Changing Sink Taps the Easy Way
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 янв 2023
- 🛒 amzn.to/3VXoudr
Silverline Box Spanner Set
🛒 amzn.to/3QdTO6d
15MM X 1/2" BSP Adaptor for Flexible Tap Tail Connector
========================================
#taps #diy #diyhacks
🔗 Skill Builder Link Tree: linktr.ee/skillbuilder
👍 Tell us what you like: skill-builder.uk/vote
📪 Ask Skill Builder: skill-builder.uk/send
🎥 TikTok: / skillbuilder
📣 Facebook: / skillbuilderchannel
📷 Instagram: / skill_builder
🛒 As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases
🎬 All videos: ruclips.net/user/skillbuilderc...
💧 We Support Charity Water: www.charitywater.org
◾ Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we'll remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.
I usually put a tiny smear of silicone grease on the O-rings. Just to make sure they don't distort in any way.
Yeah, use silicone grease, but not the automotive grade as it rots the rubber gasket. I use a high vacuum type not damaging to rubber.
Just wet the o rings you dont need a spanner to do them up they dont even need to be completly tight they dont leak as long as the oring dont catch when doing them up ,flexi pipes purst if the brade is damaged if you see any rust then replace them straight away the rubber inside will just burst if not supported
@@HighWealder I'm a professional Plumber I don't go into Halfords to buy my consumables.
That's why I always keep extra radiator tails that aren't used when changing valves. Good for tap connections.
Just fit flat faced male Iso valves. One connection with an Isolator.
Great point! Good tip
Always keep rad tails, any extra fittings, olives, nuts and the line. My plumbing box often has more in it than screwfix have in stock!
You made it much more difficult than needed. The under-sink plate should be put on BEFORE you push all the hoses through the hole. Notice the plate is C shaped. That way you can put one side through, then the other side so you don't have to thread it on from underneath. Then you only have to tighten the bolt, not have to hold everything from the top and try to thread the nut while keeping the plates from falling off. The manufacturer doesn't usually diagram this in the instructions. But from those of us who have done it a lot, those C-shaped plates really save a lot of frustration and time.
What you need are flat face iso valves, they come with one end for compression and olive over side is a flat face with thread. Flat Face Iso Valves.
Ah that is great. My merchant doesn't stock them but now I know where to get them. We will include a link
I've never actually seen these but I use the brass inserts which give a flat face for the fitting. I'm not a plumber and I'm surprised so few people know this. They just tighten up on the tapered face. Edit. (I wrote that before I got to the end of the video)!
You can use 15mm rad tails in standard isos! !
@@johncummins3860 yes you can. but you will need to purchase extra radiator valve tails and you are adding an extra join (another potentional fail joint). Iso > tail > flexi instead of iso > flexi. Its cheaper, quicker and less joints if you use the correct flatface iso. However as we all know with plumbing, it can often be what you have to hand at the time, so it would be good to keep some FF Iso in the van at all times. 😀 But i guess if you turn upto a job and there are standard ISOs already installed on the pipe, using tails could be an option if you dont want to replace the ISOs or you canget get the stop top off etc.
I always fully open the taps and turn the water on via the service valves to flush the pipework, and to stop any debris getting caught in those super fragile ceramic valves.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It's great to have these things explained by someone who knows what they are doing. As a DIY-er I'm always left wondering if there was a better way to do things.
You helped me here. Thanks. Removing an old crusty tap, the nut wouldnt loosen for hours. Wd40 and enlisting my wife to hold the tap body so it didnt twist as i turned, it EVENTUALLY got the nut off, but the plate and tap STILL wohldnt budge. Watched your vid to see if there was another fastener or something and i saw there wasnt. This gave me the courage to give it a good hard pull from the top, and it finally came off. 👍
Did one of these a few months ago, happily didn't have to connect directly to an isolation valve because I had no idea about filing them down.
Huge thanks for the top tip.
Also I don't like the isolation valves you have to turn with a flat head screwdriver because they fail suddenly and you are in a world of water.
My first house 22 years ago at 2am the isolation valve on the bathroom radiator bridging system failed and I had to pay an emergency plumber £260 to come out.
He drained down the system, which I could have done if I'd ever lived in a house with central heating before and knew how it worked, and then told me I'd have to get someone else to fix the valve.
At least he came out.
The ceiling would probably have fallen in otherwise as there was no way to get any receptacle under the valve because it was so low to the floor.
Another great video, thanks so much. Really liked the pro tip at the end about gently flattening the seat of the isolating valve so as not to cut the washer on the flexi.
