You sir are a king 😭👑 you saved my car and money the immobilizer on my car was not allowing the car to start the mechanic wanted to change all my immobilizer, ecm, key fob and quoted me more than what my car's worth after trying this it magically started thank you thank you thank i have no words to express my gratitude sir 🙏🙏😭😭❤️
It worked well. The radio and while making a Bluetooth call, they both would shut off for a few seconds and then come back on over and over, and I would lose power steering sometimes too. The check engine light came on and that's when I had Auto Zone give me a diagnostic trouble code, and it was showing the power train system, and ABS. Sure enough though, and the attendant tried to sell me a power train system for $456.90, but she made the mistake of saying that the codes just needed to be reset and that when I found this, and two other videos telling me to do this. Thank you very much!
Keyless entry receiver stopped working on Tahoe and my hair was beginning to fall out until I did what you said and it solved problem. Tahoe was going into sleep mode and stopped listening for remote signal. Thankyou, sooo much unfortunately, hair still falling out for other reasons. Great video!.
Thank you for posting! This saved me a trip to the dealer to clear a fault code. Best description of this process I’ve seen on here. I recently changed out the coil packs and plugs on my e92 335i. I tried to reset the “service engine soon” light using several scanners but none of them could clear it or even see the fault code (presumably because it is now fixed). This fixed my only remaining problem, no more “service engine soon” light now. Only thing I might add is when hooking things back up to hook the positive up first. I’ve heard these cars are sensitive to that and it might cause a lot of other issues if the negative is hooked up first.
I don't think he cares if the internet Cops got proof or not.Lol I bet the 2 losers who said they didn't see the light 1st lol I feel sorry for anyone who has to be around you cause I could only imagine 😅
God bless you! After disconnecting the battery I had a lot of electrical errors. The mechanics were telling me that I had to replace the components. Whit your advise I managed to delete all of them and I checked with vcds on the Passat B6 and they are disappeared. Thank you a lot !
Excellent advice I also turn on the head lamps while the battery terminals are off, it drains all energy and you get a full factory reset, excellent video!
Nice! This will solve many problems on cars and saved money to many without mention a lot of headache avoid. Thanks for sharing your knowledge highly appreciate it! 🙂
Hats off to this guy for sharing this Very useful and Very simple but thorough information. Not to throw others under any buses or trucks but they could be more on it like this guy is. Thank you My fellow Brother mechanic for sharing again with all of us weekend warrior mechanics. Because at the end of the day, all we want to do is get our vehicles to work and operate more smoothly.
We followed your instructions exactly and our 2017 Subaru outback reset perfectly. Thank you so much for your time on doing this video. We sure appreciate it!
I was involved in an electronics sector for 10yrs or so. And I learned that DC Grounds are in pivotal position in circuitry and I developed a habit that I always disconnect a positive side before a negative side so that there would be no floating voltages around components which might kill components on PC boards. Just words from my experience.
@@kim.in.nature. 1) we disconnect first( -)then we disconnect (+) 2)we reconnect first (+) then we reconnect (-) If we do the opposite it may cause short circuit=damage
The ECU packed in on my 1.7tdci zafira .Total nightmare .Got all parts from a donor car .Clocks .ignition and transponder .fuse boxes .Was a waste of time .Rear fuse box in energy model is different from my elite model .The ECU on it's own from the donor car never worked .has to be blank and reset .Finally got there with an ECU from ECUs to go in Redcar .Great result .Fixed now thank god .
@@Loverofengines101 you email address Sir. I am an Automotive Technician at the Monrovia Vocational Training Center, MVTC and technician. now, I am studying Advanced Automotive in Ghana 🇬🇭@ the West African Vehicle Academy (WAVA)
Yes, that's right. When I upgraded LED light bulbs it might mess up the ECU as my dass board light sometimes come on and off, also the ignition. By chance I disconnect the battery and leaves it for about 10 minutes then reconnect it. I replaced all the light bulbs back from original. Wow, everything working as it used to be. The only thing in the video, I'd like to mention that : When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative. Many thanks for your video.
I’ve been having the same problem one of my rpm lights are out and my obd2 port doesn’t read anything and this is after I upgraded from halogen lights to led lights.. so should I reset my ECU
@@SuperDoober Did you? I'm finna reset mine as soon as I get home. I'm having a check engine light for map sensor, I've replaced it but the message still persists. This is my last hope before I take it to the Stealership.
I have the same problem, went to auto repair, code deleted, every thing was fine. then i first installed the check engine light and PGM light came , went to auto repair, code deleted, every thing was fine, removed the LED installed on the front for day time running lights installed some fuse in fuse box again the same problem. Now i again went to same mechanic but he half heartly tried but code came again and again. did the above by removing battery terminal for hours and hours but the fault did not disappear, car performance is restricted, i can not rev the car in 1st gear above the 2000RPM until put the car in 2nd gear. same with other gears. How can i solve this?any advise please?
Interesting video! one little tip always when disconnecting the battery ,take off negative terminal first and when reconnecting the put on the negative terminal on last to avoid short circuits also removing the positive first can possably cause more of a spark and you do not want sparks near a gassing battery (hydrogen gas!) I'm looking forward to more vids cheers
Thanks for sharing. I am going to try it on my 2001 passat and I hope it's going to work. I'd like to hear if anyone has tried it on a car similar to mine
This teaches us that even sometime its good to release them negative energy thats causing faults lights on the dash. thank you. The same method can be applies to negative comments lol
Great idea; however, seriously consider one crucial modification. Although I am not a general electrician, I did earn the certificate. That stated, connecting the positive and negative cables together drains downstream capacitors in the various circuits; however, it also short-circuits them as well, short-circuiting that can possibly damage delicate ECU circuit components. Therefore, I would recommend using a capacitor discharge tool like the one described in an IFIXIT article, “Constructing a Capacitor Discharge Tool,” by Andrew Bookholt. Years-ago, I created such a tool, adding alligator clips for convenience as well. Finally, for safety sake, when reconnecting the battery of a negatively-grounded vehicle, start and finish connecting the positive cable, ending by placing the battery terminal protection cover on the positive post. The last thing one wants to do is wrench-around the positive terminal while a battery cable is connected to the negative terminal. If one’s wrench should accidently come in contact with the frame, sparks will fly. For a negatively-grounded vehicle, that is why one always disconnects the negative cable first and then the positive and reconnects the positive cable first (completely) and then the negative. When jumping a negative-ground vehicle, connect the negative jumper cable to the frame, not the negative battery post, avoiding the consequences of a possible battery explosion. In any case, always wear adequate eye protection.
