![J. R. Innes](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- Видео 14
- Просмотров 126 006
J. R. Innes
Добавлен 18 июн 2012
Mystery Solved: What is this clip beside the oil filter housing? (Toyota Rav4 2010 4 cyl)
This is not a problem solving video. More of a mystery solving one. The Rav4 oil filter is unusual. The replaceable paper filter sits inside permanent oil filter housing. Removing that was difficult, and afterwards I noticed a bent metal pin beside it. What is it? "Oil filter retaining clip". Now that you know, you don't need to watch my lousy video.
Просмотров: 372
Видео
How to video a Figma prototype with a Vimeo Record plug-in (2023)
Просмотров 791Год назад
I needed to record myself showing how a Figma prototype works. At the time of this recording, Figma recommended using the Vimeo Record plug. At first, I attempted the process using the Figma app. I loaded the Vimeo plug-in and signed up for a Vimeo account. I ran the Vimeo plug-in, but Vimeo captured the entire desktop screen rather than the Figma prototype window. I reread the instructions and...
Three Innes Brothers
Просмотров 79Год назад
November 17, 2005 -This is a video interview of Jack Innes, Tom Innes, and Mark Innes, the surviving sons of mother Damaris Lilligren Innes and father James Alexander Innes. The three gathered at Jack and Donna's house in Asheville. Tom's son John Innes is heard asking them questions.
SOLVED! My RAV4 briefly shudders when I first start it (rattle, rumble, clatter, knock sounds)
Просмотров 13 тыс.2 года назад
(MY ORIGINAL POST) My 2010 RAV4 makes a noticeable rattle or rumble when I first start the engine. It's hard to hear in the video but in person, it's a strong sound and vibration. The only things I can compare it to is the "knocking" sound some cars make when you use the wrong octane of gas in them. The previous owner told me, "It's a great car, except it makes a loud racket right when you firs...
2010 RAV4 low idle speed (engine dies at stops and turns)
Просмотров 23 тыс.2 года назад
2010 RAV4 was dying whenever I stopped, slowed to turn, or even took my foot off gas pedal. Very dangerous! Since it appeared to be an electrical problem, I did troubleshooting of battery, alternator, fuses, and ground but no improvement. I also tried the various reset/relearn procedures described online. Nothing worked until a diagnostic code indicated I should replace the variable valve timin...
Serpentine belt will not go onto my 2010 RAV4 (SOLVED!)
Просмотров 5 тыс.2 года назад
(Skip my yammering and cut to the chase at 9:15!) I just spent FOUR DAYS trying to get the serpentine belt onto my RAV4. Don't laugh yet. I watched all the RUclips videos and made double sure I bought the correct belt. I mastered the belt diagram*, belt tensioner, and every other detail. But the &$%# belt was about an inch too short to slip onto the final wheel. And believe me, that belt has ZE...
Want to silence that RAV4 rumble / growl / vibration / road noise? (This simple fix works for me!)
Просмотров 43 тыс.2 года назад
Do you hear or feel a strange vibration when your RAV4 reaches speeds of 30 to 50 mph? You’re not alone. In fact millions of other people like you have discovered a condition that Toyota either cannot or will not permanently fix. The vibration is somewhere on the rear differential. You will probably hear it when you are accelerating. (If you don't notice it, your passengers definitely will: "Du...
Ben and Grandpa Tom
Просмотров 195 лет назад
Grandpa Tom and Ben arriving at the Cumberland Gap overlook just as a gusty rain blew in. The video is dated May 16, 2014.
Garage shelves basement shelves
Просмотров 6406 лет назад
After looking online at various designs for basic shelving, I tried an experiment using basic lumber and skills. My goal was to maximize roominess and strength per shelf. Each 8 ft section costs about $125 inc wood and screws. First shelf without plans took a weekend. Second section took about 5 hours. Each shelf is now supporting between 100-150 lbs with no sagging.
Changing spark plugs in 1998 Toyota Sienna (more explanation)
Просмотров 24 тыс.6 лет назад
Are you changing the rear spark plugs on your older Sienna using the shortcut described here ruclips.net/video/a5orM7uFVps/видео.html ? You will learn something useful here. Warning: I a ramble a lot, so don’t hit Play if that bugs you.
1998 Toyota Sienna spark plug removal amazing shortcut
Просмотров 15 тыс.6 лет назад
This is NOT a step by step video. But before you try the hours/long process shown in most RUclips videos, you might want to look at this much simpler method. I am not a mechanic so I had to find a way to change the rear three spark plugs without dissembling so many engine parts. The factory way to change the plugs takes HOURS and expertise. Shout out to ruclips.net/video/a5orM7uFVps/видео.html ...
Skunk around the house
Просмотров 30310 лет назад
A skunk sprayed our two dogs before I could get them inside. Then we watched the critter emerge from it's hiding place.
So much for Toyota being reliable. They can't figure out that they need a pre-pump to move oil around before the vehicle starts.
Sorry you spent the money you did! Thank you for the video! I've been struggling with this fix as well! You've saved me a lot of money. Your video was great and informative!
Get some 99 cemt clamps from HD. Screed around with this forever, hours, trying to do from top. Was quite easy after deciding to take wheel off and accesss the two bottom pulleys. Started up top by using power cord sisor clamp to keep belt snug and correctly routed on the alternator pulley. Then from the bottom used a couple sping clamp to keep belt seated on main pulley. Then rout to compressor and snake up. Put one spring clamp on compressor pulley to make sure seated and some tension is there. . . Then up top removed the spring clamp from alternator for slack and slipped off alternator pulley routed belt under decompressed tensioner. At that point was able to have enough slack to feed belt almost over lip of alternator pulley . . . Pry bar to help push(nudge the helt over the rim of the alternator pulley was successt
What you did makes perfect sense to me. But you can fully expect some snarky person to say "You just weren't using the tensioner correctly!" Bullsh!t. For whatever reason, the tensioner on certain Rav4s do not function as they are intended. If anyone instantly popped theirs on, I will say "Good for you." But I'll then invite them over the next time my serpentine belt needs replacing and let them find out how *easy* it is on my vehicle! : )
Mine happens when i’m on a highway traveling 100kmh plus. Would it be safe to down shift the vehicle at that speed?
