Time stamps: 0:12 Basic of RC car electronics 1:45 Start modding: What you need 3:19 How to make normal receiver smaller 5:04 How to install ESC & receiver on the car 5:40 How to connect servo & ESC to receiver 6:50 How to setup the transmitter 9:39 Test drive
Good day Beaver. Would you know how I can connect solder to which points a transponder to the WLToy K989 ESC? Thanks for your time and help. Have a great day.
First of all, thank you for giving me a lot of inspiration, I spent a whole day watching all your videos, I come from China, IW04M and K989 are made in China, this car is for children to play, no one in our forum to DIY, all with money FULL OP. My English is not good, I hope I can understand it. Thanks again.
I grabbed the 20a micro-esc for crawlers for my build, I have a feeling it'll work. It was the only one with brake AND reverse available from a US shipper.
@@BeaversHobby it works great, I wasjust worried cuz it said for crawling, but its fast yet super sensitive and gives great low end control for drifting, and my car is perfect and fun to drive now that it has the gyro in its dumborc reciever. I drilled 2 small holes in its case and screwed it on directly so the gyro feels the car better. Foam tape is too soft for gyros IMO. I highly recommend the combo, especially since banggood has em both in the US warehouse.
Thank you for another awesome video Master Beaver! You helped me with my ma020 previously, with how I could make it work with my NB4 transmitter and it worked really awesome! Unfortunately I fried the servo board plugging in battery power plug when it was already switched on, so waiting on new servo board (PN Racing micro servo). I also purchased a K989 which I will convert to drift car (thank you for awesome videos for that) but currently working through Touring car videos first. If I wanted to do the same thing with the K989 as I did with ma020 (replace ESC, Servo board and receiver) to connect it to my NB4, would I do it in the same way with the same parts (generic ESC, PN racing servo board for mini z and Dasmikro micro receiver for NB4) or would I need to select parts specifically compatible with K989? If I am replacing all of the electronics (apart from motor at this stage) of the K989 I imagine it would work fine. But I am a novice not a Master like you, so thought I would ask. Thank you Master Beaver!
You'll need roughly the same thing except the servo board. A standard servo is already 3-wire ready to go into a new receiver. You might need to change the plug according to the receiver. Next is an ESC depending on the motor. If you want to keep it brushed then DumboRC 10A is the one you need. If you want to upgrade it to brushless then DasMikro is great. That's pretty much it. Changing the electronics on a standard car is way easier than Mini-Z. You can install pretty much anything to it because it's on 3-wire standard.
@@BeaversHobby @Beaver's Hobby Amazing help, thank you so very much for your time and knowledge once again.. I am going to upgrade to brushless, have bought a Fatjay 15A ESC for brushless and a Flysky receiver.. When selecting a brushless motor and servo, are there things I need to look for or brands you prefer? I know you recommend 3500kv motor for drifting, would there be any issue with more power motor dialled back using the NB4? This is the first time I have done any electronics work and I have been enjoying it very much and I have you to thank for it 🙏🙏🙏
@@lukeashton5774 I'm not sure if that ESC is up to the task but if it's the ZTW build like Mini-Q then it's alright. DasMikro is better though. As for the motor you can choose faster motor and adjust the speed via gearing to get more torque or more speed. Faster is more difficult to drive but if you drift in a large area then you'll need that power. Dialing back or limiting the speed with the radio is OK but remember, you still tell it to use a portion of the throttle, the torque and acceleration is still the same. Starting speed is still the same which mean you can potentially touch the throttle and it jump to hi-speed immedieatly. You can also follow my latest build here. ruclips.net/video/j9pO35iaqfo/видео.html
I have been endlessly watching your videos after my recent purchase of the Wltoys 969 and 989. I can't tell you how much help they have been. And you have responded to a couple of my questions with excellent advice. Thank you. I think I have the vehicles running smoothly now except for I would like to upgrade the electronics. I think the transmitter and receiver combo I have settled on is the Radiolink RC4GS V3 2.4G 5 Channels RC Radio Transmitter and Two R6FG Receivers with Gyro Set. Your advice on that set up would be appreciated. The problem I am having is choosing the speed controllers. I have looked at the speed controller that you link to in this video but unfortunately shipping is around a month to get to me. So I'm trying to find something on Amazon with more reasonable shipping time. I am looking at the DKKY 2Pcs RC Motor ESC, 40A Brushed Electric Speed Controller, 6-12.6V but don't know if this is a quality product or if it has the correct plugs for the motor and battery that comes with these cars and if not what plugs I would need. I'm sure you're extremely busy but your advice in helping me find proper speed controllers on the Amazon site or somewhere else that ships to the US with reasonable time would be extremely helpful. Thank you kindly.
You will have to solder the motor plug or wires no matter what so that's not a big concern. The ESC looks nice but I have no info about it. It looks pretty big too. If you are OK with a big ESC then take a look at Hobbywing Quicrun 1625. You will of course need to solder some wires but it's one of the best brushed ESCs in the market.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the response. I will look at the 1625 and probably go with that. I'm fine with soldering. What style connectors do you recommend using for the battery and the motor connections? Before I buy that speed controller what's your recommendation on upgrading to brushless? Longer run times would be great. But my track is pretty small and tight. If so what voltage motor do you recommend?
@@cmkpikes Battery is JST RCY or red JST. It's the proper output from the original battery. The battery plug is JST-XH 2.5mm 2 pin. However you can solder it directly to the motor if you don't want the wires cluttering up your car. As for the brushless upgrade. Take a look at DasMikro V3 ESC, PN Racing V2 or Atomic sensorless ESC. All are good at the fair prices. Just get whichever the cheapest you can find out of the 3. As for the motor the best budget I've tried is Surpass Rocket 1410 V2 or Surpass Rocket Mini-Z V2. There are new ones coming out too but I haven't got them yet.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the reply. And the clarification on the connectors that helped tremendously. Now I know what I'm looking for. As far as your opinion on the brushless I think I will go with that. I was probably going to upgrade that down the road so instead of buying a brushed esc now then upgrading later I think I will just do it now. I found the PN racing micro ESC at Keenan hobby. Will probably go with that. And I found the motors that you recommend but they come in different KV ratings. I am not looking for any more speed it is plenty fast with the stock motor. The other benefits of brushless is my reason to upgrade. Do you know what KV rating is comparable to the stock motor? Is there a KV rating you can recommend or do you have a video explaining the difference?
@@cmkpikes The stock motor is around 3500KV. I don't have a video explaining all he KV difference but the basic is KV = RPM per volt so the higher it is, the faster the motor. In turns the higher the KV, the lower the torque.
Great video and great playlist! I bought my first K969 with LCD trasmitter. Is it normal that i need up to 40% throttle to start moving the wheels? Then i can realease the trigger and the wheels keep rotating down to around 20%. Is it brushed motor's fault?
