What I like about this video, as well as your other ones is that you not only tell us " what to do," but " what NOT to do." We learn from your R&D instead of wasting time trying to get the best method. Like one person commented, I'll never install one of these, but love watching your process, and logic, in showing how it's done.
The first noticeable issue is the offset when you mount the Porter Cable mortising tool. A shim solves that offset. The plate depth info is a plus. On the hardware job you know you're the big dog when taking on the mortising job that everyone fears. These are the skills the Ingersoll Rand Door hardware certification prepared us for. Thanks for the much needed industry demonstration!
Great video Spencer. A final touch that I’ve done a time or two. After the painters leave, I go back and install a 5mm cabinet door bumper on the top and bottom of the door edge about 100mm from the corner. Drill a stopped 3 mm hole for the stem, and add a drop of ca glue. The ones I use stand about 1.5mm proud of the surface, can be used on a flat or mortised jamb, and keeps the doors from rattling closed, and quiet at night if your trying to sleep with windows open on breezy nights. It’s a nice touch that only takes about a minute per door.
Since your lock set height is a standard distance from the bottom of the door you could steam line your time by making the vertical side supports of the door buck go up to the point your Templaco routing jig sits at. This way when the hole is bored out in the side of the door by the first jig you simply stand the Templaco jig on top of the vertical side supports of the door buck. This saves you the time measuring and aligning on every single door going forward. A bit of careful set up one time with the door buck will shave time off each install with this system. I would also make the door buck have a longer support in the floor so it is not slightly angled. Thanks for the system, I’m going to be implementing this with our crew.
#1 safety recommendation regarding the Porter Cable 513 for everyone, ...USE A DEADMAN'S PEDDLE to power it. This tool turns at 27500 RPM, this way is for whatever reason something goes wrong, all you have to do is step off it and back safely and it is off as it winds down. The reason is the placement of the On/Off switch is in such a bad location, you'll never get to it in time. There's also a hanger kit available for this for multiple doors. Measure your mark, ...put 513 in place, ...place the multi-piece hanger rod in the corner mount on the 513 to where it sits at the top of the door (do not secure yet). On top is a circular disc, which needs to sit hard flush on the top of door. Once you have it set, now secure the rod in place on the 513. Now all you have to do is go to each door and just hang it and go vs marking every single door from either direction....big time saver. Cheers all and happy routing. 🤔😉
Great instructions! For setting the door thickness on the Templaco door jig, I was thinking you could use setup blocks. If you made a pair of wood blocks 1 3/8" x 1 3/4" x random length you could drop them in the appropriate sections of the gauged mortise and squeeze the side plates to the blocks as you set the mounting screws. That might be a quick way that reduces possible human error.
perfect timing to drop this from my perspective, about to do 4 of these bad boys this week for the first time. Made my own templates from an awesome video Matt Jackson did on the Next Level Carpentry channel. I don't have access to one of those mortisers so I made my own out of a Rockler Portable drill guide will take some extra time and then some fine tuning with the chisels.. Got some awesome take aways from this vid thanks Spencer!
im installing a Emtek pocket door handle tomorrow. i 3d printed router templates today, diddnt know they were available for sale. mine cost less than a dollar to produce, but while i was at it i made a template to rout the outside of the int / ext face plates to recess them flush into the door. its an extra step but i feel itll be worth it. i hadnt considered the deep mortise, im not going to buy that rig you had, very nice machine but until i get a house full of these i cant justify the purchase. so instead i think ill 3d print a template for recessing the strike plate into the edge of the door and use your method with the forstner bits to hog out the guts, no one is ever gonna see it anyway. great video as usual spencer. i learn something from you everytime!
I'd recommend learning to make templates yourself with CA glue. It is a very fast and cheap method of making templates if you don't want to spend the money. I would be hesitant trying to use 3D printed templates... make sure to do a test run with them before you use them on an actual door.
@@InsiderCarpentry well i did it. damn it man do i see the value in that mortising machine of yours. the 3d templates worked pretty good, the router's baseplate and guide are a 1 pc 3d print. im forcing it into my workflow lol. i typically run a test block 1x2 with a specific wall thickness and 1 or 2 holes relative to the project, then adjust a copy of the model. its definitely not faster than CA. matter of fact i got 2 bottles of CA on my total station. so its slow, but accurate, and it allowed me easily swap from inside detail to outside profile, recessing the handles into the door was a nice touch. i made a template for the lock carriage but i don't have a 3.5" router bit so i went as deep as i could with the bits i have and used that as a reference surface to drill and chisel. it took forever. ive been subscribed to your channel for a long time now, seriously love the quality of content and methodology you have. i came real close to buying a jamb master after seeing your video. keep it up man, these aren't just youtube videos, you're teaching others how to make a living and be prideful in your work.
