2004 owner here. I'm at 300,000 miles. It often gets mistaken for a new car because I have taken care of it and still wax it and the engine runs like it has another 300,000 to go. I love the 1st series, but would also challenge the 04-05 have been rocking it as well. Thank you for the vid.
I own a 2002 rav4 automatic. Purchased it for $4k 5 years ago it had 180k miles on it.put brakes on it spark plugs and tires since.now its at 304k miles now its never broke down. It does use a little oil but its super reliable! I just bought a 2001 rav4 5 speed manual today for $4k 1 its a 1 owner car before me.it drives excellent and handles great! Feels like a 50k mile car....the manual transmission 2nd generation are pretty much bullet proof!
The earlier 2nd gen Rav4s with the 2.0 engine were built like bricks provided you didn't have ECM issues. The AWD system made the 2.0 Rav4 easy on gas and good in the winter snow as well. Aside the from 2.0 engine and AWD Toyota also made the front quarter and door panels out of ABS plastic which cut down on rust problems that the first generation Rav4s had. If you can pick up a earlier 2nd gen 2.0 Rav4 it's a great small SUV that can plow through snow, easy on gas, and is built to last with minimal maintenance. If you are in the market for a second gen Rav4 try and get the Rav4 with the wheel flares as this helps cut down on rust around the wheel wells tremendously. BTW ~ any second gen Rav4 that has 200,000 km and has not had ECM / transmission issues will likely be fine for the remaining life of the Rav4.
I own a third gen 1998 4Runner and a 2003 RAV4. Both are dead nuts reliable the 4Runner is my off-road weekend rig. The RAV4 is my commuter to work I drive 80 miles to work everyday at 80 miles home. I got the RAV4 with 90k miles it's about to turn over 200k this week I have never done anything to the vehicle besides basic oil change tire rotation / new tires and regular fluid checks and maintenance. Never had a single issue
2004-2005 2AZ-FE did not have the oil problem with the rings. Oil change interval should have been no more than 5000 miles even with synthetic. That occurred in 2006. The head bolt problem is related to the cooling - make sure that you keep the coolant at the correct specification, to save the water pump and the engine from overheat. Computer ECU problem was only on the 2001-2003 automatics and was due to mandated change over to lead-free solder. Lead improves vibration resistance in solder: removing it results in solder cracks. Replacement ECU is cheap and fast. These cars go forever if looked after.
my 05 with 2azfe with 200k Km consume 1L of oil every 2500km. I don’t have any coolant problem. Had the fifth gear popping out problem. Right now I have a P0446 code I have to look after.
Purchased a 2005 rav4 in almost mint condition with 140,000 miles . Had it for 2 years so far and only thing I changed was the battery and alternater. Other than that she runs great and no oil leaks. I don't know where this guy gets his info.
I have an 04 RAV4 with 178k miles on it. I bought it almost exactly five years ago with 130k miles for 5 thousand. The only things I’ve had to have done is get new battery and starter because it messed up at about 160k miles. It had rusted and wasn’t making a good connection to start the vehicle. It has a TON of storage space in the back with the seats down. I recently have hauled a kitchen table in it. I’m not planning on getting another car especially because of the wild inflation going on. It’s nice to have a car with no payment. The only thing I don’t like driving it on the interstate at over 65 because it’s not exactly that smooth over that speed. But in town it’s perfect and on the small highways it’s great. I just calculated that I’m still getting 27mpg.
2.0 petrol -04 has been the one for me. No unexpected repairs. Around 400.000km rear wheel bearings need to be changed, they have begun to noise alittle at 370.000km. 4wheel system, automatic transmission and AC work as yesterday.
Oil burning on the 2.4 engine did not start until the 2006 model year when the piston rings were updated. I believe a good indicator of the old; is if the oil engine cap says to use 5w-30 instead of 0w-20.
I had a 2001 Rav4. The transmission wouldn't shift correctly and lost power at times. However, sometimes the transmission would shift fine! We got rid of the car because transmission replacement was around $4K but I wish I would have tried replacing the ECM first. I did love that car!!!!
I'm currently running a seafoam additive to the engine oil to try and clean the pistons. After looking into the cause of failure and what their solution was, it seemed that the problem wasn't actually solved, they simply add more holes which will buy you about another 100k+ miles (the remaining life of the vehicle in some cases) so I looked more into the actual cause of failure. It seems that most modern cars were designed to meet emissions requirements, and one way to do this was to use regular rings rather than high tension. EPA is happy, and cars can be passed and sold. The problem is that depending on how often you do routine maintenance, you can eventually clog these holes in the piston, raising the running temperature above what the engine oil should be at, and creating more carbon build up. It's a snowball effect that only gets worse and gums up the piston rings. I'll update this comment in the next week or two on the status of what I'm doing and how well it works, but so far it seems promising. There's currently no sign of oil consumption and the vehicle has stopped spitting soot from the tail pipe. I believe as long as you catch it early enough, use Mobile 1 oil as that is the recommended oil for Toyota, and then add 1 Oz seafoam for every quart. The Rav4 is a 4 quart engine so add 1/2 a cup of seafoam to the engine with the oil change. I used high mileage seafoam. High mileage Mobile 1 full synthetic. Drive for 300 miles and then change the oil again. If problem persists, you can do another 300 miles with seafoam, however, if the engine continues to consume oil, you may be at a point where seafoam won't be enough to remove the carbon build up. Try this first before you spend money on pistons. It should buy you another 70k miles before it starts happening again, but shouldn't if you start making seafoam additive a routine cleaning process at regular intervals.
@@sebastianromero420 Cheap fixes are cheap for a reason. Maybe if you catch it early on, then it may help, but it's not a long term solution. We're debating whether or not the seafoam causes build up on the catalytic converter, but when you send enough oil through the exhaust, you'll eventually need to replace the cat. We used a lot of seafoam over the span of a year. First sending it through a vacuum line where you get all the smoke from the exhaust, and then adding it in the gas tank about once a month. Eventually the honeycomb in the catalytic converter just fell apart and clogged the exhaust. We're not sure if that's from oil, seafoam, both, or if it was defective from the manufacturer, since it was an aftermarket cat. If the rings are stuck, then the least you'll need to do is pull the piston to remove all the carbon and re-ring it. Or just replace the pistons. Because if the rings are stuck and seafoam doesn't get them unstuck, you'll eventually scar the cylinders, and there's no guarantees that a used replacement engine doesn't already have the same issue. So if you're mechanically inclined, I would move forward with doing the actual work on the pistons. Using too much seafoam may just contribute to other problems.
