Why Your P-Trap Leaks At Connection Nut, Cracked Pipe Thread
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2020
- In this Kitchen P-Trap leaking repair video we'll show you 2 reasons why your kitchen sink P trap is leaking at the connection nut, and how to perform a correct kitchen P Trap installation. No more leaky p trap pipes for you, we'll show you how to fix a leaky sink drain pipe and you'll fix that p trap leaking at joint nut issue in no time.
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P trap leaking at connection
If you have a kitchen p trap leaking under your kitchen sink, and you look to see the p trap leaking at nut connection, it is due to the column of water that is always present inside the kitchen sink p trap. So the problem arise from that p-trap nut itself and the connection of the p trap outlet to the p trap arm.
Root cause of a leaky P Trap
Look on any kitchen p trap diagram, you'll see where the kitchen p-trap seal is located, the column of water that is always present in the p trap, that protects you from sewer gasses. Many people get a leaking p trap leaking at nuts and threads. That connection is always under water, and if it is not tightened perfectly straight and tight, you'll get p trap leaking at threads in no time.
changing p trap kitchen sink
Sometimes we have seen cases of a leaking p trap where the connection nut on the kitchen p trap installation is cracked, or the angled connection surfaces between the kitchen p-trap outlet and the p trap arm might have micro cracks forming, which allow the water to leak out of the trap seal. These are some of your common root causes for a leaky p trap.
p trap kitchen sink installation
People often look under the kitchen sink and see the p trap leaking from bottom side of the dip. What's really happening to cause the p-trap leaking kitchen sink is the water leaches out of the connection nut from the trap seal, you have a kitchen p trap leaking at threads and it it drips down the lower dip making the p trap leaking under sink everywhere. In the case of these transparent P-trap ABS tubes from Home Depot, they seem to be cracking like crazy around the threads of the pipe in the J bend where the trap seal column of water normally resides, just before it exists out of the P-trap arm.
So if you have a leaky p trap kitchen sink the first place to look is that P-trap nut where it might be dripping water. If you unscrew the nut you might find you have a p trap leaking at threads from cracked threads.
replace kitchen p trap
So if you have a leaking p trap and you find cracks, this video shows you how to replace the leaking kitchen p trap with a new stronger metal P-trap. If there are no cracks causing the p trap leaking at joint nuts where the p trap leak is, then try loosening the nuts, and re-seat the pipes, then tighten the P-trap connection nuts, make sure the threads are nice and tight, and retest. If you did everything right, you won't have a leaky p trap anymore.
What is worse is that it seems the p trap cracked for no reason, in this case p trap leaking at threads. Maybe it was caused by temperature cycling, or maybe there was a manufacturing problem that caused these transparent P-traps to to become a p trap leaking at threads. 
Хобби
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💲 White plastic Everbilt 1-1/2 in. Plastic P-Trap you should use: amzn.to/39erLxd
Thanks for the walk through. I was going nuts with a similar situation on one bathroom sink p trap which kept leaking. I changed over to a metal one and installed it in the exact order (and tightening order) that you suggested and it looks like my issue is fixed.
Thanks for the video!
Great videos. I installed the clear plastic p trap. All was well then a major leak developed. Trap had numerous hair-line cracks. I thought it was my fault until I saw this video. Thanks. You saved me...I replaced with a Snappy Trap which, like the metal one, has its own compression seal.
Nice work! just keep in mind, there is controversy over whether Snappy Trap violates the plumbing code, because it says in the code not to use flexible P-traps.
I agree with the other viewers it high heat & cold temperatures..good vid👍
Yes, first thing that popped into our mind as well is that the combination of the compression of the nuts and the threads causing the plastic to shrink, while hot water makes it want to expand, and it has nowhere to go so it cracks. We are starting testing that could last for weeks with temp cycling, and pouring food down the drain.
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching
Great video Jeff... I’ve taken the p-trap apart many times in the sink to clean out the pipes because of the disposal shooting food up the other side of the sink. The Mrs likes to dump pasta into the disposal and other stuff in large quantities. After watching this, I’m surprised I never had an issue with that connection. Then again, I’ve always had the other connections loose while aligning the p-trap.
