As a carpenter I use a hultafors gk daily and I can tell you it has went through some unbelievable abuse from cutting lead to being hit hard on the spine with a 24oz estwing hammer, used as a chisel, sharpened with sanders, oil stones, diamond stones, glass, and ceramic rods its has rusted and been cleaned up with sandpaper. It looks like it has been through several wars and it still preforms. the handle (very comfortable) has never cracked or the blade has never moved. It is easy to get razor sharp, and I mean razor. I have moras including the bushcraft black which I love. But as for value, at least in the uk nothing beats the hultafors gk...
Same in Germany. Mora Pro Robust 15,95€ incl. taxes (local retailer) Hultafors Heavy Duty (Grobmesser GK) 7,84€ incl. taxes (local retailer) The Hultafors is just incredibly priced. Bought a Hultafors, haven´t really used it yet, but I´m sure it will hold up. My old Mora Clipper sure did fine even with heavy batoning where a much more expensive full tang knife ... Nieto I think ... failed (too deep hollow grind).
Reminds me of a carpenter I know who used his Hulta to declogg a sewer and later during lunch break used the same knife to cut his sousage. He just wiped the knife on his pants to get it "clean". He was always dirty but never sick!
When starting the first Bushcraft Association back in 2011 Hultafors gave me a GK for testing. After the initial tests it became the instructors knife. All instructors used it hard and it never failed. I still have my very first still in use. I have nothing bad to say about Mora, but for my hands I prefer the Hultafors GK. I love the big handle that's easy to clean.
Stop constantly changing your name on youtube and commenting on every video. People are not watching your channel anyways because you are a rude annoying person.
Great review, I also own and use both and have found same as you . I do like the Mora better due to better carving , handle ergonomics and lower price in my area. I don't baton very much due to abundance of materials were I go, and even if I do it's just small stuff to get to dry kindling. Less than a minute of stropping is enough to get it razor sharp again. Again both great knives for price.
Excellent Video! I've owned a Hultafors Knife for about 5-6 years and it is still in great shape and very sharp. The handle fits me just right. The blade might be the easiest to sharpen of all my knives. I might perform a mod on the sheath. Perhaps the company will focus a little more attention on the sheath's belt loop. Great extra knife for outdoors or a bugout bag. The knife is a bonus for a tool box.
Just found your channel. Great video! Concise, to the point, and not weighted down with flowery talk and personal opinions like some guys' videos. I appreciate that straightforward style. I subscribed. Keep up the good work!! Have a wonderful New Year.
As I mentioned two years ago I prefer the Hultafors. That handle is great for my hand. I did decide after watching this video again to also get me a Mora Robust and the main reason is the way better belt clip on the sheath.
@@SimonsDiscoveries I know. I've told the distributor many times Hultafors really need to upgrade their sheaths. They have decent retention but for the rest they suck.
I don't know when they did it but I got a Hultafors recently and it still has the belt clip that most people seem not to like but it also has a belt loop so you can just slide it on a belt. The belt loop works well so that difference I think no longer applies.
@@darkcircle899 That change came when they introduced the Hulatfors OK1 and OK 4. They come with this belt loop but they don't sell the belt loops seperately. Of course you can make a belt loop with a button.
I have the Hultafors OK1 and OK4 and also the Mora Robust. I prefer the Hultafors knives. It seems to be they are more "indestructible". But Mora is also that good. One point is that the Hultafors models came pretty dull from the factory as with the Mora I could shave myself. Spending some time on the wetstones and they all are pretty shaving now.
I bought a Hultafors HD based on this review and I can honestly say I like this knife and I'll start taking it on camp outs to augment my silky and SAK, Good review.
An excellent comparative review, thanks for sharing. I continue to be impressed by my Hultafors GK. It easily handles the tasks I've needed it to. I've also filed the spine and can now get excellent ferro rod sparks. I have also modified the sheath as I don't find the belt clip very user friendly or robust. At the moment I don't see any need to replace this knife with a more expensive one. Both knives are excellent value and perfect for those learning bushcraft (as I am). Atb, Mark
Hedgerow Bushcraft Thank you. I also think this is all I need as far as wood working and bushcraft go. I modified the belt loop in one of my Hulks. This one I don't carry that often so I didn't have to do anything with it yet. Plus, I can always just swap the sheaths.
Amazing test! Seems like a draw. Both are excellent for the price. The only way to know which one is tougher/stronger would be to use a hammer and pound on the spines. GK's package says it's OK to strike it with the hammer but Morakniv doesn't say if it's acceptable or not to use hammer on the Robust. Since Hultafors approves this kind of use, I would trust Hultafors GK to survive being pounded on with a hammer but I'm not sure about Morakniv''s Robust.
Great field test! I found a Canadian dealer for Hultafors and decided to buy one after watching this video. This is mostly so I can compare it with my Mora Companion HD MG, which seems almost identical.
I ordered the GK and HVK combo. I wish my supplier had the GK and STK combo, however. In any case, I noticed you had a steel treatment using birch (?). I just spent a couple hours shooting a video on another treatment that's quite common but very effective. I blued a 735 abd a couple of Companion HD MGs, because I promised David at HighCarbonSteelLove that I'd do it. I should have the video up in a week or less.
Alberta Bushcrafter I know David's channel :) You mean treatment as in bluing? It's some nasty gun blue composed of at least two acids and called birch wood casey. Actually, I think it's the name of the company. Good luck. I'll watch your video when it's ready.
That's exactly it - Birchwood Casey. Just waiting for a Mora 535 (I think) and 2 Companion HD MGs to cure. Morning will tell how well it worked and I'll film that. I told David I'd do it over a month ago so I figured it was time. I got a really deep, dark result from this bluing and it's my favorite bluing product. I'll post the results.
***** Interesting. Thanks. I didn't know gun barrels used 1095 and was wondering what steel that might be. How do you know mora robust pro is a laminated blade? As far as I know, it's just UHB-20C which is considered an equivalent or replacement steel for 1095.
I disagree with most commenters. I have several Hultafors GK carbon. They all rusted and dulled quickly, even when coated in oil. Theyre very difficult to sharpen. Mora stainless comes much, much sharper out of the box and much easier to sharpen.
Good test. They both perform well, but IMHO... the Mora is more aesthetically pleasing. Now if one of them would make a ambidextrous sheath for lefties or righties.....
I just gave my Robust Pro to a friend. Good knife, but I don't care for the groove between the plastic/rubber on the handle. It's not as noticeable on the Basic versions, because they're all plastic. The other issue is the short handle of the Robust Pro. Not a big deal for 3 seasons, but not big enough for use with winter gloves. The GK handle is pretty much perfect in my opinion. The only handle design I prefer, in this price range, is the Mora 711/746 type. If they made that handle in polypro, those would be my grail knives.
redpanda1971 I actually like those too. Only it doesn't bother me that they're a bit softer. I haven't had to use the new more wearing thick gloves so can't say what it'd be like for me.
Thanks for test. Awesome! The only think is that they are not in the same price level. Mora is 2x more expensive I guess. But anyway great to know the behavior. You are so nice to do it! Subscribed... MS
Dla mnie, te noże są takie same! These knives are identical! Dałem łapkę w ciemno i nie żałuje. Super materiał, niezwykle profesjonalny. Jedyne do czego mógłbym się przyczepić to audio - przydałoby się jakieś odszumianie. Natomiast nutka na początku jest niezwykle przyjemna dla ucha. Dzięki Szymon!
Krul Mateusz Musiałbym nagrywać audio osobno. Robiłem tak parę razy ale złożenie tego do kupy zajmuje godziny. Obrabiam to w iMovie, które jest za darmo ale nie ma tam niestety zbyt dobrej opcji odszumiania. Strasznie kaleczy dźwięk. Jak będę trochę bardziej popularny, to obiecuję, że zainwestuję w lepszy sprzęt ;)
Możesz spróbować za pomocą audacity - jest to popularny, darmowy programik. (Działa też na MACach) Kiedyś Ci wysyłałem link do filmiku jak odszumić audio tym programem.
