Love to see you doing repair jobs like this, it gives the DIYer hope. I've no doubt when Trend see the part "I haven't the correct cutter for this" there'll be one in the post. 😂
Nice 👍🏻 I did a 3 m cill on a window 10 stories up last year, the jambs were pretty good, normally i ‘splice’ regardless like your self. This Time I could make my cill slightly ‘beefier’ scribed and cut the jambs each side and slid it in from the inside, obviously I just needed to pop the architrave and didn’t have flooring and carpet to deal with😂 but it worked beautifully! So quick to! For a first time ‘gamble ‘ job 👍🏻. Like you the idea flashes in your mind ‘this seems a good idea…should work’ but there’s always that doubt in the back of the mind 😂 Happy new year mate 👍🏻
I always enjoy rot repair, it's like removing cancer, detective work and restoration. It's satisfying and challenging! Love how you tackled this problem and I am sure the clients will be delighted because who doesn't love a new door sill??
Genius idea splitting the sill and fitting it up into the door jambs. Your miltitool has definitely paid for itself. Superb workmanship, enjoyed watching. Tony
Excellent video again. Really annoys me that most people don’t paint the bottoms of doors before fitting or after trimming. It is a pleasure to watch you work. Unbelievable skill.
Hi Ollie, love the the idea of putting the draft proofer in the door and not the cill, just as a side note I’ve always gone with CILL not SILL look and see how many say SILL and not CILL 🤪 another superb video thanks for takings the time to make it.
So enjoyable to see a job done properly, it's always apparent you take pride in your work, I bet your clients love you and want to keep you in their employ! Seasons greetings to you and yours, have a fab Xmas and all the very best for next year! Cheers! PS thanks for sharing what you do, it's always an education.
Hey mate, Have you just come over? It worked really well, but probably only use this method with Accoya. And its very unusual to not have any rot in the jambs!
@@BradshawJoinery No I've been a member of UK workshop for years since 2009, just not massively active anymore TBH - was pointed to your channel by another member and been enjoying watching your back catalogue of vids.
I have done the same trick with the two part sill but have used PVC house trim for the board since it’s not prone to rot and can be painted. I have also experimented with making folding wedges out of PVC House Trim to push the sill up. If you use PVC glue between the folding wedges you can get the wedges to apply a lot of pressure because the glue acts as a lubricant before it sets allowing you to set the wedges with hand pressure. They say PVC trim is not for structural applications but have found it works for replacement door and window sills where structural loads can be controlled and limited to light compression and uniform loading
I am loving these videos. I have been making and fitting kitchens for years but since working for myself, clients are always asking about other small jobs once they have seen my work/tools. These are the kind of jobs that I haven't done and I am learning a lot from your videos. You made it look so simple. Whether it is simple in reality is another thing 😂
Cheers Christopher. Erm yes sometime i wonder if i should include in the videos how much of a pig some things can be. If your taking on a repair job/rip out.... be prepared for a long day full of swearing and mess normally haha
@@BradshawJoinery Great video, thanks. How do you estimate something like this? Whenever I've quoted a repair job that's realistic about the amount of time and skill needed, people always balk at the price. Is it just finding good clients?
It seems in a driving rain water would run down the jamb weather strip and overwhelm the small dam of the steel insert in the sill. Anyway beautiful work... and I always learn something new from you.
In seriously heavy rain any timber door is going to have a fail point but yes a rebate is slightly more susceptible to water ingress than a raised bar. Depends how.much overhand a d gaps are involved.
i can beat that story .i went to a 75 year old cabin on bainbridge island wash. to replace a rotten threshold . four months later after having to tear down 90% of the building the sill was replaced . 😂 each piece that we removed uncovered more rotten insect devoured wood . fortunately the client was filth rich . there were four other houses on the property that they wanted to remodel so i became the resident carpenter there for THREE years . talk about insane good luck .
Hahah Brilliant! Thats how it goes sometimes! Both my last 2 jobs ive been on for years started as a small window repair or replacement most would have turned down! Id say some luck, but probably more your hard work and attitude that got you there.