Only issues I've experienced with my 04 Rav with 230km on the clock is with the manual gear box. Shifter vibrates when in 5th gear. The diff mounts will also be getting replaced soon but that's a wear and tear item. Overall its been a fantastic car so far and I don't plan on selling it. Even when my 2021 Rav4 Hybrid arrives.
2nd gen 04 with the infamous 2.4 with 303000km. Surprisingly little to whine about, the tins above the axel broke and fell on that axel so i ripped them off. Oil is still keeping pretty clean. No oil consumption yet unlike wifes 2.4 avensis with 398000km which takes atleast a liter per thousand km
@@MO-ff8vs The 5th gear doesn't get enough oil if you don't fill it up often, so it breaks. In the beginning it will vibrate, and then it will start popping out by itself. The good news is that it is actually not a hard fix, and you can do it yourself. You will need to buy the bearing, hub sleeve, clutch hub and the gear. It will set you back around 300$. There are many tutorials on youtube telling you how to do this.
We have an 01 RAV4 we bought second-hand from a dealer (lease buy-back IIRC). Only problem was in cold weather the engine rpms would go up and down as if I was revving the engine. Dealer replaced a few bits under extended warranty then later discovered it actually needed reprogramming - which they did online with Japan. First time didn't work because they couldn't get a strong enough connection. That's what they told me anyway, worked fine the second time. Only other problem is check engine light stays on, something to do with the catalytic converter not being inspect. Both the dealer and my local mechanic said don't bother replacing the converter until absolutely necessary because of cost.
I keep having problems with the ball joints. Have replaced them 4 times in 5 years. And the oxygen sensor. But other than that it’s still running great with 270k miles. It’s my daily drive and it still runs and looks good. Really good little suv.
You'll have an issue with your suspension, wheel alignment or tires. Get your struts, shocks and all of your bushes checked out. Also check your tire wear to see if its wearing unevenly.
Does your oxygen sensor make your engine light come on every now and again? Mines been on an off for the last 14 years but still goes through its MOT with it on.
I have a 2003 2 door Rav never failed one MOT from new and runs like a dream at 130k miles on the clock! Dunno where hes got this info but I never heard it anywhere else or experienced it!!! 2003 to 2005 is a brilliant Rav, don't let this nonsense put you off!
@@lisarose4729 I live in UK, high road tax for Rav 4 but I want one and need someone who runs one to tell me high road tax is offset by reliability 👍🏼
excellent detailed review!!! thank you.. as i am considering a 2005 as a beater, but i do not need to spend more money on it after gas and paying for it.
I ask you what type of Toyota Rav4 2000-2014 is suitable for 6000 km in 30 days? And which Toyota has a good horsepower measurement and displacement, like 2L, 3L?
I have a 2005 Rav4 bought it at around 90k as a beater 5 yrs ago. I’ve had one major problem that I can’t resolve after bringing it to two mechanics. After turning it on, there would be times where the car vibrates and the rpm needle decreases slowly and then the car stalls. If I drive it when it has that vibrating issue, it can stall after a full stop. Could this be related to the ecm that you are talking about?
Bought my brand new Rav4 2.0 AT 4x4 in 2004, still running like new after 225000 Kms with routine maintenance every 10000 kms and some minor part replacements...
At 131k miles.. experiencing gas leak from tank.. the main seal has corroded and began to leak, replacing the tank will fix the problem. have not run other issues.
My '05 left front tire started wearing very quickly on the outside edge. Was told by one shop that I needed to replace the whole steering rack. Took for 2nd opinion, was told the (4) bushings holding the steering rack needed replacing, but Toyota does not offer replacement bushings, so force you to replace whole steering rack. Aftermarket set of bushings can be found for $40, getting them replaced next week. Obviously the Toyota dealer will not install the non-OEM bushings, oh well..
I have a 2007 Toyota Camry, I'm pretty sure it also has the 2.4 2AZ-FE engine. I was having the oil issue and I had to top it up like every 600 miles! During the last oil change, I had engine flush fluid run through it and then it went 1500 miles before I needed to top it up. Maybe if I flush it again it will go even further next time!
Owner of a 2003 rav that we passed to our son for HS, he was not a big fan but it still running strong with no issues and only 113000 miles…. It had 79k when he took it over. There has been been talk about a new car but i dont know if I want to get rid of it, its been a tank.
I have a 04 model with transmission issues Probably because of the ecm, I reflow the resistors that causes problems , it helped a lot of problems but still only shift to 3rd gear and if am downhill I can’t climb back in reverse😢
i bought one with a 2002 2.0L D4 engine Manual Transmission, Engine rattles and consumes oil tends to be very hot. I'd like to do an engine replacement, can the 1AZ FE engine fit in this car and should i worry about ECM compatibility issues?
Buy all injectors seals from Toyota, pull injectors, clean them with diesel fuel, clean socket with diesel and mount back with new seals. I had same problem, after procedure above, it's all gone. 2.0 D4D 2004.
skeptic here. just purchased a 2005 rav 4 man with 150k miles. clean. i have done 1 svc including break flush and oil chg. so far so good. i will come back here to keep everyone posted. i am in texas dfw area so i think i can rule out rust as a future issue. never owned a toyota so let's see what everyone is gawking about reliability wise. to be continued...
@@gagansingh55 had a recent oil chg. i havent ckd my oil in months. when i finally did it was still looking good and 3/4 up the dip stick. But i chgd it anyways and gave it a good look over (well a mechanic did). so far so good.il keep you posted
whats wrong with a 2005 2.4l ? i have a 5 spd with a 140k miles and it is a tank. burns a little oil bur it is not anything close to a brand new car. exhaust is 2.5 inch it runs like a bullet no smoke?
I'm in England looking at a 05 2.0 D-4D XT-R. It has 150k miles on with full service history. If anyone knows much about them and can comment that would be much appreciated! I'm happy to maintain well but don't want to buy if it might be a money pit!
