Here are the time stamps. There are a lot so you can watch only what you need. Intro 00:00 Previously on WLtoys project 00:36 Electronics parts 01:40 Upgrades 05:05 Disassembling 08:33 Locking differential 12:01 Motor installation 12:34 Difference between front and rear pinion gear 13:11 Motor installation (cont.) 14:15 Replacing the servo 15:13 Adjustable front toe 17:18 Installing front one way 23:27 Installing drift tyres & wheels 25:02 Suspension setup 26:08 Assembling the spur gear 27:03 Installing motor pinion 27:36 Assembling rear gear box 29:58 Electronics installation 34:22 Plugging in brushless motor 35:28 Calibrating the ESC 36:00 Program ESC without card 37:08 Installing receiver 40:10 Steering setup 42:53 Test drive 45:24 Conclusion 46:25
@@krisstoney6892 Wheels (need 2 sets) bit.ly/30ThqD2 Tyres (1 set) bit.ly/2I3a74k Body bit.ly/39oQba3 It's all in the description but I understand it's quite overwhelming to scroll through it.
I did mini z's back in the day, Just bought a mini awd on a whim and now I'm back! But now because of his fixes and tips, I have 2 wltoys on the way with mods coming!!
Good thing Mr Beaver is here, I purchased the dasmikro v3 and firstly when I switched it on, only reverse was working. After a series of panic, watched this video again n now it's running smoothly thank u
I have to thank You, i just bought 3 of them 2nd hand and dismantled them into every single piece, and Your video's/advices where rly helpful. Have a good day :)
I received my K989 and I am waiting on the upgrades. I am working on a track but I may end up getting the rcp wide L. Thanks Beaver, you make excellent rc videos. 😁
Ребята да вы вдохновляете повторить данный подвиг. Может и на моём канале получится снять видео по переборке машинных только в России. У нас эти мало кто занимается!
Great video and very good in detail explanation. The reason why the battery cables are separate is for security, if they happened to make contact it would probably start a fire.
Have been wanting to brushless swap mine for a while now after 1.5 years of owning the k969 stock finally decided to order everything to to the swap and should be here next week. My first rc motor swap from brushed to brushless
Good job! lots of information clearly listed and explained perfectly. I was gonna build a brushless xmod and now I'll be getting the P929 and use the ESC and motor you recommended slowly upgrading using this video as a guide 👍
@@BeaversHobby I'm currently taking it apart as we speak, watching your old videos on correcting the drivetrain and suspension. Thank you! These are so helpful
Appreciate that you show the measurement of the ball diameter at 8:18 . I am replacing as my parts of my 230 sized helicopter with after-market wltoys car parts because car parts are much stronger. I have ordered a few wrong parts because the product pages don't say the dimensions of their parts. You are the only RC youtuber that spells out those information.
Thanks for the kind words. Helicopter is a great source for linkages. Trex250 ball heads and caps also work. The ball heads have smaller screw (probably M1.4, can't remember for sure) but with a bit of modding they'll work.
I tried something today I wouldn’t recommend I got an 180 mah 3s lipo and a brushed esc and put it in the k989 and it was a rocket. It didn’t break or fry anything just got the motor super hot. It was fun though
The gear pitch is mod 0.5. It's probably one of the easiest to find because you can get it from "plastic gear for small robot" bag from aliexpress or ebay. It's also the same pitch as Tamiya Mini 4WD and Mini-Z AWD pinion.
@Beaver's Hobby. Hope you are having a good day. I am a huge fan of your videos, reviews, tutorials and builds. I want to express how amazed I am by your skills as an RC Driver, Builder and your knowledge is as impressive as your technical skills. I wish you more views and more success in your channel and as well as outside of youtube.
Man this video was awesome not only did you do an amazing job but you showed us step by step how two do everything that needs two be done now I what two do one I'd like two do evo 8 or 9 my be even a 10 but definitely a Mitsubishi thanks great video man 👍👍👍✌
Thank you for the video, I will save it but please do a similar video for the new wltoys 284131 truck!!! I bought one and would like a guide for doing upgrades properly. Thank you again!
It's the exact same car so if you want to do a drift mod then this video is the one you need. But if you are interested in making it a touring racing car then I plan to do it using the 284131 but not upgrading the electronics because it is already good.
hello, do you have the precise reference of the esc, and where can I buy it? I use an absima cr6p radio and r6fs receiver. Is it ok for use with this brushless motor and esc? thank you so much for your videos! and your advice.
The one I use in this video is not available anymore since they updated it. Here it is. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003527519554.html You can use any standard format (3 pin) transmitter & receiver with it so your Absima CR6P will do fine. It's basically a re-branded Flysky GT5 so the protocol is AFHDS 2A. If you want a small receiver, take a look at FS2A. The size is about fingertip. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000136437334.html
Unfortunately, the firmware on Surpass Rocket ESC can't be modified. I haven't followed the drone side of the hobby so I don't know if it even has forward-brake-reverse function that will allow it to work with cars, last I check it doesn't.
The original battery is already good for brushless. If you want an upgrade or more batteries then take a look at GNB. They pack a lot of punch. bit.ly/3ov4DDz
I switched back to the stock k989 esc and running a 3s lipo and it’s running great. I thought it would have fried it but it’s taking it like a champ. I also ran the stock 2s lipo with a 1s wired into it and she rips. I would have never thought it would take it but I was wrong. The motor gets a little hot and the esc is cool I do have the cover off the esc. I would have to say it picked up another 8mph with the 3s
As far as the heat goes, if you take a brake and check the temperature regularly it should be OK. This ESC is weird to say the least. Some even burn at 2S from running normally, not pushing it or anything.
It’s still going strong on 3s. I ordered a couple brushed 85000 rpm motors the ones that come painted brite colors and I wasn’t expecting it to run on the stock esc so I used another on another esc and it ran for about a min and quit I put the other brite painted motor and again one min. The esc is fine but I can’t figure out the motor. I even wired in a resistor like the stock motor but nothing. I wasn’t trying on 3s only a 2s. Is there a trick to those motors. Got them off eBay and for that min it ran it was quick. Any ideas. Thanks
@@Jasonkartracing Do these motors have carbon brushes? You can open them up to check, there'll be a black block on each side of the terminal that touch the armature. If they have that and it still stops after a minute then it's either a cutoff from the ESC (ESC can't handle it so it shuts off for safety) or the motor really can't take more than 5V.
@@Jasonkartracing Yes, you can replace the terminals and brushes then keep using it but I'm afraid it'll burn again because the magnets and winding aren't suitable for this voltage.