The capacitor discharge tools isnt necessary. The capacitor would be discharging through the circuitry of the ECU which already has resisors in it. Remember, its because the capacitor are seeing an open circuit when the battery is removed that is why they hold the charge. They would eventually drain after a long time. Shorting the terminals speeds up the process. We use to do this for old computers as well, unplug it, remove the CMOS battery, short a certain jumper and voila, your pasword protection is gone 😂
Disconnect Negative, press the horn at your steering to discharge if you want to, wait a minute then connect back the negative and start the engine, voila all the codes will clear. It's that simple, no positive to wrench, no jumper cables and don't need to waste precious time waiting. Just need a minute of your life of waiting.
Thank you for this tutorial sir, you just saved me at least 300$ for reprogramming the PCM, I know the video is about ECU, but this also worked ( at least for me) to reprogram the PCM ( my engine light was on )
La demontarea bornelor bateriei: 1. Se demonteaza NEGATIVUL ! 2. Apoi pozitivul. La montare: 1.Se monteaza POZITIVUL ! 2. Apoi Negativul. Astfel vei evita un scurtcircuit facut cu sculele si eventuale alte accidente inclusiv o explozie ! Take care my friend !👍
Amigo ,always remove negative terminal first,if you accidently let your spanner touch earth..the whole body of the car, while removing positive side first you may end up with no ECU.
@@andreevans7720 those lights need a dealer scan tool or a good snap on type scanner, and will need to be relearned. This is necessary for warning systems and backup lines in the backup camera.
yes this works and remember -- if YOU have a remote starter, you will loose ability to use the remote starter if you live in a Northern climate and have one of these on your vehicle. The remote will need to be reprogramed to your car at the place you bought the darn remote starter. Mine cost me $25.00 to get this done. And it happened before when I had to replace battery a couple years ago... I guess, this is ONE fact the remote starter place does NOT tell you... so beware, when YOU disconnect battery for a few minutes as described in this video -- you will need to shell out another $25.00 to get the remote starter working again too... dang it... Stay warm my friend.... stay warm.....
Cleaned throttle body butterfly and bore yesterday, then disconnected the battery reading 12.80V (= good). With a voltmeter attached to the disconnected positive and negative cables this left a residual voltage of 1.23V. After 45 minutes this had dropped to 0.14V. After 12 hours residual voltage had dropped to 0.00V. Then reconnected the battery. Started the car now purring nicely at idle.
So could I do this in 24 hours or less .. I'm guessing that would be a correct assumption.. but I'm in a pinch for time on my vw 2012 Eos Executive trim 2.0 TSI
That's facts I change a lot of things of my car and it was running worse like the computer didn't read them. New maf sensor new EGR valve filters battery clean the trothle spark plugs and cables . And it was running worse than before
I just saw another video on RUclips and it suggested a simpler method of simply taking out the ecu fuse , then replacing straight away? Would that work , although maybe best to wait 30 mins before replacing to give time for caps to discharge! Is this going to work ? Certainly easier than disconnecting the battery! 😊
That's completely incorrect 😂, the negative side or black wire is essentially the same as earth/ground connection. ALWAYS when jump starting or connecting a battery put the negative wire on first, it acts as a ground wire and stops sparks flying everywhere.
When you jump start a car you dont even have to connect the negative wire to the battery you can connect it straight to the metal body of the car because it's acting as an earth/ground
@skankhunt42 amen. That's correct. The negative should be last to take off because of safety. The positive 1st. Then, when placing things back, neg 1st, then pos. That way uou keep a ground in case something goes wrong.
He did the right thing by removing the pos first.then the negative. You need to keep the ground in case something goes wrong, that way it's grounded. U always hook the negative 1st and pos last to be on the safe side.
There’s a measurable potential between the positive and negative cables when disconnected from the battery. I use a very thin copper wire wrapped several 100s of times around a pencil to create a “resistor”. Then connect one end to positive and the other end to negative. The connected voltmeter then shows a decreasing voltage. When voltage goes to zero the ECU is reset without damage.
@lover of engines , the brother how you doing ? I want to ask you if you do the same process you do to your car in a 2010 Acura MDX it will work? And if you had any previous computer updates it will erase the updates or it will not affect those ecu updates ? Thank you
Hello great video got a question I just recently had a engine installed into my 2006 Toyota Camry and motor is good it cranks over but won’t start so will this work for that type of situation?
Thank you share that information I'm grateful for it and I'm going to try it on my Nissan and no 300ZX I clean the throttle body that really cleaned it good and I forgot to do that and I'm going to try something thank you for sharing your knowledge
So did you have any dead wires such as from your ECU to your crank positioning sensor or from the ECU to your mass air flow I mean will it reset all that question
Good video Can this procedure work on Holden commodore ve s1 v8. It keeps popping esp control fault and then shut of the esp. Please advice. Regards. Mikey
@@bill6946 I think I have dead wires from my ECU to my manifold air pressure. I have since changed my manifold air pressure, but the check engine light still persists. I wonder if this will work
Thanks for this video. I’m driving a 2011 mazda 3 & having a TCM issues. Don’t have enough money to buy the new one or fixing it. I wonder if this trick works well with Mazdas? That way for my inspection. It’ll pass.