Nice job Ollie. These real world solutions as great to see. Great idea to spilt the thresh hold. Makes the materials cheaper as well. If modern glues are all they profess to be looks like a great solution! I did a repair earlier in the year, watched a video by ‘gid joiner’ who used a signal piece it worked very well but the flat section has to be as wide as the frame. He did show a really good technique for sloping the cill for as mortals with only thicknesser. 😉 It looks like you may have been Festool shopping…..
Nice job ollie. Done many of these type repairs and casement cill replacements in the past. That one worked out really well not having to replace bottom of door frame. Have a great Christmas. Look forward to more vids
So couple of observations, Machining the grove after doing the bevel looked a bit wobbly, doing it before would have been more stable against fence. The weather board was cut in-between the frame, I was taught to let it in the frame.... Thoughts? Like the split cill and using the little air bags is genius 👌
Cheers Barry, yes I should have machined the groove first for sure. I genuinely didn't even give it any thought. The backing board makes it alot easier/safer as it's a solid fererence fence I'm addition to the normal fences. Weather bar yeah should be housed into the frame but it's fine to have a tight cut. I've not seen much difference in heavy water pours. If housed I'm water just wells along the bar to the door edge anyway 🤷 Thanks for watching matey
Great job. The sill looks slightly under-supported visually but I can see there is stonework underneath that might require access. The expanding foam is obviously sufficient? What are folding wedges?
That’s ingenious with the air bags ….i may have missed it but is there something under the sill to hold it up against the pavers ? Your work is phenomenal!
Living in Chicago with the wet and cold, I replaced a back door sill on a 100 yrs old house and that piece of red oak required 7 different cuts on the Martin to get it. Next time I will bid a little more full to cover the cost.
Nice to see some proper workmanship. Here in the Netherlands most just want absurd amounts of money for doing a shitty job. I had three guys put up 8 tin roof plates on a tiny shed ( entire roof was about 40m2 ( approx 400 sqft ) and charged EUR 850 / $ 850 for labor only. Job was done by two guys in approx 4 hours. When they left it turned out they screwed the plates straight through to the other end with screws sticking through the ceiling everywhere.
@@BradshawJoinery People with skills are very, very hard to come by and they are booked a year in advance sometimes. Most ( almost all ) of the younger generation don't bother as they don't want to get their hands dirty ( or work at all )
Good quality joinery! My only concern would be the height of the SS water bar above the sloping cill threshold in that in driving rain water will drop off the weatherboard onto the cill and then be blown up and over the shallow SS water bar. Normally, I would spec a 10mm upstand. The draught seal at the base of the door may not prevent rain from weeping in. Having a two thickness cill section kinda goes against the grain but I can't honestly see why it shouldn't work. Was there some solid packs under the cill section because I could see over time that the cill may crush the krazy foam under the cill especially it has to take loads like goods being trollyed in?
It tends to be ok, As with all weather protection the deeper the setback the less likely there will be ingress. Yeah i slid some folding wedges under neath and tapped them together. My camera dropped down to pointing at the floor and i didnt notice..
I fitted a outward opening timber door that just came with a stiff rubber weather bar for the cill. Aside from being a pain to fit people keep kicking it out or standing on it. I was thinking of fitting a strip of wood behind the weather bar to the same height to stop people standing on it and give it some more support. Is this the right way to go? thanks
I am not sure. The best system ive found to retrofit is this one.. www.amazon.co.uk/Exitex-MWK20-Mobility-Weather-Threshold/dp/B07H6YHB5N/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3NZGRGPE9IPVY&keywords=MWK20&qid=1671494268&sprefix=mwk20%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1 Cut 20mm of clearance from floor to door, then screw cill down and counterpart to door. Great bit of kit and no seals underfoot.
@@BradshawJoinery yes very true! Would it be acceptable to have domino’s instead of m&t for smaller window frame joinery? If for example the client doesn’t have the budget for the traditional joinery. If so, would it be best to not use beech for the tenons? Or is that not really an issue either? Thanks! Love your channel, always learn a lot for your videos!
