The ball diff has good gear mesh however it can still chew the pinion since it's made of metal (if you got the metal one). So, yes, it's a good upgrade. If you want more durability you should mod the pinion to use other gear or even metal gear.
I just made my k969 into a touring car. It uses medium size tamiya tires. Very very grippy. The front uses the locked diff it originally came with. The rear was a regular differential for the K989. The handling was great. It was fun Until the drive cups on the lock differential broke, as well as a broken dogbone shaft. And that’s just for cornering and heavy braking. I’m surprised, it can’t handle its own power from the stock brushed motor.
Nice that you find one that works. I used to use small tyres from Super-X chassis Max Breaker but it needs a bit of trimming. Well, WLtoys has a habit of putting too much power in the car. And their plastic isn't that durable so this tends to happen... a lot.
Beaver's Hobby For mini 4wd parts I was thinking I should’ve use small diameter tires for the aluminum wheels. I had to use 2 layers of double sided tape for medium diameter tires to fit snugly on the aluminum wheels. I wasn’t able to trim so the tires actually extend 2mm on the outside of the wheel, and the car became wider than the body shell. I had to fender roll the Porsche body.
It's the clear body from Mini-Q. I don't think you can find this exact one nowadays but there are much more choices for this kind of racing body. Take a look here www.rcmart.com/atomic-vst-98mm-wheelbase-1-28-clear-lexan-body-set-for-1-27-mini-z-car-kit-amz-op011-vst-00105851 or here www.rcmart.com/pn-racing-supra-a90-1-28-lightweight-version-lexan-clear-body-set-for-1-28-rc-600813l-00107717 .
I just got myself a wltoys k969. I also bought: (not yet delivered) - standard diff set that are not locked. - alloys wheels same as the one on your video. Coming from my experience in the 1/8 onroad nitro, the diff setup of that car is locked rear (spool) and one way on the front. My Question for wltoys K989 touring. Would you prefer loosed front and locked rear, or locked front and loose rear? The goal is stability and high speed cornering.
Beaver's Hobby I had a feeling that it would be the complete opposite of of larger scale cars. Thank you, you are no doubt the king when it comes to 1/28.
was gona order 2 of these hoping it will be trouble free unlike the stock diffs. ah good thing you posteds this review. just a question beaver, does the jjrc diffs from banggood, not ball diffs i believe, work with the k989 without mods?
Hi! I bought the WLtoys metal differentials, but they're slightly different than those in your video (they have a nut instead) and shorter than the original diffs. Do you know if they're adjustable in length? If not, how can I make them fit in WLtoys 284131? Thanks
It's lexan/soft body from Mini-Q Q7. I don't think this exact one is available anymore but you can buy something similar from racing companies like PN Racing, Atomic, etc. Here are some examples. www.rcmart.com/pn-racing-supra-a90-1-28-lexan-clear-body-set-600813-00107300 www.rcmart.com/atomic-vst-98mm-wheelbase-1-28-clear-lexan-body-set-for-1-27-mini-z-car-kit-amz-op011-vst-00105851 www.rcmart.com/atomic-1-28-ek9-98mm-wheelbase-lexan-clear-body-set-for-kyosho-mini-z-amz-op011-ek9-00085879
Hi Beaver, I am bothering you for a problem that I cannot solve.The pinions or the crown of the differential is crumbling or continuously, the originals have lasted more than 3o charges, these that I mount after 5 charges are damaged, or the pinion, or the differential crown, both the originals and those purchased adjustable. Do you have any idea what this could depend on? incorrect assembly? or the esc works badly? Thanks
You can mod the pinion like in this video (skip to 5:45) ruclips.net/video/ci54dkbc_Bc/видео.html . Replace the diffs with Mini-Z diffs bit.ly/33sU0VD and swap the CVD for long shaft ones bit.ly/3m1i4bd .
@@BeaversHobby Ok thanks, I already have the differentials, I miss the cvd, while for the pinion I did not understand what to do, I bought 5 sets on banggood, but they are as soft as the originals, could you write me here which modification to do, thanks, I'm Italian and I don't understand from the video :(
@@simau76 1. File down the original gear so it become a shaft with 2mm diameter. 2. Get a 8T plastic or metal gear, you can get this from Tamiya Mini 4WD motor pinion (it's pretty popular in Italy as far as I remember) or you can get this gear from any small plastic gear set. 3. Put the 8T gear on the shaft you prepared in (1.). 4. File down the gear to size so it's not too long in the gearbox.
I got my stuffs from a shop on ebay www.ebay.com/usr/yoshidrichar0 but there's no listing anymore. You can look in the Broad Tech too. www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProduct.aspx?type=Search&keyword=ma020ve
Hi Beav I also have the wltoys ball diff and it has the same sticky spot 😡 I have ground down everywhere you cover here, but I cant get it to be smooth. Would you recommend I also sand down the top and bottom of the middle plate aswell? I already have... but it didnt fix it. What would you suggest?
Try rolling a sand paper in to cone and polish the bearing slots in crown gear. Or use body reamer if you have one. If that still don't help then it's a write-off.
The original wheel nuts are 4mm (standard M2 locknut). You can also upgrade them with aluminium wheel nuts which are 4.5mm. So I'd say if you'll get a set of tool, get one that has both 4mm and 4.5mm.