You can use the gears that came with the car. 15 and 17T with 5500KV motor. 16T also works well. The gear is mod 0.5 with 2mm hole. For more spare you can search for "plastic gears mod 0.5" or "plastic gears for small robots". A big kit like this will have mod 0.5 pitch and many T to try. www.banggood.com/custlink/mvDtaOnJFj Mini-Z AWD motor pinions are also another option.
Hi man I got one of these and have you to thank for your videos as they helped me out and get this thing rolling man thanks to you pal so thank you for you videos and mods total respect pal thanks a million bud I watched all of these on this car two get it how it is many thanks MJs RCs 👍👍👍 🤘😎👍
Hi Beaver, very nice detailed build as always, you are a true inspiration. Can you please advise what AWG wire and bullet connector (size) cable is used here for the rocket v2 motor which connects to the Daskmikro brushless ESC.
20 or 22AWG. I used to use 20. It was a bit thick but fit well on the motor. GL Racing and all others come with 22AWG and work well without heating up so get 22AWG if you can, otherwise 20 will do. The plug size is 2mm banana.
Hi Beaver, Thank you for this video. Were you satisfied with the 15 tooth motor pinion in this setup? You were looking for the 14 tooth pinion. What is the pitch of that motor pinion please? Thank you
Yes, I'm satisfy with 15T for drifting. The gear pitch is mod0.5. It's very common for small toy cars and robots so you can find the gears pretty easily on ebay or aliexpress.
Yes, this build is still the same for 284131. However the ESC has changed a bit. The DasMikro that I use is not available anymore. You can use DasMikro V3 or PN Racing V2 instead depending on which one you can get the cheapest.
my leopard hobby motor and ESC combo for 1/28 has just arrived but the motor shaft doesn't seem to have a groove on it. Does the pinion gear just slide onto the shaft? this is weird to me that the shaft does not have a groove
@@forthememes1311 If you have a gear puller it'd help a lot. If not, take it out of the car then heat it up with a hairdryer or something. Be careful not to melt the motor mount though.
ANY SUGGESTIONS for some tires that offer more grip? Everyone seems to be focusing on drifting while many still care about real racing. Any hope I would appreciate it.
The tyre compound depends mainly on the surface you are driving on. For RCP and what I use for upside down EVA garage mat, you can't go wrong with Kyosho Mini-Z radial tyres. The lower the number the higher the grip. I use 30 degree for both front and rear and it grips really well. If you only race on RCP another option is Marka Racing. You can go as low as 20 degree but it might incur some grip rolls. So if you like the grip for 20 degree but it rolls in corners you can change the front to a less grippy one like 30. If you play on wooden floor or regular home floor then foam tyres are great. I have some GQ tyres for driving around. The setup is front soft, rear super soft. Not that the car rolls over but it's for the car to not spin out that easily.
How did you get the brass gear off of the motor shaft??? The motor wont come away from the mount without removing it first. I didn't see you address this in the video. GREAT video by the way!
This was the older version with plastic gear. The new version with brass gear... that one is almost impossible to remove. It's very difficult to get a gear puller in so I ended up not removing it and keep using the old motor. Another way is to try and heat up only the shaft and push the gear out with a screwdriver. However this way is tricky and you might end up melting the motor mount instead.
@BeaversHobby yes sir indeed. I ended up buying the motor/shaft/mount assembly and cut the motor off with a cut-off wheel. It was a little messy, but it worked. Only $13 for the assembly too.
I have problem with original transmitter so i must to change it. Problem is selecting new ESC for brushed motor. Will hobbywing quicrun 1060 fit correctly with original motor? I know IT is oversized, but every small ESC looks same and i want to buy crap.
Quicrun 1060 won't fit but Quicrun 1625 will. You'll need to cut down the wires to make it smaller and change the plug to JST-XH 2 pin for the motor. Another good one is DumboRC 10A. It doesn't have cut-off but it has an alarm port so you can install 5v buzzer and it'll beep when the battery is low. Here's an old video but you'll see how 1625 fits on the car. ruclips.net/video/ryH56xxftOc/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby is radiolink rc6gs good? I know that rc4gs can be enought, but rc6gs i can buy on aliexpress with shipping from my country. When i buy rc4gs IT is high probability to pay VAT so end cost can be the same.
Thanks for the vid. Especially surprised about esc difference! I was struggling to reduce cogging of surpass rocket combo and now it's the time to change my esc to dasmikro one too. Btw, is GLA 10.5mm CVD shorter than Atomic one? For mine, GLA dogbones popped off from drive cup unless 0.9~1.3mm spacer added...
Hey @Beaver's Hobby How does the DASMIKRO esc compares to gl racing esc v1.2 ? Does the DASMIKRO esc performs just as well?Thinking of buying an esc soon.
They are almost the same. Dasmikro has a bit higher starting speed but less to no cogging. GL has softer start and lower speed but might cog with some motors. Beyond that part, they are the same. Well, they are both Hobbywing programmed after all.
Hello, i have troubles with this FOW Unit on my k969. Situation: driving in a straight line then letting of the Throttle the car spins out immediatly. Do you have a solution for this? Already checked if the wheels are not tightened to the same amount but that did not help.
That is normal for one way especially if you were going fast then let go of the throttle. (Skip to 4.36 of this video to see the explanation ruclips.net/video/rTveWKmr8xY/видео.html ) You can only lessen the effect by making sure the steering is centered, lube the one way bearings inside so they spin forward with the same friction and if you have a bit of toe out that will also help.
Hi Beaver i bought a 0808 4100kv brushless motor and i wanna know can recomend a good ESC that i could yous for my K969 project would help me out a lot thx .
Take a look at DasMikro V3 or PN Racing V2 for a decent budget setup. There's also one from aliexpress shop BYRC too, try and find one that looks like PN Racing V2 and you will get the same at a (presumably) lower price.
Hey Beaver, I tried the calibration with that esc and a surpass hobby motor. Unfortunately it just stuttered and the esc and motor started getting really hot. Can you help me?
It depends if you want drift or touring/grip. For drift, yes, get the same front one way and rear solid axle (or just front one way) that I have and you'll get a good drift car. For touring/grip, take a look at Mini-Z differential for gear diff or ball differentials from Mini-Q (OK quality), Atomic AMZ (good quality with a bit of chance to slip), GL Racing GLA (great quality).