Hi if you don't have the jump leads how much time would it take for the voltage in the system to dissipate (without using the jump leads) before reconnecting the battery leads? Thanks
Thanks for sharing. This method is close to my "Frankenstein Reset"? I was informed on how to reset my PCM and ECM by a "honest mechanic" at a GM Dealership in Texas. When your vehicle has been parked and engine off and is cool to the human touch, you disconnect the battery cables, wrap them in clean rag and let the vampire electronics slowly lose the juice: I usually wait until 30-mins to 60-mins and sometimes it is a couple of hours. When I return I close the circuit by touching the negative and positive cables together for about 10-to-15 seconds then I reconnect the battery cables back onto the battery - start the engine and the whole system is reset and does a system check. I recently had to do it again to rule-out false sensors - the "Check Engine Light" has been gone for nearly a week, but the metal rattling noise is back - I am praying it is not my catalytic converter
If you disconect the earth (chassis/ground) terminal first it is safer. Your spanner will not accidentally short against anything. Also, you dont nee to disconnect both terminals. The circuit is broken as soon as you disconnect one.
@@hcic9860 I agree. But for me? I just disconnect the negative cable (and always disconnect the negative first to prevent shorting to chassis if removing the positive too). Then jumper a wire from the positive cable (still on the battery) to ground for the same "draining" effect. But for "newbies" it is better to tell them to disconnect both battery cables and then short the two cables together - not involving the battery at all. What concerned me is this guy had good intentions, but: 1. He disconnected the "positive" cable first - not safe. 2. When connecting the battery back up, he put the positive cable on first (ok), but "before" he tightened it, he put the negative cable back on too and tightened it first - not safe. 3. He kept calling the cables "terminals" - that is a misnomer, saying to "short the terminals" is wrong... terminals are on the battery! True, he was showing "what to do", but what he was saying was conflicting with what he is doing - and when there is confusion there is danger.
@@ericstern1754 My dad used to smoke over car batteries... I tried to tell him about hydrogen gas, he didn't want to hear it. A battery never blew up on him... he was lucky.
The reason you disconnect the ground first, is because the ground touches every circuit in the car. Therefore you disconnect every circuit, including computers. The positive lead does not. All the positive energy from the battery runs through relays and fuses, where the ground does not. If you replace the ground first and then are sloppy when you connect the positive you can do damage to your computers with voltage spikes. The same applies to jumper cables when you go to jump a car off with a dead battery! You should always connect positive and negative, and wait for about 5 minutes for the battery to charge and a computer's to come online. Hope this helps explain why the positive then negative rule is crucial.
There is another way to reset the check engine light on a 2018 Nissan Pathfinder. It is sooo easy and it works! Press your ignition button twice to put it into the run position, Lift the hood and remove the negative battery cable. Then take the connector and touch the negative battery post three times about a second apart. Then just place the clamp back onto the battery, tighten, and start the vehicle. The light should go away if the problem has been solved. Trust me, it is that easy! Try it, you’ll be glad you did.
I agree, he also call the cables "terminals". No, they are CABLES that are removed and shorted, the TERMINALS are on the battery. And, yes, we all learn from our dads and in high school Autoshop to remove the Ground cable FIRST for safety.
What if I change my computer model and at frist itstart but shut down in like 2seconds like my key program has been of set because I had to get. A new key
@@jaycrook5195 Usually, the car won't start if the smart key does not match what the computer expected. But this video is about clearing error codes after fixing something on your car - like putting in a new O2 Sensor that was failing. You have to clear the error codes to be sure you fixed the problem and make sure the error does not come back.
That's the thing it doesn't read any codes or anything like that I have no codes I replace my ECU computer monitor everything work the first but it sound like the key was showing it out when I start crying it it cranking for like two seconds then it'll go out and now it won't say nothing at all so it got to be my key huh
Haha, I found out just yesterday. My car had a misfiring and would die when engage into gear. No amount of disconnecting the negative terminal helped. Method: step on your accelerator fully to the floor and then turn ignition to "on" for 15s, continue pressing the accelerator to the floor. Then turn off ignition, lift off your accelerator. You are ready to go to normal starting and driving.
@@timbowling6698 Wrong it wasnt flooded he had to do a relearning process for the throttle position,that was his problem.After messing with the butterfly in the throttle body with the battery connected this is what happens.
Do you have to connect the positive and negative together to clear the codes? I thought just disconnecting the battery would clear them. I need to try this on a Subaru Legacy…
How often do we need to do this resetting the ECM computer? Everytime we cleaned the maf sensor or throttle body or at least once a year? Thanks for the video. Is there any symptoms so we can reset the computer?
Ok so I have a good one for you. 2017 Ford Feista SE, non-turbo 1.6. Great car but about a month ago my wife was driving and the brakes seemed to apply themselves eventually bringing the car to a stop, would move. You could put it in drive or reverse and it would act like it wanted to go but was like somebody was standing on the brakes. When I pulled the from calipers they were very hard to get off. I took a guess and figured the ABS module bit when I replaced it my scanner was not able to reprogram it so I cleaned up the old electrical portion from the old one and put it back on, now the brakes still go to the floor
Well, it will work with many cars older than 2012 models. But, many of the late models, say from 2014 models . Also , if the malfunctions are not corrected , the codes and the malfunction lights are going to come back.
@Lover of Engines will this work on a mercedes e class 2011 reg, diesel automatic. I need to reset the ecu as I coded something via a diag tool and now car won't start?
My friend thanks for this video, it provides me good information, just today I did clean my car’s throttle body following your instructions and surprisingly it working so far. ❤❤❤❤
So you disconnect the battery cables at the terminals and touch the two cables together to discharge the capacitors which are basically mini batteries inside the vehicle computers thus erasing the computer learned memory and brings it to factory settings.
Great video, very helpful. Thank you. I have a quick question: my honda civic 2012 EX only charges when the headlights are ON. If I'm driving with my headlights OFF, it will drain my battery gradually. My battery and alternator are tested and they are good. You think resetting the ECU would help?
Hi sir.. Just a quick question.. Ive a problem with my car my rmp idle on 1500. When I drive and take it out of gear, the Rev goes up and down. Will this also help when I reset my ECU that my idle goes back to normal
I’m not sure but you have to try. I do this to my cars all the time. this is not going to do anything bad to your car you just have to try and see what happens
Thanks for the great video.. Always learning.. I have a vauxhall vivaro 2012 2.0 cdti, unfortunately error code DF067 injection multiplexed emission missing, and ecu no communication.. I have checked the midle connection to ecu, and I noticed that I do not have 12V on the wire T2 PIN 4Q of to connect to ecu.. Can be that the problem with my van? Thanks
to me this is only if you have a ECU problem, after you disconnected your car battery for more than a year you should worry about ECU, because this is to allow the car run out of energy so it doesn't save any code 👍
After replacing the fuel pump in my Jeep grand cherokee laredo 3.7 WK- Im now having a problem with a vapor lock and my new pump is making a ringing/humming noise off and on-is there a way to fix it with a inline check valve or inline filter of some sort. I have to release pressure on the fuel rail to re-crank it after it runs for more than 20 minutes/ which is a possible fire risk.