Krul Mateusz Widziałem ten filmik. Ale nie musiałbym wtedy mieć osobnej ścieżki? Mógłbym ją w zasadzie oddzielić w iMovie i potem połączyć. Popróbuję. Dogaduję się teraz z gościem od profesjonalnego filmowania. Zobaczymy co z tego wyjdzie ale obawiam się, że do poważnej poprawy będziecie musieli jeszcze trochę pocierpieć ;)
Kudos to what he said at 13:44. There are knives out there designed for heavy use bushcraft and they are good for the really tough tasks...but I don't understand why so many knife tests include batoning and tip testing. Even light duty knives made from thin stock seem to make it into videos where folks feel the need to whack them unmercifully through the butt end of a log.
Krul Mateusz Dzięki :) Dzisiaj widziałem już kilka złamanych na facebooku, to będzie kontrargument jak znalazł ;) Ale poważnie, to tamci używali innych modeli.
there is one reason to test the blade by hanging on it,if you go trough the ice you can use the knife to drag yourself up,its what neckknives was used for once upon a time you stab and pull.
I appreciate you showing what these knives can handle if it's the only tool you have you know what it's capable of. That's how I know what knives I'll pay big money for is people like you putting them through their paces. I've got a Fiskars x7 but I still wanna know if I pay $200 for a knife I can depend on it if it's the only tool I have in a SHTF situation. I just ordered my first mora Black, never would buy mora because I believe you get what you pay for, but it don't seem that way for mora knives or my hatchet, Fiskars x7 I paid $24 for it and it's better than $200 hatchets. I find the product I'm interested in and look for videos like yours too help me make my decisions easier.
I saw a similar test with the old robust VS the Hultafors GK and the plastic handle the tang was set in was stronger on the Mora than on the Hultafors.
Paloma Monteleone It's possible, although, all these test, mine included, take it to the extreme. I don't suppose I'll ever have to do what I did here. Thanks for watching.
The Hultafors has a much longer tang. Long enough that it would still be usable after a failure of the hilt, though that's unlikely, as your test shows.
I have the hultefors too ... you didn't mention the price difference... they are both great knives but at less than 10 quid and it's easy to sharpen to a razor edge the hultafors wins hands down
+Simon's Discoveries that's a shame. I'd love to see your impressions and usage of it. It's the best of the bunch in my opinion. Plus you're the best mora reviewer on the tube. The series isn't complete without the BB
+Simon's Discoveries sounds good. I'll keep an eye out. I'm confident you will enjoy it as much or more than the standard robust. (The only downside in comparison is that the robust is a tiny bit more comfortable in chest lever grip because there is no finger groove.) I like using my BB slightly more than my LT wright knives and definitely better than my schrade schf56L and BK16. I did however use a strop (medium and fine compound) to micro convex it which it seems you tend to do as well Best regards
+ Simon's Discoveries + Erick Ohmstede The Bushcraft Black High Carbon Edition is by far my favorite knive! I think it's just pure perfection and you can't get anything better for that money. When I started with Bushcraft I first bought expensive knives but for the last 4 years I havent used any of my other knives beside the Mora BB. If I could marry a knive it would be this one for sure! :-)
+Simon's Discoveries przekonał mnie Pan do hultaforca, jednak mam pytanię, nóż miał by służyć jak dopełnienie do srm710, chciał bym zabrać go na obóz, i tu pytanie, czy po dłuższym użytkowaniu nie jest mocno uciążliwa ta plastikowa rączka ?
rafai player To pewnie zależy od użytkownika i tego co masz na myśli mówiąc "uciążliwa". Ja używam tych noży od lat i rączka w ogóle mi nie przeszkadza. Bardzo ją lubię bo dobrze leży mi w dłoni.
+Christian Cork How the hell did I miss your comment? Or maybe I already replied privately..? Can't remember. Anyway, the hulk had a sabre grind - scandi with a nasty secondary bevel. The robust is fine after resharpening.
Simon - just subbed your channel. Good stuff here. I searched your videos to see if you have tested the Mora Bushcraft Black, and did not see one. Any plans to do one? 'm a fan of Dr. Mako (virtuovice) on YT. He did a great video on reprofiling the BB freehand with stones.
l8tbraker Hi and thanks. I like his videos too. I was surprised to see he'd come to the same conclusions regarding convexing moras. Maybe I shouldn't be because it's simply practical. I actually don't have a bushcraft black :) I've thought about buying one many times and always decided, based on what others have said, it was just a slightly bigger mora robust with a coating that I can apply myself (in fact I have in some cases) and sharp spine (can do, and have done myself as well). The only big difference, or differences, I see are a potentially more ergonomic handle - it just looks like it's got to be comfortable - and a semi-dangler sheath. These two factors may well make me buy and test one some day :) I suppose my biggest problem with that knife is its price. It cost as much as some collectable puukko knives. We'll see. Thanks for watching.
Simon's Discoveries Thanks, Simon, for the quick answer. I've been contemplating getting the BB, mainly to avoid the whole re-do of the spine of the other Moras (I don't have a workshop, tools or the skills). But apart from that, I wonder if the BB has a different edge geometry than the Robust and HD. And the Bushcraft handles: I have a Bushcraft Forest that I like a lot.
l8tbraker The handle definitely looks better on the BB but that's just my deduction from watching videos and pictures. I can't comment on the geometry but it's not unusual for Mora to put very different grinds on very similar knives. I guess if you don't want to go through the whole DIY process, then it may be worth to get something that's ready to go out of the box.
l8tbraker If you take a carbide sharpener like the Speedy Sharp, you can easily square up a spine enough for a ferro rod, or even fine shavings for fire starting. I know they can be found for
RaphaelAtherill Yes. They're not kitchen knives. That's for sure :) However, it's not often that I have to slice bread or tomatoes in the woods. I use my knives to work in wood or process meat much more often. But they can do it all. Slicing bread isn't gonna be very comfortable but it'll work.
I'm asking because this is one of the main reasons to bring knife for most of my trips. Processing wood can be important, but usually you need something to prepare a nice dinner in your camp. I've struggled to do it with my old Gerlach scout puukko and it was a real pain in the ass. Even my Bushman is better for that kind of job.
RaphaelAtherill In that case you need something thinner and flat ground. Maybe a Condor Kephart or a mora flex knife? Or carry a spare folder for kitchen stuff. Ontario RAT 1 is perfect for such tasks. But bushman is actually not a bad choice. It can practically be a chef's knife when you nee it. Perfect for chopping and slicing bread and not too shabby when it comes to carving or batoning.
@@SimonsDiscoveries Sharp edge is preferred if not going on destruction tests. I like the edge sharp, not like that of a chisel. Though I do convex it also with sandpaper and leather strops. The GK is a but too obtuse for my taste. Goes for the edge and fat tip.
nice! I love both brands and have many knives of both. For my outdoor activities (batoning especially) I prefer the GK since it has a longer blade and a bulkier handle, and as you shoved, it has a better cutting angle when considering wear of the blade. Otherwise both models are quite similar
I bought 2 Moras and after 1 single cut the edge rolled.That factory edge it s so fragile. I was disappointed, but after a serious sharpening, little convex, the edge holds very good. After that i was very glad about my choice.
Hult GK =10 euro here, and Pro Robust =12,75 euro. Mora Heavy Duty = 18 euro. Mora all the way for me. I like the sharp tip and edge better, the handle ergo's also. YMMV ofcourse. To each their own preference.