40% is high so check if the throttle DR is at its maximum first. It sounds more like a sticky drivetrain. But things have improved a lot in the new version. If you let go of the throttle and the wheels don't immediately lock up the you can leave it like that and it'll wear in eventually. You can also try taking it apart to remove the drive shaft and let the motor run without any resistance. If it still needs that much throttle to start spinning then it's the problem with ESC or motor.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for your precious help! :) Indeed if i release the throttle the whells keep turning for a while... I ordered new metal diffs and housing upgrade and bearings... let's see if it makes it less sticky!
Another doubt if i can bother you again: i have the lcd display transmitter and the steering trim regulation is shown on the lcd. The throttle regulation works but the adjustment is not shown on the lcd. The throttle indicator on the display is always in the middle. Is it normal when the transmitter is paired with a K969? 🤔
I've bought a WLToys K969, but I don't like the body. So I was hoping to put the MiniZ Nissan S13 Whitebody on there. Because it looks really nice, but I couldn't find anywhere if/or how it would fit. So the video would help out alot!
I'm sorry to inform you that S13 will not fit because it is 90mm narrow body. WLtoys 1/28 has 98mm adjustable to 102mm wheelbase and it is wide chassis (like MR02-03). So you'll have to look for MR02 and 03 bodies. Here you can find the list of Mini-Z bodies and their wheelbase mini-z-guide.com/bodies.htm
My pleasure. You need to look for a body that is a bit tall though. Otherwise you'll have to mod the shock towers because they are too high especially at the front. I've seen most people go with Audi R8 LMS because it's the widest one there is. I don't know how would it look as a drift car but you can look for "Shane Lynch R8".
Right I was thinking that too. Mostly the MiniZ body's I find are too low. So I did some searching and I couldn't find any good ones (except for the R8). So are there any other brands (with sort of the same quality as Kyosho) out there or should I give up and search for scalemodels with the same wheelbase?
Firelap bodies will also fit but only some of them. There's also R8 and the other one that fits is Aston Martin DBR9. They are hard to find these days. Using scale model for RC body is a bit risky because it is thinner than regular RC car body. Not that you are going to have massive crash from drifting anyway but I think you should keep that in mind.
Hi Beaver. I watched your videos on the whole process of updating the K989 and they are fantstic and really helpful. I just have one question. I've updated the reciever using the FGr4S and NB4 and when I turn it on the servo shifts from middle. How can I make sure that the server stays centered?
Does it keep shifting every time you turn it on so now the servo can't move anymore or it just moved the previous mid point? The first one should not happen but if it does, something is wrong either the radio or the servo. The latter is normal because different radios have different midpoints. Flysky NB4 is slap bang in the 1500ms so the servo might shift a bit and you can fix that by adjusting the steering trim. If it's too much then you can take the servo out, take the horn out (all of it), power it on with 0 trim and re-position the horn so it's close to the center.
@@BeaversHobby Cheers Beaver. Its the second. When its on the original transmitter, when I turn it on, its centered, but when I change over to the NB4 it flicks a long way off center. I'll do the horn fix. Thanks :)
Hello, could you make a video tutorial explaining how to modify the original wltoys radio control to have double speed in the steering wheel and in the throotle? in the link you indicated I did not understand anything...
Radiolink has slightly smaller receiver but apart from that it's pretty similar to GT5 with the same stick resolution. It depends on whether you like drop down wheel design. For me I like it very much and I can upgrade the wheel to one of the aluminium wheel for Futaba and flexibility for battery because it can remove the tray and stick anything that fits inside it.
Hi, sorry if asked before, but what is the protocol in use in wltoys original setup? I'll try to use it with my Frsky joystick transmitter with the irangex module...Thanks
Red plug (it's called JST RCY) is the proper power output plug. It depends on the ESC. You'll that in this video I use red plug for power. However when you buy and ESC especially a small one you'll have to check where the input is. Some ESC has the same red plug for motor and power so plugging it in wrong can kill the ESC.
@@loga_912 Yes, the "better ESC" has the same JST plug for the battery and you can use it directly. Right now the best one for 2S lipo + brushed motor is this bit.ly/3ncu10f
Is it the ESC-receiver you have the same unit as the original one (2-in-1), in that case turn the car on first then turn the radio on and move the steering. It'll bind. Otherwise if you want to use other ESC with the original radio, you'll need to get a receiver like this to use then proceed to do the same as in this video. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000266172703.html However I don't recommend using this because the original radio doesn't have any adjustment and you might need to do channel reversing and that won't work.
@@BeaversHobby the problem I am facing is that my receiver is not working. I can turn wheels left and right, but can't accelerate or break. This is because I connected the battery wrongly by accident. I think something might have been burnt out on the receiver. If I buy just the receiver will it work with my current remote control? Or do I need to buy the bundle (remote control + receiver)? Or do you suggest any other option remote+receiver from another maker that from your experience someone like me can easily make it work?
@@luiscoelho1459 Yes, you can only buy the 2-in-1 unit to replace and it'll work with your old remote. However be sure to get the K989/969 version and don't get the A252 or 1/24 series. It's not the same and you'll have much less steering.
You can bind the original WLtoys 2-in-1 to other transmitter by turning it on first then turn a new transmitter on and move the steering wheel. But if you refer to Radiolink receiver, no, it can't bind to WLtoys transmitter.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the response. I bought a k969 and the transmitter does not work. But I have a transmitter from a wl toys 144001. It will be possible?
@@Dani_Delca No, the 144001 transmitter doesn't work with K969. You can try but mine doesn't. Contact the shop you bought it from and see what can they do. The fault can come from 2 places, either the radio or the 2-in-1 unit. Worst case, you'll have to replace the radio or radio and a new ESC if you want to upgrade it.
I only have knuckles upgrade. All the rest are too expensive to put on this budget car. Even the knuckles aren't that great. My front knuckles are good but the rear have strange dimensions that make the suspension stuck.
No, the motor won't get any cooler, the ESC might get cooler if you get something that supports high Ampre output. The heating problem mostly comes from sticky drivetrain. I suggest you fix it if you haven't done that yet. The tutorial is the episode 1 of this series.
Hi dude, I recieved 2 sinohobby 20c esc in the post today...... I was wondering if you know if they come equipped with low voltage cut off? Thank you dude
@@tomwright943 OK. If it looks like the one in this video you don't have cutoff. ruclips.net/video/-Huh1k9pAKg/видео.html If it looks like this. It's not cut-off but it has buzzer to tell you the battery is low. You'll need buzzer for that. www.banggood.com/DumboRC-10A-Brushed-ESC-Two-Way-Speed-Controller-with-Brake-for-RC-Vehicle-Models-Car-Boat-Tank-Airplane-p-1542488.html Buzzer to install to the esc. www.banggood.com/5-PCS-Super-Loud-5V-Active-Alarm-Buzzer-Beeper-Tracker-95_5mm-for-Racing-Drone-p-1117207.html
😳it looks like the one you said was terrible in the video😳 I did order the dumborc and buzzers when you suggested them the other day but I had ordered the sinohobby esc before we had spoken 😂 I hope it's not the one you said was bad in the other video 😳👍
Hi you mentioned that it’s possible to bind the stock 2 in 1 esc receiver of k989 to a stock 144001 transmitter. How do I do this? I am trying to do this but it won’t bind?