What about the air gap under the threshold? Looked to me it was glued in a way it didn't touch the ground. Is the glue enough to hold it in place or is there a support under somewhere? Say someone very heavy steps on it.
On the fence currently. Blookdy brilliant for odd jobbin, but if you have power available i seem to be reaching for the corded ones. Needs plenty of batteries. I run it with 4 5.2 ah and 2x sca8 chargers. Lasts about 10 mins on full power. But suction is decent. My biggest gripe is its slower to start than the corded ones.... which im used to, so quite often press on, then press it again thinking it hadnt registered, and by doing so turn it off
It's not the be all and end all. The best thing I've noticed is the cable used to mark floors if you ran the wheels into it...m obviously without the cable that isn't an issue... Haha. It's been handy for skirting this week to keep it moving around the room and not hangup. The slow start isnt ideal
Excellent job as usual mate. I imagine you only glued the upper edge of the weather bar to the door so to avoid trapping any moisture? Also are you still going to upload the installation and onsite repair of the sash window project? Keep up the good work!
Ok thanks, didn’t see any glue in dominoes. I think I will try this method. Always screwed and pellet but after time it shows a ‘rings’ or even pops. What manufacturer is the ms polymer from?
@@mandipchaggar1885 This one was Repair care MP, But its not ideal. The best for adhesive properties are CT1 and OB1. The repair care is great for caulking..
Correct me if i'm wrong, but shouldn't the door stop be scribed and cut out to the shape of the weather bar at the bottom, and the weather bar extended to both edges of the door. otherwise a great job.
Cheers Ady, there are pros and cons to both methods. In essence, what you mention is more extreme driving rain protection, this method, works for shedding the vast majority of water. Ive only had 1 problem with weather bar leaking on a ddoor on a hilltop fully exposed, and was more of a issue with the setback of the metal water bar, than the fitting of the weather bar.
Great job. That worked really well. Couple of questions. What was the wood you used? I didn't catch the name. How did you pack up under the cill so that over time foot traffic doesn't break the pu glue and foam underneath? Many thanks
The wood is Accoya and I used slim sliding wedges, (two opposing wedges cut to the height of the gap tapped against each other. In this case 8mm at the butt end and about 150mm long x8 to make 4 supported positions
@@BradshawJoinery it is the truth. I'd planned to finish last Friday. Like that was ever going to happen. This Thu if I'm lucky. Happy Christmas to you and your family and thanks for all the great videos.
Love to see you doing repair jobs like this, it gives the DIYer hope. I've no doubt when Trend see the part "I haven't the correct cutter for this" there'll be one in the post. 😂
Haha! Thats i point i could have probably got one from Trend. Im too used to mackling a solution up
Nice 👍🏻 I did a 3 m cill on a window 10 stories up last year, the jambs were pretty good, normally i ‘splice’ regardless like your self. This Time I could make my cill slightly ‘beefier’ scribed and cut the jambs each side and slid it in from the inside, obviously I just needed to pop the architrave and didn’t have flooring and carpet to deal with😂 but it worked beautifully! So quick to! For a first time ‘gamble ‘ job 👍🏻.
Like you the idea flashes in your mind ‘this seems a good idea…should work’ but there’s always that doubt in the back of the mind 😂
Happy new year mate 👍🏻
The precision and care you take on every project is inspiring. A true lesson to all the cowboys out there on how work should be carried out.
Thankyou Paul, Merry christmas to you
I always enjoy rot repair, it's like removing cancer, detective work and restoration. It's satisfying and challenging! Love how you tackled this problem and I am sure the clients will be delighted because who doesn't love a new door sill??
Cheers matey, Yes very happy client and a pleased joiner lol
Genius idea splitting the sill and fitting it up into the door jambs. Your miltitool has definitely paid for itself. Superb workmanship, enjoyed watching. Tony
Yes the multitool is a must have!!! I love it
Splitting the cill and the base plate is inspired! Those air jacks are brilliant too. Oh, and your work as always, equally inspiring.