I wonder what an appropriate price to charge for install. I installed one last year with the old-school method, was time consuming, turned out nice but I only charged $200. I'm not a fan of the Emtek knob to lock and unlock, it's very small and could be designed to be thicker for ease of use. Love your videos, so detailed and professional...!
@@sanesalvation Draw the lines on the door for proper positioning, I cut the sides first. A pilot hole then jigsaw. For the mortice, drill with a spade bit, maybe 1/2" deep at a time, do the whole mortise at 1/2" deep before going deeper, keep repeating until final depth, keeping the bit straight and square. After the bulk of the mortice is drilled out, use a sharp 3/4" chisel to smooth out the mortice. Score the outline of the plate with a utility knife, set the proper depth for a palm router and rout out. I do this by eye with full control going close to the scored line, then chisel by hand to get it perfect.
Love your work, one thing I would of done different is set that hardware to the centre to the mid rail. Personally think it would of looked better but each to there own
Another great video Spencer! Whenever I'm trying to find the center between two marks I just locate a whole number in between the marks and look for the same fraction on either side, less math.
Wow. Great job !!! Looks nice. I have to laugh because 30 years ago when I started carpentry. We did everything with a chisel and hand held auger and adjustable fostner style drill bit.
I've never installed one of those large lock mortises, but I've replaced all the pocket doors in my house...6 of them. I made the doors with the festool domino and also did most of the mortise work for the edge pulls with the domino.
i just did a ton of these into pocket doors a couple weeks ago . They were emtek and the builder wanted them flush with the face of the door, so i built a jig to mortise them in. the best part was the aluminum rebate that accepted the door. the strike had to be flush so i had to mortis into aluminum. im still picking aluminum flakes out of my clothes. Love your videos dude!
Well done, Spencer. Thank you. Absent the template you used for the strike plate, a router plane does a really nice job. I just did 3 of these locksets using that method.
Great content as always. Just want to say, everybody should wear eyes and ears all the time. Very precious investments to enjoy your job and family for the rest of your life.
Thanks Spencer for another very informative class. Pocket doors have always been a bit of witchcraft to me, but this vid made them a lot clearer. Well done!
I do like 2 of these a year by hand with spade bit and chisel. Always a pain. Super helpful video. Might get the template. The mortising setup is too much unfortunately.
Thanks Spencer. I'm in the process of rehabbing an entire house of incorrectly installed (by others!) Emtek pocket door hardware. The Emtek engineers gave us these template specs for a reason folks. Follow the specs or expect callbacks!
This video is great. I'm putting in one pocket door and don't know if I'll do another, so will likely not get the porter cable 1500 USD machine, but might invest in the template and the bits mentioned. If nothing else though, I see how it can be done. Spencer is a great instructor. Proud to know about this channel.
that :Porter Cable Door lock mortiser has been around forever! I used almost the same exact one 20 years ago working in the Hamptons, Long Island, NY. Kudos to you Brother! God Bless. shalom.
I had bad luck with the provided template on my first emtek pocket door hardware --I would recommend making your own... and if you do, size everything to the actual hardware itself, NOT the provided paper template. Awesome video, as always, Spencer!!
Another top notch video Spencer. Thanks as always for your insight. This hardware is finally making its way into Georgia. Though only in 3mil+ homes. I have seen some butchered installs. Too many “trim” or “finish carpenters” trying to do these tasks without the tools the job requires. I’m sure you have seen it 😂
I've often had to route a dado into the jamb that the door could recess into. This eliminates any gap at all. Makes people feel more private especially in bathrooms. Seems like the temple might not work in that case unless you go back to a guide bushing so you can increase the depth.
@MrSpzwd Do you not use door stop on your pocket doors? I use door stop to address the "peek-a-boo" issue on the latch side, and to maintain a consistent look with the swing doors.
@@jeffeverde1 I've done that too, but the dado looks cleaner and can also hide any slight variations in the gap between the door and jamb when looking from either side of the closed door.