@@jct4111 No, it won't. However there's a similar receiver+ESC from Sinohobby that will bind to Flysky GT3C. bit.ly/2XIUebF I'd say using a separated ESC is better if you already have a receiver.
Unfortunately, no. Even though it has a separate receiver this transmitter doesn't have channel reversing and dual rates so it doesn't have the adjustability to make it work.
@@woutchauvaux6672 For brushed motor there's Hobbywing 1625 that has cutoff vut it's still quite big. There's also DumboRC 10A www.aliexpress.com/item/4000136024457.html which is small and it's really good but you'll have to add your own 5V buzzer on that and it'll beep when the battery is low. As for brushless, the best budget right now is DasMikro, you'll need to program it to have cutoff though. bit.ly/3h07teH
I got a question at 8:38 Why did you swaped the wires instead of switching it in the transmitter? I'm sure with that many features it KNOWS that... C'mon D:
Because I want forward-brake-reverse function on the ESC. Sure, switching from the transmitter which is the channel reverse will make it run opposite direction but that is the command sent to the ESC. The ESC has to work correctly first, by which I mean forward when I pull the trigger, then brake when I switch from forward to reverse immediately, then return to centre and push it again to go in to reverse. If I switch this in the transmitter it will go directly from forward to reverse and then from reverse it will have brake, then forward which is in the wrong direction. I hope this is not too complicated but I also explained at 7:29 . The ESC function has to be correct first. ps. I forgot to say there are some ESC that can program to do reverse motor direction too but they are not very common.
It's 1/10 size, right? ESC should be at least Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 bit.ly/2JQNyA1. Servo is pretty much any standard servo for 1/10 like this, 9KG should be ehough bit.ly/2x73Fqz then you'll have to mod the standard mount to work with it. As for the radio, Radiolink RC4GS bit.ly/2WSjb0G will work just fine.
Do you know where it's coming from? Is it on the black box on the car? If so I presume it's from the steering trim is not centre and the ESC tries to send power to the motor when it's idle. Try and press the TH. TRIM on the radio (the bottom 2 buttons) press either of that about 2-3 times first and if you don't hear long beep from the radio, press the other one until you hear long beep. This will centre the throttle trim.
You got it ! Spot on and thanks for the quick reply , we took it outside today on some loose asphalt surface and it bent the drive shaft and destroyed the drive gears where small grit got into the gears . Would recommend indoor use only . I used the spare gears and straightened the shaft and all is ok again , only thing is I have 1 of the large headed screws left and I can't see where it goes , 4 in the PCB retaining alu strip then I don't know where ?? Thanks
How expensive was the receiver and esc I wanna do this but I only have 20 bucks lol edit:nvm I think I’ll go with the stock one cuz need to save my money
The cheapest you can do to have end point adjustment is with Flysky GT3B and 20A ESC which will cost about 35 USD so.. yep.. you're more than half way there. www.ebay.com/itm/FlySky-FS-GT3B-2-4GHz-3CH-20DB-RC-Boat-Control-Gun-Transmitter-w-TX-Receiver/253810402418?hash=item3b18476472:g:z8QAAOSwW3dbb173 www.ebay.com/itm/RC-ESC-20A-Brush-Motor-Speed-Controller-w-Brake-for-RC-Car-Boat-Tank-New-EL/282618824619?hash=item41cd6507ab%3Ag%3AmdMAAOSwEN9baVy0&LH_BIN=1
The one is this video has same plug as WLtoys. Nowadays I don't think you can find this. Last time I checked it got updated to a new version with only pins, that will work without changing plug too. (I also have it.) But if you choose other ESC then you might want to change the plug to JST-XH 2.5mm 2 pin.
Yes, you can. You can use the same type of plug on both battery and motor because it doesn't draw that much amps anyway. The reason I use JST for battery and the JST-XH for motor is I didn't want to change the plug on motor and the XH plug was readily available on this ESC. It was only the matter of convenience.
This one is better. P33 is good only because it works with original electronics. Radiolink is also better if you stay in hobby and buy other cars so you can build kit and already have a good transmitter. ps. Sorry for late reply.
This was an old small brushed ESC. Nowadays I recommend the DumboRC 10A as it's much smoother. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006979640777.htmlOr better still, if you have more space inside the car then I highly recommend Hobbywing Quicrun 1625.
This time, RCmart www.rcmart.com/kyosho-mzn156-lexus-sc430-gt500-2012white-body-p-68796.html?cPath=438_2067_1142 . Actually it's a bit cheaper at Banzaihobby but I got it with something else so I saved a bit through shipping. banzaihobby.com/kyosho-MZN156
is it possible that my stock circuit board is defective if only the steering works but not the "go" and "reverse"? I have a brand new k989 wl drift, and only played it once but then after awhile it did'nt move forward and backward already...only the steering. By the way the red light on the circuit board always blinks now..it never goes steady.
I never got this problem before but blinking mostly means loosing bind. You can try setting the transmitter to bind mode by hold one of the trim buttons, if I remember correctly the second one from the top and then turn on the transmitter. Then turn the car on. Or turn the car on first and transmitter second and see if that does anything. Otherwise you might have a defective 2-in-1 (circuit board). Also, steering works but no forward and reverse sounds like faulty circuit board anyway. So try re-bind if first, if that doesn't work you can file a claim to where every you bought it from for defective product.
Wheels from Mini-Q and tyres are from Firelap and Tamiya Mini4WD. You can catch this upgrade in episode 3 here ruclips.net/video/5jCfcT48LXU/видео.html (links to wheels and tyres are in description)
Agreed. Even without sensor a decent brushless motor will turn this car in to a rocket. Such a shame I don't have a proper RCP or carpet track to unleash its full potential.
@@BeaversHobby I mean I don't even know if sensored brushless of this size exists. But with sensored and good tx it should be able to smoothly start instead of this stock behavior of sudden jump start. Really wanted to pair this with my MT-4 but I'm worried that it won't solve that problem without sensored brushless.. At 11:10 I can see it still does that :)
@@brahmoone It wouldn't jump if the ESC was better. Stock ESC doesn't jump, Hobbywing 1625 that I use for drifting doesn't jump. Even cheap brushless setup like Surpass Hobby 1415 with XC-10A ESC doesn't jump. Sure, it cogs a bit at the start. This ESC though... If you really want sensored brushless you should check out Swave. shop.ensotech.ltd/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76 ppm-rcracing.com/products/6200-Combo-Pack-%28Swave-E2-%252b-ARR-6200kv-Motor-version-2%29.html Otherwise Atomic ESC will fire up pretty much anything and it's pretty smooth too.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the links. looks like a great product. so you're saying the cogs are just a bit? honestly I never had an unsensored brushless motor before, just went back from 5 years of abstain of 1/10 and 1/8. I had Xeruns for electric but seems like they're all gone now? maybe I'll just try that Surpass Hobby 1415. indoor mini is great, no long cleaning up session after playing unlike outdoor buggies lol. To be honest the stock brushed seems pretty good now after tuning the drivetrain :) Other question: how's this mini servo? do I need BEC or does it handle the 2s directly?