Hi Ben, thanks for that, your comments are inspiring! :)
Great technique- I took a door frame apart to put a new cill in… wish I’d seen this first!! Thanks!
Excellent video again. Really annoys me that most people don’t paint the bottoms of doors before fitting or after trimming. It is a pleasure to watch you work. Unbelievable skill.
Thankyou Peter. Especially on these made up doors. They don't need any excuses to rot!
I don't know anything about DIY, but I find watching these videos very relaxing.
Wood you believe it.
Thankyou matey 👍👍
As others have mentioned, wonderful craftsmanship and a very educational post. Hope you have a peaceful holiday!
Hi Lisa, thankyou very much and the same to you. 😊
First rate craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing 🌞
Cheers once again Ray 😃
My goodness, you very skilled, brilliant idea. I will be doing similar on my patio sliding doors, after being inspired by you Sir. Peace and goodwill.
Great work! Your videos are pushing me closer to buying a spindle moulder.
Cheers Mike! They are great tools. Just be very careful and remain safe at all times.
Great job as usual Ollie ,you always seen to come up with great ideas to complete a job
Cheers Pete. I guess it stems from being brought up with fixing anything that broke, without any money... haha
13:22
Doud!!! Your attention to detail is AMAZING to say the least!
Love watching your repair and build videos 😀👊
Leor
Thankyou very much. 😊👍
Hi Ollie, love the the idea of putting the draft proofer in the door and not the cill, just as a side note I’ve always gone with CILL not SILL look and see how many say SILL and not CILL 🤪 another superb video thanks for takings the time to make it.
Cheers Jim, Yeah ill never put one underfoot again. Thanks for the confirmation, i grew up with cill so cill it shall be.
So enjoyable to see a job done properly, it's always apparent you take pride in your work, I bet your clients love you and want to keep you in their employ! Seasons greetings to you and yours, have a fab Xmas and all the very best for next year! Cheers! PS thanks for sharing what you do, it's always an education.
Thankyou, Seasons greetings to you and yours.
Beautiful precise work which you make look so simple!
Cheers for that! :)
Quality workmanship and worth every penny
Thanks Buddy!
Another great job Oliver.
Thanks Paul ❤️👍
Allways nice to see you problem solve. A very good solution and an invisible repair. Cheers Jim
Thankyou Jim. 😊👍
Nice to see good joiner improvising. Oh yeh please get a feed machine for your spindle. Its so much less dangerous
Thank you Ollie for sharing your amazing carpentry skill. Great to watch. Pat north shropshire
Thankyou Pat, really appreciate your kind words.
Proper job - splitting that cill is a genius idea - greetings from UK workshop :)
Hey mate, Have you just come over? It worked really well, but probably only use this method with Accoya. And its very unusual to not have any rot in the jambs!
@@BradshawJoinery No I've been a member of UK workshop for years since 2009, just not massively active anymore TBH - was pointed to your channel by another member and been enjoying watching your back catalogue of vids.
Looks like a great replacement job, have a great Christmas.
Thankyou Nicholas, Happy christmas
I need one of those festool outlets, the older style saws had a straight connector and was so much better.
Why festool changed them is beyond me.
Get on Etsy or tap the link Below. ben that sells them is a genuinely good chap.
Always interesting to watch your videos and, it seems to me, a great solution to your problem.
Thankyou! :)
Yes very interesting. I would have liked to have seen what was supporting the cill from underneath. However as always, excellent quality workmanship.
Thaks Ian, I just use 2 slim wedges tapped against each other under each jamb and 2 in the middle.
@@BradshawJoinery Plastic wedges I assume so they wont rot?
Pump up the jamb! Great to watch, as usual.
Ha! Brilliant I didn't even consider that one. I feel disappointed in myself
I have done the same trick with the two part sill but have used PVC house trim for the board since it’s not prone to rot and can be painted.