You can use the other "positive cable" as well. Doesnt have to be the "Negative cable" So it doent matter which cable you are using as longs as its just the cable.
The only reason to take the negative off first is so your wrech does not ark to ground. If your taking the Possitive off It might, could be a bad thing, if it welds it's self to ground. Some batterys (in good shape) can have 800+ amps. You can weld with that, or burn up your car too.
This is for someone who doesn’t have a computer to erase a code. you first have to fix the problem on your vehicle before doing this if not the code will come back just like yours 🙏🏽
Yes way to much work pull fuse generally works but if the fix here is needed all you need to do is remove positive cable and ground it to chassis for 15 min tops no need to disconnect negitive or use jumper cables. The advice is good here just a few extra steps that are not needed 😊
Sir good day sir may I asked a question coze I made a change engine on my car coze I got have accedent the so this engine can I do this for new replace engine to reset like this this will be no damage to the e c u thank you sir I'm hopping you're kind reply
You sir are a king 😭👑 you saved my car and money the immobilizer on my car was not allowing the car to start the mechanic wanted to change all my immobilizer, ecm, key fob and quoted me more than what my car's worth after trying this it magically started thank you thank you thank i have no words to express my gratitude sir 🙏🙏😭😭❤️
Thank God. I’m glad that it worked out for you. I do this every time I have a code on my car 🙏🏽
@@Loverofengines101 thank you king 👑
Great info, does this also remove ECU lockout code?@@Loverofengines101
I have the same problem with my car. Please let me know everything you did, and for how long did you leave the battery lines connected together?
It works for me. Thank you so much. After putting everything back.I drove it for a minute and all warning signs are gone.
Emailed my self
Saved
It worked well. The radio and while making a Bluetooth call, they both would shut off for a few seconds and then come back on over and over, and I would lose power steering sometimes too. The check engine light came on and that's when I had Auto Zone give me a diagnostic trouble code, and it was showing the power train system, and ABS. Sure enough though, and the attendant tried to sell me a power train system for $456.90, but she made the mistake of saying that the codes just needed to be reset and that when I found this, and two other videos telling me to do this. Thank you very much!
I’m glad that it worked out for you my friend 🙏🏽
Keyless entry receiver stopped working on Tahoe and my hair was beginning to fall out until I did what you said and it solved problem. Tahoe was going into sleep mode and stopped listening for remote signal. Thankyou, sooo much unfortunately, hair still falling out for other reasons.
Great video!.
Thank you for posting! This saved me a trip to the dealer to clear a fault code. Best description of this process I’ve seen on here. I recently changed out the coil packs and plugs on my e92 335i. I tried to reset the “service engine soon” light using several scanners but none of them could clear it or even see the fault code (presumably because it is now fixed). This fixed my only remaining problem, no more “service engine soon” light now. Only thing I might add is when hooking things back up to hook the positive up first. I’ve heard these cars are sensitive to that and it might cause a lot of other issues if the negative is hooked up first.
You ț😅
Didn't see the dash lights BEFORE this procedure was done. Surely this would have been a good idea to show us a successful outcome.
Whining never really helps anyone..
I was thinking the same, we're not sure if the problem is fixed, cause we did not see any...
What?
He said he had already fixed it prior to making the video. He’s showing the steps he used
I don't think he cares if the internet Cops got proof or not.Lol I bet the 2 losers who said they didn't see the light 1st lol I feel sorry for anyone who has to be around you cause I could only imagine 😅
There was nothing Negative about this procedure, only Positive....thanks !
😂
God bless you! After disconnecting the battery I had a lot of electrical errors. The mechanics were telling me that I had to replace the components. Whit your advise I managed to delete all of them and I checked with vcds on the Passat B6 and they are disappeared.
Thank you a lot !
happy that it works out for you friend. 🙏🏽
Excellent advice I also turn on the head lamps while the battery terminals are off, it drains all energy and you get a full factory reset, excellent video!
@Sissiwit Sukisok You better check with Scotty on that one; he says although they don't light it still drains any power out of the capacitors.
@@bradfallin2698 I agree, Scotty does give the best advice on RUclips.
@Paul Romsky what's wrong with 2006 pt cruiser dieing when crank up and sputtering
If the alternator is charging it's not going to die
@@PamJohnson-iw2ztcrankshaft positioning sensore ....
Nice! This will solve many problems on cars and saved money to many without mention a lot of headache avoid. Thanks for sharing your knowledge highly appreciate it! 🙂
Thank you so so much! You saved my sanity! Couldn't figure out how to make my car run once again, and this trick worked. Thank you!
Glad it helped!🙏🏽
Hats off to this guy for sharing this Very useful and Very simple but thorough information.
Not to throw others under any buses or trucks but they could be more on it like this guy is.
Thank you My fellow Brother mechanic for sharing again with all of us weekend warrior mechanics.
Because at the end of the day, all we want to do is get our vehicles to work and operate more smoothly.
We followed your instructions exactly and our 2017 Subaru outback reset perfectly. Thank you so much for your time on doing this video. We sure appreciate it!
Did same for my 2011 Outback. Worked fine, suggest leaving disconnected for two hours or so.
So that’s mean you have to kept the car running for atleast 30 mins or 1 hr?
@@edgardoiisarsaba6907 Nooo,, it means leave the battery jump leads on the wires for an hour or two.
My k&n filTer felt off the pipe and my 18 taco threw an engine check code. I followed your instructions and it worked perfectly.Thank you!!!!
I hope you're Taco had cheese and veggies 😋
Thanks from Yukon, Canada, for doing this and your time budd...