I can only speak for myself. When I downshift, it is no different than downshifting from, say, fourth gear to third gear in my manual transmission Focus. It's something I have done when I want an extra burst of speed when entering highway traffic. No harm done here, but you'll need to experiment for yourself. Good luck!
Hello
Try doing that on my uncle's Bugatti's alternator & belt. 8 days. 3 days just to remove parts out. But save uncle $ 84,000. Uncle gave me $35,000 (used that for my child col educations)
This issue ocuured on my 2013 RAV4 five days ago. It restarted all was good for the next five day. I even drove on an 1800 mile round trip road trip. Now five days and roughly 2000 miles after the first instance it happened again. It stalled at a stop sign inexplicably but restarted. I drove about a mile home, then searched and found this video.
Remove the coolant resevauor bracket 1 10mm screwed put open end through there and pull put the belt on tensioner with right hand .
All my awd i had did that it’s transfer case or shafts
My 2010 Rav4 just started doing same too. I suspect there was a time it ran on low oil for some times. It is like that is when it started. When i turn on the key and hold for about a minute, the rattle is minimum. Otherwise without doing that, it rattles very loud for a second then runs great the rest of the day. Could it be the timing calm shaft sprocket that needs changed? I did that for 2012 Honda CRV and it solved the problem
Hey JR, what ended up being the problem? How did you fix.
Didn’t fix it. It sounds bad but causes no harm. When the cost is high and the benefits are minor, I don’t usually bother.
I have a 2023 model and your advice unfortunately is null and void concerning my RAV4 because mine does not have a third shift. I have only between 16K and 17K miles and since I bought this brand new should my vehicle be under warranty to fix the persistence noise?
It's a failing timing gear
Thanks you for sharing. I feel your pain🎉
Bless You 'Magic Man' It Worked Like A Charm! You Rock! 👍
Thanks for the advice!
I appreciate the video...i changed the VVT and the problem came back ...i replied to you in a comment and in the comment you mentioned there were actually 2 of these sensors...i replaced the second one and then also notcied the oil was about a qt low....replaced the second sensor and topped off oil....all seems well.. hopefully it stays that way ...thanks J.R.
I was having this problem today, thanks i will try again tomorrow with this method, much love from Scotland
Same color model (minus a year) this is perfect; thank you so much, had this car since 2009 (started with my grandma then to my cousin then to me now) and Iv been terrified starting ur recently..
FIX! UPDATED THE TCM, to prevent further damage to the torque converter. OP code 369041 7.2
Hey, just bought my car with 135k miles and have this issue. What would be the best to do? Changing the TC is kinda expensive
I'm sorry to say this but this video is wrong, and whoever told him its normal is lying to this nice guy. I fixed this same problem. It was NOT thee rear differential, which is NOT affect by that horizontal manual shift . He is directly shifting sideways, which is visually the transmission being shifted. He is shifting the transmission "manually", to take away the torque converter noise problem that occurs in two areas of speed of the speedometer, when transmission is shifting. This is exactly a torque converter issue. I had this issue. Toyota dealership already had changed the rear differential and fluid just before, which turns out was not the issue, as that issue was a different gradual constant sound. I had exactly this sound in this video, but worse. The noise WILL GET WORSE (louder and longer duration) with time. It has nothing to do with driving habit, and actually occurs worse with gentle driving as the speed shift changes are slower. The exact issue is torque converter not catching and slipping. There are TWO FIXES that the dealer does(!)... They change the Torque converter, AND they update the computer to make the Torque converter latch on earlier and longer. So that's the real solution.... For those that try to fix this, early on, you can change the transmission fluid, and also get a mechanic or Toyota dealership to update your computer code for the torque converter update. That will definitely help, but remember your torque converter already worn, which is why it's not catching, making that grinding sound. So if a transmission fluid change doesn't fully help, then you need the computer update fix. Manually swapping the shifter (as done in this video) and back whenever the noise occurs, will help prevent the grinding situation from getting worse. Mine was worse and Toyota dealership replaced the Torque converter AND updated the computer code (forgot the code number ). I posted the details about this in the Toyota forums. So if you have this noise, you will be able to determine that it's not the rear differential,🎉 and instead the torque converter, if it goes away as in this video by using the shifter sideways, which disables the automatic shifting by sliding sideways like in video. It disables the torque converter to engage and keeps it in same gear, so no interaction with the converter. The Torque converter noise is from not fully engaging, and so grinding, is mainly due to wear. You should have been changing your transmission fluid to keep from wear. Toyota dealership won't tell you this, so most times it's too late. This video has a minor grind noise, and this guy can probably fix this with transmission fluid change alone, as it is just starting to get worse. Mine was worse as it gets louder if you don't do anything. So at least shift it away like this video does . My car had the exact same sound, but way louder and scary as it covered more area of speedometer range. It will occur when the transmission is going to shift into the next gear. The Torque converter is supposed to engage and let go, but it doesn't do it properly and grinds. There is no avoiding that this is Torque converter problem. If you go to any mechanic, they will not want to do this job, as it is not easy money, and some will actually scam you and not replace it, but do the other fixes I already mentioned of transmission fluid change and maybe computer code update, but I believe that is only Toyota can do that. My RAV4 model is a 2010 Limited, but it doesn't matter what year or model it is, as Toyota has this problem on other years and models, and a computer code fix to prevent this wear. Mostly it was a problem in all the RAV4. After Toyota dealership fixed my car with new Torque converter AND updated computer programming code, my RAV4 runs and behaves differently, like a new car(!). I have to be gentle on the accelerator pedal, as it is so responsive the car literally jumps with acceleration when needed, in response to pedal touch! Shifting is also smoother, like a new transmission. The car runs confident and like new. It's quite amazing an old car can behave like a newer car with the computer code update. I believe it is the computer programming new code, because I read that it now tells the torque converter to latch on earlier, and hold on longer, thru the transmission shifts. So it performs more responsively and better like a new car, IMO. That's it. My previous post was concerning the necessity for more transmission fluid maintenance to avoid this wear issue. Hopefully those with this issue can goto the Toyota dealership and convince them to give you the computer code update. That would really help prevent further damage to your torque converter, because the normal old code has the torque converter engaging and releasing too often, which causes the torque converter wear to begin with, and only more transmission fluid maintenance will help prevent the wear... GOOD LUCK!