LOL .....I agree were talking like 2$ or so, we are seriously cheap. I realized halfway through that all the competitive anticipation had left me. Not because your reviews arnt cool Simon, but do to the fact that we can just buy both knives for under 30$ and call it good;)
+Simon's Discoveries sprawdzałem na typowym Rockwellu.Bardzo mnie to zniesmaczyło do słynnej mory.Możliwe ,że mam jakąś lipną bo od zakupu już mi się bardzo szybko tępiła i robiły się "doliny" na KT.Jutro jeszcze raz wykonam kilka pomiarów i napisze.
czarnebobo Czyli pilnikami czy jakimś stacjonarnym twardościomierzem Rockwella? Możliwe, że ci się trafiła źle zahartowana. Chociaż przy tym kącie szlifu, to i dobrze zahartowany nóż się pognie na twardym drewnie. Ja swoją musiałem przeszlifować na lekki convex. Ale wszystkie mory tak mają. Ten oryginalny kąt jest za ostry do pracy w drewnie.
+czarnebobo Wykonałem około dziesięciu pomiarów.Wynik w przedziale od 53 do 57 Hrc .Wydaje mi się ,że im bliżej szlifu tym wyższa wartość ,więc dobrze.Fachowcy z działu hartowania mówili ,że do wyniku mogę dodać niby ze 2 .,więc takie wymuszone 58 może i ta morka ma przy krawędzi.
I o co chodzi z tym batonowaniem?! Na większości filmików "survivalovcy" batonują patyki, które wcześniej zostały równiutko przycięte piłą! Co to daje!? Kto tak robi? Ktoś kto ma piłę! W terenie takie "batonowanie" wymaga jakiejś twardej podkładki albo przynajmniej pniaka. Ja nigdy nie batonuję tylko strugam patyki do rozpałki. Piłą tylko przycinam grubsze gałęzie do ogniska. Bez piły jak tu batonować. I nie mówcie, że można przycinać waląc innym patykiem w klingę. p.s. Przez 25 tak uprawiania turystyki kwalifikowanej (dziś zwanej survivalem) niegdy niczego nie batonowałem!
+Erich Holtz Turystyka, to jednak nie survival :) Nie widzę sprzeczności między batonowanie i używaniem piły. Nie widzę też problemu w noszeniu składanej piłki w plecaku. Sam często tak robię. Mam też całkiem sprawną piłę w scyzoryku Vicrorinox'a. Można się bez nie obejść batonując drewno w poprzek, tnąc je w ten sposób na mniejsze kawałki ale tu nie widziałem potrzeby utrudniania sobie życia bo nie jest to filmik o batonowaniu w trudnych warunkach. Strugać można patyki jeśli tak naprawdę nie jest zbyt mokro. W warunkach naprawdę wysokiej wilgotności (ulewa, czy wielodniowy deszcz) patyk, który jest sens strugać będzie zbyć cienki, żeby tam było jeszcze cokolwiek suchego na rozpałkę. W takiej sytuacji, klocek musi mieć minimum 10 cm średnicy, żeby drewno w środku było suche. Struganie czegoś takiego potrwało by pewnie do przybycia ekipy ratunkowej ;)
Może ja w tym surwiwalu czegoś nie rozumiem. To jakaś nowomoda, czy rodzaj zabawy? Dla mnie albo idzie się w teren wyposażony w nóż, siekierę i piłę i podpałkę albo wcale. Wtedy nóż nie musi być kosmicznie mocny. Albo jest się po jakiejś katastrofie np. morskiej czy lotniczej ale wtedy nie ma co liczyć nawet na victorinoxa. Zabawa finką i krzesiwkiem jest dla mnie nie zrozumiała bo warunkach ekstremalnych i tak tego nie będę mieć a w warunkach normalnych jest bezsensowne dla mnie takie narażanie się. Być może w tym wszystkim wiele złego narobił ten oszołom Grylls, wprowadzając modę na takie głupoty. Choć nie, przed był jeszcze John Rambo. We wszystkich testach które widziałem nożami się batonuje, struga patyki krzesze iskry z krzesiwka. ew. wiesza na nich. Wszystko to odbywa się optymalnych warunkach, często w ogródku za domem. Jeszcze nie widziałem filmu, w którym to wszystko działa ale np. podczas śnieżycy, dużego mrozu, czy ulewy. No chyba , że takie są a ja na nie trafiłem. To tyle, być może nie w temacie ale mam dziś wolne od pracy, więc co nieco skrobnąłem. A autor strony da się zauważyć, że jest cierpliwy.
+Erich Holtz W trudnych warunkach dość trudno się filmuje. Zwłaszcza samemu. A jeśli ktoś jest w naprawdę survivalowej sytuacji, to jego ostatnim zmartwieniem będzie zadowalanie wymagań RUclipsrów. Ale zdarzało mi się rozpalać ogień krzesiwem w śniegu i na mrozie. I to krzesiwem kowalskim, używając do tego wyłącznie naturalnej i nietkniętej hubki. I tak, robiłem to wtedy bardziej dla zabawy. W ten sposób najlepiej się czegoś nauczyć.ruclips.net/video/s_RgXmg8LVw/видео.htmlm40s Narzekanie, że większość treningów/demonstracji odbywa się w scenerii treningowej, to trochę jak zarzucanie żołnierzom, że trenują na poligonie a nie na prawdziwej wojnie, a do tego na pokazach nie strzelają do siebie ostra amunicją jak prawdziwi twardziele. Testy są po to, żeby sprawdzić na co sobie można z danym nożem pozwolić, żeby być go pewnym kiedy zajdzie taka potrzeba.
+Simon's Discoveries Z drugiej strony to mówi się: "że najlepszym treningiem dla kolarza jest wyścig" albo co to za sztuka walki z której nie urządza się sparingów/zawodów" (podobno w aikido tak jest). Choć faktycznie w warunkach dużej wilgotności tak jak na tym filmiku trudno byłoby rozpalić nawet normalnym krzesiwkiem. Mnie zastanawia tylko sama idea zabawy w survival - chodzi np. o zabawę krzesiwkiem. Po co to komu jeśli istnieją o wiele bardziej skuteczne metody. Przyznaję, ja sam też często się tak bawię ale nigdy nie wybrałbym się w teren bez porządnego źródła ognia. Bywa, że szybkie rozpalenie ognia to sprawa zdrowia/życia. Przemoczone/przepocone ubranie, zgrabiałe/odmrożone dłonie. Wtedy zabawa w rozpalanie ognia może okazać się niewystarczająca. Zastanawiam się czy to odpowiednie miejsce na tego typu dyskusje.
Erich Holtz Krzesiwo współczesne powstało dlatego, że jest najbardziej niezawodnym źródłem ognia. Jego używanie wymaga trochę wprawy ale kiedy się to już opanuje, to takie coś jest w zasadzie niezniszczalne. Ok, koroduje stosunkowo szybko w wodzie ale i tak jest praktycznie wodoodporne. Nie ma tam części ruchomych, więc nic się nie złamie, nie wypadnie ani nie rozszczelni. Działa w największym mrozie, na wietrze i przy największej wilgotności. Starcza na dłużej niż kilka zapalniczek czy paczek zapałek. Oczywiście jeśli wiemy jak z niego korzystać i nie jest jakieś miniaturowe. Do tego, krzesiwa można również użyć do sygnalizowania w nocy. Zapalniczka się bardzo przydaje ale z doświadczenia wiem, że nie można im zbytnio ufać.
+Simon's Discoveries Zdecydowanie krzesiwo jest trwałe. Ja jednak nie jestem do końca przekonany do jego skuteczności. Pomimo wielokrotnego używania. Chodzi o jego dość skomplikowany proces użycia. Zapalniczka czy zapałki sztormowe (przez niektórych zwane szturmowymi) do tego np. rozpałka do grilla,w moim przypadku zawsze stawały się niezawodne. Podam przykład: kiedyś zapomniałem wsadzić buty do śpiwora a było ok - 30*C gdyby nie szybkie rozpalenie ognia mogło się to dla mnie skończyć odmrożeniami. To moje zdanie. Oczywiście człowiek uczy się całe życie. To tyle. Nie chcę dalej zapełniać forum o nożach.
