2010 RAV4 low idle speed (engine dies at stops and turns)
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2021
- 2010 RAV4 was dying whenever I stopped, slowed to turn, or even took my foot off gas pedal. Very dangerous! Since it appeared to be an electrical problem, I did troubleshooting of battery, alternator, fuses, and ground but no improvement.
I also tried the various reset/relearn procedures described online. Nothing worked until a diagnostic code indicated I should replace the variable valve timing solenoid… a part I had never heard of before. It is a precision part which responds to various engine loads. Evidently, when the engine slowed down-like to make a stop or turn--the solenoid failed to maintain the correct idle speed and the engine died.
I bought the part for about $100 (you can get it for about half that online but I was in a hurry and there was only one part available in town that day). The installation should have been easy but I accidentally snapped off half of the old one and had to dig the remaining part out. A note that came with the new part said to immediately get an oil change using pure synthetic oil or else problems would probably continue (weird!).
Finally, I performed the reset/ relearn procedure described elsewhere on RUclips. So far, the vehicle stops and turns without problems. Since so many of my previous fixed appeared to work, only to fail again once the engine warmed up, I'll be reporting back on my final results here. 
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I appreciate the video...i changed the VVT and the problem came back ...i replied to you in a comment and in the comment you mentioned there were actually 2 of these sensors...i replaced the second one and then also notcied the oil was about a qt low....replaced the second sensor and topped off oil....all seems well.. hopefully it stays that way ...thanks J.R.
This issue ocuured on my 2013 RAV4 five days ago. It restarted all was good for the next five day. I even drove on an 1800 mile round trip road trip. Now five days and roughly 2000 miles after the first instance it happened again. It stalled at a stop sign inexplicably but restarted. I drove about a mile home, then searched and found this video.
My 08 rav 4 does the same but minimal and i changed the throttle body and battery and still does it but minimal , I guess I’ll have to get this part thank you Sir for your thorough explanation
I have same problem right now , ill try this and see what happen , thanks for you helpfully video .
Thanks so much. I pray for God to reward you
I have heard of this before and supposedly the fix is to clean the throttle body to solve the issue.
for the 4wd and slide error lights.. happened to my few months ago and i just replaced the gas cap and it was gone..
I'm sorry to say the stalling issue returned. I don't know what may have triggered it. I changed the oil and, as I regularly do, I cleaned the VVT solenoid. After that, the dashboard lights for 4WD, Engine, Slippery mode. I repeated the battery disconnect and idle reset/relearn procedure but the stalling returned (usually after the engine had warmed up and I was coming to a stop).
I went back to the drawing board and watched explanations of how VVT works. Turns out there are multiple sensors in addition to the solenoid, any of which can go bad. I removed, cleaned, and replaced the sensors. Having test-driven it once, the problem appears to be gone FOR NOW. Stay tuned.
Solved the engine stall after warn Problem.
" I think I figured out the reason the RAV4 is stalling when warm -- not the EGR, not the IAC valve, but the engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor.
For those who don't know, the ECT is a thermistor, which resistance varies inversely with temp."
The ECT sensor was the culprit.
What sensors did you clean...mine had the same issue...I replaced the same part you mentioned in the video and dldi the idle reset..this solved tge problem for a few months but it seems to have returned
@@samalvarado833 I replaced the VVT solenoid as shown in my video. However, I totally overlooked the OTHER matching solenoid located behind it. I replaced the front one and it ran fine until it didn't! When a good cleaning did not help, I bought a new one but that did not help. Once I realize there was a second one, I replaced it using the still-good first one (which thankfully I had not tossed in the trash). That fixed that.
My Toyota is doing same thing. I have a 2011 rav 2.5 engine. Work at a dealership and we're stumped on it. I replaced both vct and they helped for a few months. Everytime it starts doing it again I've changed the oil and it goes away I use full synthetic oil and changing the oil at only 2500 miles kinda sucks 😂. Have you found the fix to this
We had a problem very similar with our 2008 RAV4. Engine would stop exactly the same wat you described. No shop could figure it out. Took the car to Toyota dealership. After 2 weeks the discover that the bottom of a fuse compartment next to the battery was missing a screw. So when the engine warmed up the fuse would stop making contact and die. Right there we figure out that months prior we took the car to have the battery replaced and the shop person that did the work informed me that the mechanic made a mistake while installing the battery and blew a fuse, he said he replaced the fuse and even didn’t charge for the installation of the battery and gave me a coupon for an oil change. Well, that fuse they blew was in that compartment and when they put it back they didn’t put that screw in. That was the cause of the engine dying. Since then no problems.
