Seen many of your videos and just bought a k969 and looking forward to it! Seen some people make it rwd and some use awd with one way diff lock, whats the differences between it? Do you think gyro is neccesary for awd or only rwd. What is you first reccomendations to to as mods when i get the car? Ofcourse i will fix the steering angle but do you have any other suggestions?
RWD looks more realistic and can hold the opposite lock all the way so it looks great on the move. It's also harder to drive and converting it to RWD isn't guaranteed to work so you will be taking a big risk. AWD is still good to drive if you are not too picky about how it works and just want to slide. As for the Gyro, it's not necessary for AWD but it will help. It's a must for RWD though. If you upgrade the car with new transmitter, some receiver like Radiolink R4FGM will have an integrated gyro. It's good enough for AWD but not enough for RWD.
I settled on second car to be atomic 1/27th scale drz rtr for around 250 straight through atomic rc. Seems pretty legit and not bad for price. I can save 40 and buy kit. I ordered the cheap wl toys k989 for my daughter. Hope I didn't make mistakes instead of getting the k969. If I get a month or 2 out of wl toys one like we did from their crawler I'll be happy. I was surprised to have gotten alot out of the 1/24th scale wpl24 truck it was a tank. Gears surprisingly lasted long time until I decided to tow a barbie dreamhouse car around that was all she wrote. Lol Thanks for answering all my questions. Where do you recommend good body for those cars since atomic rc only sells the cars.
I hope you get the DRZ V2 because it's miles better than the 1st one. I got almost all my bodies from Banzaihobby from Japan. bit.ly/2CGgozp White version because it's much cheaper and you can paint it however you like. You can check the body wheelbase here. kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/ . Anything between 90 to 98mm is OK for DRZ V2.
@@BeaversHobby I didn't think atomic was that much more for their bodies. About 30 with body mounts. 5 bucks is substantially cheaper but I prefer to keep it all in one order. Its about the same paying shipping twice.
@@BeaversHobby thanks alot for your great service helping me and many others. Ill make sure to get the version 2 atomic. I was thinking rear wheel drive shaft driven or should I get the DZ2?
@@familyman8644 There's only one DRZ V2. It's rear wheel drive drift car. As for the body, Atomic uses Mini-Z body so you can choose whatever you like as long as the wheelbase is between 90 to 98mm. You'll have to buy everything separately because there are only the chassis, motor wheels and tyres on miracel-mart. Then you'll have to get radio, batter, charger from somewhere else and then body from a Kyosho dealer or banzaihobby.com Log story short, you you do down Atomic route, you can't get all of the components from 1 shop. There're going to be at least 3 and most likely from separated countries from China, Hong Kong and Japan.
I wish there was someone like you but focuses on 1/10 RC's. I've got a stock TA05 (F430) that I'd like to convert into a RWD CS. I'd switch over to 1/28 drifting but the shell selection and shell/rim customizability isn't very wide.
The sinohobby I said in other videos is for brushed motor and does not work with brushless motor. You can get the brushless version here hobbyking.com/en_us/15a-brushless-esc-turnigy-tz4-awd.html Or get the one I mentioned in this video.
Great video! What is the size of the motor, I cannot find it...Also if I understand well this took you from how much time to 1,5 hours? What is the original runtime on a stock battery?
The motor size is 130 in standard or brushed term. In brushless we call this 1625 or 1410 depending on the manufacture. Basically if you search for "Mini--Z brushless motor" you'll get the correct size. The runtime with this setup is around 90 minutes. Although I was being very light with the throttle.
@@BeaversHobby In the beginning I was typing miniZ brushless motor but all the searches were too expensive like 50-70$, while the one you found is more affordable! So the run time doubled using that motor...?
@@BobCorey Here bit.ly/3ircxKC Or here if banggood doesn't have the KV you want. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003134575807.html Get the motor only and get other ESC like this one bit.ly/3h07teH . Again, the runtime is relative to how you use the throttle so don't get your hope up that you'll get twice the runtime by just changing the electronics. If you want to run longer, increase the battery capacity is better.
@@BeaversHobby I fly fpv drones for a long time now and developing a quad for video + flight time I realised it has alot to do with the resistance the motor has to deal with, but because you said you had so much of an improvement over the battery life just changing the electronics I thought that would be the case since I have never compared brushed to brushless myself! Lately I am interested in getting a small car like urs and drift FPV...I made some videos with the 1:10 and I would like to make some indoor videos with them like this, check it out you might like it! ruclips.net/video/vB89MpeEUlE/видео.html What KV are closer to the factory motor? Also this ESC is a little expensive, no other cheaper drone esc couldn't do the job well? They are smaller and cheaper 🧐
@@BobCorey The original motor is equivalent to about 3500KV. The motor that I use in this video is the 6000KV from the old series of Surrpass. It doesn't consume much power and it also doesn't output much torque either. That's probably why my runtime was so long. Unfortunately this stuff isn't available anymore. The motor has been out of production for probably a year now. The ESC on the other hand, might still be around bit it has a lot of cogging with newer more powerful motors so I don't recommend it. You can potentially use drone/heli/plane ESC but keep in mind that it won't have brake, it might have reverse (for 3D flight or something) but going directly from forward to reverse will destroy the gearbox so I advise you against using an air ESC for car. If you are on a budget, check out Hobbywing EZrun 18A. That one is really good albeit a bit big for 1/28.
When making adjustable top arms, you said you used m1.5 screws, I’m trying to buy the parts to do these mods, I can only see 1.4mm or 1.6mm screws? Do you know which you used? Also, thank you for your channel, I’m new to RX drift, your videos are very well done and an incredible resource 👍
@@BeaversHobby also, do you know if araldite or something similar will bond to the k989 suspension plastic? I want to modify various parts including mono shock mods and I think some areas of the plastic would benefit from reinforcement?? Thanks again!! Since buying my first car I have been binge watching your channel 👍
@@jimmy2fast4u I'm not sure about the araldite as I have never use it before. The parts that will benefit from reinforcement is the suspension arms after you cut and drill them. Basically a medium threadlocker blue or green will be perfectly fine.
If you look at the price only, yes, this whole thing costs as much as a Mini-Z. However you'll have to consider that Mini-Z: - Comes with a standard radio not one with full adjustability. An upgrade radio for Mini-Z costs at least $220. - Plastic open diff not front one way with rear solid axle plus CS ratio (rear wheels spin faster than front to let the rear step out easier and you can hold opposite lock longer). To do this on Mini-Z you'll add at least another $40. - Brushed motor and proprietary electronics, you can't upgrade it to brushless except changing the board which is insanely expensive. - DWS rear chassis for Mini-Z costs $30 (Atomic S.A.S V4) or $60 for the genuine part. What you get from Mini-Z is convenience. You don't have to fix it from out of the box to get it working. I also started a new series with Mini-Z and will one day do a price summary too. So far it costed me 420 Euro just for the car and upgrade radio and I haven't stared to upgrade the chassis yet. ruclips.net/video/Fjf6OyheR5A/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Ouch! I take your point. Mini-Z is a money pit on another level of spending. As this will be my first 1/24 on-road I may just get two WLToys K989 (or one WLToys 284131 and one K989), some tires and a few of the basic essential upgrades and hopefully a Gyro. These will cost less than a single stock Mini-Z.
@@shrimperlincs3395 284131 has a much better transmitter so that's a better choice right now. Also you don't really need a gyro for AWD drifting. When buying a cheap car you'll have to accept the imperfections that come with it so prepare to fix it before you can run it smoothly. There are other kit cars as well, that'll be good especially if you already have a transmitter. Take a look at GL Racing GLA if you want a AWD car that you can both do touring racing and drift. Or if you will do only drifting then take a look at RWD like GL Racing/HRC GLD, Atomic DRZ V2, BMR-X and DriftArt 2.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you! I've spent the whole day watching and listening to your videos. I've been make a list of possible 1:28 scale racers with options. You're videos are superb to thrash out my options. I think I'll start low cost as I'm only aiming to race and drift (a little) on my kitchen floor with my Son.
Using gyro can help you controlling the car much easier. If it helps you and you don't feel it interfering with your driving then yes, you should use it. Wiggling wheels can come from mounting gyro not well enough, either the place that you stick it down produce a lot of oscillation or not enough anti-vibration. You can try sticking it down with thicker double sided foam tape and see if things improve. Anyway, if your gyro is very sensitive and the car is very small then wheel shake can be unavoidable sometimes.
