That's awesome. A nice little trick iv found with drilling the hole after the housing is routered out is to join a line from each corner to create a cross which always gets you bang centre of the housing. Great work mate 👍
great video. If you cut a spare piece of your 26mm strip to the size of the latch plate and drill a 4mm hole in the centre, once you've used the router, drop the strip piece into the jig and this will give you the exact centre for the tubular barrel pilot hole in seconds.
I always say I will make one of these jigs but never do for some reason. No time like the present I guess to do it. Using the jig still clamped then running over the corners with a chisle is a great tip!
Thanks to your videos i was able to successfully replace 9 doors in my home by creating the Hinge jig and the latch jig along with a handle jig. The bathroom locks i have installed seem a little stiff but i am still finessing them. Think i basically don't have them lined up completely plum. I had fun doing it the doors. It may have taken me a long time but I now have greater knowledge. 🙂
HI Anthony, thats really good to hear! If the door latches but the lock is stiff then its more than likely a height position isue(if a combined lock and latch) pleased to have helped and thankyou for getting back in touch!
Super simple little jig there, and produced a great result🤩You could always cut another small bit of ply the same size as the faceplate, drill a small pilot hole in the centre of it, put a screw in it so it just sticks out enough to mark the timber in your faceplate housing, and use it as a drop in insert for marking where the latch body is to be drilled👊(you can then use the screw head to pull it back out)
@@BradshawJoinery You can't think of everything once tge camera starts rolling, and that's what I love so much about the comments sections, (apart from the occasional know it all that tell you what an idiot you are and how you're doing it all wrong😖), as there is some pretty switched on guys watching who can come up with some great suggestions👍
use this exact technique loads of times, really handy glad to see it shared, most recently for routing out a bank of four sockets in the back of an 18mm cabinet backpanel.
So simple, yet so effective. Made used and had excellent results. I made the fence slightly longer to mark two pilot holes for the handle spindles (long and short barrels). Works a treat. Far better than paying £££ for a trend jig... Thank you.
Bloomin brilliant Richard. thanks for that. Although my affiliate sponsor Trend might be a little miffed, but hopefully youll considder their cutter to use with it.
Nice one Carl! Not sure about the best, but i do think there is a lack of proper joinery and skilled info available for people who didnt do an apprenticeship!
@@BradshawJoinery 100 percent, i don’t understand how anyone can have negative comments about making a jig this way. I’ve made plenty of jigs in my 20 years of carpentry and as soon as i saw this video i thought “ why didn’t i think of that? its such a simple effective way of making them!”
Bit of a palaver - not hard to rout by eye after scoring round the plate with a Stanley knife - then very easy to finish with a sharp chisel. I did seven in about an hour. Perfectly.
It is and it isn't. I make these all the while now and you could probably make the jig and rout 20.im an hour, more accurately, and risk free than by eye/ hand work and marking out. 👍 I've just done a comparison between hand chiselling and making a jig, to chop in hinges on a door and it's eye opening!
When you make the jig use a fifth piece and stick it loose in the hole. Mark it up for centre and either drill a pilot hole or core out as you will for the latch mechanism. That way you have a piece you can take in and out. Router out for the face, stick the piece in and use it as a guide for the drilling. Also if you take out the full size then it should be enough thickness to also set up you up for drilling straight.
When I supply hardware for customers I only supply latches with 25mm rounded face plates. I’ll mark the door and use a 25mm straight cutter. There’s no squaring up corners or anything, no making jigs. It’s so much easier.
Nicely done, I'm trying to make one that will do the latch and the receiver - clamp it to the door and router the latch then clamp it into the door frame rebate, if i use the leading edge of the door and the closing edge of the rebate it should be a quick & simple perfect fit every time....
