Ok, I did this hack on my brand new DeWalt 12" 20 volt saw. The only leak was at the oil cap. I installed an o ring on the recessed area of the cap. It has held bar oil for two days now and not leaked. Thanks for this video, it prevented a problem before it started!
Just did this! Used the black RTV. It was delivered today and i did it right away before putting oil in. Thanks for the guidance! To whoever is reading this, this job is easy if you pay attention and follow his guidance. Definitely worth it.
I just did the same thing yesterday. I had some issues with the o ring at the cap. It was dry and popped out. A little mineral oil and it seems to have done the trick.
Just did this last night. Worked like a charm! thanks! the oil leak was getting worse and worse as time went on. Loved the saw but have to carry it around in a bag because it would dump half a tank of oil in my car by the time i got to where i needed to be. No more leaking at all. Left it over night.
YES, IT WORKED!!!!! I can't thank you enough. While these shouldn't leak at all, it's a great little chainsaw and with having other dewalt tools, I wanted to try this so I didn't hate it so much. I've tried the silly extra O ring mod others "claim" fixes the leak, (not sure how, but ok), and yeah it kept leaking. Had a hunch that the molding parts were an issue but wasn't confident enough to take everything apart. Following this VERY WELL MADE tutorial made is soooo easy. Disassembly and reassembly is only time consuming, not hard. Anyways, I threw on some blue gasket maker on all the bits shown in the video, though I applied a bit more on the outside of those bits once I installed them back into the tank, just for good measure. Filled up the tank, waited overnight, checked today and not a single drop came out. So much for everyone saying "all chanisaws leak".... well this one shouldn't, it's just poor manufacturing. Now it doesn't leak at all. Good grief, what a mess this thing used to create. bottle of bar oil will last forever now, lol! Great video and thanks again!
That's Awesome and great to hear! I didn't see this fix in any other vids so I made this one. I really like this saw, but the leaking was a big PITA. Mine hasn't leaked since I did this. Thank you for your comment, it made my day!
@@peppermoongarage Hi! I'm trying to do the same thing to my pole chainsaw. Did you open it again to make sure it worked? Because I used Permatex Permashield (the Hylomar Blue replacement) and the oil desintegrated it and it also doesn't adhere well to the nylon plastic tank. I can just roll it off after 24 hours. I waited 24 hours also to put oil back in.
@@cbalf15 Yes I did. It's Permatex Ultra Black code 59803. I put just a little but on the underside of the part of the rubber seal that makes contact with the tank. Then inserted the rubber seal and then put a nice 1/4 inch large bead half on half off the seal and spread it delicately with my finger making sure not to thin out the center of it. Worked like a charm. Oh but first I roughed up that part of nylon tank with a 100 grit sand paper making sure to put something to prevent anything from entering the tank. Finally I cleaned that part of the tank with isopropyl alcohol to remove any oil residue.
I was hesitant to buy this saw at first because of the leaking oil complaints but luckily I found this video and decided to pull the trigger on the saw. I went ahead and followed this easy fix before I put any oil in it and haven't had any leak issues. lt s a nice, light duty saw that is extremely convenient when you don't feel like dragging the gas saw out. Great job on this video, I highly recommend anyone who buys this saw watch this video and go ahead and nip the oil leaking issues in the bud from the start.
Nice job proactively preventing the leak. I agree that they are a great light duty saw. It won't replace a gas saw for larger jobs. I find it super handy to take camping and cut smaller rounds for firewood.
After experiencing the leak on my brand new saw and having seen your video I chose to send it in for warranty repair hoping enough time had passed that Dewalt would fix it. They sent it back just as it was and said that " The oil leak was designed into the system to make sure bar was oiled all the time😂 Came back covered in residual oil I couldn't get out of tank during Shipping..
Thanks for the great fix. I complained to DeWalt, got the same, “empty the tank after use” B.S. After some back and forth discussion, they sent me a brand new one! Both are getting this fix.. sad that they come faulty from the factory. All my other DeWalt tools have been awesome but on this saw, they need to do better.
subscribed. this is the most comprehensive and detailed fix ive ever used on youtube. One commentor said you can leave the brake spring assembly on, and he is right. I took the left hand threaded nut off the sprocket, pulled the brake pin, and left everything else in. Thanks for this video man. Truly is a massive help for the community.
after 2 weeks of doing this fix, and keeping it totally full of oil and sitting... zero leaks. the only dribble i had is now from the oiler nipple with the thicker oring to seal inside the clamshell half for the chain oiler, all because i spun the chain by hand lol thanks again for showing the fix, now i love my lil dewalt limber.
Amazing video! I have the older DeWalt 40v, DCCS690 and it's been leaking for years and I just accepted it. I found this video, bought the black RTV and did this fix last week. The DCCS690 is essentially the same process with some small differences. Your video gave me the confidence to fix this myself. The hardest part was getting the years of debris cleared out as I've never given in a proper clean (in over 6 years ha). I also discovered I need a better air compressor... anyhow, THANKS for taking your time to share your expertise. It's been about a week and I now have zero oil leaks.,
What a great video and it gave me something to do during this cold weather. I've had this saw a long time but never did anything about it leaking. I did all of the sealing on the tank and also found that the o-ring had to be installed on the tank before installing back in the saw. Then it is squeezed just enough between the case and the tank to make a good seal between the case and the tank. If you just put it on the cap or just set it in there it won't make the proper seal. I also put a slightly larger o-ring on the tube that attaches to the case to make a better seal in there also. I turned the tank every which way looking for leaks before installing it and no leaks were observed. I do wish I would have sealed better around the weep hole for the bar and chain but I'll do that if I take it apart again. I also think that there is too much oil coming out to the bar which is why there is leakage when we get done with the saw. I'm thinking if I take it apart again I'll I may put a smaller piece of tube inside the feed tube to restrict the flow a little. The only leak now is what is left over after use not really from any other point.
Nicely done video!!! Completed oil leak fixes on DCCS620. I also applied sealant - Ultra Black under the edge of each component (the cap insert, the rubber plug where oil pick up tube goes through, and rubber vent plug). I smeared the Ultra Black under the edge or lip to fill the area under the lip of each component. I let the Ultra Black set for a bit and then pressed each component on. This approach keeps the white tank clean. SECONDLY, there is a nipple with a small o-ring on it. This plastic nipple is at the end of the oil pickup tube. The o-ring is way too thin and oil will push pass it. Go to Ace Hardware and get a 5mm inner diameter, 9mm outer diameter, with 2mm thickness rubber o-ring and place on nipple. Apply coat of bar oil on o-ring. Many people are unfortunately forgetting this additional fix. With thicker o-ring, nipple tightly presses through bar cover cylinder shaped housing. Gasketing these 4 places will fix the leaks. Almost forgot to mention: you don't need to cut the casing label. I used a 1/2 inch chisel to lift one half cleanly. A razor blade may work too but chisel fit it perfectly. Label restuck perfectly after reassambly.
I store it on its side, oil cap up, with very little oil in it. Then you avoid all the areas noted in the video where it might leak. Stays dry. Also don’t have to totally drain it, if you put only a little oil in and use what you need for the job.
@@marynagy8072 Same here, I found storing it on it's side (on a piece of cardboard, usually from an Amazon shipping box) there might be some residual drips, which the cardboard catches.
That is it!!! I struggled with that leaky saw for 2 years, tried the Oring fix... nada. Did this and that was the end of the leak!. Thanks so much for posting this, along with the step by step instructions for those of us not necessarily mechanically minded!
Well done sir. Root cause analysis while the tank was out, periodic testing to show gasket seal was the fix, great explanation on getting everything back together and operational as designed. Thank you for that thorough and well thought presentation. I’m a subscriber now, and I don’t usually do that. However, I see this as a vote of approval for your time and effort and as such was happy to sign on. Bravo.
I was looking for a video of the breakdown/disassembly for this exact reason! I found this the perfect reference video and followed your instructions. So far the leak is resolved! Thanks for the content!