I was involved in an electronics sector for 10yrs or so. And I learned that DC Grounds are in pivotal position in circuitry and I developed a habit that I always disconnect a positive side before a negative side so that there would be no floating voltages around components which might kill components on PC boards. Just words from my experience.
Does it matter the order in which you reconnect them?
@@kim.in.nature.yes
+ then -
@@kim.in.nature.
1) we disconnect first( -)then we disconnect (+)
2)we reconnect first (+) then we reconnect (-)
If we do the opposite it may cause short circuit=damage
@@konstantin-big 100
He did the positive first then negative. If that's what your was talking about. Always do positive first then negative.and same putting back on.
Thank you SO MUCH my car would not start after running into some water-But now it starts and runs
Did it keep running or did u find another 8ssue
The ECU packed in on my 1.7tdci zafira .Total nightmare .Got all parts from a donor car .Clocks .ignition and transponder .fuse boxes .Was a waste of time .Rear fuse box in energy model is different from my elite model .The ECU on it's own from the donor car never worked .has to be blank and reset .Finally got there with an ECU from ECUs to go in Redcar .Great result .Fixed now thank god .
Are you from LIBERIA 🇱🇷? You speak very very clearly Sir.
Yessir. God bless. LIB,🇱🇷 🙏🏽
@@Loverofengines101 you email address Sir.
I am an Automotive Technician at the Monrovia Vocational Training Center, MVTC and technician. now, I am studying Advanced Automotive in Ghana 🇬🇭@ the West African Vehicle Academy (WAVA)
Wherever hi is from gets my 👍.
Yes, that's right. When I upgraded LED light bulbs it might mess up the ECU as my dass board light sometimes come on and off, also the ignition. By chance I disconnect the battery and leaves it for about 10 minutes then reconnect it. I replaced all the light bulbs back from original. Wow, everything working as it used to be. The only thing in the video, I'd like to mention that :
When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative. Many thanks for your video.
You're right about disconnecting/reconnecting the battery terminals. To help discharge any power in the system faster, turn on the headlights.
Scotty reconmends a 2 ohm 10watt resister across the disconnected cables, same as ypu did with your single leg of your jumper leads.
I’ve been having the same problem one of my rpm lights are out and my obd2 port doesn’t read anything and this is after I upgraded from halogen lights to led lights.. so should I reset my ECU
@@SuperDoober Did you? I'm finna reset mine as soon as I get home. I'm having a check engine light for map sensor, I've replaced it but the message still persists. This is my last hope before I take it to the Stealership.
I have the same problem, went to auto repair, code deleted, every thing was fine. then i first installed the check engine light and PGM light came , went to auto repair, code deleted, every thing was fine, removed the LED installed on the front for day time running lights installed some fuse in fuse box again the same problem. Now i again went to same mechanic but he half heartly tried but code came again and again. did the above by removing battery terminal for hours and hours but the fault did not disappear, car performance is restricted, i can not rev the car in 1st gear above the 2000RPM until put the car in 2nd gear. same with other gears. How can i solve this?any advise please?
Interesting video! one little tip always when disconnecting the battery ,take off negative terminal first and when reconnecting the put on the negative terminal on last to avoid short circuits also removing the positive first can possably cause more of a spark and you do not want sparks near a gassing battery (hydrogen gas!) I'm looking forward to more vids cheers
Why?
Correct.
@@Pgan803why?, Because that's what she said....
Thanks for sharing. I am going to try it on my 2001 passat and I hope it's going to work. I'd like to hear if anyone has tried it on a car similar to mine
very informative.thanks
I agree hundred percent? Negative first then positive? And connect positive first then negative
This teaches us that even sometime its good to release them negative energy thats causing faults lights on the dash. thank you. The same method can be applies to negative comments lol
I really like how you understand this. up to now I still have the same car I this video. and I keep using this to reset my codes in all my cars 🙏🏽
Great idea; however, seriously consider one crucial modification. Although I am not a general electrician, I did earn the certificate. That stated, connecting the positive and negative cables together drains downstream capacitors in the various circuits; however, it also short-circuits them as well, short-circuiting that can possibly damage delicate ECU circuit components. Therefore, I would recommend using a capacitor discharge tool like the one described in an IFIXIT article, “Constructing a Capacitor Discharge Tool,” by Andrew Bookholt. Years-ago, I created such a tool, adding alligator clips for convenience as well.
Finally, for safety sake, when reconnecting the battery of a negatively-grounded vehicle, start and finish connecting the positive cable, ending by placing the battery terminal protection cover on the positive post. The last thing one wants to do is wrench-around the positive terminal while a battery cable is connected to the negative terminal. If one’s wrench should accidently come in contact with the frame, sparks will fly. For a negatively-grounded vehicle, that is why one always disconnects the negative cable first and then the positive and reconnects the positive cable first (completely) and then the negative. When jumping a negative-ground vehicle, connect the negative jumper cable to the frame, not the negative battery post, avoiding the consequences of a possible battery explosion. In any case, always wear adequate eye protection.
Wow thanks for the documentary but only one down fall I fell asleep reading it it took me a second try
The capacitor discharge tools isnt necessary. The capacitor would be discharging through the circuitry of the ECU which already has resisors in it. Remember, its because the capacitor are seeing an open circuit when the battery is removed that is why they hold the charge. They would eventually drain after a long time. Shorting the terminals speeds up the process. We use to do this for old computers as well, unplug it, remove the CMOS battery, short a certain jumper and voila, your pasword protection is gone 😂
Thank you great advice
I eat crayons. Can you draw pictures for me?
Disconnect Negative, press the horn at your steering to discharge if you want to, wait a minute then connect back the negative and start the engine, voila all the codes will clear. It's that simple, no positive to wrench, no jumper cables and don't need to waste precious time waiting. Just need a minute of your life of waiting.
Thank you for this tutorial sir, you just saved me at least 300$ for reprogramming the PCM, I know the video is about ECU, but this also worked ( at least for me) to reprogram the PCM ( my engine light was on )
What does he do?? Disconnect battery cable & connect positive & negetive togather?? Please answer
Thanks
La demontarea bornelor bateriei:
1. Se demonteaza NEGATIVUL !
2. Apoi pozitivul.
La montare:
1.Se monteaza POZITIVUL !