@Uncle Gilbert thats the 2.2 diesel that if not maintained regular had the carbon stamping issue causing head and even engine failure the 2.0 on the 2005 model is bullet proof , same as in avensis of the age etc. scv valves maybey catch you out once in every 150k miles but they are £120 for the both and diy fit so if you start losing power then its worth the spend changing these
Easy fix for the oil consumption, my 99 did the same, pull all 4 plugs, pour down Seafoam, let it soak overnight. Next morning spin it without the plugs, replace the oil, put back old plugs, go for a good drive, it will smoke and finally, change the plugs. Should be good by then.
I have a 2002 1.8VVTI petrol 2 Wheel Drive Rav4 NV with only 73,600miles from new, it runs like a clock, I am 2nd owner, replaced fuel tank and rear coil springs in past 5 years, other than that, it`s just the usual service parts. Great car apart from the tiny boot, but stick the seat s down if you really need to. Still has the cassette player-lol
Got a 2001 RAV4, everything is fine until it gets cold, won't start....turns over but won't catch. All good when warm. I've changed the coolant temperature sensor. Any suggestions or similar problems? Thanks.
Looking to buy a rav4 in Europe. But it seems we still got the 1-AZ-FE engine untill 2006? So is there any reason for us to not go for the later models?
No reason I know of. The automatic transmission had problems due to the control electronics, obviously the manual transmission versions didn't have that problem. The larger 2.4 2AZ-FE engine could develop chronic oil burning due to a piston ring design issue. The 2.0l 1AZ engine is a very reliable engine if you stay on top of routine maintenance. Change oil regularly, keep an eye on the engine temperature, oil and coolant levels. If the engine overheats, the relatively small head bolts can seize badly and female threads in the aluminium block can strip out.
@@Beesa10hello when you're talking about the 1az engine, there are two. The 1azfe and the 1azfse. Which one is more reliable please? I'm about to buy a rav4. 2 and I have to choose between these two engines. Thanks
@@watching88football Hello, I don't know the answer to that, I just know that later iterations of the engine had a chronic oil burning issue. 1AZ-FE was reliable for me.
IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE 5TH GEAR VIBRATING OR POPPING OUT LOOK BELOW: The 5th gear doesn't get enough oil if you don't fill it up often, so it breaks. In the beginning it will vibrate, and then it will start popping out by itself. The good news is that it is actually not a hard fix, and you can do it yourself. You will need to buy the bearing, hub sleeve, clutch hub and the gear. It will set you back around 300$. There are many tutorials on youtube telling you how to do this.
first thing I would look at is the catalytic converter is your check engine light on ?? what happens is the top two air/fuel ratio sensors my appear like O2 sensors but are not the O2 sensors are the two underneath the top 2 what happens is the internal heater in the air/fuel sensors fail at anywhere from 120.000 to 160.000. now if it is this an OBD2 tool will tell you now for the problem the air/fuel ratio sensors since they are no longer heating up to there normal 1.200 degree normal default temperature it doesn't heat up at all this causes a to rich condition so now when the fuel injectors squirt gas into the head it does not get burned up or no internal combustion explosion this unbearnt gas then is dumped into catalytic converter eventually clogging up tje entire exhaustnsystem and it has probably been happenung for a while people tend to ignore it nokw more bad news you may go on ebay and see 4 sensors for your car that install INTO your catalytic converter there will be 2 air/ the top 2 and 2 O2 the bottom 2 the clip that the new one installs into is specific to that sensor so you can't mess up and install on wrong side the OEM AIR/FUEL SENSORS ARE MADE BY DENSO AND COST ABOUT A 120 BUCKS A SIDE SO 240NFOR BOTH OLUS THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER YOU CAN CHEAP OUT A LITTLE HERE WELL ACTUALLY YOU HAVE NO CHOICE AN ORIGINAL TOYOTA CATALYTIC CONVERTER IS APPROXIMATELY 1.500 DOLLARS A FEW HIGH END AFTERMARKET ARE ABOUT 700 HUNDRED SUCH as a walker or a magnaflow just get one for a bout 175 bucks and it will work and then the mechanic will want about 120 bucks to install it muffler shops usually won't do them places such as KOST OR MIDAS PR ANY CHAIN SINCE IF THEY BREAK OFF AN EXHAUST MANIFOLD BOLT WHICH IS NOT TO COMMON BUT DOES HAPPEN IF HE USES PENETRATION FLUID THEN HEATS UP AROUND THE HOLE THE BOKT THREADS INTO IT SHOULD COME OUT DONT HEAT UP THE BOLT THIS ACTUALLY CAUSES IT TO EXPAND AND MAKES MATTERS WORSE THE TWO O2 SENSORS JUST GET A FAIRLY INEXPENSIVE BRAND THERE NOT NEARY AS Important
I don’t know if someone’s experiencing the same But mine wont stay running it shuts off when’s on 1000rpm but always restart Please help me I replaced oxygen sensors but still does the same 120k miles
nothing but problems with my toyota, but they're mainly because of rust and suspension issues, which is inevitable and not the cars fault. bulletproof engine and transmission, and i will most likely drive it until the rear suspension collapses, or get another rav.
2011 with the 4 cylinder. 175,000 miles and not one single repair not even a light bulb. 25 mpg. I wish it was quicker but I'll trade quick for reliable any day with a daily driver. When fast is my goal I roll out the 1969 Nova SS with the 396 and factory Hurst 4 speed. One is sedate, the other is just dangerous. Like having a good wife and crazy girlfriend.
@@K2Guccii Oh yeah it sure will, just do the repairs as they come up which are very rare and you got it. No worries. I also do 2 tanks of premium for every 6 to 8 tanks of regular, that way it cleans out the injectors and keeps everything clean
@@timsutherland4033 thks for the info. I decided not to go with a rav4 anymore. Some has transmission issues that i will not want to deal with. I decided to go with something used but newer. Maybe a vitara 1.6l allgrip
@@timsutherland4033 Lighter weight = better mpg, cheaper road tax, not dragging unused 4x4 diff in road use, not so pointless really, oh cheaper insurance also
@@jellybaby7 this! I have the 1.8 and I'm more than happy with it. Having a tall car is useful in the city with all the speedbumps we have and since I won't do off-road with it I don't really mind not having the AWD in fact that would make me spend more money in gasoline...
