The Shoremeter measures a point of the same diameter (so same area), but even going from 12 to 13mm, the area is 17% larger. So you'd expect you would need more pressure to compress a larger diameter elastomer.
If he was he would be driving modest, luxury cars calmly and slowly rather than purposefully make pedals and gearboxes as hard as he can get away with to resemble supercars
Hey Barry, great video, love your channel. I am surprised that in over 2 years, no one mentioned or corrected you that you didn't actually use the "Very Hard" setting. You used the 13mm & 12mm green, which give you "Hard". This is evident when you say you place the smaller green second in the piston and at the end when you show the side-by-side comparison. The "Very Hard" setting, as per the pamphlet in the kit, is when you use the two 13mm green elastomers.
I think that was just a screenshot of him holding 2 greens. He showed us the hardness chart showing that he knew, so I imagine he didn't confuse the diameters.
Barry, your site site is invaluable. The presentation and the substance is the absolute best. Great setup instructions and product reviews. Unbelievably helpful .
Thank you S R Garage, for this comprehensive and clear description of the task and tools. I always play these vids back as I service my gear because I have a memory like a sieve! Hahaha! You are natural teacher.
I sure wish I had had a dad like you. I would've learned a helluva lot more than how to hate.... learned something of value. Love your thorough reviews! Thanks for doing them.
Just completed this process. If the brakes are well used a dual deep scratch will develop on the pin. When that happens removing the pin requires significant force. May require a tool and hammer like taps. After you get it out remove the scratch grooves with a small file and reassembly is easy.
Quite a few people have broken the wire that comes from the vibration motor. When the rod is out, the piston pushes directly against the wire, and when moving the piston to get it out and back in again, it pushes against it and can easily damage the thin wire. I used a 2.5mm allen key to protect the wire. First flip the pedals upside down to work on it easier, then lay the 2.5mm allen key beneath the piston and next to the wire. It totally protects the wire, plus it's just about perfect thickness to easily get the rod back in.
Your voice is unique. You could easily go into advertising if you weren't retired. Great reviews. Great work. Thank you for putting All those efforts into this so we know what we get.
Hi Barry, great video. I was really looking forward to it since I have the same pedals and also got the kit. Here is a comment I wanted to share with you since you seem to have some engineering background or be engineeringly inclined: The measurement of hardness gives you an idea of the stiffness of the material (Young's Modulus, E, for simplicity) but the stiffness of each block scales with the cross sectional area (A). All the green blocks measured similar hardness (therefore similar "Young's Modulus") but the wider blocks have about 20% more cross sectional area so they should be about 20% stiffer, i.e. they require 20% more load for the same amount of brake travel, assuming all the blocks have the same length (L). Axial stiffness of each block goes with E*A/L. I am assuming the brake does not rely on the contact with the side walls and there is plenty of room for the blocks to expand (Poisson effect) since this type of material has high Poison ratio (0.5) which are "incompressible". If that was the case, I believe the stiffness would depend on the Bulk modulus of the each block, but you would feel a change in the stiffness of the pedal as the blocks come in contact with the walls (the narrow ones would have a bigger gap). To put it simple. The 13mm block should be around 20% stiffner than the 12mm block (if they are all the same length, L, and material, E). I you already knew what I explained above... maybe it can still be useful for other viewers. Looking forward to your next video
I agree with that assessment. I did end up putting the extra 13mm bumper in. But in use, I was hard pressed to notice a difference in travel or stiffness.
I tried a bunch of different combinations and ended up using the 012 red and 013 red. It's still plenty stiff, but still provides some travel. Feels perfect to me.
Especially if the bore diameter is close to 13mm, the stopper will push against the bore walls and will stiffen up due to interaction according to Poisson's ratio.
I put these two reds in and couldn't even push the pedal 1" using both feet. I'm wondering if I got rocks instead of plastic, I can't imagine how he's pushing the greens a couple of inches.
Cutting another elastomere piece to the length of the PU foam and adding it into the piston instead of the foam would probably do the trick Barry?!? This is what I will do most probably when I get the kit. I bought this pedals nearly two years ago, and simply was so sad that I couldn't properly race them. Now I'm convinced i have to buy this kit. It's another 45€ incl. shipment, but still I don't have the bucks to buy Heusinkvelds yet. So no other option for me left really :) Thank you very much for the ultra professional review Barry! Greetings from Slovenia
When the bigger/softer(13mm) rubbers compress within the piston, they grip the cylinder walls tighter. This increases the amount of pressure required to get the piston to travel down(ie distance compressed) the cylinder and compress the transducer. The smaller diameter(12mm), although harder, expand less and creates less cylinder wall pressure during compression. Which allows for further piston travel and in turn greater pressure transducer compression.