How would you go about getting the update?
Mine will be finished on day 3......lol.... Thank you.
I believe it's the Torque converter......known problem from a Master Toyota Mechanic
I am the opposite of a master mechanic, so bear that in mind. I have posted several different threads about this same issue. I have heard many solutions suggested by many people. Two things seem clear to me. First, Toyota is aware of this problem and has not done enough to address it. They have issued technical service bulletins to certified Toyota mechanics, but there are many here who were told by those same mechanics that the problem was imaginary or could only be fixed through a hugely expensive repair. Secondly, many Rav4 owners who know they're not imagining AND don't want to gamble $thousands to see if it is fixable are giving up or trying the many fixes shared in these threads. Either way, Toyota does not have to fix the problem they created. That stinks. Not all Rav4s make this noise. Not all fixes mentioned here work permanently (in fact no one has confirmed that their quick fix was STILL working a year or more later). That's too bad. Still, I never discourage people to trying effective, low-cost solutions. But at this point, I'm not sure what that is beyond my original workaround of downshifting at certain speeds.
@@JRInnesMy same exact issue was repaired by an honest Toyota dealership in massapequa Long Island NY. My issue was LOUDER so they were able to spot it, at two speeds it made same noise. It was the torque converter not engaging properly, due to worn torque converter. They replaced the Torque converter, AND updated the computer code, which I read tells the converter to engage earlier and stay on longer. This solved the issue. So I would goto the dealer for you to get the computer update and at least a transmission fluid change to help the torque converter catch better.
@@Maxx134ahello is it compeletely fixed how much u paid for ?
LUBE GAURD SHUDDER FIX worked for me! $20 fix! Annoying rattle @ 1600 RPM, went away with this product. Shift into 4th when torque converter is locked. will be using the 10 OZ product when i drain n fill trans. Excellent
This is often mentioned as a good fix, although some report that it did not work for them or that the noise returned. (I asked a local garage to do this and they refused because a previous customer got furious when the fix did not work.) If you can do it yourself, why not try it?
@JRInnes lube gaurd shudder fix is a 2oz u can just add it through dipstick, no need for a shop
Gonna replace the trans fluid and add 10 oz lubegard platinum
@@canadiansk8hello I have the same problem what u recommend ?
@somaianaibi1537 To diagnose, try adding 2 oz lubegard shudder fixx from amazon through transmission dipstick, if the problem quiets down after 100 miles, then i would do a drain and fill as follows. bought lubegard platinum 10 oz transmission fluid on amazon and 2 quart bottles of toyota ATF WS from toyota dealer, then went to a quick lube place or your trusted auto mechanic asked them to DRAIN AND FILL the transmission with the new fluid and lubegard platinum <not flush>. That fixed my problem completely
This is smart.
I have heard of this before and supposedly the fix is to clean the throttle body to solve the issue.
I have a 99 RAV 4, 4 door. I have had a thrumming sound intensifying over the past few weeks. A rattle in the front end dash but that might be an issue with the windshield and dash ( windshield replacedna few years ago). Any ideas?
I found this video thanks to your comment on another video, thank you for the lifesaving video!!! 😁
This is a common issue, I got rid of it by using good quality fuel, synthetic oil, and clean throttle body
NOTE: If you do rotate the crankshaft in order to get the serpentine belt onto the pulley, beware. Turning it one way is harmless. Turning it the other way is not recommended and can cause damage. Double-check this, but I believe the correct direction is clockwise when facing the engine from the front passenger wheel well.
Drove off the lot in a new cat and noticed it, now what do I do??
It needs to address the torque converter. You should have warranty for dealer to at least update the computer code for torque converter issue.
Mine doesnt have 3 it has s
First, look up this bulletin from years past. Then take it back to your dealer and tell them you know the problem exists and you expect them to find the CURRENT technical service bulletin regarding this issue. They may pretend they don't know at first, hoping you'll give up. But tell them you know that many other Rav4 owners have this exact same issue and that Toyota has authorized a free repair. Here is a link to an older bulletin. Tell them you expect them to check for the bulletin relating to your specific model. www.toyoheadquarters.com/threads/2006-2012-toyota-rav4-rear-differential-warranty-extension-lsc-zf4.554/
The rear differential is a separate sound incremental sound. This sound only appears when transmission shift at certain same speeds . This is a torque converter issue that I had dealership repair with new Torque converter AND updated computer code for torque converter.
Honda Accord is much easier to work on!
I got into the problem just like you. It needs the proper tool for the job, and I figure out the best way is to access from the wheel!
Man, I just wanted to buy my first toyota and the more I read about the gen3 rav4, the more pretty bad issues I find. Even if toyota is foolish enough (just like the rest) to not mandate transmission fluid services, it shouldn't be having symptoms like this at even just 60k miles on the clock as some have experienced. I then opted for the v6 model instead to find that there's an extremely common whining noise at 30-45mph due to incorrectly honed gears in the transmission/transaxle. Toyota never did a recall for this but there are updated correctly honed gears available for the transaxle for a super expensive dealer installation fee. It seems the v6 model also has common vvt phaser issues along with a poorly designed vvt oil supply hose that can rupture and lose all of your oil while driving.