Bill if you have food and water coming out the other sink, it sounds like you have the beginnings of a clog down the line to the sewer, and you're going to see this get worse. We have seen this many times, we have it right now in our kitchen, my plumber friend will be coming by this week to snake our waste line. Cost about $100 to $150 to have a plumber come out, remove the P-trap. send their motorized rotating snake into the waste line coming out of the kitchen wall, and it spins the snake in place as it works it's way down the line, clearing all clogs. Then you'll be back to normal again. I always tell people not to use the garbage disposal as a trash bag for food, only put minimal stuff in there, nothing fat, or greasy or slimy, even if the grease is a nice liquid at room temperature, it will turn thick and gooey further down the line in cold pipes. NEVER put chicken fat, or pour grease, etc. Never put bones or corn husks that could get jammed and cause clogs. Every week, run a couple of cups of ice through the disposal, and always run the disposal with COLD water, not hot water.
jeffostroff thanks for the advice. In the last 12 years, I’ve only had it clog the other side of the sink about 4 times, and it was always after she would dump a lot of spaghetti, potato peels and such. It was never clogged past the p-trap heading down to the sewer.
@@MrStanwyck You're really not supposed to dump all that stuff down there they tell you to use a strainer 1st and dump everything out of the strainer and whatever little bits and of other stuff that scrape off the plates may be yes but I always use the stream the 1st so that hardly anything ever gets down to the garbage disposal.
jeffostroff Try to tell my wife that. It’s a losing battle. Thanks for the great advice and enjoy your day....
Thank you. This is useful.
Glad it was helpful!
you rock
Great advice
Thanks!
I have done plumbing work for over 45 years, professionally. I have never used the transparent traps, but that appears to be a problem with temperature, namely expansion and contraction. I'd say that they have a problem with the recipe that they are using in the plastic. It will be interesting to see what you find, in your testing!
I hope I can duplicate it, I'd hate for this to be one of those unsolved mysteries.
@@jeffostroff Did you ever figure it out? What happened to the traps you submerged?
@@CupidFromKentucky Nothing happened to the submerged ones I thought I could duplicate it but nothing happened. I'm going to try boiling water next
@@jeffostroff I've had 3 that failed on me.
I've never had issues with our white p-traps leaking in the 20 years I've been a homeowner. As long as they are hand tightened, and like you said, seated properly, , they won't leak.
Yes same here also I have never had a white P trap fail only these new transparent ones are failing
Great video as always! I hope you can help me with a bathroom plumbing problem. When the water is running, there is no leak at the P-trap connection. However, leaking occurs at the connection joint between the trap arm/outlet tube and wall drain adapter after the water was turned off. The leak is very slow, just a few drops of water. I've replaced a new trap kit, tightened the compress nut, taped Teflon on the thread ends, and used a rubber washer instead. None of my efforts is working. What could it possibly go wrong? How should I fix it? Thank you.
We have a video that solves this issue: ruclips.net/video/cEjiICErSQg/видео.html
@@jeffostroff It's still leaking at the connection joint between the outlet tube and wall drain adapter.
I've never used the transparent ones, but I just put 2 of the white ones in my own house and there fine
Yea mine is leaking I bought a new one at ace it leaks out of the bag worse than the old one. Whats going on do i have to build one out of pvc. And no its not sloped. I always connect it togher first to make sure.
I would submerse the clear P-Trap in mild hot soapy dish water and then hot soapy water from a dishwasher. Petroleum based products tend to dry out of oil.
Yes I want to run some temp cycling on this too.
A good topic- I appreciate your tips on avoiding leaks. I thought I was the only one who had fussy p-traps. Does your customer in this instance cook much pasta, boiled potatoes, etc and then pour the boiling liquid into the drain? I have no problem believe those clear traps are made of inferior plastic but I also wonder why they fall so quickly in that installation.
We will be finding out, we are starting testing this week that could last for weeks with temp cycling, and pouring food down the drain.
Look at how the angle of wall tube is putting stress on the J bend. The brass p trap has longer J bend and wall tube sits more flush with trap arm. That’s what’s causing it to crack. The stress and angle of wall outlet tube is causing the crack.
30year plumber here, I and the guys that work for me never use there kinds of tubular traps . prefer using ABS or PVC no tubular P- traps, no thread s to leak there glued!! Never had a call back on a ptrap in 20 years.
Yes, that's how they made them back in the 1970s here, nice and tough. Now it's all DIY friendly tubes. They do OK as long as they are installed correctly, but people don't know how to tighten the weir nut first to prevent leaks, AND they jam way too much stuff under the sink and force the door shut, making compression forces against the P-trap, causing leaks.
Hi Jeff,
Do you guys ever have to deal with lead pipes in your area?
I have not seen any yet, but we do have to deal with galvanized pipe in our area for home built in the 40s-60s. Very bad, they rust and clog themselves shut like bad arteries in a heart patient.
@@jeffostroff This video brought up something I've observed but but never thought about. Have you ever noticed if you empty a whole bowl of water through the disposal , they shake like mad, i mean seems to vibrate the whole house sort of thing, such massive shaken would put a lot of stress on the joints, maybe that's why they loosen up? If those clear ones are brittle might explain it.
