High / Low Idle RPM fix - IACV cleaning (Toyota Rav4 1.8L 1ZZ-FE 1999-2005)
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
- ▶ PLEASE NOTE: at 4:11, the screw info shown is not correct. The screws are metric M4 and M5, I'm not sure how I ended up writing that nonsense that you see in the video.
This video explains the cause and fix for too high or too low idle RPM problems on Toyota Rav4 1.8L 1ZZ-FE petrol engines on models made in 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005. The component responsible for these issues is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), which I show you how to remove and clean.
Although the process will be different, the same procedure may also apply to other similar engines like the 2.0L 1AZ-FE, 2.4L 2AZ-FE, and to other cars that come with these engines, like the Toyota Corolla, Celica, Avensis, Camry, and some Lexus models.
𝐋𝐈𝐍𝐊𝐒 𝐅𝐎𝐑 𝐏𝐀𝐑𝐓𝐒 (𝐍𝐎𝐓 𝐀𝐅𝐅𝐈𝐋𝐈𝐀𝐓𝐄𝐃)
▶ IACV gasket: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Id...
▶ IACV valve (part no. 22270-22060):
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Idle-A... 
Наука
The video is very good, excellent technical level. it is wrong to lubricate the o-ring with this oil. the o'ring rubber will degrade, try something else, silicone grease.....it's the same problem with the brake disc caliper boot
yes the silicone is good
It had been a long time since I had seen a video with a high quality of information without any kind of meanness, this is the essence for which the internet was created. Very good video man and thank you very much for sharing!
Excellent !
Couldn't have had a better tutorial.
I have an imported JDM 2003 Toyota Corolla Fielder wagon with a 2ZZ-GE engine. There are others with the 1ZZ-FE and 1NZ-FE engines also.
(It is less work to remove my throttle body, than it is to remove yours)
Our country has bumper to bumper traffic, so life is very hard on the throttle butterfly and its shaft in continuous stop-and-go traffic. My car is doing 235,000kms !
The idle RPM slowly climbed up this year to about 1300RPM. In some situations I used to remove my foot from the accelerator as the car went on its own, tipping on the brakes to slow down.......a dangerous situation indeed !
Removing the throttle body, and holding it up to bright light revealed spaces between the butterfly and the throat of the throttle body, especially on the cable-quadrant side. Backing down the idle screw did not help........The spaces were there !
Yes, there was wear. Wear means more air, means higher RPM.
I was fortunate to find a used throttle-body in my country. (We have an active Japanese Used-parts industry)
There was no light filtering through the throat when held up.
I did "hammer-and-chisel" the three IACV screws, then got new Philip ones for re-assembly.
The two electromagnetic actuator "petal" screws were slackened with a pair of giant pliers. New Philips ones for re-assembly.
I used the same procedure you did for cleaning and re-assembly. (I am 68 and knew Singer machine oil as a boy)
Upon re-installing and securing the throttle-body and starting the car, I still got a 1400RPM idle.
The electromagnetic actuator screws were slackened, and it was turned anti-clockwise. The idle dropped.
Yes, the screw holes on the electromagnetic actuator are elongated to give about 10 degrees of turn. Clockwise to speed up, anti-clockwise to slow down. This augments the function of the idle-screw.
I have my engine idling now at 800RPM.
No more issues. I found out everything by trial and error over an extended period.
Great video for those of us who did not know.
The Toyota part number for the IACV gasket is 22215-7A680
Thank You.
Trinidad & Tobago.
West Indies.
thank you for the extensive detail of your experience, im sure people will find the information in your comment very useful! Happy to know it worked for you!
Thank you man, just finish doing this job today, took the car for a drive and sounds like brand new. Such a nightmare has been, three mechanics since the beginning of January, and no error codes, no one knew what it was... did this and voila!! Thank you so much!! Btw, my issue was high revving after changing the PCV valve.
Fantastic, You have Saved Me My Invaluable time and hundreds of pounds. Pointed out the problem to my mechanic - showed this video to him, he removed, cleaned and fixed it back. RPM dropped from 2000 to 700 now.
Happy Driver :) ThayaX - Harrow, London, UK
Very informative. Followed all instructions for my toyota wish, 1zz engine and found the valve stuck. Cleaned it. The problem was solved permanently just like that.idle is now perfect as if the engine has just been released from the manufacturer.thumbs up sir.
