thank you sooooooo much for this channel . All other review are pointless . apart from pointing out what is on the box and testing how bad the car is out the box they don't do much. so thank you .. with these simple mods people can really get what this chassis is worth.
Awesome, really appreciate these series about the WL K989. Very good step by step guide to improve the car straight out of the box. My car will be comming in about a week or so. These videos even made me more excited, because I love tinkering with (rc) cars.
I've thought about that myself but I came to a conclusion that these are very target-specific kind of videos so they might not be interesting or resonate with larger audience.
Yes, you can apply gear diff grease to the shocks. I did it here in stage 4 ruclips.net/video/ci54dkbc_Bc/видео.html . Unfortunately these shocks have gaping hole and don't retain the grease that well. It works for a while and needs regular cleaning and filling.
@BeaversHobby what about using an electric wire tube. You gut a wire of the appropriate diameter so you're left with only the tubing. Cut that to the appropriate length, then put that over the shock shaft with grease, although I don't know exactly where on the shaft because I don't have one yet. There's a how to on this for the losi Micro shocks somewhere.
Hi beaver I just started to do all of these mods ..are the metal upper control arms adjustable with left and right hand threads ? To fix toe issues. Thanks the video are very interesting!
Yes, the metal upper arms are adjustable. However you'll have to use them in conjunction with the metal knuckles because the ball head on them need to run M2 screw through it to attach to the knuckle.
Hi. First of all, many thanks for all tour vids! It was a pleasure to watch them ! I just have a question about the suspension. Training after training (I use it for touring) the suspension have a lot a slack ans start to have positive toe on the rear. Does the aluminium part have less slack? Or do toi have also the same issue? Thank you in advance
Aluminium knuckles are more rigid and last longer than plastic. However the upper arms are wobbly and lower arms are a gamble at best. You'd be lucky if you got all working lower arms. I'd say upgrade the knuckles to aluminium and build the toe bar from other 3.5mm ball caps that are more rigid. With a lot of use suspension arms can wear out so you can treat them as consumables since aluminium arms give more problem than they fix. Here's how to fix the knuckle to get it working 100%. ruclips.net/video/coFHPQg4BQs/видео.html And here if you are curious about full metal upgrade. ruclips.net/video/cKw-T2f-Qms/видео.html
Whaou you replied vert fast. I saw your about aluminium parts and all the issues. In the same time it will make the car more heavy so... Anyway thank you. I will think about custom modification !
I've noticed you did LOADS of upgrades and mods. But, you dont have any part on alloy. Like paliers, hubs, arms or even suspension. Do you prefear it on plastic? Do you find it better without alloy? What about weight? Better light then? I will aprecciate any info you can give me. Thanks!! AWSOME VIDEOS!!!!! REALLY HELPFULL!!💪
Most alloy parts especially arms give this car more problems rather than improving it. Plastic parts also lighter. These videos should answer your questions too (how to fix aluminium parts and make them work). Here's the video for aluminium hubs and shock tower, 2 worthy upgrades. ruclips.net/video/coFHPQg4BQs/видео.html And here's for the whole kit that will make you pull your hair out. ruclips.net/video/cKw-T2f-Qms/видео.html BTW, metal shocks aren't that smooth. If you want oil shocks, get grease shocks from Atomic AMR. They'll work like oil shocks and more suitable for this scale with different springs to tune as well.
@@BeaversHobby thanks so much for your answer!!!😊 It helps a lot!!!💪 Keep doing videos! We apreciate your time doing them. Keep safe from all this world wide problem goin on at the moment 💪🤟👍😉❤️ Big hug from Spain
It's ball link pliers for Trex250. www.align-trex.co.uk/tools-supplies/tools/tools/250-ball-link-plier-h25070t.html I also use standard ball link pliers. bit.ly/2lPPPm9
Thank you for these videos. Can you tell me the name of the tool to separate the ball from the socket? Also where did you find those hand metric drill bits?