I got a 2001 rav4 L almost 2 years ago and put 50k miles and has over 200,000 miles and it's been fantastic supper practical, only thing if you get the 4 speed automatic and gets its about 23 mpg everywhere, isn't a deal breaker but the
heres a perspective from another part of the world ( scotland) my wife uses a 2005 rav4 with 2.0 d4d its the 1cd-ftv engine . very reliable diesel , only rust will kill it. weve only got 103k miles on it clutch / flywheel / tbelt , pulleys and wpump at 85k. it got a new manual gearbox 5th gear as these are prone to shear teeth . oh and renewed the fuel filler neck as the road dirt / salt collects behind the splash shield and rots them through. 90k all brake calipers replaced as starting to seize and bind on wheels.and did a noisy wheel bearing. 2 years ago for the annual test replaced centre shaft bearing / bush rubber carrier. and rear shocks last years mot some brake pipes, this years mot annual test needs front sub frame and changing front shock absorbers as an advisory. before nexts years annual test i hope to refurb the back axle subframe and rods before they get past the point of no return. man they control arm bolts seize to the bushings
@@CorvetteLife Yep I bought my 2005 because I did my research and found out the V6 was the worst ever made thats why they went back to the 2.4L lol mine doesn't burn or drip a single thing after almost 200k
I have 2004 2.0 D4D. Its greatest car I had. Dual mass flywheel needed to be replaced with single mass, besides that. Great. 170k miles and still pulls like train.
Another non mechanic who just copy’s what many others real mechanics and vehicle owners have said about a vehicle. There’s a dime a dozen of these types, but at least I feel safe on this forgers site because it’s a safe space.
@@MR.ESLAM20 Mine has 204,000 miles. It burns a little oil so I have to check that often. The awd is good in snow. It gets pretty good gas mileage. I like it.
2004 owner here. I'm at 300,000 miles. It often gets mistaken for a new car because I have taken care of it and still wax it and the engine runs like it has another 300,000 to go. I love the 1st series, but would also challenge the 04-05 have been rocking it as well. Thank you for the vid.
Manual
mine (04 model) recently reach 300k miles and it's automatic. Love the car so much!
@@LaurelBelleW Can you please tell me if you had any major or costly repairs done over the years ?
I own a 2002 rav4 automatic. Purchased it for $4k 5 years ago it had 180k miles on it.put brakes on it spark plugs and tires since.now its at 304k miles now its never broke down. It does use a little oil but its super reliable! I just bought a 2001 rav4 5 speed manual today for $4k 1 its a 1 owner car before me.it drives excellent and handles great! Feels like a 50k mile car....the manual transmission 2nd generation are pretty much bullet proof!
@@DoorDashDuo 5th gear problems are common but maybey thats just the diesel engines torque along with dmf
The earlier 2nd gen Rav4s with the 2.0 engine were built like bricks provided you didn't have ECM issues. The AWD system made the 2.0 Rav4 easy on gas and good in the winter snow as well. Aside the from 2.0 engine and AWD Toyota also made the front quarter and door panels out of ABS plastic which cut down on rust problems that the first generation Rav4s had. If you can pick up a earlier 2nd gen 2.0 Rav4 it's a great small SUV that can plow through snow, easy on gas, and is built to last with minimal maintenance. If you are in the market for a second gen Rav4 try and get the Rav4 with the wheel flares as this helps cut down on rust around the wheel wells tremendously. BTW ~ any second gen Rav4 that has 200,000 km and has not had ECM / transmission issues will likely be fine for the remaining life of the Rav4.
17 years and 200,00 miles, still running like a Swiss Watch. Just tires, batteries, & oil changes when light comes on.
I have a 2004 model 340000 and still going strong 💪
I own a third gen 1998 4Runner and a 2003 RAV4. Both are dead nuts reliable the 4Runner is my off-road weekend rig. The RAV4 is my commuter to work I drive 80 miles to work everyday at 80 miles home. I got the RAV4 with 90k miles it's about to turn over 200k this week I have never done anything to the vehicle besides basic oil change tire rotation / new tires and regular fluid checks and maintenance. Never had a single issue
2004-2005 2AZ-FE did not have the oil problem with the rings. Oil change interval should have been no more than 5000 miles even with synthetic. That occurred in 2006. The head bolt problem is related to the cooling - make sure that you keep the coolant at the correct specification, to save the water pump and the engine from overheat. Computer ECU problem was only on the 2001-2003 automatics and was due to mandated change over to lead-free solder. Lead improves vibration resistance in solder: removing it results in solder cracks. Replacement ECU is cheap and fast. These cars go forever if looked after.
ACORDING TO YOU, FROM MEXICO
my 05 with 2azfe with 200k Km consume 1L of oil every 2500km. I don’t have any coolant problem. Had the fifth gear popping out problem. Right now I have a P0446 code I have to look after.
Purchased a 2005 rav4 in almost mint condition with 140,000 miles . Had it for 2 years so far and only thing I changed was the battery and alternater. Other than that she runs great and no oil leaks. I don't know where this guy gets his info.
I have an 04 RAV4 with 178k miles on it. I bought it almost exactly five years ago with 130k miles for 5 thousand. The only things I’ve had to have done is get new battery and starter because it messed up at about 160k miles. It had rusted and wasn’t making a good connection to start the vehicle. It has a TON of storage space in the back with the seats down. I recently have hauled a kitchen table in it. I’m not planning on getting another car especially because of the wild inflation going on. It’s nice to have a car with no payment. The only thing I don’t like driving it on the interstate at over 65 because it’s not exactly that smooth over that speed. But in town it’s perfect and on the small highways it’s great. I just calculated that I’m still getting 27mpg.
I am very glad I watched this video. Thanks for spotlighting some things to look out for
2.0 petrol -04 has been the one for me. No unexpected repairs. Around 400.000km rear wheel bearings need to be changed, they have begun to noise alittle at 370.000km. 4wheel system, automatic transmission and AC work as yesterday.
Merry Christmas! Thanks for the entertainment all year long! 🎄
Tara
Oil burning on the 2.4 engine did not start until the 2006 model year when the piston rings were updated. I believe a good indicator of the old; is if the oil engine cap says to use 5w-30 instead of 0w-20.