Gotta get this with a dampener for my gas pedal along with my set of V3 pedals I’m about to order, glad I watched this video I didn’t even know they still sold this package
Love the vids. Straight forward and easy to understand. Lil tip if i may but when setting the max throttle push it all the way down then release ever so slightly and set to max so that way its allways 100% on max throttle and not slightly below.
I don't know if I'm missing something but isn't the 12mm rubber softer because it has more room to expand sideways in the chamber? Meaning even though they are slightly stiffer, the fact that they have more room to expand sideways before hitting the walls of the chamber, they end up feeling softer and allowing for more travel than the 13mm in the end?
Thanks mate! Your a true enthusiast! No to go recap how to put the dampener in haha...you save me having to think too much ,and take out all the guess work
FYI : @26:27 Barry SHOWS the 12mm and 13mm green bumpers while stating, "ended up using the VERY HARD combination". Which is confusing/incorrect. The VERY HARD combination is using both 13mm green bumpers. The HARD combination is the 12mm and 13mm green bumpers as he is showing here, and installed. And was demonstrated where he complains of it being too soft. He did state he would try the 12mm/13mm(Hard) green combination and the 13mm(VERY HARD) green combination. Barry must have done so and stated as such @ 26:27 without realizing he was displaying the 12mm/13mm green bumpers. Just an FYI so no one thinks the 12mm/13mm combination as shown is the VERY HARD combination.
Ordered these and the damper too who needs instructions when we have Barry. Thanks. EDIT 29/6 I could not line up the hole so folded paper several times to elevate black piece so I could re-insert shaft also the shaft on mine had to be hammered out it would not budge. Two greens were too hard for me changed to 13 and 12 red as I prefer that.
The smaller bumpers are not harder. They are actually the same hardness. It's just your measurement device and how it works. The smaller bumpers have less surface area touching the foot of the tool to absorb the pressure, so the pressure per square inch (psi) will be higher, given the same amount of over all pressure, than the wider bumper with a larger surface area. But the larger ones will "feel" stiffer in the pedal, because you will have to use more overall pressure to compress the material with the larger surface area, and therefore you will "feel" more resistance.
Material hardness does not translate into needed pressure. Compressing the different volumes with the same hardness gives diferent pressure values. So for the same hardness level, more volume needs more pressure to deform the volume. In this case, same colour more diameter will need more pressure for the same color smaller one.
For the V3 Inverted. I recommend adding washers and longer screws to the clutch block to shorten the throw. Stock is too long and sticks forward to far.
First time I've installed SOFT set, and now I replaced it for HARD set (skipped MEDIUM). I'd say that the difference is not so noteable as I expected. I have a diy rig and I can push brake to the limit easily (no preload, full stroke). 90kg is not too much weight for the brake, so I recommend to use it's HARD set at the beginning. Maybe for free pedal positioning on the floor it could be a problem, but not for a rig. Before installation procedure I recommend to find a 2.6-3 mm thickness plastic spacer and use it to protect the wire - piston easily slides along it.
Even if the larger green one has a slightly lower hardness, it should feel stiffer overall because larger diameter objects require more total pressure to compress. 13mm diameter has 133 mm² area. Whereas 12mm only has 113 mm². That's 20 mm² more area for only 1mm additional diameter.
Thanks for all the best reviews for motion sims, g- force sims, pedals, gear shifts and and DD wheels, But watching them is like watching sexy cars on Top Gear.. 98% of them I can't afford.
I agree that these should be included within the purchase of the V3’s. However, businesses are just that, a business, there to make money. There is a point of taking the piss but in this instance I don’t think it is. Some people wouldn’t dare fiddling with these pedals and the feel out of the box isn’t that bad.
@@bigbaderek1978 in europe they are asking 30 usd for shipping. I escalated it and they reply me that this is the price and they cannot revise it. It's honestly ridiculous and I didnt order it.
I just my kit in the mail. I don't think I'll go as stiff as Barry though. I'm also going to install the dampening mod on my throttle in an attempt to stiffen it up as well. Great review Barry.
@@WhiteHawk77 i'll let you know after I try it out. My first set of pedals were the CSR's. The v3's were a significant jump up for me, in terms of feel. I ordered the dampener when I bought the pedals but never put it on. Now that I've had them for awhile, I'd like just a bit more resistance.. Everything that I've read and seen, say it doesn't make sense to use the brake kit and dampener on the brake pedal itself. Since I have both, I'll try out the kits on both pedals. Worst case, I won't like them and I"ll take them off.
Great review Barry, I've had my stock V3 pedals for about 2 months now and I think I'll be doing this upgrade shortly. On a side note, I see in the background you are into the FPV hobby, would love to see you fly ? Have you ever posted any FPV related stuff on youtube ? Keep up the great work.