This car is wide enough as it is for 1/28 and will not really benefit anything if it gets any wider. If the car gets wider the dog bone part of the swing shaft/CVD won't reach the differential and it will drop off the car causing it to loose drive or worse, snap the CVD. And you will need to re-work all the linkages otherwise the toe angle will be too extreme to drive (here's the video about metal upgrade ruclips.net/video/cKw-T2f-Qms/видео.html ) Also it will be harder to find a body to fit. Besides, the quality of the metal upgrade is very random. Mostly you will get a kit that will not work.
If I purchase the fow with the solid axle, how do I install it? Can I just replace the rear diff with it? And what are the turnbuckles you mentioned in the description? I can't find a link for them. Really good videos btw
@@kaufempfehlung6803 Yes, you can install front one way and rear solid axle along with long CVD (25 or 27mm). The turnbuckles come and go pretty quickly so search for Mini-Q and Trex250 parts should come up with something some day. As for the body, yes it fits without any modification but you'll have to replace the wheels as well to 0mm offset narrow. You can use this Camaro ZL1 or Dodge Hellcat body.
Hello beaver i was wondering what screwdriver and tools do you use for the car i have a k969 and im planning on upgrading it but i dont know what screwdriver and tools to use for it. Also im very new to this rc stuff do you know any recommended upgrades i should do?
You'll need Philips cross screwdriver no.1, hex screwdriver or Allen key 1.5mm and nut driver or cross wrench with 4mm slot. You can use a generic cross wrench for RC car on eBay that goes for 1-3 USD. You can also get a full set of screwdriver and nut driver for computer and mobile phone from an electronic or computer shop. The quality isn't as good as proper RC equipment but it will get you going for much cheaper and it's easier to find.
@@BeaversHobby thanks 👍 I'm currently upgrading to full metal and your videos have helped a lot ,it's such a shame that most the metal parts don't fit without modification ,but gives me something to do lol
Great video. I noticed the wheels connected to the front one way differential don't spin when you let off the trigger. I thought they should spin freely. Won't the one way diff behave more like a locked diff if the wheels are too tight and don't spin freely?
The oil is still a bit sticky right now. If you look when I reversed, the front wheels did't move. That's probably a better measurement whether it works or not.
@@BeaversHobby Hi Beaver, I think my front one-way is also sticky -- perhaps this is why if I let off the the throttle at full speed (in a straight line) the car turns sharply to the right? Even with the above, the front-one way has mad a considerable difference improving the sharpness of corners I can take. Have you done or could recommend a video on Fluids and lubricants, etc? I'd love a crash course on what should be used for cleaning/lubing bearings, diff grease/types to use, what works good on shocks, etc.
Theoretically it will consume less power but realistically you won't see much difference. Upgrade the battery to a bigger capacity is the best way to get more runtime.
Great video as always, btw i've seen many videos about 1/28 rc car. Many people convert awd wltoys to rwd. Why rwd drift car more popular than awd? Is it easier to drive?
RWD is more difficult to drive but it's more realistic and more satisfying to drive. I've also made a series documenting my RWD conversion. ruclips.net/p/PLS79G3YjA2fDY_ESGp0wk6Wom8Zrt0u6E
Hi, congratulations for the videos. I wanted to ask where can I buy pinion of different sizes for this engine? Do you have a link or an acronym so I can search?
The pinion gear is mod 0.5 pitch with 2mm diameter hole which is pretty common for small toys, cars and robots. You can use Mini-Z AWD pinion gear set part number MD006B. banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MD006B Apart from searching by gear pitch you can also use "plastic gears for small robot" on aliexpress or ebay to get a gear kit that contains some gears you can use.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks. Since I replaced the original drive shaft with a metal one, isn't the plastic sprocket likely to be damaged quickly ? are metal sprockets for that engine ?
There's Evo9 from Mini-Q which is a bit wide but it's 94mm wheelbase so you'll have to cut the wheel arches to make it 98mm and make a new bodykit for it.
Hi remember me I made a little fan art on my channel as a thank you for helping me with answering my questions about k969 build Please note I made that for fun and not to make fun of anything or anyone
Awesome video, I'm about to make this conversion but I can't decide between the Furitek or the DasMikro ESC. You say in your Furitek vid that it's the best you've ever used, but is it really worth the 40 extra dollars?
It depends on what you want. Furitek is the best and worth every penny if you really use all the features like realtime setup (no restart the ESC, just change the value and it uses that setting instantly), throttle curve, fine tuning the the control and also has ultra fast response. Basically it's racing-grade stuff that no many casual drivers will use. If you just want something that works well and power any 1410/1625 motor without hiccups, DasMikro is all you need.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the detailed response, I can't imagine myself using all those features since I'm still super new to rc drifting, but I still want it ha.
thanks for the links - going to try a few of these upgrades on my son's 989. by the time it's fully hopped up though its getting close to the price of a drz, bmrx, etc. in your opinion, what's the #1 best performing mini drift platform today?
I'd say GLD has the best overall performance and design. It's easy to tune and very well thought-out. It'll need some upgrades like front aluminium bulkhead, aluminium knuckles and shock towers but after that it's a great car. BMR-X drives great but changing motor and tuning is tricky. DRZ V2 is supposedly good. I got the V1 and it's really good so I haven't bought V2 yet. You got a lot out of the box like adjustable wheelbase and aluminium front knuckles but it can't adjust between low and high motor mounting position. Also don't upgrade the WLtoys K989 chassis with aluminium parts or carbon chassis. Keep it stock and only do the electronics, diffs, wheels & tyres. Basically anything that you can move to a better chassis. This will look expensive because radio, ESC and motor combined are way more expensive than the car itself but you'll have to buy them with any car anyway.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the detailed response! I’ve also got a drz v1 but some of the aftermarket or replacement parts have been hard to find at times. I think I’ll pick up a GLD next thanks again🙏
Always followed your stuff, even before I finally got my k989. When you plan to switch between drift and touring car, are you going to change the diffs too? Or just the tires?
@@Digitness K969 is the same car with different body (Porsche), locked diff instead of open diff and drift tyres (not that good but they'll work). I mainly go with K989 because to me the body looks better, open diff can be locked but locked can't be opened and I'll get better tyres anyway. All in all it makes no difference what car it is if you end up doing what's in this video. Just choose the body you like.
I ordered all of the same parts as in your video. I hope to get to Bind all with the Radiolink remote RC4GS. I already have the Hobbywing programming card. Thank you very much for your tutorial I will try to do exactly like you. Can you tell me if it is possible to add LEDs to the Radiolink R4FGM mini receiver?