The dado is a much cleaner look imo. I find most of the “modern” fitments fall into that “minimalist” appearance as well which leans more towards a dado verses a stop. 🤷♂️
Great video , excellent tip unplugging router after , almost loose my hand luckily i was holding router from the bar and not from the bit it was super scary we accidentally push the button, thank god , take care .
On the jam Where the door latches I usually add a lattice or thicker pieces as a door stop on both side mostly for privacy but really helps me covering light gaps between door and jam . If I use a thicker piece I bring my casing forward to desire reveal(3/16 or so) Great video like always !!
Best advise is avoid pocket doors if you can. Some places they work well like baths with closets where they are usually open. Labor intensive, as you see here. Also the frame install has to be level and plumb. Just weigh the extra cost versus benefit.
An additional advantage of using cordless routers with templates is that they stop almost instantly. (Several of my Templaco templates would have lasted longer, had I been using cordless back in the day...)
If I remember correctly that porter-cable mortiser had pads to not mar the doors which seem to be missing from yours leading to the slop...I think adding some felt pads will tighten you up.
Awesome instructional video. Spencer, you are a great teacher. Why is the Romex looped in the wall between the studs the way it is? Maybe some electrical contractors could chime in on this? Thanks!
Nice that the tile guy installs his own backer. Even better if he does mud walls. But it’s 2023. Most guys who float walls are retired or moved on. But I doubt the tile guy is going to install sound attenuation batts in those bays himself. No sound batts in bathrooms?
Three words of advice. TAKE YOUR TIME. I put some $550.00 brass Baldwin mortise sets in some hardwood museum grade doors about 30 some years ago, and it worked out well!
For the strike plate, have you tried putting 2 sided tape on the outside of the strike plate, 2 rare earth magnets on the latch side, lining them up and just closing the door? Seems like it would be a bit more foolproof and quicker than measuring.
Just discovered your channel and really like the video. Great explanation of steps taken,especially for people that don't do this stuff everyday. Thanks from New subscriber
Love doing this, it’s always funny the guys that talk most don’t want to do this exact procedure. Does that templaco template handle the oval shaped emtek hardware also? Meaning the actual pulls on the sides are oval shaped.
I installed 2 of those a few years ago. The doors were already and it was a pain to install without all the jigs and templates he has. Even with the templates and jigs, I don't think it's easy still. I don't want to do it again. One customer called today asking for a sliding door lock installed, my first question was " Is it a mortise case lock?" lol
Love your RUclips videos, you're a truly talented craftsman. I'm building a house in Mineral Bluff, GA. I chose the Emtek Deep Mortising Pocket Door Hardware but no one here has the equipment and / or knowledge to install. My contractor is at a loss. Any ideas for me? Thanks
@5:38 you could make your door buck vertical leg higher to set the mortise jig on to automatically be at the proper height every time without measuring… also @9:46 you could customize the Templaco Jig to match… I think it would be worth the effort & would not take much time
Have you ever tried to do this with pocket doors that are already installed? I have 7 of them installed that are going to be very difficult to remove and was wondering if you think I should do whatever it takes to remove them or make it work with them already installed? I have most of the tools/supplies from the video.
@@InsiderCarpentry There is a guy called Farid Kamal Pro on youtube, he has an amazing door template tool that works with plunge router on guide bushings. the problem is that its all in metric and wont work with our inch/foot system. I hope he makes one for american installs. His tool works alot like the tool in your video but much more manageble and has dust collection. Check it out when you have time
At about 20:35, you strike your corner chisel tool with another tool. It has a wooden handle and two claws opposite the striking face. I saw one of these once. What’s it called? lol.
Wouldn't it be easier to lay the door lengthwise when routing, where gravity is your friend and at a easier working height, instead of vertically where you're hunched over? I don't know if chip ejection would be an issue.
I have since started to position the hardware so that it is closer to center. Inititally I tried to match the rotating latch at the same height as other locksets on swinging doors, but I have changed that philosophy.
What I like about this video, as well as your other ones is that you not only tell us " what to do," but " what NOT to do." We learn from your R&D instead of wasting time trying to get the best method. Like one person commented, I'll never install one of these, but love watching your process, and logic, in showing how it's done.
I’ll never trim out a house but I love this channel. Spencer is so good at what he does.
He’s one of the best out there!
The first noticeable issue is the offset when you mount the Porter Cable mortising tool. A shim solves that offset.