Hi beaver, are the ESC settings you give Here also good for drifting without CS? Would you change something? Im planning to move the electronics and stuff to the atomic amz chassis, would you recommend the budged solution of electronics or should i go with "the better parts"?
This is an old setup, now we have better electronics at the same price. You don't need a programming card and the ESC is much more powerful than this so much so that it will power up any motor. DasMikro ESC bit.ly/3h07teH Surpass Rocket Motor, choose 3500KV for drifting. www.aliexpress.com/item/33027684055.html
Hiya Beaver! Which car do you think is best overall among these two? The K969 or the Atomic AMZ touring car? I'm specifically talking about just the chassis or everything under the hood, so to speak. Thanks!
Atomic AMZ all the way! Not just the overall design is better. The suspension is more stable, the parts quality is better and everything leads to much better performance.
Hi Mr Beaver, your personal opinion what are the mods that actually makes the car drift better, for instance the electronic mod like upgrading to brushless as you mention not so important as you can still drift using brushed motor.
Wheels and tyres make the most difference. Then front one way following by adjustable front toe and finally the electronics. If the transmitter is already good like the new version with speed limiter (dual rate) and no steering deadzone, you don't even have to upgrade the electronics.
is there some sort of adapter or different nuts to fit the other kyosho rims? Seems like the really nice ones that are replicas of Volk and Rays all have that hole that is larger and the stock nuts I don't think will hold it?
They are direct fit. This car is based on Mini-Z AWD. You can directly put AWD wheels on directly. The wheels you see in this video are also Mini-Z MDH100W wheels with Mini-Z drift tyres. If you see the bigger hole then they are wheels for Mini-Z RWD which are different than AWD. I believe you saw the Rays CE28N. They are RWD wheels. The one that's direct fit for this car is Rays TE37. By the way, I've covered the wheels' difference topic in my Mini-Z review too. ruclips.net/video/ht69BmKDUlc/видео.html And here's WLtoys K989 mini review + how to fix. ruclips.net/video/TnhriaSSfSA/видео.html
@@BeaversHobbyI appreciate your reply, so if I bought a mini Z AWD are you saying theres a lot less wheel options for that one? Most I see have the circle hole is why I'm asking, also I saw you are active on the rcgroups.com mini pages, I'll be scrolling through there for days to learn more... thanks again for sharing!
@@CM3000CM From what I can find AWD has more wheels than RWD especially there's a lot of BBS style with different diameters (standard 20mm and extra large 22mm). Some wheels are just different like the Rays which you have different style between RWD and AWD, also Mini-Z plastic wheel that you got RE30 or RWD and generic multi-spoke (looks like OZ). But other than that you'll get the same style from PN Racing, Atomic and GL Racing.
Hallo mate. Just bought xc 10A and surpass hobby 6000kv motor. Can you tell me which wire goes where. There are no instruction. Thank you so much. Hope for your success and health. Cheers
You can wire the motor however you want, the A,B,C series doesn't matter since it's sensorless. Just check that the brake works before checking the direction. If you can go forward then push the trigger and the motor stops then it's correct, if not reverse throttle channel on the radio. Then check the direction. If it runs backward when you pull the trigger then swap 2 wires on the motor. I usually swap the outer 2 wires because it makes routing the wires easier. Watch this for more info about radio settings and ESC wiring. ruclips.net/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/видео.html
It's DIY using Arduino and some plastic plate. Here's tutorial. ruclips.net/video/Yz50YrtiqqY/видео.html You can also use Tamiya Speed Checker. This will give you more accurate reading because it has friction. www.1999.co.jp/eng/10131894 It's going in and out of stock quite often so check regularly. Here's this speed checker in action. ruclips.net/video/hXH8iTWgpDo/видео.html
I’m curious here when you do the rear cs gear mod do you need to modify the stock gear so the new one will fit or have you found any that will fit without modifying I have a 14 t that is a a press on and the same cut gear as the wl so would the cs be more or would it be less likely to fit even with a rear modified gear
hi your videos are a Godsend to people looking to get into 1/28 drifting, im planning to get the wl989 but im on a tight budget, woud it drift like that even with just the essential parts on your list?
Yes. The parts on this car are what I show in the video. You don't even have to do brushless. I did it because I broke my brushed motor. Do only the suspension fix & mods, upgrade the transmitter and you'll get a very good drift car.
thanks for the link i'll order it next time together with a compatible shell, dyou have a list of compatible bodies to k989? thanks very much for the help to a newbie
@@josefpreyes I don't have a whole list of what fit and what doesn't. Just something I've tried here. - Corvette C7 ZR1: fits with custom front lip to lift the bonnet up a bit. - Audi R8, Lexus SC430, Aston Martin DBR9: These cars need to lower the shock. With this same method McLaren MP4-12C, Ferrari 458GT2 also fits. - Honda Civic Type R: direct fit, only need 0mm offset narrow wheels and shave the wheel arches off a little bit. So all FWD like Renault Megan, Mazda 2 and Subaru WRX (4 door) will fit with the same method. Also here's the video tutorial of lowering shock tower. ruclips.net/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/видео.html
Here it is at page 23. www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3Wpns2hQkXcM5BF2PG22oDGho00WlTlaavE87bCyEDYr9e7YppoAxq75Y
Hello Beaver, Hobbyking doesnt sell this programming card anymore. Do you know, which one I can use for the HobbyKing® ™ Brushless Car ESC 10A esc? Thanks!
You can use this from Aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002212779250.html However if you haven't got the ESC yet, I suggest you check out the DasMikro ESC. It's way better than the one I presented in this video. Also feel free to check out my 2021 update. ruclips.net/video/j9pO35iaqfo/видео.html
Hey beaver, I just did a cs mod, the gearing came out perfect, no wobble. But now when I hit the throttle to drive the car straight slowly it wants to turn left all the time no matter what. Any suggestions would help a lot
This is normal. After doing CS mod you'll need to install the front one way to allow the wheels to spin forward faster than the axle. Still, it might veer off to one side or spin if you let go of the throttle.
@@BeaversHobby bro thanks for your supper quick reply, yeah I haven’t installed my oneway yet cause I’m waiting on the 10.5 mm shaft to come in. Hopefully that makes it run straight will I give it a little throttle cause right now, it just shoots to the left when I give it some throttle
Beaver I am planning to try getting an Atomic Amz rwd. Do you have any recommendations or stuff like that? I don't have much money so I will need to go on a budget. Thanks in advance
What do you want it for? Touring car racing of drifting? For touring car it's very good so I highly recommend it. But for drifting you'll need to mod the front suspension and steering to have a lot more steering angle. Well, Atomic DRZ is essentially AMR with new front end, steering, servo mount and top deck anyway. Keep in mind that it doesn't come with wheels.
Beaver's Hobby thanks. I have a wltoys k969 and I don't like it that much and my brother lost one of the pins that secure the body. I also got a small off road car but didn't like it that much either. I went to my local mini rc store which only had touring cars for some stuff but didn't have much stuff except wheels. Then they went out of business. But before that closed down, I wanted to try a touring car of some sort. I wanted to try convert my wltoys to a touring car but I wanted a mini z body on it, but I remembered that you said that mini z bodies often won't work on wltoys 1/28. So I decided to try getting a better cheaper car even though it isn't cheaper. So I wanted to try getting a touring car. But now my brain is battling wether to get the chassis only and get the electronics or the ARR version which needs a body, battery and maybe wheels and tires. Thank you very much for reading this very long response. I am a big fan of yours. Wesley
There are many ways. You can use paint thinner, non-acetone nail polish, brake fluid or nitro fuel to remove the paint. Try in a small area first because it might eat through the body. Also after that the body might cloud or not entirely clear. You can use thinner to coat it and make it looks a bit better but the damage has been done anyway.
The glue on the tape is going to melt and become sticky. Try to swipe it off by hands is safer. But if you happen to go out off the area the just re-paint it back later.
@@jackshatau7525 Yes, however these wheels are a bit smaller than standard Mini-Z wheels so you'll have to use thin double sided tape to mount the tyres.