You meant controlling led via radio? You'll need a light controller for that. Otherwise if you just want a simple light that stays on once you turn the car on then you just need some LEDs with resistors like in this video. ruclips.net/video/_g4uwUtobPk/видео.html Normally the ESC will output 5V to the receiver so you can calculate the resistor you need from that.
@@BeaversHobby No, I just want a simple light that stays on. This is for a Mercedes AMG GT3 body. I was thinking of using a system that I hook up to the receiver. Thanks for your link. I will already wait to receive all the parts with the brushless motor.
@@BeaversHobby I bought and assembled the Wltoys K989 like in your video. I have a problem. When I start to accelerate, and barely 20s or more, the car shuts off as if there was no battery left. What must be configured on the ESC to remove the lipo cut-off safety?
@@juMorand Turn the menu 3 to value = 1. It should be off as default so if it shuts off then I'm afraid it's something else. The overheat protection is off as default too so I don't know what could possibly go wrong there.
Hi i have a ISDT Q6 Pro BattGo 300W 14A Pocket Lipo Battery Balance Charger but it cant charge the Lipo that came supplied via the JST plug, does it need to be charged via the the supplied usb charged and the balance plug? PS. Love this Vid, cost me a small fortune but love it all the same.
@@BeaversHobby Sorry should have been more clear, i have like a 7 in one multi connector cable that goes to chargers XT-60, so i plug balance lead in to chargers balance port and JST to JST RCY on multi connector. but it wont charge, discharge or storage charge. just gives error. SORTED: I Hope :) i run-in the car on stand for a short while, put a cell checker on it and it was way out. cell 1=3.86 cell 2=3.54 charged it then with the supplied usb charger that took 10 minutes and the light went off. so tried my charger again and put it in storage charge and it worked charged and discharged cells matched. will just keep an eye on it, hope its ok.
@@PrInCeUKER Sounds like there's a break in the circuit. Check the balance plug placement too because it's all in the same slot but I don't know which side is the correct one. Also some multi connector or board isn't that good so the problem can come from there too. Maybe you can try and make an adapter? Meanwhile you'll have to make do with the supplied charger. It won't burn your house down or anything so don't worry.
It's the standard non-sensored ESC, right? You can actually use the same method in this video (holding and clicking the button). The menu table is different so here you go. imgur.com/3voCnHc You can also use a Hobbywing programming card like this bit.ly/36m1qw8 but with the menu table in the link above.
LB GTR35 sort of fits with narrow wheels 0mm offset on both front and rear. The shock tower fits perfectly without modifications but you'll have to cut the front splitter and shave the front wheel arches otherwise it won't be able to turn
The 10.5mm shaft you use costs 90$ to ship to the U.S lol. Sucks to live here. do you know any other sites or brands that sell 10.5mm universal shafts? I cannot drive my car without the long ones :(
Atomic, GL also have distributors in the US. This one for example. www.kenonhobby.com/HRC-GLD-Alum-7075-Universal-Shaft-105mm_p_46610.html Kenon is the biggest store in terms of Mini-Z. There's also www.wolframrc.com/ , etc.
Bearing: inner diameter x outer diameter x width Motor mount bearing: 2x5x2.5, put the bearing on first then put the shaft through it. Gearbox bearing: 3x7x2, there are 2 of this and they go on the gear. Put them on before putting the gear on the shaft.
epic iam getting back into rcing i still have my k989 ill look for a motor i have a rx7 body but i think that wont fit i also have a ae86 i whis i can make that fit i would have to build a new chassi for that epic video !
Would the low volt cutoff on the esc have any effect on the R6FG receiver gyro? my Gyro stopped working after I set the same volt cutoff as you did. Also when i brake and go into reverse, the car wont go into forward again. looks like my esc and receiver are faulty 😥
No, the cutoff won't effect the gyro. It's a different part entirely. Check your transmitter setting and gyro setting on the receiver. Maybe you can re-calibrate the ESC and see if that helps with the direction not changing. It sounds like your throttle is reversed for some reason so it normally from forward-brake-reverse it goes in the opposite direction so reverse and break instead. You can reset the ESC programming by holding the button for a few seconds while it's on.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the advice, I thought the throttle might have been reversed as well but after I brake and then reverse, the green led stays on on the ESC and it wont do anything, it was working previously as well so i think its probably damaged in some way.
Hi Mr B, I dont know why my motor is clogging, I'm using dasmikro but when I press full throttle it is clogging, when I plus the th trim to full there is no clog but I cant reverse, please help thank you
You'll have to calibrate the ESC before use. Hold the button then turn it on, press once to register mid point, hold the throttle and press to register full throttle then push the throttle and press the button to register full reverse. Also check the soldering and gear mesh. Those can make the motor cog as well.
@@BeaversHobby Hi Mr B, I managed to find the problem, it's rather embarrassing but to share, I actually tightened the motor mounting screw too tight so it gets stuck when rotating in certain directions so now it is fine, thank you
Great setup, I got cogging issue on Surpass 1410 3500kv combo at startup. Any suggestion for how to solve it? my car is GLA V2.1. I was running 2S 400mah lipo. thank you.
Which ESC do you have? It's usually from the ESC is there's cogging. You can program it and set the timing to 0 to help with cogging. The next best thing to do is checking the drivetrain so it's smooth and you can roll the car without the motor on.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the reply. My DasMikro still on the way, but just want to see if the cogging issue can be solved by some way because I do have 2 Surpass 1410 ESCs with program card. I should watch your video before purchase.
Hi Beaver, I use the same motor and esc as those in your video. But I have a problem here. I have set the voltage cut off to position 6 the same as you've done in the video. At first, the esc and motor works normaly. But after a while, the esc show strange behaviour. It repeatedly emit 2 green light (or 2 beep) and the motor won't rotate even if I pull the throttle (but the servo works normgaly). The motor will work again (and there will no 2 continous beep) if I set the cut off to position 1. Any other cut off position (2-6) will cause error to the esc and motor. Can you help me to solve my problem? Can you guess what the cause of my problem? Is it the defective esc, motor, or battery? FYI, I have measured the battery voltage after charging. The voltage is about 8.4v (instead of 7.4v as written on the battery body). Is that normal? Note : I use stock battery that shipped with the RC.