Amazing, Your explanation and the steps including the video perfect. Thank you for the tutorial. I hope you post more.
A truly excellent how to video packed with good, accurate information. I have a 2006 Matrix (1ZZ-FE) with 223,000 miles in which the idle comes down fine after startup, but is starting to occasionally drop to 500rpm. Might be time to service IACV. Also, using an xtool scan tool, I plotted RPM and IAC duty cycle, which responded perfectly to pedal snap (duty cycle increased momentarily). I think it is starting to get stuck when rotary valve is closer to closed position.
Thanks for the lovely comment! i hope you successfully service your iacv if :)
Awesome video! I see others have made comments that I may have made but no need to duplicate that. Instead, I'll just thank you for such a high quality effort. OUTSTANDING, and thank you!
Thank you! I'm happy you liked it, i hope to do some more car repair videos in the near future :)
I have a 2002 Corolla with the same engine and similar idle issues. I am hoping that a good cleaning will help. Excellent video 👏
Excellent video , had the same problem in my Corolla, same engine . Only thing I did different to remove the 2 anti tamper screws ( for the valve step motor ) was to cut a slot in the head and use a flat head screwdriver to remove them . I cheaped out with the gasket too , just coated the old one with some sticky brown aviation gasket sealant. Anyway yeah the little car runs normally again , no more annoying 1800rpm idle
Great quality. Such wonderful detail The kind found only in the best technical schools. Thanks
Best repair video ever!
Thank you for this great tutorial, you are a Hero.
Very very useful and helpful. Surprisingly I haven't been able to find such a tutorial on 1zz engines. Everyone keeps talking about Throttle Body Cleaning but none has talked about the ICAV. I'm going to try this on my celica 2000 with 1zz. I had cleaned the MAF Sensor, Air Filter, and Throttle Body from visible side only (which might've been a mistake as the car now is smoking a lot constantly). The idle seems stuck forever at 2.5k RPM and no matter how low I adjust the Idle Screw, it doesn't come down.
Sounds exactly like an IACV problem, best of luck in fixing it!
@@TheRepairLair Thanks man. Words are not enough to appreciate RUclipsrs such as you, who always go extra mile to spread the wee bit of knowledge available with them. Keep up the fantastic work 🙏
@@abobobilly so you solved your problem?? mine 2zzge after cleaning ivac and tb, jumps 1200-2000 rpm all the time, hot or cold it doesn't matter
@@zzracer Well, kind of. But overall, No. I fully cleaned the throttle body and the ICAV along with replacing the rubber deal for ICAV. It fixed ONE of the issues where RPM were stuck at 2k and won't come down. But the other issue remains the same (although reduced by a lot) where RPM randomly drop down to less than 800-600, giving the feel like it's going to stall. No one is able to figure out what the issue is so i've stopped bothering for a while ... so i can sleep better at night haha 😁😁
@@abobobilly do you have a p303 or p0x00 codes
FIRST OF ALL, GOOD VIDEO AND VERY EXPLANATORY. GREETINGS FROM PANAMA.
Cool. I just replaced the intake gaskets on this engine in a 2006 Matrix. And...I always forget to put back the bracket.
Gn.
Thanks to your information, i was able to let my 1998 rav4 idle normal.
My 98 Toyota RAV4 idles fine until I push in the clutch then the RPM's go sky high even in neutral until I shut it off. This happens some days and not others as intermittent or random, could a new IAC valve solve this?
Thanks Mate , You solved my issue's
Excellent video...all info no showboating ❤
thank you!
Great to find your reply that shows this IAC valve is not equipped with bimetallic spring, then kindly explain IAC valve connection with ECM.
i believe the iacv can be imagined working similarly to a solenoid valve. the ECM controlls the opening of the iacv by using pulse width modulation
I bought a set of 5 points star torx security heads bits and they came out really easy. I guess it depends if they're rusted out
Excellent geometry
Cool. Another thing to check on these engines are intake manifold air leaks and oil leaks at the valve cover, vvt solenoid, and tensioner.
thanks. i may need to perform on my 2002 sienna someday.
excelente vídeo.
thank you!