@@BeaversHobby ahh i see, so it's better to look for the combo esc motor n programing card rather than buy it randomly... Cuz in my place, it's hard to find the compatible programing card with Esc 20A brushed {well i dunno what programing card should work with that}
Hmmm... actually i wanna build my k989 to be cs drift like urs cuz i'm still new in playing rc... I hv build all the setting from the arm till the gear, but i hvn't change the electricity yet... I hv planned to buy radiolink with built-in gyro connected to my brushed 20A esc... What do u think? Are these enough for drifting?
@@harukaze5408 I presume the 20A ESC you are talking about is the small red PCB one. That one is not good at all and you don't have low end control of the motor, it will just start at the fast and end at ballistic. I highly recommend Dumborc 10A. Don't worry about the Ampre rating. It'll work without any problem. bit.ly/2qPpisf You can also install small buzzer to beep when the battery is low too so you don't over discharge it. bit.ly/2S9ujXo
Lego wheels won't fit it directly. If you have 3D printer you can make an adapter to convert Mini-Z AWD shaft to Lego shaft. Anyway, even without Lego wheels you can still build some decent body out of Lego to cover it if you wish.
@@BeaversHobby Ah, thank you for the fast reply! I do in fact have a printer, however the nozzle is leaking badly and I cant afford fixing it right now (thats why I sold my 1/8 buggy to get this one). Fortunatly I've got tons of lego so I'll be building a body for it.
TL;DR version: It depends on what you want. You buy Mini-Z because you want to have an easy starting point. But it'll be very expensive if you want to do anything with the electronics. Long answer: If you want no complication then a Mini-Z AWD + upgrades would cost around $280-350 depending on where you live. Basically after that initial $230 for an AWD kit you'll have to change the swing shafts to metal or aluminium, replace front diff with front one way, lock rear diff or if you don't want to do that then buy a solid axle and finally get some springs to tune. And this is just to get it drifting well. I is still haven't touch on the CS mod yet which is at least another $5 for a gear set to mod but it's negligible when you already pay $230 for a base car. However keep in mind that you'll be stuck with a radio that doesn't have any adjustability, a circuit board that if (actually when) it breaks down it'll be an expensive repair and brushed motor that doesn't have a lot of choice to upgrade due to the circuit board. And the worse thing about Mini-Z is that it has very limited steering angle. Sure, it'll work the same with $300 but with the lack of freedom with the electronics some would opt to get another car instead.
Ok i see! :) Wanna buy the 969 for my son and myself so that we can play ocasionely at home and make some drift fun with it. Is it bette to choose the 989 and another diff that i would lock, if we sometimes want to drive normaly withut drifting? Or can i use regular non drift tyres on this 969 and drive without drifting? Some other youtuber mentioned that the 969 is quieter and faster. Is it true?
@@gaboaaa23 K969 is essentially the same car with locked diffs and drift tyres fitted as standard. If you want to drive normally too, K989 with extra diffs to lock and Kyosho Mini-Z wheels + drift tyres will be better. If you fit standard tyres on K969 (with standard locked diff) it will be difficult to turn. Or you can get K969 then get extra normal tyres and open diff so you don't have to lock them yourself. Either way it's more or less the same. The difference is at the tyres you'll have to buy extra. The reason I suggest K989 + Mini-Z tyres because the tyres are better than K969. So in conclusion, choose it according to the body style you like and which extra parts you can buy easily. If you can buy Mini-Z parts easily, get the K989 because Mini-Z drift tyres are far superior than WLtoys drift tyres. If you only source the parts from Banggood, Aliexpress and ebay, get the K969 because diff and normal tyres are much easier to find. As for the K969 being quieter, well, as I mentioned earlier these car are the same chassis with different tyres and diffs. However the build quality is mixed between cars and batches. He might have been lucky to get a quiet car with good gear mesh out of the box. If the gear mesh is too tight, it will slow the car down and makes a lot of noise. I hope this is helpful and does not confuse you. Feel free to ask if you want any further clarification.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the long reply! Honestly, i just wanna make some fun at home so mini z tyres for extra 15 euros arent worth it for me. I saw the K969 drifting and its enough to have some fun. And if i want i can upgrade any time right? I have one ofer right now. Its a 989 and its has drift tyres and the nromal tyres too. With modified steering and fixed gear mash(eased up) and he wants 45 Euros. Do i have to be afraid of the motor or the electronic is worned out? He says its almost brand new never used it just once and is to fast for the house racing.
@@gaboaaa23 If you want brand new car K969 is more than enough to have fun sliding around. The offer you got is pretty good considering it's already fixed and has all the tyres you want. It'd be even better if that include shipping. Electronics are mixed of quality. Normally if you don't abuse it or run in very hot place it won't worn out or burn out that easily. Take the ESC cover off so it has better cooling.
Hello Beaver, I have ordered the same brushless combo you recommend in your video, XC-10A ESC and Surpass 6000kV BL motor. Now I have the problem that the car does not start smoothly: when I start pulling the throttle trigger, the motor starts making stuttering sound but the car does not start until I pull the trigger to the end when the car suddenly rushes off with full speed. Same behavior when going backward. I canot go smoothly forward or backward: in both directions, the motor makes this stuttering sound until the trigger is at about 70% when the car suddenly rushes off like a rocket. Once the car is in movement, I can go below the 70%. First they sent me the wrong motor (10500kV) and I thought the stuttering may be related to the motor not having enough torque to start smoothly due to the high kV value. But now I have the 6000kV motor and the behaviour is even worse: sometimes the motor doesn't even start if I pull the throttle trigger to the end. If I lift the car off the ground and pull the throttle trigger, the wheels are shaking slightly forth and backward and the motor makes this stuttering sound. Only when i pull the trigger several times, eventually the motor suddenly starts spinning. Do you have any idea what could cause this problem? I have played around with the "Advance Timing" and the "Start Power Percent" setting of the ESC but I could not find a setting, that solves the problem. I have also followed your videos to improve the drive train: differentials and gears are quite smooth now, but behaivor of motor is still the same. Any help would be most appreciated.
Try removing it from the car first and dry run it to see if you can make it working correctly. I suspect there might be problem at the terminal on the motor. Make absolutely sure that all 3 are separated. You can try swapping the wires too and see if that works. For programming, start power around 12-20% should be OK to make the car move. Timing is per your personal preference. If nothing works I'm afraid the ESC is broken (DOA).
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much for your quick answer. I had removed the motor from the car before. Without any load (drive train) there is absolutely no problem - motor starts smoothly and I can control speed over the whole range of the travel of the trigger (I don't believe, that there is a problem in the wiring). Raising the start power to the max. (29%) clearly improved the behavior - when pulling the trigger, the car starts moving earlier than before - however, there is still a slight "stuttering" before the car starts to move. Once the car moves, I can control speed and acceleration much better now. Thank's a lot for your help.
@@tobiasbobst6532 Glad it all worked out. You probably need to max out both start power and timing in this case. Stuttering can also occur when the motor doesn't have enough torque to start the car. Which is pretty normal for Surpass Hobby.
@@BeaversHobby Ok, thx. May I ask you another question (a bit off-topic)? On my WlToys k989 the (original) differentials weare out very quickly although I have optimized the drive train according to your videos. But the pinion gears of the shaft drive and the spur gears of the differentials still weare out very quickly and there are not many options to optimize this with the original gears. So I think about changing the the differentials to the ones you suggested ( www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1162&products_id=14104). I think I will also have to use wide universal shaft (www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13170). However, this will still not change the transmission from pinion of the central shaft to spur gear of differentials and therefore may still not solve the problem (also friction of the drive train in general will be improved again). What do you think? Would this upgrade be worth its money (it is quit expensive though)? Would it help prevent the pinion and differentials from wearing out that quick? Other than that I was thinking about buying the Atomic BZ EVO 2017 (instead of investing in new differentials and shafts for the k989). I would assume that the belt drive in general would produce less friction and therefore also wear out less quickly. Do you have any thoughts on that? Do you have any experience with Atomic BZ?