I mean the rest of the car is build like a tank, even that is a very small issue tbh. Go and check VW, Kia, Hyundai cars and you'll find waaaaay more issues worst then this
I wouldn't consider groaning and vibrations from the transmission to be "very small." VW isn't so bad. Their 2.0 tsi and tdi's are super awesome and quite reliable units (all except for usa dieselgate.) Even many of them run Toyota/Aisin transmissions but they aren't blowing pins in their vvt sprockets. Most reliable 2 cars I've had so far are italian fiats, lol, and I mean that. @@maximesauve112
2009 Rav4 AWD, same issue, I was told that I have a bad torque converter. I was wondering if its worth to replace the TC . Thanks
I haven't done that, so I don't know. Read through these comments and you will probably find people giving opposite answers to that. If you can afford it, it might be worth a try. As you know, I've settled on simply "power shifting" to avoid the vibration entirely.
I believe it's around 3 grand to fix from what I've read here.
I fixed this same problem. It was NOT the rear differential, which is NOT affected by that horizontal manual shift . He is directly shifting sideways, which is visually the transmission being shifted. He is shifting the transmission "manually", to take away the torque converter noise problem that occurs in two areas of speed of the speedometer, when transmission is shifting. This is exactly a torque converter issue. I had this issue. Toyota dealership already had changed the rear differential and fluid just before, which turns out was not the issue, as that issue was a different gradual constant sound. I had exactly this sound in this video, but worse. The noise WILL GET WORSE (louder and longer duration) with time. It has nothing to do with driving habit, and actually occurs worse with gentle driving as the speed shift changes are slower. The exact issue is torque converter not catching and slipping. There are TWO FIXES that the dealer does(!)... They change the Torque converter, AND they update the computer to make the Torque converter latch on earlier and longer. So that's the real solution.... For those that try to fix this, early on, you can change the transmission fluid, and also get a mechanic or Toyota dealership to update your computer code for the torque converter update. That will definitely help, but remember your torque converter already worn, which is why it's not catching, making that grinding sound. So if a transmission fluid change doesn't fully help, then you need the computer update fix. Manually swapping the shifter (as done in this video) and back whenever the noise occurs, will help prevent the grinding situation from getting worse. Mine was worse and Toyota dealership replaced the Torque converter AND updated the computer code (forgot the code number ). I posted the details about this in the Toyota forums. So if you have this noise, you will be able to determine that it's not the rear differential, and instead the torque converter, if it goes away as in this video by using the shifter sideways, which disables the automatic shifting by sliding sideways like in video. It disables the torque converter to engage and keeps it in same gear, so no interaction with the converter. The Torque converter noise is from not fully engaging, and so grinding, is mainly due to wear. You should have been changing your transmission fluid to keep from wear. Toyota dealership won't tell you this, so most times it's too late. This video has a minor grind noise, and this guy can probably fix this with transmission fluid change alone, as it is just starting to get worse. Mine was worse as it gets louder if you don't do anything. So at least shift it away like this video does . My car had the exact same sound, but way louder and scary as it covered more area of speedometer range. It will occur when the transmission is going to shift into the next gear. The Torque converter is supposed to engage and let go, but it doesn't do it properly and grinds. There is no avoiding that this is Torque converter problem. If you go to any mechanic, they will not want to do this job, as it is not easy money, and some will actually scam you and not replace it, but do the other fixes I already mentioned of transmission fluid change and maybe computer code update, but I believe that is only Toyota can do that. My RAV4 model is a 2010 Limited, but it doesn't matter what year or model it is, as Toyota has this problem on other years and models, and a computer code fix to prevent this wear. Mostly it was a problem in all the RAV4. After Toyota dealership fixed my car with new Torque converter AND updated computer programming code, my RAV4 runs and behaves differently, like a new car(!). I have to be gentle on the accelerator pedal, as it is so responsive the car literally jumps with acceleration when needed, in response to pedal touch! Shifting is also smoother, like a new transmission. The car runs confident and like new. It's quite amazing an old car can behave like a newer car with the computer code update. I believe it is the computer programming new code, because I read that it now tells the torque converter to latch on earlier, and hold on longer, thru the transmission shifts. So it performs more responsively and better like a new car, IMO. That's it. My previous post was concerning the necessity for more transmission fluid maintenance to avoid this wear issue. Hopefully those with this issue can goto the Toyota dealership and convince them to give you the computer code update. That would really help prevent further damage to your torque converter, because the normal old code has the torque converter engaging and releasing too often, which causes the torque converter wear to begin with, and only more transmission fluid maintenance will help prevent the wear... GOOD LUCK!
Great thread. 2011 Rav4 AWD here, 95k, bought new...started with the 'rumble strip' sound accelerating through maybe 30mph about a month ago. I am this afernoon going to try the 3rd gear fix. Is the general consensus here (other than the 3rd gear fix) to replace the transmission filter and fluid (not power flush), and maybe put in some Lube Gard? Thing is, I like this vehicle. And have maintained it very well. But have yet to replace the transmission fluid...Thanks.
Been using the thrid gear until 45 mph approach, it seems to be working. Glad there is a workaround but shame on Toyota--this is otherwise a wonderful vehicle.
I did a transmission service (not a flush) at 100,000k and it didn't make a difference. The only thing that made a difference was knocking into 3rd for a bit then back into D. The sound is so unnerving, but I drove my RAV for 81k (from 90k when the noise started to 171k when I gave up the car) with no consequences. The sound happened only when the automatic transmission was shifting from 3rd to 4th, but not always. I live in the Northeast and ultimately I had to give up the RAV because of rust back in May, and I have to tell you, I miss it every single day. The new RAVs just aren't the same and Toyota seems to have gotten really arrogant since COVID (check out cablegate on the hybrids), so I went with a Subaru. Did I say I miss my 2009 RAV? It's like grieving a death.