@@noviantobayuprabowo8094 It looks like you got cut-off when it suddenly stopped. However the LED should be blinking red but I could be wrong. Sounds to me like the voltage drops too fast and triggers the cut-off. The position 1 of cut-off it turning it off. There's no negative effect to the power delivery but it will not stop the car if the battery goes lower than minimum safe voltage (2.7V per cell) so if you keep monitoring the battery voltage, you can turn it off. The 8.4V is fully charged voltage of 2S lipo so there's no need to worry. The original battery is decent. But if you have another 2S to try then do it first. Since the ESC still (sort of) working I would assume it's stull function properly.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for your quick reply my friend :) Anyway, I have another lipo battery to try. I have measured their voltage and they are above 7 volt but they give the same esc error. Actualy, the esc work fine for a short time after instalation/assembly (even if I set the cut off mode to 6). But after a while it began to error.
@@noviantobayuprabowo8094 That's really strange. But it can go faulty so there's that too. If you are certain all the wirings are correct then there's a problem with the ESC. By the way you can also try reversing the channel 2 and calibrate it again but I don't think it'd make much difference.
Here are the time stamps. There are a lot so you can watch only what you need.
Intro 00:00
Previously on WLtoys project 00:36
Electronics parts 01:40
Upgrades 05:05
Disassembling 08:33
Locking differential 12:01
Motor installation 12:34
Difference between front and rear pinion gear 13:11
Motor installation (cont.) 14:15
Replacing the servo 15:13
Adjustable front toe 17:18
Installing front one way 23:27
Installing drift tyres & wheels 25:02
Suspension setup 26:08
Assembling the spur gear 27:03
Installing motor pinion 27:36
Assembling rear gear box 29:58
Electronics installation 34:22
Plugging in brushless motor 35:28
Calibrating the ESC 36:00
Program ESC without card 37:08
Installing receiver 40:10
Steering setup 42:53
Test drive 45:24
Conclusion 46:25
Thank you for this series !!!
Really helped me get my k969 the way I want it
Hey bud can you link me to the k989 1/28 scale rc wheels and tyres you have on in video
@@krisstoney6892 Wheels (need 2 sets) bit.ly/30ThqD2
Tyres (1 set) bit.ly/2I3a74k
Body bit.ly/39oQba3
It's all in the description but I understand it's quite overwhelming to scroll through it.
@@TubeMRHappy 이가
One day youtube recommended a Beaver video and now I have 6 micro cars.
I feel that all to well. LOL
Thats how it goes...lol
I am one down and looking at more plus a track. 😄
@@jmocrawls I've added one more since I'd dropped that comment. Yeah..
I did mini z's back in the day, Just bought a mini awd on a whim and now I'm back! But now because of his fixes and tips, I have 2 wltoys on the way with mods coming!!
Your attention to detail alongside your extensive knowledge to allow for comparison to previous models or there brands is unique. Thank you.
Good thing Mr Beaver is here, I purchased the dasmikro v3 and firstly when I switched it on, only reverse was working. After a series of panic, watched this video again n now it's running smoothly thank u
I have to thank You, i just bought 3 of them 2nd hand and dismantled them into every single piece, and Your video's/advices where rly helpful. Have a good day :)
I received my K989 and I am waiting on the upgrades. I am working on a track but I may end up getting the rcp wide L. Thanks Beaver, you make excellent rc videos. 😁
Ребята да вы вдохновляете повторить данный подвиг. Может и на моём канале получится снять видео по переборке машинных только в России. У нас эти мало кто занимается!
I've come back to this so many times now for the ESC calibration. Thanks for these tutorials, the soldering video too 👍
Great video and very good in detail explanation. The reason why the battery cables are separate is for security, if they happened to make contact it would probably start a fire.
Great channel because of your videos I have gotten back in to micro rcs and went from 0-4 in a few weeks now getting my kids into it!
Have been wanting to brushless swap mine for a while now after 1.5 years of owning the k969 stock finally decided to order everything to to the swap and should be here next week. My first rc motor swap from brushed to brushless
I started watching with your original k989 build. Love your videos man!
Good job! lots of information clearly listed and explained perfectly. I was gonna build a brushless xmod and now I'll be getting the P929 and use the ESC and motor you recommended slowly upgrading using this video as a guide 👍
Had 5 molded xmods bit now upgrading to the wltoys cars, better base car!
My k989 arrived yesterday. Was persuaded by your videos!
It's a really nice car. Best of luck and have fun!
@@BeaversHobby I'm currently taking it apart as we speak, watching your old videos on correcting the drivetrain and suspension. Thank you! These are so helpful
the amount of info on this is amazing thank you so much everything you mentioned is still available on aliexpress
Appreciate that you show the measurement of the ball diameter at 8:18 . I am replacing as my parts of my 230 sized helicopter with after-market wltoys car parts because car parts are much stronger. I have ordered a few wrong parts because the product pages don't say the dimensions of their parts. You are the only RC youtuber that spells out those information.
Thanks for the kind words. Helicopter is a great source for linkages.
Trex250 ball heads and caps also work. The ball heads have smaller screw (probably M1.4, can't remember for sure) but with a bit of modding they'll work.
Beaver is my favorite hobby channel 😍
I would have had to toss out my K989, thanks to all your upgrades I've turned it from junk to a Mini Z competitor! thank you Beaver!
Or just get the newer K989-284131 which has all but 2 of these upgrades right @Beaver’s Hobby ?
I tried something today I wouldn’t recommend I got an 180 mah 3s lipo and a brushed esc and put it in the k989 and it was a rocket. It didn’t break or fry anything just got the motor super hot. It was fun though
@BeaversHobby what pitch motor pinion are you using for the brushless motor? Doing the same set up but don’t have the correct pitch pinion
The gear pitch is mod 0.5.
It's probably one of the easiest to find because you can get it from "plastic gear for small robot" bag from aliexpress or ebay. It's also the same pitch as Tamiya Mini 4WD and Mini-Z AWD pinion.
@Beaver's Hobby.
Hope you are having a good day.
I am a huge fan of your videos, reviews, tutorials and builds.
I want to express how amazed I am by your skills as an RC Driver, Builder and your knowledge is as impressive as your technical skills.
I wish you more views and more success in your channel and as well as outside of youtube.
Wltoy1/28ตัวนี้เอาไปทำดริฟ เล่นสนึกกว่าทำทัวริงอีก ทัวริงเฟืองกับบอลดริฟชอบรูดผมนิทิ้งไป2คันละ เอามาทำดริฟAWDเล่นสนุกมากครับ
Best Chanel for 1/28
Only just found your channel. You are the RC mod king.
Man this video was awesome not only did you do an amazing job but you showed us step by step how two do everything that needs two be done now I what two do one I'd like two do evo 8 or 9 my be even a 10 but definitely a Mitsubishi thanks great video man 👍👍👍✌
Thank you for the video, I will save it but please do a similar video for the new wltoys 284131 truck!!! I bought one and would like a guide for doing upgrades properly. Thank you again!