@@tobiasbobst6532 Yes, you'll need the long shaft to go with diff. The parts you pick will work together and will boost the handling of this car quite a lot. However, as you might have suspected it will not solve the pinion gear wearing out issue. You'll either have to keep replacing it or mod it with 8T pinion from Tamiya Mini 4WD (or similar). And Yes, they're pretty expensive. You can get AMZ chassis only for not much more than all these combined and you're already have brushless system to go in. AMZ is ~65 USD and come with metal shafts + ball diffs. These are almost 60 already. I don't have experience with BZ2017 (yet) but people are asking me to get one and see if I can solve the sloppy steering issue. As of now GLA 2.0 is the best chassis. Or get the Atomic AMZ, it's a solid car and not too expensive.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks, that was fast. I was asking this question since you recommend this :Sinohobby 1/28 RC Car Parts Head Unit For Mini-Q V28-005ZA If I were to get that Sinohobby diff, will the wltoys shaft work or I will still need to get the atomic shaft? thx
@@serajk1727 You'll still need long shaft because Sinohobby is essentially using Mini-Z format. But you don't necessary need shaft from atomic (they stopped making the part I use anyway). I suggest the RC Aurora shafts as they are much better. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Blue-1Pair-Long%29.html You'll also need 6x8mm spacer/shim because Sinohobby doesn't give you anymore. ppm-rcracing.com/products/6.1-x-8mm-Stainless-Steel-Shim-Set-%280.1%2C-0.2%2C-0.3mm-10%7B47%7Dea%29.html
@@BeaversHobby Thx. I think now I understand but why do we need the Shinohobby diff and universal shafts? what is wrong with the diff and shafts that come with the k969?
@@serajk1727 Stock part is gear diff and doesn't have handbrake effect. Also it doesn't allow the wheel to run forward faster than the drivetrain which makes the car undrivable in CS configuration (rear spins faster than front). Stock shaft is short and doesn't reach Mini-Z type drive cup. The reason being this car is kind of re-design of Mini-Z AWD but it's wider and they get around this by making diffs with longer drive cups instead of using long shafts.
Yes, the gyro will hep a lot and the car will be much easier to drive. It's not necessary with CS car though unlike RWD car that you need to have a gyro. But it'll help.
If you use the standard transmitter and 2-in-1, you'll need to take the transmitter apart. Then swap the wires on steering potentiometer to make it go into opposite direction. If you already replace the transmitter and ESC then reverse channel 1 on your transmitter.
Page 23 of this MIT manual. www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3QmnUewjY-yf-Nl9LRFPDlgIK7IAEo8D12O7nzRY7vyIwPRoc1Xb09Sz4
hi Beaver's Hobby, I watch all your videos and I got inspired so I bought the K989 car and start modifying it to a drift car. till to date I have done the FOW (Sinohobby) with the 10.5mm UJ (GLracing), Change the Motor Gear and spur Gear to my comfort to drive. Currently, I'm planning to upgrade to Brushless Motor and ESC. My question is: 1. how many KV motors are best for drifting 2. is the ESC from HobbyWing (16BL30) ok for this car? 3. if i wanted to upgrade the servo, what is the size that i should buy? hopefully, you could get back to me. or better email if possible (redza_ar@yahoo.com) Thank you so much for your hard work making us fall in love with this budget drift car. keep up the good work. REDZA Malaysia.
1. 3500KV is a place to start but actually it depends on your driving style, more torque = less KV, more speed = higher KV. 2. It's a bit too big and heavy. Try EZrun 18A. 3. 5g but shorter lenghth than standard. WLtoys and Mini-Q uses the same size and there's metal gear for servo too. The best servo you can get is XRX MD1 or AGF A11CLS servo, it's a bit narrower than standard but you can put pad the bracket with a plastic sheet and it's super accurate + extremely fast.
anyone who just got a K989 is drooling. thanks for the many videos
companies should hire you to design a drifter, then we can all buy one! C'mon WLToys, hire him, take our money!
He's working on the kl 990 as we speak
Mate 😊 you are definitely a 1/28 hero 🤘 looking forward to the rwd project 😊
Beaver's Hobby you are the best, good imagination for fixing problems and great explanation of how and why you have done them. Thanks brother.
excellent job very good in-depth explanation and full with good tips
A lot of work went into this video. You’re awesome!
Seen many of your videos and just bought a k969 and looking forward to it! Seen some people make it rwd and some use awd with one way diff lock, whats the differences between it? Do you think gyro is neccesary for awd or only rwd. What is you first reccomendations to to as mods when i get the car? Ofcourse i will fix the steering angle but do you have any other suggestions?
RWD looks more realistic and can hold the opposite lock all the way so it looks great on the move. It's also harder to drive and converting it to RWD isn't guaranteed to work so you will be taking a big risk.
AWD is still good to drive if you are not too picky about how it works and just want to slide.
As for the Gyro, it's not necessary for AWD but it will help. It's a must for RWD though. If you upgrade the car with new transmitter, some receiver like Radiolink R4FGM will have an integrated gyro. It's good enough for AWD but not enough for RWD.
2mm, 3mm,,,,,, OMG.
You got super detailed mini scale skill. ☆☆☆☆☆
Thank you for Gening Servo info. Will try it on my AMZ.
Let me know how it turns out.
Great job! Lots of very useful information. Thank you!
Thanks a lot for sharing all of this info. It really helps alot!
I settled on second car to be atomic 1/27th scale drz rtr for around 250 straight through atomic rc. Seems pretty legit and not bad for price. I can save 40 and buy kit. I ordered the cheap wl toys k989 for my daughter. Hope I didn't make mistakes instead of getting the k969. If I get a month or 2 out of wl toys one like we did from their crawler I'll be happy. I was surprised to have gotten alot out of the 1/24th scale wpl24 truck it was a tank. Gears surprisingly lasted long time until I decided to tow a barbie dreamhouse car around that was all she wrote. Lol Thanks for answering all my questions.
Where do you recommend good body for those cars since atomic rc only sells the cars.
I hope you get the DRZ V2 because it's miles better than the 1st one.
I got almost all my bodies from Banzaihobby from Japan. bit.ly/2CGgozp White version because it's much cheaper and you can paint it however you like.
You can check the body wheelbase here. kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/ . Anything between 90 to 98mm is OK for DRZ V2.
@@BeaversHobby I didn't think atomic was that much more for their bodies. About 30 with body mounts. 5 bucks is substantially cheaper but I prefer to keep it all in one order. Its about the same paying shipping twice.
@@BeaversHobby thanks alot for your great service helping me and many others. Ill make sure to get the version 2 atomic. I was thinking rear wheel drive shaft driven or should I get the DZ2?
@@familyman8644 There's only one DRZ V2. It's rear wheel drive drift car.
As for the body, Atomic uses Mini-Z body so you can choose whatever you like as long as the wheelbase is between 90 to 98mm. You'll have to buy everything separately because there are only the chassis, motor wheels and tyres on miracel-mart. Then you'll have to get radio, batter, charger from somewhere else and then body from a Kyosho dealer or banzaihobby.com
Log story short, you you do down Atomic route, you can't get all of the components from 1 shop. There're going to be at least 3 and most likely from separated countries from China, Hong Kong and Japan.
Really professional!
I wish there was someone like you but focuses on 1/10 RC's. I've got a stock TA05 (F430) that I'd like to convert into a RWD CS. I'd switch over to 1/28 drifting but the shell selection and shell/rim customizability isn't very wide.
Yes, unfortunately 1/28 selection isn't as wide as 1/10. If I had a place to run 1/10 I'd do it too.
Thanks for this video! Great job!
Very inspiring. Thank you
Hi beaver, I have the Sino hobby esc that you recommended to get with the rc3s. Will this esc work well with the surpass 6000kv motor?
The sinohobby I said in other videos is for brushed motor and does not work with brushless motor.
You can get the brushless version here hobbyking.com/en_us/15a-brushless-esc-turnigy-tz4-awd.html
Or get the one I mentioned in this video.
Great video! What is the size of the motor, I cannot find it...Also if I understand well this took you from how much time to 1,5 hours? What is the original runtime on a stock battery?
The motor size is 130 in standard or brushed term. In brushless we call this 1625 or 1410 depending on the manufacture. Basically if you search for "Mini--Z brushless motor" you'll get the correct size.
The runtime with this setup is around 90 minutes. Although I was being very light with the throttle.
@@BeaversHobby In the beginning I was typing miniZ brushless motor but all the searches were too expensive like 50-70$, while the one you found is more affordable! So the run time doubled using that motor...?
@@BobCorey Here bit.ly/3ircxKC
Or here if banggood doesn't have the KV you want. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003134575807.html Get the motor only and get other ESC like this one bit.ly/3h07teH .
Again, the runtime is relative to how you use the throttle so don't get your hope up that you'll get twice the runtime by just changing the electronics. If you want to run longer, increase the battery capacity is better.