I had a 2001 Rav4. The transmission wouldn't shift correctly and lost power at times. However, sometimes the transmission would shift fine! We got rid of the car because transmission replacement was around $4K but I wish I would have tried replacing the ECM first. I did love that car!!!!
Probably 100% would have fixed the issue, sadly.
I'm currently running a seafoam additive to the engine oil to try and clean the pistons.
After looking into the cause of failure and what their solution was, it seemed that the problem wasn't actually solved, they simply add more holes which will buy you about another 100k+ miles (the remaining life of the vehicle in some cases) so I looked more into the actual cause of failure.
It seems that most modern cars were designed to meet emissions requirements, and one way to do this was to use regular rings rather than high tension. EPA is happy, and cars can be passed and sold. The problem is that depending on how often you do routine maintenance, you can eventually clog these holes in the piston, raising the running temperature above what the engine oil should be at, and creating more carbon build up. It's a snowball effect that only gets worse and gums up the piston rings.
I'll update this comment in the next week or two on the status of what I'm doing and how well it works, but so far it seems promising. There's currently no sign of oil consumption and the vehicle has stopped spitting soot from the tail pipe.
I believe as long as you catch it early enough, use Mobile 1 oil as that is the recommended oil for Toyota, and then add 1 Oz seafoam for every quart.
The Rav4 is a 4 quart engine so add 1/2 a cup of seafoam to the engine with the oil change.
I used high mileage seafoam. High mileage Mobile 1 full synthetic. Drive for 300 miles and then change the oil again.
If problem persists, you can do another 300 miles with seafoam, however, if the engine continues to consume oil, you may be at a point where seafoam won't be enough to remove the carbon build up.
Try this first before you spend money on pistons. It should buy you another 70k miles before it starts happening again, but shouldn't if you start making seafoam additive a routine cleaning process at regular intervals.
Any updates?
@@sebastianromero420 Cheap fixes are cheap for a reason. Maybe if you catch it early on, then it may help, but it's not a long term solution.
We're debating whether or not the seafoam causes build up on the catalytic converter, but when you send enough oil through the exhaust, you'll eventually need to replace the cat.
We used a lot of seafoam over the span of a year. First sending it through a vacuum line where you get all the smoke from the exhaust, and then adding it in the gas tank about once a month.
Eventually the honeycomb in the catalytic converter just fell apart and clogged the exhaust.
We're not sure if that's from oil, seafoam, both, or if it was defective from the manufacturer, since it was an aftermarket cat.
If the rings are stuck, then the least you'll need to do is pull the piston to remove all the carbon and re-ring it. Or just replace the pistons. Because if the rings are stuck and seafoam doesn't get them unstuck, you'll eventually scar the cylinders, and there's no guarantees that a used replacement engine doesn't already have the same issue.
So if you're mechanically inclined, I would move forward with doing the actual work on the pistons.
Using too much seafoam may just contribute to other problems.
Great content Chris...merry Christmas to you
Merry Christmas 🎄
Only issues I've experienced with my 04 Rav with 230km on the clock is with the manual gear box. Shifter vibrates when in 5th gear. The diff mounts will also be getting replaced soon but that's a wear and tear item. Overall its been a fantastic car so far and I don't plan on selling it. Even when my 2021 Rav4 Hybrid arrives.
I bought my 05 recently and shifter vibrates in 5th too, ever find out why that happens?
@@yxnglamppost3538have you find why? I have same problem😅
@@MO-ff8vs No
2nd gen 04 with the infamous 2.4 with 303000km. Surprisingly little to whine about, the tins above the axel broke and fell on that axel so i ripped them off. Oil is still keeping pretty clean. No oil consumption yet unlike wifes 2.4 avensis with 398000km which takes atleast a liter per thousand km
@@MO-ff8vs The 5th gear doesn't get enough oil if you don't fill it up often, so it breaks. In the beginning it will vibrate, and then it will start popping out by itself. The good news is that it is actually not a hard fix, and you can do it yourself. You will need to buy the bearing, hub sleeve, clutch hub and the gear. It will set you back around 300$. There are many tutorials on youtube telling you how to do this.
We have an 01 RAV4 we bought second-hand from a dealer (lease buy-back IIRC). Only problem was in cold weather the engine rpms would go up and down as if I was revving the engine. Dealer replaced a few bits under extended warranty then later discovered it actually needed reprogramming - which they did online with Japan. First time didn't work because they couldn't get a strong enough connection. That's what they told me anyway, worked fine the second time. Only other problem is check engine light stays on, something to do with the catalytic converter not being inspect. Both the dealer and my local mechanic said don't bother replacing the converter until absolutely necessary because of cost.
I keep having problems with the ball joints. Have replaced them 4 times in 5 years. And the oxygen sensor. But other than that it’s still running great with 270k miles. It’s my daily drive and it still runs and looks good. Really good little suv.
You'll have an issue with your suspension, wheel alignment or tires. Get your struts, shocks and all of your bushes checked out. Also check your tire wear to see if its wearing unevenly.
Does your oxygen sensor make your engine light come on every now and again? Mines been on an off for the last 14 years but still goes through its MOT with it on.
When I was driving my RAV, every time it brakes, you hear a little click sound and my father told me it could be the ball joints
I have a 2003 2 door Rav never failed one MOT from new and runs like a dream at 130k miles on the clock! Dunno where hes got this info but I never heard it anywhere else or experienced it!!! 2003 to 2005 is a brilliant Rav, don't let this nonsense put you off!
Is it awd?
@@eduardomendoza2769 Yes
How much would you sell it for? And what state are you in?
@@eduardomendoza2769 I’m in the UK and it’s not for sale
@@lisarose4729 I live in UK, high road tax for Rav 4 but I want one and need someone who runs one to tell me high road tax is offset by reliability 👍🏼
Good info. Looks like I'll try to find an 01-03
Best vehicle i ever owned. Very reliable and powerful 👏 🙌
Powerful. Do they go with only 150 HP?
@mr.2cents.846 yess they go very well and it is lightweight so a 150hp is really good
excellent detailed review!!! thank you.. as i am considering a 2005 as a beater, but i do not need to spend more money on it after gas and paying for it.