They say to not lube the foam because that's what caused the notchy feeling in the original design. I didn't use the foam in the performance kit upgrade.
@@anthcesana Are you still not using the PU Foam? I have been trying different combinations and, am realizing now that I don't want the progressive feel where it gets stiffer as the throw gets deeper. This is why I asked you about getting rid of the PU. Now, to choose which 2 of the same Bumpers to go with..
Ordered Fanatec gear the other day and added the performance kit for the ClubSport V3 pedal set. I'll likely try how they feel out of the box first though as I'm used to a pedal set with a potentiometer, so I have no experience of how a Loadcell brake feels.
Hey Barry, I've just bought the Clubsport V3 Pedals with the BPK and I wanted to ask you how much difference there is between the "Mid" setting (13mm red and green) and the "Hard" setting (13 and 12mm green) . I was looking for a feeling as close as possible to a GT3 car but was also worried that the "Hard" setting would be to uncomfortable to drive without shoes (as I do most of the time)... What would you recommend? Thanks for the great content! Keep it up!
FYI: I just read this in Fanatec v3 pedals manual: "Please add some technical vaseline to the PU foam inside brake pedal if it develops a stuttering feeling. Do not use the lithium grease from ClubSport Pedals V3 box content as this might affect the life time of the PU foam." Of course I read that days after I did just that to the original foam pieces that were in pedals, as I didn't like the very hard feeling of the red rubber in Performance kit box :-O
Very well done! Because I'm going to switch from an old G25 Pedalset to the Fanatec V3 (and DD1 Wheelbase, delivery date in June'19), I didn't order the performance kit. I would be hard enough for me to deal with the difference between those two pedalsets even without the kit. Perhaps I'll do the upgrade later if I should ever purchase an additional steering wheel.
I wouldn’t be surprised if these were standard on a V4 set, unless they changed their design completely between now and then. But I absolutely agree, they offered the incremental upgrade from the CSW 2 to 2.5, why not have the V3.5 pedals with this mod pre-installed?
The kit is all about allowing the user to adjust the feel of the brake pedal to their own liking. There is not point selling it with the kit installed as to truly get the full benefit you would have to go through all the iterations to find what you like anyway.
This might seem cynical towards Fanatec ( who'm i'm a fan of) but seems that maybe the V3s only came with the softer 60 rated Elastomers knowing they already planned the extra "Performance kit"in order to make some more money , also it means the V3 pedals out of the box would have a softer feel than the CSL LC pedal that come with 65s, 85s and 90 shore rated Elastomers.
This is actually word exactly used for such situations. Well-known for example in mountain biking when tuning and servicing dampers and suspension forks. Stiction is a static friction which you must overcome to make something start moving.
Great videos i stumbled upon them after i did my brake kit install but here's a question, what if we use the 2 green ones wittout the small spongy one, and use the pedal travel to tightened the pedal as it is no longer needed for travel . ( i have the 2 green ones because i saw this video after. I haven't used it yet but my pedal has no travel ) Or what that make it too stiff?
My set screw is impossible to move. Was shocked how easily you turned it. Had to sell the kit as did not want to lose the pedals for 2-3 weeks and having to remove the damper mod...for one screw.
Any experience with the load cell breaking? Just lost my first one and had to buy a replacements as I was out of warranty Plus Fanatec will not sell me a spare due to limited inventory so have to wait 2-3 weeks shipping if it goes.
Great in depth detailed review as usual! Is it possible to make these mods and adjustments without removing the entire pedal assembly from the rig? Looks like the access to the set screw at the bottom and removing the elastomers while mounted in the rig could be an issue. Thoughts anyone?
I have a question, anyone can answer this. What if you just cut one of the red elastomers to the length of the sponge? Shouldn't that greatly reduce the throw of the pedals?
Excellent review of the kit! Does it matter which diameter rubber is installed first into the barrel? Smaller diameter towards the transducer, or towards the piston rod? I would think it must, because why the different diameters, while their hardness values are so close? Also same question for their hardness values. Softer rubber material first, towards transducer, then progressively stiffer rubber towards the piston?
Hi Barry, thanks for another great informative video. I had a question regarding the measurements, you didn’t mention the length of the bushes and the foam insert. Would it be possible to give us the lengths please? Thanks again for such great content 🙏
@Sim Racing Garage, Is there an easy way to swap the clutch and break on V3 pedals, I see there are several that have bought this pedal kit, but needs to swap when using Playseat F1 because of its middle rod mount. Perhaps you could do a video on how to do it? It seems the issue is that the vibration wire for the brake is too short to do the swap, do you have a solution to this?
how do you set up this rig? im planning to get a vrs osw, cube control wheels, clubsport pedals v3, for my shifter and handbreak i might switch to a better one in the future but for now i think i'll go for the thrustmaster sparco handbreak and its shifter. now the problems is what are the extra that i need to buy to fit all of this to my pc. seeing you most likely have all the sim rigs there is on your garage i assume you got the answers. and do vrs deliver globally? thanks and a next level racing f-gt and will diy around it to make my osw more stable.