It's racing body from Mini-Q. I think it's discontinued. Nowadays there are many lexan bodies to choose from. Here's one for example. www.rcmart.com/marka-racing-98mm-wheelbase-rk-hc-racing-lexan-regular-clear-body-set-for-mini-z-mrk-8024-07-00105734
Hello, I got a kit with camber arms but they require screws that are missing because the ball joints is inside the arm. Do you know which screws I should use? Have you ever tried this type of joints
The screws are M2 6mm length. I've tried the whole aluminium upgrade kit before and made a video (actually 2) to warn people not to buy it. Here's the fix you'll have to do. ruclips.net/video/cKw-T2f-Qms/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby thanks my kit is possibly even worst. Didn't come with the screws but come with a servo ( not sure why) and also in the lower side of the arm is missing the ball seat so basically is screw on the top part of the knuckle and on the cotton side as well. Sadly I was missing your specific video among the whole bunch I saw....
@@BeaversHobby Will try that the next time. but wouldnt grease make it slip more? orderd new ones from ebay, its a lot faster deliverd.Thanks to youre channel i have now 2 k989's and the 3d is underway. 1 im going to fit the demio (mazda2) mini-z shell. orderd the lexus one to. 3 one will be for fpv fun :) i love those little buggers. love the aluminium shocks. hope they will still fit with the mazda model. Thx for all youre hard work on the k989 saves me some time for my mod plans
@@Dragon69FlyTeam The grease you use has to be a very sticky one (there's specific gerase for ball diff too). By the way if you want to fit Mazda 2 shell on you'll have to use 0mm offset wheels and probably shave off a bit of wheel arches off as well. I don't know about the shock though but FWD body has quite high bonnet so I have high hope it'll fit with no problem. Let me know how it turns out. Good luck and have fun!
@@BeaversHobby Thx for youre fast reply will be a long term project but when done i defently will let you know. im waiting for all upgrade parts and still not sure what collor i will paint it in. For the rims im going to try to print some. I have a older model mazda as real car and had some nice rims on them witch where a little bit to wide(sticking out the car) Im not to worried about that. first look it seems to fit. dunno if it is much fun to drive it like a fwd car. i think in this scale it has to much understeer. will see its a easy mod and easy to bring back to original state. think i will use a verry smooth diff in front for fwd onley. its more a scale replyca then used for racing. that will i do with my other 2 k989's :)
I wouldn't use wd40 on ball berings it damages them i would instead use a lube made specifically for small bearings like for skateboard bearings or for yo yos for example
First, check the trim if your transmitter has it. Is it still the transmitter with red handle? If so then you can press the TH TR buttons to see if it can turn the centre back to the mid point and try again. Also see if when you push the trigger twice and it engage the reverse, pull from there and see if it goes in forward or any opposite direction. If you pull the trigger and the car goes backward then the motor wiring is reverse, swap the wires and it will be OK. If nothing helps I'm afraid the 2-in-1 unit might be faulty.
Getting one that works perfectly was really lucky. Stripping pinion was to be expected though. I modded my gear to use Tamiya pinion so it has better plastic and last a bit longer. Still got chewed though but it lasted a bit longer than original.
Beaver's Hobby I also had the plastic version of the ball diff with the only parts being metal are the balls and plates sandwiching the balls. I think they were meant for sinohobby, though not sure. But the gears on that diff was really weak. I had 4 and they all get strip on light impacts After buying a pair of aluminum ball diffs, and two pairs of plastic ball diffs for wltoys. It cost me around 35$ equivalent for upgrades that didn’t work very well. The common problem with both aluminum and plastic ball diff is clear to me now. The ring gear lacks surface area. While the aluminum was too sharp, hence why it chewed the pinion. The plastic being too structurally weak, the ring gear is the one chewed instead. They were not well designed as teeth were only 1mm thick. But I came into a conclusion which diff is the best for that car both pricewise and performance wise. The original ones which had teeth that are 2mm thick. The cup joints are the weak point of the original. But that’s because I was using the k969 locked diff and it underwent a lot rotational stress combined with the super grippy tires and high speed cornering. I used the standard non locked now. I added 15,000wt diff oil in the front and some tape to seal it. It Worked, and now it can at the least accelerate at full power with very little worry of the gears stripping.
today i fitted ball differentials on my k989. it's really a great up grade! the only one i couldn't do without! i almost found the sensations i have in 1/8. otherwise, i don't understand english well. do you advise greasing them on the balls? and outside ?
They are the same car. But if you take the out of the box state then K969 is more drift ready because it has drift tyres and locked diff as standard. But here's my advice: - K989 comes with open diff and grip tyres, you'll have to lock the diff (with glue or blu tack) then change the tyres. - K969 tyres are not that good so you'll have to change the tyres anyway. In the end just choose the body you like. The chassis is the same.
I have a question sir I have a k989 and I replaced the diff and gear box to aluminum and when I try rolling it it binds up. Does it need shims? I haven’t installed the brushless setup cause I know it will destroy the diff and gears. Please any advice will help. Thank you
Hey I got it going it was the aluminum cases I went back with the original. I got shims but I just stuck with the original. Do you want the aluminum ones I’ll send them to you along with an aluminum kit if you want them. I have so much I won’t use.
Hey man I have the k989 and have a problem: all of a sudden it’s lost performance and makes a kind of grinding sound. Checked the diffs and they seem fine. Do I need to take out the little gears in the diff and check them too?
Check all the gears to see if there's anything blocking them. Also try and pull the motor out and run it to see if there's any strange noise coming from it. While the motor is out, check if the drivetrain is smooth without anything blocking it. If nothing else works then open up the diffs to check is the final step.
Beaver's Hobby thank you so much. I fixed it! I did as per your video and filed some plastic away in the diff parts and it’s much smoother now. Weird how it was fine for like 10 battery packs then it needed this. Does the plastic expand or something in the diff? Have ordered some new diffs anyway. I think these plastic stock ones aren’t very durable.