@@brahmoone Yes, it does cog but barely noticeable. As for the servo normally you won't need UBEC. Just ESC can provide enough power and so far near 6V hasn't kill this one yet. Some ESC does output exactly 5V though, like XC-10A and Hobbywing 1625.
What you see in the video is Hobbywing EZrun 18A with Surpass Hobby 1410 motor but I suggest 2 types of setup. Budget setup Motor Surpass Hobby 1410 : goo.gl/arADH4 ESC XC-10A: Yuo can fin this in Hobbyking and Aliexpress, here' the hobbyking: hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-brushless-car-esc-10a-w-reverse.html You'll also need programming card: hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-programming-card-for-car-esc.html Then the one with Hobbywing is not that cheap but will turn your car in to a rocket. Motor Scorpion 9500KV: www.asiatees.com/display?Miscellaneous-All-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=104548&pid=1 ESC Hobbywing Ezrun 18A: www.ebay.com/itm/HobbyWing-18A-ESC-1-18th-Scale-EZRUN-18A-SL-Brushless-Motor-Speed-Controller/173274548139
Yes, here are the list of Mini-Z and Firelap bodies and also 1/24 scale model. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/3/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY/edit#gid=0
@@rollinthunder8671 If you got the BRZ from Mini-Z then it's gonna be very hard to make it fit. WLtoys is 98mm wheelbase, wide chassis while BRZ is 94mm wheelbase narrow. So you'll have to cut the body for longer wheelbase and make a widebody kit for it.
Beaver's Hobby could you take off the housing on the hobbywing though? Most of my 1/10 and 1/8 scale esc’s could have the housing removed. Its just better to leave the heat sink on to reduce risk of ripping anything out...
@@nullnull5185 It doesn't make much difference because of the waterproofing sticking the board to the case. Unless you can remove the waterproofing on the board, I believe it's silicone.
Hi beaver, just to say: in the video comments it's written: "Better ESC than in this video: bit.ly/2XZUhMM" I wanted to give you the info that this particular ESC as no brake functionality between front and rear (I have test it both sides)
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Time stamps:
0:12 Basic of RC car electronics
1:45 Start modding: What you need
3:19 How to make normal receiver smaller
5:04 How to install ESC & receiver on the car
5:40 How to connect servo & ESC to receiver
6:50 How to setup the transmitter
9:39 Test drive
Good day Beaver. Would you know how I can connect solder to which points a transponder to the WLToy K989 ESC? Thanks for your time and help. Have a great day.
Really lookinh forward to upgrading mine with a bunch of aluminum parts.
I really appreciate your videos! This receiver mod was a good idea. Nice and easy, but makes a big difference in size.
Thank you so much for sharing this👍it definitely answers my tx/rx question from the other day👍
First of all, thank you for giving me a lot of inspiration, I spent a whole day watching all your videos, I come from China, IW04M and K989 are made in China, this car is for children to play, no one in our forum to DIY, all with money FULL OP. My English is not good, I hope I can understand it. Thanks again.
Thanks for your comment. This is a really good car. IW04M is really tough and I'm glad they re-produce it.
NOW is IW05M,you can see the Official network
I grabbed the 20a micro-esc for crawlers for my build, I have a feeling it'll work. It was the only one with brake AND reverse available from a US shipper.
As long as it fits inside the body it'll be alright.
@@BeaversHobby it works great, I wasjust worried cuz it said for crawling, but its fast yet super sensitive and gives great low end control for drifting, and my car is perfect and fun to drive now that it has the gyro in its dumborc reciever. I drilled 2 small holes in its case and screwed it on directly so the gyro feels the car better. Foam tape is too soft for gyros IMO.
I highly recommend the combo, especially since banggood has em both in the US warehouse.
@@NeoIsrafil Nice! Thanks for sharing.
I love your videos. Thanks for posting!
Thank you for another awesome video Master Beaver! You helped me with my ma020 previously, with how I could make it work with my NB4 transmitter and it worked really awesome! Unfortunately I fried the servo board plugging in battery power plug when it was already switched on, so waiting on new servo board (PN Racing micro servo). I also purchased a K989 which I will convert to drift car (thank you for awesome videos for that) but currently working through Touring car videos first. If I wanted to do the same thing with the K989 as I did with ma020 (replace ESC, Servo board and receiver) to connect it to my NB4, would I do it in the same way with the same parts (generic ESC, PN racing servo board for mini z and Dasmikro micro receiver for NB4) or would I need to select parts specifically compatible with K989? If I am replacing all of the electronics (apart from motor at this stage) of the K989 I imagine it would work fine. But I am a novice not a Master like you, so thought I would ask. Thank you Master Beaver!
You'll need roughly the same thing except the servo board. A standard servo is already 3-wire ready to go into a new receiver. You might need to change the plug according to the receiver. Next is an ESC depending on the motor. If you want to keep it brushed then DumboRC 10A is the one you need. If you want to upgrade it to brushless then DasMikro is great. That's pretty much it. Changing the electronics on a standard car is way easier than Mini-Z. You can install pretty much anything to it because it's on 3-wire standard.
@@BeaversHobby @Beaver's Hobby Amazing help, thank you so very much for your time and knowledge once again.. I am going to upgrade to brushless, have bought a Fatjay 15A ESC for brushless and a Flysky receiver.. When selecting a brushless motor and servo, are there things I need to look for or brands you prefer? I know you recommend 3500kv motor for drifting, would there be any issue with more power motor dialled back using the NB4? This is the first time I have done any electronics work and I have been enjoying it very much and I have you to thank for it 🙏🙏🙏
@@lukeashton5774 I'm not sure if that ESC is up to the task but if it's the ZTW build like Mini-Q then it's alright. DasMikro is better though.
As for the motor you can choose faster motor and adjust the speed via gearing to get more torque or more speed. Faster is more difficult to drive but if you drift in a large area then you'll need that power. Dialing back or limiting the speed with the radio is OK but remember, you still tell it to use a portion of the throttle, the torque and acceleration is still the same. Starting speed is still the same which mean you can potentially touch the throttle and it jump to hi-speed immedieatly.
You can also follow my latest build here. ruclips.net/video/j9pO35iaqfo/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby thank you so much for the info, I will do some more research.. I bought the ESC a bit prematurely 😅 ✌️✌️✌️
You are a MOD GOD!!!