I wish I’d seen this about two weeks ago Iv just fitted 15 solid oak doors in my home Would of been easier this way But all my doors fit perfectly so I’m happy 😊
I’ve had similar jigs for a while but when making them, I’ve added an additional 2mm either side for the cutter. I too have the longer support with guide hole for spindle location. The only down point is when customers buy the latch’s themselves which often means making a new jig😂
Another great Vid Ollie - I bought one of those BMI tapes a few years ago after watching some Aussi chap rating them, them moved onto the little hultafors, which are fiddly, then onto the Tajima class 1s.. which are such a lovely little tape. Off to find the BMI again having reminded me of it :D
AHH tape brothers, I have the tajima class 2 that Wurth sell but will get the white tape class one next time! Perfect I. 3m! I'm really loving the BMI! If you use my link I earn £0.68 per tape measure! 🤣🤣👍
@@BradshawJoinery it certainly will. I am one of 3 guys who does Plumbing and all other maintenance work on an Estate of about 850 units. Part of my work is to install main doors and bedroom doors. I have been doing it the old school way forever 😁. Can't wait to look like the bright spark amongst the team😃
Neat and tidy 👍 , next time you have to make up curved mouldings on the spindle moulder could you film how you support smaller cross selections and still get a good finish - I’m struggling !
@@BradshawJoinery curved sections of moulding - It’s like a bolection style moulding it’s holding panels in a door ( this time) . Generally I struggle when it comes to working with small curved sections on the moulder , if it’s something that comes up- might be a suitable topic for video. I’m sure you have plenty of other joiner/carpenters watching your videos as they are great for the details that make us better at our jobs and I’m guessing it’s something that other guys might benefit seeing too. Your moulder videos are great- can’t find anything like them on the internet and haven’t a clue where to start looking for information on how to do some of the more complex stuff. Thanks
@@CreativeCarpentry Hi David, that's quite a complex subject to cover in a few words, might I suggest that you get a copy of "the spindle moulder handbook" by Eric Stephenson. I used this extensively when I did my Craft and Advanced craft City & Guilds Wood Machining courses, many years ago.
Rip a piece down the width of the ends, then a piece longer than the plate... Glue the end pieces to the long one using the latch as length guide then glue 2 further pieces on around the front of the latch plate. Them last 2 pieces will need the corners chisselingoff to accommodate the round on the latch. Basically principle is just glue timber around the latch you are chopping in. 👍
Very well done! Always good to make a jig to help out with these tasks. Idea for another a future video is a hinge jig that can be used on the door frame which already has the stops fixed and architrave fitted?
I do like the look of that, I fit a lot of oak veneer doors so always looking for a way to speed things up. My process currently is drill the 25mm hole, then the spindle hole, pop the latch in, pilot hole the screws and screw latch in, then mark around with Stanley, take latch out and chop in, usually takes me 7mins for latch, keep and set of handles start to finish. I do like the look of the jig but just makes me carry the router, jig and clamps from door to door, so probably give this one a miss. Unless I’m ever on day rate lol
If i were you, id look at making a set of jigs that suit the hinges you use, the latch and keep. Alter the faceplate thickness of the different jigs so you can your them all with one setting on the router(ie thinner faceplate on the hinges than the latch keep as i assume they have a deeper recess.) You'd be worthwhile carrying the router then and unbeatable in speed. The keep would be the pre defined offset from the latch to have the door sitting exactly in the right place...Same process for making a jig for the keep just have one side of it open to rout the front side.
I didn't understand how you made the aperture the same size as the door latch. Is it necessary to allow extra width to accommodate the router guide bush ?
Thanks for posting your very interesting video. I am thinking of getting a router, what are the different uses between a palm or plunge router, is there any need to buy the both?
Very neat. Just made your hinge jig. 14 doors to hang! This is the next jig I will be doing. Thanks for the nice clear instructions. Any advice about lining up new doors to old frames that already have hinges cut in? Cheers Jim
Push the door in and plane so the margin is neat all the way round. Check new hinges are same or bigger than old hinges if not splice a piece of timber in alot bigger than the hinge housing(so your it left with a very short piece of grain to cut hinge into) Then wedge updoor with packer at top as margin and mark hinge positions. Cut into door then reposition door and mark hinge position on frame.