@@BeaversHobby I fly fpv drones for a long time now and developing a quad for video + flight time I realised it has alot to do with the resistance the motor has to deal with, but because you said you had so much of an improvement over the battery life just changing the electronics I thought that would be the case since I have never compared brushed to brushless myself! Lately I am interested in getting a small car like urs and drift FPV...I made some videos with the 1:10 and I would like to make some indoor videos with them like this, check it out you might like it! ruclips.net/video/vB89MpeEUlE/видео.html
What KV are closer to the factory motor? Also this ESC is a little expensive, no other cheaper drone esc couldn't do the job well? They are smaller and cheaper 🧐
@@BobCorey The original motor is equivalent to about 3500KV. The motor that I use in this video is the 6000KV from the old series of Surrpass. It doesn't consume much power and it also doesn't output much torque either. That's probably why my runtime was so long. Unfortunately this stuff isn't available anymore. The motor has been out of production for probably a year now. The ESC on the other hand, might still be around bit it has a lot of cogging with newer more powerful motors so I don't recommend it. You can potentially use drone/heli/plane ESC but keep in mind that it won't have brake, it might have reverse (for 3D flight or something) but going directly from forward to reverse will destroy the gearbox so I advise you against using an air ESC for car. If you are on a budget, check out Hobbywing EZrun 18A. That one is really good albeit a bit big for 1/28.
Dope car, love the work!
When making adjustable top arms, you said you used m1.5 screws, I’m trying to buy the parts to do these mods, I can only see 1.4mm or 1.6mm screws? Do you know which you used?
Also, thank you for your channel, I’m new to RX drift, your videos are very well done and an incredible resource 👍
The 1.5mm rod was the first iteration. I highly recommend using M2 for more strangth.
@@BeaversHobby thank you so much for your reply, I will try the 2mm
@@BeaversHobby also, do you know if araldite or something similar will bond to the k989 suspension plastic?
I want to modify various parts including mono shock mods and I think some areas of the plastic would benefit from reinforcement??
Thanks again!! Since buying my first car I have been binge watching your channel 👍
@@jimmy2fast4u I'm not sure about the araldite as I have never use it before. The parts that will benefit from reinforcement is the suspension arms after you cut and drill them. Basically a medium threadlocker blue or green will be perfectly fine.
@@BeaversHobby thanks so much for your time
So a Mini-Z AWD with Gyro comes in at the same price?
p.s. Huge respect for all the videos in this series. You're officially Legendary Status.
If you look at the price only, yes, this whole thing costs as much as a Mini-Z.
However you'll have to consider that Mini-Z:
- Comes with a standard radio not one with full adjustability. An upgrade radio for Mini-Z costs at least $220.
- Plastic open diff not front one way with rear solid axle plus CS ratio (rear wheels spin faster than front to let the rear step out easier and you can hold opposite lock longer).
To do this on Mini-Z you'll add at least another $40.
- Brushed motor and proprietary electronics, you can't upgrade it to brushless except changing the board which is insanely expensive.
- DWS rear chassis for Mini-Z costs $30 (Atomic S.A.S V4) or $60 for the genuine part.
What you get from Mini-Z is convenience. You don't have to fix it from out of the box to get it working. I also started a new series with Mini-Z and will one day do a price summary too. So far it costed me 420 Euro just for the car and upgrade radio and I haven't stared to upgrade the chassis yet. ruclips.net/video/Fjf6OyheR5A/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Ouch! I take your point. Mini-Z is a money pit on another level of spending.
As this will be my first 1/24 on-road I may just get two WLToys K989 (or one WLToys 284131 and one K989), some tires and a few of the basic essential upgrades and hopefully a Gyro. These will cost less than a single stock Mini-Z.
@@shrimperlincs3395 284131 has a much better transmitter so that's a better choice right now. Also you don't really need a gyro for AWD drifting.
When buying a cheap car you'll have to accept the imperfections that come with it so prepare to fix it before you can run it smoothly.
There are other kit cars as well, that'll be good especially if you already have a transmitter. Take a look at GL Racing GLA if you want a AWD car that you can both do touring racing and drift. Or if you will do only drifting then take a look at RWD like GL Racing/HRC GLD, Atomic DRZ V2, BMR-X and DriftArt 2.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you! I've spent the whole day watching and listening to your videos.
I've been make a list of possible 1:28 scale racers with options. You're videos are superb to thrash out my options.
I think I'll start low cost as I'm only aiming to race and drift (a little) on my kitchen floor with my Son.
Great work! Would you recommend using a gyro? With a gyro on with settings over 30%, my car wiggles a lot supposing it should go straight..
Using gyro can help you controlling the car much easier. If it helps you and you don't feel it interfering with your driving then yes, you should use it.
Wiggling wheels can come from mounting gyro not well enough, either the place that you stick it down produce a lot of oscillation or not enough anti-vibration. You can try sticking it down with thicker double sided foam tape and see if things improve. Anyway, if your gyro is very sensitive and the car is very small then wheel shake can be unavoidable sometimes.
Beaver's Hobby, Thanks! Let me try and see hows the result
Hi beaver, are the ESC settings you give Here also good for drifting without CS? Would you change something?
Im planning to move the electronics and stuff to the atomic amz chassis, would you recommend the budged solution of electronics or should i go with "the better parts"?
This is an old setup, now we have better electronics at the same price. You don't need a programming card and the ESC is much more powerful than this so much so that it will power up any motor.
DasMikro ESC bit.ly/3h07teH
Surpass Rocket Motor, choose 3500KV for drifting. www.aliexpress.com/item/33027684055.html
@@BeaversHobby thx beaver! 1/28 Champ!!
Hiya Beaver! Which car do you think is best overall among these two? The K969 or the Atomic AMZ touring car? I'm specifically talking about just the chassis or everything under the hood, so to speak. Thanks!
Atomic AMZ all the way! Not just the overall design is better. The suspension is more stable, the parts quality is better and everything leads to much better performance.
Hi Mr Beaver, your personal opinion what are the mods that actually makes the car drift better, for instance the electronic mod like upgrading to brushless as you mention not so important as you can still drift using brushed motor.
Wheels and tyres make the most difference. Then front one way following by adjustable front toe and finally the electronics. If the transmitter is already good like the new version with speed limiter (dual rate) and no steering deadzone, you don't even have to upgrade the electronics.
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much
@@BeaversHobby how about the tires any recommendations as I'm using 1/24 body, the adequate tire size for my body is 27mm
ok the testdriving at the end was pur brainwash only drifting the Beaver "B" ;D
greetings
TommyTropeltop
is there some sort of adapter or different nuts to fit the other kyosho rims? Seems like the really nice ones that are replicas of Volk and Rays all have that hole that is larger and the stock nuts I don't think will hold it?
They are direct fit. This car is based on Mini-Z AWD. You can directly put AWD wheels on directly. The wheels you see in this video are also Mini-Z MDH100W wheels with Mini-Z drift tyres.
If you see the bigger hole then they are wheels for Mini-Z RWD which are different than AWD. I believe you saw the Rays CE28N. They are RWD wheels. The one that's direct fit for this car is Rays TE37.
By the way, I've covered the wheels' difference topic in my Mini-Z review too. ruclips.net/video/ht69BmKDUlc/видео.html
And here's WLtoys K989 mini review + how to fix. ruclips.net/video/TnhriaSSfSA/видео.html
@@BeaversHobbyI appreciate your reply, so if I bought a mini Z AWD are you saying theres a lot less wheel options for that one? Most I see have the circle hole is why I'm asking, also I saw you are active on the rcgroups.com mini pages, I'll be scrolling through there for days to learn more... thanks again for sharing!
@@CM3000CM From what I can find AWD has more wheels than RWD especially there's a lot of BBS style with different diameters (standard 20mm and extra large 22mm). Some wheels are just different like the Rays which you have different style between RWD and AWD, also Mini-Z plastic wheel that you got RE30 or RWD and generic multi-spoke (looks like OZ). But other than that you'll get the same style from PN Racing, Atomic and GL Racing.
Wow 👍🤩👍
Very nice. I am just getting into the hobby. I got a kyosho mini z awd
Awesome. Ty
Yesh. Brushlesh motorsh are very amashing
Hallo mate. Just bought xc 10A and surpass hobby 6000kv motor. Can you tell me which wire goes where. There are no instruction. Thank you so much. Hope for your success and health. Cheers
You can wire the motor however you want, the A,B,C series doesn't matter since it's sensorless.