I fixed this same problem. It was NOT the rear differential, which is NOT affected by that horizontal manual shift . He is directly shifting sideways, which is visually the transmission being shifted. He is shifting the transmission "manually", to take away the torque converter noise problem that occurs in two areas of speed of the speedometer, when transmission is shifting. This is exactly a torque converter issue. I had this issue. Toyota dealership already had changed the rear differential and fluid just before, which turns out was not the issue, as that issue was a different gradual constant sound. I had exactly this sound in this video, but worse. The noise WILL GET WORSE (louder and longer duration) with time. It has nothing to do with driving habit, and actually occurs worse with gentle driving as the speed shift changes are slower. The exact issue is torque converter not catching and slipping. There are TWO FIXES that the dealer does(!)... They change the Torque converter, AND they update the computer to make the Torque converter latch on earlier and longer. So that's the real solution.... For those that try to fix this, early on, you can change the transmission fluid, and also get a mechanic or Toyota dealership to update your computer code for the torque converter update. That will definitely help, but remember your torque converter already worn, which is why it's not catching, making that grinding sound. So if a transmission fluid change doesn't fully help, then you need the computer update fix. Manually swapping the shifter (as done in this video) and back whenever the noise occurs, will help prevent the grinding situation from getting worse. Mine was worse and Toyota dealership replaced the Torque converter AND updated the computer code (forgot the code number ). I posted the details about this in the Toyota forums. So if you have this noise, you will be able to determine that it's not the rear differential, and instead the torque converter, if it goes away as in this video by using the shifter sideways, which disables the automatic shifting by sliding sideways like in video. It disables the torque converter to engage and keeps it in same gear, so no interaction with the converter. The Torque converter noise is from not fully engaging, and so grinding, is mainly due to wear. You should have been changing your transmission fluid to keep from wear. Toyota dealership won't tell you this, so most times it's too late. This video has a minor grind noise, and this guy can probably fix this with transmission fluid change alone, as it is just starting to get worse. Mine was worse as it gets louder if you don't do anything. So at least shift it away like this video does . My car had the exact same sound, but way louder and scary as it covered more area of speedometer range. It will occur when the transmission is going to shift into the next gear. The Torque converter is supposed to engage and let go, but it doesn't do it properly and grinds. There is no avoiding that this is Torque converter problem. If you go to any mechanic, they will not want to do this job, as it is not easy money, and some will actually scam you and not replace it, but do the other fixes I already mentioned of transmission fluid change and maybe computer code update, but I believe that is only Toyota can do that. My RAV4 model is a 2010 Limited, but it doesn't matter what year or model it is, as Toyota has this problem on other years and models, and a computer code fix to prevent this wear. Mostly it was a problem in all the RAV4. After Toyota dealership fixed my car with new Torque converter AND updated computer programming code, my RAV4 runs and behaves differently, like a new car(!). I have to be gentle on the accelerator pedal, as it is so responsive the car literally jumps with acceleration when needed, in response to pedal touch! Shifting is also smoother, like a new transmission. The car runs confident and like new. It's quite amazing an old car can behave like a newer car with the computer code update. I believe it is the computer programming new code, because I read that it now tells the torque converter to latch on earlier, and hold on longer, thru the transmission shifts. So it performs more responsively and better like a new car, IMO. That's it. My previous post was concerning the necessity for more transmission fluid maintenance to avoid this wear issue. Hopefully those with this issue can goto the Toyota dealership and convince them to give you the computer code update. That would really help prevent further damage to your torque converter, because the normal old code has the torque converter engaging and releasing too often, which causes the torque converter wear to begin with, and only more transmission fluid maintenance will help prevent the wear... GOOD LUCK!
What also makes it easier is if you are close to your BMI ideal weight and if your body fat percentage is ideal.
2007 rav awd same noise between 35 to 40mph and at 1500 rpms. Noise disappears when shifting to D3
I fixed this same problem. It was NOT the rear differential, which is NOT affected by that horizontal manual shift . He is directly shifting sideways, which is visually the transmission being shifted. He is shifting the transmission "manually", to take away the torque converter noise problem that occurs in two areas of speed of the speedometer, when transmission is shifting. This is exactly a torque converter issue. I had this issue. Toyota dealership already had changed the rear differential and fluid just before, which turns out was not the issue, as that issue was a different gradual constant sound. I had exactly this sound in this video, but worse. The noise WILL GET WORSE (louder and longer duration) with time. It has nothing to do with driving habit, and actually occurs worse with gentle driving as the speed shift changes are slower. The exact issue is torque converter not catching and slipping. There are TWO FIXES that the dealer does(!)... They change the Torque converter, AND they update the computer to make the Torque converter latch on earlier and longer. So that's the real solution.... For those that try to fix this, early on, you can change the transmission fluid, and also get a mechanic or Toyota dealership to update your computer code for the torque converter update. That will definitely help, but remember your torque converter already worn, which is why it's not catching, making that grinding sound. So if a transmission fluid change doesn't fully help, then you need the computer update fix. Manually swapping the shifter (as done in this video) and back whenever the noise occurs, will help prevent the grinding situation from getting worse. Mine was worse and Toyota dealership replaced the Torque converter AND updated the computer code (forgot the code number ). I posted the details about this in the Toyota forums. So if you have this noise, you will be able to determine that it's not the rear differential, and instead the torque converter, if it goes away as in this video by using the shifter sideways, which disables the automatic shifting by sliding sideways like in video. It disables the torque converter to engage and keeps it in same gear, so no interaction with the converter. The Torque converter noise is from not fully engaging, and so grinding, is mainly due to wear. You should have been changing your transmission fluid to keep from wear. Toyota dealership won't tell you this, so most times it's too late. This video has a minor grind noise, and this guy can probably fix this with transmission fluid change alone, as it is just starting to get worse. Mine was worse as it gets louder if you don't do anything. So at least shift it away like this video does . My car had the exact same sound, but way louder and scary as it covered more area of speedometer range. It will occur when the transmission is going to shift into the next gear. The Torque converter is supposed to engage and let go, but it doesn't do it properly and grinds. There is no avoiding that this is Torque converter problem. If you go to any mechanic, they will not want to do this job, as it is not easy money, and some will actually scam you and not replace it, but do the other fixes I already mentioned of transmission fluid change and maybe computer code update, but I believe that is only Toyota can do that. My RAV4 model is a 2010 Limited, but it doesn't matter what year or model it is, as Toyota has this problem on other years and models, and a computer code fix to prevent this wear. Mostly it was a problem in all the RAV4. After Toyota dealership fixed my car with new Torque converter AND updated computer programming code, my RAV4 runs and behaves differently, like a new car(!). I have to be gentle on the accelerator pedal, as it is so responsive the car literally jumps with acceleration when needed, in response to pedal touch! Shifting is also smoother, like a new transmission. The car runs confident and like new. It's quite amazing an old car can behave like a newer car with the computer code update. I believe it is the computer programming new code, because I read that it now tells the torque converter to latch on earlier, and hold on longer, thru the transmission shifts. So it performs more responsively and better like a new car, IMO. That's it. My previous post was concerning the necessity for more transmission fluid maintenance to avoid this wear issue. Hopefully those with this issue can goto the Toyota dealership and convince them to give you the computer code update. That would really help prevent further damage to your torque converter, because the normal old code has the torque converter engaging and releasing too often, which causes the torque converter wear to begin with, and only more transmission fluid maintenance will help prevent the wear... GOOD LUCK!..