It's a real Cheapo one I used for sacrifice on repair work initially but turned out to be great little cutters. I bought about 50 from alibaba I think, but eBay/Amazon sell similar. I linked a couple.in description or search 10mm top bearing 1/4" router cutter
What none of these latch jig videos on youtube make really clear is that you HAVE TO use the appropriate bit as has been helpfully linked to in the description but not explicitly pointed out in the video, otherwise you will just eat into the jig.
Nice jig seeing this I think I'm going to make the fence bigger and drill a hole for the handle spindle.
Haha that'll work a treat! Great idea if you do a lot of the same latches!
That really is a great idea Thanks
Do you sell these?
That's awesome. A nice little trick iv found with drilling the hole after the housing is routered out is to join a line from each corner to create a cross which always gets you bang centre of the housing. Great work mate 👍
Cheers Liam, that's a good shout. I'll pin your comment later 👍👍
great video. If you cut a spare piece of your 26mm strip to the size of the latch plate and drill a 4mm hole in the centre, once you've used the router, drop the strip piece into the jig and this will give you the exact centre for the tubular barrel pilot hole in seconds.
Thanks. Awesome video. Saved me a lot time. Worked great. Doors hung, hinges in. All good. Thanks!
Legend, really pleased to hear that 🥰 thanks for the monies!
Going to be making one of these for my next 6 doors. Dead simple and a it will save me hours. Many thanks, 🙂
I always say I will make one of these jigs but never do for some reason. No time like the present I guess to do it.
Using the jig still clamped then running over the corners with a chisle is a great tip!
There is always so much to do it's choosing what to spend your time on isn't it! If it's any help it's only takes 5 mins!
you clever carpenter. I already done 3 jigs from your videos.thanks
Thanks to your videos i was able to successfully replace 9 doors in my home by creating the Hinge jig and the latch jig along with a handle jig. The bathroom locks i have installed seem a little stiff but i am still finessing them. Think i basically don't have them lined up completely plum. I had fun doing it the doors. It may have taken me a long time but I now have greater knowledge. 🙂
HI Anthony, thats really good to hear! If the door latches but the lock is stiff then its more than likely a height position isue(if a combined lock and latch)
pleased to have helped and thankyou for getting back in touch!
Super simple little jig there, and produced a great result🤩You could always cut another small bit of ply the same size as the faceplate, drill a small pilot hole in the centre of it, put a screw in it so it just sticks out enough to mark the timber in your faceplate housing, and use it as a drop in insert for marking where the latch body is to be drilled👊(you can then use the screw head to pull it back out)
Cheers mate, Yeah good shout, Someone else commented saying draw a quick cross from corner to corner to get centre which is so simple its hilarious.
@@BradshawJoinery You can't think of everything once tge camera starts rolling, and that's what I love so much about the comments sections, (apart from the occasional know it all that tell you what an idiot you are and how you're doing it all wrong😖), as there is some pretty switched on guys watching who can come up with some great suggestions👍
What a great way of making jigs , the simple ideas are always the best 👍
Yeah its mega! Cant beat it!
use this exact technique loads of times, really handy glad to see it shared, most recently for routing out a bank of four sockets in the back of an 18mm cabinet backpanel.
yeah no jig is a problem to make once you have this technique and a rip saw! Love it
Great video, always overthink making jigs this is perfect.
Going to fire one together next time I’ve got a house full of doors to do. Thank you
THankyou, it really is so easy to make these
So simple, yet so effective. Made used and had excellent results. I made the fence slightly longer to mark two pilot holes for the handle spindles (long and short barrels). Works a treat. Far better than paying £££ for a trend jig... Thank you.
Bloomin brilliant Richard. thanks for that. Although my affiliate sponsor Trend might be a little miffed, but hopefully youll considder their cutter to use with it.
Your one of the best on here just love how you make things look so easy…. Yet again thank you 🙏 👍👍👍👍 I’ll be on that tomorrow 👍
Nice one Carl! Not sure about the best, but i do think there is a lack of proper joinery and skilled info available for people who didnt do an apprenticeship!
