Tons of unnecessary steps on this one. And I do mean a TON! -Lower control arms DON'T need to be COMPLETELY removed. Only the inner connections, for example one at 8:10 and the other mounting point further back on the crossmember (where the rack & pinions bolted to). In other words, removal of strut bolt/ lower ball joints and all that nonsense not necessary. -Rack and pinion & associated lines DON'T need to be removed, you simply remove the massive bolts holding it to the crossmember and leave it there hanging. The crossmember it self does need to come out, which is why you need to remove both lower control arm mounting points, motor mounts, and rack and pinion mounting bolts. * Not removing the rack like you did saves all the hassle of leaking connections later on. -Gen 1 (hydraulic fan models) 2000-2002 need lines the fan itself removed if you're planning on jacking the engine up and down once the mounts are out. Otherwise el will bend the hose and leak if you're not paying close attention. Easiest way to go about it is to remove the 3? bolts holding the line to the "motor" on the fan, watch out for the gears not falling and a small "key" about the diameter & length of a pen point, if you lose this hydraulic fan will not work no more. You can also remove it at the pump itself, its a tough job to due to clearance issues, and has a seal that can leak later. -Depending on driving habits this is a great time to replace rod bearings. The chassis with a decent tire setup can handle more G forces than the poorly baffled oil pan which will starve the pump of oil in the corners and wear out your rod bearings. The middle cylinder on the passenger car seems to be the one to show the most amount of bearing wear every time on these motors. If car has been driven like a grandpa then no need to worry but just saying. Just my 0.2 cents. Didn't watch the whole video so I may have missed a thing or two but yeah, hoping this helps someone. Thanks for the upload though, there were no tutorials when I did mine, no longer own the car unfortunately.
Good stuff again! Do you know if there are flasher relays for the LS are? I had my instrument cluster replaced years ago and my turn signals are going crazy but my hazards still work. Cant seem to find the relays for it.
Tons of unnecessary steps on this one. And I do mean a TON!
-Lower control arms DON'T need to be COMPLETELY removed. Only the inner connections, for example one at 8:10 and the other mounting point further back on the crossmember (where the rack & pinions bolted to). In other words, removal of strut bolt/ lower ball joints and all that nonsense not necessary.
-Rack and pinion & associated lines DON'T need to be removed, you simply remove the massive bolts holding it to the crossmember and leave it there hanging. The crossmember it self does need to come out, which is why you need to remove both lower control arm mounting points, motor mounts, and rack and pinion mounting bolts. * Not removing the rack like you did saves all the hassle of leaking connections later on.
-Gen 1 (hydraulic fan models) 2000-2002 need lines the fan itself removed if you're planning on jacking the engine up and down once the mounts are out. Otherwise el will bend the hose and leak if you're not paying close attention. Easiest way to go about it is to remove the 3? bolts holding the line to the "motor" on the fan, watch out for the gears not falling and a small "key" about the diameter & length of a pen point, if you lose this hydraulic fan will not work no more. You can also remove it at the pump itself, its a tough job to due to clearance issues, and has a seal that can leak later.
-Depending on driving habits this is a great time to replace rod bearings. The chassis with a decent tire setup can handle more G forces than the poorly baffled oil pan which will starve the pump of oil in the corners and wear out your rod bearings. The middle cylinder on the passenger car seems to be the one to show the most amount of bearing wear every time on these motors. If car has been driven like a grandpa then no need to worry but just saying.
Just my 0.2 cents. Didn't watch the whole video so I may have missed a thing or two but yeah, hoping this helps someone. Thanks for the upload though, there were no tutorials when I did mine, no longer own the car unfortunately.
Good stuff again! Do you know if there are flasher relays for the LS are? I had my instrument cluster replaced years ago and my turn signals are going crazy but my hazards still work. Cant seem to find the relays for it.