Your video was excellant! Just did my friction disc this Sunday morning & followed your instructions. I could NOT get my key to budge without distorting it so I instead cut a quarter by quarter inch knotch to clear it. Also happy to hear you used anti-sieze on the shaft. Makes it much easier to remove next time. I have an issue with the draft control lever not locking in...would like to see what you did to rectify your situation in a video. Thanks much for posting such an informative video. I bought a '46 8N & I'm still going over minor issues as I go along. I'd like to put a volt gauge on it to replace the amp gauge but really can't seem to find good instruction on how to do so? Best of luck with yours & thank you again kindly...God Bless!
Good to hear that you fixed your quadrant. The next time I have the top lid off the tractor I'll make a video on what locks the draft lever in position. To switch to a voltmeter all you have to do is connect the 2 large wires from the amp gauge together then run a small wire from the junction over to the voltmeter. The ammeter carries all the current going back and forth to the battery so by connecting the wires you are just removing the ammeter from the circuit. The voltmeter doesn't carry any current so a small wire running to it is all that's needed.
I'm experiencing the arms coming up even when the control lever is in the down position. I've figured out that the switch on the pump will raise and lower the arms but it seems like the rod on the inside isnt moving
My 1949 8n will only lift the back blade about half way, that's with and without the back blade. Changed hydraulic fluid but made no difference. It has come up all the way , but only twice..in the 2 years I have owned it...any suggestions ?
@@joedirt9600 By quadrant adjustment I'm talking about the 4 bolt plate at the base of the control. Look at 2:35 in the video. That plate moves forward and back and makes big adjustments to what the control lever is doing.
@@xpsgarage it has come all the way to the top twice since I bought it a couple years ago. I understand what you mean now and will check that out..thank you
Think I got the opposite problem, my position control is jerky like when you had the draft control lever partially engaged and it only works properly in the bottom third adjustment on position control (Haven't touched draft control), anything higher and I have to play with the lever to get it to raise
Definitely sounds out of adjustment. I still need to fine tune mine a little more and try to get it perfect. These tractors are so old it's hard to tell what's happened to them in the past.
Your video was excellant! Just did my friction disc this Sunday morning & followed your instructions. I could NOT get my key to budge without distorting it so I instead cut a quarter by quarter inch knotch to clear it. Also happy to hear you used anti-sieze on the shaft. Makes it much easier to remove next time. I have an issue with the draft control lever not locking in...would like to see what you did to rectify your situation in a video. Thanks much for posting such an informative video. I bought a '46 8N & I'm still going over minor issues as I go along. I'd like to put a volt gauge on it to replace the amp gauge but really can't seem to find good instruction on how to do so? Best of luck with yours & thank you again kindly...God Bless!
Good to hear that you fixed your quadrant. The next time I have the top lid off the tractor I'll make a video on what locks the draft lever in position. To switch to a voltmeter all you have to do is connect the 2 large wires from the amp gauge together then run a small wire from the junction over to the voltmeter. The ammeter carries all the current going back and forth to the battery so by connecting the wires you are just removing the ammeter from the circuit. The voltmeter doesn't carry any current so a small wire running to it is all that's needed.
I'm experiencing the arms coming up even when the control lever is in the down position. I've figured out that the switch on the pump will raise and lower the arms but it seems like the rod on the inside isnt moving
If the inner control rod isn't moving with the quadrant lever then I would pull the top cover and see if something is broken.
My 1949 8n will only lift the back blade about half way, that's with and without the back blade. Changed hydraulic fluid but made no difference. It has come up all the way , but only twice..in the 2 years I have owned it...any suggestions ?
Can you make it come up farther by moving the quadrant adjustment?
@@xpsgarage no the control will go all the way up and down. But the arms only come up half way.. with or without a load.
@@joedirt9600 By quadrant adjustment I'm talking about the 4 bolt plate at the base of the control. Look at 2:35 in the video. That plate moves forward and back and makes big adjustments to what the control lever is doing.
@@xpsgarage it has come all the way to the top twice since I bought it a couple years ago. I understand what you mean now and will check that out..thank you
Think I got the opposite problem, my position control is jerky like when you had the draft control lever partially engaged and it only works properly in the bottom third adjustment on position control (Haven't touched draft control), anything higher and I have to play with the lever to get it to raise
Definitely sounds out of adjustment. I still need to fine tune mine a little more and try to get it perfect. These tractors are so old it's hard to tell what's happened to them in the past.
Can you please let me know the name of that cork you put in because that is my problem. Thank you.
Google "8N hydraulic control friction disk" and you will find lots of sources. I think I bought mine from Steiner.