, not all rubber is the same, obviously, and the piston seals are designed to be resilient to extreme heat, all kinds of chemicals, and even acid...anything that would get onto your caliper... but a rubber children's party balloon will break if you sneaze on it... so its what kind of rubber you're talking about... The Lithium grease is great for the piston sides, its designed to coat up the chain 'O' rings, and they get hot all the time.... so that's the right answer buddy.. (until another keyboard expert comes along and wants to split hairs..lol)
Cheers for the detailed reply Del.
Hello Dell is it possible to improve the front brakes on a 2017 triumph bobber . Thanks Mike
Hi Del, I noticed when you did the rat bike pads you put copper grease on the back of the pads.. but you didn’t put any on these ones.. I’m about to change the pads on my Street Twin, just wondering if I should copper grease the back of the pads or not?
Did your brake squeal with the old pads Liam?.. if so, then use some and it'll stop it.. if not, then no need to bother mate. ! My bandit brakes squealed for a pastime.!
Delboy's Garage now that you mention it, the front did squeal a bit, I always thought it was the pads squeezing against the disc, I thought that perhaps the pads were dirty?
Hi Del as usual a great video. I'm wondering why you put copper slip on the caliper guide pins (rubber boots ) and no copper on the pad slip pins
thanks
Godwin
Not watching the video then..? I didn't put copperslip on the guide frame slide pins.. i put Lithium Grease... and i explained close up and in great detail exactly why i leave the pad slide pins polished and dry...
Its all in the video chap.. all you have to do is watch it through..!
Actually I did watch it all but with a lot of interruptions from my dog as it was before her walk and she was hyper !
My apologies! 😀
Aha, the old "Blame the dog ploy"... lol works for all kinds of things aye.. you know you can put them off buddy.. when its time to go, its time to go...lol
Hi Del,do you recommend to grease the back of the brake pad with copper grease? ty.
Does your bike have thin steel shims that fit between the pistons and the pads ? if so then NO... even then, do your brakes squeal when you apply them?.. if not, then NO, but if you have a problem with squealing brakes, then a little anti seize paste applied to the back of the pads SPARINGLY.. can reduce or even stop the squealing all together..
For what its worth buddy, its not "grease".. thats a name it seems to have gained somehow.. but its not for lubrication of any kind.. its a non ferrous paste to be applied between metal surfaces to stop them corroding.... its actually no good as a lubricant, it can cause wear to rubbing parts. so only use it as an "anti seize" compound, never as a lubricant.. its simply a misnomer that people call it copper grease..! Hope that helps.. good luck.. Del.
I love your videos bro. Thanks
Thank you Sir!
Is that the Sun rear sprocket +1 rear tooth that you put on the bike? Also, was the chain a perfect fit out of the box or did you have to add remove any links to make it fit?
Standard sprockets on the bike, factory gearing... and yes the chain fits out of the box because its the right chain for the bike.. order the right one, and they're send you the one that fits buddy.!
Awesome! Thanks for responding back so quickly
I love your videos! Very informative and I use them all the time. Where can I get some Stainless Pins for my calipers? Or what size would I be looking for? Thanks in advance. Cheers!
Hi buddy, I assume you are tlking about the brake pad retaining pin?? If so, I just look them up on Ebay and find the right ones... they will all be one size so just order them for your bike ...
Much appreciated!
I've just replaced the rubber booties on my rear caliper as they were about twice the size of the new ones. There's plenty of people saying copperslip swells the rubber? Is this something you've come across?
No buddy, not psecifically with copperslip, rubber swells in the presence of most chemicals, petrol on fuel tap seals, the gasket in your derby cover, sump plug o-rings, they all become soft and puff up, but will shrink back again when they dry out... use rubber lube inside as this doesn't contain the same chemicals as oil...
Hi delboy I just wanted to ask if kindly, am due to change my tyres and I am confuse of which ones to get,if advisory,I have a susuki gsxs 1000 and I wanted a sporty looking tyres for my bike, so I want something that last long for road and touring in a long journey if possible many thanks
So I did my rear brake pads exactly like you said, they still feel a little squishy, what should I do next?
If they're 'squishy', then you obviously still have air in the system, perhaps trapped in the caliper, try bleeding them through again and, perhaps, depress the lever overnight which can firm up the system a great deal by eliminating any micro-bubbles... also, when you bleed don't open the bleed valve any more than 1/8-1/4 turn or you will drag air in to it as you bleed. It's just practice mate, good luck with it.
The chain slack (owners manual) specified takes into account the rider/compression: mine measured 50 mm (limits 45 - 55 mm). My MOT centre made my chain slack an advisory!