2. Apoi Negativul.
Astfel vei evita un scurtcircuit facut cu sculele si eventuale alte accidente inclusiv o explozie !
Take care my friend !👍
Great video! Thanks. Ignore the know it alls. They're experts on everything without ever doing anything.
Amigo ,always remove negative terminal first,if you accidently let your spanner touch earth..the whole body of the car, while removing positive side first you may end up with no ECU.
Probably no spanner either.
Not to mention possible burns, and the dire need for a new set of underpants.
Make sure you have the radio code if your radio uses one, and disconnect the NEGATIVE cable first
Does the dame apply to a hybrid vehicle? I have a 2016 Honda grace, recently changed the rack and pinion and SAS and VSA light is now on
It worked, tnx...
No disrespect. but I find kinda funny some of the things you pronounce.
@@joseadrianmascorroaguirre1387
@@andreevans7720 those lights need a dealer scan tool or a good snap on type scanner, and will need to be relearned. This is necessary for warning systems and backup lines in the backup camera.
@@andreevans7720 also, you will definitely need an alignment.
Hey bro, thanks for sharing it is great to see someone going through every step including safety tips, your awesome man, drive safe😃
yes this works and remember -- if YOU have a remote starter, you will loose ability to use the remote starter if you live in a Northern climate and have one of these on your vehicle. The remote will need to be reprogramed to your car at the place you bought the darn remote starter. Mine cost me $25.00 to get this done. And it happened before when I had to replace battery a couple years ago... I guess, this is ONE fact the remote starter place does NOT tell you... so beware, when YOU disconnect battery for a few minutes as described in this video -- you will need to shell out another $25.00 to get the remote starter working again too... dang it... Stay warm my friend.... stay warm.....
You can reprogram remote for remote start on your own. It’s easy.
Cleaned throttle body butterfly and bore yesterday, then disconnected the battery reading 12.80V (= good). With a voltmeter attached to the disconnected positive and negative cables this left a residual voltage of 1.23V. After 45 minutes this had dropped to 0.14V. After 12 hours residual voltage had dropped to 0.00V. Then reconnected the battery. Started the car now purring nicely at idle.
So could I do this in 24 hours or less .. I'm guessing that would be a correct assumption.. but I'm in a pinch for time on my vw 2012 Eos Executive trim 2.0 TSI
That's facts I change a lot of things of my car and it was running worse like the computer didn't read them. New maf sensor new EGR valve filters battery clean the trothle spark plugs and cables . And it was running worse than before
Thank for showing the procedures, very helpful video.
I am about to try however your tips and tricks seems great. Thank you.
I just saw another video on RUclips and it suggested a simpler method of simply taking out the ecu fuse , then replacing straight away? Would that work , although maybe best to wait 30 mins before replacing to give time for caps to discharge! Is this going to work ? Certainly easier than disconnecting the battery! 😊
You should always remove the NEGATIVE side first then the POSITIVE. Replace the POSITIVE side first then finally replace the NEGATIVE last.
That's completely incorrect 😂, the negative side or black wire is essentially the same as earth/ground connection. ALWAYS when jump starting or connecting a battery put the negative wire on first, it acts as a ground wire and stops sparks flying everywhere.
When you jump start a car you dont even have to connect the negative wire to the battery you can connect it straight to the metal body of the car because it's acting as an earth/ground
Wrong.
Disconnect negative first, reconnect it last.
@skankhunt42 amen. That's correct. The negative should be last to take off because of safety. The positive 1st. Then, when placing things back, neg 1st, then pos. That way uou keep a ground in case something goes wrong.
He did the right thing by removing the pos first.then the negative. You need to keep the ground in case something goes wrong, that way it's grounded. U always hook the negative 1st and pos last to be on the safe side.
There’s a measurable potential between the positive and negative cables when disconnected from the battery. I use a very thin copper wire wrapped several 100s of times around a pencil to create a “resistor”. Then connect one end to positive and the other end to negative. The connected voltmeter then shows a decreasing voltage. When voltage goes to zero the ECU is reset without damage.
I like Scottie Kilmer method of putting a resistor in the jumper cables chain to prevent any sparking from a sudden discharge.
I use a tail light bulb as resistor and leave for several hours.
@lover of engines , the brother how you doing ? I want to ask you if you do the same process you do to your car in a 2010 Acura MDX it will work? And if you had any previous computer updates it will erase the updates or it will not affect those ecu updates ? Thank you
I'm pretty sure this will work for Acura because Honda make Acura
Hi brother..will this method work on Isuzu Kb200 petrol fuel injection van mine wont start..thnx keep well.
Love the video...very informative, the Toretto's body had me laughing for a good minute😂😂
Liked and subbed. That 'Toronto Body' was definitely the issue in my car. 😄
That Toronto body rocks!
Great hack. Technical name is battery reset. So cool you use the jumper cable. Normally I do it with a long extension.
Hello great video got a question I just recently had a engine installed into my 2006 Toyota Camry and motor is good it cranks over but won’t start so will this work for that type of situation?
Check to be sure the earthing is well grounded.
Thank you share that information I'm grateful for it and I'm going to try it on my Nissan and no 300ZX I clean the throttle body that really cleaned it good and I forgot to do that and I'm going to try something thank you for sharing your knowledge
Tarattle body this guy is great had me cracking up every time he said it.😂😂
This really will reset your car to factory settings!!! Did it on my 2019 Camaro.
So did you have any dead wires such as from your ECU to your crank positioning sensor or from the ECU to your mass air flow I mean will it reset all that question
Good video
Can this procedure work on Holden commodore ve s1 v8.
It keeps popping esp control fault and then shut of the esp.
Please advice.
Regards.
Mikey
@@bill6946 No.
@@bill6946 I think I have dead wires from my ECU to my manifold air pressure. I have since changed my manifold air pressure, but the check engine light still persists. I wonder if this will work
@@hearditfirst8010 i have similar after i changed my manifold. Did it worked?
Great. Must one use the jumper cables? What if just a rod firmly attached to both terminal? Will it work too?