Very great video
Hello, thanks for your video, I have a 2008 corolla and the engine is similar to the one in the video, I am struggling to remove only the IAC valve without removing the throttle body, I tried many torx tools and discovered that it is a pentalobe or a torx plus TS25. I hope it works fine when I receive it. I don't have a mini lathe like that and the tool is cheaper. Greetings.
Great quality
great video thanks
Wow wonderful
Thank you so much!
very good video!
So useful Godbless
Thx,I've lent alot,well explained 😊. Going to clean my vehicle.
Glad the video helped - hope you can fix your issues :)
amazing content
Just fkn did this and found this video after! (dam algorythm heard me I guess), and had the same trouble with the 5 pin screws. didn't take it apart!, cleaned with carb fluid best I could, and now it idles perfect. it was hesitant when hot, and too low idle when cold. Your level of detail is way better than mine. my excuse is that I wanted to do as much as I could to test it again and see if this would solve it.
I'm very happy to hear that you got it sorted! You might find that it seizes up again though, if you just cleaned with carb cleaner and didn't re-lubricate the bearings - just something to keep in mind for the future.
Good job
good job
Thanks
Very nicely done, but I suggest replacing all of those Phillips head screws with hex bolts. You're less likely to have problems removing them next time. I also apply a bit of anti-seize compound to the threads.
@Tom Smith That's based on what you take out. I don't know what they are. I just brought them with me to the store and compared them.
Amazing
Nice video
vary good
Professional 🫡
Wow awesome....wish you could work on my matrix 😢
good stuff
Great explanation of valve IAC maintenance, please just explain how coolant temperature controls the opening of IAC ? Bimetallic spring working not explained
Hi, and happy you found it useful!
The coolant doesnt control IACV at all - the lines are there to warm the IACV up in case of frost in the valve in negative temperatures
Wow nice
fajita la lata good video
nice video
This video is also a guide fir the same years Toyota Corolla.
great informative video thanks.
one question why does the IAC valve require coolant flowwthrough it?
I don't have a definitive answer, but i assume it is to prevent icing and/or sticky bearings due to oil becoming less viscous in very cold climates if the air coming in through the air intake is below freezing
Gasket part number: 22215-7A680. 7.60euros from dealer. Atleast in Finland.
I changed the throttle body with a used one, and now my Corolla is idling at 1200 rpm regardless of coolant temperature, sometimes it revs up to 1400 rpm when engine reached 90 degress.
Can the throttle body i changed too have IAC problems?
The screws on the IAC are very rusty and very hard to find new screws at hardware store in Norway...
Yes, very likely the IACV could be the cause
Nice video 📸📷📸📷
Nice
Perfecto
Nicely
Great video. I did similar job basedon this video. I'm wondering if is normal see coolant liquid drooping after disconnect the pipes.
yes, its normal, and the amount should be very minimal. Make sure to check the coolant level when done :)
nice
Nice car
Just fill the valve up with oven cleaner. It strips built up carbon, varnish and dirt. Oil on the o rings is bad as it dissolves the orings leading to vacuum leaks, use fluorinated grease or synthetic wheel bearing grease.
Super
Shall i do the oiling in the end ?
Good
Wow nice 💕❣️❣️
excellent video. thanks for sharing! My Rav4 has quite a low idle and I will do a IACV / throttle body clean and hope it helps. One thing I notice is that my coolant reservoir stays cold when my motor is warm. Is this the same on your Rav4?
I haven't paid attention to the coolant reservoir temps on the 1zz-fe, but for some perspective, at ~15 degrees C, my 1cd-ftv diesel rav4 keeps cold from idle pretty much indefinitely (thermostat almost never opens, coolant temp shows ~85 degrees via obd scantool). As long as the temp gauge never goes over "operational temperature" (meaning about the middle of the temp gauge) when you're driving then there is no reason to worry :)
Nice so
I have same problem tomorrow I will do it 👍🤫😍😂
Hello, thanks for this video, really clear and helpful. I have a question, I want to clean my IACV on my 2005 Celica 1zz-fe, but in the repair manual, they explained that we should drain engine coolant before removing the throttle body. Is it the same for the rav4? but is there any possibilities of getting air in the coolant system? I would like to have your point of vue of that. Thanks in advance!
