Thanks for the video. For those asking why not remove the whole thing and work it’s really not necessary. It’s also nice to have the motor mounted to remove the top cap with spanner wrench to give you leverage and torque. One thing is that it’s fairly common to have everything work fine but have a slow leak from the top seal and makes a mess under it. You also lose function of trim even you lose enough fluid. With that said if you go thru all this you need to remove the three t20 screws and replace the internal seal on the top cylinder cap.
Good video but let me add when removing the motor there is a small drive gear that will fall out. I lost mine but made a new one from a allen wrench. That's all it was anyway. Another thing is there is more o-rings too on these parts. The top cap has a inside o-ring as well. To get the top cap off to replace the inside o-ring the bottom piston needs to be removed. It has a plate with three star screws but be careful removing it because there is small springs on 5 locations ball seats and bearings to remove and put in a bag so they don't get lost. Put the rod in a vise and use the pin spanner to remove that piston the same way as the top cap. Now you can remove and replace all the outer and inner o-rings plus the last memory piston that this video shows to pop out. When you put the bottom piston back on the rod lock tight as required per the mercury maintenance manual.
Hi Ryan, without looking at it could be a few things but sounds like air in the system. You need to follow the steps and one important one is filling the cylinder halfway up or 3" from the top before putting the parts back in. Watch my video and maybe there was a step you missed. ruclips.net/video/fGk4nJXEIDQ/видео.html
Thanks to this video i did it. I used a spanner wrench ( a must). Dave is correct that one can use the power up to push out the main piston, but i added ATF to get it to pressure up,. I also used a rubber mallet and hit the case at the point of the piston. Yes it popped out. Ok the seals were hard (old) and the main piston seal had about five scratches on that piston. so i would say that you got to replace all 3 seals. I got to get the fluid and bleed. I would get the mercury fluid and not use ATF, mercury is clear. Thanks Dave.
yes i did Scott, thanx, never saw that one in my searches before, dont know about yours but mine was on crazy tight such that i got a mechanic friend to build me a tool out of flat iron that he cut a notch out of to fit around piston length, and put two bolts into that to get the top off
What size is your motor because your tilt trim looks like the same size as mine. My motor is a 40 hp mercury force outboard. I need to replace the top gasket leaking fluid out of the top. I really like your videos.
When I popped out the 3rd O-ring, I "ever so gently" used the power up tilt to pop it out. Wouldn't budge at first, but when it did, whoa, came out at warp speed and could've killed. So be careful with that way to get that bottom one out.
This was almost a fantastic video. But I'm sitting here screaming at you to AIM THE CAMERA AT THE PART YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT ("this little part right HERE ...") but you keep on not listening to me! Nevertheless, the video was helpful, so you get a like. Thanks. :)
Do you have to put the ram out to get the top cap off? I have a 90hp that has a leak I believe it is the top seal not o rings but not sure how to replace it hard to find parts as well
seals/orings are really cheap if you just get them out first and then go to a local seal company and have them match new ones up to the orginals, way cheaper than buying them in a mercury package, just make sure you tell them what they will be used for so they are compatible with the fluid used, ie they need to be compatible with power transmission fluid
another thing, its pretty much imperative to bleed the system when the arm is disconnected from supporting the engine weight, i tried to do it without disengaging, which means lifting the weight of that engine a number of times, i'm in pretty good shape and a big guy but its brutal after a while, definitely way easier and much quicker success to do it with the wires connected but no weight on the ram, as per Scott above not sure you have to use actual tilt fluid, i use regular atf and it seems to work fine for me, if anyone is having trouble getting the cap loosened to actually open up the cylinder in the beginning email me at mikeboston19@gmail.com and i'll send you a pic of a tool i had made to help with that job, thanx to the original poster for posting this vid, helped me realize i needed to change the seal on the unattached disc that was pushed out by using the trim motor to help, had no idea that was in there, thanx again
last one, haha, here's a strong cheap spanner wrench Scott above used and made me aware of www.amazon.com/Farmunion-Sprockets-Spanner-Locking-Adjustable/dp/B01N1LJDZH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awdb_dz_t1s_wusOBbFHM2CE4_tt
Thanks for the video. For those asking why not remove the whole thing and work it’s really not necessary. It’s also nice to have the motor mounted to remove the top cap with spanner wrench to give you leverage and torque. One thing is that it’s fairly common to have everything work fine but have a slow leak from the top seal and makes a mess under it. You also lose function of trim even you lose enough fluid. With that said if you go thru all this you need to remove the three t20 screws and replace the internal seal on the top cylinder cap.
Good video but let me add when removing the motor there is a small drive gear that will fall out. I lost mine but made a new one from a allen wrench. That's all it was anyway. Another thing is there is more o-rings too on these parts. The top cap has a inside o-ring as well. To get the top cap off to replace the inside o-ring the bottom piston needs to be removed. It has a plate with three star screws but be careful removing it because there is small springs on 5 locations ball seats and bearings to remove and put in a bag so they don't get lost. Put the rod in a vise and use the pin spanner to remove that piston the same way as the top cap. Now you can remove and replace all the outer and inner o-rings plus the last memory piston that this video shows to pop out. When you put the bottom piston back on the rod lock tight as required per the mercury maintenance manual.