We had a problem very similar with our 2008 RAV4. Engine would stop exactly the same wat you described. No shop could figure it out. Took the car to Toyota dealership. After 2 weeks the discover that the bottom of a fuse compartment next to the battery was missing a screw. So when the engine warmed up the fuse would stop making contact and die. Right there we figure out that months prior we took the car to have the battery replaced and the shop person that did the work informed me that the mechanic made a mistake while installing the battery and blew a fuse, he said he replaced the fuse and even didn’t charge for the installation of the battery and gave me a coupon for an oil change. Well, that fuse they blew was in that compartment and when they put it back they didn’t put that screw in. That was the cause of the engine dying. Since then no problems.
What screw ?
Do you have pictures? It will help alot
I'm sorry to say the stalling issue returned. I don't know what may have triggered it. I changed the oil and, as I regularly do, I cleaned the VVT solenoid. After that, the dashboard lights for 4WD, Engine, Slippery mode. I repeated the battery disconnect and idle reset/relearn procedure but the stalling returned (usually after the engine had warmed up and I was coming to a stop). I went back to the drawing board and watched explanations of how VVT works. Turns out there are multiple sensors in addition to the solenoid, any of which can go bad. I removed, cleaned, and replaced the sensors. Having test-driven it once, the problem appears to be gone FOR NOW. Stay tuned.
Solved the engine stall after warn Problem. " I think I figured out the reason the RAV4 is stalling when warm -- not the EGR, not the IAC valve, but the engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor. For those who don't know, the ECT is a thermistor, which resistance varies inversely with temp." The ECT sensor was the culprit.
What sensors did you clean...mine had the same issue...I replaced the same part you mentioned in the video and dldi the idle reset..this solved tge problem for a few months but it seems to have returned
@@samalvarado833 I replaced the VVT solenoid as shown in my video. However, I totally overlooked the OTHER matching solenoid located behind it. I replaced the front one and it ran fine until it didn't! When a good cleaning did not help, I bought a new one but that did not help. Once I realize there was a second one, I replaced it using the still-good first one (which thankfully I had not tossed in the trash). That fixed that.
My Toyota is doing same thing. I have a 2011 rav 2.5 engine. Work at a dealership and we're stumped on it. I replaced both vct and they helped for a few months. Everytime it starts doing it again I've changed the oil and it goes away I use full synthetic oil and changing the oil at only 2500 miles kinda sucks 😂. Have you found the fix to this
I took my RAV4 to the Toyota and had it checked because of the grinding sound when I reach 25 to 45 and it’s the torque converter going out
Tammie. Consider asking them if there is a Toyota "service bulletin" on the problem. The company has agreed to correct whatever this problem is but they limited it to certain years. No harm in asking. (Oh, and you might consider asking them how long they warranty the expensive repair. I mention this because some commentors have paid thousands only to have the problem return almost immediately. If they refuse to guarantee the problem will go away for one or more years, I would think twice before spending the money, especially on an older model like my 2010.) Good luck and let us know how it works out!