Hi! I don't believe its necessary to drain the coolant, but if a lot of it drains out when you remove the throttle body, you might want to bleed the system and top up the coolant in case any air did get into it. Here's a video explaining the details ruclips.net/video/xeTgmdRkQtY/видео.html
Hello, I did a test, I removed the rubber from the air filter, so I had access to the throttle body, I started up and gradually covered the air intake that enters the IAC valve, as the covers stretch to stop until when completely covered, the engine stops. But I can't find the fault, which is that it starts and as it warms up the rpm goes up to almost 2000 rpm. Then when driving on the street or highway, if you leave it in neutral, the rpm goes up to 2000 and goes down to 1000 until in a moment if I stop the car they go to 2000. A query, I made contact, I measured the female card of the IAC with tester and 12 volts to the positive (black cable) arrive at the connector, nothing to the ground cable and the other signal 0.14 volts and the signal 0.14 volts..., I also tell you that if I disconnect the connector from the IAC, the car runs and does the same problem. I am very concerned that it may be the ECU that may be sending an inappropriate voltage. thanks for your help
Can you please upload video on how to replace oil control valve (vvt solenoid) on toyota rav4 2004 model. Tnx
Not something i've planned, but i'll see if i can do that in the future. Are you looking info for a 1zz-fe or a 1az/2az-fe?
Have you ever tested Red Line (60103) Complete SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner ? Thanks.
No i have not, but out of what i did try i had the most success with Seafoam. Take a look at ProjectFarms video on seafoam: ruclips.net/video/agAWXnT4-EQ/видео.html
@@TheRepairLair Yes, I saw that as well. Thanks for the reply. Red Line products are no joke (no I do not work for them), so it would be really cool if you included those products in your tests. 👍
Excellent video! I think I can apply some of your handy tips to my 2010 v6 rav4. Its idle will vary after start up around 900-500 up and down. I have changed the sparkplugs, pvc is good, replaced vacuum lines, etc. the IACV is a good culprit to start next since I have a little over 151k miles. Have not replaced any coils yet. I presume this would be a good time to inspect any water hoses too?
Did the this work for you
@@user-vm1pn7cz6r I ended up not taking it apart. I found a couple extra hoses that needed to be replaced. I am using Amsoil oil. I have use P.I. fuel cleaner and since, it still does bounce a little, but not near as severe. I also made sure to clean the throttle plate and map sensor as well. I had changed the tranny fluid after I got it (twice,leaky gasket). But since it looked pretty hammered, I think the second drain, filter and fill has been immensely helpful. I average almost 24mpg with easy driving commuting to work. I presume someday I will have to replace or rebuild it, but it runs well enough now I don’t worry about it
I have a 1zzfe 2001 corolla machanic said I have an oil leak from head gasket but it only has 80k miles. I think its the timing chain tension leaking not a head gasket because there is no signs of head gasket leak. Engine runs good. Any thoughts? I think its rare for head gasket to leak oil outside the engine no?
If you have a headgasket leak just get a headgasket leak test kit. Scotty kilmer has a vid
Best
How do you get the roof rails
JuSt GrEaT 😮😮
Hello friend, good video. It would be good before fixing the fault to place a scanner to see what errors it gave us and thus check all the faults. I see that the revolutions were a little high. The normal thing would be between 850 and 950 revolutions per minute.....and also at the end of the video I see that this engine has a problem in the chain...thank for video
Hi! Thanks for the comment. To start - i have skipped showing the steps for scanning as most people wouldn't have the necessary tools. But i did, indeed, scan the ECU beforehand with toyota techstream, and it didn't report any error codes. In fact, i own a 1cd-ftv diesel rav4, and lots of mechanical engine issues (for example, stuck egr, sticking turbo vanes or sticking turbo vacuum regulating valves) are not reported, so my conclusion is that scantools are not fully reliable for diagnosing these older (
@@TheRepairLair ok the noise seemed like it had a problem with the chain tensioner or as if it didn't have the right oil...regards, thanks for the video
May I know what is the size of the O-ring that you've used?
Hi Rich! Sorry, but i don't know - i just picked the closest match I had.
Hi! Is it okay to clean the throttle with throttle cleaner in my RAV4 1zz-fe? I just saw that there's a huge hole for that IACV, I'm worried that the chemical would enter that vent and ruin my IACV. Thanks!