The tool for ball heads is ball link pliers from Trex250 helicopter. It's this part and I think you can find it in your local hobby shops. www.align-trex.co.uk/tools-supplies/tools/tools/250-ball-link-plier-h25070t.html The drill bits are from Banggood. bit.ly/2SfMbj6
The ball pliers? The small one is from the Trex250 helicopter, part no. H25070T. You can get a big one like this too. It'll work but you need to be a bit more careful. bit.ly/2lPPPm9
Hi. I just got this K989 kit. Wanna upgrade shock absorbers. Do you have any recommendations? I found out online. But it's not a ball joint;( Thank you.
I guess you've found the metal shocks. They'll work with the standard parts but there's no ball joint so there's no lateral movement. The best performance is the from Atomic AMR/BZ long shocks + springs and change the ball heads to 4mm. This way the shock will hold the grease better. However you can still use the standard shock, change the springs and apply some gear diff. grease on them to have some dampening.
Hey there man! I REALLY need your help. So the toe on my k969 is everywhere and its impossible to drive straight. This in turn effects the steering on my rc and i need your help on how to align the damn thing. THANKYOU
Standard toe is pretty difficult to keep going in straight line. You can use turnbuckle or rod from Mini-Q, cut and drill the original tie rod to open up front toe or make front toe out so it can go straight easier. Rear toe is quite alright but you can do the same trick to decrease amount of toe in.
Here's the playlist of RWD mod from installing gyro, disassemble swing shaft to fine tune the car. I've just finished the last video yesterday. ruclips.net/p/PLS79G3YjA2fDY_ESGp0wk6Wom8Zrt0u6E
In this video, no. But later in episode 4 after I filled the shock with grease I removed one preload clip out of each rear shocks making the car stiffer at the front.
I don't know if automatically recognize the battery size but I guess not so I don't think you can use it. If the charger charges a no more than 800mAh or 2C (twice the capacity so charging time is about half an hour) then it might work but still, these battery aren't made to charge at high current so do it at your own risk and have a fire extinguisher with you.
hi, i'm tryna make a k989 brushless but not for drift, first of all i have to upgrade it brushless, i have already the setup, but i miss something. Do i need a new receiver and transmitter for the upgrade to brushless? if it does, can you recommend a cheap transmitter+esc combo? thanks!
(this is the setup) www.asiatees.com/display?Miscellaneous-All-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=104548&pid=1 motor www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-Ezrun-18A-Sl-Esc-For-1-8-Car/272866014530?hash=item3f8814f542:g:T3wAAOSw84RZzQPP esc
Yes, you need a new receiver and transmitter. What you are doing now is upgrading the electronics which is very common by using separate unit of ESC and receiver. Actually you have the same motor and ESC that I have and they work perfectly with Radiolink RC4GS goo.gl/1cqZGH . This radio will give you everything you need. If you like Flysky the GT3C goo.gl/rnyV4E also works but I highly recommend Radiolink. By the way be careful a bit when you use Ezrun 18A with original servo because this ESC output 6V to receiver and servo. Last time I did this the original servo burnt out within a month. Try getting a replacement that works with 6V would be good. I suggest Gening servo goo.gl/DsrqK5 which has metal gear and will have more chance of survival in crashes. You can see how to make this servo works in the car in my previous video at 4:45 minutes (this link will bring you right to it) : ruclips.net/video/zB3pUN9XiSw/видео.htmlm45s
If you can find metal center pinion for upgrade then yes. But 2S with 9500kV is plenty fast enough and could strip pinion shaft gears, diff's crown gear and break the diffs in the process.
@@esmokebaby After fixing everything, wheels and tyres first. They'll make the most improvement. After that is find some 3.5mm ball head linkages to adjust front toe arm, giving it front toe out. Just these 2 things and your car will run great. If you want more precise control then upgrade the transmitter and install new electronics.