I have been endlessly watching your videos after my recent purchase of the Wltoys 969 and 989. I can't tell you how much help they have been. And you have responded to a couple of my questions with excellent advice. Thank you. I think I have the vehicles running smoothly now except for I would like to upgrade the electronics. I think the transmitter and receiver combo I have settled on is the Radiolink RC4GS V3 2.4G 5 Channels RC Radio Transmitter and Two R6FG Receivers with Gyro Set. Your advice on that set up would be appreciated. The problem I am having is choosing the speed controllers. I have looked at the speed controller that you link to in this video but unfortunately shipping is around a month to get to me. So I'm trying to find something on Amazon with more reasonable shipping time. I am looking at the DKKY 2Pcs RC Motor ESC, 40A Brushed Electric Speed Controller, 6-12.6V but don't know if this is a quality product or if it has the correct plugs for the motor and battery that comes with these cars and if not what plugs I would need. I'm sure you're extremely busy but your advice in helping me find proper speed controllers on the Amazon site or somewhere else that ships to the US with reasonable time would be extremely helpful. Thank you kindly.
You will have to solder the motor plug or wires no matter what so that's not a big concern. The ESC looks nice but I have no info about it. It looks pretty big too. If you are OK with a big ESC then take a look at Hobbywing Quicrun 1625. You will of course need to solder some wires but it's one of the best brushed ESCs in the market.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the response. I will look at the 1625 and probably go with that. I'm fine with soldering. What style connectors do you recommend using for the battery and the motor connections? Before I buy that speed controller what's your recommendation on upgrading to brushless? Longer run times would be great. But my track is pretty small and tight. If so what voltage motor do you recommend?
@@cmkpikes Battery is JST RCY or red JST. It's the proper output from the original battery. The battery plug is JST-XH 2.5mm 2 pin. However you can solder it directly to the motor if you don't want the wires cluttering up your car.
As for the brushless upgrade. Take a look at DasMikro V3 ESC, PN Racing V2 or Atomic sensorless ESC. All are good at the fair prices. Just get whichever the cheapest you can find out of the 3. As for the motor the best budget I've tried is Surpass Rocket 1410 V2 or Surpass Rocket Mini-Z V2. There are new ones coming out too but I haven't got them yet.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the reply. And the clarification on the connectors that helped tremendously. Now I know what I'm looking for. As far as your opinion on the brushless I think I will go with that. I was probably going to upgrade that down the road so instead of buying a brushed esc now then upgrading later I think I will just do it now. I found the PN racing micro ESC at Keenan hobby. Will probably go with that. And I found the motors that you recommend but they come in different KV ratings. I am not looking for any more speed it is plenty fast with the stock motor. The other benefits of brushless is my reason to upgrade. Do you know what KV rating is comparable to the stock motor? Is there a KV rating you can recommend or do you have a video explaining the difference?
@@cmkpikes The stock motor is around 3500KV. I don't have a video explaining all he KV difference but the basic is KV = RPM per volt so the higher it is, the faster the motor. In turns the higher the KV, the lower the torque.
Great info man👍🏻
Great video and great playlist! I bought my first K969 with LCD trasmitter. Is it normal that i need up to 40% throttle to start moving the wheels? Then i can realease the trigger and the wheels keep rotating down to around 20%. Is it brushed motor's fault?
40% is high so check if the throttle DR is at its maximum first.
It sounds more like a sticky drivetrain. But things have improved a lot in the new version. If you let go of the throttle and the wheels don't immediately lock up the you can leave it like that and it'll wear in eventually.
You can also try taking it apart to remove the drive shaft and let the motor run without any resistance. If it still needs that much throttle to start spinning then it's the problem with ESC or motor.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for your precious help! :) Indeed if i release the throttle the whells keep turning for a while... I ordered new metal diffs and housing upgrade and bearings... let's see if it makes it less sticky!
Another doubt if i can bother you again: i have the lcd display transmitter and the steering trim regulation is shown on the lcd. The throttle regulation works but the adjustment is not shown on the lcd. The throttle indicator on the display is always in the middle. Is it normal when the transmitter is paired with a K969? 🤔
@@middleclassproject I think it is. The screen is very simple and doesn't really show much in the first place.
Awesome stuff 👍💪
I've bought a WLToys K969, but I don't like the body. So I was hoping to put the MiniZ Nissan S13 Whitebody on there. Because it looks really nice, but I couldn't find anywhere if/or how it would fit. So the video would help out alot!
I'm sorry to inform you that S13 will not fit because it is 90mm narrow body. WLtoys 1/28 has 98mm adjustable to 102mm wheelbase and it is wide chassis (like MR02-03). So you'll have to look for MR02 and 03 bodies.
Here you can find the list of Mini-Z bodies and their wheelbase mini-z-guide.com/bodies.htm
Thanks for the quick answer, then I'll have to search for a mr02/03 body that also will look like a cool driftmissile.
My pleasure. You need to look for a body that is a bit tall though. Otherwise you'll have to mod the shock towers because they are too high especially at the front.
I've seen most people go with Audi R8 LMS because it's the widest one there is. I don't know how would it look as a drift car but you can look for "Shane Lynch R8".
Right I was thinking that too. Mostly the MiniZ body's I find are too low. So I did some searching and I couldn't find any good ones (except for the R8). So are there any other brands (with sort of the same quality as Kyosho) out there or should I give up and search for scalemodels with the same wheelbase?
Firelap bodies will also fit but only some of them. There's also R8 and the other one that fits is Aston Martin DBR9. They are hard to find these days. Using scale model for RC body is a bit risky because it is thinner than regular RC car body. Not that you are going to have massive crash from drifting anyway but I think you should keep that in mind.
Hi Beaver. I watched your videos on the whole process of updating the K989 and they are fantstic and really helpful. I just have one question. I've updated the reciever using the FGr4S and NB4 and when I turn it on the servo shifts from middle. How can I make sure that the server stays centered?
Does it keep shifting every time you turn it on so now the servo can't move anymore or it just moved the previous mid point?
The first one should not happen but if it does, something is wrong either the radio or the servo.
The latter is normal because different radios have different midpoints. Flysky NB4 is slap bang in the 1500ms so the servo might shift a bit and you can fix that by adjusting the steering trim. If it's too much then you can take the servo out, take the horn out (all of it), power it on with 0 trim and re-position the horn so it's close to the center.
@@BeaversHobby Cheers Beaver. Its the second. When its on the original transmitter, when I turn it on, its centered, but when I change over to the NB4 it flicks a long way off center. I'll do the horn fix. Thanks :)
@@KieranBriggs My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Is there any esc come with the same motor plug as the k989's motor plug
No, there is none. Unfortunately you'll have to do soldering whenever there's anything ESC related.
Hello, could you make a video tutorial explaining how to modify the original wltoys radio control to have double speed in the steering wheel and in the throotle? in the link you indicated I did not understand anything...
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm adding dual rate mod for WLtoys transmitter to the list of video I'm going to do.