+Mike J I highly doubt that, since Hultafors and Mora are two separate companies. They're just based in the same country but even the steel types they use are different and sourced from different countries..
***** Where did you find that information? I've never heard of that. Yes they do have a similar hatchet model but they're sold with different logos, at different prices and at different head weights. They may be commissioning some of their work but that's different. Plus I don't even know if that's true.
***** BTW, Someone from Sweden once told me Hultafors was cheaper than Mora because their knives were made in Taiwan. Whereas Mora knives were still made in Sweden.
It's cheaper because, unlike Mora which is made in Sweden, Hultafors knives are made in Taiwan or something like that and use a potentially cheaper Japanese steel sk-5 rather than Scandinavian UHB-20C. Is it better? It's up to you :)
Well, Hultafors is taken from the Swedish village where the Company started, But yes, They manufacture tools in Sweden, Britain, Romania and China, So, They could come from any of four Countries, But they are not made in Taiwan, I know the Stainless Steel is AUS8A, They only claim the High carbon steel is a high quality Japanese hardened to 58 -60 HRC, The handle is certainly better than the Mora in terms of finger guard and if you are wearing gloves, And it`s usually cheaper, As with Taiwan, Some excellent knives do come out of there, It`s probably the case that the parts and machines are shipped in, And they are put together their only to save on labour costs alone, It`s not the case anymore of the old joke " Made in Taiwan " = Crap
Mora robust 20 degree convex grind on a work sharp and it’s a knife… I hate scandi knives, they are always dull after the same use a convex secondary would be sharp as a razor…
It is ridiculous to test two blades, one with the factory sharpening and the other with a convex modification. This video is completely bias towards the Hultafors knife.
The only thing an abuse test like this proves is that you're willing to abuse knives. Knives are for cutting with. They are not for beating with a club. Be a real woodsman and use a hatchet, or a well-designed tomahawk, and a saw for processing wood. For bigger jobs, use an axe or a bucksaw. Or one of the new Silky Katanas. But there is never, ever an excuse to beat your best friend with a club. All it proves is that you watch all the wrong RUclips channels, and don't read history at all.
i like to use knife for batoning and making camping fire with only one knife :) I like this review. And I LIKE to see how much that knives are strong! :)
You watch too much RUclips. Nothing is more disturbing than watching someone mistreat a good knife by beating on it with a club. There is never, ever a reason to do this. Only amateurs, which means people who learn everything they know from RUclips, beat their knives with a club. Get away from RUclips incest, read some actual books, learn what two thousand years of knife history has taught us, and then go out and buy a blasted hatchet, or a tomahawk with a hammer poll, and a saw. If you want to baton, do it right, and use a hatchet or a tomahawk.
+James Ritchie There is plenty of reasons to baton a knife. Even my grandmother did it. She died long before RUclips was even an idea. In fact, I made a video on that ruclips.net/video/qBcsSnHNDdQ/видео.html Good knife should take batoning without complaining. If it doesn't, it's not a good knife for me. Unless it's a specialised knife that I know not to baton like my Mora classic. It can take light batoning but it needs to be done gently with precision. Thanks for watching.
As a carpenter I use a hultafors gk daily and I can tell you it has went through some unbelievable abuse from cutting lead to being hit hard on the spine with a 24oz estwing hammer, used as a chisel, sharpened with sanders, oil stones, diamond stones, glass, and ceramic rods its has rusted and been cleaned up with sandpaper. It looks like it has been through several wars and it still preforms. the handle (very comfortable) has never cracked or the blade has never moved. It is easy to get razor sharp, and I mean razor. I have moras including the bushcraft black which I love. But as for value, at least in the uk nothing beats the hultafors gk...
MrBigstef That's true. I mention that in one of my previous videos. It is probably the best and most under-appreciated, inexpesive knife I've seen.
Same in Germany.
Mora Pro Robust 15,95€ incl. taxes (local retailer)
Hultafors Heavy Duty (Grobmesser GK) 7,84€ incl. taxes (local retailer)
The Hultafors is just incredibly priced.
Bought a Hultafors, haven´t really used it yet, but I´m sure it will hold up.
My old Mora Clipper sure did fine even with heavy batoning where a much more expensive full tang knife ... Nieto I think ... failed (too deep hollow grind).
Do you have any experience with the OK4? It looks like a souped up version of the GK.
Reminds me of a carpenter I know who used his Hulta to declogg a sewer and later during lunch break used the same knife to cut his sousage. He just wiped the knife on his pants to get it "clean". He was always dirty but never sick!
@@Plastpackad gross lol
When starting the first Bushcraft Association back in 2011 Hultafors gave me a GK for testing. After the initial tests it became the instructors knife. All instructors used it hard and it never failed. I still have my very first still in use.
I have nothing bad to say about Mora, but for my hands I prefer the Hultafors GK. I love the big handle that's easy to clean.
Stop constantly changing your name on youtube and commenting on every video. People are not watching your channel anyways because you are a rude annoying person.
Great review, I also own and use both and have found same as you . I do like the Mora better due to better carving , handle ergonomics and lower price in my area. I don't baton very much due to abundance of materials were I go, and even if I do it's just small stuff to get to dry kindling. Less than a minute of stropping is enough to get it razor sharp again. Again both great knives for price.
Excellent Video! I've owned a Hultafors Knife for about 5-6 years and it is still in great shape and very sharp. The handle fits me just right. The blade might be the easiest to sharpen of all my knives. I might perform a mod on the sheath. Perhaps the company will focus a little more attention on the sheath's belt loop. Great extra knife for outdoors or a bugout bag. The knife is a bonus for a tool box.
Just found your channel. Great video! Concise, to the point, and not weighted down with flowery talk and personal opinions like some guys' videos. I appreciate that straightforward style. I subscribed. Keep up the good work!!
Have a wonderful New Year.
As I mentioned two years ago I prefer the Hultafors. That handle is great for my hand. I did decide after watching this video again to also get me a Mora Robust and the main reason is the way better belt clip on the sheath.
Yes, the mora sheath clip is way better and easier to use.
@@SimonsDiscoveries I know. I've told the distributor many times Hultafors really need to upgrade their sheaths. They have decent retention but for the rest they suck.
I don't know when they did it but I got a Hultafors recently and it still has the belt clip that most people seem not to like but it also has a belt loop so you can just slide it on a belt. The belt loop works well so that difference I think no longer applies.
@@darkcircle899 That change came when they introduced the Hulatfors OK1 and OK 4. They come with this belt loop but they don't sell the belt loops seperately. Of course you can make a belt loop with a button.
I have the Hultafors OK1 and OK4 and also the Mora Robust. I prefer the Hultafors knives. It seems to be they are more "indestructible". But Mora is also that good. One point is that the Hultafors models came pretty dull from the factory as with the Mora I could shave myself. Spending some time on the wetstones and they all are pretty shaving now.
Nice demo, both are pretty good, well worth more than their low price, as they are so cheap just get a few of each, I just ordered 6.
Love your videos. Right to the point, unbiased and thorough.
I bought a Hultafors HD based on this review and I can honestly say I like this knife and I'll start taking it on camp outs to augment my silky and SAK, Good review.
