I have some issue with clicking sound near wheels like under the car. I am not a mechanic but I think it’s those sway bars you mentioned or is it axels ?
I have a 2007 Rav 4. I have been blessed to have over 280,000 miles. I have had the ignition coil issue and the burning oil as well. Toyota basically rebuilt the motor about 5 years ago because of it. I love mine but know time is getting shot with it. Hoping for 300,000.
I owned a 2006 Rav4 ,put 173,000 miles with no problems and not 1 minute at the dealer for warranty repair. Traded it in for a 2011 Rav4.Put 203,00 on it with no problems and not 1 minute at the dealer for warranty work. Love my 2017 Rav4 Bought it new. Same as the previous two, no problems or warranty time .
I currently have one I've dealt with some problems with the oil as I know there's an oil burning problem so you got to keep checking the oil because the engine also goes in the Camry or Corolla I believe and they have to drop the engine and replace stuff and Toyota says it's not worth it using a higher quality thicker oil works. Other than that I have no complaints about the vehicle. I do however suffering from a catalytic converter problem and I had to get the small one replaced and the big one is going to be a lot of money.
Space... You're right! I've fitted a full size fridge inside with all the doors closed. I was pushed again the steering wheel and my testicles were getting hot when I was turning, but that's just a detail. 😂
The real top 5 issues: 1. Gas is not self filling 2. Oil changes every 5k to 10k 3. Air filter gets dirty 4. Brakes wear out 5. Tires wear out What I'm saying is these go 200k mi on nothing but basic maintenance.
My wife's 2010 RAV$ (4Cyl) now has 130K miles. Not one of those things that you have mentioned has failed yet. I have replaced the radiator, which I fortunately noticed when I open the hood for no reason. The hose was pretty much totally broken, it actually totally snapped just with the very slight touch I did. The left wheel bearing totally crapped out, due to water penetration which rusted the entire bearing. This al happned at 90K miles. To this date, just battery tires, and wiper blades that I regularly replaced. I drained and refilled twice the the ATF at 100K miles. Still drive like it was brand new to this date. The headlights are still clear since it was wrapped with 3M clear bra.
I have the same vehicle and have only had routine maintenance, tires, wipers, brakes, headlight bulbs, and batteries. Been a fantastic car. Going to keep it going until the doors fall off, if possible.
You Ignored the biggest problem with this generation Rav4: OIL CONSUMPTION. It was mostly the 2006-2008 2.4L 4 cylinder, thousands of engines were even replaced by Toyota under a campaign up until about 2018. Even the 2.5L burns some oil. The V6 is immune to the problem but more likely to have oil leaks.
We’ve got a 2010 rav, 280k kms, still going strong, no problems, chews a bit of oil these days, I’ve calculated about 10 litres per 10,000 km, sounds a lot , but that’s only 1 ml per km, easier to just top up every weekend than worry about the cost of replacing the engine or vehicle. Driving it till it dies
Hey! I'm considering buying one of these vehicles in a few months because I'm looking for something reliable and not too expensive to buy and keep, would you recommend it?
@@juanda1995 yes. i have one and it’s very noisy and loud engine but it will NEVER die. aslong as you keep up with the oil changes and top it up when it’s low it’ll last easily 300,000 miles
Ours is a 2009, it has 250k km, and the vvt rattle on cold starts, we already replaced the timing chain (caught it just as it was about to fail 😅) It doesn't burn oil at all, but we are getting low gas performance, about 6 km/L (14 mpg) and I gotta say that I drive like a grandma on Sunday. No check engine light or any other problems...
Own one as well, use some 'stop smoke' or stop leak, it usually works if the leak isn't too bad (worked on ours). Overall 240,000 kms and a bulletproof V6, can't complain.
I had the 2010 rav for eleven years just traded it in on the 2021 hybrid the only problem I had in all them years was I done a left hand front strut other wise in was amazing bullet proof I used to drive it hard from day one and it never missed a beat
I have a 2007 Rav4 V6 Sport AWD with a leaking front differential. It's not leaking from the axel seals but it is leaking at the pinion seal from the driveshaft going to the rear differential and I'm told they have to remove the whole Engine, Transmission, Differential to fix? What do you think?
I have a 2007 rav4 and I have an evap canister check engine light along with two other lights. The code suggest I replace the canister. When I pump gas, it stops all the time and I already replace the gas cap. Also one of my spark plugs leaks oil into it too. Your video is spot on lol
Thanks for sharing such great information. For EVAP box, I have replaced it twice, yet the same Symptoms/errors codes are still there. Could you please enlighten me how I can fix this issue. Thanking you in advance
Thanks, I’ve got a 2011 with just 62K on it, bought it new, haven’t had any of those problems so far but will keep them in mind, I take very good care of my vehicle & plan on keeping it until it’s no longer reasonable to put money in it, hope it’s a very long time, like over 200K. It’s been a very good SUV, I’ve had no major repairs, just recently had to replace part of the exhaust for the first time.
Recently my 2011 rav4 V6 4WD has developed an intermittent engine surge while braking. 9 years no issues. Last month, while pressing the brake to slow down/stop, the engine surged and made the vehicle difficult to stop. If I hadn't put it into neutral, it would have rolled me into the intersection. I've had the same all weather mats in the vehicle since I've bought it. Not an issue for many years. All of a sudden this new issue acutely appeared. Read through the forums. Toyota blamed the floor mats with other vehicles reporting the same issue. I switched back to the Factory mats. It worked okay for a few days, then did exactly the same thing with the original equipment Toyota mats. It's not driver error, my foot was no where near the the accelerator when braking. No one seems to know the root cause. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this and what the solution was that resolved the issue other than replacing the vehicle. There has to be a fix out there. Please let me know.
We have a 2009 RAV4. Ours has 71,415 miles on it. I just replaced the downstream O² sensor. The upstream sensor was replaced about six months ago. We also had the intermediate steering shaft replaced and (believe it or not) the transmission as well.
09 with 71,415 miles!!! Wow that's awesome, will have that car for a long time!! I have a 2011 with 146,000 and have had it since 13,000 miles. Been keeping up on maintenance and I replaced front end bushings and steering bushings but that's a Givin over time. Awesome cars
1)Radiator hose plastic connector-known failure point 2)Agree on the coils,mine went bad on 2010 3)Wheel bearings went at 90K Other than that very reliable vehicle,still going at 165,000 miles.I’m doing a suspension freshen up now. With the price of new vehicles I’m gonna keep her running until a major failure point.I’ve never had a repair I couldn’t do myself,never had it at a mechanic other than inspection.
My 2010 has 210k on it and it’s oil thirsty. Been looking for a leak but haven’t found anything. Loses about a quart every 1500-2000 miles. Pretty normal for a regularly maintained car?
I still drive my 2006 Rav I always maintain it put new part in it if needed. Such a reliable car 170,000 miles on it 4 cylinder engine and it still runs like new. Anything lasts long when you maintain it right. The only thing with the 4 cylinder engine is that it burns oil fast but I’m ok with that.
does it have the 2AZ-FE engine, that one was known to use oil after 70 thousand kilometers or so due to faulty oil rings. the engine model after that didn't have that problem, although some motors do use some when the miles get high.