Hello. Thanks for posting! Today, which is the best? the FS-GT5 or RC6GS? For the K969
Either RC6GS or RC4GS. Actually RC4GS is better because it's cheaper and you won't need that many channels for this car anyway.
Thanks for the vids.
Will need a better esc for the 9500kv build
That surface you need very soft rubber or silicon tires for it to stick well enough, but its a perfect surface for drift.
How do you like the RadioLink TX? I'm eyeballing to the FlySky Gt5 or the RadioLink RC6Gs. Not sure which one I should get.
Radiolink has slightly smaller receiver but apart from that it's pretty similar to GT5 with the same stick resolution. It depends on whether you like drop down wheel design. For me I like it very much and I can upgrade the wheel to one of the aluminium wheel for Futaba and flexibility for battery because it can remove the tray and stick anything that fits inside it.
Hi, sorry if asked before, but what is the protocol in use in wltoys original setup? I'll try to use it with my Frsky joystick transmitter with the irangex module...Thanks
V2X2
@@BeaversHobby Thanks a lot!
@@putimir My pleasure.
Could u please tell me what prop shaft I need for metal upgrade gears (standard shaft end fittings don’t fit)
From what I've seen the metal prop shaft gears come with the shaft. I've never got it though.
Hey beaver, Theres a plug in red colour on the stock k989 battery, cant we plug that on the esc's red plug? Wont it connect the battery to esc??
Red plug (it's called JST RCY) is the proper power output plug.
It depends on the ESC. You'll that in this video I use red plug for power. However when you buy and ESC especially a small one you'll have to check where the input is. Some ESC has the same red plug for motor and power so plugging it in wrong can kill the ESC.
@@BeaversHobby The Esc u gave in description. Can we use it ?
@@loga_912 Yes, the "better ESC" has the same JST plug for the battery and you can use it directly. Right now the best one for 2S lipo + brushed motor is this bit.ly/3ncu10f
can you tell me the link for the sinohobby pcb esc with the 2-pin jst 2.5 plug already in it
Unfortunately it is not available anymore.
Nice Video i Like all your videos
Dear Beaver, can you help me understand how can I synchronize a new ESC receiver to the original remote control on the K969 model?
Is it the ESC-receiver you have the same unit as the original one (2-in-1), in that case turn the car on first then turn the radio on and move the steering. It'll bind.
Otherwise if you want to use other ESC with the original radio, you'll need to get a receiver like this to use then proceed to do the same as in this video. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000266172703.html
However I don't recommend using this because the original radio doesn't have any adjustment and you might need to do channel reversing and that won't work.
@@BeaversHobby the problem I am facing is that my receiver is not working. I can turn wheels left and right, but can't accelerate or break. This is because I connected the battery wrongly by accident. I think something might have been burnt out on the receiver. If I buy just the receiver will it work with my current remote control? Or do I need to buy the bundle (remote control + receiver)?
Or do you suggest any other option remote+receiver from another maker that from your experience someone like me can easily make it work?
@@luiscoelho1459 Yes, you can only buy the 2-in-1 unit to replace and it'll work with your old remote. However be sure to get the K989/969 version and don't get the A252 or 1/24 series. It's not the same and you'll have much less steering.
Hi! How I can bind that receiver to other wl toys transmitter?
Thanks I love your videos!
You can bind the original WLtoys 2-in-1 to other transmitter by turning it on first then turn a new transmitter on and move the steering wheel.
But if you refer to Radiolink receiver, no, it can't bind to WLtoys transmitter.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the response. I bought a k969 and the transmitter does not work. But I have a transmitter from a wl toys 144001. It will be possible?
@@Dani_Delca No, the 144001 transmitter doesn't work with K969. You can try but mine doesn't. Contact the shop you bought it from and see what can they do. The fault can come from 2 places, either the radio or the 2-in-1 unit. Worst case, you'll have to replace the radio or radio and a new ESC if you want to upgrade it.
@@BeaversHobby Also I have a flysky gt3b, Ill buy a new esc like your video. Thanks for all mate!
@@Dani_Delca My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Did you have a k989 in full Aluminium Upgrade ? I would love See it
I only have knuckles upgrade. All the rest are too expensive to put on this budget car. Even the knuckles aren't that great. My front knuckles are good but the rear have strange dimensions that make the suspension stuck.
My stock esc/motor gets very hot ...will they run cooler with this upgrade? Thanks
No, the motor won't get any cooler, the ESC might get cooler if you get something that supports high Ampre output. The heating problem mostly comes from sticky drivetrain. I suggest you fix it if you haven't done that yet. The tutorial is the episode 1 of this series.
@@BeaversHobby thanku for swift reply u have saved me time and money 👍
Dear, thanks for vidéo. How do you take laps time please?
I used my action camera Yi 4K and recorded it in timelapse mode.
@@BeaversHobby thanks ☺️
@@giorgiocastro My pleasure.
Hi dude, I recieved 2 sinohobby 20c esc in the post today...... I was wondering if you know if they come equipped with low voltage cut off? Thank you dude
Brushless ESC? Yes, it has low voltage cutoff already. You don't need programming card to set it unless you want it to cut at higher voltage.
Sorry...... I forgot to say it's the brushed sinohobby esc 👍
@@tomwright943 OK. If it looks like the one in this video you don't have cutoff. ruclips.net/video/-Huh1k9pAKg/видео.html
If it looks like this. It's not cut-off but it has buzzer to tell you the battery is low. You'll need buzzer for that. www.banggood.com/DumboRC-10A-Brushed-ESC-Two-Way-Speed-Controller-with-Brake-for-RC-Vehicle-Models-Car-Boat-Tank-Airplane-p-1542488.html
Buzzer to install to the esc.
www.banggood.com/5-PCS-Super-Loud-5V-Active-Alarm-Buzzer-Beeper-Tracker-95_5mm-for-Racing-Drone-p-1117207.html
😳it looks like the one you said was terrible in the video😳 I did order the dumborc and buzzers when you suggested them the other day but I had ordered the sinohobby esc before we had spoken 😂 I hope it's not the one you said was bad in the other video 😳👍
@@tomwright943 Hopefully you got a good one. If it's not smooth with 2S lipo, it should work pretty well with 1S.
I love you! But in principle, even brushless motors do not depend on the cable orders.
Hi you mentioned that it’s possible to bind the stock 2 in 1 esc receiver of k989 to a stock 144001 transmitter. How do I do this? I am trying to do this but it won’t bind?
The 144001 is a different protocol so it can't bind to K989.
Beaver's Hobby ok thank you so much man. Would the fly sky gt3b bind to the k989 stock receiver?
@@jct4111 No, it won't. However there's a similar receiver+ESC from Sinohobby that will bind to Flysky GT3C. bit.ly/2XIUebF
I'd say using a separated ESC is better if you already have a receiver.
Beaver's Hobby thanks a lot. Do you know if this exact item is available on AliExpress?
@@jct4111 Unfortunately I can't find it on Aliexpress.