Screw it back in tightly. You can also drop some screw glue (loctite) on the screw to stop it from coming off. Or if the thread on servo saver has already worn out... just glue the thing together but you won't have servo saver when you crash.
The arm comes off the servo entirely? Not even the screw can secure it to the servo? Try glueing it in first, if that not work you'll need to replace the servo because the screw hole might have worn out.
![How to Use Mini-Z Body with WLtoys 1/28 [Budget Touring Car Stage 6]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-gCJEXXWBEo/mqdefault.jpg)
thank you sooooooo much for this channel . All other review are pointless . apart from pointing out what is on the box and testing how bad the car is out the box they don't do much.
so thank you .. with these simple mods people can really get what this chassis is worth.
I can't believe that just cleaning up the suspension made it slide much nicer
like i said, best micro rc channel!!
Awesome, really appreciate these series about the WL K989. Very good step by step guide to improve the car straight out of the box. My car will be comming in about a week or so. These videos even made me more excited, because I love tinkering with (rc) cars.
Thank you from Jamie in Toronto. I will apply techniques I learned here on my next k989.
Your videos are so amazing and useful just wanna say thanks 4 the good vids👌🏾
Incredible Work !
Why you dont have more subs? Your videos are so nice
I've thought about that myself but I came to a conclusion that these are very target-specific kind of videos so they might not be interesting or resonate with larger audience.
I am interested, I will subscribe :)
great tips, thank you very mucjj.
nice video dude!
Love these budget videos.
For the 284161, isn't there a way to dampen the shocks like with the Losi Micro T where you put a greased wire tube on the shock shaft?
Yes, you can apply gear diff grease to the shocks. I did it here in stage 4 ruclips.net/video/ci54dkbc_Bc/видео.html .
Unfortunately these shocks have gaping hole and don't retain the grease that well. It works for a while and needs regular cleaning and filling.
@BeaversHobby what about using an electric wire tube. You gut a wire of the appropriate diameter so you're left with only the tubing. Cut that to the appropriate length, then put that over the shock shaft with grease, although I don't know exactly where on the shaft because I don't have one yet.
There's a how to on this for the losi Micro shocks somewhere.
Hi beaver I just started to do all of these mods ..are the metal upper control arms adjustable with left and right hand threads ? To fix toe issues. Thanks the video are very interesting!
Yes, the metal upper arms are adjustable. However you'll have to use them in conjunction with the metal knuckles because the ball head on them need to run M2 screw through it to attach to the knuckle.
Hi. First of all, many thanks for all tour vids! It was a pleasure to watch them !
I just have a question about the suspension. Training after training (I use it for touring) the suspension have a lot a slack ans start to have positive toe on the rear. Does the aluminium part have less slack? Or do toi have also the same issue? Thank you in advance
Aluminium knuckles are more rigid and last longer than plastic. However the upper arms are wobbly and lower arms are a gamble at best. You'd be lucky if you got all working lower arms.
I'd say upgrade the knuckles to aluminium and build the toe bar from other 3.5mm ball caps that are more rigid. With a lot of use suspension arms can wear out so you can treat them as consumables since aluminium arms give more problem than they fix.
Here's how to fix the knuckle to get it working 100%. ruclips.net/video/coFHPQg4BQs/видео.html
And here if you are curious about full metal upgrade. ruclips.net/video/cKw-T2f-Qms/видео.html
Whaou you replied vert fast. I saw your about aluminium parts and all the issues. In the same time it will make the car more heavy so... Anyway thank you. I will think about custom modification !
@@gregorymonchy5675 My pleasure.
I happened to be online at the moment so once I got the notification, I was here.
Does this modification any good to K969 for drifting?
Yes, it also applies to K969 (stage 1 too). They are essentially the same car that come with different body, tyres and differential.
I've noticed you did LOADS of upgrades and mods. But, you dont have any part on alloy. Like paliers, hubs, arms or even suspension. Do you prefear it on plastic? Do you find it better without alloy?