I have also experimented with making folding wedges out of PVC House Trim to push the sill up. If you use PVC glue between the folding wedges you can get the wedges to apply a lot of pressure because the glue acts as a lubricant before it sets allowing you to set the wedges with hand pressure.
They say PVC trim is not for structural applications but have found it works for replacement door and window sills where structural loads can be controlled and limited to light compression and uniform loading
I am loving these videos. I have been making and fitting kitchens for years but since working for myself, clients are always asking about other small jobs once they have seen my work/tools. These are the kind of jobs that I haven't done and I am learning a lot from your videos. You made it look so simple. Whether it is simple in reality is another thing 😂
Cheers Christopher. Erm yes sometime i wonder if i should include in the videos how much of a pig some things can be. If your taking on a repair job/rip out.... be prepared for a long day full of swearing and mess normally haha
@@BradshawJoinery Great video, thanks. How do you estimate something like this? Whenever I've quoted a repair job that's realistic about the amount of time and skill needed, people always balk at the price. Is it just finding good clients?
Neat job, excellent quality of work, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Dave. 🙌 Thankyou for watching
Some nice ideas thank you for sharing. Charles
Cheers Charles. No Problem
It seems in a driving rain water would run down the jamb weather strip and overwhelm the small dam of the steel insert in the sill. Anyway beautiful work... and I always learn something new from you.
In seriously heavy rain any timber door is going to have a fail point but yes a rebate is slightly more susceptible to water ingress than a raised bar. Depends how.much overhand a d gaps are involved.
You never cease to impress, method was p'fect
Thankyou for watching. :)
Great video, your workmanship is First Class, what was the adhesive used for attaching the weather bar to the door?. Thanks
Really really appreciate you giving the name of the products you use
No worries. :)
Excellent. I have the exact job to do and because the cil is quite large, I also thought about using two pieces of wood to make it.
Great job 👏🏾👏🏾
Perfect, well it certainly works!
I find your videos relaxing for some reason
Not a bad thang, thankyou
i can beat that story .i went to a 75 year old cabin on bainbridge island wash. to replace a rotten threshold . four months later after having to tear down 90% of the building the sill was replaced . 😂 each piece that we removed uncovered more rotten insect devoured wood . fortunately the client was filth rich . there were four other houses on the property that they wanted to remodel so i became the resident carpenter there for THREE years . talk about insane good luck .
Hahah Brilliant! Thats how it goes sometimes! Both my last 2 jobs ive been on for years started as a small window repair or replacement most would have turned down! Id say some luck, but probably more your hard work and attitude that got you there.
A little late, but you did a fantastic job on this project. Also a well done video. Thanks.
Nice job Ollie. These real world solutions as great to see. Great idea to spilt the thresh hold. Makes the materials cheaper as well. If modern glues are all they profess to be looks like a great solution!
I did a repair earlier in the year, watched a video by ‘gid joiner’ who used a signal piece it worked very well but the flat section has to be as wide as the frame. He did show a really good technique for sloping the cill for as mortals with only thicknesser. 😉
It looks like you may have been Festool shopping…..
Thanks Doug, good to hear from you, Well done on the repairs. Ive bought a few bits recently but reigned it in now. Big bills to pay!! eeek
tidy job m8 I love your work ethic always the right way and not the quickest, very rare these days 👍👍
Cheers matey, Its hard sometimes, but has done me well in time
Lovely skills Ollie, very inspiring tutorial, thank you.
Thankyou Gordon.
Great video, good idea on the two part cill, and what a lovely radial arm saw that Wadkins is. Thanks for posting, Happy Christmas
Thanks Paul, the saw is brilliant, so good in fact I bought 2. I did a video on them 👍
Always look forward to your videos, you teach so much, keep them coming. Have a nice xmas
Cheers Bob. Have a nice christmas yourself.