It's the exact same car so if you want to do a drift mod then this video is the one you need. But if you are interested in making it a touring racing car then I plan to do it using the 284131 but not upgrading the electronics because it is already good.
hello,
do you have the precise reference of the esc, and where can I buy it?
I use an absima cr6p radio and r6fs receiver. Is it ok for use with this brushless motor and esc? thank you so much for your videos! and your advice.
The one I use in this video is not available anymore since they updated it. Here it is. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003527519554.html
You can use any standard format (3 pin) transmitter & receiver with it so your Absima CR6P will do fine. It's basically a re-branded Flysky GT5 so the protocol is AFHDS 2A. If you want a small receiver, take a look at FS2A. The size is about fingertip. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000136437334.html
Thanks to your vids I purchased the k989 and love it already did the servo and 3D printed the hoonicorn mustang absolutely love it!!.
Got a link to the body?
For your ESC, experimenting with BLHeli firmware might solve your cogging and initial acceleration concerns.
Unfortunately, the firmware on Surpass Rocket ESC can't be modified.
I haven't followed the drone side of the hobby so I don't know if it even has forward-brake-reverse function that will allow it to work with cars, last I check it doesn't.
I am convinced... I love you work and video as well
do you recommend any battery upgrades or is the stock WLtoys battery okay for brushless?
The original battery is already good for brushless. If you want an upgrade or more batteries then take a look at GNB. They pack a lot of punch. bit.ly/3ov4DDz
Now this is what I am searching for a while. Thank you Beaver for sharing all this with us. Awesome build! 😸😸
Thanks! I have 2 different wltoys on the way and mod parts!
I switched back to the stock k989 esc and running a 3s lipo and it’s running great. I thought it would have fried it but it’s taking it like a champ. I also ran the stock 2s lipo with a 1s wired into it and she rips. I would have never thought it would take it but I was wrong. The motor gets a little hot and the esc is cool I do have the cover off the esc. I would have to say it picked up another 8mph with the 3s
As far as the heat goes, if you take a brake and check the temperature regularly it should be OK. This ESC is weird to say the least. Some even burn at 2S from running normally, not pushing it or anything.
It’s still going strong on 3s. I ordered a couple brushed 85000 rpm motors the ones that come painted brite colors and I wasn’t expecting it to run on the stock esc so I used another on another esc and it ran for about a min and quit I put the other brite painted motor and again one min. The esc is fine but I can’t figure out the motor. I even wired in a resistor like the stock motor but nothing. I wasn’t trying on 3s only a 2s. Is there a trick to those motors. Got them off eBay and for that min it ran it was quick. Any ideas. Thanks
@@Jasonkartracing Do these motors have carbon brushes? You can open them up to check, there'll be a black block on each side of the terminal that touch the armature. If they have that and it still stops after a minute then it's either a cutoff from the ESC (ESC can't handle it so it shuts off for safety) or the motor really can't take more than 5V.
I opened one motor and the brushes are gone and half of one terminal. Can i go with diff brushes and terminal
@@Jasonkartracing Yes, you can replace the terminals and brushes then keep using it but I'm afraid it'll burn again because the magnets and winding aren't suitable for this voltage.
Great conversion. Unfortunately the link for the motor gear doesn't work. Can you tell me what kind of gear I need for the brushless motor?
You can use the gears that came with the car. 15 and 17T with 5500KV motor. 16T also works well.
The gear is mod 0.5 with 2mm hole.
For more spare you can search for "plastic gears mod 0.5" or "plastic gears for small robots".
A big kit like this will have mod 0.5 pitch and many T to try. www.banggood.com/custlink/mvDtaOnJFj
Mini-Z AWD motor pinions are also another option.
Thank you so much.👍
Hi man I got one of these and have you to thank for your videos as they helped me out and get this thing rolling man thanks to you pal so thank you for you videos and mods total respect pal thanks a million bud I watched all of these on this car two get it how it is many thanks MJs RCs 👍👍👍 🤘😎👍
Thank you Beaver's Hobby for another super informative, no nonsense tutorial video. Great job.
Thank you for making all these videos!
Hello from V&b speed a new rc community channel ✌
The Traxxas board is wired the same way. I don't think it very strange. I like your video thou
Hi Beaver, very nice detailed build as always, you are a true inspiration. Can you please advise what AWG wire and bullet connector (size) cable is used here for the rocket v2 motor which connects to the Daskmikro brushless ESC.
20 or 22AWG. I used to use 20. It was a bit thick but fit well on the motor. GL Racing and all others come with 22AWG and work well without heating up so get 22AWG if you can, otherwise 20 will do.
The plug size is 2mm banana.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you Beaver.
The esc wiring isn’t that strange if you come from 1/10, most esc are wired like that, but great video like always
Thanks for the input.
Hi Beaver, Thank you for this video. Were you satisfied with the 15 tooth motor pinion in this setup? You were looking for the 14 tooth pinion. What is the pitch of that motor pinion please? Thank you
Yes, I'm satisfy with 15T for drifting. The gear pitch is mod0.5. It's very common for small toy cars and robots so you can find the gears pretty easily on ebay or aliexpress.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks Beaver👍
I know this video is like 2ish years old now, but would you still recommend this drift setup for a 284131? Thanks for the info! 👍
Yes, this build is still the same for 284131. However the ESC has changed a bit. The DasMikro that I use is not available anymore. You can use DasMikro V3 or PN Racing V2 instead depending on which one you can get the cheapest.
my leopard hobby motor and ESC combo for 1/28 has just arrived but the motor shaft doesn't seem to have a groove on it. Does the pinion gear just slide onto the shaft? this is weird to me that the shaft does not have a groove
Yes, the pinion will slide onto and tight fit on the shaft. Don't worry if the shaft doesn't have a groove.
Thank you. The original metal pinion that is on the stock motor is kinda hard to get out, do you have any tips?
@@forthememes1311 If you have a gear puller it'd help a lot. If not, take it out of the car then heat it up with a hairdryer or something. Be careful not to melt the motor mount though.
Does the surpas esc run fine besides the caulking? And is the caulking only when starting to accelerate?
Besides cogging (stuttering) it is also slow to respond. Imagine pulling the trigger and it takes a while to react.
ANY SUGGESTIONS for some tires that offer more grip? Everyone seems to be focusing on drifting while many still care about real racing. Any hope I would appreciate it.