2014 RAM 1500 5.7 hemi - Worked Perfectly! Thank you
Thanks for this video. I’m driving a 2011 mazda 3 & having a TCM issues. Don’t have enough money to buy the new one or fixing it. I wonder if this trick works well with Mazdas? That way for my inspection. It’ll pass.
Hi if you don't have the jump leads how much time would it take for the voltage in the system to dissipate (without using the jump leads) before reconnecting the battery leads? Thanks
Good question. I did it for 15 minutes but it didn't work
Nice vid. C an be used to reset ECU after an accident as airbag light on?
Thanks
yes If you fixed the issue
Thank you so very much. I have a check engine light that is bothering me even after I have cleaned the throttle body. I will now try you tip.
Did it worked?
@@danandrei9197 It will reset a check engine light but unless the problem that caused the CEL is fixed...the light will come back on again.
Thanks for sharing. This method is close to my "Frankenstein Reset"? I was informed on how to reset my PCM and ECM by a "honest mechanic" at a GM Dealership in Texas. When your vehicle has been parked and engine off and is cool to the human touch, you disconnect the battery cables, wrap them in clean rag and let the vampire electronics slowly lose the juice: I usually wait until 30-mins to 60-mins and sometimes it is a couple of hours. When I return I close the circuit by touching the negative and positive cables together for about 10-to-15 seconds then I reconnect the battery cables back onto the battery - start the engine and the whole system is reset and does a system check. I recently had to do it again to rule-out false sensors - the "Check Engine Light" has been gone for nearly a week, but the metal rattling noise is back - I am praying it is not my catalytic converter
If you disconect the earth (chassis/ground) terminal first it is safer.
Your spanner will not accidentally short against anything.
Also, you dont nee to disconnect both terminals.
The circuit is broken as soon as you disconnect one.
I don't know if I'd take that risk with leaving one terminal on 😬
Idiot on utube. Doing it wrong.
@@hcic9860 I agree. But for me? I just disconnect the negative cable (and always disconnect the negative first to prevent shorting to chassis if removing the positive too). Then jumper a wire from the positive cable (still on the battery) to ground for the same "draining" effect. But for "newbies" it is better to tell them to disconnect both battery cables and then short the two cables together - not involving the battery at all. What concerned me is this guy had good intentions, but:
1. He disconnected the "positive" cable first - not safe.
2. When connecting the battery back up, he put the positive cable on first (ok), but "before" he tightened it, he put the negative cable back on too and tightened it first - not safe.
3. He kept calling the cables "terminals" - that is a misnomer, saying to "short the terminals" is wrong... terminals are on the battery! True, he was showing "what to do", but what he was saying was conflicting with what he is doing - and when there is confusion there is danger.
@@paulromsky9527 Airing on the side of safety is always smart. Good observation.
@@ericstern1754 My dad used to smoke over car batteries... I tried to tell him about hydrogen gas, he didn't want to hear it. A battery never blew up on him... he was lucky.
Thanks for this insight sir
But I want to ask a question
Can this pattern be used on the car?
Thanks friend very useful information very much appreciated 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hi great video. If I reset the icu will my tire sensors have to be added again?
Yes
The reason you disconnect the ground first, is because the ground touches every circuit in the car. Therefore you disconnect every circuit, including computers. The positive lead does not. All the positive energy from the battery runs through relays and fuses, where the ground does not. If you replace the ground first and then are sloppy when you connect the positive you can do damage to your computers with voltage spikes. The same applies to jumper cables when you go to jump a car off with a dead battery! You should always connect positive and negative, and wait for about 5 minutes for the battery to charge and a computer's to come online. Hope this helps explain why the positive then negative rule is crucial.
Negative is the ground?
@@supernothing77 yes
Remove negative cable first, connect last for safety. Rest is all good, nice video. Good luck
100 🙏🏽
There is another way to reset the check engine light on a 2018 Nissan Pathfinder. It is sooo easy and it works! Press your ignition button twice to put it into the run position, Lift the hood and remove the negative battery cable. Then take the connector and touch the negative battery post three times about a second apart. Then just place the clamp back onto the battery, tighten, and start the vehicle. The light should go away if the problem has been solved. Trust me, it is that easy! Try it, you’ll be glad you did.
What won't pass smog test 6:45
Awesome tips bro.. Suddenly my car got JUICER
“Disconnect ground lead first” that’s what we learnt since childhood but you did it the other way round
He's doing it the wrong way.
I agree, he also call the cables "terminals". No, they are CABLES that are removed and shorted, the TERMINALS are on the battery. And, yes, we all learn from our dads and in high school Autoshop to remove the Ground cable FIRST for safety.
What if I change my computer model and at frist itstart but shut down in like 2seconds like my key program has been of set because I had to get. A new key
@@jaycrook5195 Usually, the car won't start if the smart key does not match what the computer expected. But this video is about clearing error codes after fixing something on your car - like putting in a new O2 Sensor that was failing. You have to clear the error codes to be sure you fixed the problem and make sure the error does not come back.
That's the thing it doesn't read any codes or anything like that I have no codes I replace my ECU computer monitor everything work the first but it sound like the key was showing it out when I start crying it it cranking for like two seconds then it'll go out and now it won't say nothing at all so it got to be my key huh
Hey great idea. Can I do the same on Mercedes C350e Hybrid?
I just updated this video for 2023 on the same car my 2017 Honda Accord. I really don’t see why not if you have ECU problem
you can also check out the updated version and see for yourself
Haha, I found out just yesterday. My car had a misfiring and would die when engage into gear. No amount of disconnecting the negative terminal helped. Method: step on your accelerator fully to the floor and then turn ignition to "on" for 15s, continue pressing the accelerator to the floor. Then turn off ignition, lift off your accelerator. You are ready to go to normal starting and driving.
Is this also applicable for 318i bmw
You flooded you engine.
Thats how you reset a flooded engine.
@@timbowling6698 Wrong it wasnt flooded he had to do a relearning process for the throttle position,that was his problem.After messing with the butterfly in the throttle body with the battery connected this is what happens.