I installed a clear p trap yesterday I only hand tightened it. And it cracked today I’m pissed. It was on a bathroom sink it did not have a pump on it or a macerator. Now I have to replace it with a sch 40 p trap.
Jack we are coincidentally working on a video tonight about this, showing 2 that cracked, within weeks, hope to have this video up in a couple of days. There's a problem with these, ad we are now warning people not to use them.
I just installed a metal p-trap, and it is dripping a little bit from the same spot (no gasket spot). I tightened it pretty hard with channel locks, is it supposed to be hand tightened like you did with the poly tube? Or am I supposed to tighten it hard because its metal? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The trick is once you have all the parts fitted together, make sure that washerless connection both parts are perfectly fitted to one another, the upper part has that angled shape at the bottom that fits into the bowl shaped opening on the lower p-trap pipe. The trick is to make sure that one is perfect and tightened before any of the other connections are tightened. Satisfy him first and the rest will fall into place.
@@jeffostroff
Ok, I understand, I will do that when I get home. I think I did it wrong. I appreciate your time and video.
@@jeffostroff
Oh yeah, do I need to out plumbers tape on the threads of the upper part?
hot water then cold water could be causing the cracking. just going from 1 extreme to the other can cause cracking. @ 15:07 the metal one had a big drip.
Yes, we still had water all over those pipes, I was still drying off the pipes when I filmed that scene, but trust me it's all OK now. We plan on temp cycle testing these traps in water baths, could take several weeks.
Wow. I've never used the clear P-Traps. All I know is these style P-Traps in general are a PITA lol. The plastic must not be as durable in the clear version, maybe hot & cold water over time deteriorates it. I usually tighten the nuts hand tight, and just give them a 1/8 - 1/4 turn with the wrench if needed. Sometimes I've had to use a little teflon pipe dope paste on the joints.
Yes, I have seen a few guys do that in the past.
Hi Jeff, this was a mystery,eh? I took a little time and looked it up clear PP has a different chemical make-up to white PP. The clear can be brittle over the white. The different colours also have a different thermal expansion
I'd like to read up on some of that, got any links to where you found it?
@@jeffostroff omnexus.specialchem.com/selection-guide/polypropylene-pp-plastic#Types
White PP is mostly this: Polypropylene Homopolymer as PP doesn't come optically clear, whereas Polypropylene Random Copolymer makes for optically clear PP
@@jeffostroff One thing I just found out is our good supply house Plumbers Supply in St louis, when you ask for a P-Trap you get one of these: www.jonesstephens.com/product/p37003/?_filter_product_category=category-tubular&_filter_product_sub_category=sub_category-pvc-plastic
Good afternoon Jeff check out Home Depots Special Buy of the week today one I thought was excellent is the Stanley 1/4 in. & 3/8 in. Drive Full Polish Chrome SAE & Metric Mechanic Tool Set (97-Piece) w/ Bonus Mechanic Tool Set (68pc) for $119 but there are others hope you can get a vid up today
I disconnected it to clean clog, after reconnected it the nut is not dripping but there is some water on the connection nut, is this okay?
No it is not OK it should be completely dry not a single drop of water that means you're going to have drops that are going to start coming out even if it's only a few drops a day it will add up over weeks. So you probably need to adjust that connection a little bit more and tighten it first before any of the others to make sure that connection is satisfied first period and then dry it off real good make sure you don't feel any water and check on it every day for a few days and make sure that there's no moisture coming out at the nut
Jeff can I still use a WHITE ONE P - TRAP?
yes, just don't use the clear
My guess in a lot of these is vibrations from the garbage disposal are cracking the thin brittle plastic. That's why it takes a little while.
Dishwasher detergent might do it also
I will experiment with that and also with hot water next
@@jeffostroff Or, just put one in the dishwasher for a few cycles. The hazing on the trap I see looks just like what happens to cheap plastic when put in the dishwasher. The heat of the dishwasher activates the detergent, and it even attacks plastic dishwasher parts (thank you, Kitchen Aid! On my third rack slide in 6 years, but I digress).
I spent hours and hours unconnecting and reconnecting this thing. The water just poured out. And then finally not changing anything about how I was connecting it,, I reconnected it and the water drained without leaking. I think it might be because I finally got that primary connection he speaks of aligned right. There were multiple washers included in the kit I bought, but none of them was the right size, so what could I do? Of course, I just didn't use one. I'm just praying this thing doesn't start pouring water again. At least now I know how finicky that connection is and to pay special attention to the alignment of that one joint.
Now you can help others who will likely have this same issue
In Europe we have a washer there instead of plastic to plastic seal. Much better
My guess is that it is caused by heat cycling - the thing can't cope with the expansion and contraction as hot water and cold water pass through it, and that eventually causes small cracks to form and spread. There might be some actual embrittlement going on too. Either way, it looks as though the material simply isn't suited to the task.
