Mora Robust Pro vs High Q Robust (Polskie Napisy)
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- Опубликовано: 20 фев 2015
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Complying with a viewer's request, I present an old mora high q robust vs a new mora robust pro.
Fighting out of the 'old' corner!
This knife sports a 3 mm thick and 102 mm (4") long blade made out of 1095 high carbon steel.
Fighting out of the 'new' corner!
This knife also has a 3mm thick but shorter, 93 mm (3.75") long blade made out of the same steel.
The other differences between these competitors include sheaths and handles. Which does a better job carving wood and making feather sticks? Does the new handle have any advantages? What's with the new sheath? What are the pros and cons of the new Mora Pro?
Zapraszam na małą recenzję i porównanie starej i nowej Mory High Q Robust i Mory Robust Pro. Który z noży nadaje się lepiej do strugania drewna? Który ma lepszą rękojeść i jak sprawuje się nowa pochwa? Zaprawasz do oglądania. 
Развлечения
Great comparison. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this. The other reviews that I've seen didn't cover the issue of gaps in the handle or differences in the grind. This is very useful information.
Thanks. I am a bit picky when it comes to my knives and will pick on things like tiny little gaps, which won't leave me alone lol
I always appreciate your no nonsense, objective reviews. It is obvious that you actually spend time in the woods with your equipment. I trust your reviews.
Thank you. That means a lot.
Great review,sharpest knife out of the box.Try the Martini bush craft knife.I like my HELLe and MORA knives.
Dzięki za film! Jeszcze nie obejrzałem, ale łapka poszła w ciemno.
Nie ma sprawy :) Dzięki.
Great info and comparison ! thanks for sharing
atb john
Great comparison review!
seattwa Thank you.
One little advice, never shake the sheath with knife inside against the table. I did it once, Mora fell off the sheath and I hit the tip with my wrist. Yeah, some blood was spilled for sure.
My first Mora drew first blood on me too. I am now much more careful with all my knives.
Thank you for your tip, useful! Take care👍🤗
Good review. Still can't decide anyway but thank you
+Irish Proc You're welcome and thanks for watching :)
Great modifications! I will try it on my Robusts. Just a comment on the quality shortages found in this video: Mora Robust is primarily designed to be a work knife. It just happens to have the right steel, blade quality and thickness for bushcraft applications as well. All those improvements which were done in the video are not needed in the Mora Bushcraft series. Mora Bushcraft keep same blade thickness but has none of the shortages shown in this video. In a sharp situation I recommend bringing a Mora Bushcraft instead. In everyday usage though, with the risk of losing the knife, breaking it or just wearing it out so it is not in a good shape when really needed Mora Robust is the best low cost alternative I know. It´s a cheaper sheath and handle with same old Mora blade quality which you can afford to make mistakes with. I am using my Robust knives often in the forests and just like you Simon I love to make modifications. That's why I find this video genius. Thanks!
Thank you. Of course I realize these are incredibly cheap knives and that's one reason I'm not afraid to mess with them and modify them so much. Thanks for watching.
nice job. thanks for posting.
Sure thing. Thanks for watching :)
Great channel!
Thanks
Świetna recenzja! Zastanawiałem się nad zakupem Robusta w nowej odsłonie ale chyba zrezygnuje z zakupu. Posiadam Hultaforsa GK (zresztą pomarańczową FK też mam) i daje on znakomicie sobie radę z różnymi pracami z drzewem, na wyprawach w lesie, itp. A jest z budowy podobny do tej nowej Mory. Jeszcze raz dzięki za dokładne porównanie obu Robustów. Czekam na kolejne filmy i recenzje.
Maciek G. Dzięki. Cieszę się, że się podobało :) Nowe rzeczy już się kręcą.
I love the HQ for carving. Thumb rotating cuts are a must for me. I wish the Garberg would have been the HQ with a full tang. Perhaps the same grind angle as the new one.
Great, i subscribed
Dzięki twojemu filmikowi zdecydowałem się na starszego Robusta... Dzisiaj do mnie doszedł. Dla czego nie wybrałem nowego modelu?!