We have the newer AR-FE 2.5 liter engine in our 2009. Uses no oil between changes. I don't believer in using high mileage oil unless you have a problem with oil consumption. There's nothing wrong with full synthetic Super Tech oil and that's what we use.
My 2006 has none of these issues. Surprised he didn't call out the 2AZ-FE engine like I have. The one where the piston rings were installed incorrectly. Consumes oil so have to be vigilant as to oil level.
Those are minimal and can be avoided/remedied through periodic/religious maintenance. 😊 Glad it's not engine, brakes and transmission issues compared to other makers cars belonging to that age group. Given that is a Rav 4 pretty sure it's been great miles and rough conditions with at least 140 M on it.
Happy to say, my 2010 4-cylinder has not had ONE of these problems yet... or any other major issue for that matter. What an awesome vehicle! For the last twelve years, I have followed the recommended maintenance and have replaced brakes and tires when worn. That's it! My biggest complaint is the overly-sensitive TPSM that never seems satisfied. I found your video today as I searched for ways to reset the sensors or disable the light altogether. Drives me nuts!
have a 2007 base, what's the best vacuum line to tap to perform a smoke test? Mine is throwing a P0171 and has for a while. O2 sensors, MAF, fuel filter, pressure regulator, injectors, plugs, PCV, all replaced. Amazingly hard to find a vacuum leak with other methods. Probably on there somewhere, but I'm not ruling out fuel pump, but I hear they hardly ever go bad. Will be testing fuel pressure too soon. Also, have the intake gasket in hand, but the carb cleaner check and vacuum pressure test seem to be okay.
got a 2010 rav 4 4cyl with 4wd, i got a check engine light for a misfire (sometimes) and a crank sensor circuit, my mechanic recommended not replacing it because on his data log it seemed more like a reluctor wheel. the engine starts up usually on the first couple cranks and only feels luggish occasionally when i step on it, you think my mechanic is wrong and the sensor actually is bad or is it likely the reluctor wheel is broken. im lost here
my 2012 (4 cylinder) ran like dream for 260k miles but would burn a half quart every 750 miles or so. It was my dads 2nd car and I would drive it when I wasn’t at uni. today was my first day back from uni so i drove it for the first time in awhile and when i got to my destination across town, it started smoking and then went up in flames
Rav4 don't suppose to burn engine oil. Your car probably had a oil leak and since you hadn't driven or taken care of it for a while, the oil probably leaked out. Car without motor oil will burn because of the friction.
Can Evap Canister cause the Check Engine, 4WD, and VSC all at the same time and show an OBD scanner P0171 - Too Lean code? It has long starting whenever it engine has not for long periods like overnight.
Dude, awesome videos... I live in Aussie Cobber Digger Land aka Australia. I own the same RAv4 and your level of explanation and detail are impeccable. Unfortunately we can't get your parts here in Australia and have to pay extortionate prices
We just bought a 2011 Rav4 2.5L with 152k miles from the original owner. Transmission fluid is black, but Toyota says it's not necessary to replace? PCV valve is likely defective so that would cause oil leaks, blow-by into the crankcase, and excessive oil usage. Luckily I haven't fount any oil leaks but seems to have a lot of blow-by in the oil.
I have a 2007 Rav4 with 160K miles. I just replaced the sway bar links, and I have issues filling up the gas tank all the way similar to the #2 issue mentioned in this video.
I actually commented the same thing in one of the Durango videos I think. It’s kinda weird that he says that in almost every video, and also it’s weird that he says the Dodge Avenger is a “great car.”
What year rav4 is in the video? I have done research saying not to buy 2007-2008 models but to buy the 09-10 models instead. I am currently looking at buying one with 4x4, V6 in either the limited or Sport. And what some forums and websites are suggesting is that the later models are a little easier to deal with in terms of maintenance and problems.
I’m about to buy one 2007 but I notice the back tires they are no even from inside ., is that do you think people put a lot of weight do you think if I put new tires it will damage my tires again?
Great video! Would you rather purchase 2010 Toyota Rav 4 sport with 150K miles @ $11.5K or 2006 RX400h w/ 120K miles for $10.5K? Let's assume both are in excellent condition. Both have a ll proper maintenances done. Thanks.
Currently I’m driving a2006. It was driving me crazy over couple months, starting and not starting until after 0-15!attempts. To my surprise, the dashboard wasn’t showing anything. So I grabbed my neighbor’s OBD reader, and it showed me a list of codes related to EVAP system issue. To make the story short, I replaced the purge valve, but I have to after other codes and god knows how much I spend on it before clearing all the codes. To be reasonable, I’ve had this car for 7 years no issues until this one، beside the rust, I’m telling you they’re horrible for rust
Hello! I'm having problems with my 2006 Rav4, please can you help me find out what it could be? I notice that when I drive for extended periods, once the engine is warmed up, water begins to leak from the radiator, escaping through the radiator cap and also through the breather. There is also an oil leak (under the car on the right side); the oil is very clear and thin. These leaks don't occur when I drive for a short time, only after about 20 minutes of driving. I've already checked the engine oil level, but it's fine. Could you please provide some insight into what the issue might be?
+Adebayo Aladebo We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I’ve recently noticed that when I start my rav 4 that the revs sound like they are in a slightly higher pitch kind of like as if a choke was on, the actual rpm of the car doesn’t change though.. it just sounds slightly higher pitch than normal and it’s mostly noticeable when I’m not moving or just starting to accelerate from stationary otherwise it gets drowned out in the noise of the engine after that. Anyone able to help me? Or maybe potentially suggest anything I should have looked at by a mechanic?
I have rav4 model 2009. Error in cylinder 3 when I reach high speed or climb high level. Changing sparks and coils plus swapping injectors but still same code. Checking cylinder 3 compressio it is ok.what do you purpose please.
I own a rav4 2018, and I notice the vehicle has no reset engine maintenance light that I could find, even under settings/ vehicle maintenance. There’s no reset system, question is this because it was Canadian built?
Anyone have thoughts on a used 2010 v4 with 140k miles? What should I be on the lookout for before buying? Would prefer the v6, but the only option I'm finding now are the v4. Are they as reliable as the v6? Worth $8500 if in decent shape?
Just had an oil change today at my local Toyota dealership. The service rep says my 2008 Rav4 (V6) with 194k miles on it needs a Timing Cover Reseal due to an oil leak they noticed. The service rep quoted $4200 to do the job. I was shocked! Is that way overpriced or normal price range for this repair? Need advice please. Thanks in advance! 🙏
How much oil are you adding between changes? Will it cause any damage running it that way and just adding oil? Is oil dripping on your asphalt driveway causing damage? $4200 will pay for lots of oil. Other alternative... Try finding a good independent mechanic that's good with Toyotas. Check with The Car Care Nut or Toyota Maintenance here on you tube.
I also have a 08 v6, I have a very small leak from the timing chain cover near the infamous vvti oil line, luckily for you and me this is not a high pressured zone, all you have to do it locate the leak, clean it very thoroughly, then apply some gasket sealer, let it for a day or so and be on your merry way. Just don't make a mess
2007 V-6 190,000 mi. same issue with the dealer think he said 1700$ The oil seeps on the lower end of motor have not seen any on the ground. I keep it clean add stop leak with every oil change, keeping my fingers cro$$ed.