You need to send your video to DeWalt. If you don't, I will. I just ordered one of those saws and every review said they leaked oil. But they said every brand leaked oil so I ordered it anyway. I hate to take apart a brand new saw to fix this problem but I may have to if DeWalt has not fixed the problem already. Thanks for the video!!!! I saved it so I can put everything back together after the tear down. Have a good one.
I will, nothing yet. Great video. I should be getting mine in a couple of days. I am going to put oil in it first to see if they have fixed their problem before I take all apart.
I recently purchased one of these, then it leaked everywhere. After finding this video, no more leaks. An $8.00 and an hour investment and it’s fixed. Thanks.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. I also found that the O-ring at the end of the oil feed to the bar was too small. The white plastic piece that pushes into the case for the oil feed was so loose it just fell out. This means when the oil is being pumped a lot of it goes straight into the casing. A bigger O-ring provided a nice snug fit and no more oil coming out the case bottom after use.
Thanks for this video tutorial! Was easy to follow. Turns out my saw's primary leak was most likely the small o-ring on the plastic fitting that slips into the casing (oil port for the chain). The o-ring was smashed off to the side and deformed. Got a new one at the local Ace. Fittings at the tank looked okay but I sealed em anyway using RTV. Took the gear case cover off as someone suggested and redistributed the grease. Appeared to be some sort of graphite grease and was heavy in some places and absent in others. I'm sticking with the original bar and chain until the chain wears out then will upgrade. Thanks again!
I just did this to my brand new saw. I managed to lift the label you cut so it is still in one piece. On my saw there was a seal between the tank and the black fill tube. I put black silicone there anyway, just to give over kill. The vent and top of the tank were rather tight, so i did not put sealant there. After the silicone dries, I'll report my findings. So it does appear, Dewalt may have made a few changes from the older saws. As an added plus, Harbor Freight has a t-handle torx set with long enough shafts to reach all of the screws just fine.
Pro Tip: it can be hard to find Hylomar blue in a lot of places. In the UK they use hylomar like a comma, but here in the US, (Maine anyway) its not available. The good news is that Permatex makes the stuff too, but they call it "Permatex Permashield Gasket Dressing 85420" - its oil and fuel resistant, comes in an orange tube, available at any auto parts place. Also, be careful when you screw the cap back on the tube. I don't know if the compound breaks down the plastic of the cap or what, either way, leave it loose or it will crack and the stuff will dry out.
Just got mine in the other day. This is the first thing I did to it right after it came out of the box. Never going to be more oil free for creating a good seal on the tank and adapter was my thought process. Went with the Ultra Black. Looking forward to having this saw as my trim saw to supplement the main gas saw. Thanks for the vid.
I just did the same. I didn't want to take the chance that it might leak and have to clean the oil out so I did it before any oil touched it. And I didn't have any parts or screws left over thanks to your detail and good filming. Thanks!
Finally somebody who knows it not the “missing O ring”! I also had an RX8, I guess that’s why we are able to problem solve so well. I fixed mine by too but it developed the leak after use again. I will try the sealant this time and it should stay fixed I would assume. Seems like the adapter seal loosening with use and the sealant will prevent. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you. As an RX8 guy, you may know how great the Hylomar is. It should stay pliable in the presence of the bar oil and still hold a seal. I also considered filing down the rough parting line, but that may cause more problems than it solves. No leaking so far other than off the bar&chain. DeWalt really over-lubes their bars.
@@peppermoongarage I would gently file down the mold seams....that's a real factory screw-up..cheaply made and fit. As easy as plastic is to file, might even try a stone just to make sure it goes slowly.
@@dwellner502 Anywhere the surface isn't exactly smooth, you'd want to file or stone to flat. The surface should be like a table top.....then you don't sweat the gasket or sealer.
Great Video, I was able follow it easily. My saw now leaks less, but does still leak around the filler cap. The factory O ring is present and looks fine. The cap itself has a broken wing on the bottom, so it only engages 1 of the locking lugs. Have a new cap on order, so hopefully that fixes it. Extremely disappointed that the saw leaks so badly. Neither of my Stihls leak much, and certainly not from around the fill cap.
Thank you for the comment. Those "wings" on the cap actually compress the cap against that inner square O ring that the sealant goes on. A new cap should help out. Please let us know if it helps or not.
You were correct, of course. With the new cap installed, there's zero leaking after a day of sitting with a full oil tank. The replacement cap seems a little more snug, or tighter locking than I remember the original ever being, but I'm not sure how long it was broken. Thanks again. for the great video!
Thanks! Excellent video and sound quality! My saw has the same issue and I'll be following your advice. Maybe I won't have to cleanup the drip pan so often. LOL
I just finished this process and it took way longer than it should have, probably because I am cautious and take time to clean and examine everything. Here are some things I found. I don't see how these tanks could NOT leak. There is such a gap where the tank seam is at the filling port hole. I treated the other openings with Hylomar as well. I took everything apart, blew all the crud out with an air compressor and de-greased with GUNK and cleaned the tank and tubes with water after de-greasing. I left nothing to chance concerning whether or not I am going to get a good seal this time around. Absolutely the most aggravating thing about this entire process was getting that brake spring back in place and under compression. OMG, I about lost it a few times....and I take things apart for a living. I did take the cover off the transmission and move a bit of that grease on to the gears. I took a lot of photos and had all my parts laid out on a clean work surface with a disposable white 36" x 32" pad on top to absorb oil etc. In my particular saw, it has leaked from day 1 and I've owned it for 4 to 5 years now. Hopefully this gives me some relief from that nightmare. I purchased a DeWalt 28" plastic toolbox to keep it in and lined the bottom with towels. Another thing I noticed was that the little port that attaches on the outside of the tank to two prongs, also has an "O" ring on it. Mine was mashed flat and not doing anything to make a seal. I replaced from a new box of "O" rings I just bought. There are 2 flexible tube in there. One is before the pump, going into the tank. The other one is after the pump and mating to the port feeding oil to the chain. The tube on the tank side was getting a bit stretched so I trimmed a 1/4 inch of the stretched tubing off for a tighter fit. Since my saw has some age, I assume this will happen to all these eventually. Maybe some auto grade rubber line can be used if I ever have to go back in there for any reason. One thing I did do was remove that 2nd "O" ring on the fill port that many said solved the problem. The downside to adding that 2nd ring was that it add more material into the cap seal/opening interface. What it has done is start to warp the two hooks on the fill plug itself. I'm going to buy an extra one from Amazon now that my plug is deformed. I will update when I know if this solves my leaking issues.
I originally tried that "missing O-ring" as well and my oil cap splayed out as you described. It's holding in there for now, but I'll probably end up replacing it at some point.
@@clarrisalee1660 Yes, so far so good. No leaks inside the DeWalt toolbox I store it in. I lined it with paper towels to absorb leaks but there are none. I call this fix a SUCCESS.
Thanks for the video. Got my saw 3 weeks ago, filled the bar oil and within 12 hours the whole tank of oil leaked out around the front handle under the tank. Did your fix with RTV silicon which solved the issue. Now we need a way to regulate the oiler, I've never seen a saw puke so much oil from the oil system. I can hold the saw over a log and turn it black from the bar oil spray off the bar not to mention the oil slick running out the chain cover.
@@peppermoongarage A thicker Stihl oil, not sure of the name, which has helped with oiler leak in my gas saws during summer months. My Echo leaked excessively until I switched to the Stihl oil.
OK, you should be good with a name brand oil that is actually bar oil like you mentioned. Sometimes people run regular motor oil, new or used, and that could make bar oil consumption greater. Post back if you discover a way to regulate the bar oil flow.
I admire you for tearing the saw down and fixing it properly! I just know myself enough that something would not go back together right and I’d be worse off 😂… Think I’ll just keep it in a case with shop towels.. I’m a beaten man!