Brilliant job mate, love watching your videos. All the best for crimbo- Logan
Thankyou Logan. I'll try to keep them coming
love ur onsite videos very knowledgeable and always learn something new .many thanks
Cheers Perry, pleased they have been useful
Brilliant job. Definitely given me food for thought on repairs.
Cheers Steven
Nice job ollie. Done many of these type repairs and casement cill replacements in the past. That one worked out really well not having to replace bottom of door frame. Have a great Christmas. Look forward to more vids
Yes, weird really, but just goes to show that end grain sealing.of the jambs does help!
God bless you all, great video and a kind act. 👍
Thankyou Dave. Merry Christmas
Outstanding craftsmanship Sir, Festool kit as far as the eye can see, 👍 🔨 🎄🇮🇪
Cheers matey, I like it, not all of it is the best but works well for me and user comfort is spot on.
Great job. Do you have a video of how to replace rotten lower door jambs at the same time as replacing the sill?
Not exactly, but there is a door repair on my channel, where I repair the jambs.
Cutting the bevel on the shaper looked awesome! I was wondering how you were going to do it ❤
Thanks, Sompe people male a sled for under the thicknesser, but if you have a Spindle moulder then thats the best way.
Long time I have search for such a video. Thank thank you. I would have so more questions !
No worries, Whats the questions?
Awesome work. Lots of great information! Oh did I mention awesome work!,
Haha thanks Craig, legend
What a lovely job
Cheers 🥂
Great Job Ollie... The one channel on RUclips that deserves MORE Subs.... That Etsy store is Wurke Accessories.... Correct?
Hi Paul, thank you mate, yes that is the one. Top bloke
So couple of observations,
Machining the grove after doing the bevel looked a bit wobbly, doing it before would have been more stable against fence.
The weather board was cut in-between the frame, I was taught to let it in the frame.... Thoughts?
Like the split cill and using the little air bags is genius 👌
Cheers Barry, yes I should have machined the groove first for sure. I genuinely didn't even give it any thought. The backing board makes it alot easier/safer as it's a solid fererence fence I'm addition to the normal fences.
Weather bar yeah should be housed into the frame but it's fine to have a tight cut. I've not seen much difference in heavy water pours. If housed I'm water just wells along the bar to the door edge anyway 🤷
Thanks for watching matey
looks to be a great method
Thanks Gene 😊
Lovely job there.
Many thanks MrToon
You went technotronic on that jam with the air shim
Haha!!! I nearly cut that bit out but thought it was funny haha
Stunning work!
Thankyou Michael
Beautiful work - a really interesting and useful video.
Thanks also for the tip on the TS55 hose - it drives me mad!
Have a great Christmas!
Cheers Steve, hope you get on well with the adapter 👍👍
Great job. The sill looks slightly under-supported visually but I can see there is stonework underneath that might require access. The expanding foam is obviously sufficient? What are folding wedges?
Cheers John, 2 wedges that slide over each other cut from the same jig, so they lift parallel as they are tapped together. (old school)
That looked good.
Cheers Bobbg 👍👍
Excellent work!
Thankyou! 👍👍
Briliant job, very impressive - sadly I suspect your work area does not extend towards London.
Hi Chris, Unfortunately i cannot keep up with the work i have currently. Sorry i cannot be of service.
No glue on the dominoes?
Super clean job
I’m jealous, we don’t have the Ksc 60 in the states yet.
Ouhh the KSC is Fantastic. Absolutely brilliant. I sold my 5 year old corded kapex and bout the new cordless for only cost of £200
Great video !!!! thanks
Thankyou Michael
Excellent job!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Stonkingly great job 😊
Thanks Matey
Nobody mind's paying for a job that's fine by a professional , lovely job
thanks Paul!!
That’s ingenious with the air bags ….i may have missed it but is there something under the sill to hold it up against the pavers ? Your work is phenomenal!
Thanks, I put a couple of folding wedges under after removing the air bags, made from Accoya
@@BradshawJoinery gotcha….your attention to detail is outstanding . I aspire to to be as good as you some day ! 👍
Really liked it
Thankyou
Living in Chicago with the wet and cold, I replaced a back door sill on a 100 yrs old house and that piece of red oak required 7 different cuts on the Martin to get it. Next time I will bid a little more
full to cover the cost.