Is it me or did Barry set the pedals up in the "hard" setting with a 13mm and 12mm green insert instead of the "very hard" with two 13mm green inserts?? Also the way that the 12mm works out to be softer than it's 13mm counterpart is the fitment into the pedal rods sleeve. Having not seen these pedals pulled apart I would guess the 13mm inserts are a snug fit and only allow compression of the material. The 12mm insert not only gets compressed but also bulges to give a slightly softer feel.
I agree with that assessment. I did end up putting the extra 13mm bumper in. But in use, I was hard pressed to notice a difference in travel or stiffness.
I want a firm break, but I also want a good amount of room to press it down, I can’t seem to find a good middle, either a I get a lot of room to activate the pedal and it’s very light, or no barely a inch of room of moving the pedal makes it very firm and good feeling, just I would rather have a longer push, it’s just so short when it’s tight
I’m just getting into sim racing, sadly it’s only on PS4 not PC yet. I started with the T150 3pa, and I upgraded to a t300Rs. I understand the importance of good pedals now, I really am considering buying these but if it’s hooked up to a PS4pro is it pointless? Or should I start investing in a PC setup? I love watching your videos too, my youngest son and I love to tinker so he loves watching you too!
When I installed even the softest combination the pedal was rock hard and had about 1mm of travel with extreme pressure, is my kit broken? I replaced them with the two that came with the pedals and it worked again.
I started telling my wife "Let's get to it" when its time to get down. She doesn't know where it came from, but she likes it.
The Shoremeter measures a point of the same diameter (so same area), but even going from 12 to 13mm, the area is 17% larger. So you'd expect you would need more pressure to compress a larger diameter elastomer.
I thought the same thing, but my comment was much more wordy. haha
Yeah, for these i think you have to measure them as if they were springs and calculate the force required to deform them by a certain length
I must admit, I am quite bothered by the lack of understanding of such a thing... XD
you're the James May of simracing! XD nice video ty
More like the Bob Ross of Sim Racing! :) So relaxed listening to Barry :)
If he was he would be driving modest, luxury cars calmly and slowly rather than purposefully make pedals and gearboxes as hard as he can get away with to resemble supercars
Hey Barry, great video, love your channel. I am surprised that in over 2 years, no one mentioned or corrected you that you didn't actually use the "Very Hard" setting.
You used the 13mm & 12mm green, which give you "Hard". This is evident when you say you place the smaller green second in the piston and at the end when you show the side-by-side comparison.
The "Very Hard" setting, as per the pamphlet in the kit, is when you use the two 13mm green elastomers.
I think that was just a screenshot of him holding 2 greens. He showed us the hardness chart showing that he knew, so I imagine he didn't confuse the diameters.
The performance kit is a must! And as you said, Fanatec should include this kit with the pedals..
Barry, your site site is invaluable. The presentation and the substance is the absolute best. Great setup instructions and product reviews. Unbelievably helpful .
Your reviews are simply fantastic, Barry! Thank you!
This should have been included with the pedals. A couple of rubbers.
Always enjoy your vids. insane details... very very good
Well I hope u always use your rubbers
Agreed 100 %. Especially considering what the pedals alone cost.
Thank you S R Garage, for this comprehensive and clear description of the task and tools. I always play these vids back as I service my gear because I have a memory like a sieve! Hahaha! You are natural teacher.
I sure wish I had had a dad like you. I would've learned a helluva lot more than how to hate.... learned something of value.
Love your thorough reviews! Thanks for doing them.
Always loving your videos, they all have that 80's Harley Davidson mechanical education video touch. Excellent to watch on a Sunday afternoon
Just completed this process. If the brakes are well used a dual deep scratch will develop on the pin. When that happens removing the pin requires significant force. May require a tool and hammer like taps. After you get it out remove the scratch grooves with a small file and reassembly is easy.
Quite a few people have broken the wire that comes from the vibration motor. When the rod is out, the piston pushes directly against the wire, and when moving the piston to get it out and back in again, it pushes against it and can easily damage the thin wire. I used a 2.5mm allen key to protect the wire. First flip the pedals upside down to work on it easier, then lay the 2.5mm allen key beneath the piston and next to the wire. It totally protects the wire, plus it's just about perfect thickness to easily get the rod back in.
I also did this, can confirm, it saves you a major headache
Great tip! Thck Zip-ties are also good and easy to remove.