@@jct4111 It probably wear down and some debris were blocking the diff. Alternatively you can use Mini-Z AWD diff with long CVD. It'll be much more durable. Here're the long CVD. bit.ly/3m1i4bd You can find Mini-Z diff in a Kyosho or Mini-Z distributor. Or order one from Japan if there's airmail option it's not that expensive, otherwise look other places. bit.ly/2M9hSrv
My hex socket driver is too thick for the wheel I bought :( I think you linked one for 1 dollar that fits, do you have the link or name somewhere? Would be much appreciated :)
I use something like this one bit.ly/2EmCA2R . The head is pretty small but it's shallow. If you use wheels like P929 monster truck it won't go inside. But for standard onroad wheels it'll work.
As I mentioned in the beginning of the test, I didn't bother to clean the floor so the car slid all the way. The actual performance is between non-treaded and foam.
Ok so the treaded tyres in the link are the fastest? I’m on a wooden floor. Just bought 3x k969 with my friends with those tyres and some rims. Decided against changing diffs for the time being but got the brushless and transmitter/receiver combo and a wing for one car for fun. We all chose different rims and paint.
@@Baddiework Best tyres I've used so far are foam tyres from X-Power. I don't know where you are but in Europe you can buy them from Mini-Z Racing Italia. Front www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_85_92_368_371&products_id=6192 Rear www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_85_92_368_371&products_id=13953
@@Buddhacat83 Right now there are 3 choices. RC Aurora which is the best. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-1-Pair-Long%29.html Atomic SZ which should be the same as what I have. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1162&products_id=14091 Eagle Racing, they work fine. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-11L-AL-Universal-Joint-Shaft-L-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253151171457
No, it's not. Ball diff is a differential that you can adjust the tension between 2 wheels. One way is a tube with one way bearing inside and only sends power to the wheels when it spins forward.
Hi! Some days ago I started watching Your channel. I've got a simple question - does a drift car need such 'fancy' upgrades? Guys in my country drive old BMWs with welded diffs and drift quite smoothly, so I would like to know - do I even need my small RC car to have 4WD? Or a RWD stiff rear axle would drift ok too? I know it would probably be harder to control, but I mean, do You think it could work? (without gyro etc. ) Great videos btw! Greetings!
For any RC to drift you only need AWD, plastic rings for tyres and locked diff (welded diff) and it'll slide. All the fancy upgrades are to make it drives more precisely and more suitable to the track driver's preference. You can also do RWD RC drifting providing you have enough steering angle. Gyro is needed because you're not in the car and the steering won't kick back like in real car. However you can learn to drive without it, it's just very, very difficult to do so.
@@yasxn3621 GNB 2S HV 7.6V 350mAh is great and fit the original bracket. If you remove the battery brackets and stick it down with tape then you can fit up to 450mAh.
@@BeaversHobby Sorry if I am bothering you but what parts are most prone to breaking and what dogbone shafts could i get that are the same as stock dog bone shafts I greatly appreciate your time
@@yasxn3621 The centre shaft pinion and diff are the most usual parts to wear out quickly. Nowadays there are metal gears to prolong the life. As for dogbones, I highly recommend getting the long one like this bit.ly/3m1i4bd and you can use Mini-Z differential which are much better quality and fitting than WLtoys' diff.
Does your car drive in a straight line with those because the stock ones are warped and driving in a straight line is near impossible let alone trying to drift🤔
My car drives in straight line but it needed a bit of fix to work. Here's the part 1 where I started to fix this car. ruclips.net/video/TnhriaSSfSA/видео.html If your parts are warped then you'll have to replace them.
Yes, it can. But the standard diff can be locked too so there's not much point to buy this upgrade for drift. Getting a good front one way is better for drifting.
@@hmwn2794 Wheels are good but offset is a bit too much. The tyres are what you change to make it drift. Combining these wheels with Kyosho tyres and it's OK. I personally prefer lower offset though. Another good wheels are RC Aurora, GL Racing and PN Racing. They all make racing-grade wheels and they look good. As for drift tyres apart from Kyosho tyres, look for Atomic and DS Racing.
@@reekooism No, they don't if you use them with WLtoys K989. This 2.5mm offset is far too deep for M3 and the wheels will stick out of the body a lot and you can't steer. You'll need 0mm offset wheels like these. bit.ly/30ThqD2
@@ricardomaldonado601 No, you can't put pressure plates on it because the diff is made in the way that can't put the plates in. To make it work better I suggest you replace the bearing with thrust bearing. That will make the diff work as intended. Yes, the metal diff is better than the stock diff because it isn't so big that it got stuck inside the gearbox until it's difficult to turn.
@@ricardomaldonado601 I bought it from a Mini-Z racing shop. It's supposed to be a spare part for AMZ. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=960 Basically it's just a thrust bearing with 2mm inner diameter.
I wouldn't call it rally because ride height is too low to do any rallying. It's more suitable to use as a touring car or or driving around on paved road.
True but this thing can be tuned to the moon and thats what makes it fun xD. I'm planning to buy this car after seeing your video. My question is does the pinion wears out quickly when using this ball diff? Have you tried the one with blue or red?
@@cityofplant Yes, these ball diffs chew the pinions to pieces not long after I published this video. The blue or the red ones are no different. Try to find a ball diff that has plastic gear but metal drive cups if you could.
![[Arduino] DIY RC Speed Checker](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Yz50YrtiqqY/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Arduino] DIY RC Speed Checker](/img/tr.png)
Time Stamps
Intro: 0:12
Update: 0:20
Aluminium Wheels & New Tyres: 0:52
Introduction To Ball Diff: 2:00
WLtoys Ball Diff. Review: 2:46
How To Fix WLtoys Ball Diff: 3:40
Rebuild Ball Diff: 4:46
Run-in Ball Diff: 5:47
How To Adjust Ball Diff: 6:05
Test Drive:
6:34
Conclusion: 7:20
Dude, i have learnt so much from u... and my wltoys p929 is most grateful too 😉
So thanQ good Sir
Never ordering from BangGood again, but I'm glad they're looking after you. Great info buddy, thanks.