We haven't noticed any of these problems with our 2009 RAV4 which has 62,600 miles on it. Maybe later. We have noticed that the ATF fluid is often 20⁰ to 30⁰F hotter than it should be so we change the fluid more often.
@@Probe253 4 cylinder... 2.5 liter AR-FE with 4 speed automatic. Six cylinder has a 5 speed automatic. See my updated post. Ours has over 71,000 miles now. Transmission was replaced as was the intermediate steering shaft and both O² sensors. Transmission and steering shaft were covered 100% by aftermarket warranty.
Another big problem on that generation of RAV4 not mentionned here is the drive shaft. At a certain point, the drive shaft bushing will jam (overall in the cold) and between 45-80kph it will shake. Quit costy to replace when it is the original shaft because the hole shaft as to be replace.
we have 2 rav4 in the family a 2011 and a 2007 in Australia both have the older 2AZ engine and both use oil, we don't have the cold winter problem ,so run 10w-40 full syn oil and can also run 10w-50, but l hav not tried that yet. both cars are family favourites
These days I was looking for a Honda CRV and Toyota Rav4 both 3rd Generation. So, my questions are: Which of those is better? Which version is better (Manual or Automatic)? Thanks for the answer.
If you go Honda use manual, there cvt is crap just like Nissan. Toyota makes the best transmissions. You don't want cvt transmissions so many problems. When they are new ok, but no old or used ones, because people stomp on those wrong.
neither of those generations use a CVT; they use 4 or 5 speed automatics. The RAV4 uses a 4 speed automatic unless you get the V6 which uses a 5 speed automatic. The CR-V uses a 5 speed automatic
Are their any TRD parts that will fit into a 08 rav4? I want to get a TRD air intake I would like to know what would fit if any one knows I would appreciate any info
@@Kingfisher1215 I think you may be confusing the 2.4 liter engine with the 2.5 liter engine. The 2.5 liter first made it's appearance in the 2009 RAV4 in the 2009 model year in the USA.
HI absolutely love your videos I've never done anything with cars but found you and I've already changed the front wiper motor on my rav. I'm just wandering if you have a video on how to change the fuel filter under the fuel pump in a toyota rav4 mk3 57 plate. Thanks
My Rav 4 has a problem. That is when driving it will indicate check engine, shift to P for safety. If I continue to drive it will stop it own and seize to drive. Any solution for that ?
2010 rav4 sport with 110,000 miles. Check engine 4wd and traction control light on. Went to mechanic codes for evap canister and 02 sensor at the same time.
Root cause of that oil burning is in the piston rings. By time, gunk gets accumulated around them and blocking the oil. Do 'carbon-cleaning engine' by putting oil additive every couple of oil change. I recommend ATS 505CRO, try and true Scotty Kilmer advice.
My experience with O2 sensors going bad is vehicle is the engine is burning oil which fouls the sensors (and catalytic converter) Changing O2 sensors is a bandaid solution.
I took my 2012 RAV4 w/ only 71.9 miles to a local Toyota dealer for a transmission fluid exchange. After the service, they said I needed 2 lower control arms. I then took my vehicle to my regular mechanic. He raised my RAV4 in a hoist said both control arms and sway bars look fine. Who do I believe? I do have very low mileage. Should I get a 3rd opinion? Thanks!
As long as you don't have any clunking noises, vibrations, vehicle pulling to one side or visual damage don't let the dealer steal your money. Just because a vehicle part has some amount of wear doesn't mean it needs replacing. The 2nd mechanic was a good idea and has no reason to lie to you, so no reason to see a 3rd.
There was a recall on the rear lower control arms. An independent mechanic may not know about that but a dealer would. The problem is with rust and premature breakage. You don't want that happening on the interstate. Aftermarket parts are available. If the dealer performs the service they will fix it so the control arms are not adjustable. Mine are that way. So far we haven't had a problem with tire wear and haven't needed a wheel alignment. However, your dealer could be making a mistake. The problem was in the 2009 model. I don't think it applied to the 2012 model, though I'm not certain.
We have a 2006 RAV4 Limited 4 cylinder. Here are our common problrms. 1. Water pump leak at 90,000 miles 2. Noisy Serpentine belt tensioner at 120,000 miles. Toyota updated the design at least 5 times. I had no luck just replacing the roller. 3. Intermediate steering joint, made clunking noise from the day one, Toyota never recalled because it wasnt safety issue. 4. Pass side upper engine mount went bad around 100,000 miles. 5. O2 sensors went bad around 75,000 miles. Upper sensor was due to rust 6. Rust everywhere starting 5th years on the road. 7. Soft brake system. The car stops but its soft. There is no air in the brake system. 8. Loose "A" pillar plastic trim starting 3rd year on the road. Its annoying. Yeah, we paid $27,000 for Toyota quality. 9. Eats oil, 1/2 quart every 3000 miles. We used Mobil 1 oil since we bought new. Must check oil level between oil changes. I noticed our new 2018 Tucson eats a small amount of oil too. Maybe its normal. 10. Exhaust manifold leak, replaced the entire unit recently. 11. Have struts/shocks ready to be replaced when the weather gets warmer. I think we have a lemon. How about your RAV4? I expect trouble free for at least 150,000 miles. Am I wrong?