Your voice is unique. You could easily go into advertising if you weren't retired. Great reviews. Great work. Thank you for putting All those efforts into this so we know what we get.
Yea . .His voice reminds me of Mr. Bob Ross the famous portrait painter ..
And who wouldn't want to be in the great advertising business.
The performance kit now includes a tool to help you put the pedal arm back and to help not the crush or snap the vibrator motor wire
Barry, your videos remind me of the old Saturday morning speed channel car builds and upgrades. Never change!
haha 100% good call out
Hi Barry, great video. I was really looking forward to it since I have the same pedals and also got the kit.
Here is a comment I wanted to share with you since you seem to have some engineering background or be engineeringly inclined:
The measurement of hardness gives you an idea of the stiffness of the material (Young's Modulus, E, for simplicity) but the stiffness of each block scales with the cross sectional area (A). All the green blocks measured similar hardness (therefore similar "Young's Modulus") but the wider blocks have about 20% more cross sectional area so they should be about 20% stiffer, i.e. they require 20% more load for the same amount of brake travel, assuming all the blocks have the same length (L). Axial stiffness of each block goes with E*A/L.
I am assuming the brake does not rely on the contact with the side walls and there is plenty of room for the blocks to expand (Poisson effect) since this type of material has high Poison ratio (0.5) which are "incompressible". If that was the case, I believe the stiffness would depend on the Bulk modulus of the each block, but you would feel a change in the stiffness of the pedal as the blocks come in contact with the walls (the narrow ones would have a bigger gap).
To put it simple. The 13mm block should be around 20% stiffner than the 12mm block (if they are all the same length, L, and material, E).
I you already knew what I explained above... maybe it can still be useful for other viewers.
Looking forward to your next video
I agree with that assessment. I did end up putting the extra 13mm bumper in. But in use, I was hard pressed to notice a difference in travel or stiffness.
@@simracinggarage3026 Ha! Hard pressed... Punny!
I tried a bunch of different combinations and ended up using the 012 red and 013 red. It's still plenty stiff, but still provides some travel. Feels perfect to me.
Especially if the bore diameter is close to 13mm, the stopper will push against the bore walls and will stiffen up due to interaction according to Poisson's ratio.
@@virtual_GaRy Are you okay?
I put these two reds in and couldn't even push the pedal 1" using both feet. I'm wondering if I got rocks instead of plastic, I can't imagine how he's pushing the greens a couple of inches.
@@TheAncientColossus shh the adults are talking
@@virtual_GaRy thanks I learned something
Cutting another elastomere piece to the length of the PU foam and adding it into the piston instead of the foam would probably do the trick Barry?!? This is what I will do most probably when I get the kit. I bought this pedals nearly two years ago, and simply was so sad that I couldn't properly race them. Now I'm convinced i have to buy this kit. It's another 45€ incl. shipment, but still I don't have the bucks to buy Heusinkvelds yet. So no other option for me left really :) Thank you very much for the ultra professional review Barry! Greetings from Slovenia
Yes, that would work. I have read of some people actually cutting properly sized wooden dowels to replace the PU foam piece.
I love this channel it's a whole new level of "in depth" thanks for the hard work Barry!
Great working alongside you Barry, as I did the same mod to my pedal set……… easy 😉😎
When the bigger/softer(13mm) rubbers compress within the piston, they grip the cylinder walls tighter. This increases the amount of pressure required to get the piston to travel down(ie distance compressed) the cylinder and compress the transducer. The smaller diameter(12mm), although harder, expand less and creates less cylinder wall pressure during compression. Which allows for further piston travel and in turn greater pressure transducer compression.
I'm so thankful for this channel. Thanks Barry!
Thx, just installed the brake performance kit. What a difference. So glad you made a real good vid about the config. !!
You're the man, I could watch you all day.
In fact I did 😆
Gotta get this with a dampener for my gas pedal along with my set of V3 pedals I’m about to order, glad I watched this video I didn’t even know they still sold this package
Love the vids. Straight forward and easy to understand. Lil tip if i may but when setting the max throttle push it all the way down then release ever so slightly and set to max so that way its allways 100% on max throttle and not slightly below.
I don't know if I'm missing something but isn't the 12mm rubber softer because it has more room to expand sideways in the chamber? Meaning even though they are slightly stiffer, the fact that they have more room to expand sideways before hitting the walls of the chamber, they end up feeling softer and allowing for more travel than the 13mm in the end?
yes
Thanks Barry, I just bought the Fanatec and Im waiting for it to come. Your vids are great !