Get the computer update code! I fixed this same problem. It was NOT the rear differential, which is NOT affected by that horizontal manual shift . He is directly shifting sideways, which is visually the transmission being shifted. He is shifting the transmission "manually", to take away the torque converter noise problem that occurs in two areas of speed of the speedometer, when transmission is shifting. This is exactly a torque converter issue. I had this issue. Toyota dealership already had changed the rear differential and fluid just before, which turns out was not the issue, as that issue was a different gradual constant sound. I had exactly this sound in this video, but worse. The noise WILL GET WORSE (louder and longer duration) with time. It has nothing to do with driving habit, and actually occurs worse with gentle driving as the speed shift changes are slower. The exact issue is torque converter not catching and slipping. There are TWO FIXES that the dealer does(!)... They change the Torque converter, AND they update the computer to make the Torque converter latch on earlier and longer. So that's the real solution.... For those that try to fix this, early on, you can change the transmission fluid, and also get a mechanic or Toyota dealership to update your computer code for the torque converter update. That will definitely help, but remember your torque converter already worn, which is why it's not catching, making that grinding sound. So if a transmission fluid change doesn't fully help, then you need the computer update fix. Manually swapping the shifter (as done in this video) and back whenever the noise occurs, will help prevent the grinding situation from getting worse. Mine was worse and Toyota dealership replaced the Torque converter AND updated the computer code (forgot the code number ). I posted the details about this in the Toyota forums. So if you have this noise, you will be able to determine that it's not the rear differential, and instead the torque converter, if it goes away as in this video by using the shifter sideways, which disables the automatic shifting by sliding sideways like in video. It disables the torque converter to engage and keeps it in same gear, so no interaction with the converter. The Torque converter noise is from not fully engaging, and so grinding, is mainly due to wear. You should have been changing your transmission fluid to keep from wear. Toyota dealership won't tell you this, so most times it's too late. This video has a minor grind noise, and this guy can probably fix this with transmission fluid change alone, as it is just starting to get worse. Mine was worse as it gets louder if you don't do anything. So at least shift it away like this video does . My car had the exact same sound, but way louder and scary as it covered more area of speedometer range. It will occur when the transmission is going to shift into the next gear. The Torque converter is supposed to engage and let go, but it doesn't do it properly and grinds. There is no avoiding that this is Torque converter problem. If you go to any mechanic, they will not want to do this job, as it is not easy money, and some will actually scam you and not replace it, but do the other fixes I already mentioned of transmission fluid change and maybe computer code update, but I believe that is only Toyota can do that. My RAV4 model is a 2010 Limited, but it doesn't matter what year or model it is, as Toyota has this problem on other years and models, and a computer code fix to prevent this wear. Mostly it was a problem in all the RAV4. After Toyota dealership fixed my car with new Torque converter AND updated computer programming code, my RAV4 runs and behaves differently, like a new car(!). I have to be gentle on the accelerator pedal, as it is so responsive the car literally jumps with acceleration when needed, in response to pedal touch! Shifting is also smoother, like a new transmission. The car runs confident and like new. It's quite amazing an old car can behave like a newer car with the computer code update. I believe it is the computer programming new code, because I read that it now tells the torque converter to latch on earlier, and hold on longer, thru the transmission shifts. So it performs more responsively and better like a new car, IMO. That's it. My previous post was concerning the necessity for more transmission fluid maintenance to avoid this wear issue. Hopefully those with this issue can goto the Toyota dealership and convince them to give you the computer code update. That would really help prevent further damage to your torque converter, because the normal old code has the torque converter engaging and releasing too often, which causes the torque converter wear to begin with, and only more transmission fluid maintenance will help prevent the wear... GOOD LUCK!
any one find out the defect part?
Massik, you can read back through these comments. You will find several people say they know exactly what the problem is and how to fix it. I believe them. But for some reason, there is no agreement about the cause, so there is no perfect answer to your question. Sorry.
Thank you very much
I fixed this same problem. It was NOT the rear differential, which is NOT affected by that horizontal manual shift . He is directly shifting sideways, which is visually the transmission being shifted. He is shifting the transmission "manually", to take away the torque converter noise problem that occurs in two areas of speed of the speedometer, when transmission is shifting. This is exactly a torque converter issue. I had this issue. Toyota dealership already had changed the rear differential and fluid just before, which turns out was not the issue, as that issue was a different gradual constant sound. I had exactly this sound in this video, but worse. The noise WILL GET WORSE (louder and longer duration) with time. It has nothing to do with driving habit, and actually occurs worse with gentle driving as the speed shift changes are slower. The exact issue is torque converter not catching and slipping. There are TWO FIXES that the dealer does(!)... They change the Torque converter, AND they update the computer to make the Torque converter latch on earlier and longer. So that's the real solution.... For those that try to fix this, early on, you can change the transmission fluid, and also get a mechanic or Toyota dealership to update your computer code for the torque converter update. That will definitely help, but remember your torque converter already worn, which is why it's not catching, making that grinding sound. So if a transmission fluid change doesn't fully help, then you need the computer update fix. Manually swapping the shifter (as done in this video) and back whenever the noise occurs, will help prevent the grinding situation from getting worse. Mine was worse and Toyota dealership replaced the Torque converter AND updated the computer code (forgot the code number ). I posted the details about this in the Toyota forums. So if you have this noise, you will be able to determine that it's not the rear differential, and instead the torque converter, if it goes away as in this video by using the shifter sideways, which disables the automatic shifting by sliding sideways like in video. It disables the torque converter to engage and keeps it in same gear, so no interaction with the converter. The Torque converter noise is from not fully engaging, and so grinding, is mainly due to wear. You should have been changing your transmission fluid to keep from wear. Toyota dealership won't tell you this, so most times it's too late. This video has a minor grind noise, and this guy can probably fix this with transmission fluid change alone, as it is just starting to get worse. Mine was worse as it gets louder if you don't do anything. So at least shift it away like this video does . My car had the exact same sound, but way louder and scary as it covered more area of speedometer range. It will occur when the transmission is going to shift into the next gear. The Torque converter is supposed to engage and let go, but it doesn't do it properly and grinds. There is no avoiding that this is Torque converter problem. If you go to any mechanic, they will not want to do this job, as it is not easy money, and some will actually scam you and not replace it, but do the other fixes I already mentioned of transmission fluid change and maybe computer code update, but I believe that is only Toyota can do that. My RAV4 model is a 2010 Limited, but it doesn't matter what year or model it is, as Toyota has this problem on other years and models, and a computer code fix to prevent this wear. Mostly it was a problem in all the RAV4. After Toyota dealership fixed my car with new Torque converter AND updated computer programming code, my RAV4 runs and behaves differently, like a new car(!). I have to be gentle on the accelerator pedal, as it is so responsive the car literally jumps with acceleration when needed, in response to pedal touch! Shifting is also smoother, like a new transmission. The car runs confident and like new. It's quite amazing an old car can behave like a newer car with the computer code update. I believe it is the computer programming new code, because I read that it now tells the torque converter to latch on earlier, and hold on longer, thru the transmission shifts. So it performs more responsively and better like a new car, IMO. That's it. My previous post was concerning the necessity for more transmission fluid maintenance to avoid this wear issue. Hopefully those with this issue can goto the Toyota dealership and convince them to give you the computer code update. That would really help prevent further damage to your torque converter, because the normal old code has the torque converter engaging and releasing too often, which causes the torque converter wear to begin with, and only more transmission fluid maintenance will help prevent the wear... GOOD LUCK!...