Do you have to connect the positive and negative together to clear the codes? I thought just disconnecting the battery would clear them. I need to try this on a Subaru Legacy…
How often do we need to do this resetting the ECM computer? Everytime we cleaned the maf sensor or throttle body or at least once a year? Thanks for the video. Is there any symptoms so we can reset the computer?
Ok so I have a good one for you. 2017 Ford Feista SE, non-turbo 1.6. Great car but about a month ago my wife was driving and the brakes seemed to apply themselves eventually bringing the car to a stop, would move. You could put it in drive or reverse and it would act like it wanted to go but was like somebody was standing on the brakes. When I pulled the from calipers they were very hard to get off. I took a guess and figured the ABS module bit when I replaced it my scanner was not able to reprogram it so I cleaned up the old electrical portion from the old one and put it back on, now the brakes still go to the floor
Well, it will work with many cars older than 2012 models. But, many of the late models, say from 2014 models . Also , if the malfunctions are not corrected , the codes and the malfunction lights are going to come back.
You're the only person who understands this video Thanks 😊 🙏🏾
Would this help with resetting a maf sensor?
Thank you so much bro I’m impressed 😆😆keep the videos coming, great content....
Good. I like it as I am facing same problem with my Toyota Corolla car. I will do it to know how it works
it works for me and my Honda is running great up to now
@Lover of Engines will this work on a mercedes e class 2011 reg, diesel automatic. I need to reset the ecu as I coded something via a diag tool and now car won't start?
Thanks. It worked very well on my car after a few repairs. Great video.
My friend thanks for this video, it provides me good information, just today I did clean my car’s throttle body following your instructions and surprisingly it working so far. ❤❤❤❤
So you disconnect the battery cables at the terminals and touch the two cables together to discharge the capacitors which are basically mini batteries inside the vehicle computers thus erasing the computer learned memory and brings it to factory settings.
So basically you created a arch in the charging system to deplete the rest of the system's residual
What does initialize the new battery?
Hey thanks for information it was a good deal on how I'm going reset my ECM or ECU and again Thank.
Great video, very helpful. Thank you. I have a quick question: my honda civic 2012 EX only charges when the headlights are ON. If I'm driving with my headlights OFF, it will drain my battery gradually. My battery and alternator are tested and they are good. You think resetting the ECU would help?
Can i do this with a 2000 Mercedes benz ML 320 also?
Would that get rid off Pgm-fi on the Honda crv 2.2 I dtec enginebeen trying all day
I just dropped an update video on this issue see for yourself
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE God bless you. 🤝
Top tip, always disconnect the negative battery cable 1st 👍
Than you so much. My car couldn’t start after fixing water pipes and hoses and oil cooler.❤
Hi sir.. Just a quick question.. Ive a problem with my car my rmp idle on 1500. When I drive and take it out of gear, the Rev goes up and down. Will this also help when I reset my ECU that my idle goes back to normal
I’m not sure but you have to try. I do this to my cars all the time. this is not going to do anything bad to your car you just have to try and see what happens
Thanks for the great video..
Always learning.. I have a vauxhall vivaro 2012 2.0 cdti, unfortunately error code DF067 injection multiplexed emission missing, and ecu no communication.. I have checked the midle connection to ecu, and I noticed that I do not have 12V on the wire T2 PIN 4Q of to connect to ecu.. Can be that the problem with my van? Thanks
Pppp
Gonna give this a try since I just replaced my IAC and cleaned out my throttle body. Rpm revving up high and run rough as hell
Thanks for your video
Is that working on Citroän c1?
I removed the battery and charged when I put back it the car doesnt want to start
this works for every vehicle ECU, make sure your car battery is connecting properly
Could be immobiliser issue.
But was a good information thank you God bless you
Will this work on a car with the reduced power light on?
So Goods Thank you verry much / Fc.From Thailand.
Does it reset your fuel composite as well or your fuel alcohol level
I'm not sure
No it will not as long as you switch to a 100 proof bourbon as you think about a new car...it will help your alcohol level...😜😜
Can this work on a Toyota Highlander hybrid as well? 🤔
That's good info. IDK, sounds as if circuit has capacitors. Thanks.
I was curious how when I get another ecm do I reprogram it to learn my vehicle?
What if I disconnected the battery for more than a year, should I try your method to my car?
to me this is only if you have a ECU problem, after you disconnected your car battery for more than a year you should worry about ECU, because this is to allow the car run out of energy so it doesn't save any code 👍
How to get the codes back if there's nothing after so long??
@@Loverofengines101 thank you
Thank you myman. I will try with my E46 that airbag light show up and i already replaced to the new airbags but the light is still there.
Excellent information 👍
After replacing the fuel pump in my Jeep grand cherokee laredo 3.7 WK- Im now having a problem with a vapor lock and my new pump is making a ringing/humming noise off and on-is there a way to fix it with a inline check valve or inline filter of some sort. I have to release pressure on the fuel rail to re-crank it after it runs for more than 20 minutes/ which is a possible fire risk.
You can use the other "positive cable" as well. Doesnt have to be the "Negative cable"
So it doent matter which cable you are using as longs as its just the cable.
The only reason to take the negative off first is so your wrech does not ark to ground. If your taking the Possitive off It might, could be a bad thing, if it welds it's self to ground. Some batterys (in good shape) can have 800+ amps. You can weld with that, or burn up your car too.
Thanks for posting this. Does this erase permanent codes in the computer? Even though I 'erased' them via my scan tool, they kept reappearing.
This is for someone who doesn’t have a computer to erase a code. you first have to fix the problem on your vehicle before doing this if not the code will come back just like yours 🙏🏽
Yes way to much work pull fuse generally works but if the fix here is needed all you need to do is remove positive cable and ground it to chassis for 15 min tops no need to disconnect negitive or use jumper cables. The advice is good here just a few extra steps that are not needed 😊
Depends on whether car is positive or negative earth.. Disconnecting both covers both.
Thank, today I had the problem with 2017 Nissan Sentra Sr turbo and is fixed now. Thank big help
Sir good day sir may I asked a question coze I made a change engine on my car coze I got have accedent the so this engine can I do this for new replace engine to reset like this this will be no damage to the e c u thank you sir I'm hopping you're kind reply