Bro your videos are the best! Thanks for the work out there
Always producing amazing technical reviews. Thanks
Thanks mate! Your a true enthusiast! No to go recap how to put the dampener in haha...you save me having to think too much ,and take out all the guess work
Thanks for those real good quality videos
Thank you for an excellent review and demonstration :)
FYI : @26:27 Barry SHOWS the 12mm and 13mm green bumpers while stating, "ended up using the VERY HARD combination". Which is confusing/incorrect. The VERY HARD combination is using both 13mm green bumpers. The HARD combination is the 12mm and 13mm green bumpers as he is showing here, and installed. And was demonstrated where he complains of it being too soft. He did state he would try the 12mm/13mm(Hard) green combination and the 13mm(VERY HARD) green combination. Barry must have done so and stated as such @ 26:27 without realizing he was displaying the 12mm/13mm green bumpers.
Just an FYI so no one thinks the 12mm/13mm combination as shown is the VERY HARD combination.
Ordered these and the damper too who needs instructions when we have Barry. Thanks. EDIT 29/6 I could not line up the hole so folded paper several times to elevate black piece so I could re-insert shaft also the shaft on mine had to be hammered out it would not budge. Two greens were too hard for me changed to 13 and 12 red as I prefer that.
Like always , nice to have your opinion
The smaller bumpers are not harder. They are actually the same hardness. It's just your measurement device and how it works. The smaller bumpers have less surface area touching the foot of the tool to absorb the pressure, so the pressure per square inch (psi) will be higher, given the same amount of over all pressure, than the wider bumper with a larger surface area. But the larger ones will "feel" stiffer in the pedal, because you will have to use more overall pressure to compress the material with the larger surface area, and therefore you will "feel" more resistance.
Material hardness does not translate into needed pressure. Compressing the different volumes with the same hardness gives diferent pressure values. So for the same hardness level, more volume needs more pressure to deform the volume. In this case, same colour more diameter will need more pressure for the same color smaller one.
I didn't use the foam, I use 2 greens and cut down a 3rd green. Feels great
For the V3 Inverted.
I recommend adding washers and longer screws to the clutch block to shorten the throw. Stock is too long and sticks forward to far.
First time I've installed SOFT set, and now I replaced it for HARD set (skipped MEDIUM). I'd say that the difference is not so noteable as I expected. I have a diy rig and I can push brake to the limit easily (no preload, full stroke). 90kg is not too much weight for the brake, so I recommend to use it's HARD set at the beginning. Maybe for free pedal positioning on the floor it could be a problem, but not for a rig. Before installation procedure I recommend to find a 2.6-3 mm thickness plastic spacer and use it to protect the wire - piston easily slides along it.
Thank you for your videos. CSP v3 & BPK will be my next upgrade.
Just bought this pedal set and need a much firmer brake. I will probably use the very hard setting also. Excited to try and get this set up
Even if the larger green one has a slightly lower hardness, it should feel stiffer overall because larger diameter objects require more total pressure to compress.
13mm diameter has 133 mm² area. Whereas 12mm only has 113 mm². That's 20 mm² more area for only 1mm additional diameter.
I like your funny words magic man
Absolutely love the channel. Keep them on their toes for us Barry! In a world full of misdirection, it's nice to have something to trust.
Cheating using the 1st first calibration video.. lol.. Love your reviews
Thanks for all the best reviews for motion sims, g- force sims, pedals, gear shifts and and DD wheels, But watching them is like watching sexy cars on Top Gear.. 98% of them I can't afford.
You are not suppose to put lithium grease on small pu form tho, it come with pre applied dry lubricant layers, you can feel it, kinda waxy feeling
Awesome informative vid bro thank you! 10/10
Another fantastic review, Barry! you are the best out there!
the greens and red would cost maybe 10 cents each to manufacture ( bulk)
Are you paying to manufacture 'X' amount of each? Any business would charge as much, plus shipping, and handling at your facility.
@@Youngsta0 you pay an extra 11 for shipping and handling
I agree that these should be included within the purchase of the V3’s. However, businesses are just that, a business, there to make money. There is a point of taking the piss but in this instance I don’t think it is. Some people wouldn’t dare fiddling with these pedals and the feel out of the box isn’t that bad.
@@bigbaderek1978 in europe they are asking 30 usd for shipping. I escalated it and they reply me that this is the price and they cannot revise it. It's honestly ridiculous and I didnt order it.
Just want to thank you for the Allen key tip to put the brake pedal steel rod back. Before that I spent two hours scratching my head...
Hope you are going to make a review about the all new Simlab XP1 pedals.
I just my kit in the mail. I don't think I'll go as stiff as Barry though. I'm also going to install the dampening mod on my throttle in an attempt to stiffen it up as well. Great review Barry.
A dampner on the accelerator is amazing. So much better throttle control. I highly recommend it.