Seems you got unlucky unfortunately. I dont have the same, I have 2008, but the only things I've had to replace was consumable parts like the tires and brakes. It currently has 200,000 miles
I have a 2009 D4D XTR 2.2L Issues faced: Grinding noise when turning from a standstill or moving slow = Top struts mounts need replacing, cant be bothered. Rusty fuel fill kneck causing major leak = was a bad design by toyota when water and dirt would get trapped updated design no more fault. ABS/VCS warning light on dash = brake light switch cheap fix Spongey pedal that drops if your hold it on = doesn't affect brakes just alittle strange 1 rear shocky slight leak at 80,000 miles = replaced both Other than that it runs spot on and has never let me down, i bought it second hand with full service history but last owner deffo stored it on a farm so i took a chance on it. Only thing ive had to replace in my ownership is rear shockys, front disks and pads (warped from previous owner) 2 Front piston caliper kits (one caliper was slightly sticky) Brake light switch Yes the rav4's love to rust underneath, need to keep ontop of them, i have a 2002 corolla which is immaculate underneath no rust, toyota don't make cars like they use too! I love toyotas if you look after them theyll look after you Preventive maintenance is the key
I have a 2011 4cyl. Bought it with 80k miles on it in Sep 2019. Only owner. As off today it has 172k miles. I drive on the freeway a lot. I first have to say that I love this car and it has been super reliable and never once left me stranded. Preventive maintenance has been done religiously (fluids, pads, spark plugs, filters etc), is easy to do and everything is simple. But here’s some negative things I have experienced so far: 1- Car has a whining noise that comes from the Transfer Case area at around 25 mph, goes away, then again at 45 mph (not as loud) and goes away if I drive faster. Has had this noise since day 1 of owning it and only got a bit louder over my ownership. I can’t find the source of this noise but I notice it goes away if I put it in Neutral. Doesn’t seem to harm anything. Mechanics can’t figure it out and I found out on forums that it’s a normal thing with these Ravs. It’s annoying but I learned to live with it. 2- VVT Solenoid started to display the typical knocking noise with these engines at around 120k miles ish. It happens when you cold start it and it lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds, then goes away as oil pressure builds up and pin locks into place. With some extensive research I found that it will cost me 700 - 1200 dollars to replace it. But I also found out that it’s not that harmful with the 4 cyl, it’s just annoying and it might last longer overtime when cold starting. If I really don’t replace it, over a long time it might mess with valve timing. 3- Spark plug chamber number 4 has a small internal leak. I found that out while replacing all spark plugs at around 110k miles. Spark plug came out with a dark line of oil on it. But tip was clean which means it’s not piston rings or something major. Left it alone, no problems so far. 4- Belt tensioner (I believe) is making a constant knocking noise after cold start, specially after putting into gear or turning A/C on. Gets quieter after the engine has been warmed up. Something I need to look into it and replace it. Started at around 140k miles and has gotten louder. 4- Front right suspension recently started to go bad at around 150k miles. Just normal wear and tear. Already bought a new one (KYB Brand). Still waiting for the left side to go in stock again to buy it. 5- Brake pedal is somewhat soft and it has been since I bought it. Replacing pads, rotors, and lubricating guide pins regularly seemed to help, but didn’t solve the problem. 6- Small Muffler Leak appeared at around 140k miles right on a welding spot at the very center. 7- Trunk door has a big rattle that I cannot fix it for the life of me (whole door moves and makes this noise). I already replaced the V shaped plastic that holds it in place and nothing. The temporary fix is a folded rag between the weather strip and metal where the latch is located, gets rid of it 100%. 8-Small plastic rattle that comes from the back that I also CANNOT find the source and it’s super annoying as it’s higher pitched then the trunk door one. 9- Alternator is weak (low idle symptom while stopped), but when the lights are on (even the parking ones), the car bumps the voltage up a bit and symptom goes away.
I traded my '16 tucson for a '11 rav4. I will NEVER own a hyundai again. The tucsons DCT shit the bed 28k miles in... hundreds of complaints Hyundai just replaced it. The alternator died at 80k, rear diff at 92k. It was a NIGHTMARE. I magically got an $8k trade in value and paid $4k cash for the rav4 with only 68k miles. The tucson needed new tires, oil change, and struts at 110k so basically $2k+ and i finally said "F it". I had to replace the alternator 5 months into the rav4 but it was 10 years old... the hyundai was 3 years old when i had to do it.
Thanks you for making the video and sharing your knowledge. I am looking for a RAV from 2009-2012. Currently have my eyes on some 2012, 2.4l engine 2AZ-FE. I heard they have piston ring issue. Any comments Thank you so much
Yes, unfortunately they have this problem. It is not so common as you may think, but some will eventually start burning oil at 100,000 miles or so. Can be rebuilt and fixed. Check if they have already done that.
I have a Toyota Rav4 2008 front Wheel Drive and I have Engine, VSC and Trach lights came on. I scanned the code in Auto Zone and I had all of these codes displayed: C0205, C1201, C1223, C1241, C1267 and P2401. I had never seen the Cs codes before. They worry me? Any advise????? Thanks in advance. By the way my mileage is high ..over 170K.
My 07 does this try unscrewing the gas cap and closing is tightly and properly and drive around they usually go away for a while. It could also be a knock sensor or 02 sensor. Take to it Toyota for a scan
Andy, nice seeing you again on the videos.. Looks like you lost some weight. Hope it wasn't the corona. Good health to you and the team at 1A auto. Cheers!
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I have some issue with clicking sound near wheels like under the car. I am not a mechanic but I think it’s those sway bars you mentioned or is it axels ?
I have a 2007 Rav 4. I have been blessed to have over 280,000 miles. I have had the ignition coil issue and the burning oil as well. Toyota basically rebuilt the motor about 5 years ago because of it. I love mine but know time is getting shot with it. Hoping for 300,000.
I owned a 2006 Rav4 ,put 173,000 miles with no problems and not 1 minute at the dealer for warranty repair. Traded it in for a 2011 Rav4.Put 203,00 on it with no problems and not 1 minute at the dealer for warranty work. Love my 2017 Rav4 Bought it new. Same as the previous two, no problems or warranty time .
2007 RAV4 was once my mom's car. Great on gas, reliable, and can fit more stuff than a sedan! Great daily!
What about that oil problem?
@@UnsettlingDwarf If it’s a 2011-2012 it doesn’t have the problem. They addressed the problem on the updated engine.
I currently have one I've dealt with some problems with the oil as I know there's an oil burning problem so you got to keep checking the oil because the engine also goes in the Camry or Corolla I believe and they have to drop the engine and replace stuff and Toyota says it's not worth it using a higher quality thicker oil works. Other than that I have no complaints about the vehicle. I do however suffering from a catalytic converter problem and I had to get the small one replaced and the big one is going to be a lot of money.
Only the 2.4 liter four cylinder had the problem 2006-2008. Ours is 2009 and consumes no oil between changes.
Space... You're right! I've fitted a full size fridge inside with all the doors closed. I was pushed again the steering wheel and my testicles were getting hot when I was turning, but that's just a detail. 😂
08 Rav 4 V6... 272177 on the clock and still running great!😎
How about torque converter shudder? That is a VERY common issue with Rav4s. There were even recalls for some years.
The real top 5 issues:
1. Gas is not self filling
2. Oil changes every 5k to 10k
3. Air filter gets dirty
4. Brakes wear out
5. Tires wear out
What I'm saying is these go 200k mi on nothing but basic maintenance.
+Rob Stop It Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto I forgot to say I had a headlight burn out and your video saved me the headache of figuring out what fasteners needed to come out. Thank you.
This is spot on. 2007 rav4 V6. It had thr sway bar problem and o2 sensor issue at around 110k miles. Replaced those, now going 🎉smoothly
My wife's 2010 RAV$ (4Cyl) now has 130K miles. Not one of those things that you have mentioned has failed yet. I have replaced the radiator, which I fortunately noticed when I open the hood for no reason. The hose was pretty much totally broken, it actually totally snapped just with the very slight touch I did. The left wheel bearing totally crapped out, due to water penetration which rusted the entire bearing. This al happned at 90K miles. To this date, just battery tires, and wiper blades that I regularly replaced. I drained and refilled twice the the ATF at 100K miles. Still drive like it was brand new to this date. The headlights are still clear since it was wrapped with 3M clear bra.
Cuanto. Balen. O. El. Presio
Same here. My 3rd gen rav 4 have 283k still none of the 5 problems
I have the same vehicle and have only had routine maintenance, tires, wipers, brakes, headlight bulbs, and batteries. Been a fantastic car. Going to keep it going until the doors fall off, if possible.
I have a 06 4cyl. Just hit 200k and only have had one or two of these problems. I'd drive to Florida and back (I live in Kentucky). It's amazing
I had zero problems in this video, but the exact problems you have wheel bearing and plastic radiator Y cracked. 100k miles
You Ignored the biggest problem with this generation Rav4: OIL CONSUMPTION. It was mostly the 2006-2008 2.4L 4 cylinder, thousands of engines were even replaced by Toyota under a campaign up until about 2018. Even the 2.5L burns some oil. The V6 is immune to the problem but more likely to have oil leaks.