+Chip Sanford Thanks. I'm glad it helped and the knife wasn't a disappointment :)
An excellent comparative review, thanks for sharing. I continue to be impressed by my Hultafors GK. It easily handles the tasks I've needed it to. I've also filed the spine and can now get excellent ferro rod sparks. I have also modified the sheath as I don't find the belt clip very user friendly or robust. At the moment I don't see any need to replace this knife with a more expensive one. Both knives are excellent value and perfect for those learning bushcraft (as I am). Atb, Mark
Hedgerow Bushcraft Thank you. I also think this is all I need as far as wood working and bushcraft go. I modified the belt loop in one of my Hulks. This one I don't carry that often so I didn't have to do anything with it yet. Plus, I can always just swap the sheaths.
Amazing test! Seems like a draw. Both are excellent for the price. The only way to know which one is tougher/stronger would be to use a hammer and pound on the spines. GK's package says it's OK to strike it with the hammer but Morakniv doesn't say if it's acceptable or not to use hammer on the Robust. Since Hultafors approves this kind of use, I would trust Hultafors GK to survive being pounded on with a hammer but I'm not sure about Morakniv''s Robust.
The GK is much stronger.
Great field test! I found a Canadian dealer for Hultafors and decided to buy one after watching this video. This is mostly so I can compare it with my Mora Companion HD MG, which seems almost identical.
Alberta Bushcrafter They are pretty similar. I think you won't be disappointed :)
I ordered the GK and HVK combo. I wish my supplier had the GK and STK combo, however. In any case, I noticed you had a steel treatment using birch (?). I just spent a couple hours shooting a video on another treatment that's quite common but very effective. I blued a 735 abd a couple of Companion HD MGs, because I promised David at HighCarbonSteelLove that I'd do it. I should have the video up in a week or less.
Alberta Bushcrafter I know David's channel :) You mean treatment as in bluing? It's some nasty gun blue composed of at least two acids and called birch wood casey. Actually, I think it's the name of the company. Good luck. I'll watch your video when it's ready.
That's exactly it - Birchwood Casey. Just waiting for a Mora 535 (I think) and 2 Companion HD MGs to cure. Morning will tell how well it worked and I'll film that. I told David I'd do it over a month ago so I figured it was time.
I got a really deep, dark result from this bluing and it's my favorite bluing product. I'll post the results.
***** Interesting. Thanks. I didn't know gun barrels used 1095 and was wondering what steel that might be. How do you know mora robust pro is a laminated blade? As far as I know, it's just UHB-20C which is considered an equivalent or replacement steel for 1095.
Looks like you cant go wrong with either for $15. Good test.
+Outdoor Archives True. Thanks.
Your findings almost exactly mirrored mine.
I think it's worth noting that those with big hands may be happier with the Hultafors.
Blue Mountain Bushcraft and Outdoors True. The handle is much thicker. And longer.
Additionally the handle is easier on the hands of us with arthritis.
It’s also comfortable to hold at different angles, and has a nice big thick guard to keep the fingers safe.
I disagree with most commenters. I have several Hultafors GK carbon. They all rusted and dulled quickly, even when coated in oil. Theyre very difficult to sharpen. Mora stainless comes much, much sharper out of the box and much easier to sharpen.
Good test. They both perform well, but IMHO... the Mora is more aesthetically pleasing. Now if one of them would make a ambidextrous sheath for lefties or righties.....
Good. I use new type Mora Robust
It's excellent.
Great vids mate, keep them coming. Keep doing what you are doing.
Thank you. Will try :)
I just gave my Robust Pro to a friend. Good knife, but I don't care for the groove between the plastic/rubber on the handle. It's not as noticeable on the Basic versions, because they're all plastic. The other issue is the short handle of the Robust Pro. Not a big deal for 3 seasons, but not big enough for use with winter gloves. The GK handle is pretty much perfect in my opinion. The only handle design I prefer, in this price range, is the Mora 711/746 type. If they made that handle in polypro, those would be my grail knives.
redpanda1971 I actually like those too. Only it doesn't bother me that they're a bit softer. I haven't had to use the new more wearing thick gloves so can't say what it'd be like for me.
Simon's Discoveries I wish the Hulti craftsman came with the GK handle. It would probably look weird, but I need some room for my paws.
redpanda1971 lol
I have the robust, and it's pretty stellar
Yup, I like these blades too.
I abuse the crap out of my mora and sharpen it on a rock.
@@TheCooperman666 i sharpen my rock on a mora
Thanks for test. Awesome! The only think is that they are not in the same price level. Mora is 2x more expensive I guess. But anyway great to know the behavior. You are so nice to do it! Subscribed... MS
Thanks. By 'the same price range' I don't mean 'actually the same price'. I just mean they're both very cheap.
Understand. No problem. Many thanks for reply. MS
Thank you for doing this comparison. I have been very curious which brand is superior.
great vid ,thanks Simon
+Andrew Downing Thank you
Dla mnie, te noże są takie same!
These knives are identical!
Dałem łapkę w ciemno i nie żałuje. Super materiał, niezwykle profesjonalny. Jedyne do czego mógłbym się przyczepić to audio - przydałoby się jakieś odszumianie. Natomiast nutka na początku jest niezwykle przyjemna dla ucha. Dzięki Szymon!
Krul Mateusz Musiałbym nagrywać audio osobno. Robiłem tak parę razy ale złożenie tego do kupy zajmuje godziny. Obrabiam to w iMovie, które jest za darmo ale nie ma tam niestety zbyt dobrej opcji odszumiania. Strasznie kaleczy dźwięk. Jak będę trochę bardziej popularny, to obiecuję, że zainwestuję w lepszy sprzęt ;)
Możesz spróbować za pomocą audacity - jest to popularny, darmowy programik. (Działa też na MACach)
Kiedyś Ci wysyłałem link do filmiku jak odszumić audio tym programem.
Krul Mateusz Widziałem ten filmik. Ale nie musiałbym wtedy mieć osobnej ścieżki? Mógłbym ją w zasadzie oddzielić w iMovie i potem połączyć. Popróbuję. Dogaduję się teraz z gościem od profesjonalnego filmowania. Zobaczymy co z tego wyjdzie ale obawiam się, że do poważnej poprawy będziecie musieli jeszcze trochę pocierpieć ;)
czekam na efekty.
No they are not, I have them both.
Prefer the rubber inlay of the mora robust, but both seem like good knives
Хорошее видео.
Спасибо!
Успехов в дальнейших проектах.
Михаил Желавский Спасибо много :)
Swedish steel in the Mora. But the other is not so bad when need to cut through aluminium frames and stuff.
Hultafors GK & OK4 are awesome knives 👍
Thanx for the video my Bladed Brother 👍 ⚔️ ✝️ 🇺🇲
Kudos to what he said at 13:44. There are knives out there designed for heavy use bushcraft and they are good for the really tough tasks...but I don't understand why so many knife tests include batoning and tip testing. Even light duty knives made from thin stock seem to make it into videos where folks feel the need to whack them unmercifully through the butt end of a log.
I dont think knives should be used for this. Just bring a small axe for that job.
Excellent test!
+Mika Hakinen Thank you.
Szymon - poszła łapka w ciemno.
Krul Mateusz Dzięki :) Dzisiaj widziałem już kilka złamanych na facebooku, to będzie kontrargument jak znalazł ;) Ale poważnie, to tamci używali innych modeli.
Simon's Discoveries Czemu nie mówisz po polsku?
Też widziałem :) Jak byś wchodził na FB to pewnie zauważysz, że podlinkowałem ten film - w 5 grupach :P
filon1995 Filmiki kręcę w Anglii z ludźmi różnych narodowości dla ludzi różnych narodowości. Po polsku ciężko byłoby nam się dogadać ;)
Simon's Discoveries Niech się uczą! W internetach są:)!
there is one reason to test the blade by hanging on it,if you go trough the ice you can use the knife to drag yourself up,its what neckknives was used for once upon a time you stab and pull.
iscariot project Good point. This should make my tests look a bit less silly ;) Thanks.