What about weight? Better light then? I will aprecciate any info you can give me. Thanks!! AWSOME VIDEOS!!!!! REALLY HELPFULL!!💪
Most alloy parts especially arms give this car more problems rather than improving it. Plastic parts also lighter.
These videos should answer your questions too (how to fix aluminium parts and make them work). Here's the video for aluminium hubs and shock tower, 2 worthy upgrades. ruclips.net/video/coFHPQg4BQs/видео.html
And here's for the whole kit that will make you pull your hair out. ruclips.net/video/cKw-T2f-Qms/видео.html
BTW, metal shocks aren't that smooth. If you want oil shocks, get grease shocks from Atomic AMR. They'll work like oil shocks and more suitable for this scale with different springs to tune as well.
@@BeaversHobby thanks so much for your answer!!!😊 It helps a lot!!!💪
Keep doing videos! We apreciate your time doing them.
Keep safe from all this world wide problem goin on at the moment 💪🤟👍😉❤️
Big hug from Spain
@@NahuelSellanesArt My pleasure. Hope you stay safe from all the troubles too.
What tools did you use to seperate the suspension ball joints?
It's ball link pliers for Trex250. www.align-trex.co.uk/tools-supplies/tools/tools/250-ball-link-plier-h25070t.html
I also use standard ball link pliers. bit.ly/2lPPPm9
Thank you for these videos. Can you tell me the name of the tool to separate the ball from the socket? Also where did you find those hand metric drill bits?
The tool for ball heads is ball link pliers from Trex250 helicopter. It's this part and I think you can find it in your local hobby shops. www.align-trex.co.uk/tools-supplies/tools/tools/250-ball-link-plier-h25070t.html
The drill bits are from Banggood. bit.ly/2SfMbj6
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much! Always helps to have the right keywords to find these tools.
Perfect, I like this little door card plier - where did you get it?
The ball pliers? The small one is from the Trex250 helicopter, part no. H25070T.
You can get a big one like this too. It'll work but you need to be a bit more careful. bit.ly/2lPPPm9
@@BeaversHobby Perfect, thank you so much!
Hi. I just got this K989 kit. Wanna upgrade shock absorbers. Do you have any recommendations? I found out online. But it's not a ball joint;( Thank you.
I guess you've found the metal shocks. They'll work with the standard parts but there's no ball joint so there's no lateral movement. The best performance is the from Atomic AMR/BZ long shocks + springs and change the ball heads to 4mm. This way the shock will hold the grease better. However you can still use the standard shock, change the springs and apply some gear diff. grease on them to have some dampening.
I’ve been trying to find an rc shopping cart just for fun lol 😂
Build one! 😀
Beaver's Hobby I’ll “try” that lol
Hey will the K989 metal kit work on the wltoys 284131??
Yes, it will. It's the same car after all.
Hey there man! I REALLY need your help. So the toe on my k969 is everywhere and its impossible to drive straight. This in turn effects the steering on my rc and i need your help on how to align the damn thing. THANKYOU
Standard toe is pretty difficult to keep going in straight line. You can use turnbuckle or rod from Mini-Q, cut and drill the original tie rod to open up front toe or make front toe out so it can go straight easier. Rear toe is quite alright but you can do the same trick to decrease amount of toe in.
Thanks ! :-)
hello can you do a tutorial on how to convert the wltoys k969 from awd to rwd. PLS
Here's the playlist of RWD mod from installing gyro, disassemble swing shaft to fine tune the car. I've just finished the last video yesterday.
ruclips.net/p/PLS79G3YjA2fDY_ESGp0wk6Wom8Zrt0u6E
nice video
Is there any way to fit mini z optima suspension arms on this?
I don't think it'd work. Mini-Z arms are very different from this one.
@@BeaversHobby ok thank you sir. Just thought I would ask.
Did you change the preload of the shocks ?
In this video, no. But later in episode 4 after I filled the shock with grease I removed one preload clip out of each rear shocks making the car stiffer at the front.