No mention of the leaky rear diff seals? or possible rear diff bearing going bad?
We’ve got a 2010 rav, 280k kms, still going strong, no problems, chews a bit of oil these days, I’ve calculated about 10 litres per 10,000 km, sounds a lot , but that’s only 1 ml per km, easier to just top up every weekend than worry about the cost of replacing the engine or vehicle. Driving it till it dies
Hey! I'm considering buying one of these vehicles in a few months because I'm looking for something reliable and not too expensive to buy and keep, would you recommend it?
@@juanda1995 yes. i have one and it’s very noisy and loud engine but it will NEVER die. aslong as you keep up with the oil changes and top it up when it’s low it’ll last easily 300,000 miles
Ours is a 2009, it has 250k km, and the vvt rattle on cold starts, we already replaced the timing chain (caught it just as it was about to fail 😅)
It doesn't burn oil at all, but we are getting low gas performance, about 6 km/L (14 mpg) and I gotta say that I drive like a grandma on Sunday.
No check engine light or any other problems...
4 or 6 cylinder?
Own one as well, use some 'stop smoke' or stop leak, it usually works if the leak isn't too bad (worked on ours). Overall 240,000 kms and a bulletproof V6, can't complain.
I had the 2010 rav for eleven years just traded it in on the 2021 hybrid the only problem I had in all them years was I done a left hand front strut other wise in was amazing bullet proof I used to drive it hard from day one and it never missed a beat
I have the same problem with mine ,, only problem in 12 years 400,000 km and still going hard
I have a 2007 Rav4 V6 Sport AWD with a leaking front differential. It's not leaking from the axel seals but it is leaking at the pinion seal from the driveshaft going to the rear differential and I'm told they have to remove the whole Engine, Transmission, Differential to fix? What do you think?
My 08 has 164k miles. Running like a beast ❤
Wow, you dive right in to the topic, direct, to the point with out 5 minutes of rambling!!
I subscribed!!!
🖖🇺🇦🙏
I have a 2007 rav4 and I have an evap canister check engine light along with two other lights. The code suggest I replace the canister. When I pump gas, it stops all the time and I already replace the gas cap. Also one of my spark plugs leaks oil into it too. Your video is spot on lol
How many miles is on your RAV4
@@Takumawakanda right now over 144k
Great info but you forgot to mention at what miles aprox all this problems begin or may appear...
Thanks for sharing such great information.
For EVAP box, I have replaced it twice, yet the same Symptoms/errors codes are still there. Could you please enlighten me how I can fix this issue.
Thanking you in advance
Have a 11’ 4 cylinder rav 4, 186,000, diff leaks, burns oil a tad, still runs like a dream
Thanks, I’ve got a 2011 with just 62K on it, bought it new, haven’t had any of those problems so far but will keep them in mind, I take very good care of my vehicle & plan on keeping it until it’s no longer reasonable to put money in it, hope it’s a very long time, like over 200K. It’s been a very good SUV, I’ve had no major repairs, just recently had to replace part of the exhaust for the first time.
I have a 2011 rav with 121k kms on it and hoping it'll go far past 200k kms. My 1st rav was a 97' and I sold it with over 500k kms on it!
Recently my 2011 rav4 V6 4WD has developed an intermittent engine surge while braking. 9 years no issues. Last month, while pressing the brake to slow down/stop, the engine surged and made the vehicle difficult to stop. If I hadn't put it into neutral, it would have rolled me into the intersection. I've had the same all weather mats in the vehicle since I've bought it. Not an issue for many years. All of a sudden this new issue acutely appeared. Read through the forums. Toyota blamed the floor mats with other vehicles reporting the same issue. I switched back to the Factory mats. It worked okay for a few days, then did exactly the same thing with the original equipment Toyota mats. It's not driver error, my foot was no where near the the accelerator when braking. No one seems to know the root cause. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this and what the solution was that resolved the issue other than replacing the vehicle. There has to be a fix out there. Please let me know.
Driving our RAV4 07 with 120K mileage. I will keep it until it will tell me he need to rest for good.😉
Gotta love this series. So much better than the endless cabin air filter videos, ha ha.
We have a 2009 RAV4. Ours has 71,415 miles on it. I just replaced the downstream O² sensor. The upstream sensor was replaced about six months ago. We also had the intermediate steering shaft replaced and (believe it or not) the transmission as well.
09 with 71,415 miles!!! Wow that's awesome, will have that car for a long time!! I have a 2011 with 146,000 and have had it since 13,000 miles. Been keeping up on maintenance and I replaced front end bushings and steering bushings but that's a Givin over time. Awesome cars
Did you ever change oil in the transmission?
@@Jakerz007 I just bought a 2011 rav sport (sap) with 121k kms on it. Hoping it'll last me a long time with proper maintenance.
@@yarpenzigrin1893 yes, I have the transmission flushed once every 2 oil changes.
1)Radiator hose plastic connector-known failure point
2)Agree on the coils,mine went bad on 2010
3)Wheel bearings went at 90K
Other than that very reliable vehicle,still going at 165,000 miles.I’m doing a suspension freshen up now.
With the price of new vehicles I’m gonna keep her running until a major failure point.I’ve never had a repair I couldn’t do myself,never had it at a mechanic other than inspection.
My 2010 has 210k on it and it’s oil thirsty. Been looking for a leak but haven’t found anything. Loses about a quart every 1500-2000 miles. Pretty normal for a regularly maintained car?
I still drive my 2006 Rav I always maintain it put new part in it if needed. Such a reliable car 170,000 miles on it 4 cylinder engine and it still runs like new. Anything lasts long when you maintain it right. The only thing with the 4 cylinder engine is that it burns oil fast but I’m ok with that.
does it have the 2AZ-FE engine, that one was known to use oil after 70 thousand kilometers or so due to faulty oil rings. the engine model after that didn't have that problem, although some motors do use some when the miles get high.
I have an 09. I run nothing but mobile 1 full synthetic oil for high mileage. I have no leaks, my oil does not burn and I have 150k+ miles on it.
We have the newer AR-FE 2.5 liter engine in our 2009. Uses no oil between changes. I don't believer in using high mileage oil unless you have a problem with oil consumption.
There's nothing wrong with full synthetic Super Tech oil and that's what we use.
My 2006 has none of these issues. Surprised he didn't call out the 2AZ-FE engine like I have. The one where the piston rings were installed incorrectly. Consumes oil so have to be vigilant as to oil level.
I do not have any of those problems with 2008 rav4. Great information to look out for. Thanks.
Those are minimal and can be avoided/remedied through periodic/religious maintenance. 😊
Glad it's not engine, brakes and transmission issues compared to other makers cars belonging to that age group.
Given that is a Rav 4 pretty sure it's been great miles and rough conditions with at least 140 M on it.
2008 Rav are common for throwing a rod and needing a engine replacement
Good info, if you do a video on replacing the rear reinforcement bar that would be great as im sure there are some rusting out like ours!
Happy to say, my 2010 4-cylinder has not had ONE of these problems yet... or any other major issue for that matter. What an awesome vehicle!