Do we need to calibrate the "better ESC" you recommand? If so, how to do it?
Thanks!
No, the Hobbywing 1625, DumboRC and Unbranded Mini-Z 30A ESC don't have any calibration.
@@BeaversHobby thank you
@@cyrilleviel5718 My pleasure.
Hi, can i use the Transmitter from the wltoys 144001 for the k969?
No, you can't. The 144001 transmitter has a different protocol variation.
@@BeaversHobby ok. Thank you!
@@christianp1574 My pleasure.
Can I use the original wltoys transmitter for new esc of brushless motor?
Unfortunately, no. Even though it has a separate receiver this transmitter doesn't have channel reversing and dual rates so it doesn't have the adjustability to make it work.
@@BeaversHobby 😭😭😭😭 so new transmitter! Imma gonna get broke😂 this rc cars will leave me homeless
@@anshaldrin1346 Totally understand that. A decent one, Turbo Racing P32 starts at $30 and that's like half of the cost of the car already.
for the cheaper brushed ESC which one u will recommend? since this mini q one not smooth on the beginning throttle.
This one is perfect. bit.ly/2XZUhMM
Here's the video ruclips.net/video/-Huh1k9pAKg/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby is there any other good esc with built in low voltage alarm?
@@woutchauvaux6672 For brushed motor there's Hobbywing 1625 that has cutoff vut it's still quite big. There's also DumboRC 10A www.aliexpress.com/item/4000136024457.html which is small and it's really good but you'll have to add your own 5V buzzer on that and it'll beep when the battery is low.
As for brushless, the best budget right now is DasMikro, you'll need to program it to have cutoff though. bit.ly/3h07teH
I got a question at 8:38 Why did you swaped the wires instead of switching it in the transmitter? I'm sure with that many features it KNOWS that... C'mon D:
Because I want forward-brake-reverse function on the ESC. Sure, switching from the transmitter which is the channel reverse will make it run opposite direction but that is the command sent to the ESC.
The ESC has to work correctly first, by which I mean forward when I pull the trigger, then brake when I switch from forward to reverse immediately, then return to centre and push it again to go in to reverse. If I switch this in the transmitter it will go directly from forward to reverse and then from reverse it will have brake, then forward which is in the wrong direction.
I hope this is not too complicated but I also explained at 7:29 . The ESC function has to be correct first.
ps. I forgot to say there are some ESC that can program to do reverse motor direction too but they are not very common.
Hi... im using wltoys 104311 crawler... i want to upgrade the esc and so on. Please suggest me the upgrade components
It's 1/10 size, right? ESC should be at least Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 bit.ly/2JQNyA1. Servo is pretty much any standard servo for 1/10 like this, 9KG should be ehough bit.ly/2x73Fqz then you'll have to mod the standard mount to work with it. As for the radio, Radiolink RC4GS bit.ly/2WSjb0G will work just fine.
Yup... wow. Thx for the quick response. Glad to have someone that very expert and kind like you. Ill support ur vids and advice. Thx once again.
@@wdyent8056 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
My son's car like this is making a beeping noise, any ideas of the problem ? Thanks
Do you know where it's coming from? Is it on the black box on the car? If so I presume it's from the steering trim is not centre and the ESC tries to send power to the motor when it's idle. Try and press the TH. TRIM on the radio (the bottom 2 buttons) press either of that about 2-3 times first and if you don't hear long beep from the radio, press the other one until you hear long beep. This will centre the throttle trim.
You got it ! Spot on and thanks for the quick reply , we took it outside today on some loose asphalt surface and it bent the drive shaft and destroyed the drive gears where small grit got into the gears . Would recommend indoor use only . I used the spare gears and straightened the shaft and all is ok again , only thing is I have 1 of the large headed screws left and I can't see where it goes , 4 in the PCB retaining alu strip then I don't know where ?? Thanks
@@topfuelteddy Glad it works. There are 5 button head screws on the top plate, 4 on all corners and 1 in the centre on top of motor mount.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks , I see it now , much appreciated 👍
@@topfuelteddy My pleasure. Good luck and have fun!
How expensive was the receiver and esc I wanna do this but I only have 20 bucks lol edit:nvm I think I’ll go with the stock one cuz need to save my money
The cheapest you can do to have end point adjustment is with Flysky GT3B and 20A ESC which will cost about 35 USD so.. yep.. you're more than half way there.
www.ebay.com/itm/FlySky-FS-GT3B-2-4GHz-3CH-20DB-RC-Boat-Control-Gun-Transmitter-w-TX-Receiver/253810402418?hash=item3b18476472:g:z8QAAOSwW3dbb173
www.ebay.com/itm/RC-ESC-20A-Brush-Motor-Speed-Controller-w-Brake-for-RC-Car-Boat-Tank-New-EL/282618824619?hash=item41cd6507ab%3Ag%3AmdMAAOSwEN9baVy0&LH_BIN=1
Beaver's Hobby maybe I’ll get it for passing my semi final test in 2 weeks
Hey dude just wondering if the 20A esc has the same motor plug as Wltoys or do you have to solder them in
The one is this video has same plug as WLtoys. Nowadays I don't think you can find this. Last time I checked it got updated to a new version with only pins, that will work without changing plug too. (I also have it.)
But if you choose other ESC then you might want to change the plug to JST-XH 2.5mm 2 pin.
Beaver's Hobby damn do you know any other esc with the Wltoys motor plug
Boa noite. Onde posso conseguir peças de reposição? Obrigado.
Most of the parts are on Banggood.com . You can search for "K989". The other place is hobbyking.com .
Is the blue wire on the quicrun esc is red wire usually...?
I don't remember exactly. But blue usually means ground, so it's black wire.
Hello, can the jst plug power up the motor and esc? Is it the same concept used for jst-xh plug to give it power ?
Yes, you can. You can use the same type of plug on both battery and motor because it doesn't draw that much amps anyway.
The reason I use JST for battery and the JST-XH for motor is I didn't want to change the plug on motor and the XH plug was readily available on this ESC. It was only the matter of convenience.
Wich one better wltoys p33 or this one transmiter
This one is better.
P33 is good only because it works with original electronics. Radiolink is also better if you stay in hobby and buy other cars so you can build kit and already have a good transmitter.
ps. Sorry for late reply.
@@BeaversHobby iam new ur fans in mini RC lol ty so much sir i like ur video all ggwp
@@AchenkTamiyaCreatorbuilder4wd My pleasure.
What esc did you ise
This was an old small brushed ESC. Nowadays I recommend the DumboRC 10A as it's much smoother. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006979640777.htmlOr better still, if you have more space inside the car then I highly recommend Hobbywing Quicrun 1625.
Thanks alot
Can i use this transmiter with the original control?
Check my multiprotocol video here. Actually I'm using it now but haven't made a video update yet.
ruclips.net/video/zJmg_gv34us/видео.html
Woah where’d you get that sc430 body?