The tyre compound depends mainly on the surface you are driving on. For RCP and what I use for upside down EVA garage mat, you can't go wrong with Kyosho Mini-Z radial tyres. The lower the number the higher the grip. I use 30 degree for both front and rear and it grips really well. If you only race on RCP another option is Marka Racing.
You can go as low as 20 degree but it might incur some grip rolls. So if you like the grip for 20 degree but it rolls in corners you can change the front to a less grippy one like 30.
If you play on wooden floor or regular home floor then foam tyres are great. I have some GQ tyres for driving around. The setup is front soft, rear super soft. Not that the car rolls over but it's for the car to not spin out that easily.
How did you get the brass gear off of the motor shaft??? The motor wont come away from the mount without removing it first. I didn't see you address this in the video.
GREAT video by the way!
This was the older version with plastic gear. The new version with brass gear... that one is almost impossible to remove. It's very difficult to get a gear puller in so I ended up not removing it and keep using the old motor.
Another way is to try and heat up only the shaft and push the gear out with a screwdriver. However this way is tricky and you might end up melting the motor mount instead.
@BeaversHobby yes sir indeed.
I ended up buying the motor/shaft/mount assembly and cut the motor off with a cut-off wheel. It was a little messy, but it worked. Only $13 for the assembly too.
@@TheJoshRed Yes, that's better than trying to pull the original motor out and risk damaging everything.
very good videos.. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
can you tell me what tool do you use to open the turnbuckles?
Ball link plier from Trex250 helicopter. www.align-trex.co.uk/tools-supplies/tools/tools/250-ball-link-plier-h25070t.html
I have problem with original transmitter so i must to change it. Problem is selecting new ESC for brushed motor. Will hobbywing quicrun 1060 fit correctly with original motor? I know IT is oversized, but every small ESC looks same and i want to buy crap.
Quicrun 1060 won't fit but Quicrun 1625 will. You'll need to cut down the wires to make it smaller and change the plug to JST-XH 2 pin for the motor.
Another good one is DumboRC 10A. It doesn't have cut-off but it has an alarm port so you can install 5v buzzer and it'll beep when the battery is low.
Here's an old video but you'll see how 1625 fits on the car. ruclips.net/video/ryH56xxftOc/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby is radiolink rc6gs good? I know that rc4gs can be enought, but rc6gs i can buy on aliexpress with shipping from my country. When i buy rc4gs IT is high probability to pay VAT so end cost can be the same.
@@wrzodek01 It's basically RC4GS with 2 extra channels so yes, it's good. If you can get the RC6GS for the same price, get the it.
Great tutorial. Thanks a lot!
Hey ist es möglich die Spur vorne von wide auf Narrow umzubauen?
Unfortunately, no. It can't.
Ok macht nichts. Habe noch eine Nissan 350z Karosse zuhause
Thanks for the vid. Especially surprised about esc difference! I was struggling to reduce cogging of surpass rocket combo and now it's the time to change my esc to dasmikro one too.
Btw, is GLA 10.5mm CVD shorter than Atomic one? For mine, GLA dogbones popped off from drive cup unless 0.9~1.3mm spacer added...
They should be the same size. However some diffs like ball differential have shorter drive cups so that might still cause a problem with 10.5mm shaft.
@@BeaversHobby Oh.. then keeping spacers with GLA CVD and applying threadlock on wheel nuts seems best for me now.. thanks beaver!
@@별빛여우-c1o My pleasure.
Hey @Beaver's Hobby How does the DASMIKRO esc compares to gl racing esc v1.2 ? Does the DASMIKRO esc performs just as well?Thinking of buying an esc soon.
They are almost the same. Dasmikro has a bit higher starting speed but less to no cogging. GL has softer start and lower speed but might cog with some motors. Beyond that part, they are the same. Well, they are both Hobbywing programmed after all.
Hello, i have troubles with this FOW Unit on my k969.
Situation: driving in a straight line then letting of the Throttle the car spins out immediatly.
Do you have a solution for this? Already checked if the wheels are not tightened to the same amount but that did not help.
That is normal for one way especially if you were going fast then let go of the throttle. (Skip to 4.36 of this video to see the explanation ruclips.net/video/rTveWKmr8xY/видео.html )
You can only lessen the effect by making sure the steering is centered, lube the one way bearings inside so they spin forward with the same friction and if you have a bit of toe out that will also help.
Hi Beaver i bought a 0808 4100kv brushless motor and i wanna know can recomend a good ESC that i could yous for my K969 project would help me out a lot thx .
Take a look at DasMikro V3 or PN Racing V2 for a decent budget setup. There's also one from aliexpress shop BYRC too, try and find one that looks like PN Racing V2 and you will get the same at a (presumably) lower price.
Hey Beaver, I tried the calibration with that esc and a surpass hobby motor. Unfortunately it just stuttered and the esc and motor started getting really hot. Can you help me?
Check the wiring and gear mesh first. It shouldn't stutter or heat up the motor excessively if the wiring is correct and gear mesh is good.
Nice one mate 👍
Hello, great videos, but i wonder, what gears do you use for the long shaft? i'm thinking the front and rear that you replaced.
It depends if you want drift or touring/grip. For drift, yes, get the same front one way and rear solid axle (or just front one way) that I have and you'll get a good drift car. For touring/grip, take a look at Mini-Z differential for gear diff or ball differentials from Mini-Q (OK quality), Atomic AMZ (good quality with a bit of chance to slip), GL Racing GLA (great quality).
1:25 why don't we want a wider car here? I see you see making s specific point i cannot understand. Thank you 😊
This car is wide enough as it is for 1/28 and will not really benefit anything if it gets any wider.
If the car gets wider the dog bone part of the swing shaft/CVD won't reach the differential and it will drop off the car causing it to loose drive or worse, snap the CVD. And you will need to re-work all the linkages otherwise the toe angle will be too extreme to drive (here's the video about metal upgrade ruclips.net/video/cKw-T2f-Qms/видео.html )
Also it will be harder to find a body to fit. Besides, the quality of the metal upgrade is very random. Mostly you will get a kit that will not work.
May I also ask where did you get different tension springs? The green one that you use
They are Mini-Z AWD DWS springs. bit.ly/3kXDk11
If I purchase the fow with the solid axle, how do I install it? Can I just replace the rear diff with it? And what are the turnbuckles you mentioned in the description? I can't find a link for them.
Really good videos btw
Also, does the body in the video fit without any modifications?
@@kaufempfehlung6803 Yes, you can install front one way and rear solid axle along with long CVD (25 or 27mm). The turnbuckles come and go pretty quickly so search for Mini-Q and Trex250 parts should come up with something some day.