That is much better than all the fancy jigs brilliant 👍🏿 thank you for sharing
Cheers mate, yep and the principle is useful for any item you wish to router in
I’ll be pinching that idea, thanks for sharing Ollie
No worries what so ever! Great for making any square jig nomatter the size, internal square is a pain to cut out!
Thats the best way I’ve seen to make jigs. Wish i’d seen this 20 years ago 😂
I think it's so simple and adaptable, I don't understand the negative comments haha, their loss I guess 😂
@@BradshawJoinery 100 percent, i don’t understand how anyone can have negative comments about making a jig this way. I’ve made plenty of jigs in my 20 years of carpentry and as soon as i saw this video i thought “ why didn’t i think of that? its such a simple effective way of making them!”
Excellent technique!
Thankyou
Bit of a palaver - not hard to rout by eye after scoring round the plate with a Stanley knife - then very easy to finish with a sharp chisel. I did seven in about an hour. Perfectly.
It is and it isn't. I make these all the while now and you could probably make the jig and rout 20.im an hour, more accurately, and risk free than by eye/ hand work and marking out. 👍
I've just done a comparison between hand chiselling and making a jig, to chop in hinges on a door and it's eye opening!
A nice simple jig that works. Thanks so much for sharing
No worries stevo, cheers for the comment
When you make the jig use a fifth piece and stick it loose in the hole. Mark it up for centre and either drill a pilot hole or core out as you will for the latch mechanism. That way you have a piece you can take in and out. Router out for the face, stick the piece in and use it as a guide for the drilling. Also if you take out the full size then it should be enough thickness to also set up you up for drilling straight.
Well done brother, I really liked it 👍
Nice little jig, I will certainly be making one of them. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Barry! Enjoy
Dinking around get the Porter Cable multi latch template.
Hi great video just wondering what you spray on before applying glue ?
It's an activator that rapidly sets super glue. Part of a mitre bond kit
@@BradshawJoinery thanks
When I supply hardware for customers I only supply latches with 25mm rounded face plates. I’ll mark the door and use a 25mm straight cutter. There’s no squaring up corners or anything, no making jigs. It’s so much easier.
Nice mate,can you show us how to hang that door you just installed latch into on the next video. Thanks
😂👍
Nicely done, I'm trying to make one that will do the latch and the receiver - clamp it to the door and router the latch then clamp it into the door frame rebate, if i use the leading edge of the door and the closing edge of the rebate it should be a quick & simple perfect fit every time....
Yeah you can make one with a gap in the front for the keep 👍 set the offset up once and you'll be good for all
Fantastically simple
Cheers, Yes it works great
I wish I’d seen this about two weeks ago
Iv just fitted 15 solid oak doors in my home
Would of been easier this way
But all my doors fit perfectly so I’m happy 😊
Haha! Always the case isnt it! Atleast you did them the traditional and proper way!
I’ve had similar jigs for a while but when making them, I’ve added an additional 2mm either side for the cutter. I too have the longer support with guide hole for spindle location.
The only down point is when customers buy the latch’s themselves which often means making a new jig😂
Nice one Paul, its a cracking little method for making the jigs
Another great Vid Ollie - I bought one of those BMI tapes a few years ago after watching some Aussi chap rating them, them moved onto the little hultafors, which are fiddly, then onto the Tajima class 1s.. which are such a lovely little tape. Off to find the BMI again having reminded me of it :D
AHH tape brothers, I have the tajima class 2 that Wurth sell but will get the white tape class one next time! Perfect I. 3m!
I'm really loving the BMI!
If you use my link I earn £0.68 per tape measure! 🤣🤣👍
Awesome. Do you have a jig for the striker?
Yes but not filmed that one. Just cut to the dimensions and glue it around it
Nice 👍🏼 job!
thankyou! :)
Thanks for the advice. I will let you know how they go!