Just check that the brake works before checking the direction. If you can go forward then push the trigger and the motor stops then it's correct, if not reverse throttle channel on the radio. Then check the direction. If it runs backward when you pull the trigger then swap 2 wires on the motor. I usually swap the outer 2 wires because it makes routing the wires easier.
Watch this for more info about radio settings and ESC wiring. ruclips.net/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/видео.html
Great Job Beaver ;-) (y)
very nice modification. by the way where i can find rps/ rpm meter like that? thanks
It's DIY using Arduino and some plastic plate. Here's tutorial. ruclips.net/video/Yz50YrtiqqY/видео.html
You can also use Tamiya Speed Checker. This will give you more accurate reading because it has friction. www.1999.co.jp/eng/10131894 It's going in and out of stock quite often so check regularly.
Here's this speed checker in action. ruclips.net/video/hXH8iTWgpDo/видео.html
I’m curious here when you do the rear cs gear mod do you need to modify the stock gear so the new one will fit or have you found any that will fit without modifying I have a 14 t that is a a press on and the same cut gear as the wl so would the cs be more or would it be less likely to fit even with a rear modified gear
Yes, the rear diff needed modification as well. Here's the tutorial ruclips.net/video/t6PiUq-_9lI/видео.html
hi your videos are a Godsend to people looking to get into 1/28 drifting, im planning to get the wl989 but im on a tight budget, woud it drift like that even with just the essential parts on your list?
Yes. The parts on this car are what I show in the video. You don't even have to do brushless. I did it because I broke my brushed motor.
Do only the suspension fix & mods, upgrade the transmitter and you'll get a very good drift car.
i just ordered mine today, but I can not seem to find the front one way diff, dyou have any other links where I can get them?
@@josefpreyes Front one way from Sinohobby is out of stock (again). Right now what you can get is Mini-Z original part from Japan bit.ly/39Bivmz .
thanks for the link i'll order it next time together with a compatible shell, dyou have a list of compatible bodies to k989? thanks very much for the help to a newbie
@@josefpreyes I don't have a whole list of what fit and what doesn't.
Just something I've tried here.
- Corvette C7 ZR1: fits with custom front lip to lift the bonnet up a bit.
- Audi R8, Lexus SC430, Aston Martin DBR9: These cars need to lower the shock.
With this same method McLaren MP4-12C, Ferrari 458GT2 also fits.
- Honda Civic Type R: direct fit, only need 0mm offset narrow wheels and shave the wheel arches off a little bit. So all FWD like Renault Megan, Mazda 2 and Subaru WRX (4 door) will fit with the same method.
Also here's the video tutorial of lowering shock tower. ruclips.net/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/видео.html
Hi Beaver，I am really interested in your printed setup board，could you tell where to find it？😀
Here it is at page 23. www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3Wpns2hQkXcM5BF2PG22oDGho00WlTlaavE87bCyEDYr9e7YppoAxq75Y
@@BeaversHobby That's it, thanks a lot👍
wow...I wish I could do this
Hello Beaver, Hobbyking doesnt sell this programming card anymore. Do you know, which one I can use for the HobbyKing® ™ Brushless Car ESC 10A esc? Thanks!
You can use this from Aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002212779250.html
However if you haven't got the ESC yet, I suggest you check out the DasMikro ESC. It's way better than the one I presented in this video.
Also feel free to check out my 2021 update. ruclips.net/video/j9pO35iaqfo/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the fast answer, I would check the new video! :-)
@@zsozso70 My pleasure. Best of luck with the project!
How did you mod the motor mount for the smaller pinion?
Here's a full video of how to do that. ruclips.net/video/bQiR-cfBnvw/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Thank you, actually I discovered that yesterday. With the smaller pinion it is much cooler.
@@rizkiyoist My pleasure.
Try Dry lubricant(not wd-40) on gear , it will avoid abrasion，and not sticky dust
Thanks.
How you get your body I’ve followed your tutorials but all them bodies are sold out
The BMW body is very old and they don't make it anymore.
Hey beaver, I just did a cs mod, the gearing came out perfect, no wobble. But now when I hit the throttle to drive the car straight slowly it wants to turn left all the time no matter what. Any suggestions would help a lot
This is normal. After doing CS mod you'll need to install the front one way to allow the wheels to spin forward faster than the axle. Still, it might veer off to one side or spin if you let go of the throttle.
@@BeaversHobby bro thanks for your supper quick reply, yeah I haven’t installed my oneway yet cause I’m waiting on the 10.5 mm shaft to come in. Hopefully that makes it run straight will I give it a little throttle cause right now, it just shoots to the left when I give it some throttle
@@2k8franky My pleasure. It's hard to control now but once you get the one way it'll be much better.
Wonderful! I would want to try this but unfortunately I don't think I can.
Be patience. Try bit by bit and you'll get there eventually.
Thanks. I'll try my best and save money for it.
Beaver I am planning to try getting an Atomic Amz rwd. Do you have any recommendations or stuff like that? I don't have much money so I will need to go on a budget. Thanks in advance
What do you want it for? Touring car racing of drifting? For touring car it's very good so I highly recommend it. But for drifting you'll need to mod the front suspension and steering to have a lot more steering angle. Well, Atomic DRZ is essentially AMR with new front end, steering, servo mount and top deck anyway. Keep in mind that it doesn't come with wheels.
Beaver's Hobby thanks. I have a wltoys k969 and I don't like it that much and my brother lost one of the pins that secure the body. I also got a small off road car but didn't like it that much either. I went to my local mini rc store which only had touring cars for some stuff but didn't have much stuff except wheels. Then they went out of business. But before that closed down, I wanted to try a touring car of some sort. I wanted to try convert my wltoys to a touring car but I wanted a mini z body on it, but I remembered that you said that mini z bodies often won't work on wltoys 1/28. So I decided to try getting a better cheaper car even though it isn't cheaper. So I wanted to try getting a touring car. But now my brain is battling wether to get the chassis only and get the electronics or the ARR version which needs a body, battery and maybe wheels and tires. Thank you very much for reading this very long response. I am a big fan of yours.
Wesley
Im about to get a k969 but how can i make the windows on the stock body clear? Ill sub
There are many ways. You can use paint thinner, non-acetone nail polish, brake fluid or nitro fuel to remove the paint.
Try in a small area first because it might eat through the body.
Also after that the body might cloud or not entirely clear. You can use thinner to coat it and make it looks a bit better but the damage has been done anyway.
@@BeaversHobby thank you! ^-^
@@BeaversHobby should i use masking tape?
The glue on the tape is going to melt and become sticky. Try to swipe it off by hands is safer. But if you happen to go out off the area the just re-paint it back later.
@@BeaversHobby and also what are good first mods of the car
Should I order Kyosho MDT001 tires if I already have a SINOHOBBY Mini-Q3 Tires? Which ones are better? Or are they alike?
MDT001 are better. They are more rounded and smoother.
@@BeaversHobby Will it fit these discs? www.banggood.com/4PCS-Wltoys-Metal-Hub-RC-Car-Wheel-128-For-K989-And-IW04M-RC-Car-p-1358224.html
@@jackshatau7525 Yes, however these wheels are a bit smaller than standard Mini-Z wheels so you'll have to use thin double sided tape to mount the tyres.
Beaver... can we use programming card to any ESC?
No, each ESC has its own programming card. There are some cross compatibility but mostly limited to the same brand or clone with same firmware.
@@BeaversHobby ahh i see, so it's better to look for the combo esc motor n programing card rather than buy it randomly...
Cuz in my place, it's hard to find the compatible programing card with Esc 20A brushed {well i dunno what programing card should work with that}
@@harukaze5408 Normally a small brushed ESC isn't programmable.
Hmmm... actually i wanna build my k989 to be cs drift like urs cuz i'm still new in playing rc...
I hv build all the setting from the arm till the gear, but i hvn't change the electricity yet...
I hv planned to buy radiolink with built-in gyro connected to my brushed 20A esc...
What do u think?
Are these enough for drifting?
@@harukaze5408 I presume the 20A ESC you are talking about is the small red PCB one. That one is not good at all and you don't have low end control of the motor, it will just start at the fast and end at ballistic.