No! Do not clean the throttle valve without taking it out and spraying liquid on this car. If you just want to clean the throttle butterfly valve, you can spray throttle cleaner onto a rag and carefully wipe the valve area, but under no circumstances should you spray the cleaner directly into the valve, and have any leak down into the IACV.
@@TheRepairLair thanks! You have me subscribed to your channel! To more 1zz-fe Rav4 repairs! 😁
Wonderful clip.
A 09 Corolla my son just acquired has a similar issue-idling at 1100rpm( to my prospective 1100rpm is an issue because all my vehicles' idle are 600 to 800). I have never owned Toyota myself so this is a question for you. 1100 rpm is acceptable idle speed for toyota especially Corolla?
Thanks and again your tutorial is very informative.
I can't answer this regarding an 09 corolla, sorry
@@TheRepairLair thanks. Happy holidays.
Hello. After the engine reaches the ideal/normal working temperature, the rpm should be between 500-800 at idle. Maximum of 900 rpm.
Same thing was done to mine yesterday and it dropped but revs high when you put off the AC. Can my engine rev at 600-800?
The ECU adjusts the RPM's to go higher when you turn on the AC, its normal. The default RPM for 1az-fe, i believe, is about 700-800, but no problem for it to rev either a bit lower or a bit higher.
Could you tell me if you know if that “idle air control” valve is also the San as for a 2003 Toyota Corolla model? Before I take it apart that would really help to know 😅
I don't have a 2003 toyota corolla to check 🤣
If it's a 1.8L, it will probably be the same. Even if it's not the same, it's likely to be very similar so everything in this video will still apply, just the shape and location of it might be different
d
@@TheRepairLair Thank you so much for getting back to me! 😬One last question you sprayed some carb cleaner and oil in the IAC motor but other videos I saw said to try to keep liquid or sprays away from the motor but with your video you sprayed it straight into the hole of the motor. I just want to double check that’s OK to do and it won’t damage the motor at all?
They could have been referring to avoid spraying anything into the IACV if cleaning the throttle valve without dismantling? I don't believe there's any issue spraying as shown in my video - the plastic part is fully sealed and no cleaner is able to get into the motor internals.
@@TheRepairLair ok great thank you 🙏
My 98 Toyota RAV4 idles fine until I push in the clutch then the RPM's go sky high even in neutral until I shut it off. This happens some days and not others as intermittent or random, could it be the IAC valve?
Hi! Those symptoms sound very strange, i have no idea about what could cause that. It doesn't sound related to the IACV though.
I'm considering to buy this version with 1NZ-FE engine, 2WD, is it worth to buy and what to look for before buying?
i really cant comment about the 1nz-fe engine specifically as i have not encountered it. Also, im not sure there are rav4's with 1nz-fe from stock, maybe someone did an engine swap?
Wow
Nice v
Hello, I watched all of it and want to try this out. My engine rpms during cold starts jump up and down, so down that the engine slows down, could this be the issue?
It's worth trying, although if it is jumping around wildly while warming up it might not be a mechanical issue with the iacv but an electrical issue with the ecu and iacv communication
@@TheRepairLair this is a video I took today, engine does what it always does at cold starts but this time it stalled. Note I didn’t press gas at all only pushed clutch in and turned on car. ruclips.net/user/shortszK7uW_gy-5I?feature=share
@@TheRepairLair after taking the video I cleaned the maf with maf cleaner and the problem was the same, turned off car, disconnected maf sensor and problem was the same, could it be the iac valve that’s stuck?
@@SBdunks3 If its the same with MAF sensor connected or disconnected, then i suspect the MAF sensor itself is bad - you might want to try getting a replacement MAF sensor first. Stuck IACV would not do this jumping up and down as shown in your video so i'd definitely look into the MAF sensor replacement first.
@@TheRepairLair will do thank you 🙏🏽
What could happen if the coolant hoses are connected the wrong way?
I believe nothing bad would happen. There are no moving parts in the coolant loop, it shouldn't matter which way it flows.
wow
Good day.
I already cleaned my IACV, throttle body and TPS. But still may RPM droppes until my engine dies. This will happen during cold start. But when my engine temperature goes to normal after 5 minutes,, my rpm remains at normal 800rpm.