For the last twelve years, I have followed the recommended maintenance and have replaced brakes and tires when worn. That's it!
My biggest complaint is the overly-sensitive TPSM that never seems satisfied. I found your video today as I searched for ways to reset the sensors or disable the light altogether. Drives me nuts!
have a 2007 base, what's the best vacuum line to tap to perform a smoke test? Mine is throwing a P0171 and has for a while. O2 sensors, MAF, fuel filter, pressure regulator, injectors, plugs, PCV, all replaced. Amazingly hard to find a vacuum leak with other methods. Probably on there somewhere, but I'm not ruling out fuel pump, but I hear they hardly ever go bad. Will be testing fuel pressure too soon. Also, have the intake gasket in hand, but the carb cleaner check and vacuum pressure test seem to be okay.
What about burning oil since they drilled the piston holds too small.
That was the 2.4 liter engine prior to 2009 in the US.
got a 2010 rav 4 4cyl with 4wd, i got a check engine light for a misfire (sometimes) and a crank sensor circuit, my mechanic recommended not replacing it because on his data log it seemed more like a reluctor wheel. the engine starts up usually on the first couple cranks and only feels luggish occasionally when i step on it, you think my mechanic is wrong and the sensor actually is bad or is it likely the reluctor wheel is broken. im lost here
If you want to fix the timing cover leak for the V6 3.5L do you need to pull the engine out ?
my 2012 (4 cylinder) ran like dream for 260k miles but would burn a half quart every 750 miles or so. It was my dads 2nd car and I would drive it when I wasn’t at uni. today was my first day back from uni so i drove it for the first time in awhile and when i got to my destination across town, it started smoking and then went up in flames
Rav4 don't suppose to burn engine oil. Your car probably had a oil leak and since you hadn't driven or taken care of it for a while, the oil probably leaked out. Car without motor oil will burn because of the friction.
Can Evap Canister cause the Check Engine, 4WD, and VSC all at the same time and show an OBD scanner P0171 - Too Lean code? It has long starting whenever it engine has not for long periods like overnight.
Dude, awesome videos... I live in Aussie Cobber Digger Land aka Australia. I own the same RAv4 and your level of explanation and detail are impeccable. Unfortunately we can't get your parts here in Australia and have to pay extortionate prices
~320k on my 2012 2.5l. Still running strong!
We just bought a 2011 Rav4 2.5L with 152k miles from the original owner. Transmission fluid is black, but Toyota says it's not necessary to replace? PCV valve is likely defective so that would cause oil leaks, blow-by into the crankcase, and excessive oil usage. Luckily I haven't fount any oil leaks but seems to have a lot of blow-by in the oil.
I'm about to flush and change my ATF. I keep getting a shudder at 40mph in low rpm. Have you experienced this?
I really like this video and I have had some of these problems thanks for the info
Just picked 1 up....69k...super clean !!!
Roomy...great on gas...RAV4 is AWESOME !!!!🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲
what size engine , may i ask?
I have a 2007 Rav4 with 160K miles. I just replaced the sway bar links, and I have issues filling up the gas tank all the way similar to the #2 issue mentioned in this video.
Would y recommend purchasing a 2007 or 2008 rav 4 and which one should last the longest thanks
Hello I have a question for you? where is located the VVT filter of the rav4 2008
tanks.
I feel like Andy has owned every car he checks. At the same time, I’ve owned many of the same ones, so maybe I should shut my mouth hahaha!
I actually commented the same thing in one of the Durango videos I think. It’s kinda weird that he says that in almost every video, and also it’s weird that he says the Dodge Avenger is a “great car.”
Can you help with some advice, I have a strange sound coming from the engine air filter box. RAV4 III 2007, 2.2D
What year rav4 is in the video? I have done research saying not to buy 2007-2008 models but to buy the 09-10 models instead. I am currently looking at buying one with 4x4, V6 in either the limited or Sport. And what some forums and websites are suggesting is that the later models are a little easier to deal with in terms of maintenance and problems.
I’m about to buy one 2007 but I notice the back tires they are no even from inside ., is that do you think people put a lot of weight do you think if I put new tires it will damage my tires again?
Great video! Would you rather purchase 2010 Toyota Rav 4 sport with 150K miles @ $11.5K or 2006 RX400h w/ 120K miles for $10.5K? Let's assume both are in excellent condition. Both have a ll proper maintenances done. Thanks.
Currently I’m driving a2006. It was driving me crazy over couple months, starting and not starting until after 0-15!attempts. To my surprise, the dashboard wasn’t showing anything. So I grabbed my neighbor’s OBD reader, and it showed me a list of codes related to EVAP system issue. To make the story short, I replaced the purge valve, but I have to after other codes and god knows how much I spend on it before clearing all the codes. To be reasonable, I’ve had this car for 7 years no issues until this one، beside the rust, I’m telling you they’re horrible for rust
09 at 312000, rear diff vent plugged and forcing oil out axle seals. No other issues. Best car I've owned.
Hello! I'm having problems with my 2006 Rav4, please can you help me find out what it could be? I notice that when I drive for extended periods, once the engine is warmed up, water begins to leak from the radiator, escaping through the radiator cap and also through the breather. There is also an oil leak (under the car on the right side); the oil is very clear and thin. These leaks don't occur when I drive for a short time, only after about 20 minutes of driving. I've already checked the engine oil level, but it's fine. Could you please provide some insight into what the issue might be?
2008 Toyota rav 4 limited V6 220k miles and running happy! 😊
Any advice on my 2005 toyota rav4, not economizing fuel whenever the AC is on?
+Adebayo Aladebo We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Have you heard of any 2007 having problems with the voltage regulator and is it hard to replace on this car? So frustrating.
Hi
My 08 toyota rav4 check engine and 4×4 lights came on and stayed on, after using my alarm to reset the ignition to start . Any suggestions, thanks
Is the can converter near the engine on these 3rd generations? I see what looks like one closer to the muffler. Maybe it has two ?
Four cylinder only has one catalytic converter.
Thanks for the video. I think my RAV4 needs new sway bar links.
I’ve recently noticed that when I start my rav 4 that the revs sound like they are in a slightly higher pitch kind of like as if a choke was on, the actual rpm of the car doesn’t change though.. it just sounds slightly higher pitch than normal and it’s mostly noticeable when I’m not moving or just starting to accelerate from stationary otherwise it gets drowned out in the noise of the engine after that. Anyone able to help me? Or maybe potentially suggest anything I should have looked at by a mechanic?
i had this problem. just use a fuel system cleaner and it will solve it.
yup, have had a few of these, but great car and relatively easy fixes.
I have a v6. 2008 rav4 can you tell me how many oxygen sensor is it ?
I have rav4 model 2009.
Error in cylinder 3 when I reach high speed or climb high level.
Changing sparks and coils plus swapping injectors but still same code. Checking cylinder 3 compressio it is ok.what do you purpose please.
I own a rav4 2018, and I notice the vehicle has no reset engine maintenance light that I could find, even under settings/ vehicle maintenance. There’s no reset system, question is this because it was Canadian built?
Wow. Incredibly clear and competent.