Well, at least the stuff arrived. Some times broken but at least it arrived though.
Nevers have problèm with banggood since many year.
I wonder what kind of lap time a robot vacuum cleaner would get around your track.. ?😉
I'm planing on doing some of these upgrades.
Is the WLToys ball differential as tight (the gear mesh) as the original plastic gear diff?
The ball diff has good gear mesh however it can still chew the pinion since it's made of metal (if you got the metal one). So, yes, it's a good upgrade. If you want more durability you should mod the pinion to use other gear or even metal gear.
Nice Tuning!
Can you recommend the Titan hex, the blades last long and sit well?
I just made my k969 into a touring car. It uses medium size tamiya tires. Very very grippy. The front uses the locked diff it originally came with. The rear was a regular differential for the K989. The handling was great.
It was fun Until the drive cups on the lock differential broke, as well as a broken dogbone shaft. And that’s just for cornering and heavy braking. I’m surprised, it can’t handle its own power from the stock brushed motor.
Nice that you find one that works.
I used to use small tyres from Super-X chassis Max Breaker but it needs a bit of trimming.
Well, WLtoys has a habit of putting too much power in the car. And their plastic isn't that durable so this tends to happen... a lot.
Beaver's Hobby For mini 4wd parts I was thinking I should’ve use small diameter tires for the aluminum wheels. I had to use 2 layers of double sided tape for medium diameter tires to fit snugly on the aluminum wheels. I wasn’t able to trim so the tires actually extend 2mm on the outside of the wheel, and the car became wider than the body shell. I had to fender roll the Porsche body.
Id be lost without you buddy😁 thanks again!!
Great video as always!! 👍👍👍
Hello just wondering what body you used for that car
It's the clear body from Mini-Q. I don't think you can find this exact one nowadays but there are much more choices for this kind of racing body. Take a look here www.rcmart.com/atomic-vst-98mm-wheelbase-1-28-clear-lexan-body-set-for-1-27-mini-z-car-kit-amz-op011-vst-00105851 or here www.rcmart.com/pn-racing-supra-a90-1-28-lightweight-version-lexan-clear-body-set-for-1-28-rc-600813l-00107717 .
I just got myself a wltoys k969.
I also bought: (not yet delivered)
- standard diff set that are not locked.
- alloys wheels same as the one on your video.
Coming from my experience in the 1/8 onroad nitro, the diff setup of that car is locked rear (spool) and one way on the front.
My Question for wltoys K989 touring. Would you prefer loosed front and locked rear, or locked front and loose rear? The goal is stability and high speed cornering.
For touring front locked or stiff and rear loose is more preferable. It'll have a hint of understeer but it'll be stable.
Beaver's Hobby I had a feeling that it would be the complete opposite of of larger scale cars. Thank you, you are no doubt the king when it comes to 1/28.
was gona order 2 of these hoping it will be trouble free unlike the stock diffs. ah good thing you posteds this review. just a question beaver, does the jjrc diffs from banggood, not ball diffs i believe, work with the k989 without mods?
Yes, JJRC gear diff works with WLtoys too. From what I heard it also has better quality.
Hi! I bought the WLtoys metal differentials, but they're slightly different than those in your video (they have a nut instead) and shorter than the original diffs. Do you know if they're adjustable in length? If not, how can I make them fit in WLtoys 284131? Thanks
The length is not adjustable. If the diff is too narrow you'll have to do the same trick as using Mini-Z diffs, use long CVDs. bit.ly/3m1i4bd
Where did you get that blue and white body?
It's lexan/soft body from Mini-Q Q7. I don't think this exact one is available anymore but you can buy something similar from racing companies like PN Racing, Atomic, etc. Here are some examples.
www.rcmart.com/pn-racing-supra-a90-1-28-lexan-clear-body-set-600813-00107300
www.rcmart.com/atomic-vst-98mm-wheelbase-1-28-clear-lexan-body-set-for-1-27-mini-z-car-kit-amz-op011-vst-00105851
www.rcmart.com/atomic-1-28-ek9-98mm-wheelbase-lexan-clear-body-set-for-kyosho-mini-z-amz-op011-ek9-00085879
I think in general balls differetials ore not that good. In practice you need a good oil or grease. Then it is very hard to tune.
Hi Beaver, I am bothering you for a problem that I cannot solve.The pinions or the crown of the differential is crumbling or continuously, the originals have lasted more than 3o charges, these that I mount after 5 charges are damaged, or the pinion, or the differential crown, both the originals and those purchased adjustable. Do you have any idea what this could depend on? incorrect assembly? or the esc works badly? Thanks
You can mod the pinion like in this video (skip to 5:45) ruclips.net/video/ci54dkbc_Bc/видео.html . Replace the diffs with Mini-Z diffs bit.ly/33sU0VD and swap the CVD for long shaft ones bit.ly/3m1i4bd .
@@BeaversHobby Ok thanks, I already have the differentials, I miss the cvd, while for the pinion I did not understand what to do, I bought 5 sets on banggood, but they are as soft as the originals, could you write me here which modification to do, thanks, I'm Italian and I don't understand from the video :(
@@simau76 1. File down the original gear so it become a shaft with 2mm diameter.
2. Get a 8T plastic or metal gear, you can get this from Tamiya Mini 4WD motor pinion (it's pretty popular in Italy as far as I remember) or you can get this gear from any small plastic gear set.