They look very similar. Same production line? Thanks for sharing Simon
Same country of origin, as in both companies are from Sweden but their actually made on different continents.
I appreciate you showing what these knives can handle if it's the only tool you have you know what it's capable of. That's how I know what knives I'll pay big money for is people like you putting them through their paces. I've got a Fiskars x7 but I still wanna know if I pay $200 for a knife I can depend on it if it's the only tool I have in a SHTF situation. I just ordered my first mora Black, never would buy mora because I believe you get what you pay for, but it don't seem that way for mora knives or my hatchet, Fiskars x7 I paid $24 for it and it's better than $200 hatchets. I find the product I'm interested in and look for videos like yours too help me make my decisions easier.
I saw a similar test with the old robust VS the Hultafors GK and the plastic handle the tang was set in was stronger on the Mora than on the Hultafors.
Paloma Monteleone It's possible, although, all these test, mine included, take it to the extreme. I don't suppose I'll ever have to do what I did here.
Thanks for watching.
i thought that knives under body weight will broke... but surprisingly not... thanks for not to be afraid what will happen
It's good to know what to expect from your knife.
Great job on the video
great,thorough review.
Thank you
The Hultafors has a much longer tang. Long enough that it would still be usable after a failure of the hilt, though that's unlikely, as your test shows.
+John Jones True. Thanks for watching.
I have the hultefors too ... you didn't mention the price difference... they are both great knives but at less than 10 quid and it's easy to sharpen to a razor edge the hultafors wins hands down
True. Hultafors knives are usually cheaper than Mora knives.
Simon,
Have you tried the bushcraft black?
I still haven't for some reason.
+Simon's Discoveries that's a shame. I'd love to see your impressions and usage of it. It's the best of the bunch in my opinion. Plus you're the best mora reviewer on the tube. The series isn't complete without the BB
Erick Ohmstede I'll see what I can do :) Thanks.
+Simon's Discoveries sounds good. I'll keep an eye out. I'm confident you will enjoy it as much or more than the standard robust. (The only downside in comparison is that the robust is a tiny bit more comfortable in chest lever grip because there is no finger groove.) I like using my BB slightly more than my LT wright knives and definitely better than my schrade schf56L and BK16. I did however use a strop (medium and fine compound) to micro convex it which it seems you tend to do as well
Best regards
+ Simon's Discoveries
+ Erick Ohmstede
The Bushcraft Black High Carbon Edition is by far my favorite knive! I think it's just pure perfection and you can't get anything better for that money. When I started with Bushcraft I first bought expensive knives but for the last 4 years I havent used any of my other knives beside the Mora BB. If I could marry a knive it would be this one for sure! :-)
nice comparison!
+Michigan edge Thank you.
Very nice video and really likeable guy. Thanks buddy👍
Thank you :)
Dzięki kolego. Różnica profilu i kąta ostrza jest rzadko albo wcale ukazana, a na YT "porównań" tych noży są setki.
cool vid mate
+Brad Daniels thank you.
bardzo fajny test
+rafai player Dzięki :)
+Simon's Discoveries przekonał mnie Pan do hultaforca, jednak mam pytanię, nóż miał by służyć jak dopełnienie do srm710, chciał bym zabrać go na obóz, i tu pytanie, czy po dłuższym użytkowaniu nie jest mocno uciążliwa ta plastikowa rączka ?
rafai player To pewnie zależy od użytkownika i tego co masz na myśli mówiąc "uciążliwa". Ja używam tych noży od lat i rączka w ogóle mi nie przeszkadza. Bardzo ją lubię bo dobrze leży mi w dłoni.
+Simon's Discoveries no to pozostaje zebrać te 30 coś zł, i zamówić go
Did the Hulk come from the factory with a scandi convexed edge? Did the Robust Pro hold its edge after convexing or did it roll again?
+Christian Cork How the hell did I miss your comment? Or maybe I already replied privately..? Can't remember. Anyway, the hulk had a sabre grind - scandi with a nasty secondary bevel. The robust is fine after resharpening.
Simon - just subbed your channel. Good stuff here.
I searched your videos to see if you have tested the Mora Bushcraft Black, and did not see one. Any plans to do one? 'm a fan of Dr. Mako (virtuovice) on YT. He did a great video on reprofiling the BB freehand with stones.
l8tbraker Hi and thanks. I like his videos too. I was surprised to see he'd come to the same conclusions regarding convexing moras. Maybe I shouldn't be because it's simply practical.
I actually don't have a bushcraft black :) I've thought about buying one many times and always decided, based on what others have said, it was just a slightly bigger mora robust with a coating that I can apply myself (in fact I have in some cases) and sharp spine (can do, and have done myself as well). The only big difference, or differences, I see are a potentially more ergonomic handle - it just looks like it's got to be comfortable - and a semi-dangler sheath. These two factors may well make me buy and test one some day :) I suppose my biggest problem with that knife is its price. It cost as much as some collectable puukko knives. We'll see.
Thanks for watching.
Simon's Discoveries Thanks, Simon, for the quick answer. I've been contemplating getting the BB, mainly to avoid the whole re-do of the spine of the other Moras (I don't have a workshop, tools or the skills). But apart from that, I wonder if the BB has a different edge geometry than the Robust and HD. And the Bushcraft handles: I have a Bushcraft Forest that I like a lot.
l8tbraker The handle definitely looks better on the BB but that's just my deduction from watching videos and pictures. I can't comment on the geometry but it's not unusual for Mora to put very different grinds on very similar knives.
I guess if you don't want to go through the whole DIY process, then it may be worth to get something that's ready to go out of the box.
l8tbraker If you take a carbide sharpener like the Speedy Sharp, you can easily square up a spine enough for a ferro rod, or even fine shavings for fire starting. I know they can be found for
Hultafors certainly has the more ergonomic handle.
do I need 3.2mm in such a small knife? my 7in bushman is 2.5 and works jest fine.
+RaphaelAtherill Depends. You probably don't but it won't hurt either.
well have you tried slicing tomatoes, sausage and bread with those? ;>
RaphaelAtherill Yes. They're not kitchen knives. That's for sure :) However, it's not often that I have to slice bread or tomatoes in the woods. I use my knives to work in wood or process meat much more often. But they can do it all. Slicing bread isn't gonna be very comfortable but it'll work.
I'm asking because this is one of the main reasons to bring knife for most of my trips. Processing wood can be important, but usually you need something to prepare a nice dinner in your camp. I've struggled to do it with my old Gerlach scout puukko and it was a real pain in the ass. Even my Bushman is better for that kind of job.
RaphaelAtherill In that case you need something thinner and flat ground. Maybe a Condor Kephart or a mora flex knife? Or carry a spare folder for kitchen stuff. Ontario RAT 1 is perfect for such tasks. But bushman is actually not a bad choice. It can practically be a chef's knife when you nee it. Perfect for chopping and slicing bread and not too shabby when it comes to carving or batoning.
2 awesome knifes mora is just littlebit more sharp
Yup. And pays the price being also more fragile at first.
@@SimonsDiscoveries
Sharp edge is preferred if not going on destruction tests.
I like the edge sharp, not like that of a chisel.
Though I do convex it also with sandpaper and leather strops.
The GK is a but too obtuse for my taste. Goes for the edge and fat tip.
Does the mora pro Robust come with a second micro bevel in the grind?
Mine did not and that's why I had to convex it slightly.
Simon's Discoveries OK, thanks :)
I had bad experience with "scandi grind" which then came with a second bevel.
nice! I love both brands and have many knives of both. For my outdoor activities (batoning especially) I prefer the GK since it has a longer blade and a bulkier handle, and as you shoved, it has a better cutting angle when considering wear of the blade. Otherwise both models are quite similar
Hi I think that can be great if you will a Try Stick video with the hultafors knife, the green one
I bought 2 Moras and after 1 single cut the edge rolled.That factory edge it s so fragile. I was disappointed, but after a serious sharpening, little convex, the edge holds very good. After that i was very glad about my choice.