2004 Rav4 automatic 4WD owner hear. Love this car.Still have a 2004 Solara!
I am getting 04 Rav limited for 5500 CDN tomorrow definitely excited because my old car was 02 corolla lol
Thank you for making this videos im actually looking to buy my first car
I wish you luck my friend. Be patient and you’ll find a good deal
@ The car Angel says the contrary. Stay away from 2001 - 2003 models because of the faulty ecm and go for 2004 and 2005 models.
The ecm is easy and cheap to replace
Thats only for auto transmission mate.
I ask you what type of Toyota Rav4 2000-2014 is suitable for 6000 km in 30 days? And which Toyota has a good horsepower measurement and displacement, like 2L, 3L?
I've just bought one is everyone's steering really vague or is that just mine also clutch seems close to floor but doesn't slip
I have a 2005 Rav4 bought it at around 90k as a beater 5 yrs ago. I’ve had one major problem that I can’t resolve after bringing it to two mechanics. After turning it on, there would be times where the car vibrates and the rpm needle decreases slowly and then the car stalls. If I drive it when it has that vibrating issue, it can stall after a full stop. Could this be related to the ecm that you are talking about?
I have D4D 2005 2.0 keeps throwing cam sensor code I've changed it and it's still doing it help car wont rev.
It may be difficult to find a mechanic that wants to use that kit. At least for me in my area.
Bought my brand new Rav4 2.0 AT 4x4 in 2004, still running like new after 225000 Kms with routine maintenance every 10000 kms and some minor part replacements...
At 131k miles.. experiencing gas leak from tank.. the main seal has corroded and began to leak, replacing the tank will fix the problem. have not run other issues.
My '05 left front tire started wearing very quickly on the outside edge. Was told by one shop that I needed to replace the whole steering rack. Took for 2nd opinion, was told the (4) bushings holding the steering rack needed replacing, but Toyota does not offer replacement bushings, so force you to replace whole steering rack. Aftermarket set of bushings can be found for $40, getting them replaced next week. Obviously the Toyota dealer will not install the non-OEM bushings, oh well..
Save tons of money going to a private mechanic. Glad you are getting it figured out 🙏
Mine here has 380k miles and still running as new
I have a 2007 Toyota Camry, I'm pretty sure it also has the 2.4 2AZ-FE engine.
I was having the oil issue and I had to top it up like every 600 miles!
During the last oil change, I had engine flush fluid run through it and then it went 1500 miles before
I needed to top it up. Maybe if I flush it again it will go even further next time!
Owner of a 2003 rav that we passed to our son for HS, he was not a big fan but it still running strong with no issues and only 113000 miles…. It had 79k when he took it over. There has been been talk about a new car but i dont know if I want to get rid of it, its been a tank.
As a young fella, I wouldn’t have liked it either, however, as I aged I have learned to really respect and love it. Great littler car
thinking of buying a 02 rav4 for 7000 with 139000 miles i have a 96 camry but i need to upgrade is this a decent price for the mileage
I have a 04 model with transmission issues Probably because of the ecm, I reflow the resistors that causes problems , it helped a lot of problems but still only shift to 3rd gear and if am downhill I can’t climb back in reverse😢
so a rav4 05 with a 1.8L engine should be ok?
Hello I'm after watching your video I noticed you didn't talk about th 1az fse(D4) engine of the rav4 gen 2
A lot (if not all) VVT-i engines drink some oil when you pass 300.000 Kms (Prius II, Prius III, some Rav4, Avensis...)
i bought one with a 2002 2.0L D4 engine Manual Transmission, Engine rattles and consumes oil tends to be very hot. I'd like to do an engine replacement, can the 1AZ FE engine fit in this car and should i worry about ECM compatibility issues?
Buy all injectors seals from Toyota, pull injectors, clean them with diesel fuel, clean socket with diesel and mount back with new seals.
I had same problem, after procedure above, it's all gone. 2.0 D4D 2004.
The ecm doesn't give issues. It a lie
jayemmmm bought a 3 door 05 vtr trim that has 2.0l motor in it ?
skeptic here. just purchased a 2005 rav 4 man with 150k miles. clean. i have done 1 svc including break flush and oil chg. so far so good. i will come back here to keep everyone posted. i am in texas dfw area so i think i can rule out rust as a future issue. never owned a toyota so let's see what everyone is gawking about reliability wise. to be continued...
How's the Rav4 going ? Which engine do you have .
@@rossgoodwin2700 2.4 L 4-cylinder 161 hp 5 spd man
How’s it going so far?
@@gagansingh55 had a recent oil chg. i havent ckd my oil in months. when i finally did it was still looking good and 3/4 up the dip stick. But i chgd it anyways and gave it a good look over (well a mechanic did). so far so good.il keep you posted
This is true with every car!!! pshh i worked for Toyota for over 25 years and I maybe saw 1 rav with this issue!! please!
Your experience out weighs all others.
whats wrong with a 2005 2.4l ? i have a 5 spd with a 140k miles and it is a tank. burns a little oil bur it is not anything close to a brand new car. exhaust is 2.5 inch it runs like a bullet no smoke?
yes I have the 2005 model sport 5 speed. never misses a beat. goes through no oil or water. 245k klms on the clock.
I'm in England looking at a 05 2.0 D-4D XT-R. It has 150k miles on with full service history. If anyone knows much about them and can comment that would be much appreciated! I'm happy to maintain well but don't want to buy if it might be a money pit!
@Uncle Gilbert thats the 2.2 diesel that if not maintained regular had the carbon stamping issue causing head and even engine failure the 2.0 on the 2005 model is bullet proof , same as in avensis of the age etc. scv valves maybey catch you out once in every 150k miles but they are £120 for the both and diy fit so if you start losing power then its worth the spend changing these
Easy fix for the oil consumption, my 99 did the same, pull all 4 plugs, pour down Seafoam, let it soak overnight. Next morning spin it without the plugs, replace the oil, put back old plugs, go for a good drive, it will smoke and finally, change the plugs. Should be good by then.
I have a 2002 1.8VVTI petrol 2 Wheel Drive Rav4 NV with only 73,600miles from new, it runs like a clock, I am 2nd owner, replaced fuel tank and rear coil springs in past 5 years, other than that, it`s just the usual service parts. Great car apart from the tiny boot, but stick the seat s down if you really need to. Still has the cassette player-lol
I'm in Aus going to get either a RAV4 or CRV and make it a tourer / work horse
Rav4 over the CRV hands down :)
CRV For the K24.