Open the gearbox while you have the saw apart. The gears inside are bone dry. There is a little dab of grease tucked in the corner where it will not touch the gears. I greased them myself. Without lube they'll wear out quickly. Good video. It helped me re-assemble the chain break. Oh...no leaks now. Thanks
It's been a few months since I got a Dewalt 20 V chainsaw and I tore the saw down and fixed the leaks before they started leaking. Since then when I use the saw if I place the saw down on the ground (bottom down) there is a small puddle of oil under it after sitting for 10-15 minutes under the chain drive spocket area . I believe that it's due to the over aggressive oiling system because this thing goes through a lot of oil for the cutting that I do. I used to own and use a Sthil 044 with a 2' bar back when I was logging and that saw didn't use half as much oil. So when I store the saw I have it in position with the bar down, cover on at the 6 o' clock position and then there is no oil to clean up 🙂.
I got one a week a half ago and tore it down before it saw any oil. I went with the ultra black, resealed the vent, supply tube and the filler tube reassembled it and never got a drop 💧 of oil out of it. I know it's only a 10 1/2" cut but I was cutting 12" trees NO PROBLEM. Thanks again for the video it was very instrumental in tearing it down and reassembly 👌👍🤜🤛🤙
LMAO... If I pulled it apart like that it would never go back together. Great video and now I am dreading doing mine but I guess I will need to in order to fix it. Thanks for the video Excellent job.
Hi, I fortunately watched your video before buying... I almost turned away from Dewalt but I have a lot of Dewalt 5ah batteries, so I kept coming back to this one since my friend has 4 other brands of electric and they all leak... SO I hade the pleasur of doing mine with you and this video on brand spankin newone, no oily gunk or oily wood residue... Thnaks a lot, apart from re inserting the huge black spring, it all was easy and I hope to see this chainsaw clean enough to carry around without bagging it...
Thank you. I'm glad the video helped. It's a fairly simple fix. Like you mention, the investment is in the battery/chargers so it's ideal to stay with the same system. I now have the DeWalt 3/8 impact, inflator/compressor, chainsaw, string trimmer, hammer drill/driver all using the same 2 chargers and 4 batteries.
@@peppermoongarage the Stihl 2 in 1 also sharpens the guide notch... important or else the guide remains higher than the blade (shortened by filing) and keeps the blade flying over the wood instead of biting in it... a few good videos on the subject on YT...
Excellent video that shows all the steps. My saw is leaking oil too, but much quicker now than when I bought it. I'll have to take it apart to see what's going on.
So it's safe to say it's the bar oil tank reservoir .... It looks to me if the manufacturer didn't put the seem right down the middle where the vent and plug are.. it would never leak...correct?... I Wonder if they make a After market or a original tank that does not have the seem in the middle of the ports.?... Thank you for the video
Yes, the parting line is in a bad location. I'm not aware of an aftermarket tank, but that seems like a good idea if someone were to make one. Thanks for watching.
DeWalt may have upgraded these. I ordered the 20v chainsaw and was about to take it apart and apply gasket seal but had to get a job done. About an hour of continuous work and I had zero oil leak. Put the saw on a countertop with paper towel and zero leaks on the paper towel. I've checked out the outside and removed the chain cover and do not see any oil leaks. Maybe it's just not enough use to see the issue.
Great video. I took the two back I bought and got a Makita. Sure I’m capable to do the fix but why should I need to? I even called Dewalt and they told me it’s normal and I should drain the oil out after use ! No plan for a redesign as it was designed that way!
I agree, this should not need to be fixed - DeWalt should have better quality control. Draining the oil out is not a good solution. I'm already invested in the 20v DeWalt battery system, so I really wanted to get a solution to this leak. My saw is still not leaking after this fix.
I will just deal with the tiny leak, this little saw is a damn animal, capable of any size job even cutting a notch to fit the saw in lol, the real key is keeping that chain super sharp
Brilliant video many thanks! Followed it to the letter and no leaks. So simple to do with your help, many thanks! Sadly Dewalt still haven’t changed the tank design on the DCM565N here in the UK, but thanks to you we can adapt and overcome!
just did mine, i could see the imperfections on the square oring that is between the adapter and the molded tank. smoothed the tank lip gently with razor blade, rtv both sides of square oring and reinstalled. i also found the oring to the oiler nipple was not even making contact with the case half so i swapped it for one that seated snug and sealed. no mo reeky reek.
Wow. You have the skill of a brain surgeon. My 12" dewalt chainsaw is not pumping oil out onto the chain . 1st option was to try an find the oil hole & unblock it from sawdust. Hopefully then I won't have to deep dive like you did and examine the oil pipe from tank to chain. TY
Thank you. There is an oil passage that goes from the saw body and into the chain bar. A lot of time the passage in the bar gets plugged up with sawdust and needs to be cleaned out.
I put very little oil in it, less than half, and store it laying on its side with oil cap up, and it does not leak at all. I would never try this. It would completely spoil the manufacturer’s warantee and I highly doubt I could follow these directions as accurately as necessary to make this new machine function again. Thanks for examining everything.
Does anyone know why the DewaltR&D team doesn't know about this? It's strange that we are having to improve on the design ourselves. Brilliant video buddy.
I'm sure they do know, but choose to not spend the money to manufacture it correctly. It's cheaper to just put a statement in the manual - SMH, FP. At least it's not an expensive fix if a person is comfortable doing it.
Thanks a lot for this video! Very thorough and best of all, it worked! Had a few rough spots - getting the whole safety bar apparatus back correctly in place was difficult for me but I finally got it back together. Now I feel like I have the chainsaw Dewalt should have made in the first place. Anyway, great job!
I just used this breakdown, not for the leaks, but just to understand the breakdown process and reassembly of the parts. I wasn’t getting any chain oil to the chain (I bought this from someone who used it once and put it on the shelf). The tube running from the oil pump to the bar was all plugged up with a gummy substance (like old linseed oil) and I needed to take the spring out of it and clean it and the tube with a thin wire and some light solvent and then soapy water. Did the whole thing in a couple of hours and have a new chainsaw for very cheap…
The oil seems to get trapped in the case with nowhere to go. At 17:50 in this video it shows a low spot in the tank and casing where there is a dead spot. I can't help but think a person should drill a weep hole in the bottom and then the oil would atleast have a way of draining at a precise spot instead of filling up and leaking through the entire saw. It could even be tapped or plugged. The saw could be stored with the hole over a baby food jar or Tupperware container.
Just an FYI Permatex makes a Gear Oil RTV gasket maker that is designed to work in oils and won’t break down. I use it on differentials etc and it works great!
Great video! How on earth do you remember where everything goes!!??? On the plus side you just convinced me that it’s ok to buy this saw, seems to be the only real complaint I see in the bad reviews so it must be good otherwise, thanks so much!
I have one that I want to use but I can't get the cap to the oil reservoir to open. It won't turn to the unlock position and I am worried that I will put a little too much muscle into it and end up breaking the cap.
brand new saw, yet to use or add oil. Given hand tremors & decreasing vision, any options to ship my product to accomplish this service, for a fee? Perhaps you, Pepper Moon? Perhaps Dewalt dealer? I would appreciate any options. Txs.
Great video, but I doubt that I will bother. For as much as I use the saw, it just isn't worth it. And I really wasn't surprised that it leaked; every chain saw I have ever used has leaked. Btw, I like your camera.
I've just bought the 18v kit model down from this. Really great chainsaw, but why don't deWalt include a screw/knob etc to regulate the flow of chain/bar oil?! Durr! Anyway awesome vid, cheers legend! :)
I thought about that but wasn't sure I could get it flat enough. The parting line on my saw is more of a void than a protrusion. If you try it, report back and let us know how it went.
Dang, if the oil leak bothered me that much, I’d throw it away before I went thru all that! If I did manage to put the thing back together, it would probably polish instead of cut. What a nightmare, you’d think DeWalt would have caught that with a thorough quality check and now that they are aware, address it at some point! I was about to buy one from Home Depot!
The leaking is starting to annoy me so it's about time to crack into it! If i take apart the gearbox, any suggestions for the grease to put on those gears?