Yup, they definitely need that little touch-up.
my opinion i would pick the heavy duty all day long its cheaper than the mora and you can pick 2 heavy duty knives for the price of a mora
+Ted Mears (bear bushcraft) Is the new Robust that expensive? I didn't realize. Can't remember how much I payed for it.
Hult GK =10 euro here, and Pro Robust =12,75 euro.
Mora Heavy Duty = 18 euro.
Mora all the way for me.
I like the sharp tip and edge better, the handle ergo's also.
YMMV ofcourse.
To each their own preference.
Mora sems to bend but not at the same place : at the limit of handle no ?
😎👍Cool das Messer
good review not good camera man.
Thanks. It was his first time :)
Imho Hultafors looks better 🤔
Come to think of it Mora cove half as much as haltafore does
Hultafors cost less it the best for the money!!!! Mora is a vary good knife
+Mike Townsend True, true... Thanks for watching :)
LOL .....I agree were talking like 2$ or so, we are seriously cheap.
I realized halfway through that all the competitive anticipation had left me. Not because your reviews arnt cool Simon, but do to the fact that we can just buy both knives for under 30$ and call it good;)
Airik1111 Yup, they are the perfect work horses. You don't have to worry about damaging them or getting them dirty.
The bottom guard on both knives Suck. Nice video however and thanks.
Ironic the Robust isn't at robust as the GK because it's TOO scandi.
Cletus Kasady well as a swede I understand what Grov in Grovkniv means...Or GK if you want. It is the opposite to fine.
Hultafors GK is the last knife you will ever need....
Dude hating on mora. Clearly it's bias. He stabbed the mora harder each time as well. The mora had zero bend.
Hi there; a new subber here. Check out the BAHCO 2449; it's a bit of a monster. Thanks for making good vids!
Tomas Sandberg Thanks. I remember someone else recommend it to me too. I guess I have no choice but to go for it :)
Tu macie ostry test Mory vs Hultaja: ruclips.net/video/szZ-Ri5BAZA/видео.html
Oczywiście z humorem!
Erich Holtz "Wideo jest prywatne" Nie chce się otworzyć.
Erich Holtz Jeśli to twój film, to zmień ustawienia prywatmości. Jeśli nie, to nie wiele można zrobić.
That was a little crazy
+Pedro Bonifacios Palacios What can I say..? That's the way I do things sometimes :) Thanks for watching.
Bonjour so wwhich one is the best ?
Hi. They're both good. It'll depend on personal preferences.
По Русски разговариваешь ?
Nope. I speak Polish and English.
Both are Swedish :)
Hultafors is made in UK of Japanese sk5 steel
Bending better than breaking.
ja oglądam bez napisów
Jak by kogoś interesowała twardość to ten robust z węglówki ma tylko 55 HRC.
+czarnebobo Sprawdzałeś na jakiejś dokładnej maszynie? Fabryka podaje 58-60. www.moraofsweden.se/steel-quality
+Simon's Discoveries sprawdzałem na typowym Rockwellu.Bardzo mnie to zniesmaczyło do słynnej mory.Możliwe ,że mam jakąś lipną bo od zakupu już mi się bardzo szybko tępiła i robiły się "doliny" na KT.Jutro jeszcze raz wykonam kilka pomiarów i napisze.
czarnebobo Czyli pilnikami czy jakimś stacjonarnym twardościomierzem Rockwella? Możliwe, że ci się trafiła źle zahartowana. Chociaż przy tym kącie szlifu, to i dobrze zahartowany nóż się pognie na twardym drewnie. Ja swoją musiałem przeszlifować na lekki convex. Ale wszystkie mory tak mają. Ten oryginalny kąt jest za ostry do pracy w drewnie.
+Simon's Discoveries Masz słuszność ,że to wina tego szlifu.Sprawdzam na fachowym stacjonarnym przyrządzie Rockwella(w pracy mam dostęp :) )
+czarnebobo Wykonałem około dziesięciu pomiarów.Wynik w przedziale od 53 do 57 Hrc .Wydaje mi się ,że im bliżej szlifu tym wyższa wartość ,więc dobrze.Fachowcy z działu hartowania mówili ,że do wyniku mogę dodać niby ze 2 .,więc takie wymuszone 58 może i ta morka ma przy krawędzi.
I o co chodzi z tym batonowaniem?! Na większości filmików "survivalovcy" batonują patyki, które wcześniej zostały równiutko przycięte piłą! Co to daje!? Kto tak robi? Ktoś kto ma piłę! W terenie takie "batonowanie" wymaga jakiejś twardej podkładki albo przynajmniej pniaka. Ja nigdy nie batonuję tylko strugam patyki do rozpałki. Piłą tylko przycinam grubsze gałęzie do ogniska. Bez piły jak tu batonować. I nie mówcie, że można przycinać waląc innym patykiem w klingę.
p.s.
Przez 25 tak uprawiania turystyki kwalifikowanej (dziś zwanej survivalem) niegdy niczego nie batonowałem!
+Erich Holtz Turystyka, to jednak nie survival :) Nie widzę sprzeczności między batonowanie i używaniem piły. Nie widzę też problemu w noszeniu składanej piłki w plecaku. Sam często tak robię. Mam też całkiem sprawną piłę w scyzoryku Vicrorinox'a. Można się bez nie obejść batonując drewno w poprzek, tnąc je w ten sposób na mniejsze kawałki ale tu nie widziałem potrzeby utrudniania sobie życia bo nie jest to filmik o batonowaniu w trudnych warunkach.
Strugać można patyki jeśli tak naprawdę nie jest zbyt mokro. W warunkach naprawdę wysokiej wilgotności (ulewa, czy wielodniowy deszcz) patyk, który jest sens strugać będzie zbyć cienki, żeby tam było jeszcze cokolwiek suchego na rozpałkę. W takiej sytuacji, klocek musi mieć minimum 10 cm średnicy, żeby drewno w środku było suche. Struganie czegoś takiego potrwało by pewnie do przybycia ekipy ratunkowej ;)
You look like bear grylls relative lol. Nice video. Get a gerber, jk.
Może ja w tym surwiwalu czegoś nie rozumiem. To jakaś nowomoda, czy rodzaj zabawy? Dla mnie albo idzie się w teren wyposażony w nóż, siekierę i piłę i podpałkę albo wcale. Wtedy nóż nie musi być kosmicznie mocny. Albo jest się po jakiejś katastrofie np. morskiej czy lotniczej ale wtedy nie ma co liczyć nawet na victorinoxa. Zabawa finką i krzesiwkiem jest dla mnie nie zrozumiała bo warunkach ekstremalnych i tak tego nie będę mieć a w warunkach normalnych jest bezsensowne dla mnie takie narażanie się. Być może w tym wszystkim wiele złego narobił ten oszołom Grylls, wprowadzając modę na takie głupoty. Choć nie, przed był jeszcze John Rambo. We wszystkich testach które widziałem nożami się batonuje, struga patyki krzesze iskry z krzesiwka. ew. wiesza na nich. Wszystko to odbywa się optymalnych warunkach, często w ogródku za domem. Jeszcze nie widziałem filmu, w którym to wszystko działa ale np. podczas śnieżycy, dużego mrozu, czy ulewy. No chyba , że takie są a ja na nie trafiłem.
To tyle, być może nie w temacie ale mam dziś wolne od pracy, więc co nieco skrobnąłem.
A autor strony da się zauważyć, że jest cierpliwy.