3. Put the 8T gear on the shaft you prepared in (1.).
4. File down the gear to size so it's not too long in the gearbox.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks!
@@simau76 My pleasure.
Hey Beaver, who are you using for an Eagle supplier? Link?
I got my stuffs from a shop on ebay www.ebay.com/usr/yoshidrichar0 but there's no listing anymore.
You can look in the Broad Tech too. www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProduct.aspx?type=Search&keyword=ma020ve
Hi Beav I also have the wltoys ball diff and it has the same sticky spot 😡 I have ground down everywhere you cover here, but I cant get it to be smooth. Would you recommend I also sand down the top and bottom of the middle plate aswell? I already have... but it didnt fix it. What would you suggest?
Try rolling a sand paper in to cone and polish the bearing slots in crown gear. Or use body reamer if you have one. If that still don't help then it's a write-off.
@@BeaversHobbyIll try this thank you If I cant get it working itll be re-homed as a locked rear metal diff
What tool u use to remove wheels? And is it 4mm 5 mm or h much
The original wheel nuts are 4mm (standard M2 locknut).
You can also upgrade them with aluminium wheel nuts which are 4.5mm. So I'd say if you'll get a set of tool, get one that has both 4mm and 4.5mm.
which body are you using in this video? looks like a clear lexan body.
It's racing body from Mini-Q. I think it's discontinued. Nowadays there are many lexan bodies to choose from. Here's one for example. www.rcmart.com/marka-racing-98mm-wheelbase-rk-hc-racing-lexan-regular-clear-body-set-for-mini-z-mrk-8024-07-00105734
Hello, I got a kit with camber arms but they require screws that are missing because the ball joints is inside the arm. Do you know which screws I should use? Have you ever tried this type of joints
The screws are M2 6mm length. I've tried the whole aluminium upgrade kit before and made a video (actually 2) to warn people not to buy it.
Here's the fix you'll have to do. ruclips.net/video/cKw-T2f-Qms/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby thanks my kit is possibly even worst. Didn't come with the screws but come with a servo ( not sure why) and also in the lower side of the arm is missing the ball seat so basically is screw on the top part of the knuckle and on the cotton side as well. Sadly I was missing your specific video among the whole bunch I saw....
@@marcogtturbo Good luck with the fix. It needs a lot of tinkering but hopefully you can get it working.
So my front stock open diff messed up on the inside should I lock the diff and put it in the back
If it's for touring, lock it and put it in the front. If it's for drifting, put it in the back.
@@BeaversHobby ohh I didn’t know that and thank you
my diff was bad to. keeps slipping and when thightning them up it just snapped... the bolt.
If it slip, a bit of thick grease for ball diff might help. But if the bolt snap... well... nothing can fix that. Get a better diff is the solution.
@@BeaversHobby Will try that the next time. but wouldnt grease make it slip more? orderd new ones from ebay, its a lot faster deliverd.Thanks to youre channel i have now 2 k989's and the 3d is underway. 1 im going to fit the demio (mazda2) mini-z shell. orderd the lexus one to. 3 one will be for fpv fun :) i love those little buggers. love the aluminium shocks. hope they will still fit with the mazda model. Thx for all youre hard work on the k989 saves me some time for my mod plans
@@Dragon69FlyTeam The grease you use has to be a very sticky one (there's specific gerase for ball diff too). By the way if you want to fit Mazda 2 shell on you'll have to use 0mm offset wheels and probably shave off a bit of wheel arches off as well. I don't know about the shock though but FWD body has quite high bonnet so I have high hope it'll fit with no problem. Let me know how it turns out. Good luck and have fun!
@@BeaversHobby Thx for youre fast reply will be a long term project but when done i defently will let you know. im waiting for all upgrade parts and still not sure what collor i will paint it in. For the rims im going to try to print some. I have a older model mazda as real car and had some nice rims on them witch where a little bit to wide(sticking out the car) Im not to worried about that. first look it seems to fit. dunno if it is much fun to drive it like a fwd car. i think in this scale it has to much understeer. will see its a easy mod and easy to bring back to original state. think i will use a verry smooth diff in front for fwd onley. its more a scale replyca then used for racing. that will i do with my other 2 k989's :)
great video, what did you use to grease the center bearing?
Actually you should use a bearing oil.
But I WD40 and orange can contact cleaner with lube because that's what I have.
@@BeaversHobby thanks!
I wouldn't use wd40 on ball berings it damages them i would instead use a lube made specifically for small bearings like for skateboard bearings or for yo yos for example
i have a problem that my k969 can move back but cant nove forward, can some one help me please😢
First, check the trim if your transmitter has it. Is it still the transmitter with red handle? If so then you can press the TH TR buttons to see if it can turn the centre back to the mid point and try again.
Also see if when you push the trigger twice and it engage the reverse, pull from there and see if it goes in forward or any opposite direction.
If you pull the trigger and the car goes backward then the motor wiring is reverse, swap the wires and it will be OK.
If nothing helps I'm afraid the 2-in-1 unit might be faulty.
ร้านใน Banggood เป็นของ Beavers's Hobby เองใช่มั๊ยครับ
ไม่ใช่ครับ แค่เค้าส่งของมาให้ผมทดสอบ
Deng I only pay $16.50 for a pair of 2 ball diffs and I get them next day in the mail from Amazon. To see you paid $30 is nuts lol
Honestly, the aluminum diff I got was great. But now it strips the gears on the propeller shaft.
Getting one that works perfectly was really lucky. Stripping pinion was to be expected though. I modded my gear to use Tamiya pinion so it has better plastic and last a bit longer. Still got chewed though but it lasted a bit longer than original.