- kształt ostrza (zbyt Hultajowy, czubek jest za mało ostry - co zdaje się utrudniać precyzyjną pracę)
- ostrze ma 94mm długości, przy 105mm u poprzednika
- pochwa (jest większa i brzydsza od tej starszej wersji)
- za wielki jelec (przesadzili totalnie)
Jedyne co przemawiało za modelem z 2015 roku był ładniejszy wygląd... i tyle.
Jeszcze raz dzięki za materiał!
Cieszę się, że mogłem pomóc. Dzięki i niech ci nowa (stara) Mora służy jak najdłużej :)
I have the Robust Pro, it does not have any gaps where the blade joins the handle.
I never paid atention to my Mora robust before but now I checked it and it does have little gaps on each side of the blade too... I wanna do the same and put some wax on them. But I will try something different: I'll use melted bee wax cause I think that the liquid can penetrate better into the gaps. I'll just checked it out how it goes!
I just checked my two Companions and they have absolutely no gap.
If they did I would have gotten glue in there.
great video im glad to see a mora lover just subscribed.on. my moras i add a small secondary bevel so i dont have to remove so much metal to sharpen and it gives the edge a little more strength 👍
+California Bushcraft Those are precisely the reasons why I convex my edges :) By the way, how big would you say is bushcraft community in California? I'm moving there soon but haven't seen a lot of California bushcraft channels. Thanks for watching. Subscribed back.
its easy to sort out the friction in the sheet, simply put some black electrical tape on the inside of the sheet on the back side of the knife, just to keep adding layers of electrical tape until you get the friction you want, then just cut the tape along the edge of the sheeth and your done, as making the sheet tighter on the backside will force the knife forward towards the retention knob,, that way you don't have to wrap tape on the knife and you wont even notice its been fixed, I do it all the time on my mora work knives and it works like a charm.
SignedSign That's actually what I eventually did with this and some other poorly holding sheaths :) Although, I used hockey tape, as it's softer and seems to hold better. Thanks
electrical tape sticks like shit though
At 11:45 you say that the beeswax will not reach the bottom of the gap - and that is true, so I prefer to use linseed oil instead of beeswax. This oil will reach the bottom of the gap and will harden over time as linseed oil is a hardening oil due to its polymerisation.
Does the Holtafors come with a gap between the handle and blade like the Mora and with a flattened spine? I know the Mora HD's and Robust are cheaper than the Mora BC Black, however I have to Dremel down the spines and seal the blade gap with epoxy which takes 24hrs to dry.. I too always have to modify anything I buy, at a bare minimum it's removing a secondary microbevel.. If the Holtafors doesn't have the blade/handle gap, I'll def be picking one up.Thanks again for all of the great videos!
***** As far as I can tell, there are no gaps neither in Hultafors nor Mora HD or the old Mora Robust. The spine of the Hultafors is sharper but requires work too. It is the cheapest knife out of all we've mentioned here though. Thanks for watching :)
Thanks Simon. I wish I could post a picture on here, all of my Mora Companion HD's have a small gap between the handle and the blade. Rather than using Bee's Wax to fill the gap, I use epoxy instead. Just like in your vid, I too don't want any rust or bacteria growing in those gaps. I think all of the new Mora Robust and Companions have this small gap issue due to going to the 3.2mm blade vs the older versions of 2-2.5mm. Anyhow, if Hultafors doesn't have this issue its one less modification to have to make and a plus in my book! Thanks again Simon, love all of the informative vids!
Filmik w porządku. Kupiłem nową Morę Robust w tym tygodniu i trochę się przeliczyłem. Ślizga mi się w łapie i nie wiem jak będzie "chodzić" na mokro. Z wyglądu ciekawie, a "w boju" to się okaże.
Ciekawy kanał. Widziałem dopiero kilka filmów, ale same testy sprzętu. Zrób coś z technik "leśno-bushcraftowych". Widzę, że masz wiedzę, więc się nią podziel :)
Pozdrawiam.