What screw ?
Do you have pictures? It will help alot
Hi, thats interesting about the 4X4 and traction control lights, my 2010 rav4 doesn’t stall out or anything but when i wash it and get the undercarriage wet those lights pop on for a day or so (and its only when I spray the undercarriage) until it seems that the car dries out, just thought i would say something in case the lights ever stay on permanently , Did the reset procedure end up fixing that for you ? And after replacing the EVT solenoid did that also keep your car running normal ?
The only light that stays on is that pesky tire pressure light. I've checked the air pressure and it's fine. I do not have the electronic device that would tell me if all five tires have the correct electronic tags. Replacing the EVT solenoid eliminated the stalling 100% for several months. But two days ago, the engine silently died when I reached a stop sign. (Argh!) It happened again later in the day. I just now pulled the solenoid out and sprayed it with some cleaner. I surely hope the expensive part has not gone bad so soon! I will post my results soon.
@@JRInnes one of the sensors could be dead in one of the wheels. Prob no big deal, if you can get past the light being on the make sensors you can put on your valve stems and you can monitor the pressure through Bluetooth on your phone or a device you plug into the cigarette lighter and it shows the pressure of all 4 tires. Alot cheaper than having them replaced. Luckily I haven't had any stalling issues but I'm definitely interested in what happens just for reference if it happens to me in the future
Lol same. After a heavy rain my trac, 4x4 and check engine come on. You can turn them off or if nothing is actually wrong they will go away on their own.
@@RellyGM I had that happen on my 09 r av 4 it dose that
@@JRInnes spare tire low?
The Variable Valve Timing solenoid is replaced in this video. Putting in a new part, followed by an oil change with synthetic oil has ended my idle/stall problems for now. ruclips.net/video/Tj4vIBioQCI/видео.html
This is a common issue, I got rid of it by using good quality fuel, synthetic oil, and clean throttle body
When I asked for synthetic oil at last month's oil change, the technician actually protested. "You know, you don't really need to use synthetic." After my experience with the VVT causing the engine to stall while I'm in traffic, I decided it was worth whatever the extra cost is.
Hi, have you happened to resolve this?
I understand, it has been months. I just wanted to see how the solenoid replacement helped it? Mine is currently doing the same thing. Cleaned it all (the solenoid), but still does the stalling. I ordered a part. Hoping that it will solve it. :(
@@xxmadrebelscumxx No stalling since replacing the solenoid. When I change the oil, I remove and clean the solenoid with carb cleaning spray, then lube it with WD-40. No particular reason for those choices except I happen to have them. Since doing that type of periodic maintenance, the stalling problem has never returned.
My 2011 rav4 dosent shut off all the time but the idle drops down to around 400 and ranges from 550 to 1000 rpms. When I turn the headlights on the alt kicks in and the rpms are more steady. I've noticed that under heavy acceleration it's like the car takes 2 gasps of air then decides to go as usual. No garage can figure it out and their computer pulls up nothing being wrong, but I'm going to try this part and see if it helps. Thanks for your video.
You should also clean carbon build-up in the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. I do that on my Toyota cars every two years and I never have any problem with idling. I tend to replace a throttle body assy. gasket at the same time. I like to clean MAF sensor at the same time.
@@MrCROBosanceros It's already been done. It's been to countless dealerships and garages over the last year now with not 1 person having even a general idea of what the issue is. So I'm gonna give this a shot this weekend.
@@SHORT_SML_MARATHONS My RAV4 suddenly stalled at two stop signs after months of flawless performance. I removed the same part that's described in the video, blasted it with carb cleaner, and reinstalled it. It's been two weeks and there has not been a single instance of dying or low idle since.
@@JRInnes I had the 3 lights come on and was pulling a downstream O2 sensor code. When in reality it was actually the Air/fuel ratio sensor that's under the exhaust manifold. Now that that issue is cleared up I have this strange low idle intermittent idle that goes up when I turn the headlights on or the defrost.
@@MrCROBosanceros I have and it hasn't changed anything. It was fine for 3 days then came right back.
I am experiencing my engine rpm’s drop real low to about 500 rpm when restarting on an incline (with a warm engine) and also sporadically when coming to a hard stop. Do you think this fix will take care of the issue? I already changed the spark plugs, coils, cleaned the MAF sensor and intake and still it sure what is causing it. No CEL codes either on my dash (‘09 RAV4 Base).