Beaver's Hobby I also had the plastic version of the ball diff with the only parts being metal are the balls and plates sandwiching the balls. I think they were meant for sinohobby, though not sure. But the gears on that diff was really weak. I had 4 and they all get strip on light impacts
After buying a pair of aluminum ball diffs, and two pairs of plastic ball diffs for wltoys. It cost me around 35$ equivalent for upgrades that didn’t work very well.
The common problem with both aluminum and plastic ball diff is clear to me now. The ring gear lacks surface area. While the aluminum was too sharp, hence why it chewed the pinion. The plastic being too structurally weak, the ring gear is the one chewed instead. They were not well designed as teeth were only 1mm thick.
But I came into a conclusion which diff is the best for that car both pricewise and performance wise. The original ones which had teeth that are 2mm thick. The cup joints are the weak point of the original. But that’s because I was using the k969 locked diff and it underwent a lot rotational stress combined with the super grippy tires and high speed cornering.
I used the standard non locked now. I added 15,000wt diff oil in the front and some tape to seal it. It Worked, and now it can at the least accelerate at full power with very little worry of the gears stripping.
@@Destronus That's a very detailed write up . Thanks for sharing.
today i fitted ball differentials on my k989. it's really a great up grade! the only one i couldn't do without! i almost found the sensations i have in 1/8. otherwise, i don't understand english well. do you advise greasing them on the balls? and outside ?
Grease them on the plates that the balls sit on.
Ok bro. And not out the diff ?
@@fabfullthrottle2282 Put some between the diff and the pinion gear if you see that it is not smooth.
Ok thanck you very much ! Hand a happy New year !
@@fabfullthrottle2282 My pleasure. Happy new year to you too!
what grease did you use on the ball diff?
In this video I use Tamiya ceramic grease. There's also proper ball diff grease which is better to use.
Does 989 and 969 drift the same or does one drift beter than the other
They are the same car. But if you take the out of the box state then K969 is more drift ready because it has drift tyres and locked diff as standard.
But here's my advice:
- K989 comes with open diff and grip tyres, you'll have to lock the diff (with glue or blu tack) then change the tyres.
- K969 tyres are not that good so you'll have to change the tyres anyway.
In the end just choose the body you like. The chassis is the same.
I have a question sir I have a k989 and I replaced the diff and gear box to aluminum and when I try rolling it it binds up. Does it need shims? I haven’t installed the brushless setup cause I know it will destroy the diff and gears. Please any advice will help. Thank you
Yes, you'll need to shim the diffs to get the best gear mesh. Also check if the motor pinion is too close to the spur as well.
Thank you for responding back. I don’t have a motor in it cause I know if I put one in it would destroy the diff and gears
@@Jasonkartracing My pleasure. Hope you get it working soon.
Hey I got it going it was the aluminum cases I went back with the original. I got shims but I just stuck with the original. Do you want the aluminum ones I’ll send them to you along with an aluminum kit if you want them. I have so much I won’t use.
Hey man I have the k989 and have a problem: all of a sudden it’s lost performance and makes a kind of grinding sound. Checked the diffs and they seem fine. Do I need to take out the little gears in the diff and check them too?
Check all the gears to see if there's anything blocking them. Also try and pull the motor out and run it to see if there's any strange noise coming from it. While the motor is out, check if the drivetrain is smooth without anything blocking it. If nothing else works then open up the diffs to check is the final step.
Beaver's Hobby thank you so much. I fixed it! I did as per your video and filed some plastic away in the diff parts and it’s much smoother now. Weird how it was fine for like 10 battery packs then it needed this. Does the plastic expand or something in the diff? Have ordered some new diffs anyway. I think these plastic stock ones aren’t very durable.
@@jct4111 It probably wear down and some debris were blocking the diff.
Alternatively you can use Mini-Z AWD diff with long CVD. It'll be much more durable. Here're the long CVD. bit.ly/3m1i4bd
You can find Mini-Z diff in a Kyosho or Mini-Z distributor. Or order one from Japan if there's airmail option it's not that expensive, otherwise look other places. bit.ly/2M9hSrv
Does this work like FOW?
No, this is a differential that can adjust the tension. Font one way is the other thing.
My hex socket driver is too thick for the wheel I bought :( I think you linked one for 1 dollar that fits, do you have the link or name somewhere? Would be much appreciated :)
I use something like this one bit.ly/2EmCA2R .
The head is pretty small but it's shallow. If you use wheels like P929 monster truck it won't go inside. But for standard onroad wheels it'll work.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you :)
@@imp187 My pleasure.
Hi how come the time with the treaded tyres was worse? thanks
As I mentioned in the beginning of the test, I didn't bother to clean the floor so the car slid all the way.
The actual performance is between non-treaded and foam.
Ok so the treaded tyres in the link are the fastest? I’m on a wooden floor. Just bought 3x k969 with my friends with those tyres and some rims. Decided against changing diffs for the time being but got the brushless and transmitter/receiver combo and a wing for one car for fun. We all chose different rims and paint.
@@Baddiework Best tyres I've used so far are foam tyres from X-Power. I don't know where you are but in Europe you can buy them from Mini-Z Racing Italia.
Front www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_85_92_368_371&products_id=6192
Rear
www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_85_92_368_371&products_id=13953
Ok thanks so foam tyres are better than rubber in wooden floor like this? www.wood4floors.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/E3800-1.jpg
@@Baddiework Yes, foam tyres are the best on wooden floor.
Got this diff and it doesn't seem as wide as stock. My cvd don't sit as far in drive cup. Is this ok?
As long as your CVDs don't fall off everything will be fine.
@@BeaversHobby cool thanks
@@Buddhacat83 My pleasure.