The plate depth info is a plus.
On the hardware job you know you're the big dog when taking on the mortising job that everyone fears.
These are the skills the Ingersoll Rand Door hardware certification prepared us for.
Thanks for the much needed industry demonstration!
31:50- Safety Foul! No safety glasses. 🙂 A+ video!!!
Great video Spencer. A final touch that I’ve done a time or two. After the painters leave, I go back and install a 5mm cabinet door bumper on the top and bottom of the door edge about 100mm from the corner. Drill a stopped 3 mm hole for the stem, and add a drop of ca glue. The ones I use stand about 1.5mm proud of the surface, can be used on a flat or mortised jamb, and keeps the doors from rattling closed, and quiet at night if your trying to sleep with windows open on breezy nights. It’s a nice touch that only takes about a minute per door.
Since your lock set height is a standard distance from the bottom of the door you could steam line your time by making the vertical side supports of the door buck go up to the point your Templaco routing jig sits at. This way when the hole is bored out in the side of the door by the first jig you simply stand the Templaco jig on top of the vertical side supports of the door buck. This saves you the time measuring and aligning on every single door going forward. A bit of careful set up one time with the door buck will shave time off each install with this system. I would also make the door buck have a longer support in the floor so it is not slightly angled. Thanks for the system, I’m going to be implementing this with our crew.
#1 safety recommendation regarding the Porter Cable 513 for everyone, ...USE A DEADMAN'S PEDDLE to power it. This tool turns at 27500 RPM, this way is for whatever reason something goes wrong, all you have to do is step off it and back safely and it is off as it winds down. The reason is the placement of the On/Off switch is in such a bad location, you'll never get to it in time.
There's also a hanger kit available for this for multiple doors. Measure your mark, ...put 513 in place, ...place the multi-piece hanger rod in the corner mount on the 513 to where it sits at the top of the door (do not secure yet). On top is a circular disc, which needs to sit hard flush on the top of door. Once you have it set, now secure the rod in place on the 513. Now all you have to do is go to each door and just hang it and go vs marking every single door from either direction....big time saver. Cheers all and happy routing. 🤔😉
Your Very Good Craftsman .I Was Trim Carpenter For 40 Years
You are an excellent instructor! (Disproving the adage, "Those who can, do; those who can't, teach...)
Great instructions! For setting the door thickness on the Templaco door jig, I was thinking you could use setup blocks. If you made a pair of wood blocks 1 3/8" x 1 3/4" x random length you could drop them in the appropriate sections of the gauged mortise and squeeze the side plates to the blocks as you set the mounting screws. That might be a quick way that reduces possible human error.
There a lot of work going into those doors,always impressed by your knowledge best on the internet
Thank you, this was a perfect training tool for my team. You demonstrated the problem solving process throughout and go it done.
perfect timing to drop this from my perspective, about to do 4 of these bad boys this week for the first time. Made my own templates from an awesome video Matt Jackson did on the Next Level Carpentry channel. I don't have access to one of those mortisers so I made my own out of a Rockler Portable drill guide will take some extra time and then some fine tuning with the chisels.. Got some awesome take aways from this vid thanks Spencer!
im installing a Emtek pocket door handle tomorrow. i 3d printed router templates today, diddnt know they were available for sale. mine cost less than a dollar to produce, but while i was at it i made a template to rout the outside of the int / ext face plates to recess them flush into the door. its an extra step but i feel itll be worth it. i hadnt considered the deep mortise, im not going to buy that rig you had, very nice machine but until i get a house full of these i cant justify the purchase. so instead i think ill 3d print a template for recessing the strike plate into the edge of the door and use your method with the forstner bits to hog out the guts, no one is ever gonna see it anyway. great video as usual spencer. i learn something from you everytime!
I'd recommend learning to make templates yourself with CA glue. It is a very fast and cheap method of making templates if you don't want to spend the money. I would be hesitant trying to use 3D printed templates... make sure to do a test run with them before you use them on an actual door.