Thanks for the great detailed video ... I just bought this Dewalt chainsaw from my local hardware store on clearance; read the reviews about the oil leak problem, thought I prevent than fix. Could you use alternative sealants? I am from Australia and the Hylomar non setting blue sealant is difficult to source ... I have some Permatex FORM-A-GASKE NO.2 SEALANT - do you think that would work also? Many thanks - Ethan
Yes, the No.2 should be fine - it's non-hardening and oil resistant. I used to use that before I started using the Ultra Black which I find to be easier to apply. The Hylomar is great if you can get it (Link in the description), even if it is a bit spendy. Reply back either way and let us know how it works.
Just bought one of these. No leak when not being used. Just when I am using it, it leaks oil from the saw side when being used.is this normal? Is it suppose to just spray oil on the blade?
Great tear down reference video. The internals look very similar to the 1st Gen 16” flexvolt chainsaw. Probably not surprising. Both my 12” and 16” leak while stored. The additional o ring solution did not work for me either. Thanks for sharing perhaps I give this a try in the future. Cheers from 🇨🇦
@@UEDSquadron nope both saws still leak but I haven’t tried paper moon’s solution yet. My 1st gen 16” also stopped pumping bar oil. I replaced the pump (that’s how I learned there are two different 16” versions) but it has weak flow.
Quick question , could the brake spring assembly be left in place if the sprocket drum were removed first ? Thanks , a very good instructional you've done here .
Yes. Just did my 16" saw and left complete spring mechanism in. Still have to take long pin and brake handle off to complete separating the two half's but you don't have to take out the rest of the spring assembly. Leave brake handle in the off position (towards handle) before removal to be able to take gear out.
Hi I’ve watched you video a few times and I’m attempting to do this fix, nearly have it opened up, all the screws are out , wouldn’t open went back to your video to see what I did wrong, it was the nut on the sprocket, but when I try to turn it, the sprocket keeps moving and I’m not strong enough to hold it, I tried using the drill( thinking a sudden quick turn would loosen it but no, so I’m not sure what to do now, my son is not available to help today so I thought I would try here, I’m a 69 year old woman that just doesn’t have finger strength lol Any help would be appreciated😊
Hi, that sprocket bolt is a left hand thread which is the opposite of a regular fastener. So to loosen it, turn it the way a normal bolt would tighten. Does that help?
Thank you for the response, I did know that it was left loosens and right tightens, I got it apart by using a pipe wrench to keep the sprocket under the bolt still while I turned the bolt, I sealed everything on the tank(well I thought I did) and put it back together, at first there was minimal leaking, thought that might have been from residual oil in the body of the saw, but after using the saw it started leaking even worse than before, and now after cleaning the saw of all the oil soaked sawdust, went to put the bar on and the chain tightening knob won’t turn, so this will be the second saw that I will be returning, which is sad, because I love this saw, it works great at cutting up to 7-8 inch limbs with no issues(well it did)😕
I just rewatched your video, and will take it apart again, to see why the knobs not turning, and if it’s fixable, re-seal it again exactly the way you did😊 Thank you for this video
You can smooth out the seam lines where a seal is needed with a deburring tool or curved blade exacto knife and sand it a little bit afterwards. Sometimes you can smooth seams over quickly with a soldering iron in the key places where seals are, making the original seals work as intended. I fix shitty gas cans this way quite successfully so their spouts don’t leak.
Thanks for the quick reply. I might just rip it open before I even add oil into it. Last thing I want is oil going all over my garage floor. Thanks for taking the time to make a vid and show us all how it's done. Much appreciated!
In the manual, it says you’re supposed to empty the bar oil tank every time you’re finished using it I think that would be much easier than taking that all apart and try to fix the leaks
That’s true, but have you tried emptying the oil tank? It makes a mess and you’ll most likely get sawdust and/or dirt in your oil container along with the drained oil.
@@peppermoongarage I just blow the crud off with a can of “compressed gas air” and use a funnel, relatively painless. Use it to clean the filler cap area before filling to keep the crud from falling in. Also blow the crud away from the cooling vents on the motor at each battery change and clean all of the battery contacts at that time. Seems to help with a number of issues. It can also help with cleaning the debris that collects under the cover.
Ok, I did this hack on my brand new DeWalt 12" 20 volt saw. The only leak was at the oil cap. I installed an o ring on the recessed area of the cap. It has held bar oil for two days now and not leaked. Thanks for this video, it prevented a problem before it started!
Nice!
Just did this! Used the black RTV. It was delivered today and i did it right away before putting oil in. Thanks for the guidance! To whoever is reading this, this job is easy if you pay attention and follow his guidance. Definitely worth it.
I'm glad it worked out for you. It's a cheap and relatively easy fix.
@Pepper Moon Garage Indeed it is sir. Thanks again.
I just did the same thing yesterday. I had some issues with the o ring at the cap. It was dry and popped out. A little mineral oil and it seems to have done the trick.
Just did this last night. Worked like a charm! thanks! the oil leak was getting worse and worse as time went on. Loved the saw but have to carry it around in a bag because it would dump half a tank of oil in my car by the time i got to where i needed to be. No more leaking at all. Left it over night.
Nicely done!
YES, IT WORKED!!!!! I can't thank you enough. While these shouldn't leak at all, it's a great little chainsaw and with having other dewalt tools, I wanted to try this so I didn't hate it so much. I've tried the silly extra O ring mod others "claim" fixes the leak, (not sure how, but ok), and yeah it kept leaking. Had a hunch that the molding parts were an issue but wasn't confident enough to take everything apart. Following this VERY WELL MADE tutorial made is soooo easy. Disassembly and reassembly is only time consuming, not hard.
Anyways, I threw on some blue gasket maker on all the bits shown in the video, though I applied a bit more on the outside of those bits once I installed them back into the tank, just for good measure.
Filled up the tank, waited overnight, checked today and not a single drop came out. So much for everyone saying "all chanisaws leak".... well this one shouldn't, it's just poor manufacturing. Now it doesn't leak at all. Good grief, what a mess this thing used to create. bottle of bar oil will last forever now, lol!
Great video and thanks again!
That's Awesome and great to hear! I didn't see this fix in any other vids so I made this one. I really like this saw, but the leaking was a big PITA. Mine hasn't leaked since I did this. Thank you for your comment, it made my day!
@@peppermoongarage Hi! I'm trying to do the same thing to my pole chainsaw. Did you open it again to make sure it worked? Because I used Permatex Permashield (the Hylomar Blue replacement) and the oil desintegrated it and it also doesn't adhere well to the nylon plastic tank. I can just roll it off after 24 hours. I waited 24 hours also to put oil back in.
@@JazzyScatdid you find another sealant that adhered better? If so, what did you use?
@@cbalf15 Yes I did. It's Permatex Ultra Black code 59803. I put just a little but on the underside of the part of the rubber seal that makes contact with the tank. Then inserted the rubber seal and then put a nice 1/4 inch large bead half on half off the seal and spread it delicately with my finger making sure not to thin out the center of it. Worked like a charm. Oh but first I roughed up that part of nylon tank with a 100 grit sand paper making sure to put something to prevent anything from entering the tank. Finally I cleaned that part of the tank with isopropyl alcohol to remove any oil residue.
@@JazzyScat thx for the info!
I was hesitant to buy this saw at first because of the leaking oil complaints but luckily I found this video and decided to pull the trigger on the saw. I went ahead and followed this easy fix before I put any oil in it and haven't had any leak issues. lt s a nice, light duty saw that is extremely convenient when you don't feel like dragging the gas saw out. Great job on this video, I highly recommend anyone who buys this saw watch this video and go ahead and nip the oil leaking issues in the bud from the start.
Nice job proactively preventing the leak. I agree that they are a great light duty saw. It won't replace a gas saw for larger jobs. I find it super handy to take camping and cut smaller rounds for firewood.
After experiencing the leak on my brand new saw and having seen your video I chose to send it in for warranty repair hoping enough time had passed that Dewalt would fix it. They sent it back just as it was and said that " The oil leak was designed into the system to make sure bar was oiled all the time😂
Came back covered in residual oil I couldn't get out of tank during Shipping..