I watched your other video where you talk about the 10.5 drives. Guess I'll have to pick those up.
@@Buddhacat83 Right now there are 3 choices.
RC Aurora which is the best. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-1-Pair-Long%29.html
Atomic SZ which should be the same as what I have. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1162&products_id=14091
Eagle Racing, they work fine. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-11L-AL-Universal-Joint-Shaft-L-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253151171457
Balldiff is front one way or not??
No, it's not. Ball diff is a differential that you can adjust the tension between 2 wheels. One way is a tube with one way bearing inside and only sends power to the wheels when it spins forward.
Bro, make a tutorial on how to make a speed checker
Yes, thanks for reminding me. I completely forgot I haven't done that yet.
It's done! ruclips.net/video/Yz50YrtiqqY/видео.html
How do you unscrew a ball head screw ? pls help
The rear ball heads, right? Use 1.5mm allen key or 1.5mm hex screwdriver to remove them.
@@BeaversHobby thanks I just got it and wanted to change the wheel base but than I didn’t know how to take out the ball head but now I can thanks 😊
@@krystiancalderon3930 My pleasure.
wheres is the pinion for these diffs?
You mean centre pinions where they connect to the diff? Here it is. bit.ly/32IBbxJ
Hi! Some days ago I started watching Your channel. I've got a simple question - does a drift car need such 'fancy' upgrades? Guys in my country drive old BMWs with welded diffs and drift quite smoothly, so I would like to know - do I even need my small RC car to have 4WD? Or a RWD stiff rear axle would drift ok too? I know it would probably be harder to control, but I mean, do You think it could work? (without gyro etc. ) Great videos btw! Greetings!
For any RC to drift you only need AWD, plastic rings for tyres and locked diff (welded diff) and it'll slide. All the fancy upgrades are to make it drives more precisely and more suitable to the track driver's preference.
You can also do RWD RC drifting providing you have enough steering angle. Gyro is needed because you're not in the car and the steering won't kick back like in real car. However you can learn to drive without it, it's just very, very difficult to do so.
@@BeaversHobby thank You very much!
@@Zombarti My pleasure.
Can you lock the diff by tightening it?
Yes, you can.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the reply, what battery would you recommend for it,
Thanks for your time
@@yasxn3621 GNB 2S HV 7.6V 350mAh is great and fit the original bracket. If you remove the battery brackets and stick it down with tape then you can fit up to 450mAh.
@@BeaversHobby Sorry if I am bothering you but what parts are most prone to breaking and what dogbone shafts could i get that are the same as stock dog bone shafts
I greatly appreciate your time
@@yasxn3621 The centre shaft pinion and diff are the most usual parts to wear out quickly. Nowadays there are metal gears to prolong the life. As for dogbones, I highly recommend getting the long one like this bit.ly/3m1i4bd and you can use Mini-Z differential which are much better quality and fitting than WLtoys' diff.
Hi. Is the offset in this rims the same as in the original plastic rims?
No, original plastic rims are 1.5mm offset. These wheels will make you car 1mm wider overall.
Does your car drive in a straight line with those because the stock ones are warped and driving in a straight line is near impossible let alone trying to drift🤔
My car drives in straight line but it needed a bit of fix to work. Here's the part 1 where I started to fix this car. ruclips.net/video/TnhriaSSfSA/видео.html
If your parts are warped then you'll have to replace them.
this balldiff can't lock?! for drift...
Yes, it can. But the standard diff can be locked too so there's not much point to buy this upgrade for drift. Getting a good front one way is better for drifting.
Does the wheels work good for drift?
Who is the best compared to kyosho wheels?
@@hmwn2794 Wheels are good but offset is a bit too much. The tyres are what you change to make it drift. Combining these wheels with Kyosho tyres and it's OK. I personally prefer lower offset though.
Another good wheels are RC Aurora, GL Racing and PN Racing. They all make racing-grade wheels and they look good. As for drift tyres apart from Kyosho tyres, look for Atomic and DS Racing.
@@BeaversHobby all
these wheels fit with the M3 body?
@@reekooism No, they don't if you use them with WLtoys K989. This 2.5mm offset is far too deep for M3 and the wheels will stick out of the body a lot and you can't steer. You'll need 0mm offset wheels like these. bit.ly/30ThqD2
เห็นที่ขายๆกันบอลดิฟมีหลายแบบเลย..แบบเป็นอลูสีส้มๆ..กับแบบเหล็กทั้งตัว..แบบไหนจบกว่ากันครับ..ตัดสินใจไม่ถูกราคาแรงใช้ได้เลยฮึๆ...FC.ตามมาจาก rcthai ครับผม
เคยเห้นคนใช้ตัวสีแดงบอกดีกว่าอันอื่น ๆ ครับ
ผมยังไม่ได้ลองตัวนั้น แต่เท่าที่ลองมา แนะนำไปใช้ของยี่ห้อ Eagle Racing แล้วเปลี่ยนก้านล้อเป็นแบบยาวครับ ทนกว่า ลื่นแน่นอน ปรับแล้วหลุดยากกว่าของที่ขายตาม Aliexpress
มันจะทำท่าเหมือนเกือบหลุด แต่ไม่หลุดนะ
www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-12-AL-Ball-Diff-Set-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253618039380
www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-11L-AL-Universal-Joint-Shaft-L-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253151171457
แหวนรอง
ppm-rcracing.com/products/6.1-x-8mm-Stainless-Steel-Shim-Set-%280.1%2C-0.2%2C-0.3mm-10%7B47%7Dea%29.html
หรือถ้าไหว เอาก้านล้อของ Aurora ครับ ยังไงก็ต้องซื้อแหวนรองเพิ่มอยู่แล้วด้วย
ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-1-Pair-Long%29.html
@@BeaversHobby ช่องจะมีรีวิว GL Racing บ้างไหมครับ..รอติดตาม
@@awesomatix8885 อาจจะซื้อครับ ต้องรอเก็บตังค์ก่อน
How to steel ball size?