You my friend have gone above and beyond the call of duty👏👏👏👏👏you took the words out of my mouth.
I rebuilt mine and now it won’t go down. Goes up fine but has resistance down any ideas
Hi Ryan, without looking at it could be a few things but sounds like air in the system. You need to follow the steps and one important one is filling the cylinder halfway up or 3" from the top before putting the parts back in. Watch my video and maybe there was a step you missed.
ruclips.net/video/fGk4nJXEIDQ/видео.html
Nice work on the trim ram mate. Thanks for making it simple.
Thanks to this video i did it. I used a spanner wrench ( a must). Dave is correct that one can use the power up to push out the main piston, but i added ATF to get it to pressure up,. I also used a rubber mallet and hit the case at the point of the piston. Yes it popped out. Ok the seals were hard (old) and the main piston seal had about five scratches on that piston. so i would say that you got to replace all 3 seals. I got to get the fluid and bleed. I would get the mercury fluid and not use ATF, mercury is clear. Thanks Dave.
could you show a pic of the spanner wrench you used? or part number? or send me a pic at mikeboston19@gmail.com, thanx in advance
Did you get my share from amazon, which showed the order and Pic?
yes i did Scott, thanx, never saw that one in my searches before, dont know about yours but mine was on crazy tight such that i got a mechanic friend to build me a tool out of flat iron that he cut a notch out of to fit around piston length, and put two bolts into that to get the top off
Where did you get your spanner wrench. Having hard time finding one.
@@alengling5973 i forgot u want it
What size is your motor because your tilt trim looks like the same size as mine. My motor is a 40 hp mercury force outboard. I need to replace the top gasket leaking fluid out of the top. I really like your videos.
When I popped out the 3rd O-ring, I "ever so gently" used the power up tilt to pop it out. Wouldn't budge at first, but when it did, whoa, came out at warp speed and could've killed. So be careful with that way to get that bottom one out.
mine won’t do anything & I’m holding the trim up button? what am I doing wrong
This was almost a fantastic video. But I'm sitting here screaming at you to AIM THE CAMERA AT THE PART YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT ("this little part right HERE ...") but you keep on not listening to me! Nevertheless, the video was helpful, so you get a like. Thanks. :)
Always fill to the top before putting it back on.
You can change the very top seal the one in the cap you can get the seal kit off of 5 star Marine
Do you have to put the ram out to get the top cap off? I have a 90hp that has a leak I believe it is the top seal not o rings but not sure how to replace it hard to find parts as well
Thank you,
If the hydraulic cylinder doesn't leak , is it still necessary to change the seals ? The motor is over 20 years old.
I see no reason to mess with any of this if there’s no leak.
Do you happen to have a part number for the replacement seals? I am working on a 91 Mercury 100.
No response in 4 years? I’m doing mine
Estaría bueno saber cómo de sarmaste el vastago
not easier to pull the whole thing off the motor so its free of everything to work on?
Take it all off then genius
@@Reddirtrelichunters i did, it was way easier, clown
How’d you get the second seal off the ram?
How do you remove the bottom ram if it will not power up with motor?
did you figure it out? my won’t come out with trim up button
Price on parts ?
It was like 35 for the plug and 12 for the seals
seals/orings are really cheap if you just get them out first and then go to a local seal company and have them match new ones up to the orginals, way cheaper than buying them in a mercury package, just make sure you tell them what they will be used for so they are compatible with the fluid used, ie they need to be compatible with power transmission fluid
another thing, its pretty much imperative to bleed the system when the arm is disconnected from supporting the engine weight, i tried to do it without disengaging, which means lifting the weight of that engine a number of times, i'm in pretty good shape and a big guy but its brutal after a while, definitely way easier and much quicker success to do it with the wires connected but no weight on the ram, as per Scott above not sure you have to use actual tilt fluid, i use regular atf and it seems to work fine for me, if anyone is having trouble getting the cap loosened to actually open up the cylinder in the beginning email me at mikeboston19@gmail.com and i'll send you a pic of a tool i had made to help with that job, thanx to the original poster for posting this vid, helped me realize i needed to change the seal on the unattached disc that was pushed out by using the trim motor to help, had no idea that was in there, thanx again
last one, haha, here's a strong cheap spanner wrench Scott above used and made me aware of
www.amazon.com/Farmunion-Sprockets-Spanner-Locking-Adjustable/dp/B01N1LJDZH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awdb_dz_t1s_wusOBbFHM2CE4_tt
Jerry just finished mine today, the three orings inside the assembly cost me just over $3 Canadian total, $1.18 x 2, plus $0.73 for the top thin one
STEADY CAM!