Seriously?!?! Designed an oil leak so the bar would stay oiled?!? That’s INSANE!!!
would you void the warranty ? probably right
It's good to see someone that knows how to correctly reinstall screws into plastic. Bravo my good man awesome vid.
Exactly! Thanks for noticing that tip - thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great fix. I complained to DeWalt, got the same, “empty the tank after use” B.S. After some back and forth discussion, they sent me a brand new one! Both are getting this fix.. sad that they come faulty from the factory. All my other DeWalt tools have been awesome but on this saw, they need to do better.
Qui a fait ça? Dewalt ou le vendeur? Et dans quel pays tu es pour info?
subscribed. this is the most comprehensive and detailed fix ive ever used on youtube. One commentor said you can leave the brake spring assembly on, and he is right. I took the left hand threaded nut off the sprocket, pulled the brake pin, and left everything else in. Thanks for this video man. Truly is a massive help for the community.
Thank you, I appreciate the positive feedback.
after 2 weeks of doing this fix, and keeping it totally full of oil and sitting... zero leaks. the only dribble i had is now from the oiler nipple with the thicker oring to seal inside the clamshell half for the chain oiler, all because i spun the chain by hand lol thanks again for showing the fix, now i love my lil dewalt limber.
Nicely done!
Amazing video! I have the older DeWalt 40v, DCCS690 and it's been leaking for years and I just accepted it. I found this video, bought the black RTV and did this fix last week. The DCCS690 is essentially the same process with some small differences. Your video gave me the confidence to fix this myself. The hardest part was getting the years of debris cleared out as I've never given in a proper clean (in over 6 years ha). I also discovered I need a better air compressor...
anyhow, THANKS for taking your time to share your expertise. It's been about a week and I now have zero oil leaks.,
I'm glad you finally got yours to quit leaking. Thanks for confirming the 40v saw is similar.
What a great video and it gave me something to do during this cold weather. I've had this saw a long time but never did anything about it leaking. I did all of the sealing on the tank and also found that the o-ring had to be installed on the tank before installing back in the saw. Then it is squeezed just enough between the case and the tank to make a good seal between the case and the tank. If you just put it on the cap or just set it in there it won't make the proper seal. I also put a slightly larger o-ring on the tube that attaches to the case to make a better seal in there also. I turned the tank every which way looking for leaks before installing it and no leaks were observed. I do wish I would have sealed better around the weep hole for the bar and chain but I'll do that if I take it apart again.
I also think that there is too much oil coming out to the bar which is why there is leakage when we get done with the saw. I'm thinking if I take it apart again I'll I may put a smaller piece of tube inside the feed tube to restrict the flow a little. The only leak now is what is left over after use not really from any other point.
Nicely done video!!! Completed oil leak fixes on DCCS620. I also applied sealant - Ultra Black under the edge of each component (the cap insert, the rubber plug where oil pick up tube goes through, and rubber vent plug). I smeared the Ultra Black under the edge or lip to fill the area under the lip of each component. I let the Ultra Black set for a bit and then pressed each component on. This approach keeps the white tank clean. SECONDLY, there is a nipple with a small o-ring on it. This plastic nipple is at the end of the oil pickup tube. The o-ring is way too thin and oil will push pass it. Go to Ace Hardware and get a 5mm inner diameter, 9mm outer diameter, with 2mm thickness rubber o-ring and place on nipple. Apply coat of bar oil on o-ring. Many people are unfortunately forgetting this additional fix. With thicker o-ring, nipple tightly presses through bar cover cylinder shaped housing. Gasketing these 4 places will fix the leaks. Almost forgot to mention: you don't need to cut the casing label. I used a 1/2 inch chisel to lift one half cleanly. A razor blade may work too but chisel fit it perfectly. Label restuck perfectly after reassambly.
Nice tips, thanks for sharing!
I just stand mine up on the battery with the bar pointing upwards and let gravity prevent it leaking. Seems to work!
Same, but after watching this video, I'm wondering if most of the leaking oil is just staying inside the case.
Or you could just drain it after every use like some morons suggest
I store it on its side, oil cap up, with very little oil in it. Then you avoid all the areas noted in the video where it might leak. Stays dry. Also don’t have to totally drain it, if you put only a little oil in and use what you need for the job.
@@marynagy8072 Same here, I found storing it on it's side (on a piece of cardboard, usually from an Amazon shipping box) there might be some residual drips, which the cardboard catches.
Great video. I bought mine to take with me on atv trails to cut up fallen timber. I’m tired of the leaking oil, going to give this a try.
That is it!!! I struggled with that leaky saw for 2 years, tried the Oring fix... nada. Did this and that was the end of the leak!. Thanks so much for posting this, along with the step by step instructions for those of us not necessarily mechanically minded!
Nice work!
This is an amazing video. I did the work before putting any oil. Could not have done it without this video. Superb effort - thank you.
Thanks for the feedback!
Well done sir. Root cause analysis while the tank was out, periodic testing to show gasket seal was the fix, great explanation on getting everything back together and operational as designed. Thank you for that thorough and well thought presentation. I’m a subscriber now, and I don’t usually do that. However, I see this as a vote of approval for your time and effort and as such was happy to sign on. Bravo.
Thank you for the kind words - I'm glad you found this content helpful.
I appreciate the sub!
I was looking for a video of the breakdown/disassembly for this exact reason! I found this the perfect reference video and followed your instructions. So far the leak is resolved! Thanks for the content!
Awesome, I 'm glad you found this helpful. There are a lot of misleading fixes out there. Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for the breakdown and fix. Great little saw. I've had mine sitting on paper towels on a mat.
I want to thank you, I bought it new and followed your video before using it and it hasn't leaked a drop!!!
Perfect, nicely done!
You need to send your video to DeWalt. If you don't, I will. I just ordered one of those saws and every review said they leaked oil. But they said every brand leaked oil so I ordered it anyway. I hate to take apart a brand new saw to fix this problem but I may have to if DeWalt has not fixed the problem already. Thanks for the video!!!! I saved it so I can put everything back together after the tear down. Have a good one.
By the way, I just emailed your video to DeWalt. I asked them why they can not do this at the factory.
@@jerrygreer5715 Nice! Let us know if they respond.
I will, nothing yet. Great video. I should be getting mine in a couple of days. I am going to put oil in it first to see if they have fixed their problem before I take all apart.
Following this thread…
@@clarrisalee1660 I have now used my chainsaw and it did not leak oil. They must have fixed their problem!!!
I watched this video and now I have a leak free chainsaw! Thanks
I recently purchased one of these, then it leaked everywhere. After finding this video, no more leaks. An $8.00 and an hour investment and it’s fixed. Thanks.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. I also found that the O-ring at the end of the oil feed to the bar was too small. The white plastic piece that pushes into the case for the oil feed was so loose it just fell out. This means when the oil is being pumped a lot of it goes straight into the casing. A bigger O-ring provided a nice snug fit and no more oil coming out the case bottom after use.
That's a good thing to keep an eye out for when you're in there. Nice fix!
Thanks for this video tutorial! Was easy to follow. Turns out my saw's primary leak was most likely the small o-ring on the plastic fitting that slips into the casing (oil port for the chain). The o-ring was smashed off to the side and deformed. Got a new one at the local Ace. Fittings at the tank looked okay but I sealed em anyway using RTV. Took the gear case cover off as someone suggested and redistributed the grease. Appeared to be some sort of graphite grease and was heavy in some places and absent in others. I'm sticking with the original bar and chain until the chain wears out then will upgrade. Thanks again!
Where is the gear case cover?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I followed this step by step, put it all back together and it WORKED! 🙏👌
Woohoo! Good to hear.
I just did this to my brand new saw. I managed to lift the label you cut so it is still in one piece. On my saw there was a seal between the tank and the black fill tube. I put black silicone there anyway, just to give over kill. The vent and top of the tank were rather tight, so i did not put sealant there. After the silicone dries, I'll report my findings. So it does appear, Dewalt may have made a few changes from the older saws. As an added plus, Harbor Freight has a t-handle torx set with long enough shafts to reach all of the screws just fine.