@@WhiteHawk77 i'll let you know after I try it out. My first set of pedals were the CSR's. The v3's were a significant jump up for me, in terms of feel. I ordered the dampener when I bought the pedals but never put it on. Now that I've had them for awhile, I'd like just a bit more resistance.. Everything that I've read and seen, say it doesn't make sense to use the brake kit and dampener on the brake pedal itself. Since I have both, I'll try out the kits on both pedals. Worst case, I won't like them and I"ll take them off.
Very nice and fantastic video !! Great job thank you...I am installing them too
Great review Barry, I've had my stock V3 pedals for about 2 months now and I think I'll be doing this upgrade shortly. On a side note, I see in the background you are into the FPV hobby, would love to see you fly ? Have you ever posted any FPV related stuff on youtube ? Keep up the great work.
No FPV stuff. Want to keep a single focus with this channel. It is a lot of fun though.
Thanks Barry. Great review.
At 23:00 what model are your Alpinestars boots? They look great
Love the channel mate..just FYI instructions say DO NOT lube the foam 😉
Correct, but the original foam bumpers that came out had lube on them.
@@simracinggarage3026 yeah. Thats true. Anyway, good stuff man. You sure put that pedal back together alot faster than me 😂
They say to not lube the foam because that's what caused the notchy feeling in the original design. I didn't use the foam in the performance kit upgrade.
@@anthcesana Are you still not using the PU Foam?
I have been trying different combinations and, am realizing now that I don't want the progressive feel where it gets stiffer as the throw gets deeper. This is why I asked you about getting rid of the PU.
Now, to choose which 2 of the same Bumpers to go with..
@@potvinsuks8730 I don't use V3s anymore.
Ordered Fanatec gear the other day and added the performance kit for the ClubSport V3 pedal set. I'll likely try how they feel out of the box first though as I'm used to a pedal set with a potentiometer, so I have no experience of how a Loadcell brake feels.
Hey Barry,
I've just bought the Clubsport V3 Pedals with the BPK and I wanted to ask you how much difference there is between the "Mid" setting (13mm red and green) and the "Hard" setting (13 and 12mm green) . I was looking for a feeling as close as possible to a GT3 car but was also worried that the "Hard" setting would be to uncomfortable to drive without shoes (as I do most of the time)...
What would you recommend?
Thanks for the great content! Keep it up!
FYI: I just read this in Fanatec v3 pedals manual: "Please add some technical vaseline to the PU foam inside brake pedal if it develops a stuttering feeling. Do not use the lithium grease from ClubSport Pedals V3 box content as this might affect the life time of the PU foam." Of course I read that days after I did just that to the original foam pieces that were in pedals, as I didn't like the very hard feeling of the red rubber in Performance kit box :-O
Thanks for the Allen key trick, was an absolute shit fight getting that pin back in but we made it!
Glad you got it sorted.
Very well done! Because I'm going to switch from an old G25 Pedalset to the Fanatec V3 (and DD1 Wheelbase, delivery date in June'19), I didn't order the performance kit. I would be hard enough for me to deal with the difference between those two pedalsets even without the kit. Perhaps I'll do the upgrade later if I should ever purchase an additional steering wheel.
I wouldn’t be surprised if these were standard on a V4 set, unless they changed their design completely between now and then. But I absolutely agree, they offered the incremental upgrade from the CSW 2 to 2.5, why not have the V3.5 pedals with this mod pre-installed?
The kit is all about allowing the user to adjust the feel of the brake pedal to their own liking. There is not point selling it with the kit installed as to truly get the full benefit you would have to go through all the iterations to find what you like anyway.
they dont spend the extra money for that fancy package. you spend that extra money.
The best money spent for my pedals.
Barry it would be interesting to see if the v3 damper kit would dial it in closer to your preferred pressure. Thanks great review!
This might seem cynical towards Fanatec ( who'm i'm a fan of) but seems that maybe the V3s only came with the softer 60 rated Elastomers knowing they already planned the extra "Performance kit"in order to make some more money , also it means the V3 pedals out of the box would have a softer feel than the CSL LC pedal that come with 65s, 85s and 90 shore rated Elastomers.
Great video :)
10:20 Totally unable to get the screw move a bit. It has been overly tightened...
Received my V3 pedals this week and I have the exact same problem. Did you come up with a solution?
@@sj3296 same problem here, this thing won't move...
@@Valdzor I heated it up with a hair dryer to melt the glue that they used with the screw. Pretty annoying the first time I couldn't get it to twist!
2:36 So the lube reduces "stiction"? I'm guessing that's somewhere between "stick" and "friction". 😀
This is actually word exactly used for such situations. Well-known for example in mountain biking when tuning and servicing dampers and suspension forks. Stiction is a static friction which you must overcome to make something start moving.