Great to see the little nicks and cuts on your hands Roger - shows you're still very much on the tools!
Much appreciated 👍👌👏
The one thing I hate about the flathead screw isolation valves is when they've rusted and become hard to turn. Much prefer the ones with a handle, and better still the metal version versus the plastic ones which are hollow and often become brittle and snap off.
Good video nonetheless Roger!
I was once fitting a new sink unit at a chemical factory canteen. Turned the (cold) isolating valve... it had corroded so badly that the core shot out like a bullet. The water pressure down there was unreal. Had my apprentice holding a towel around it while my boss and I found the main stop tap, in the boiler room. The apprentice was soaked to the skin. Never trusted them since - I always locate the main stop tap, and fit new isolators when fitting a kitchen. The Screwfix ones always dribble too, without ptfe tape. Peglar ones with the handle are the best.
I hate it when you've struggled for 45mins taking out and fitting the tap, turn back on and the isolations start to leak out the slotted part, always seems to happen on one's tight behind the waste pipe too..
In the USA we call those shut of valves under the sink "Angle Stops". When replacing a sink faucet I never touch those little shut off valves, I turn off the main.
@@johnriggs4929 That escalated quickly! We may all love a challenge or two - but not like that...
The one time I had a valve give in, at least the pressure wasn’t too great to cap it off. All the same it looked like a sitcom scene with water spraying everywhere “and there was yelling and screeching noises and what one point i was facing the wrong direction.” It’s amazing how soaked you can get in mere seconds.
Another couple of tips are that the tap back plate can be installed from the top , hence that crescent moon shape. Another is I use Hepworth irons on the bottom of the Felix (Screwfix sell them) and this prevents twisting the Flexi when tightening.
that is a good tip
When using isolation valves get the mains pressure ones as they're a far better quality than the normal ones which normally end up leaking or not working, I use a bit of thread seal or ptfe tape and don't tighten the flexi up too much. Great videos as always unlike so many on RUclips that are wrong, wrong and wrong!
Always get some useful advice in Roger's videos. Keep 'em coming.👍
A great video, full of tips; I’ve sanded, rather than filed , valves before, using emery on a board and holding the valve, as I find this easier to get a flat, 90 degree surface for the washer to engage with.
Important point about the 90 degree angle. For good sealing the contact faces should be flat with one another.
You can get 15mm-1/2"bsp isolating valves . Seems like a no brainer to me.
Above all else never accidentally rub your fingers over any cut outs in the stainless steel sink. I wiped a sink with a wonder wipe prior to fitting the tap and didn’t realise until the sink filled with blood that I had completely cut 1 inch of my finger tip off. Luckily it was stitched back on otherwise I was in for a skin graft. When they say the edges are sharp they ain’t kidding.😂
Very easily done. Not had as bad an injury as you but certainly had a good few cuts from sinks and they do seem to be of the deep type that just keep on bleeding.
😮
On some taps, especially basin taps you don't have any other way than use flexi to tighten. And by hand it is enough. Install some of them before ten years and they still working properly.
Thank you. I always use those brass tap adapters, always gives you peace of mind that it won't leak!
Great video Roger !! Thanks
Nice tip, I've fitted the exact same tap in my kitchen.
The hardest part is often not the fitting but the removing of the original mixer tap. If it's been leaking, which is why it's being replaced and it's been for a while the nuts behind have rusted solid. Couple that with terrible access
Definenetely the most important issue is the awful access to the removal of the tap being behind back of the sink bowl no room no visibility maybe this should of been covered first rather than fitting new unit after the old one had been already remove?
@Jon Lennon true but the whole video would be bleeped out,as you may know it'll make you swear from start to finish 😡
ive had them rusted solid .. i right pain with nobody to hold the tap
Wd40 is my best friend
Get your tap spanner on the nut and wrench it back and forwards til the bolt snaps.
Fascinates me how we (in 2023) still have to fiddle around making things fit. How hard can it be?! Great video - thanks.
Quite right. It is because designers of these products have never fitted one. I have done quite a bit of simple plumbing in my time as a diyer. Now i tend to get a plumber in as I hate the fiddlyness of it all..
Yep. Putting nuts and other connections inside tiny spaces where regular tools can't fit would be evil if it was intentional.
Thanks for the tips. Saved me a long job.
Its great having someone like rodger doing demonstration showing all the handy things we ameteurs need to know. 👍👍
I had to change a leaking tap about 6 months ago, and had no idea it would be so fiddly.