I guess you mean the thrust ball size? It's 2.381mm.
@@BeaversHobby yess sirr...thx you
there is no screw in it to tighten the diff I bought the same diff on banggood
Look inside the cup at side with gear. You'll see 1.5mm hex slot.
Is there any way to put pressure plates on the metal diffs from wLtoy or will that mess with the way it works
Also are the WLtoys metal diff better to use the the stock diff
@@ricardomaldonado601 No, you can't put pressure plates on it because the diff is made in the way that can't put the plates in.
To make it work better I suggest you replace the bearing with thrust bearing. That will make the diff work as intended.
Yes, the metal diff is better than the stock diff because it isn't so big that it got stuck inside the gearbox until it's difficult to turn.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the info and do you have any videos on thrust bearings also where could I get those at
@@ricardomaldonado601 I bought it from a Mini-Z racing shop. It's supposed to be a spare part for AMZ. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=960
Basically it's just a thrust bearing with 2mm inner diameter.
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much
where is stage 6?
Here it is. ruclips.net/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/видео.html
Installing Mini-Z body for better aero.
บอดี้ซื้อที่ไหนครับ
ของ mini-q น่ะครับ เมื่อก่อนมีขายใน hobbyking.com เดี๋ยวนี้หาไม่เจอแล้ว
the original is k989 rally?
I wouldn't call it rally because ride height is too low to do any rallying. It's more suitable to use as a touring car or or driving around on paved road.
Beaver's Hobby I mean the original wltoys model, which is the a989 that's a 4wd car from rally?
@@Surfeiro23 Yes, they call it "rally" car and the body is from Ford Fiesta rally car.
บอลดิฟ มันเป็นเหล็กทั้งลูกเลยใช้ไหมคับ
อันสีดำน้ะคับ
@@Jonathan-ik7ht ใช่ครับ ถ้าซื้อกับ banggood ร้านอื่นต้องลองถามดูนะครับเพราะมันมีหลายแบบ
ขอสอบถามหน่อยคับ พอดีสั่งซื้อมาแล้วเล่นได้อาทิตย์กว่า ก้อเล่นไม่ได้ กดแล้วมอเตอร์ไม่หมุนแต่มีไฟคับ
ลองเช็คดูว่าล้อฝืดหรือมีอะไรเข้าไปติดหรือเปล่าครับ ลองต่อไฟตรงจากถ่าน AA สักก้อน 2 ก้อนเข้ามอเตอร์ดูว่าหมุนไหม อีกอย่างก็ยังเลี้ยวได้ไหม ถ้าเลี้ยวได้ ไม่ฝืด มอเตอร์ใช้ได้ แต่ใส่รวมกันแล้วไม่ยอมวิ่ง บอร์ดพังครับ
@@BeaversHobby บอร์ดคือตัวกล่องสีดำที่เสียบแบตและมอเตอร์ใช่มั้ยคับ ขอไอดีหน่อยคับ
@@วทัญญูรุ่งเรือง-ศ7ฑ ใช่ครับ
ตอนนี้ตัวของ 1/28 หาไม่เจอ ตัวของ 1/24 จะเลี้ยวได้น้อยกว่า แต่ ESC ดีกว่าหน่อย bit.ly/2Mih6ut
@@วทัญญูรุ่งเรือง-ศ7ฑ เจอแล้ว
www.aliexpress.com/item/32890073219.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.320.281237deYBdUTY&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_2_10065_10068_319_10059_10884_317_10887_10696_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_537_10302_536%2Csearchweb201603_52%2CppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=d5278dbf-d5c1-468d-a9f8-7265787dcd27-42&algo_pvid=d5278dbf-d5c1-468d-a9f8-7265787dcd27&transAbTest=ae803_5
Good
ชุดรีโมทเดิมสามารถใส่สปีดแยกได้ไหมครับ
ต้องหารีซีฟของมันครับ เหมือนเคยเห็นมีขาย แต่เอาจริง ๆ ไม่แนะนำเพราะรีโมทเดิมมันปรับ reverse ไม่ได้
Wow you spent 200 bucks on a 30 buck car lol. Dont think mamy going to do that aha.
Most of the spending was on the radio. I'm making a new budget guide soon because cheaper and better electronics have came out.
Just buy a gla at this point..
Look at the total cost... yes, I should have done that.
So this is a money pit xD
It's a money abyss at this point. :D
True but this thing can be tuned to the moon and thats what makes it fun xD. I'm planning to buy this car after seeing your video. My question is does the pinion wears out quickly when using this ball diff? Have you tried the one with blue or red?
@@cityofplant Yes, these ball diffs chew the pinions to pieces not long after I published this video. The blue or the red ones are no different. Try to find a ball diff that has plastic gear but metal drive cups if you could.
ถ้าเล่นทัวริ่นบอลดริฟเดิมๆเล่นดีปะครับ
ของเดิมเป็นเกียร์ดิฟ หรือดิฟเฟืองครับ ใช้เล่นทัวริ่งได้นะครับ แค่มันปรับความตึงไม่ได้ ต้องแกะออกมาใส่จารบีเหนียวสำหรับดิฟเฟืองถ้าอยากปรับแต่ง แต่ทำงานได้ เล่นได้เหมือนบอลดิฟครับ
ผมผึงได้รถมือสองมาเดียวเย็นๆๆสงให้ดูนะครับส่าทำไรมัง