Nice one. I will do a video on the process one day
This is really a brilliant idea. I will definitely try it in the future
Nice one Neville hopefully it helps you out!
@@BradshawJoinery it certainly will. I am one of 3 guys who does Plumbing and all other maintenance work on an Estate of about 850 units. Part of my work is to install main doors and bedroom doors. I have been doing it the old school way forever 😁. Can't wait to look like the bright spark amongst the team😃
excellent video. thanks for sharing
THankyou
Excellent content.... Jig making tutorials are very useful - Thanks
Thankyou John!
Nice one brother, thank you.
Neat and tidy 👍 , next time you have to make up curved mouldings on the spindle moulder could you film how you support smaller cross selections and still get a good finish - I’m struggling !
Hi David, you mean a profile moulding or an actual curved section of moulding?
@@BradshawJoinery curved sections of moulding - It’s like a bolection style moulding it’s holding panels in a door ( this time) . Generally I struggle when it comes to working with small curved sections on the moulder , if it’s something that comes up- might be a suitable topic for video. I’m sure you have plenty of other joiner/carpenters watching your videos as they are great for the details that make us better at our jobs and I’m guessing it’s something that other guys might benefit seeing too. Your moulder videos are great- can’t find anything like them on the internet and haven’t a clue where to start looking for information on how to do some of the more complex stuff. Thanks
@@CreativeCarpentry Hi David, that's quite a complex subject to cover in a few words, might I suggest that you get a copy of "the spindle moulder handbook" by Eric Stephenson. I used this extensively when I did my Craft and Advanced craft City & Guilds Wood Machining courses, many years ago.
Any recommendations on how a jig for the jamb side of dead bolt?
Rip a piece down the width of the ends, then a piece longer than the plate... Glue the end pieces to the long one using the latch as length guide then glue 2 further pieces on around the front of the latch plate. Them last 2 pieces will need the corners chisselingoff to accommodate the round on the latch. Basically principle is just glue timber around the latch you are chopping in. 👍
Like the man said… beautiful!
Thankyou David
Do you have a jig design for strike plates, per chance? 🙏
Great videos, thank you!
Just do the same thing, cut and mitre bits of same thickness material.around the plate 👍👍
Very well done! Always good to make a jig to help out with these tasks. Idea for another a future video is a hinge jig that can be used on the door frame which already has the stops fixed and architrave fitted?
Tha ms Jon, You can use this one, just cut the jig down front height wise until it misses the arc and rebate the top part over the stop
Nice... thank you. Always love a jig to help get the job done nice and neat. Thank you for the informative video's always appreciated.
I do like the look of that, I fit a lot of oak veneer doors so always looking for a way to speed things up. My process currently is drill the 25mm hole, then the spindle hole, pop the latch in, pilot hole the screws and screw latch in, then mark around with Stanley, take latch out and chop in, usually takes me 7mins for latch, keep and set of handles start to finish. I do like the look of the jig but just makes me carry the router, jig and clamps from door to door, so probably give this one a miss. Unless I’m ever on day rate lol
Jig tech latches. 5mins. 👍🏻
@@simonreekie1873 agree jig tech is great but they cost me £10 more per door and it only saves me two minutes per door so rather make the extra money.
If i were you, id look at making a set of jigs that suit the hinges you use, the latch and keep. Alter the faceplate thickness of the different jigs so you can your them all with one setting on the router(ie thinner faceplate on the hinges than the latch keep as i assume they have a deeper recess.) You'd be worthwhile carrying the router then and unbeatable in speed. The keep would be the pre defined offset from the latch to have the door sitting exactly in the right place...Same process for making a jig for the keep just have one side of it open to rout the front side.
I didn't understand how you made the aperture the same size as the door latch. Is it necessary to allow extra width to accommodate the router guide bush ?
No, the profiling router cutter is flush with the top guide bearing on the cutter
Nice, i bet you could increase the size for mortice lock
Yeah use this method for literally any shape you want to router... Even curves, just keep glueing bits together 👌
Fantastic tip mate , gonna make one myself , many thanks 👍
Thanks Lee Hope it helps you oooot
Thanks for that. Great little video.