I don't believe the engine would die when cold due to a bad IACV, but sadly i don't know what could be the cause for this as i haven't ever had such an issue myself. I would like to suggest you check that your butterfly valve is clean, and then inspect the idle stop screw as well as the arm that rests on the stop screw - i might be completely wrong here, but maybe it could be that the idle stop screw or the stop screw arm have worn down, and now the butterfly valve closes completely so the engine gets almost no airflow. Though i don't think this would explain how the engine runs when warm, but doesn't when cold. Worth taking a look though. Please let me know if you find the problem!
@@TheRepairLair
Butterfly valve cleaned. I adjusted idle stop screw. When cold start rpm at 1000. But when warm, may rpm reads at 1500-1800. Near to 2000.
@@rommelrodrigo6146 It almost sounds to me as if the IACV is plugged in backwards, though i don't think it should be possible to plug the connector the wrong way around. Sorry to say but i don't have any other suggestions - the issue is likely elsewhere
@@TheRepairLair
Thank you sir. Anyway i'll check it again.
Tq sir. Why when Cool enjin rpm no idle.. Rpm drop 0.0rpm.. Enjin Hot rpm ok rpm1.. What poblem my car? Plz help me
Sorry I'm not quite sure i understand what you're asking. What is the RPM when cold, and when hot?
@@TheRepairLair meter RPM down to zero.. When Cool..
@@universalstudio7411 so you can start the engine but RPM immediately drops to 0 and engine stops? Does the engine continue working if you were to start the engine while also keeping the accelerator slightly pressed?
If so, you might need to adjust the idle stop screw.
Everywhere I look it says this is a 2.0L engine not a 1.8L, is it still a 1zz?
1ZZ-FE is definitely 1.8L. The 2 liter version is 1AZ-FE
100 bucks says you it didn't really need cleaning. IAC Valve Reset- Warm up vehicle, turn key off, then back on without starting, turn key off, then back on, then to crank(start vehicle), put on parking brake, put in Drive. Let run or drive for 7-8mins. Done. Standard procedure. If that don't work, change IACV.
...or clean it as per this video, because it's bound up with gunk. A reset will be the fix if you've got a software problem and the valve moves freely...and if it's just gunked and easily cleaned, why replace it?
Niceeeeeeeeeeer
You need to buy an inexpensive torx set of tools (bits). Maybe your butterfly stop screw is maladjusted because idles is still above 1k rpms, even warm.
These are 5 point torx which are not typically included in off-the-shelf bit sets. Regarding the RPM's, they only drop to ~800 when fully warmed up. Hope this info helps.
@@TheRepairLair Looking again I got it. You're totally right, sorry for my jump in inconsistency!
excuse me, is it normal if the idle is 1200rpm, just like yours? my car is exactly the same as yours (rav4 1zz A/T)
Or, you have another problem like selenoid idle up behind the air box filter
@@lexwangsby.bryan_bja The normal full-operating temp for 1zz-fe on the rav4 is about 700-800. When i was filming the video it was middle of winter so too cold and not long enough idling to fully warm it up. If your car NEVER idles lower than 1200, then that doesn't sound ok to me, but apart from the IACV and maybe something being stuck in the butterfly valve preventing full closure, i don't know what to suggest to check
@@TheRepairLair okay, i got the point. But the problem must be from throttle body right? Yes its stuck in 1200rpm, never going lower. Oh the weird things, when i start the car, it's in 800rpm. It's like something has reverse it LOL
@@TheRepairLair well anyway, thank you so much for replying me, im Bryan and i'm from Indonesia 🙏, and this car is a rare item 🤭
Rav 4 with a 1.8 litre engine is cursed as haha. In Australia they have 2 litre engine and they perform decently for what they are, i know its not a massive difference but the main thing is the engine in the Australian rav 4s being the 1az fe is actually desgined for cars of its size ie camry etc. The 1zz fe is corrola engine which essentially means its would theortically run the best in a lightweight car, honestly dont know why theres an engine difference in america and Australia but who knows, at least youd get slightly better fuel economy
1zz-fe is very unpopular with rav4s because they only come with fwd rav4s, and there are almost no rav4s with only fwd. Most of the rav4's in UK have either the 1az-fe (2L), or 1cd-ftv (2L diesel).
USA has the 2az-fe which, if i remember correctly, is pretty much exactly the same as 1az-fe but with a longer block (2.4L). But they don't get the diesel (the one in the video isn't mine, mine's the diesel version, and i LOVE it)