This time, RCmart www.rcmart.com/kyosho-mzn156-lexus-sc430-gt500-2012white-body-p-68796.html?cPath=438_2067_1142 .
Actually it's a bit cheaper at Banzaihobby but I got it with something else so I saved a bit through shipping.
banzaihobby.com/kyosho-MZN156
Beaver's Hobby ok. I have a modded hsv and a modded supra body.
is it possible that my stock circuit board is defective if only the steering works but not the "go" and "reverse"? I have a brand new k989 wl drift, and only played it once but then after awhile it did'nt move forward and backward already...only the steering. By the way the red light on the circuit board always blinks now..it never goes steady.
I never got this problem before but blinking mostly means loosing bind. You can try setting the transmitter to bind mode by hold one of the trim buttons, if I remember correctly the second one from the top and then turn on the transmitter. Then turn the car on. Or turn the car on first and transmitter second and see if that does anything. Otherwise you might have a defective 2-in-1 (circuit board).
Also, steering works but no forward and reverse sounds like faulty circuit board anyway. So try re-bind if first, if that doesn't work you can file a claim to where every you bought it from for defective product.
ok tnx....ill try. hope it works.
Wheres are the wheels and tires from?
Wheels from Mini-Q and tyres are from Firelap and Tamiya Mini4WD.
You can catch this upgrade in episode 3 here ruclips.net/video/5jCfcT48LXU/видео.html (links to wheels and tyres are in description)
Well those competition tx rxs will be a waste with such brushed setup. Sensored brushless is needed.
Agreed. Even without sensor a decent brushless motor will turn this car in to a rocket. Such a shame I don't have a proper RCP or carpet track to unleash its full potential.
@@BeaversHobby I mean I don't even know if sensored brushless of this size exists. But with sensored and good tx it should be able to smoothly start instead of this stock behavior of sudden jump start. Really wanted to pair this with my MT-4 but I'm worried that it won't solve that problem without sensored brushless.. At 11:10 I can see it still does that :)
@@brahmoone It wouldn't jump if the ESC was better. Stock ESC doesn't jump, Hobbywing 1625 that I use for drifting doesn't jump.
Even cheap brushless setup like Surpass Hobby 1415 with XC-10A ESC doesn't jump. Sure, it cogs a bit at the start. This ESC though...
If you really want sensored brushless you should check out Swave.
shop.ensotech.ltd/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76
ppm-rcracing.com/products/6200-Combo-Pack-%28Swave-E2-%252b-ARR-6200kv-Motor-version-2%29.html
Otherwise Atomic ESC will fire up pretty much anything and it's pretty smooth too.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the links. looks like a great product. so you're saying the cogs are just a bit? honestly I never had an unsensored brushless motor before, just went back from 5 years of abstain of 1/10 and 1/8. I had Xeruns for electric but seems like they're all gone now? maybe I'll just try that Surpass Hobby 1415. indoor mini is great, no long cleaning up session after playing unlike outdoor buggies lol. To be honest the stock brushed seems pretty good now after tuning the drivetrain :)
Other question: how's this mini servo? do I need BEC or does it handle the 2s directly?
@@brahmoone Yes, it does cog but barely noticeable. As for the servo normally you won't need UBEC. Just ESC can provide enough power and so far near 6V hasn't kill this one yet. Some ESC does output exactly 5V though, like XC-10A and Hobbywing 1625.
Where can I find the brushless stuff
What you see in the video is Hobbywing EZrun 18A with Surpass Hobby 1410 motor but I suggest 2 types of setup.
Budget setup
Motor Surpass Hobby 1410 : goo.gl/arADH4
ESC XC-10A: Yuo can fin this in Hobbyking and Aliexpress, here' the hobbyking: hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-brushless-car-esc-10a-w-reverse.html
You'll also need programming card: hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-programming-card-for-car-esc.html
Then the one with Hobbywing is not that cheap but will turn your car in to a rocket.
Motor Scorpion 9500KV: www.asiatees.com/display?Miscellaneous-All-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=104548&pid=1
ESC Hobbywing Ezrun 18A: www.ebay.com/itm/HobbyWing-18A-ESC-1-18th-Scale-EZRUN-18A-SL-Brushless-Motor-Speed-Controller/173274548139
I can use other bodies?
Yes, here are the list of Mini-Z and Firelap bodies and also 1/24 scale model. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/3/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY/edit#gid=0
@@BeaversHobby thank you! I have a FRS/BRZ body but I think I would have to do some medications for it to fit
@@rollinthunder8671 If you got the BRZ from Mini-Z then it's gonna be very hard to make it fit. WLtoys is 98mm wheelbase, wide chassis while BRZ is 94mm wheelbase narrow. So you'll have to cut the body for longer wheelbase and make a widebody kit for it.
@@BeaversHobby hmmmmm thank u! I will do more research
@@rollinthunder8671 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Does the esc you added have a low voltage cutoff?
No. None of these small brushed ESC has. The Hobbywing 1625 has it but it's a bit big for the car.
Beaver's Hobby could you take off the housing on the hobbywing though? Most of my 1/10 and 1/8 scale esc’s could have the housing removed. Its just better to leave the heat sink on to reduce risk of ripping anything out...
@@nullnull5185 It doesn't make much difference because of the waterproofing sticking the board to the case. Unless you can remove the waterproofing on the board, I believe it's silicone.
Este hombre es un pro, pena que no pueda ser en español
hello can i change the motor with tamiya mini 4wd motor?
No, Mini 4WD motor doesn't have mounting holes at the front. You can use brushed motor from PN Racing though.
@@BeaversHobby hehe thanks :)
can k969..?
Yes, it's the same car anyway.
today I found out that I bought an aircraft esc instead of one of these, can not express how annoyed I am right now :(
It might still work for a car. Check if yours can calibrate the throttle so you can still use it to drive forward.
Hi beaver, just to say: in the video comments it's written: "Better ESC than in this video: bit.ly/2XZUhMM" I wanted to give you the info that this particular ESC as no brake functionality between front and rear (I have test it both sides)
There are 2 versions of that and they send it out randomly.
อยากให้ทำช้าเเล้วละเอียดกว่านี้หน่อยครับบ้างขั้นตอนก็มีข้ามทำยากกว่ารถกระป๋องเยอะจิงๆ55555
ขอบคุณสำหรับคำแนะนำครับ จะนำไปปรับปรุงในวีดีโอต่อ ๆ ไป
@@BeaversHobby สอบถามเพิ่มเติมครับ เเล้วช่องเสียบของรีซิฟที่บัดกรีออกมันสำคัญไหมครับ
@@นายพาระนิดนามามี ไม่สำคัญครับ ผมเก็บไว้เฉพาะที่ใช้ 2 ช่องคือ 1 คุมเลี่ยว กับ 2 คุมคันเร่ง ก็พอ ที่เหลือถ้าไม่มีกล่องไฟกระพริบอะไรแบบนี้ ไม่ต้องเก็บไว้ก็ได้