As some have said here, half the trouble was removing the previous half rusted fittings...a great tip about the box spanners - that would have made things a whole lot easier!! 😂
The last time I replaced a couple of taps, I found it easier just to take the sink out. This was after a lot of sweating, cursing, and holding my tongue at what I thought was the right angle under the sink.
Next time change the seal
@@pepsitwsit That depends where the leak is coming from. Even with a leak topside, getting the top of a tap apart can be a challenge. Mineral deposits can make them so hard to take apart without damage that it is often better to just replace them.
Perfect timing, on my list of jobs to do this week 👍
Roger i honestly thought you were going to show everyone the correct way. That is to put the washer and locking nut on from above and twist through the hole. Making the whole job so much easier.
Admittedly i only discovered this 6 months ago thanks to a young lad on tik tok after 25 yrs plumbing.
Need an update mate.
Great vid anyway 👍🏼
Hi John
I have never done that because I always found if hard to get the flexis in and then the plate but so many people have given this tip that I will indeed do an update. You never stop learning
That only works on thin sink tops. Not ceramic, granite or similar. Also cut that threaded stud to a length to suit what you’re fixing to, it’s that length to suit various thicknesses.
Hi max,
Myself and a few plumber pals have all adopted this way and it works just as easy with 40mm thuck work tops. I've done a replacement this morning in fact.
Still keep grinning to myself when i do it.😂
@@maxbee4460 Brilliant idea! Thanks.
That video was mine young sir. It went a bit viral on tiktok and had a lot of copy tiktoks weeks after. I've never had an issue fitting the flexi's from above except maybe on a hole cut through a thick wood worktop. 👍
Good tips, overall it is worthwhile to realize there are different fittings for different purposes and they do not neccessarily work together. When in doubt ask your hardware person, they tend to have a decent idea of what goes where. Using the right parts will never backfire :) Flex extensions are a real easy solution for those of us who do not have a pipe bender on hand. I like to put a bit of silicone grease (not kit, but the lubricant/sealant type) on the washer between the tap and counter for just that bit of extra seal longevity.
Thank you so much
Them last adapters are exactly what I need! Cheers!
Great video with really practical tips 👍
Always great vids cheers mate.
Thanks Roger. This video is damning evidence my landlord's tradesman is a cowboy, a proper bandit. Keep up the good work, it gives me a bit of hope
"What is problem, I do many of such in Old Country!", perchance?
Well done and thanks awfully for all the good tips..👌🏻
Sometimes after fitting the tap the surface of the stainless steel on cheaper sinks is so thin that it will flex and so the tap does not feel rigid. I make a triangular shaped bracket (to avoid the flex hoses) with a drill hole corresponding to the tap mounting bolt diameter and slide it up and secure it with a couple of screws to the underside of the work surface. This means that the tap is now secured not just to the stainless steel but has some lateral support 3cm below. Stops tall taps waggling about.
brilliant tip about joining the box spanners
4th option - you can buy isolating valves that have a flat edge (on one side only) same as the brass connector. I made my local supplier get them and they sell them like crazy
bes sell them
We call them angle valves
@@thunderstorm6616 - no angle valves are the L shaped isolating valves with the fibre washer right? No these are straight isolating valves with one end flat, they are designed to take a flexi
On a recent install I added a spring washer just to keep the mechanical connection of the tap to the sink tight.
I always use tap tails that you showed in the end there, so much easier.
I reckon that if I watched every video I could build a complete house, once again brilliant video
Good tip about the sharp edges on isolating valves.
You can also now buy flat faced isolating valves that have a compression olive on one side and the smooth flat face on the other.
After having a couple of disasters with rubber lined flexi's splitting I hard pipe everything in where possible, you can still get copper tails to fit monobloc's. The only pair of flexi's I've got in the house are JG speedfit - the white coloured ones that don't have the stainless braided outer, I think they are a similar material to washing machine hoses, much tougher than the braded rubber ones IMHO.
I've not yet had a problem with flexis...I have some in my house that are over 15 years old..I always find it funny that some plumbers say that but they will use pushfit and rely solely on a small rubber o ring
You've been very lucky mate, personally I've never had a rubber lined flexi last more than 6 years before they blow, usually 5 years was the average life, as soon as you see them start to look a bit rusty that should be the warning sign, unfortunately they're usually forgotten about and not checked.
With push fit fittings if an O ring goes all you'll get is a weep usually, not a full explosion like with rubber lined flexi's, I know what I'd rather have. @@davewright9312
There is always something more to learn! Good stuff.