I highly recommend Dumborc 10A. Don't worry about the Ampre rating. It'll work without any problem. bit.ly/2qPpisf
You can also install small buzzer to beep when the battery is low too so you don't over discharge it. bit.ly/2S9ujXo
since atomic universal is out of stock, so the Rc aurora universal shaft will work just as well as the atomic?
Yes, the long shaft from RC Aurora will work too.
Any lego wheels that fit this? And is it possible to make a good looking lego body for it?
Lego wheels won't fit it directly. If you have 3D printer you can make an adapter to convert Mini-Z AWD shaft to Lego shaft. Anyway, even without Lego wheels you can still build some decent body out of Lego to cover it if you wish.
@@BeaversHobby Ah, thank you for the fast reply! I do in fact have a printer, however the nozzle is leaking badly and I cant afford fixing it right now (thats why I sold my 1/8 buggy to get this one). Fortunatly I've got tons of lego so I'll be building a body for it.
@@Gamleprofil You can do a lot with Lego on this car, even glue it down and use it as body mount. Just not the wheels.
Good luck with the project.
After spending so much time on improving the K989, wouldn't it be cheaper to buy directly a genuine MINI-Z ?
TL;DR version: It depends on what you want. You buy Mini-Z because you want to have an easy starting point. But it'll be very expensive if you want to do anything with the electronics.
Long answer:
If you want no complication then a Mini-Z AWD + upgrades would cost around $280-350 depending on where you live. Basically after that initial $230 for an AWD kit you'll have to change the swing shafts to metal or aluminium, replace front diff with front one way, lock rear diff or if you don't want to do that then buy a solid axle and finally get some springs to tune. And this is just to get it drifting well. I is still haven't touch on the CS mod yet which is at least another $5 for a gear set to mod but it's negligible when you already pay $230 for a base car.
However keep in mind that you'll be stuck with a radio that doesn't have any adjustability, a circuit board that if (actually when) it breaks down it'll be an expensive repair and brushed motor that doesn't have a lot of choice to upgrade due to the circuit board. And the worse thing about Mini-Z is that it has very limited steering angle. Sure, it'll work the same with $300 but with the lack of freedom with the electronics some would opt to get another car instead.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the info ! I thought recent Mini-Z had brushless motor already.
@@alphatangofpv2512 My pleasure. Brushless is only the EVO series which you'll have to add your own wheels, tyres, body, receiver and radio.
lock nuts wltoys k989 in what size?
M2
thank you
@@andreekaputra My pleasure.
Hello, i need some help! Im about to buy one of these for my son and myself. Can i ask you something? Thanks
Yes, of course. Just leave the question(s) and I'll come back to answer it.
Ok i see! :) Wanna buy the 969 for my son and myself so that we can play ocasionely at home and make some drift fun with it. Is it bette to choose the 989 and another diff that i would lock, if we sometimes want to drive normaly withut drifting? Or can i use regular non drift tyres on this 969 and drive without drifting? Some other youtuber mentioned that the 969 is quieter and faster. Is it true?
@@gaboaaa23 K969 is essentially the same car with locked diffs and drift tyres fitted as standard. If you want to drive normally too, K989 with extra diffs to lock and Kyosho Mini-Z wheels + drift tyres will be better.
If you fit standard tyres on K969 (with standard locked diff) it will be difficult to turn. Or you can get K969 then get extra normal tyres and open diff so you don't have to lock them yourself. Either way it's more or less the same. The difference is at the tyres you'll have to buy extra. The reason I suggest K989 + Mini-Z tyres because the tyres are better than K969. So in conclusion, choose it according to the body style you like and which extra parts you can buy easily. If you can buy Mini-Z parts easily, get the K989 because Mini-Z drift tyres are far superior than WLtoys drift tyres. If you only source the parts from Banggood, Aliexpress and ebay, get the K969 because diff and normal tyres are much easier to find.
As for the K969 being quieter, well, as I mentioned earlier these car are the same chassis with different tyres and diffs. However the build quality is mixed between cars and batches. He might have been lucky to get a quiet car with good gear mesh out of the box. If the gear mesh is too tight, it will slow the car down and makes a lot of noise.
I hope this is helpful and does not confuse you. Feel free to ask if you want any further clarification.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the long reply! Honestly, i just wanna make some fun at home so mini z tyres for extra 15 euros arent worth it for me. I saw the K969 drifting and its enough to have some fun. And if i want i can upgrade any time right? I have one ofer right now. Its a 989 and its has drift tyres and the nromal tyres too. With modified steering and fixed gear mash(eased up) and he wants 45 Euros. Do i have to be afraid of the motor or the electronic is worned out? He says its almost brand new never used it just once and is to fast for the house racing.
@@gaboaaa23 If you want brand new car K969 is more than enough to have fun sliding around. The offer you got is pretty good considering it's already fixed and has all the tyres you want. It'd be even better if that include shipping. Electronics are mixed of quality. Normally if you don't abuse it or run in very hot place it won't worn out or burn out that easily. Take the ESC cover off so it has better cooling.
Where can i find A4 for print for setup toe?
Here, page 23. www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR2tfAvaV3rzOLfDQKMhP2XTmGfxG6xtRrH7sM9EIgMf_5CAT4HevE23drw
How do you supply the LED's?
Directly from the battery with 330 Ohm resistor in the middle.
Thank you very much.
Hello Beaver, I have ordered the same brushless combo you recommend in your video, XC-10A ESC and Surpass 6000kV BL motor. Now I have the problem that the car does not start smoothly: when I start pulling the throttle trigger, the motor starts making stuttering sound but the car does not start until I pull the trigger to the end when the car suddenly rushes off with full speed. Same behavior when going backward. I canot go smoothly forward or backward: in both directions, the motor makes this stuttering sound until the trigger is at about 70% when the car suddenly rushes off like a rocket. Once the car is in movement, I can go below the 70%.
First they sent me the wrong motor (10500kV) and I thought the stuttering may be related to the motor not having enough torque to start smoothly due to the high kV value. But now I have the 6000kV motor and the behaviour is even worse: sometimes the motor doesn't even start if I pull the throttle trigger to the end. If I lift the car off the ground and pull the throttle trigger, the wheels are shaking slightly forth and backward and the motor makes this stuttering sound. Only when i pull the trigger several times, eventually the motor suddenly starts spinning.
Do you have any idea what could cause this problem?
I have played around with the "Advance Timing" and the "Start Power Percent" setting of the ESC but I could not find a setting, that solves the problem.
I have also followed your videos to improve the drive train: differentials and gears are quite smooth now, but behaivor of motor is still the same.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Try removing it from the car first and dry run it to see if you can make it working correctly. I suspect there might be problem at the terminal on the motor. Make absolutely sure that all 3 are separated. You can try swapping the wires too and see if that works.
For programming, start power around 12-20% should be OK to make the car move. Timing is per your personal preference.
If nothing works I'm afraid the ESC is broken (DOA).
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much for your quick answer. I had removed the motor from the car before. Without any load (drive train) there is absolutely no problem - motor starts smoothly and I can control speed over the whole range of the travel of the trigger (I don't believe, that there is a problem in the wiring).
Raising the start power to the max. (29%) clearly improved the behavior - when pulling the trigger, the car starts moving earlier than before - however, there is still a slight "stuttering" before the car starts to move. Once the car moves, I can control speed and acceleration much better now. Thank's a lot for your help.
@@tobiasbobst6532 Glad it all worked out. You probably need to max out both start power and timing in this case. Stuttering can also occur when the motor doesn't have enough torque to start the car. Which is pretty normal for Surpass Hobby.
@@BeaversHobby Ok, thx.
May I ask you another question (a bit off-topic)? On my WlToys k989 the (original) differentials weare out very quickly although I have optimized the drive train according to your videos. But the pinion gears of the shaft drive and the spur gears of the differentials still weare out very quickly and there are not many options to optimize this with the original gears.
So I think about changing the the differentials to the ones you suggested ( www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1162&products_id=14104). I think I will also have to use wide universal shaft (www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13170). However, this will still not change the transmission from pinion of the central shaft to spur gear of differentials and therefore may still not solve the problem (also friction of the drive train in general will be improved again). What do you think? Would this upgrade be worth its money (it is quit expensive though)? Would it help prevent the pinion and differentials from wearing out that quick?