Pro Tip: it can be hard to find Hylomar blue in a lot of places. In the UK they use hylomar like a comma, but here in the US, (Maine anyway) its not available. The good news is that Permatex makes the stuff too, but they call it "Permatex Permashield Gasket Dressing 85420" - its oil and fuel resistant, comes in an orange tube, available at any auto parts place. Also, be careful when you screw the cap back on the tube. I don't know if the compound breaks down the plastic of the cap or what, either way, leave it loose or it will crack and the stuff will dry out.
Good tips, thanks
Just got mine in the other day. This is the first thing I did to it right after it came out of the box. Never going to be more oil free for creating a good seal on the tank and adapter was my thought process. Went with the Ultra Black. Looking forward to having this saw as my trim saw to supplement the main gas saw. Thanks for the vid.
Good planning. Yes, these are good saws for small stuff, but don't replace a gas saw for larger stuff. Thanks for watching.
I just did the same. I didn't want to take the chance that it might leak and have to clean the oil out so I did it before any oil touched it. And I didn't have any parts or screws left over thanks to your detail and good filming. Thanks!
Finally somebody who knows it not the “missing O ring”! I also had an RX8, I guess that’s why we are able to problem solve so well. I fixed mine by too but it developed the leak after use again. I will try the sealant this time and it should stay fixed I would assume. Seems like the adapter seal loosening with use and the sealant will prevent. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you. As an RX8 guy, you may know how great the Hylomar is. It should stay pliable in the presence of the bar oil and still hold a seal. I also considered filing down the rough parting line, but that may cause more problems than it solves. No leaking so far other than off the bar&chain. DeWalt really over-lubes their bars.
@@peppermoongarage I would gently file down the mold seams....that's a real factory screw-up..cheaply made and fit. As easy as plastic is to file, might even try a stone just to make sure it goes slowly.
@@TheReal1953 what would be the benefit of filing down the mold seam? Is this an aesthetic thing?
@@dwellner502 Anywhere the surface isn't exactly smooth, you'd want to file or stone to flat. The surface should be like a table top.....then you don't sweat the gasket or sealer.
OMG as if, I had an RX8 too. And my garage is loaded with yellow tools including the above leaking chainsaw LMFAO
Thanks for taking the time to produce the video!
Awesome video. I couldn’t have done the job without it. Thank you.
Great Video, I was able follow it easily. My saw now leaks less, but does still leak around the filler cap. The factory O ring is present and looks fine. The cap itself has a broken wing on the bottom, so it only engages 1 of the locking lugs. Have a new cap on order, so hopefully that fixes it. Extremely disappointed that the saw leaks so badly. Neither of my Stihls leak much, and certainly not from around the fill cap.
Thank you for the comment. Those "wings" on the cap actually compress the cap against that inner square O ring that the sealant goes on. A new cap should help out. Please let us know if it helps or not.
You were correct, of course. With the new cap installed, there's zero leaking after a day of sitting with a full oil tank. The replacement cap seems a little more snug, or tighter locking than I remember the original ever being, but I'm not sure how long it was broken. Thanks again. for the great video!
Nice!
Thanks! Excellent video and sound quality! My saw has the same issue and I'll be following your advice. Maybe I won't have to cleanup the drip pan so often. LOL
I just finished this process and it took way longer than it should have, probably because I am cautious and take time to clean and examine everything. Here are some things I found. I don't see how these tanks could NOT leak. There is such a gap where the tank seam is at the filling port hole. I treated the other openings with Hylomar as well. I took everything apart, blew all the crud out with an air compressor and de-greased with GUNK and cleaned the tank and tubes with water after de-greasing. I left nothing to chance concerning whether or not I am going to get a good seal this time around. Absolutely the most aggravating thing about this entire process was getting that brake spring back in place and under compression. OMG, I about lost it a few times....and I take things apart for a living. I did take the cover off the transmission and move a bit of that grease on to the gears. I took a lot of photos and had all my parts laid out on a clean work surface with a disposable white 36" x 32" pad on top to absorb oil etc. In my particular saw, it has leaked from day 1 and I've owned it for 4 to 5 years now. Hopefully this gives me some relief from that nightmare. I purchased a DeWalt 28" plastic toolbox to keep it in and lined the bottom with towels. Another thing I noticed was that the little port that attaches on the outside of the tank to two prongs, also has an "O" ring on it. Mine was mashed flat and not doing anything to make a seal. I replaced from a new box of "O" rings I just bought. There are 2 flexible tube in there. One is before the pump, going into the tank. The other one is after the pump and mating to the port feeding oil to the chain. The tube on the tank side was getting a bit stretched so I trimmed a 1/4 inch of the stretched tubing off for a tighter fit. Since my saw has some age, I assume this will happen to all these eventually. Maybe some auto grade rubber line can be used if I ever have to go back in there for any reason. One thing I did do was remove that 2nd "O" ring on the fill port that many said solved the problem. The downside to adding that 2nd ring was that it add more material into the cap seal/opening interface. What it has done is start to warp the two hooks on the fill plug itself. I'm going to buy an extra one from Amazon now that my plug is deformed. I will update when I know if this solves my leaking issues.
I originally tried that "missing O-ring" as well and my oil cap splayed out as you described. It's holding in there for now, but I'll probably end up replacing it at some point.
So did it work?!?!
@@clarrisalee1660 Yes, so far so good. No leaks inside the DeWalt toolbox I store it in. I lined it with paper towels to absorb leaks but there are none. I call this fix a SUCCESS.
Ditto on the chain spring, dude, that damn thing nearly made me give up on it
Thanks for the video. Got my saw 3 weeks ago, filled the bar oil and within 12 hours the whole tank of oil leaked out around the front handle under the tank. Did your fix with RTV silicon which solved the issue.
Now we need a way to regulate the oiler, I've never seen a saw puke so much oil from the oil system. I can hold the saw over a log and turn it black from the bar oil spray off the bar not to mention the oil slick running out the chain cover.
Mine over oils a bit IMHO, but not as bad as you are describing. What type of bar oil are you using?
@@peppermoongarage A thicker Stihl oil, not sure of the name, which has helped with oiler leak in my gas saws during summer months. My Echo leaked excessively until I switched to the Stihl oil.
OK, you should be good with a name brand oil that is actually bar oil like you mentioned. Sometimes people run regular motor oil, new or used, and that could make bar oil consumption greater. Post back if you discover a way to regulate the bar oil flow.
Thank you my good sir. I just bought mine and immediately tackled this.
now just waiting for RTV to dry!
Nice!
I admire you for tearing the saw down and fixing it properly! I just know myself enough that something would not go back together right and I’d be worse off 😂… Think I’ll just keep it in a case with shop towels.. I’m a beaten man!
It's always good to know your limits! I noticed the SRT8 in your name. I have a big turbo SRT4-Neon.
Open the gearbox while you have the saw apart. The gears inside are bone dry. There is a little dab of grease tucked in the corner where it will not touch the gears. I greased them myself. Without lube they'll wear out quickly. Good video. It helped me re-assemble the chain break. Oh...no leaks now. Thanks
Thanks for the tip.
@@peppermoongarage Thanks for the tips guys. I am in the market for a new chainsaw and I'll fix it and won't have any problems 👍👍
It's been a few months since I got a Dewalt 20 V chainsaw and I tore the saw down and fixed the leaks before they started leaking. Since then when I use the saw if I place the saw down on the ground (bottom down) there is a small puddle of oil under it after sitting for 10-15 minutes under the chain drive spocket area . I believe that it's due to the over aggressive oiling system because this thing goes through a lot of oil for the cutting that I do. I used to own and use a Sthil 044 with a 2' bar back when I was logging and that saw didn't use half as much oil. So when I store the saw I have it in position with the bar down, cover on at the 6 o' clock position and then there is no oil to clean up 🙂.
I just got thos saw last week... I'm excited to tey this fix out when i get the time! Thanks for sharing
I got one a week a half ago and tore it down before it saw any oil. I went with the ultra black, resealed the vent, supply tube and the filler tube reassembled it and never got a drop 💧 of oil out of it. I know it's only a 10 1/2" cut but I was cutting 12" trees NO PROBLEM. Thanks again for the video it was very instrumental in tearing it down and reassembly 👌👍🤜🤛🤙
Nicely done!