Cheers Bob
What's the table saw your using???
You make it look so simple and I’m sure I would get some part wrong.
It's not like your wasting valuable materials! I'm sure you'd be fine
Can you tell me what router bit you use please
amzn.to/3kJbStP Is the premium one
amzn.to/3JdhLYv Budget set
Awesome job
Thankyou!!
Thanks for posting your very interesting video.
I am thinking of getting a router, what are the different uses between a palm or plunge router, is there any need to buy the both?
I would get one that does both, I really reccomend the DeWalt cordless that does both palm and plunge routing. IMO it's the perfect router
Use thinner stock or slot bottom timber out (door side )for router shaving to fall out of template !!!
Very neat. Just made your hinge jig. 14 doors to hang! This is the next jig I will be doing. Thanks for the nice clear instructions. Any advice about lining up new doors to old frames that already have hinges cut in? Cheers Jim
Push the door in and plane so the margin is neat all the way round. Check new hinges are same or bigger than old hinges if not splice a piece of timber in alot bigger than the hinge housing(so your it left with a very short piece of grain to cut hinge into) Then wedge updoor with packer at top as margin and mark hinge positions. Cut into door then reposition door and mark hinge position on frame.
Thanks for the info. I will let you know how it goes!
Would the router not start cutting into your jig when your moving it around?
NO it has a top bearing flush with the cutter
Hi, what happens when you come to chop the keep in the frame side, do you have a jig for this? Thanks
Yes, made in the same manner, rip a section down the width of the plate and glue them together around the keep.
@@BradshawJoinery thanks 👍
Very helpful - thank you.
Cheers Norman :)
¡Ándale, tú sí sabes campeón! Gracias 😎
Hi,can you make a router jig for a rounded lock plate?
Yes👍
Beautiful!
I’m friging jiging 🎯
Haha thanks Clive
Is that with no "G"
thanks
No no, thankyou
Watching this video and we have the same table saw, mitre saw and vac, lol.
Al great choices there Freddie!! :D😀
Blimey that was quick
Haha Cheers Matt, its a great way of making jigs
Would 12mm ply be better
Not for that cutter, you need the thicker piece for the bearing to reference on and do a shallow cut.
nice video
Thankyou Randy!
What make of bit was that you used?.
It's a real Cheapo one I used for sacrifice on repair work initially but turned out to be great little cutters. I bought about 50 from alibaba I think, but eBay/Amazon sell similar. I linked a couple.in description or search 10mm top bearing 1/4" router cutter
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks, should have been a bit clearer I meant the anger bit. Helpful video.
very clever..skilled man
Great stuff however £30 for the tape!? I will struggle on with my £9 versions!
Bob
England
the BMI meter is normally around £11 ad is bloody handy for setting out in the workshop to be fair!! see if you can shop around a bit ;) Thanks Bob,
Yes there is a worse bit of wood the new B&Q internal doors all sides made of MDF.
Lol yeah perfect for routering! I try to avoid cheap doors it kinda goes against my way of earnign a living haha
@@BradshawJoinery Yes I quite agree, sadly you turn up at a clients house and that’s all they can afford. Loving the videos keep up the good work.
I like it a lot
Cheers Lee. handy method for making jigs that
What none of these latch jig videos on youtube make really clear is that you HAVE TO use the appropriate bit as has been helpfully linked to in the description but not explicitly pointed out in the video, otherwise you will just eat into the jig.
works :)
If the door edge is beveled the jig would have to be somehow clamped flat against the face of the edge.
If it's just screwed to the fence there is enough flex in the fixing to do it, 👍 works for me
To simplify, why not make the jig rest on the top and say right side, then rotate to do the bottom and left.
I would personally keep the router enclosed as its safe. No chance of cutting where you shouldnt
Make a metal jig, then chisel out the rebate without fear, simples,,
Trouble is it itsnt quick, You could also chisel from the wooden jig
Thanks