@@InsiderCarpentry well i did it. damn it man do i see the value in that mortising machine of yours. the 3d templates worked pretty good, the router's baseplate and guide are a 1 pc 3d print. im forcing it into my workflow lol. i typically run a test block 1x2 with a specific wall thickness and 1 or 2 holes relative to the project, then adjust a copy of the model. its definitely not faster than CA. matter of fact i got 2 bottles of CA on my total station. so its slow, but accurate, and it allowed me easily swap from inside detail to outside profile, recessing the handles into the door was a nice touch. i made a template for the lock carriage but i don't have a 3.5" router bit so i went as deep as i could with the bits i have and used that as a reference surface to drill and chisel. it took forever. ive been subscribed to your channel for a long time now, seriously love the quality of content and methodology you have. i came real close to buying a jamb master after seeing your video. keep it up man, these aren't just youtube videos, you're teaching others how to make a living and be prideful in your work.
I wonder what an appropriate price to charge for install. I installed one last year with the old-school method, was time consuming, turned out nice but I only charged $200.
I'm not a fan of the Emtek knob to lock and unlock, it's very small and could be designed to be thicker for ease of use.
Love your videos, so detailed and professional...!
What is the old school method? Doing 3 pocket doors with this hardware next week and I have none of the expensive tools
@@sanesalvation Draw the lines on the door for proper positioning, I cut the sides first. A pilot hole then jigsaw. For the mortice, drill with a spade bit, maybe 1/2" deep at a time, do the whole mortise at 1/2" deep before going deeper, keep repeating until final depth, keeping the bit straight and square. After the bulk of the mortice is drilled out, use a sharp 3/4" chisel to smooth out the mortice. Score the outline of the plate with a utility knife, set the proper depth for a palm router and rout out. I do this by eye with full control going close to the scored line, then chisel by hand to get it perfect.
@@Joeshmofoshoyoold school, I just did 3 the same way you described. Builder was very happy.
How much should we charge per door??
What ever you charge, it's not enough @DaveEPie
Not a job for amateurs. Nicely done!
I’ve never done it before and I have some $600 pocket door hardware I’m going to give it a try with this summer. :)
@@nathanmruddany updates? How did it go?
I like it. Spared no expense on the pouch too. I personally like the vest.
Love your work, one thing I would of done different is set that hardware to the centre to the mid rail. Personally think it would of looked better but each to there own
I have definitely considered it.
Very well done. Do this on a 1500 room hotel and you get really good at it. You also cut some corners just to get done.
Omg awesome job! That's quite a professional installation
Another great video Spencer! Whenever I'm trying to find the center between two marks I just locate a whole number in between the marks and look for the same fraction on either side, less math.
Agree, that's how I've done it for years.
I need to get this embedded in my neural pathways.... I don't know why I use math...
Wow. Great job !!! Looks nice. I have to laugh because 30 years ago when I started carpentry. We did everything with a chisel and hand held auger and adjustable fostner style drill bit.
I've never installed one of those large lock mortises, but I've replaced all the pocket doors in my house...6 of them. I made the doors with the festool domino and also did most of the mortise work for the edge pulls with the domino.
i just did a ton of these into pocket doors a couple weeks ago . They were emtek and the builder wanted them flush with the face of the door, so i built a jig to mortise them in. the best part was the aluminum rebate that accepted the door. the strike had to be flush so i had to mortis into aluminum. im still picking aluminum flakes out of my clothes. Love your videos dude!
How much did you charge per door?
Well done, Spencer. Thank you. Absent the template you used for the strike plate, a router plane does a really nice job. I just did 3 of these locksets using that method.
Great content as always. Just want to say, everybody should wear eyes and ears all the time. Very precious investments to enjoy your job and family for the rest of your life.
Thanks Spencer for another very informative class. Pocket doors have always been a bit of witchcraft to me, but this vid made them a lot clearer. Well done!
I do like 2 of these a year by hand with spade bit and chisel. Always a pain. Super helpful video. Might get the template. The mortising setup is too much unfortunately.
Thanks Spencer. I'm in the process of rehabbing an entire house of incorrectly installed (by others!) Emtek pocket door hardware.
The Emtek engineers gave us these template specs for a reason folks. Follow the specs or expect callbacks!
This video is great. I'm putting in one pocket door and don't know if I'll do another, so will likely not get the porter cable 1500 USD machine, but might invest in the template and the bits mentioned. If nothing else though, I see how it can be done. Spencer is a great instructor. Proud to know about this channel.
that :Porter Cable Door lock mortiser has been around forever! I used almost the same exact one 20 years ago working in the Hamptons, Long Island, NY. Kudos to you Brother! God Bless. shalom.