Anyone have thoughts on a used 2010 v4 with 140k miles? What should I be on the lookout for before buying? Would prefer the v6, but the only option I'm finding now are the v4. Are they as reliable as the v6? Worth $8500 if in decent shape?
Just had an oil change today at my local Toyota dealership. The service rep says my 2008 Rav4 (V6) with 194k miles on it needs a Timing Cover Reseal due to an oil leak they noticed. The service rep quoted $4200 to do the job. I was shocked! Is that way overpriced or normal price range for this repair? Need advice please. Thanks in advance! 🙏
Your first issue was going to the toyota dealer lol
How much oil are you adding between changes? Will it cause any damage running it that way and just adding oil? Is oil dripping on your asphalt driveway causing damage? $4200 will pay for lots of oil.
Other alternative... Try finding a good independent mechanic that's good with Toyotas.
Check with The Car Care Nut or Toyota Maintenance here on you tube.
I also have a 08 v6, I have a very small leak from the timing chain cover near the infamous vvti oil line, luckily for you and me this is not a high pressured zone, all you have to do it locate the leak, clean it very thoroughly, then apply some gasket sealer, let it for a day or so and be on your merry way. Just don't make a mess
2007 V-6 190,000 mi. same issue with the dealer think he said 1700$
The oil seeps on the lower end of motor have not seen any on the ground.
I keep it clean add stop leak with every oil change, keeping my fingers cro$$ed.
What the diff leaks? Bad breather issues?
We haven't noticed any of these problems with our 2009 RAV4 which has 62,600 miles on it. Maybe later. We have noticed that the ATF fluid is often 20⁰ to 30⁰F hotter than it should be so we change the fluid more often.
4 Cyl or 6?
@@Probe253
4 cylinder... 2.5 liter AR-FE with 4 speed automatic. Six cylinder has a 5 speed automatic.
See my updated post. Ours has over 71,000 miles now. Transmission was replaced as was the intermediate steering shaft and both O² sensors. Transmission and steering shaft were covered 100% by aftermarket warranty.
How much should I spend on a tensioner? I'm seeing prices from $30 to $300. Dont want to buy bootleg but also dont want to over pay.
At what common approx mileage do the problems in video occur?
Another big problem on that generation of RAV4 not mentionned here is the drive shaft. At a certain point, the drive shaft bushing will jam (overall in the cold) and between 45-80kph it will shake. Quit costy to replace when it is the original shaft because the hole shaft as to be replace.
Sounds like you got shafted 😝
Many thanks...
I have a 2008 rav4 and a feel a little vibrations on the right hand side on dirt roads.
Is that it? Amazing vehicles. Still too much electronics, but hope for the best as I just purchased one.
What do you think about the piston ring issue on the early motor, is it as bad as they say?
we have 2 rav4 in the family a 2011 and a 2007 in Australia both have the older 2AZ engine and both use oil, we don't have the cold winter problem ,so run 10w-40 full syn oil and can also run 10w-50, but l hav not tried that yet. both cars are family favourites
These days I was looking for a Honda CRV and Toyota Rav4 both 3rd Generation. So, my questions are: Which of those is better? Which version is better (Manual or Automatic)?
Thanks for the answer.
If you go Honda use manual, there cvt is crap just like Nissan. Toyota makes the best transmissions. You don't want cvt transmissions so many problems. When they are new ok, but no old or used ones, because people stomp on those wrong.
neither of those generations use a CVT; they use 4 or 5 speed automatics. The RAV4 uses a 4 speed automatic unless you get the V6 which uses a 5 speed automatic. The CR-V uses a 5 speed automatic
the real answer here is... if you want 4cyl buy a Honda 2.4L if you want 6cyl buy a Toyota 3.5L
Neither is better than the other. Buy the one you like most.
Are their any TRD parts that will fit into a 08 rav4? I want to get a TRD air intake I would like to know what would fit if any one knows I would appreciate any info
Thanks for this video, does the oil leaks happen on a 4 cylinder 4WD with approximately 100k miles on it? 2010?
That engine is renowned for using oil. Bad design. It’s the same issue for all Toyota’s with that engine.
I have a 2009 and a 2011 Rav4, both with 4 cylinder engines and over 100k miles. No oil leaks on either one. Great vehicles.
@@Kingfisher1215
I think you may be confusing the 2.4 liter engine with the 2.5 liter engine. The 2.5 liter first made it's appearance in the 2009 RAV4 in the 2009 model year in the USA.
HI absolutely love your videos I've never done anything with cars but found you and I've already changed the front wiper motor on my rav. I'm just wandering if you have a video on how to change the fuel filter under the fuel pump in a toyota rav4 mk3 57 plate. Thanks
My Rav 4 has a problem. That is when driving it will indicate check engine, shift to P for safety. If I continue to drive it will stop it own and seize to drive. Any solution for that ?
My subaru has the same problem. Did you find the solution yet? The garage was not able to find it.
2010 rav4 sport with 110,000 miles. Check engine 4wd and traction control light on. Went to mechanic codes for evap canister and 02 sensor at the same time.
Con cuantos kilómetros empiezan esos problemas?
Where do you learn all these ????
Hi there do u know any way how I can slow down the oil burning issue on this model? Thanks
Root cause of that oil burning is in the piston rings. By time, gunk gets accumulated around them and blocking the oil. Do 'carbon-cleaning engine' by putting oil additive every couple of oil change. I recommend ATS 505CRO, try and true Scotty Kilmer advice.
Drive less.
Dont forget the rear diff Viscous coupler bearing making whining noise.
This channel is very educational keep up the good work
My experience with O2 sensors going bad is vehicle is the engine is burning oil which fouls the sensors (and catalytic converter) Changing O2 sensors is a bandaid solution.
Thanks for the great info!
Top radiator hose leak is very common. Hose bust at small hose connector at main hose. Probably more common than anything mentioned here.
Very informative
I took my 2012 RAV4 w/ only 71.9 miles to a local Toyota dealer for a transmission fluid exchange. After the service, they said I needed 2 lower control arms. I then took my vehicle to my regular mechanic. He raised my RAV4 in a hoist said both control arms and sway bars look fine. Who do I believe? I do have very low mileage. Should I get a 3rd opinion? Thanks!
U should be fine the dealership just wanna make cash
As long as you don't have any clunking noises, vibrations, vehicle pulling to one side or visual damage don't let the dealer steal your money. Just because a vehicle part has some amount of wear doesn't mean it needs replacing. The 2nd mechanic was a good idea and has no reason to lie to you, so no reason to see a 3rd.
There was a recall on the rear lower control arms. An independent mechanic may not know about that but a dealer would. The problem is with rust and premature breakage. You don't want that happening on the interstate. Aftermarket parts are available. If the dealer performs the service they will fix it so the control arms are not adjustable. Mine are that way. So far we haven't had a problem with tire wear and haven't needed a wheel alignment.
However, your dealer could be making a mistake. The problem was in the 2009 model. I don't think it applied to the 2012 model, though I'm not certain.
So the ignition coils on a 2.5l rav4. To be clear...
Front drive shafts?
I have a RAV4 AWD 1997 with 200,000 miles. I want to buy a 2010 V6 AWD but it's very hard to find someone willing to sell it, at least in my area.