Haha that sounds about right!!!
Great job done 👌
Thankyou! 👍👍🙌
Nice tidy job!👏🏻
Thankyou Robin
Mad skills👍👍
Nicely done!
Cheers Nick :)
Can I ask did you fit the weather strip with the drip edge against the door and not the bottom.
Ed
It was one the customer bought. They tend to have a drip on both faces. I fill it with sealant to provide more movement accommodation 👍
@@BradshawJoinery great video
Nice to see some proper workmanship. Here in the Netherlands most just want absurd amounts of money for doing a shitty job. I had three guys put up 8 tin roof plates on a tiny shed ( entire roof was about 40m2 ( approx 400 sqft ) and charged EUR 850 / $ 850 for labor only. Job was done by two guys in approx 4 hours. When they left it turned out they screwed the plates straight through to the other end with screws sticking through the ceiling everywhere.
Oh dear Mike. I struggle to see how these people survive. They must switch from one trade to another to not get a bad reputation?
@@BradshawJoinery People with skills are very, very hard to come by and they are booked a year in advance sometimes. Most ( almost all ) of the younger generation don't bother as they don't want to get their hands dirty ( or work at all )
Should you not have used aluminium primer on hardwood?
The cill is Accoya, the end grain sealer is suitable for Accoya. Not it's intended purpose but will be fine. 👍
I would love you to do this to our front door - the problem is we are a little distance from you near Bordeaux.
Haha that would be some commute. Is there noone local?
Good quality joinery! My only concern would be the height of the SS water bar above the sloping cill threshold in that in driving rain water will drop off the weatherboard onto the cill and then be blown up and over the shallow SS water bar. Normally, I would spec a 10mm upstand. The draught seal at the base of the door may not prevent rain from weeping in.
Having a two thickness cill section kinda goes against the grain but I can't honestly see why it shouldn't work. Was there some solid packs under the cill section because I could see over time that the cill may crush the krazy foam under the cill especially it has to take loads like goods being trollyed in?
It tends to be ok, As with all weather protection the deeper the setback the less likely there will be ingress. Yeah i slid some folding wedges under neath and tapped them together. My camera dropped down to pointing at the floor and i didnt notice..
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks for the explanation.
I fitted a outward opening timber door that just came with a stiff rubber weather bar for the cill. Aside from being a pain to fit people keep kicking it out or standing on it. I was thinking of fitting a strip of wood behind the weather bar to the same height to stop people standing on it and give it some more support. Is this the right way to go? thanks
I am not sure. The best system ive found to retrofit is this one.. www.amazon.co.uk/Exitex-MWK20-Mobility-Weather-Threshold/dp/B07H6YHB5N/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3NZGRGPE9IPVY&keywords=MWK20&qid=1671494268&sprefix=mwk20%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1 Cut 20mm of clearance from floor to door, then screw cill down and counterpart to door. Great bit of kit and no seals underfoot.
How much for that work?
nice vid mate, good result
Very clever 👍📐🔨😄
Thanks Gary, i hope you are well mate
@@BradshawJoinery Thank you, hope you’re busy with your favourite jobs, just catching up on some of your videos, 👍🔨📐😄
Great repair 👍🏼 did you use the beech domino’s or the sapele ones for the weather bar? I always thought the beech should be avoided for external use?
Beech, but if that domino is getting wet theres no hope for that door, so it doesnt really matter (imo)
@@BradshawJoinery yes very true! Would it be acceptable to have domino’s instead of m&t for smaller window frame joinery? If for example the client doesn’t have the budget for the traditional joinery. If so, would it be best to not use beech for the tenons? Or is that not really an issue either? Thanks! Love your channel, always learn a lot for your videos!
Great job !!