Epic tutorial!! We have 3 to do tomorrow and now less scared lol
I really hate that Porter Cable has been bought out and marginalized. They used to make the very best power tools for pro carpenters and other trades.
And Hitachi is now metabo crap
your videos are very useful and in depth. Can you do a video explaining hot to properly price for all different trim work as per unit cost?
I had bad luck with the provided template on my first emtek pocket door hardware --I would recommend making your own... and if you do, size everything to the actual hardware itself, NOT the provided paper template. Awesome video, as always, Spencer!!
Guys good , real good
I used to use my Festool XL 700 to mortis those deep locks.
Another top notch video Spencer. Thanks as always for your insight.
This hardware is finally making its way into Georgia. Though only in 3mil+ homes. I have seen some butchered installs. Too many “trim” or “finish carpenters” trying to do these tasks without the tools the job requires. I’m sure you have seen it 😂
You are thorough.
Thank you Spencer for another outstanding instructional video.
I've often had to route a dado into the jamb that the door could recess into. This eliminates any gap at all. Makes people feel more private especially in bathrooms. Seems like the temple might not work in that case unless you go back to a guide bushing so you can increase the depth.
@MrSpzwd Do you not use door stop on your pocket doors? I use door stop to address the "peek-a-boo" issue on the latch side, and to maintain a consistent look with the swing doors.
@@jeffeverde1 I've done that too, but the dado looks cleaner and can also hide any slight variations in the gap between the door and jamb when looking from either side of the closed door.
The dado is a much cleaner look imo. I find most of the “modern” fitments fall into that “minimalist” appearance as well which leans more towards a dado verses a stop. 🤷♂️
Never seen a corner chisel tool before. Didn’t know I wanted that.
Very nicely done as usual Spencer.
Great video , excellent tip unplugging router after , almost loose my hand luckily i was holding router from the bar and not from the bit it was super scary we accidentally push the button, thank god , take care .
On the jam Where the door latches I usually add a lattice or thicker pieces as a door stop on both side mostly for privacy but really helps me covering light gaps between door and jam . If I use a thicker piece I bring my casing forward to desire reveal(3/16 or so)
Great video like always !!
Best advise is avoid pocket doors if you can. Some places they work well like baths with closets where they are usually open.
Labor intensive, as you see here. Also the frame install has to be level and plumb. Just weigh the extra cost versus benefit.
I usually use my Festool 1400 with dust extractor for all mortises and you can change depth it’s faster and better.
It's always satisfying to me doing mortises with a router.
An additional advantage of using cordless routers with templates is that they stop almost instantly. (Several of my Templaco templates would have lasted longer, had I been using cordless back in the day...)
You can also order the doors from a door supplier already prepped for the hardware.
Mate you’ve gotta get your hands on the Tidy Tradie Jig. It’ll do all of this, with dust extraction 🤘
If I remember correctly that porter-cable mortiser had pads to not mar the doors which seem to be missing from yours leading to the slop...I think adding some felt pads will tighten you up.
Inox makes the best pocket door hardware.
Great video I ordered two tools
I’ve always had this done at the factory
It is a very helpful and informative channel.I really appreciate the way you explain everything.
Maybe your best video but at the end that's all there is to it man I'm glad I was never asked to do this it would have been a hack job
Awesome instructional video. Spencer, you are a great teacher. Why is the Romex looped in the wall between the studs the way it is? Maybe some electrical contractors could chime in on this? Thanks!
It allows the outlets to be moved,without pulling an entire new circuit
Nice that the tile guy installs his own backer. Even better if he does mud walls. But it’s 2023. Most guys who float walls are retired or moved on. But I doubt the tile guy is going to install sound attenuation batts in those bays himself. No sound batts in bathrooms?
Three words of advice. TAKE YOUR TIME. I put some $550.00 brass Baldwin mortise sets in some hardwood museum grade doors about 30 some years ago, and it worked out well!
Another great video Spencer. Keep them coming. 👍👍
Great video as always. Informative and helpful. Definitely worth the investment if you’re doing a lot of these.
As always a job VERY WELL DONE!
Good job!
But try to use a doble tape for looked the place of the little plate and you may safe time
It works for me 👍
Saludos 🖖🏼
For the strike plate, have you tried putting 2 sided tape on the outside of the strike plate, 2 rare earth magnets on the latch side, lining them up and just closing the door? Seems like it would be a bit more foolproof and quicker than measuring.