Hey Levro, I'm in the same boat in Aus. Which did you end up getting?
Got a 2001 RAV4, everything is fine until it gets cold, won't start....turns over but won't catch. All good when warm. I've changed the coolant temperature sensor. Any suggestions or similar problems? Thanks.
Might be silly, but have you checked your battery and it’s connections?
Scotty Kilmer talks about it. I 4got what he said but it’s an easy fix. Don’t get rid of the car
Blockwarmer helps a lot
I have two rav4 one 2001 and other 2003 both have issues in transmission ECU .. but still running solid
Love your name 😂😂
Automatic transmission?
Auto?
@@AutoMotivate
Thanks bro .. actually this name is arabic which means a cunning fox😹
@@dragossabin8265
yep automatic ✌️😋
Looking to buy a rav4 in Europe. But it seems we still got the 1-AZ-FE engine untill 2006? So is there any reason for us to not go for the later models?
No reason I know of. The automatic transmission had problems due to the control electronics, obviously the manual transmission versions didn't have that problem. The larger 2.4 2AZ-FE engine could develop chronic oil burning due to a piston ring design issue. The 2.0l 1AZ engine is a very reliable engine if you stay on top of routine maintenance. Change oil regularly, keep an eye on the engine temperature, oil and coolant levels. If the engine overheats, the relatively small head bolts can seize badly and female threads in the aluminium block can strip out.
@@Beesa10hello when you're talking about the 1az engine, there are two. The 1azfe and the 1azfse. Which one is more reliable please? I'm about to buy a rav4. 2 and I have to choose between these two engines. Thanks
@@watching88football Hello, I don't know the answer to that, I just know that later iterations of the engine had a chronic oil burning issue. 1AZ-FE was reliable for me.
IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE 5TH GEAR VIBRATING OR POPPING OUT LOOK BELOW:
The 5th gear doesn't get enough oil if you don't fill it up often, so it breaks. In the beginning it will vibrate, and then it will start popping out by itself. The good news is that it is actually not a hard fix, and you can do it yourself. You will need to buy the bearing, hub sleeve, clutch hub and the gear. It will set you back around 300$. There are many tutorials on youtube telling you how to do this.
My rav4 2004 only needs some brakes and I have 999,500 kmh/s and it is amazing 🙂
1 mil km!! Thats insane
What do you all get for Gas Mileage? I always wonder what real world reports are with lots of mileage on them now that they arent new. Thanks
26 MPG (Imperial gallons) for a 2001 RAV4
I prefer the honda cr-v as i don't really need ac in an mostly colder environment
What causes the 2002 feel like the cars not pulling forward and no power from full stops
That sounds like the ECM issue. Here is some info on it, qcwo.com/technicaldomain/harsh-shifting-problems-on-toyota-rav-automatic-transmission/
first thing I would look at is the catalytic converter is your check engine light on ?? what happens is the top two air/fuel ratio sensors my appear like O2 sensors but are not the O2 sensors are the two underneath the top 2 what happens is the internal heater in the air/fuel sensors fail at anywhere from 120.000 to 160.000. now if it is this an OBD2 tool will tell you now for the problem the air/fuel ratio sensors since they are no longer heating up to there normal 1.200 degree normal default temperature it doesn't heat up at all this causes a to rich condition so now when the fuel injectors squirt gas into the head it does not get burned up or no internal combustion explosion this unbearnt gas then is dumped into catalytic converter eventually clogging up tje entire exhaustnsystem and it has probably been happenung for a while people tend to ignore it nokw more bad news you may go on ebay and see 4 sensors for your car that install
INTO your catalytic converter there will be 2 air/ the top 2 and 2 O2 the bottom 2 the clip that the new one installs into is specific to that sensor so you can't mess up and install on wrong side the OEM AIR/FUEL SENSORS ARE MADE BY DENSO AND COST ABOUT A 120 BUCKS A SIDE SO 240NFOR BOTH OLUS THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER YOU CAN CHEAP OUT A LITTLE HERE WELL ACTUALLY YOU HAVE NO CHOICE AN ORIGINAL TOYOTA CATALYTIC CONVERTER IS APPROXIMATELY 1.500 DOLLARS A FEW HIGH END AFTERMARKET ARE ABOUT 700 HUNDRED SUCH as a walker or a magnaflow just get one for a bout 175 bucks and it will work and then the mechanic will want about 120 bucks to install it muffler shops usually won't do them places such as KOST OR MIDAS PR ANY CHAIN SINCE IF THEY BREAK OFF AN EXHAUST MANIFOLD BOLT WHICH IS NOT TO COMMON BUT DOES HAPPEN IF HE USES PENETRATION FLUID THEN HEATS UP AROUND THE HOLE THE BOKT THREADS INTO IT SHOULD COME OUT DONT HEAT UP THE BOLT THIS ACTUALLY CAUSES IT TO EXPAND AND MAKES MATTERS WORSE THE TWO O2 SENSORS JUST GET A FAIRLY INEXPENSIVE BRAND THERE NOT NEARY AS Important
I don’t know if someone’s experiencing the same
But mine wont stay running it shuts off when’s on 1000rpm but always restart
Please help me
I replaced oxygen sensors but still does the same
120k miles
Oxygen sensor would not be the issue.
I would check your fuel pressure. Look up a video and buy a fuel pressure kit off of Amazon.
I’m thinking about buying a 2003 rav 4 automatic, opinions?
Get it
I have one, no issues and it’s pretty reliable! If anybodies reading this now
I have exactly that in a cruiser & it has 240k on it & so far no problems whatsoever: but it’s been looked after & I paid 5.500 K for it :
Go for manual if you can
Where did u get ur front grill bar
Amazon
nothing but problems with my toyota, but they're mainly because of rust and suspension issues, which is inevitable and not the cars fault. bulletproof engine and transmission, and i will most likely drive it until the rear suspension collapses, or get another rav.