Got 1. You want to buy it from me
i see those in my area all the time
We have a 2006 RAV4 Limited 4 cylinder. Here are our common problrms.
1. Water pump leak at 90,000 miles
2. Noisy Serpentine belt tensioner at 120,000 miles. Toyota updated the design at least 5 times. I had no luck just replacing the roller.
3. Intermediate steering joint, made clunking noise from the day one, Toyota never recalled because it wasnt safety issue.
4. Pass side upper engine mount went bad around 100,000 miles.
5. O2 sensors went bad around 75,000 miles. Upper sensor was due to rust
6. Rust everywhere starting 5th years on the road.
7. Soft brake system. The car stops but its soft. There is no air in the brake system.
8. Loose "A" pillar plastic trim starting 3rd year on the road. Its annoying. Yeah, we paid $27,000 for Toyota quality.
9. Eats oil, 1/2 quart every 3000 miles. We used Mobil 1 oil since we bought new. Must check oil level between oil changes. I noticed our new 2018 Tucson eats a small amount of oil too. Maybe its normal.
10. Exhaust manifold leak, replaced the entire unit recently.
11. Have struts/shocks ready to be replaced when the weather gets warmer.
I think we have a lemon. How about your RAV4? I expect trouble free for at least 150,000 miles. Am I wrong?
Seems you got unlucky unfortunately. I dont have the same, I have 2008, but the only things I've had to replace was consumable parts like the tires and brakes. It currently has 200,000 miles
I have a 2009 D4D XTR 2.2L
Issues faced:
Grinding noise when turning from a standstill or moving slow = Top struts mounts need replacing, cant be bothered.
Rusty fuel fill kneck causing major leak = was a bad design by toyota when water and dirt would get trapped updated design no more fault.
ABS/VCS warning light on dash = brake light switch cheap fix
Spongey pedal that drops if your hold it on = doesn't affect brakes just alittle strange
1 rear shocky slight leak at 80,000 miles = replaced both
Other than that it runs spot on and has never let me down, i bought it second hand with full service history but last owner deffo stored it on a farm so i took a chance on it.
Only thing ive had to replace in my ownership is rear shockys, front disks and pads (warped from previous owner)
2 Front piston caliper kits (one caliper was slightly sticky)
Brake light switch
Yes the rav4's love to rust underneath, need to keep ontop of them, i have a 2002 corolla which is immaculate underneath no rust, toyota don't make cars like they use too!
I love toyotas if you look after them theyll look after you
Preventive maintenance is the key
The oil consumption was faulty with that 2.4 engine.
I have a 2011 4cyl. Bought it with 80k miles on it in Sep 2019. Only owner. As off today it has 172k miles. I drive on the freeway a lot. I first have to say that I love this car and it has been super reliable and never once left me stranded. Preventive maintenance has been done religiously (fluids, pads, spark plugs, filters etc), is easy to do and everything is simple. But here’s some negative things I have experienced so far:
1- Car has a whining noise that comes from the Transfer Case area at around 25 mph, goes away, then again at 45 mph (not as loud) and goes away if I drive faster. Has had this noise since day 1 of owning it and only got a bit louder over my ownership. I can’t find the source of this noise but I notice it goes away if I put it in Neutral. Doesn’t seem to harm anything. Mechanics can’t figure it out and I found out on forums that it’s a normal thing with these Ravs. It’s annoying but I learned to live with it.
2- VVT Solenoid started to display the typical knocking noise with these engines at around 120k miles ish. It happens when you cold start it and it lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds, then goes away as oil pressure builds up and pin locks into place. With some extensive research I found that it will cost me 700 - 1200 dollars to replace it. But I also found out that it’s not that harmful with the 4 cyl, it’s just annoying and it might last longer overtime when cold starting. If I really don’t replace it, over a long time it might mess with valve timing.
3- Spark plug chamber number 4 has a small internal leak. I found that out while replacing all spark plugs at around 110k miles. Spark plug came out with a dark line of oil on it. But tip was clean which means it’s not piston rings or something major. Left it alone, no problems so far.
4- Belt tensioner (I believe) is making a constant knocking noise after cold start, specially after putting into gear or turning A/C on. Gets quieter after the engine has been warmed up. Something I need to look into it and replace it. Started at around 140k miles and has gotten louder.
4- Front right suspension recently started to go bad at around 150k miles. Just normal wear and tear. Already bought a new one (KYB Brand). Still waiting for the left side to go in stock again to buy it.
5- Brake pedal is somewhat soft and it has been since I bought it. Replacing pads, rotors, and lubricating guide pins regularly seemed to help, but didn’t solve the problem.
6- Small Muffler Leak appeared at around 140k miles right on a welding spot at the very center.
7- Trunk door has a big rattle that I cannot fix it for the life of me (whole door moves and makes this noise). I already replaced the V shaped plastic that holds it in place and nothing. The temporary fix is a folded rag between the weather strip and metal where the latch is located, gets rid of it 100%.
8-Small plastic rattle that comes from the back that I also CANNOT find the source and it’s super annoying as it’s higher pitched then the trunk door one.
9- Alternator is weak (low idle symptom while stopped), but when the lights are on (even the parking ones), the car bumps the voltage up a bit and symptom goes away.
I traded my '16 tucson for a '11 rav4. I will NEVER own a hyundai again. The tucsons DCT shit the bed 28k miles in... hundreds of complaints Hyundai just replaced it. The alternator died at 80k, rear diff at 92k. It was a NIGHTMARE. I magically got an $8k trade in value and paid $4k cash for the rav4 with only 68k miles. The tucson needed new tires, oil change, and struts at 110k so basically $2k+ and i finally said "F it".
I had to replace the alternator 5 months into the rav4 but it was 10 years old... the hyundai was 3 years old when i had to do it.
Thanks you for making the video and sharing your knowledge. I am looking for a RAV from 2009-2012. Currently have my eyes on some 2012, 2.4l engine 2AZ-FE. I heard they have piston ring issue. Any comments
Thank you so much
Yes, unfortunately they have this problem. It is not so common as you may think, but some will eventually start burning oil at 100,000 miles or so. Can be rebuilt and fixed. Check if they have already done that.
Hey did you ever find a rav4?
I believe 2012 has the 2ar fe
The 2011-2012 ones do not have the burning oil issue thankfully. They addressed this problem for the last years of this gen. for the 2AR-FE engines.
My 2011 doesn’t burn a drop. It is at 135xxx miles. Great car. My only problem is the door handles are starting to break.
I have a Toyota Rav4 2008 front Wheel Drive and I have Engine, VSC and Trach lights came on. I scanned the code in Auto Zone and I had all of these codes displayed: C0205, C1201, C1223, C1241, C1267 and P2401. I had never seen the Cs codes before. They worry me? Any advise????? Thanks in advance.
By the way my mileage is high ..over 170K.
My 07 does this try unscrewing the gas cap and closing is tightly and properly and drive around they usually go away for a while. It could also be a knock sensor or 02 sensor. Take to it Toyota for a scan
Andy, nice seeing you again on the videos.. Looks like you lost some weight. Hope it wasn't the corona. Good health to you and the team at 1A auto. Cheers!
Thank you for Sharing