Great videos i stumbled upon them after i did my brake kit install but here's a question, what if we use the 2 green ones wittout the small spongy one, and use the pedal travel to tightened the pedal as it is no longer needed for travel .
( i have the 2 green ones because i saw this video after. I haven't used it yet but my pedal has no travel )
Or what that make it too stiff?
Hello thanks for this test video
I want the most softed conbination ,which ill have to take ??
My set screw is impossible to move. Was shocked how easily you turned it. Had to sell the kit as did not want to lose the pedals for 2-3 weeks and having to remove the damper mod...for one screw.
U already have OSW by VRS??? They just announced it as i understand. Review coming?
I’ve had the v3 for some time now and want to upgrade. Should I just buy this or look at the HE sprints?
Any experience with the load cell breaking? Just lost my first one and had to buy a replacements as I was out of warranty Plus Fanatec will not sell me a spare due to limited inventory so have to wait 2-3 weeks shipping if it goes.
It is included now, called the pro set.
I didn't install the foam and it's much better overall I think
Great in depth detailed review as usual! Is it possible to make these mods and adjustments without removing the entire pedal assembly from the rig? Looks like the access to the set screw at the bottom and removing the elastomers while mounted in the rig could be an issue. Thoughts anyone?
I have a question, anyone can answer this. What if you just cut one of the red elastomers to the length of the sponge? Shouldn't that greatly reduce the throw of the pedals?
I’ve seen that done and it does work
did they change the new software where you can set max on the pedals now??
Yes
Hey do you have a video on how to build the SFX-100 and what you need? Can’t find it if you do
They say to NOT apply lube on the PU foam
Excellent review of the kit! Does it matter which diameter rubber is installed first into the barrel? Smaller diameter towards the transducer, or towards the piston rod? I would think it must, because why the different diameters, while their hardness values are so close? Also same question for their hardness values. Softer rubber material first, towards transducer, then progressively stiffer rubber towards the piston?
Hello, are you still satisfied with the two green dampers?
You must have read my mind.... I was thinking lately about buying those xD
There is now a 'tool' included in his kit to facilitate the installation...
What procedure does the tool manage?
Thanks!
Hi Barry, thanks for another great informative video.
I had a question regarding the measurements, you didn’t mention the length of the bushes and the foam insert.
Would it be possible to give us the lengths please?
Thanks again for such great content 🙏
it's usually brake in after 3 hours and then you can adjust it more
I have the opposite issue I have a dead zone I have to push down 80 percent before it starts and I can’t get it to go way
@Sim Racing Garage, Is there an easy way to swap the clutch and break on V3 pedals, I see there are several that have bought this pedal kit, but needs to swap when using Playseat F1 because of its middle rod mount.
Perhaps you could do a video on how to do it?
It seems the issue is that the vibration wire for the brake is too short to do the swap, do you have a solution to this?
how do you set up this rig? im planning to get a vrs osw, cube control wheels, clubsport pedals v3, for my shifter and handbreak i might switch to a better one in the future but for now i think i'll go for the thrustmaster sparco handbreak and its shifter. now the problems is what are the extra that i need to buy to fit all of this to my pc. seeing you most likely have all the sim rigs there is on your garage i assume you got the answers. and do vrs deliver globally? thanks
and a next level racing f-gt and will diy around it to make my osw more stable.
Is it me or did Barry set the pedals up in the "hard" setting with a 13mm and 12mm green insert instead of the "very hard" with two 13mm green inserts?? Also the way that the 12mm works out to be softer than it's 13mm counterpart is the fitment into the pedal rods sleeve. Having not seen these pedals pulled apart I would guess the 13mm inserts are a snug fit and only allow compression of the material. The 12mm insert not only gets compressed but also bulges to give a slightly softer feel.
I agree with that assessment. I did end up putting the extra 13mm bumper in. But in use, I was hard pressed to notice a difference in travel or stiffness.
I want a firm break, but I also want a good amount of room to press it down, I can’t seem to find a good middle, either a I get a lot of room to activate the pedal and it’s very light, or no barely a inch of room of moving the pedal makes it very firm and good feeling, just I would rather have a longer push, it’s just so short when it’s tight
What pedal plates are that on the v3s?
I’m just getting into sim racing, sadly it’s only on PS4 not PC yet. I started with the T150 3pa, and I upgraded to a t300Rs. I understand the importance of good pedals now, I really am considering buying these but if it’s hooked up to a PS4pro is it pointless? Or should I start investing in a PC setup? I love watching your videos too, my youngest son and I love to tinker so he loves watching you too!
When I installed even the softest combination the pedal was rock hard and had about 1mm of travel with extreme pressure, is my kit broken? I replaced them with the two that came with the pedals and it worked again.