Thanks Andrew, :)
What about the air gap under the threshold? Looked to me it was glued in a way it didn't touch the ground. Is the glue enough to hold it in place or is there a support under somewhere? Say someone very heavy steps on it.
At some point in there I tapped folding wedges under the new cill sonotnis nicely supported off the brick below
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks. New subscriber here, I am getting all kinds of ideas and inspiration for future projects.
what do you think about the cordless vac I'm looking at getting one thank
On the fence currently. Blookdy brilliant for odd jobbin, but if you have power available i seem to be reaching for the corded ones. Needs plenty of batteries. I run it with 4 5.2 ah and 2x sca8 chargers. Lasts about 10 mins on full power. But suction is decent. My biggest gripe is its slower to start than the corded ones.... which im used to, so quite often press on, then press it again thinking it hadnt registered, and by doing so turn it off
@@BradshawJoinery thanks don't think i will bother with one just put up with the cord for now
It's not the be all and end all. The best thing I've noticed is the cable used to mark floors if you ran the wheels into it...m obviously without the cable that isn't an issue... Haha. It's been handy for skirting this week to keep it moving around the room and not hangup. The slow start isnt ideal
Excellent job as usual mate.
I imagine you only glued the upper edge of the weather bar to the door so to avoid trapping any moisture?
Also are you still going to upload the installation and onsite repair of the sash window project?
Keep up the good work!
Yes i will be eventually. Ive not done it yet..... They still sit in my container haha
Against the inside under your cap sill. Was that metal bar epoxied in place? What a lovely bit of carpentry. Good job!
I just used Pu Glue, it was a decent fit anyway :) Thankyou
Hi do you any glue on dominoes or just floating for alignment purposes?
What glue is used to bond the weather bar?
I put some PU Glue in the mortice hole, so that holds it after 5 mins, the other adhesive is a MS polymer.
Ok thanks, didn’t see any glue in dominoes. I think I will try this method. Always screwed and pellet but after time it shows a ‘rings’ or even pops.
What manufacturer is the ms polymer from?
@@mandipchaggar1885 This one was Repair care MP, But its not ideal. The best for adhesive properties are CT1 and OB1. The repair care is great for caulking..
Thanks again. Overpainting on ms polymer can be a issue. Will look into that repair care one for chalking.
Correct me if i'm wrong, but shouldn't the door stop be scribed and cut out to the shape of the weather bar at the bottom, and the weather bar extended to both edges of the door.
otherwise a great job.
Cheers Ady, there are pros and cons to both methods. In essence, what you mention is more extreme driving rain protection, this method, works for shedding the vast majority of water. Ive only had 1 problem with weather bar leaking on a ddoor on a hilltop fully exposed, and was more of a issue with the setback of the metal water bar, than the fitting of the weather bar.
12:20 I didn’t see you groove the frame for those weatherstrip…?
Its an existing frame, i just replaced the strip
What holds the cill up off the ground? When someone stands on it won't it simply eventually give way? I guess I am missing something in what you did.
On screen titles say folding (opposing) wedges were driven under the cill before the expanding foam.
I didn't film/couldn't but 2 slim wedges that oppose each other until tight to provide a parallel support
@@BradshawJoinery figured so 'cause that foam sure wouldn't have held up long! 🤣🤣
Ta
Great job. That worked really well.
Couple of questions.
What was the wood you used? I didn't catch the name.
How did you pack up under the cill so that over time foot traffic doesn't break the pu glue and foam underneath?
Many thanks
The wood is Accoya and I used slim sliding wedges, (two opposing wedges cut to the height of the gap tapped against each other. In this case 8mm at the butt end and about 150mm long x8 to make 4 supported positions
@@BradshawJoinery brilliant. Many thanks. You in the usual mad before Xmas get everything done rush or have you managed to close up in good time?
Haha how did you know.. tbh I've been in that rush since last Christmas 🤣
@@BradshawJoinery it is the truth.
I'd planned to finish last Friday.
Like that was ever going to happen. This Thu if I'm lucky.
Happy Christmas to you and your family and thanks for all the great videos.