Great instructional video. I'd like to give it five thumbs up instead of one.
Thank you!
@PMG Great instructional video! Thanks for making it. I’m adding Permatex to mine right now, so hopefully no more leaks by tomorrow.👍
@@k1_w3 you should be golden when done!
Just picked one of these up at ace hardware the other day and I couldn't believe how well it works. No oil leaks yet.
LMAO... If I pulled it apart like that it would never go back together. Great video and now I am dreading doing mine but I guess I will need to in order to fix it. Thanks for the video Excellent job.
lol, go for it!
Great video, just got one of these POS and after 3 uses need to do this. And it doesn’t run now. But very much appreciate your video.
Hi, I fortunately watched your video before buying... I almost turned away from Dewalt but I have a lot of Dewalt 5ah batteries, so I kept coming back to this one since my friend has 4 other brands of electric and they all leak... SO I hade the pleasur of doing mine with you and this video on brand spankin newone, no oily gunk or oily wood residue... Thnaks a lot, apart from re inserting the huge black spring, it all was easy and I hope to see this chainsaw clean enough to carry around without bagging it...
Thank you. I'm glad the video helped. It's a fairly simple fix. Like you mention, the investment is in the battery/chargers so it's ideal to stay with the same system. I now have the DeWalt 3/8 impact, inflator/compressor, chainsaw, string trimmer, hammer drill/driver all using the same 2 chargers and 4 batteries.
@@peppermoongarage what shrpener do you use for the blade? I wonder if the Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener works with the dewalt chain size ?
I use an electric sharpener that has a disc. I have seen that the 5/32 file size should work. I'm not sure what size the Stihl sharpener is.
@@peppermoongarage the Stihl 2 in 1 also sharpens the guide notch... important or else the guide remains higher than the blade (shortened by filing) and keeps the blade flying over the wood instead of biting in it... a few good videos on the subject on YT...
they must of did something cause mine still is holding oil and its been a month. I am keeping this video saved until I see a leak.
Keep us updated, i’m about to order one and i don’t want to tear it apart if dewalt fixed it !
Excellent video that shows all the steps. My saw is leaking oil too, but much quicker now than when I bought it. I'll have to take it apart to see what's going on.
Thanks to your video, I was able to get it back together again. :) Now, I just have to wait 24 hours before testing it with oil.
So it's safe to say it's the bar oil tank reservoir .... It looks to me if the manufacturer didn't put the seem right down the middle where the vent and plug are.. it would never leak...correct?... I Wonder if they make a After market or a original tank that does not have the seem in the middle of the ports.?... Thank you for the video
Yes, the parting line is in a bad location. I'm not aware of an aftermarket tank, but that seems like a good idea if someone were to make one. Thanks for watching.
I wrapped some white plumbing tape around the screw-in cap. It worked.
Thanks for the great video. I was ready to chuck my leaking saw in the trash. you were exactly right on the filler neck to oil tank being the culprit
Excellent, glad you got it fixed. Thanks for reporting back.
DeWalt may have upgraded these. I ordered the 20v chainsaw and was about to take it apart and apply gasket seal but had to get a job done. About an hour of continuous work and I had zero oil leak. Put the saw on a countertop with paper towel and zero leaks on the paper towel. I've checked out the outside and removed the chain cover and do not see any oil leaks. Maybe it's just not enough use to see the issue.
I hope they did. FWIW, this leak would only happen if the bar oil is level is above the bottom of the fill hole. They are very handy little saws.
Great video. I took the two back I bought and got a Makita. Sure I’m capable to do the fix but why should I need to? I even called Dewalt and they told me it’s normal and I should drain the oil out after use ! No plan for a redesign as it was designed that way!
I agree, this should not need to be fixed - DeWalt should have better quality control. Draining the oil out is not a good solution. I'm already invested in the 20v DeWalt battery system, so I really wanted to get a solution to this leak. My saw is still not leaking after this fix.
I will just deal with the tiny leak, this little saw is a damn animal, capable of any size job even cutting a notch to fit the saw in lol, the real key is keeping that chain super sharp
Brilliant video many thanks! Followed it to the letter and no leaks. So simple to do with your help, many thanks! Sadly Dewalt still haven’t changed the tank design on the DCM565N here in the UK, but thanks to you we can adapt and overcome!
Nicely done, my friend!
just did mine, i could see the imperfections on the square oring that is between the adapter and the molded tank. smoothed the tank lip gently with razor blade, rtv both sides of square oring and reinstalled. i also found the oring to the oiler nipple was not even making contact with the case half so i swapped it for one that seated snug and sealed. no mo reeky reek.
Excellent!
Wow. You have the skill of a brain surgeon. My 12" dewalt chainsaw is not pumping oil out onto the chain . 1st option was to try an find the oil hole & unblock it from sawdust. Hopefully then I won't have to deep dive like you did and examine the oil pipe from tank to chain. TY
Thank you. There is an oil passage that goes from the saw body and into the chain bar. A lot of time the passage in the bar gets plugged up with sawdust and needs to be cleaned out.
I put very little oil in it, less than half, and store it laying on its side with oil cap up, and it does not leak at all. I would never try this. It would completely spoil the manufacturer’s warantee and I highly doubt I could follow these directions as accurately as necessary to make this new machine function again. Thanks for examining everything.
Going through DeWalts warranty was a pain, I would count more on a self fix than that, sadly.
Does anyone know why the DewaltR&D team doesn't know about this? It's strange that we are having to improve on the design ourselves. Brilliant video buddy.
I'm sure they do know, but choose to not spend the money to manufacture it correctly. It's cheaper to just put a statement in the manual - SMH, FP. At least it's not an expensive fix if a person is comfortable doing it.
That’s great! I’ll just keep an absorbent mat in the bottom of my chainsaw box. That little saw rocks for what it is!
I agree, they are great. It won't replace my Husqvarna 55, but it's handy for smaller jobs and camp firewood.
@@peppermoongarage My Farm Boss does it for me😉👍
Thanks a lot for this video! Very thorough and best of all, it worked! Had a few rough spots - getting the whole safety bar apparatus back correctly in place was difficult for me but I finally got it back together. Now I feel like I have the chainsaw Dewalt should have made in the first place. Anyway, great job!
Nicely done! Thanks for the positive comment.
I just used this breakdown, not for the leaks, but just to understand the breakdown process and reassembly of the parts. I wasn’t getting any chain oil to the chain (I bought this from someone who used it once and put it on the shelf). The tube running from the oil pump to the bar was all plugged up with a gummy substance (like old linseed oil) and I needed to take the spring out of it and clean it and the tube with a thin wire and some light solvent and then soapy water. Did the whole thing in a couple of hours and have a new chainsaw for very cheap…
Nice score with a bit of elbow grease
Thanks to you! How do I leave a few $ to say thanks?@@peppermoongarage
The oil seems to get trapped in the case with nowhere to go.
At 17:50 in this video it shows a low spot in the tank and casing where there is a dead spot.
I can't help but think a person should drill a weep hole in the bottom and then the oil would atleast have a way of draining at a precise spot instead of filling up and leaking through the entire saw.
It could even be tapped or plugged.
The saw could be stored with the hole over a baby food jar or Tupperware container.
Just an FYI Permatex makes a Gear Oil RTV gasket maker that is designed to work in oils and won’t break down. I use it on differentials etc and it works great!
I didn't know that, I'll have to try that out. Thanks for the tip!
Just did this fix with the suggested sealant, really thank you
Great to hear! Congrats!
Great video! How on earth do you remember where everything goes!!??? On the plus side you just convinced me that it’s ok to buy this saw, seems to be the only real complaint I see in the bad reviews so it must be good otherwise, thanks so much!
Well, I recorded me taking it apart, lol!
You are a genius, sir!
Doing this with my brand new one. Using a solder iron to weld the seams instead
Good idea, let us know how it worked out.