Thanks
I always use copper tails and chuck them away
great tips cheers
Spot on I have always done it this way .
@3.30 the reason those are that shape is so you can fit it through the hole from the top, no faffing about trying to hold stuff up under the sink (slotting in as one unit), then simply tighten the nut up under the sink,
Well spotted m.sweeney he has done that all wrong and made it difficult for himself 👍👍👍👍👍👍
You are right Jim
piggybacking the box spanners, such a useful tip!
Top video, thank you. Good tip at the end. :)
Fitted a tap for my daughter a year ago which came in 2 parts: a base which fitted to the sink, and the mixer body which pushed onto the base. The mixer body was then retained to the base by 2 grub screws. Subsequently I have heard that this design may not be safe, as if the screws come loose the mixer body can be pushed off by the water pressure. Any thoughts on this ? Oh, and excellent video as usual.
Great tips as always… and Congratulations on the 500k+ subs! 🎉🥳 Well deserved guys!
Thanks very much
I've watched a few of your videos and I find them very informative and straight to the point. Subscription selected. Keep them coming.
Thank you for subscribing. We have over 700 videos now so plenty to go at.
Any advice on how to fit a bath plug? I just bought one and it said "if in doubt consult a plumber to fit" on the packaging.
Love it... maybe Roger could do a video...
You can also get Flat Faced Isolating Valves. For my own DIY I pay more and replace the flexis for ones with push-fit connectors at the pipe end and also replace the isolators with push-fit versions, just easier. I can justify the extra cost cos I'm not paying for a plumber 🙂. Push-fit rocks! the o-ring is the best invention since the tap.
Is it really worth fitting isolation valves? They always seem to be seized up when you first need to turn them off after they've been in use for ten years.
wau,its amazing,,,,,,,good job .still learning,,,all the way from kenya
I used an adaptor into a combined isolation checkvalave. Simple.
Nicely done, but before you do all that, put a cloth on the worktop/sink to protect it from potential scratches. Watching those nuts flail around while you worked on the Flexi tubes made me wince.
Good tip ref ganging up the box spanners
Great video Roger, had a flexi go in bathroom was down stairs at the time lucky but wow 😅 made a mess quick
Silverline and Rothenberger sell Monoblock spanner sets which are longer than the box spanners linked in the video. I got a set after watching this video, so thanks. Could have wasted a lot of time without them, both cost less than a tenner on Amazon.
A drop of Loctite on the flexi threads would stop them coming undone by accident, but would that cause more problems than it solves?
Had lots of practice in my home as wife wants the changing out every two to three years, this year they are black, I don't nip up the hoses as I find that hand tight is fine never leaked. I always have problems with the plug hole leaking even with seals top and bottom so rightly or wrongly just put a line of silicone around the threads that makes a better seal. Just have to make sure the overflow hole lines up with the cut out on the plughole. I invested in a set of box spanners when I was a Handyman and they have served me well.
Those tail adaptors are brilliant, cost almost nothing and give peace of mind.
The backplate and washer are half moon for a reason they go through top of sink with tap makes it a lot easier
Personally, I like tap tails. Allowing me to plumb into a convenient place, where access to hit and cold supplies is made easy. Stick the tap tails on the tap, stick them through the sink unit. Then thread then onto the water supplies.
I usually file off one end of the iso valve , but now you can actually buy isolation valves that have one flat end
Did you know you can fit the clamp rubber and plate lose on the threaded rod and pass the plate and rubber through the sink top from the top. Saves struggling under the sink to try and fit the plate and nut from underneath. It took me 40 yrs in trade to work that one out! as to the valves take the sharp edge of with a fine file so you have a flat face to the flex washer save on the need for extra fittings or I use a bench mounted belt / grinder as it is easier to ensure that the face is flat and square. it does not need a large flat. Keep up the good work.
Exactly 👍
20 years here and only figured it out 6 months ago thanks to a n other youtuber.
Yep, same here after 25 years plumbing a young kid on tik tok showed me and every other plumber i know how to do this.😂
Hi Roger, what is that red-handled grip tool in your video?
Cheers, Roger-from-another-mother, always great to watch.
Hey Rogerborg, what's that biker chatroom you run about in. Been a while and I've forgotten the name..... XBiker.
why not put a bit of acidfree-vaseline on the o-rings? lesser change they will break turning them in....
Good little tip there.
Have done this same job myself.