Dzięki. Mam kilka filmików z technikami rozpalania ognia krzesiwem współczesnym, kowalskim, czy łukiem ogniowym. Niektóre są faktycznie trochę stare i pewnie nieco mniej atrakcyjne, no i nie mają napisów. Mam w przygotowaniu kilka instruktaży, bo zdaje sobię sprawę, że w swoich dotychczasowych filmikach traktuję temat pobierznie i nie skupiam się na szczegółach.
Dzięki raz jeszcze i pozdrawiam.
Simon's Discoveries Spoko Szymon. Daj mi czas, a obejrzę wszystkie :) Trzymaj się.
Great comparison. I also have all three knives, Robust, Robust Pro, Hultafors GK. I don't understand why they made the sheath attachment button not compatible. I sanded mine down so if I want to attache a 511 to it I can.The Gaps I filled with thick Cyno (super glue). The handle is a bit short and not as comfortable as the old one, of course that's opinion.
I to like the Hultafors its a beast of a knife. Have you done a rough use test with it?
falcon1487 Hi. Yes I did some pull-ups and batoning here
ruclips.net/video/LdahXnJTDy4/видео.html
I prefer the older model. Statically more pleasant to me. I don’t need those very pronounced guards. And I like the longer blade. But those 2 mm more of broadness is good. So, Mora Companion HD would be my choice in this range.
And the palmer is not for hammering sticks or nails. Not on this knife nor on any others. Different palmers have various capabilities, some are for crushing, some for self defence, some are glass breakers, some for scraping, some good for nuts, and some serve as hammer/mallet taking parts.
Robust is under 10 cm because Swedish law. You are not allowed to where a knife in public over 10 cm . So if You work at a construction site and go to lunch You have to put away Your knife if it's longer then 10 cm. Out in the busch or home You can use whatever length You like.
I prefer my GK fore the same reasons and I also hate gaps for the same reasons. I fill them up dripping super glue in there till they are totally filled up.
Using metric is not for the European guys but for the whole world except USA, Liberia and Myanmar. These are the only 3 countries in the world that officially use the imperial system, but US military ground forces and NASA use metric also.
To bad both the Hultafors GK and the Mora Robust don't come in stainless versions. I do prefer my food prep knife in stainless. But both have thinner blade stainless versions so I team them up.
All in all a good review.
can i ask what it is you have done to your knife sheaths with the paracord and fire steel?
+Lewis Fromholc Sure. I turned the mora into 'the ultimate survival knife' ;) I even have a video on that
ruclips.net/video/v3zCadlqnzg/видео.html
Thanks for watching.
+Simon's Discoveries thanks very much 😊
Great video & comparison, my friend! I really dont have interest in the new Robust due to the fact that I think the classic Robust is one of the best bushcraft knives on the market. I think the handle on the classic Robust is outstanding with the palm swell. I enjoyed this, Simon! -Dave
I'm glad you did. Thank you :)
+HighCarbonSteel Love & +Simon's Discoveries After watching videos from both of you, I finally pulled the trigger & bought & More Robust last night on eBay -- & I bought the classic, not the new version. Of course if it doesn't work out, I'm blaming you for that whopping expenditure ($14.39 on the bay, shipping included, sheesh!). I recently picked up a Pro C in carbon steel, & it's already feeling like it will be one of my favorite carving knives -- though thanks to another of your videos Simon, I'll look out for that edge rolling... (And that Hultafors Robust, no idea why I haven't bought it yet.) Simon I think I found my way over to your channel from one of Dave's videos -- I already like Dave a lot, seems like one of the nicest, most humble guys out there doing bushcrafting videos, & I'm glad I found your channel as well; I appreciate hosts that are more down to earth.