J.R. Thanks so much was thinking the same; this cannot be the right size belt. I sized it against the old one and they were very close. This is probably one of those garage tricks but you persavered and figured it out on your own. Thanks for sharing it saved me so much time.
A longass story short: rotate the engine crank while fitting the belt over the compressor. Like a bikechain.
Yep. What he said!
Great work glad i found this video I'm going a try!! I'm assuming you used a ratchet with an extension in a sparkplug socket?
Yes I did. And I highly recommend finding a socket with some sort of rubber gripper inside so the spark plug will lift out instead of falling back down into the engine as you lift.
@@JRInnes ok thanks I got one 👍🏼👍🏼
Ditto with the experience ... Ditto with the comments provided below ... Thanks for making this video to provide a forum for other RAV4 drivers who also have experienced this seemingly worrisome phenomenon.
In a used 2018 rav4 awd and we are hearing the same damn noise. Smh bought this car wanting something reliable and paid 9,000 out of 18 and now this smh bs
I have 2010 RAV4. Doesn't matter the year. I fixed this same problem. It was NOT the rear differential, which is NOT affected by that horizontal manual shift . He is directly shifting sideways, which is visually the transmission being shifted. He is shifting the transmission "manually", to take away the torque converter noise problem that occurs in two areas of speed of the speedometer, when transmission is shifting. This is exactly a torque converter issue. I had this issue. Toyota dealership already had changed the rear differential and fluid just before, which turns out was not the issue, as that issue was a different gradual constant sound. I had exactly this sound in this video, but worse. The noise WILL GET WORSE (louder and longer duration) with time. It has nothing to do with driving habit, and actually occurs worse with gentle driving as the speed shift changes are slower. The exact issue is torque converter not catching and slipping. There are TWO FIXES that the dealer does(!)... They change the Torque converter, AND they update the computer to make the Torque converter latch on earlier and longer. So that's the real solution.... For those that try to fix this, early on, you can change the transmission fluid, and also get a mechanic or Toyota dealership to update your computer code for the torque converter update. That will definitely help, but remember your torque converter already worn, which is why it's not catching, making that grinding sound. So if a transmission fluid change doesn't fully help, then you need the computer update fix. Manually swapping the shifter (as done in this video) and back whenever the noise occurs, will help prevent the grinding situation from getting worse. Mine was worse and Toyota dealership replaced the Torque converter AND updated the computer code (forgot the code number ). I posted the details about this in the Toyota forums. So if you have this noise, you will be able to determine that it's not the rear differential, and instead the torque converter, if it goes away as in this video by using the shifter sideways, which disables the automatic shifting by sliding sideways like in video. It disables the torque converter to engage and keeps it in same gear, so no interaction with the converter. The Torque converter noise is from not fully engaging, and so grinding, is mainly due to wear. You should have been changing your transmission fluid to keep from wear. Toyota dealership won't tell you this, so most times it's too late. This video has a minor grind noise, and this guy can probably fix this with transmission fluid change alone, as it is just starting to get worse. Mine was worse as it gets louder if you don't do anything. So at least shift it away like this video does . My car had the exact same sound, but way louder and scary as it covered more area of speedometer range. It will occur when the transmission is going to shift into the next gear. The Torque converter is supposed to engage and let go, but it doesn't do it properly and grinds. There is no avoiding that this is Torque converter problem. If you go to any mechanic, they will not want to do this job, as it is not easy money, and some will actually scam you and not replace it, but do the other fixes I already mentioned of transmission fluid change and maybe computer code update, but I believe that is only Toyota can do that. My RAV4 model is a 2010 Limited, but it doesn't matter what year or model it is, as Toyota has this problem on other years and models, and a computer code fix to prevent this wear. Mostly it was a problem in all the RAV4. After Toyota dealership fixed my car with new Torque converter AND updated computer programming code, my RAV4 runs and behaves differently, like a new car(!). I have to be gentle on the accelerator pedal, as it is so responsive the car literally jumps with acceleration when needed, in response to pedal touch! Shifting is also smoother, like a new transmission. The car runs confident and like new. It's quite amazing an old car can behave like a newer car with the computer code update. I believe it is the computer programming new code, because I read that it now tells the torque converter to latch on earlier, and hold on longer, thru the transmission shifts. So it performs more responsively and better like a new car, IMO. That's it. My previous post was concerning the necessity for more transmission fluid maintenance to avoid this wear issue. Hopefully those with this issue can goto the Toyota dealership and convince them to give you the computer code update. That would really help prevent further damage to your torque converter, because the normal old code has the torque converter engaging and releasing too often, which causes the torque converter wear to begin with, and only more transmission fluid maintenance will help prevent the wear... GOOD LUCK!
I read all the comments and fixes, and yes there was a fix for the rear, but THIS noise is 100% the torque converter, period. The proof is flipping that gear from "D" to "3", plus other tricks like letter foot off gas and re-applying. Also, Another symptom not mentioned, but most probably there, is a slight jerk when applying gas from a standstill. Torque converter is a true fix, not just tranny oil & filter, because although true toyota says that tranny filter is meant to last, the issue is that the torque converter wear cause tranny oil & filter to become full of debree, and the magnets in the pan cannot attract it all... So those with this issue, that don't correct it, or at least change the filter/oil, will be a fault for neglecting the tranny issue to become worse and eventually needing major transmission work. I just bought a Used Rav4 from toyota dealer, and they took it in for this EXACT same issue, and they stated that have to replace the torque converter.
nah you're wrong its a cold start rattle/knock from a vvti cam gear sprocket. I have a 2011 rav4 same exact issue, was resolved by replacing the cam gear sprockets.
Damn, I feel you...