So once the swirl valve electronics have been oiled the electronics have to be bypassed? Or are you doing this simply to remove the likelihood of this happening again? In my case the seal was fine but the inlet pipe flange had cracked on the bottom, out of sight.
Hello, I have a question about my Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0crd 2007, I have the problem that when the engine runs from 100kmh, the red flash ⚡️ lights up continuously and haute has no power anymore. I still have a problem with the agas manifold, which is leaking and I get a message that the engine control light is on continuous. The error is that the charging pressure is too low. This can have something to do with the red flash. Would be happy for an answer. Thanks in advance.
read the obdii code with a code reader dongle (cheap). look up the code and it’s meanig.when you say charger pressure sounds like hp fuel pressure so try and measure voltage on hp fuel rail sensor and look up correct value. May also be lack of turbo output air pressure and resultant low inlet manifold pressure, which it already sounds like you have, so look for a leak like split turbo output hose.
Hello, thank you for your answer. But it's the case with me, one side of the exhaust manifold isn't completely sealed when I'm standing at the traffic light. You can tell smoke is coming out of the hood. And because of that, it's possible that the error boost pressure is too low The red flash also lights up when I give it more gas and then stays on until the engine is switched off. What tip can you give me, how long does it take to remove the exhaust manifold. Thanks in advance
Hello comeinhandy, good afternoon Help me in this situation please. I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit. I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before. could you give me some guidance? it makes me crazy
@@comeinhandynow worked. But now it seems I have an issue with the Turbo Actuator Code P0234 (Turbocharger/Supercharger A Overboost Condition). Any suggestions?
@@comeinhandynow no movement in the actuator arm when started or when pushing the accelerator up to 3000 rpm. I'm guessing it's dead in that case. Now to work out to how remove it 😭
Did mine today...used a resistor that was built in to a plug, unplugged from swirl flap motor...then plugged in the plug. Done. Instant solution.
Useful. Have you got a link for that plug part?
This worked for me, the resistor was 7 cents, put it in, no more error code P2015 and limp mode. Saved lots of bucks.
Great. well done.
but the car doesn't go, when you do that, the fault just goes away
Excellent vid, very informative!
Thanks
I shal be trying this tomorrow. Thanks for the video.
Hope it goes well, half the battle is over: just giving it a try!
Yes sir@@comeinhandynow
@@goodasnewrepairsand?
Can this problem produce white smoke?
A bad PCV also?
I need ypur help!!!
So once the swirl valve electronics have been oiled the electronics have to be bypassed? Or are you doing this simply to remove the likelihood of this happening again?
In my case the seal was fine but the inlet pipe flange had cracked on the bottom, out of sight.
As summarised in the video description as the swirl motor has malfunction, you disconnect it and fool the ecu that it is still there
Excuse any dumb questions. I'm learning this on the fly.
So the SVM electronics are fried? Not worth replacing? Or possibly too expensive?
Hello, I have a question about my Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0crd 2007, I have the problem that when the engine runs from 100kmh, the red flash ⚡️ lights up continuously and haute has no power anymore. I still have a problem with the agas manifold, which is leaking and I get a message that the engine control light is on continuous. The error is that the charging pressure is too low. This can have something to do with the red flash. Would be happy for an answer. Thanks in advance.
read the obdii code with a code reader dongle (cheap). look up the code and it’s meanig.when you say charger pressure sounds like hp fuel pressure so try and measure voltage on hp fuel rail sensor and look up correct value. May also be lack of turbo output air pressure and resultant low inlet manifold pressure, which it already sounds like you have, so look for a leak like split turbo output hose.
Hello, thank you for your answer. But it's the case with me, one side of the exhaust manifold isn't completely sealed when I'm standing at the traffic light. You can tell smoke is coming out of the hood. And because of that, it's possible that the error boost pressure is too low The red flash also lights up when I give it more gas and then stays on until the engine is switched off. What tip can you give me, how long does it take to remove the exhaust manifold. Thanks in advance
I did try with a 4.67
Resistor
It never came out of limpmode
Marked as 4.7k ohms (4700 ohm) I guess, if connected right it should work as in the video. Sorry no more tips.
My 2008 jeep has the 5.7 HEMI will it be the same process ? No turbo
I doubt it.
No
I have the hemi to. Gonna have a look today.
Didn't see you block off the socket from where the plug goes to, to stop any debris getting in ? 🤔
Not really needed as the swirl motor unit is malfunctioning and will not be used again.
@@comeinhandynow 👍
what error does obd2 showed?
Sorry I don’t have that information now.
Do you have any tips
Hello comeinhandy,
good afternoon
Help me in this situation please.
I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit.
I have already changed the sensor and filters and the obd always shows the same fault as before.
could you give me some guidance?
it makes me crazy
Should I be disconnecting the battery to do this?
Personally, I didn’t.
@@comeinhandynow thanks 👌🏻
@@comeinhandynow worked. But now it seems I have an issue with the Turbo Actuator Code P0234 (Turbocharger/Supercharger A Overboost Condition). Any suggestions?
@@apitherapycentre273 Check if the actuator is actually moving properly. I think it is mentioned and shown briefly in this video, from memory.
@@comeinhandynow no movement in the actuator arm when started or when pushing the accelerator up to 3000 rpm. I'm guessing it's dead in that case. Now to work out to how remove it 😭
what a crap job, these gaskets need to be new! it doesn't cost much.
It worked, move on
What a crap tip, it needs more than just gaskets.