David Huber Thank you for such kind words, my friend! Glad to hear you picked up the Robust! You are going to love it! Take care! -Dave
David Huber Thank you. I'm really glad some of my findings turned out to be useful. I like +HighCarbonSteel Love 's videos too. Unfortunately, I can't watch and comment on every single one of them, now that I'm getting a new apartment, looking for a car and what not... But I do watch Dave's reviews and tips :)
That model requires so much modification for woods use because its a construction knife. Mora didnt expect people would want to take it out to the woods and process food with it.
They should know it by now ;) But seriously, it only needs those mods because I think it needs them. Other people may have other needs and opinions.
Thanks for watching.
Great Info and a great Video Thanks Guido
I'm glad you liked it :)
High Q robust is old version of Mora companion heavy duty.
Yes it is.
Get a heat gun and try remolding the sheath to fit better. I wouldn’t pound on anything with a knife that doesn’t have a full tang. Yours is the 1st review I’ve seen that even mentioned these gaps. I don’t know if it wasn’t important to the others or if theirs didn’t have gaps.
skąd masz takie wielkie krzesiwo?
where abouts are you moving? and i would say at least here in ventura county it is very minimal. the major people i would know of is the knife maker of sargent edge tools. so i havnt found anyone. just myself and anyone i teach
+California Bushcraft I'll be in bay area so a bit farther north.
I know thisis an older video, but since you modify all your knives, maybe it will help. I saw a video, the dude batoned the knife partially into a larger log end. It made a temporary vice for field sharpening of the spine...hope it helps.
+feellnfroggy Yup. I've been doing that for a while. Saw it on a friends channel. Thank you. It's a good field method.
Maybe it goes against the whole idea of getting inexpensive knives, but I'd pretty much buy all three... the old one, the new one, and the Hultafors. lol
Sure by that time the price would be around $40 or so USD, but I'd have three fine knives at my disposal to use. If there was one I preferred, then I'd have two very nice backups. ;)
***** I think it isn't such a bad idea. It'd still be cheaper than a single, sometimes even less reliable, knife :)
Thanks for watching.
A co sądzisz o wymuszaniu patyny? Ostatnio moje morki ugotowałem w occie i w sumie nabrały przykrego "węglowego" zapachu. Więcej jest plusów cz minusów? Następnym razem chyba wezmę nierdzewkę, bo nie trzeba się nad niczym zastanawiać xD
+seastian Nierdzewka może się łatwiej złamać. Ale to zależy do czego jej używasz. Ja patynę nakładałem na zimno. Też octem ale używałem też oksydy na zimno do luf broni palnej. Ten zapach po occie szybko znika (ten z oksydy juz nie tak szybko). Musisz dać się tej patynie utrwalić. Na początku nawet łatwo ją zetrzeć czy zadrapać po pary dniach już znacznie trudniej.
My brand new Craftline Robust came with a noticeably crooked blade... Look down the from the pommel, and it curved to the right... I know it's just an inexpensive knife, just the same it should have never left Sweden with a blade mounted this poorly.
I've replaced all of my carbon steel Hultafors GK with stainless Moras. The Hultafors are now serving toolbox duty. Every Hultafors was way too hard to keep sharp and blade care is excessive. Handles are slippery.
@Szymon Saski Sprzedaje takie
+Simon's Discoveries odpowiadam późno lecz mam pytanie gdzie je sprzedajesz?
Szymon Saski Wtedy sprzedawałem jak byłem w Polsce. Teraz jestem w Stanach więc wysyłka byłby za droga :)
hi my friend is the bee wax been hold up ok , wen you clean your knife with water o wen the temperature out side is hot the wax stay in side o not , the reason i ask is because i have the same problem with my new MORA COMPANION MG ROBUST ,and i will like to fix , is any other solution can be use to fix the problem , please let me no thanks
VITO LAGINESTRA Hello. The bees wax should hold up just fine, unless there's like 45 Celsius. Hasn't happened to me so far. Water doesn't bother it at all , unless it's boiling hot or you stick it in a dish washer, which I wouldn't recommend with a carbon steel knife anyway.