@@peppermoongarage leak free. I just melted the seam together and only did rtv on the cap
I have one that I want to use but I can't get the cap to the oil reservoir to open. It won't turn to the unlock position and I am worried that I will put a little too much muscle into it and end up breaking the cap.
Great info, well done!
Thank you, sir
Thank you for the great video! I just bought the saw & this will be done before I oil or use it!
Nice, thanks for watching
Yep it works never had leak with mine did this as soon as I got it
brand new saw, yet to use or add oil. Given hand tremors & decreasing vision, any options to ship my product to accomplish this service, for a fee? Perhaps you, Pepper Moon? Perhaps Dewalt dealer? I would appreciate any options. Txs.
Thank you. I don't own this saw (yet) but I will do this if I ever get one.
Excellent excellent video I just fixed my saw
Congrats, Nicely Done!
This is great info! I have similar leak on mine I wasn’t able to get it all off I must’ve missed a screw, will try again.
“Seth Rogen goes exploring in power tools”
😆jk
Thanks for taking the plunge 👍
Lol!
Great video, but I doubt that I will bother. For as much as I use the saw, it just isn't worth it. And I really wasn't surprised that it leaked; every chain saw I have ever used has leaked. Btw, I like your camera.
For sure. You can always drain the oil, or just not fill it above the leak point, which is what I did before fixing it.
Can somebody inform me what the roll pin on the brake mechanism does? I can't seem to figure out where it goes or what its purpose is?
I've just bought the 18v kit model down from this. Really great chainsaw, but why don't deWalt include a screw/knob etc to regulate the flow of chain/bar oil?! Durr!
Anyway awesome vid, cheers legend! :)
Thanks for sharing! Great job!
Thanks for watching! I just used it for firewood on a hunting trip and it's super handy to have in the truck.
Wonder if you can use a heat gun to melt the parting line together?
The parting line just creates an uneven surface that requires sealer.
What about lightly filing off the parting line irregularities? I love hylomar and my 16” dewalt seeps oil just like this
I thought about that but wasn't sure I could get it flat enough. The parting line on my saw is more of a void than a protrusion. If you try it, report back and let us know how it went.
Dang, if the oil leak bothered me that much, I’d throw it away before I went thru all that! If I did manage to put the thing back together, it would probably polish instead of cut. What a nightmare, you’d think DeWalt would have caught that with a thorough quality check and now that they are aware, address it at some point! I was about to buy one from Home Depot!
The leaking is starting to annoy me so it's about time to crack into it! If i take apart the gearbox, any suggestions for the grease to put on those gears?
Use some silicone based grease which plays well with plastic. I have had a tube of this for years and I use it for a lot of things: amzn.to/3seYb9N
Thanks for the great detailed video ... I just bought this Dewalt chainsaw from my local hardware store on clearance; read the reviews about the oil leak problem, thought I prevent than fix. Could you use alternative sealants? I am from Australia and the Hylomar non setting blue sealant is difficult to source ... I have some Permatex FORM-A-GASKE NO.2 SEALANT - do you think that would work also? Many thanks - Ethan
Yes, the No.2 should be fine - it's non-hardening and oil resistant. I used to use that before I started using the Ultra Black which I find to be easier to apply. The Hylomar is great if you can get it (Link in the description), even if it is a bit spendy. Reply back either way and let us know how it works.
Realy informativ and good job 💪
Thank you
Just bought one of these. No leak when not being used. Just when I am using it, it leaks oil from the saw side when being used.is this normal? Is it suppose to just spray oil on the blade?
All chainsaws will seep a little chain oil from the bar. The chain oil is pumped to the chain through the bar to keep the chain and bar lubricated.
This is something that DeWalt needs to fix when they build it. I just bought one two weeks ago and they still have this issue.
100%, my friend!
thank you, you made it much easier .
Glad to hear that!
Great tear down reference video. The internals look very similar to the 1st Gen 16” flexvolt chainsaw. Probably not surprising.
Both my 12” and 16” leak while stored. The additional o ring solution did not work for me either. Thanks for sharing perhaps I give this a try in the future. Cheers from 🇨🇦
Thanks for the comment. I didn't see any other videos that described this source of the bar oil leak. It's a pretty simple fix.
do you fixed you flexvolt ? is it works ?
@@UEDSquadron nope both saws still leak but I haven’t tried paper moon’s solution yet.
My 1st gen 16” also stopped pumping bar oil. I replaced the pump (that’s how I learned there are two different 16” versions) but it has weak flow.
To change the pump I had to take it apart. I wish I had this video as a reference as the two are very similar.
Quick question , could the brake spring assembly be left in place if the sprocket drum were removed first ? Thanks , a very good instructional you've done here .
That's a good question, I don't have an answer to that. That would make it easier. If anyone knows, please reply. Thanks for watching.
Yes. Just did my 16" saw and left complete spring mechanism in. Still have to take long pin and brake handle off to complete separating the two half's but you don't have to take out the rest of the spring assembly. Leave brake handle in the off position (towards handle) before removal to be able to take gear out.
very comprehensive repair.
Thank you
Hi I’ve watched you video a few times and I’m attempting to do this fix, nearly have it opened up, all the screws are out , wouldn’t open went back to your video to see what I did wrong, it was the nut on the sprocket, but when I try to turn it, the sprocket keeps moving and I’m not strong enough to hold it, I tried using the drill( thinking a sudden quick turn would loosen it but no, so I’m not sure what to do now, my son is not available to help today so I thought I would try here, I’m a 69 year old woman that just doesn’t have finger strength lol
Any help would be appreciated😊
Hi, that sprocket bolt is a left hand thread which is the opposite of a regular fastener. So to loosen it, turn it the way a normal bolt would tighten. Does that help?
Thank you for the response, I did know that it was left loosens and right tightens, I got it apart by using a pipe wrench to keep the sprocket under the bolt still while I turned the bolt, I sealed everything on the tank(well I thought I did) and put it back together, at first there was minimal leaking, thought that might have been from residual oil in the body of the saw, but after using the saw it started leaking even worse than before, and now after cleaning the saw of all the oil soaked sawdust, went to put the bar on and the chain tightening knob won’t turn, so this will be the second saw that I will be returning, which is sad, because I love this saw, it works great at cutting up to 7-8 inch limbs with no issues(well it did)😕
I just rewatched your video, and will take it apart again, to see why the knobs not turning, and if it’s fixable, re-seal it again exactly the way you did😊
Thank you for this video
Mine has leaked like crazy from day 1. The fact this is normal is beyond me.
I agree, it seems like DeWalt missed a quality control opportunity here.
You can smooth out the seam lines where a seal is needed with a deburring tool or curved blade exacto knife and sand it a little bit afterwards. Sometimes you can smooth seams over quickly with a soldering iron in the key places where seals are, making the original seals work as intended.
I fix shitty gas cans this way quite successfully so their spouts don’t leak.
Did this today but also glued over and under both orings and greased the lid and assembled while still wet. Should be mint.
I just bought the saw. I wonder if this should be done before I even do use it. I wonder if dewalt finally fixed this problem would you know?
I don't know if it's been fixed on the newer saws. Let us know if you find out with yours. They are great if they're not leaking.
Thanks for the quick reply. I might just rip it open before I even add oil into it. Last thing I want is oil going all over my garage floor. Thanks for taking the time to make a vid and show us all how it's done. Much appreciated!
In the manual, it says you’re supposed to empty the bar oil tank every time you’re finished using it I think that would be much easier than taking that all apart and try to fix the leaks
That’s true, but have you tried emptying the oil tank? It makes a mess and you’ll most likely get sawdust and/or dirt in your oil container along with the drained oil.
@@peppermoongarage
I just blow the crud off with a can of “compressed gas air” and use a funnel, relatively painless. Use it to clean the filler cap area before filling to keep the crud from falling in. Also blow the crud away from the cooling vents on the motor at each battery change and clean all of the battery contacts at that time. Seems to help with a number of issues. It can also help with cleaning the debris that collects under the cover.