I did not know what the problem was until a local Auto Zone pulled an error code. Sure enough, it was the Variable Valve Timing solenoid-a part I had never even heard of. You might try the same thing. The valve costs around 100 bucks, so I wouldn't replace it without checking the code first. Although you can remove the VVT and clean it with carb cleaning spray. Then lightly spray it with WD-40 to re-lubricate it. Do it at your own risk, but that clears up the problem for me.
Hi. I replaced the VVT solenoids, and it didn’t fix my issue. However, after replacing my alternator, the issue is now gone. Now I have a different issue, where I am hearing a whistling noise but only above 25-30mph.
@ddk80 That's interesting. It's funny bc my alternator was replaced, then my car started to idle at very low rpms. 09 Base
@@yahabibi317 same thing with me.. i noticed the sudden drop after i replaced the alternator .. i am thinking it was the serpentine belt but the mechanic said that I might have to replace the belt tensioner?
@@asianzenzation That’s weird I’ll look into that
Remember it could also be a vacum leak or a clocked IAC valve. I don't know why
toyota does not specify using synthetic oil at oil changes, synthetic oil has the hydrolic
properties that the control valves in these cars needs to operate properly. ALWAYS USE
SYNTHETIC OIL or your going to have problems!!!!! The procedure he is doing is referred
to as a re-learn procedure.
Help us so much 💟💟💟😁😁😁😁
On the parts list on Toyota's site talks about a left and right. Do you remember if that matters?
Left and right for what? The location of the VVT solenoid?
@@JRInnes so when I search for the part on the Toyota parts store it lists out several parts. One that say left, right...another says right...in the part desc..
I guess I could just ask where did u get the part from?
Sounds like the parts store needs you to specifiy a Left vs Right part. My parts guy did not ask that question so I don't have the answer. You can see in the video exactly where I took it from. If you could get a screen capture of that or just play the video clip on the phone, it might give him enough info to pick the part. (In my small town, our local parts guys are patient and will patiently help me figure it out. I'm aware some parts stores demand a number. I hope you'll find the right one.)
@@bigdogmn73 AutoZone had it.
After removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the variable valve timing solenoid, I went from two stalls in one day to no stalls for a solid two weeks. Then, the damn thing stalled yesterday. I don't have the problem whipped yet, obviously. But I suspect that part is the problem. I read somewhere that you must 1) change the oil religiously as recommended and 2) ALWAYS use synthetic. Supposedly, this solenoid is very sensitive that way. It just so happens my "Maintenance Required" dashboard light came on and I'm going to get the oil changed before re-cleaning the solenoid. Stay tuned!
Have you had any more issues or have you fixed the issue
@@chanceraver2046 No issues at all since cleaning that part. In the back of my mind, I'm expecting the stalling to occur again if I don't keep clean oil in it. Again, I read on a website that using synthetic oil (which is more expensive) will cause fewer problems than regular oil. I will post again if the problem reoccurs.
This might be another thought the crankshaft sensor (20ish bucks )is fairly inexpensive to replace and know it’s a common ,crank no start problem ,but have heard it can also cause stalling and low idle when it fails to send correct reading ,my wife’s high mileage(200,00)06 rav4 4cyl has rough low idle so when I replace that I’ll also change what you did with it just to cover my bases ,crank sensor is in passenger fender well bottom of the motor ,fairly simple one bolt holding it in unplug .I’ve already replaced all her air intake sensors (maf,iac sensors …..etc and such .
Personally I would be looking at all vacuum lines and hoses, throttle body gasket, valve cover gasket, PCV valve and hose, brake booster lines, etc. Anything carrying a vacuum or under vacuum, and any associated check valves or valves of any type. There's likely one or more leaks occurring somewhere.
Another possibility I would consider, crazy as it might sound, is the ground wire. Check the entire thing, from its starting point to its ending point (at the battery). You said in the video that your battery wires are solid. Ground wires can (and eventually do) oxidize with a light greyish, almost translucent looking oxidation that appears as nothing to the naked eye but can make a huge difference in the way the engine runs. Remove the wire at each connection point along its path (there shouldn't be that many - maybe 3-5 in total) and sand each connector with a piece of fine grit sandpaper. Make each connector nice and shiny and new looking again. Reconnect everything, start, and see if that makes a difference. This process doesn't take that long.
A sign you might need to do this, by the way, is if you connect a volt meter to your battery while the car is running, measure the voltage at your battery, and you aren't getting a solid, steady 14+ volts. Anything less than 14 volts and I would probably do it (considering you have a new alternator).
Any updates @jrinnes?
I would clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner.
I changed mine and still does it but it’s minimal