จัดมาแล้วคง ต้องทำลื่น ก่อน555 ตามเลยคับ^^
Hey could I use a charger from an A959-b with this car?
I don't know if automatically recognize the battery size but I guess not so I don't think you can use it. If the charger charges a no more than 800mAh or 2C (twice the capacity so charging time is about half an hour) then it might work but still, these battery aren't made to charge at high current so do it at your own risk and have a fire extinguisher with you.
Beaver's Hobby could you recommend a charger for this car?
@@JRose342 iMax B6 AC. It charges everything and you can set it up for normal charge, storage charge and balance charge too.
hi, i'm tryna make a k989 brushless but not for drift, first of all i have to upgrade it brushless, i have already the setup, but i miss something. Do i need a new receiver and transmitter for the upgrade to brushless? if it does, can you recommend a cheap transmitter+esc combo? thanks!
(this is the setup) www.asiatees.com/display?Miscellaneous-All-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=104548&pid=1 motor www.ebay.com/itm/Hobbywing-Ezrun-18A-Sl-Esc-For-1-8-Car/272866014530?hash=item3f8814f542:g:T3wAAOSw84RZzQPP esc
Yes, you need a new receiver and transmitter. What you are doing now is upgrading the electronics which is very common by using separate unit of ESC and receiver.
Actually you have the same motor and ESC that I have and they work perfectly with Radiolink RC4GS goo.gl/1cqZGH . This radio will give you everything you need. If you like Flysky the GT3C goo.gl/rnyV4E also works but I highly recommend Radiolink.
By the way be careful a bit when you use Ezrun 18A with original servo because this ESC output 6V to receiver and servo. Last time I did this the original servo burnt out within a month. Try getting a replacement that works with 6V would be good. I suggest Gening servo goo.gl/DsrqK5 which has metal gear and will have more chance of survival in crashes.
You can see how to make this servo works in the car in my previous video at 4:45 minutes (this link will bring you right to it) : ruclips.net/video/zB3pUN9XiSw/видео.htmlm45s
Thanks a lot! You are so helpful
And last thing, if i want to put 3s battery, do i need metal gears?
If you can find metal center pinion for upgrade then yes. But 2S with 9500kV is plenty fast enough and could strip pinion shaft gears, diff's crown gear and break the diffs in the process.
I wounder if i can find a 1/28 scale model car body to put on one
It's very close to 1/24 and some Tamiya, Aoshima models has the same wheelbase like 98 or 102mm which fit this car perfectly.
@@BeaversHobby awsome thank you will model cars have wheel base specs on the box or will it be trial and error
@@BeaversHobby also i got the k969 what part upgrade do you recommend first
@@esmokebaby After fixing everything, wheels and tyres first. They'll make the most improvement. After that is find some 3.5mm ball head linkages to adjust front toe arm, giving it front toe out.
Just these 2 things and your car will run great.
If you want more precise control then upgrade the transmitter and install new electronics.
@@BeaversHobby awsome thank you
Help!. My car’s servo arm keeps popping off what do I do?
Screw it back in tightly. You can also drop some screw glue (loctite) on the screw to stop it from coming off. Or if the thread on servo saver has already worn out... just glue the thing together but you won't have servo saver when you crash.
Beaver's Hobby not the screw it’s the whole servo arm that pops off of the servo
The arm comes off the servo entirely? Not even the screw can secure it to the servo? Try glueing it in first, if that not work you'll need to replace the servo because the screw hole might have worn out.
Beaver's Hobby I’ll get some super glue
Don't splash it all over the shaft. That will lock the servo up entirely. Just the screw hole and maybe the servo saver.
I’m just gonna change the dogbones for my jjrc so I can use drift tires
Well, that's the best way so you can keep original wheels to use with original dog bones and use new dog bones with drift wheels.
Beaver's Hobby yea so I can use the wheels on other cars