Other than that I was thinking about buying the Atomic BZ EVO 2017 (instead of investing in new differentials and shafts for the k989). I would assume that the belt drive in general would produce less friction and therefore also wear out less quickly. Do you have any thoughts on that? Do you have any experience with Atomic BZ?
@@tobiasbobst6532 Yes, you'll need the long shaft to go with diff. The parts you pick will work together and will boost the handling of this car quite a lot. However, as you might have suspected it will not solve the pinion gear wearing out issue. You'll either have to keep replacing it or mod it with 8T pinion from Tamiya Mini 4WD (or similar).
And Yes, they're pretty expensive. You can get AMZ chassis only for not much more than all these combined and you're already have brushless system to go in. AMZ is ~65 USD and come with metal shafts + ball diffs. These are almost 60 already.
I don't have experience with BZ2017 (yet) but people are asking me to get one and see if I can solve the sloppy steering issue. As of now GLA 2.0 is the best chassis. Or get the Atomic AMZ, it's a solid car and not too expensive.
what is difference between ATOMIC Steel Universal Shaft 10.5mm and the WLtoys Metal Upgrade Drive Shaft Dog Bone For 1/28 RC Car ? Thx
Wltoys drve shaft is about 9mm long and doesn't reach Mini-Z's differential drive cup.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks, that was fast. I was asking this question since you recommend this :Sinohobby 1/28 RC Car Parts Head Unit For Mini-Q V28-005ZA
If I were to get that Sinohobby diff, will the wltoys shaft work or I will still need to get the atomic shaft? thx
@@serajk1727 You'll still need long shaft because Sinohobby is essentially using Mini-Z format. But you don't necessary need shaft from atomic (they stopped making the part I use anyway). I suggest the RC Aurora shafts as they are much better. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Blue-1Pair-Long%29.html
You'll also need 6x8mm spacer/shim because Sinohobby doesn't give you anymore. ppm-rcracing.com/products/6.1-x-8mm-Stainless-Steel-Shim-Set-%280.1%2C-0.2%2C-0.3mm-10%7B47%7Dea%29.html
@@BeaversHobby Thx. I think now I understand but why do we need the Shinohobby diff and universal shafts? what is wrong with the diff and shafts that come with the k969?
@@serajk1727 Stock part is gear diff and doesn't have handbrake effect. Also it doesn't allow the wheel to run forward faster than the drivetrain which makes the car undrivable in CS configuration (rear spins faster than front).
Stock shaft is short and doesn't reach Mini-Z type drive cup. The reason being this car is kind of re-design of Mini-Z AWD but it's wider and they get around this by making diffs with longer drive cups instead of using long shafts.
rc k989 can play on asphalt roads and can the motorbike be upgraded or not
Yes, if the road is not too bumpy. Motor? Yes, that can be upgraded too.
@@BeaversHobby terima kasih
@@BeaversHobby thank you bro
@@muhamaddahmadii5067 My pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby can you show me how to learn to play rc drift for beginners bro
Dónde has comprado esas llantas ?
Banzaihobby. bit.ly/2I3a74k
And here're the whels. bit.ly/2WSecRf
You can find them in Kyosho dealers too.
Muchaz gracias 😉
Sabrias donde encontrar carcasas transparentes para poder pintarla al gusto?
@@marianin797 Check RC mart. www.rcmart.com/miniz-mr02-mr03-mr03f-c-438_2067_1142.html
But if you want Mini-Z body, banzaihobby also has it.
hi. Is it better to use the rc4s receiver's gyro??
Yes, the gyro will hep a lot and the car will be much easier to drive. It's not necessary with CS car though unlike RWD car that you need to have a gyro. But it'll help.
How to fix K969 servo turn into reverse steering?
If you use the standard transmitter and 2-in-1, you'll need to take the transmitter apart. Then swap the wires on steering potentiometer to make it go into opposite direction.
If you already replace the transmitter and ESC then reverse channel 1 on your transmitter.
δωδωνη for bumper????????
Χορηγός: Δωδώνη. χαχαχα
Sorry bro, if RC K989 can or no yes, all gear is full metal, not plastic anymore for RC K989, if you can, please make a video on RUclips
From what I know it's only the motor pinion that's metal.
Where i can dowload the mit set up board to stamp?
Page 23 of this MIT manual.
www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3QmnUewjY-yf-Nl9LRFPDlgIK7IAEo8D12O7nzRY7vyIwPRoc1Xb09Sz4
will slicks fit on stock rims
Yes. But they might not work so well because stock wheels have groove. I recommend new wheels without groove (standard Mini-Z AWD type).
@@BeaversHobby thanks for info and good job
What is cs
Rear wheels spin faster than front. Full explanation here. ruclips.net/video/N2D1rALTQPY/видео.html
What lights are you using on you body?
Cheap 3 mm LED. Got them for like 5 USD with 300 of them in a bag.
Beaver's Hobby is there any links?
Here you go www.banggood.com/300Pcs-20Ma-F3-3MM-5Colors-Ultra-Bright-LED-Diode-p-969080.html
Beaver's Hobby thanks
ขอลิงค์โหลดกระดาษปรับองศาล้อหน่อย นาทีที่ 8.24 ครับ
เอามาจากคู่มือเล่มนี้ หน้า 23 ครับ www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR1pbp6T9LoxFVUSFE674u-aP062DspvOw16qYvljDeWgjNwdjaO2M0cj4M
CAN you stop chi chi chi
I wish you would sell me that. Lol
This car is no more. I rebuilt it to RWD then broke it.
I love how I said flesh instead of finger le a normal person 🤣🤣🤣
if you boring with that car, donate it to me :D
ถ้าโมแบบนี้แล้วรถจะยังเอาไปวิ่งแบบสมบุกสมบันได้ไหมครับหรือโมแบบนี้เฉพาะพื้นเรียบเท่านั้น
แล้วก็ขอดูรูปชุดของ esc ที่โมแล้วในคลิปนี้ด้วยได้ไหมครับ
ลุยไม่ได้แล้วครับ อันนี้คือทำมาดริฟท์โดยเฉพาะบนพื้นเรียบเท่านั้น
อันนี้รื้อไปแล้วครับ ไปแปลงเป็นขับหลังแล้ว ชุดไฟยังอันเดิมอยู่ แค่เปลี่ยนที่ติด
ในคลิปก็พอมองเห็นแต่ต้องกดหยุดเอา ถ้าจะเป็นภาพ ตอนนี้มันเป็นแบบนี้ไปแล้วครับ
imgur.com/A5Qwgyu
imgur.com/wWvX4HV
อ่อเคครับพอดีผมชอบลุยๆคงโมตามไม่ได้555
@@นายพาระนิดนามามี เดิม ๆ ลุยดีอยู่แล้วครับ ไม่ต้องกังวลเลย โดยเฉพาะถ้าได้ตัวมอนสเตอร์ทรัก P929 นะ วิ่งบนถนนได้เลย
hi Beaver's Hobby, I watch all your videos and I got inspired so I bought the K989 car and start modifying it to a drift car. till to date I have done the FOW (Sinohobby) with the 10.5mm UJ (GLracing), Change the Motor Gear and spur Gear to my comfort to drive. Currently, I'm planning to upgrade to Brushless Motor and ESC.
My question is:
1. how many KV motors are best for drifting
2. is the ESC from HobbyWing (16BL30) ok for this car?
3. if i wanted to upgrade the servo, what is the size that i should buy?
hopefully, you could get back to me. or better email if possible (redza_ar@yahoo.com)
Thank you so much for your hard work making us fall in love with this budget drift car.
keep up the good work.
REDZA
Malaysia.
1. 3500KV is a place to start but actually it depends on your driving style, more torque = less KV, more speed = higher KV.
2. It's a bit too big and heavy. Try EZrun 18A.
3. 5g but shorter lenghth than standard. WLtoys and Mini-Q uses the same size and there's metal gear for servo too. The best servo you can get is XRX MD1 or AGF A11CLS servo, it's a bit narrower than standard but you can put pad the bracket with a plastic sheet and it's super accurate + extremely fast.
@@BeaversHobby thanks Man... You are very helpful...
I have ordered the aluminium hop-up kit for my car. Hopefully all item fits...
Thanks again..
@@redzaar The aluminium kit needs a bit of tinkering to work like replacing the adjustment screw to fix the camber. Just be patience with it.