I guess you could melt plastic or resin or use epoxy to fill the gaps too. It'll take a bit more time and effort but it'll probably last longer.
thanks my friend ,all the best from AUSTRALIA
I use clear fingernail polish to fill the bolster of the handle . Grizz 🐻
So the High Q Robust is great or good?
+Lee Noble Depends on your personal preference. Thanks for watching.
K thank
Do you have Mora Companion Heavy Duty ? Which is better ? Mora Robust or Mora Robust PRO or Mora Companion Heavy Duty ?
HipekPL I do. Mora High Q Robust and Companion Heavy Duty are essentially the same knives in slightly different sheath. The only difference between the knives themselves is the handle colour.
They're all good knives. I couldn't tell you which one is better because it would just be my personal preferences. I like the new Mora, but for some tasks the old one is better. Today, for example, I chose it to open a coconut because its blade is narrower, which makes it perfect for the job.
Thanks. You are the best channel about knives. Sorry for my English , but i from Poland :) . See you
HipekPL Thanks. I'm from Poland too :) Możesz pisać po polsku, chociaż angielski masz bez zarzutu :) Dzięki.
Spoko. Po prostu się uczę Angielskiego , a tak mogę się sprawdzić.
I prefer the way the old one cuts. The new one bites too deep for me. Biting in is not very godo for fine carving, and least in my hands.
+James Ritchie It also makes the edge weaker. That's why I had to convex it slightly.
***** I have it the other way around. An axe may have a 27 degree edge but on each side :) If axes had as sharp-angled edges as mora knives, with their typically much lower hardness, those edges wouldn't las one blow.
Now if u only knew the correct way to use a file. Lol
Ed Keane I admit, I don't have a certificate. I'm happy as long as it does what I need it to do, and it doesn't hurt me in the process.Thanks for watching.
Yak yak yak
a extra note, those ultra cheap moras is not for use in the woods, they are meant as a one time disposable carpenter knife and they rarely gets used more than a month or two before they are replaced, for forest use you should spend few more bucks and get a mora bushcraft black or similar instead, as they are designed for use in the woods, and you wont think twice about spending those extra bucks once you used it as its 10 times better and just significantly more costly.
Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching.
One thing i don't quite understand is why would I wanna dispose off a knife that, after two years of hard use can still withstand this ruclips.net/video/Ds-2hYXAXDc/видео.html
I have honestly never heard of anyone replacing a Mora robust after a month. Unless of course, they purposely broke it. I'm not being mean but, as far as structure and materials go, mora robust and nora bushcraft black are exactly the same knives. The only difference is a few millimetres longer blade, slightly different shape and colour. Ok, the sheath's different too.
Simon's Discoveries Moras are very durable, but when I say they were originally designed as carpenter or workman knifes is cause in sweden carpenters have been using moras for decades ever since the classic series and hence some moras only comes with the button attachement and not the belt loop due to the fact that mostly carpenters buy them.
As on swedish work wear we got a button to attach the sheets in the button holder, and the way we use moras would make you cringe.. we scrape paint, glue, hammer them through wood with steel hammers, use them as small crowbars, ram them into the steel socket in doors and use them as door handles before the handles are mounted etc etc, so after 1-2 month of use the edges are usually totally ruined with 1-2 mm pieces missing from the edge, and due to their cheap price its simply just easier (and cheaper counting man hours to resharpen) to buy a new one than make a complete resotration of the edge, so most carpenters only use them until they are dull and then simply dispose of them, thats swedish mora knife culture.
alltho personally I usually resharpen them a couple of times before disposing of them so for me personally they usually last 3-6 month.
But as a sidenote: the way we use them wears them out in 1-2 month as its total hardcore use, but normal use would make them last several years, but for swedish carpenters they will still be cheap disposible knives, as they are cheaper to replace than spend the work hours to restore them.
(1 work hour will earn us enough cash to buy 6+ brand new moras, so if it takes 20 mins to resharpen one old mora.. just to do the math lol)
SignedSign That makes sense now :) I also heard these knives are much cheaper over there than anywhere else. I think I once saw an entire box of moras for £10, whereas here, in England, you have to pay this much for one. Is that still the case in Sweden? I'm assuming you're Swedish, not sure if that's correct.