2011 with the 4 cylinder. 175,000 miles and not one single repair not even a light bulb. 25 mpg. I wish it was quicker but I'll trade quick for reliable any day with a daily driver. When fast is my goal I roll out the 1969 Nova SS with the 396 and factory Hurst 4 speed. One is sedate, the other is just dangerous. Like having a good wife and crazy girlfriend.
i cant understand a word you're saying the audio is muffled
What was the point of including 01-05 in the title if you only talked about 01-03
@@K2Guccii I have an 05 with 195K and its amazing
@@unclestinkyflips1130 That’s great to hear, my 05 is at 110k currently and I was hoping it’ll stick with me through college
@@K2Guccii Oh yeah it sure will, just do the repairs as they come up which are very rare and you got it. No worries. I also do 2 tanks of premium for every 6 to 8 tanks of regular, that way it cleans out the injectors and keeps everything clean
@@unclestinkyflips1130 Thanks for the info! I would consider treating her with premium but gas prices here in Cali ain’t no joke 😂
@@unclestinkyflips1130 I got an 05 with 193k miles, still running good. Just replaced the charcoal canister.
thinking about getting one of these with 300K KMs on it, 6000 ish
2003 rav4 here. Transmission started slipping and left me stranded on a few occasions. Dealer wanted 4500 to replace 🤦♂️
Well your going to a dealer, what do you expect is gonna happen? its gonna be cheap? Lol
Why dealer? They are rats I hope people will learn that dealer is not the best place to take your car, money wise and quality…
Any info on the 2002 rav4 with the 1.8 1zz engine?
The Completely pointless variant
@@timsutherland4033 thks for the info. I decided not to go with a rav4 anymore. Some has transmission issues that i will not want to deal with. I decided to go with something used but newer. Maybe a vitara 1.6l allgrip
@@timsutherland4033 Lighter weight = better mpg, cheaper road tax, not dragging unused 4x4 diff in road use, not so pointless really, oh cheaper insurance also
costs pennies to insure and tax a 2.0 4wd . Spend 650 all in for one .
@@jellybaby7 this! I have the 1.8 and I'm more than happy with it. Having a tall car is useful in the city with all the speedbumps we have and since I won't do off-road with it I don't really mind not having the AWD in fact that would make me spend more money in gasoline...
I got a 2001 rav4 L almost 2 years ago and put 50k miles and has over 200,000 miles and it's been fantastic supper practical, only thing if you get the 4 speed automatic and gets its about 23 mpg everywhere, isn't a deal breaker but the
23 mph? thats slow as hell lol, are you sure you don't mean MPG?
@@5_twenty yea mpg lol
@@chadhansen505723 is a godsend to me, my truck gets 8
Rav4 goes 1.000.000KM without failure easily
My first bnew car and a gift from my mom
My dad had a 1zz-fe RAV4, he didint service ANYTHING, for 6 years, not even the engine oil, during the 7 year ownership, only the belt failed
Impossible. The 1zz sips oil like its nothing
So what you’re saying is I have to pull the engine and rebuild it? Lol
heres a perspective from another part of the world ( scotland) my wife uses a 2005 rav4 with 2.0 d4d its the 1cd-ftv engine . very reliable diesel , only rust will kill it.
weve only got 103k miles on it
clutch / flywheel / tbelt , pulleys and wpump at 85k. it got a new manual gearbox 5th gear as these are prone to shear teeth . oh and renewed the fuel filler neck as the road dirt / salt collects behind the splash shield and rots them through.
90k all brake calipers replaced as starting to seize and bind on wheels.and did a noisy wheel bearing.
2 years ago for the annual test replaced centre shaft bearing / bush rubber carrier. and rear shocks
last years mot some brake pipes,
this years mot annual test needs front sub frame and changing front shock absorbers as an advisory.
before nexts years annual test i hope to refurb the back axle subframe and rods before they get past the point of no return.
man they control arm bolts seize to the bushings
I've got an '04 with 276,000 mi and she drinks oil like you wouldn't believe😂
What's wrong with the 04-05 models???
I have a 2005 and it's minty with 195k best vehicle ever, I dont even need to plug it in till it gets to -30 C
@@CorvetteLife Yep I bought my 2005 because I did my research and found out the V6 was the worst ever made thats why they went back to the 2.4L lol mine doesn't burn or drip a single thing after almost 200k
I have 2004 2.0 D4D. Its greatest car I had. Dual mass flywheel needed to be replaced with single mass, besides that. Great. 170k miles and still pulls like train.
After all the issues you listed, no sure you can can it a "very reliable car".
Every car, especially if they are older, has issues.
2003 TOYOTA RAV4!!!
Since 2002 a RAV4. No big problems at all! Humbug vid.
Not humbug dude. Some cars never have major issues and some are complete lemons. Really depends on the car.
Rav💪💪💪
Another non mechanic who just copy’s what many others real mechanics and vehicle owners have said about a vehicle. There’s a dime a dozen of these types, but at least I feel safe on this forgers site because it’s a safe space.
How else do you find out issues with a car? Magic>? I do work on cars, btw.
Bruh I just got a 2004 rav4 with a 2.4 i4 🤦🏻♂️
How did it go? because I'm going to buy one same model
@dallas delano
@@MR.ESLAM20 Mine has 204,000 miles. It burns a little oil so I have to check that often. The awd is good in snow. It gets pretty good gas mileage. I like it.
Thank you for replying, appreciate it
They don’t have this problem that he mentions in 2004. That’s an extremely reliable car. Look at Videos from your car angel he explains everything
You forgot about horrible gas mileage 20 mpg might as well run it off a cliff
I hate this car, I’d rather just drive a Camry or a civic, less problems
Articule sacrements comprend rien à ce que tu dit 😟
It is in English..
No subtitles?
Je viens de mettre à jour la vidéo avec des sous-titres français
Lots of misinformation here
Explain?
Got 03 rav 4 awd shit slide
And the mecanic wizad thinks toyota dont fail lol
All cars fail
Your speech is impossible to understand.
Garbage😂
Speech impediment
You are correct!
@@AutoMotivate can you hire a voice actor to read the script?
@@speakbigtruth9383 Why would I do that? We should all encourage diversity and inclusivity instead of pushing out people who are different.
@@AutoMotivate Why should we encourage diversity and inclusivity? Listening to your speech impediment instantly makes me want to change the channel.
@@speakbigtruth9383 Then change the channel buddy.