+Erich Holtz W trudnych warunkach dość trudno się filmuje. Zwłaszcza samemu. A jeśli ktoś jest w naprawdę survivalowej sytuacji, to jego ostatnim zmartwieniem będzie zadowalanie wymagań RUclipsrów. Ale zdarzało mi się rozpalać ogień krzesiwem w śniegu i na mrozie. I to krzesiwem kowalskim, używając do tego wyłącznie naturalnej i nietkniętej hubki. I tak, robiłem to wtedy bardziej dla zabawy. W ten sposób najlepiej się czegoś nauczyć.ruclips.net/video/s_RgXmg8LVw/видео.htmlm40s
Narzekanie, że większość treningów/demonstracji odbywa się w scenerii treningowej, to trochę jak zarzucanie żołnierzom, że trenują na poligonie a nie na prawdziwej wojnie, a do tego na pokazach nie strzelają do siebie ostra amunicją jak prawdziwi twardziele.
Testy są po to, żeby sprawdzić na co sobie można z danym nożem pozwolić, żeby być go pewnym kiedy zajdzie taka potrzeba.
+Simon's Discoveries Z drugiej strony to mówi się: "że najlepszym treningiem dla kolarza jest wyścig" albo co to za sztuka walki z której nie urządza się sparingów/zawodów" (podobno w aikido tak jest). Choć faktycznie w warunkach dużej wilgotności tak jak na tym filmiku trudno byłoby rozpalić nawet normalnym krzesiwkiem. Mnie zastanawia tylko sama idea zabawy w survival - chodzi np. o zabawę krzesiwkiem. Po co to komu jeśli istnieją o wiele bardziej skuteczne metody. Przyznaję, ja sam też często się tak bawię ale nigdy nie wybrałbym się w teren bez porządnego źródła ognia. Bywa, że szybkie rozpalenie ognia to sprawa zdrowia/życia. Przemoczone/przepocone ubranie, zgrabiałe/odmrożone dłonie. Wtedy zabawa w rozpalanie ognia może okazać się niewystarczająca.
Zastanawiam się czy to odpowiednie miejsce na tego typu dyskusje.
Erich Holtz Krzesiwo współczesne powstało dlatego, że jest najbardziej niezawodnym źródłem ognia. Jego używanie wymaga trochę wprawy ale kiedy się to już opanuje, to takie coś jest w zasadzie niezniszczalne. Ok, koroduje stosunkowo szybko w wodzie ale i tak jest praktycznie wodoodporne. Nie ma tam części ruchomych, więc nic się nie złamie, nie wypadnie ani nie rozszczelni. Działa w największym mrozie, na wietrze i przy największej wilgotności. Starcza na dłużej niż kilka zapalniczek czy paczek zapałek. Oczywiście jeśli wiemy jak z niego korzystać i nie jest jakieś miniaturowe. Do tego, krzesiwa można również użyć do sygnalizowania w nocy.
Zapalniczka się bardzo przydaje ale z doświadczenia wiem, że nie można im zbytnio ufać.
+Simon's Discoveries Zdecydowanie krzesiwo jest trwałe. Ja jednak nie jestem do końca przekonany do jego skuteczności. Pomimo wielokrotnego używania. Chodzi o jego dość skomplikowany proces użycia. Zapalniczka czy zapałki sztormowe (przez niektórych zwane szturmowymi) do tego np. rozpałka do grilla,w moim przypadku zawsze stawały się niezawodne. Podam przykład: kiedyś zapomniałem wsadzić buty do śpiwora a było ok - 30*C gdyby nie szybkie rozpalenie ognia mogło się to dla mnie skończyć odmrożeniami. To moje zdanie. Oczywiście człowiek uczy się całe życie.
To tyle. Nie chcę dalej zapełniać forum o nożach.
you should check out the bacho 2449 knife,its sk5 4mm thick and great scandigrind.
iscariot project I've heard of bahco knives but never of a 4 mm one. I'll make sure to look that up. Thanks.
the difference its a price thats all..
Different steel. ..
فديو بيييييض ويجيب الطفش
I'm almost positive that both of these knives are actually made by Mora lol.
+Mike J I highly doubt that, since Hultafors and Mora are two separate companies. They're just based in the same country but even the steel types they use are different and sourced from different countries..
+Simon's Discoveries Hultafors and Husqvarna are two different companies based in Sweden. Axes for both of those companies are made by Hultafors.
***** Where did you find that information? I've never heard of that. Yes they do have a similar hatchet model but they're sold with different logos, at different prices and at different head weights. They may be commissioning some of their work but that's different. Plus I don't even know if that's true.
***** BTW, Someone from Sweden once told me Hultafors was cheaper than Mora because their knives were made in Taiwan. Whereas Mora knives were still made in Sweden.
Hultafors Heavy Duty is better and cheaper
Why?
It's cheaper because, unlike Mora which is made in Sweden, Hultafors knives are made in Taiwan or something like that and use a potentially cheaper Japanese steel sk-5 rather than Scandinavian UHB-20C. Is it better? It's up to you :)
Well, Hultafors is taken from the Swedish village where the Company started, But yes, They manufacture tools in Sweden, Britain, Romania and China, So, They could come from any of four Countries, But they are not made in Taiwan, I know the Stainless Steel is AUS8A, They only claim the High carbon steel is a high quality Japanese hardened to 58 -60 HRC, The handle is certainly better than the Mora in terms of finger guard and if you are wearing gloves, And it`s usually cheaper, As with Taiwan, Some excellent knives do come out of there, It`s probably the case that the parts and machines are shipped in, And they are put together their only to save on labour costs alone, It`s not the case anymore of the old joke " Made in Taiwan " = Crap
xmoroseguyx I know the HC steel is sk-5 because I asked them and they replied :)
Привет !!!!!!!!
Hi
these knife test videos need to incorporate real life testing.....throw it under a moving train, leave it in the sea for a month etc etc
lmao
Dave Crosland but if I wear a knife in the sea for months I will drown.
@@EattinThurs61 haha!
The English review is here: ruclips.net/video/lLrq1hVqLLU/видео.html
😮v
Another fence sitter.
Mora robust 20 degree convex grind on a work sharp and it’s a knife… I hate scandi knives, they are always dull after the same use a convex secondary would be sharp as a razor…
It is ridiculous to test two blades, one with the factory sharpening and the other with a convex modification. This video is completely bias towards the Hultafors knife.
The only thing an abuse test like this proves is that you're willing to abuse knives. Knives are for cutting with. They are not for beating with a club. Be a real woodsman and use a hatchet, or a well-designed tomahawk, and a saw for processing wood. For bigger jobs, use an axe or a bucksaw. Or one of the new Silky Katanas. But there is never, ever an excuse to beat your best friend with a club. All it proves is that you watch all the wrong RUclips channels, and don't read history at all.
Do you really take an axe and a saw every time you go for a walk in the woods? I don't.
Michael Demers I never said I'd do it every time.
i like to use knife for batoning and making camping fire with only one knife :) I like this review. And I LIKE to see how much that knives are strong! :)
Michael Demers nobody care what are you doing every time in woods
+Matej Pollak ditto
You watch too much RUclips. Nothing is more disturbing than watching someone mistreat a good knife by beating on it with a club. There is never, ever a reason to do this. Only amateurs, which means people who learn everything they know from RUclips, beat their knives with a club. Get away from RUclips incest, read some actual books, learn what two thousand years of knife history has taught us, and then go out and buy a blasted hatchet, or a tomahawk with a hammer poll, and a saw. If you want to baton, do it right, and use a hatchet or a tomahawk.
+James Ritchie There is plenty of reasons to baton a knife. Even my grandmother did it. She died long before RUclips was even an idea. In fact, I made a video on that
ruclips.net/video/qBcsSnHNDdQ/видео.html
Good knife should take batoning without complaining. If it doesn't, it's not a good knife for me. Unless it's a specialised knife that I know not to baton like my Mora classic. It can take light batoning but it needs to be done gently with precision. Thanks for watching.