Home Depot sells made in China p traps. Lowe’s sells Kerry made in the USA p traps they seem to be of better quality
they all fail. Supposedly clear ABS is more brittle than white
I came to this video because I was that Neanderthal with the channel locks you were talking about. Guilty as charged! But, I am not going to make the same mistake twice. Very informative video.
Yes, we all made that mistake! I'm surprised the p-trap makers don't supply channelocks in the bag so we can break the P-trap nut and have to buy another P-trap.
Detergents effect acrylic and causes cracking. High temperature will also effect it. Use PVC …
Yes, must have been the high temp
I'm guessing you're in Florida, I'm 61 and thinking of retiring there to annoy & possibly live with my Ex-wife. Is there a school for home inspectors? I have some construction experience but I know when somethings wrong (most of the time) by looking at it. I want what's best for the customer & the seller.
That would be awesome Edward, both annoying the ex-wife and being a home inspector. I'll check with my friends who own Gold Coast Schools in Tamarac, FL here, outside Ft. Lauderdale. I know another one is The Ashi School. Most trianing courses are a few thousand $, but generally cover everything you need to know to be licensed, etc.
Hay, if she's willing to take you in , she can't be that bad,, ay,lol
@@toddt6730 True very true!
That is why I use glue only ones. I hate leaks.
Yes, the good old days they used the big beefy 1 1/2" PVC cement fittings, not removable by owners, then laws changed so that owners could remove the trap to retrieve Grandma's wedding ring.
But no for real it’s probably the heat cycles from hot and cold water possibly grease I don’t know your friends drain habits. In combination with the cheap material.
When I installed her new garbage disposal, I went through with her all the things to do and not do, told her to run ice through there at least once a week, not chicken fat, wipe off dishes into the trash, don't use the disposal as the trash bag for food. So I doubt anything bad went down there.
Maybe hot water from dishwasher
my wife would slam the garbage pail against it or the kids would play hide & seek & break the P trap.
We had a flip condo for sale 2 years ago and the buyer's home inspector came in, grabbed my P-trap pipe and shook it real hard, then later reported we had a leak at the P-trap, that was operating with no problem for 6 months before he showed up.
Those clear pipes must be made out of the same plastic that is in all Volkswagen vehicles. My god such brittle plastic. Horrible. Anyone that has worked on a VW knows what I am talking about. 😂
With that said, I’m reminded of some years/brands of cars plastic headlights turn white or yellow in the sun and other last much longer without deteriorating. I’d love to use those clear ABS p-traps but it sounds like it was never solved so I’m off to buy a white one today (thought I’d check YT for tips and it is paying off)! Thanks
Another common mistake that people make Is calling a handyman that uses Home Depot parts to work on there plumbing system. If you don’t want to have issues call a licensed plumber. 🤣
I got news for you, the licensed plumbers I've seen all use these parts. Just look at the parking lot of Home Depot, and all the plumber contractor vans are there, and I see them every day putting bags of P-traps in their shopping carts.
jeffostroff is that how it is in Florida? O yah your plumbers charge like 70$ an hour? Am I right. I’m a plumber in Greenwich CT we are held to a higher standard when we charge 135$ an hour. My mistake.Guess I should’ve said hire a plumber from up north
@@darrinscoilsclouds1498 Most of the plumbers I've seen down here charge about $120 to $150 an hour. Couple of years ago we had to have a kitchen sink snaked down into the sewer at 1 of our projects and the plumber charged a $135 was gone 30 minutes after he arrived.
jeffostroff sewer and drain cleaning is a separate trade. To snake a secondary drain line 250$ and a main drain line 475$ and that’s not overtime hours call for a drain to be snaked on a Sunday forget about it. You got someone to snake a kitchen drain for 135 that’s a great deal. And I’d be really upset if a “ Florida Man” came to my house and charged 135$ to put in cheap Home Depot crap.
jeffostroff what part of Florida gets paid like that?
Use sch 40 traps they never leak they last the poly tubes leak leak leak
Yes a lot of builders here in the 19870s used PVC traps.
@@jeffostroff i see alot of those old yellow genova p traps. they are very nice quality.
I CAN TELL WHAT IS AN ISSUE WITH THIS TYPE OF TRAP ?
Yes
In my opinion Everbilt products are poor quality. Home Depot needs to step up their quality assurance on Everbuilt items. I avoid Everbilt like the plaque.
Who TF uses cheap plastic p-traps? Why? PVC or ABS and wrap the threads with 2 layers of teflon tape, wrapping in direction of threading. DONE.