Yeah, I'm alway so annoyed by those button slots. No use for them as far as my trousers are concerned :)
Simon's Discoveries yup, I'm swedish and own a construction company and the way we use moras would make all mora fans have nightmares as we put them through proper torture tests over the 1-2 month we use them before buying a new one.
And moras are real cheap over here, specially since they are often sold with discount and no sales tax to companies.
You can easily make your own button holder for a mora, simply buy a jeans front button and attach it wherever you want to hook up your mora in the button holder, as on work wear it simply is a jeans front button that holds them, and they are easy to install, just need a hammer, great if you want to fasten your mora on a leg side pocket for example, fasten the button on the leg pocket lid at the far back side and make a textile loop that you can slide the sheet into about 12 cm below the button and your done, then you got yourself a swedish work wear knife holder with easy access even with a long jacket on as the knife would be on your thigh.
SignedSign I did make something like you're describing. I'll post a picture later. But the button doesn't fit perfectly and I don't use it that often. Instead, I most often cut these belt loops and install regular loops, which I make myself, or wear them as neck knives.
It might be worth remembering that these knives are not meant for bushcrafting or food prep. They're simply working mens tools for hard use on building sites, load storage, warehousing and so on. At the price they're more or less 'disposable'. Melting bees wax into tiny gaps and adding paracord, ferro-rods, fish hooks etc is plain silly. Just buy a different knife that's more suitable for the task.
There's nothing wrong with using these knives for whatever you like. I also don't see a problem with customising these or any other knife if you choose to do so.
@@SimonsDiscoveries Each to his own I guess Simon but I can't help thinking it's like prepping a London bus for the Dakar rally.
I'd agree if bushcraft was a competition ;)
Nie wiem po co w recenzji takie szczegóły jak cięcie kartki. Po co to komu taka ostrość chyba tylko tym którzy skórują zwierzynę.
+Erich Holtz Każdemu kto pracuje w drewnie. Wie to każdy, kto pracuje w drewnie :)
To nie wiem w czym ja tyle lat pracowałem. Może to nie było drewno!?
Erich Holtz Może nie było. Wszyscy od bushcraftowców takich jak Mors Kochanski po rzeźbiarzy takich jak Wille Sundqvist zaznaczają, że nóż który nie jest w stanie gładko ciąć papieru, nie nadaje się do strugania.
No właśnie! Jak ktoś rzeźbi w drewnie to może mu się przydać taka ostrość noża. Ja nigdy na to nie zwracałem uwagi
+Simon's Discoveries Po tym wpisie pobiegłem sprawdzić, czy moje noże, których używam w terenie przejdą ten test kartki - okazało się, że przeszły wszystkie, (nawet te z nierdzewki) oprócz jednego, którego nie umiałem znaleźć.
I don't baton with any knife. Never have, and never will. Batoning is why God invented hatchets. A knife is for cutting, not beating with a club, and not for chopping. Nothing I've found cuts better than the Mora HighQ Robust. RUclips is not a very good place to learn about how to use a knife properly. It's all incest, bad habits passed around in a never ending circle. Two hundred or four hundred, or five hundred dollar knives are beautiful, great for collectors, but no better than a Mora for real knife use. No one who really knows how to use a knife needs an expensive knife for bushcraft or survival. It's amazing how two thousand years worth of real bush craft and knife used have been forgotten because of RUclips. I guess very few grew up actually living the life, and not many actually read books now.
James Ritchie Good comment. Even though I own some expensive knives and enjoy them, there is little in real life that a mora and an inexpensive hatchet e.g. Fiskars can't do better than a knife alone.
woooow okay
You are 100% right, but the biggest problem is, that most people believe adertisments and what RUclips marketing says and not the truth which is what you say. At last a human, that can see the truth! is what I said,after reading your comment!!
Why so much bad things about this knife the old moras are way uglier than new