I did this not to long ago its an easy job really, was a pain to get the nut done up tight under the sink as i didn't have a long enough spanner for it but other than that 100% a DIY job
I add a little rubber grease to the flexi pipe o rings just to help things along a bit.
You can actually buy the isolators with the flat ends to fit the flexi pipe ends with rubber seals
roger i have seen a video where they put the horseshoe and bolt on first then feed it down from the top if i find it all send you it
I've come across leaking joints between G1/2" x G1/2" flexi's connected to 15mm x 15mm compression isolating valves on bathroom sink taps. You can actually buy 15mm compression x G1/2" flat end isolating valves and they are not expensive. I think it's often a case of whatever the plumber has in his van will do.
Thanks Eric, I now know about the Male iron isolating valves and my merchant will soon be stocking them.
Nice video....In the USA we call those shut of valves under the sink "Angle Stops". When replacing a sink faucet I never touch those little shut off valves, I turn off the main. Hand tight is good on those water flex... they won't unscrew by themselves. Removing the old valve is usually the hardest part. Having a 4" cordless grinder with a cut-off wheel is very useful from above...be careful not to scratch the sink. Single handle faucets are much more ergonomic than that 2 handle piece of dung.
Toolstation used to sell an isolation valve specifically with a flat flange for this very reason. Not sure that they do anymore. Screwfix dont. Why?
How do you pull out the old tap?
some good tips there roger, ill go with some tap tail adapters next time i think. didnt know there were available. when fitting kitchen taps i do the same thing staking the box spanners together but i also then rather than using the toggle bar thing to tighten it i use my rad tail ratchet to tighten the tap. then i can do it up one handed. my ratchet fits in the bottom end of the lowest box spanner and it works really well
That is a great tip, I am saving up for a rad tail ratchet.
@@SkillBuilder about £25 from toolstation
Radiator valve tails, I always have a few knocking around on the van, connect them in the end of the ballofix valve then screw the flex on to them.
This is how its been in Belgium ever since I moved here in 1997. Probably before. Nice to see UK catching up with "the continent ". Notice you still have two separate taps though rather than one like we have here.
Saw you on a GB News interview 👍,
Keepup the good work!
Thanks, will do! I got a lot of flack for that but I don't mind
Nice tip about combining to lengthen. I feel stupid I did not realise you could do that!
and how did you get that old tap out????
I use a socket set, extension bar with a 360 knuckle on the socket, means you dont have to get dead straight on the nut.
Brilliant, I never thought of putting the box spannsrs together.
Why don't manufacturers supply flexi pipes with built in isolators?
Because people prefer to pay £5 less for the tap kit, then £10 more for the isolators.
Because if the iso was affixed to the flexi, you would have to remove the iso and flex from the pipework, meaning you would have to turn off the water to the house to change a tap, rendering the iso pointless
@@RubberduckbathroomsCoUk good point, was wondering how long it would take for somebody to mention that 😂😂👍
I just had to replace my tap and used all the tips you have detailed but I couldn't get the box spanner on fully due to the back of the cabinet being in line with the nut. Also I had to remove all the drainage pipe just to get access. New builds are a real pain. The tap works fine but it's not tight to the sink top and I can see it moving later.
It probably will, I'd either cut out a bit of the wood if you can get a multi tool on it, or use long nose variables or short length variables, but it'll be one of those annoying 1/16th of a turn at a time, flip spanner, slight turn again etc... Highly annoying as no doubt you'll only be able to use one hand and not see what you're doing..
I got a plumber in to change mine as it's a sink under a granite top and when I had a look later the ham couldn't even put the retainer on straight.
Nice one Rodg
trust me i had that tap and flexis....
one burst at 4 am.....it flooded the kitchen totally.
Rog, happy new year to you. I recently changed my tap for one of these with a flexible head, is it normal for the pressure of the water to be reduced dramatically?
Hi Stephen
Unfortunately a lot of modern taps have extremely low flow rates. The ones I fitted in this video are high flow rate taps which work even on gravity open vented systems.
Hey Roger, did you know the C shaped washer is that shape so you can assemble it and then feed the whole lot through the hole from above the sink. It's so much easier. Also you can buy isolating valves with a flat face now.
👍
I have heard this but never done it. I keep meaning to try it
When I fit this type of tap I always loctite the stud, and glues the rubber to the horse shoe . Job done.
Good idea.I will do that
If you have a rothenberger rad ratchet you can put in the bottom of the monoblock
Hex keys and use it to tighten up the tap.
Good tip
Washing my hands with the E alter tap which drains into the sink drain
Let that sink in 😂