Have you tried the Souber mortising tool. Fantastic and east to use. Cheaper as well.
I've seen it but never tried it.
Great video !!!!! Thank You 😊😊😊😊😊😇😇😇😇😇
👍very precise
Great video Lewis. Thanks!
1" spade bit and SHARP 11/2 chisel is the deal.
Thanks!
Just discovered your channel and really like the video. Great explanation of steps taken,especially for people that don't do this stuff everyday. Thanks from New subscriber
Cool stuff great video as always
Love doing this, it’s always funny the guys that talk most don’t want to do this exact procedure.
Does that templaco template handle the oval shaped emtek hardware also? Meaning the actual pulls on the sides are oval shaped.
Yes, it comes with inserts for 3 different style including the oval. I'll be installing oval on the next job.
I installed 2 of those a few years ago. The doors were already and it was a pain to install without all the jigs and templates he has. Even with the templates and jigs, I don't think it's easy still. I don't want to do it again. One customer called today asking for a sliding door lock installed, my first question was " Is it a mortise case lock?" lol
Love your RUclips videos, you're a truly talented craftsman. I'm building a house in Mineral Bluff, GA. I chose the Emtek Deep Mortising Pocket Door Hardware but no one here has the equipment and / or knowledge to install. My contractor is at a loss. Any ideas for me? Thanks
Great work!
@5:38 you could make your door buck vertical leg higher to set the mortise jig on to automatically be at the proper height every time without measuring… also @9:46 you could customize the Templaco Jig to match…
I think it would be worth the effort & would not take much time
I thought of that same idea. You beat me to it.
Have you ever tried to do this with pocket doors that are already installed? I have 7 of them installed that are going to be very difficult to remove and was wondering if you think I should do whatever it takes to remove them or make it work with them already installed? I have most of the tools/supplies from the video.
Yes, you can do it with the doors installed, it just makes a mess.
Never seen that Dewalt router with the d-handle before 🤔 looks like it ergonomically works better than the stubby handles on the basic router
Another great video
Excellent Thank you
For work like this I’d use a forstner bit instead of a spade bit.
Great stuff
Aside from dust extraction is there any reason not to lay the door horizontally, so that the machine rests on top of it?
Very informative, ty
Nice job! I wonder how much it is to install one of these doors from start to finish. Alot of tools used just for a lock haha
It definitely adds to the cost. It's nice when there are several.
@@InsiderCarpentry There is a guy called Farid Kamal Pro on youtube, he has an amazing door template tool that works with plunge router on guide bushings. the problem is that its all in metric and wont work with our inch/foot system. I hope he makes one for american installs. His tool works alot like the tool in your video but much more manageble and has dust collection. Check it out when you have time
Next level!
great video
I’m mortised a double pocket door with this kind of hardware and the homeowner was looking over my shoulder the whole time….. ugh.
At about 20:35, you strike your corner chisel tool with another tool. It has a wooden handle and two claws opposite the striking face. I saw one of these once. What’s it called? lol.
I do a lot of trim work! Especially speciality cabinets! That’s a boat load for me on top of a normal house trim! Now this? I need therapy?
The latch just hooks onto the wood jam or is there a rod that can be inserted?
Wouldn't it be easier to lay the door lengthwise when routing, where gravity is your friend and at a easier working height, instead of vertically where you're hunched over? I don't know if chip ejection would be an issue.
I think chip ejection would be an issue but I could be wrong.
The p-c machine can only be used in the vertical position
Every screw has some slop in it. In a dusty environment you need that slop or it would pack tight and stop your production.
Is there a reason why you don't centre the lock to the middle rail rather than offset it slightly ?
I have since started to position the hardware so that it is closer to center. Inititally I tried to match the rotating latch at the same height as other locksets on swinging doors, but I have changed that philosophy.
Got a question how much to do you charge for the mortise and install hardware?
What is the setup on Router #2? 5/8 template guide with 1/2" router bit? 16:13
Yes
I commend you for taking the job with 9 pocket doors?!?!
An upcoming house has 15...
Whoa!! What’s that bit holder around your m12 drill?
I need that
Here you go... www.ludwigcabinets.com/store/p10/MW-MB4.html
@@InsiderCarpentry thanks. I hate that I didn’t know that existed til just now
@@shinnick22 didn't even notice that, that is cool
Spencer where do you work out of please come install my door hardware
how much cost to install lock mortiser on regular door?