As for the body, yes it fits without any modification but you'll have to replace the wheels as well to 0mm offset narrow. You can use this Camaro ZL1 or Dodge Hellcat body.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the quick response, I really appreciate that ^^
@@kaufempfehlung6803 My pleasure.
One thing that i would like t see is a video showing a complete build only from upgrade Without the base K989.
Your videos are just beautifuly made well done
Hello beaver i was wondering what screwdriver and tools do you use for the car i have a k969 and im planning on upgrading it but i dont know what screwdriver and tools to use for it. Also im very new to this rc stuff do you know any recommended upgrades i should do?
You'll need Philips cross screwdriver no.1, hex screwdriver or Allen key 1.5mm and nut driver or cross wrench with 4mm slot. You can use a generic cross wrench for RC car on eBay that goes for 1-3 USD. You can also get a full set of screwdriver and nut driver for computer and mobile phone from an electronic or computer shop. The quality isn't as good as proper RC equipment but it will get you going for much cheaper and it's easier to find.
Hi great video , have you tried the metal diff housing (gear box) ? I have one on the way and I imagine it will need tinkering with to fit correctly ?
Not yet but as far as I know it doesn't need tinkering.
@@BeaversHobby thanks 👍 I'm currently upgrading to full metal and your videos have helped a lot ,it's such a shame that most the metal parts don't fit without modification ,but gives me something to do lol
will the stock pinion work with the 1410 surpass hobby brushless motors?
Yes, it works. However it might be too tight to get in again so if you can get some plastic gear mod 0.5, get some for spares.
Great video! Can I use this motor + ESC + servo on 284131?
Yes, you can. It is exactly the same car, just with a different body.
Great video. I noticed the wheels connected to the front one way differential don't spin when you let off the trigger. I thought they should spin freely. Won't the one way diff behave more like a locked diff if the wheels are too tight and don't spin freely?
The oil is still a bit sticky right now. If you look when I reversed, the front wheels did't move. That's probably a better measurement whether it works or not.
@@BeaversHobby Hi Beaver, I think my front one-way is also sticky -- perhaps this is why if I let off the the throttle at full speed (in a straight line) the car turns sharply to the right? Even with the above, the front-one way has mad a considerable difference improving the sharpness of corners I can take.
Have you done or could recommend a video on Fluids and lubricants, etc? I'd love a crash course on what should be used for cleaning/lubing bearings, diff grease/types to use, what works good on shocks, etc.
Hello! I haven't found Toyota Celica in your list of bodies. Don't you know wether it fits wltoys k989?
No, it doesn't fit. Mini-Z's Celica is 90mm narrow.
@@BeaversHobby thanks
@@DenysSolovei My pleasure.
Super video.... thank you for your work
The run time it is better with this brushless motors or do you need a bigger battery? And do you think the 2500kv is enought for a small place
Theoretically it will consume less power but realistically you won't see much difference. Upgrade the battery to a bigger capacity is the best way to get more runtime.
And for the motors it is enough for driff 1410 2500kv
@@alexgou2519 Yes, it's enough to drift in a small track. You can also use bigger pinion to get more speed if you need that.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much
Great video as always, btw i've seen many videos about 1/28 rc car. Many people convert awd wltoys to rwd. Why rwd drift car more popular than awd? Is it easier to drive?
RWD is more difficult to drive but it's more realistic and more satisfying to drive. I've also made a series documenting my RWD conversion. ruclips.net/p/PLS79G3YjA2fDY_ESGp0wk6Wom8Zrt0u6E
@@BeaversHobby yes i've seen your videos too. Maybe someday im going to convert my wltoys to rwd. Atomic drz pretty expensive imo 😂
Can you tell me if your Radiolink R4FGM mini receiver is compatible with the Flysky GT3C controller?
No, it's not.
Hi, congratulations for the videos.
I wanted to ask where can I buy pinion of different sizes for this engine?
Do you have a link or an acronym so I can search?
The pinion gear is mod 0.5 pitch with 2mm diameter hole which is pretty common for small toys, cars and robots.
You can use Mini-Z AWD pinion gear set part number MD006B. banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MD006B
Apart from searching by gear pitch you can also use "plastic gears for small robot" on aliexpress or ebay to get a gear kit that contains some gears you can use.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks.
Since I replaced the original drive shaft with a metal one, isn't the plastic sprocket likely to be damaged quickly ?
are metal sprockets for that engine ?
@@Boblebe There are metal gears too if you look up on Aliexpress. But normally if the gear mesh is good it will last pretty long.
@@BeaversHobby Tanks
@@Boblebe My pleasure.
Any suggestions on the evo body 9 would be nice any help would be very appreciated many thanks 👍✌
There's Evo9 from Mini-Q which is a bit wide but it's 94mm wheelbase so you'll have to cut the wheel arches to make it 98mm and make a new bodykit for it.
Great info here Beev, i subbed right away👍🏽
Hi remember me
I made a little fan art on my channel as a thank you for helping me with answering my questions about k969 build
Please note I made that for fun and not to make fun of anything or anyone
Hi there Beaver, I found some multi purpose, anti-seize copper grease in my house. Was wondering if that could be used in the k989 diff.
No, don't use copper grease on it. I recommend you find something safe for plastic like PTFE or lithium grease.
Thank you my friend, appreciate your help and videos.
@@Rali99 My pleasure.
Awesome video, I'm about to make this conversion but I can't decide between the Furitek or the DasMikro ESC.
You say in your Furitek vid that it's the best you've ever used, but is it really worth the 40 extra dollars?
It depends on what you want. Furitek is the best and worth every penny if you really use all the features like realtime setup (no restart the ESC, just change the value and it uses that setting instantly), throttle curve, fine tuning the the control and also has ultra fast response. Basically it's racing-grade stuff that no many casual drivers will use.
If you just want something that works well and power any 1410/1625 motor without hiccups, DasMikro is all you need.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the detailed response, I can't imagine myself using all those features since I'm still super new to rc drifting, but I still want it ha.
hello
new subbie from indonesia
greetings one remote from indonesia
very informative, thanks for the info
awesome video
thanks for the links - going to try a few of these upgrades on my son's 989. by the time it's fully hopped up though its getting close to the price of a drz, bmrx, etc.
in your opinion, what's the #1 best performing mini drift platform today?
I'd say GLD has the best overall performance and design. It's easy to tune and very well thought-out. It'll need some upgrades like front aluminium bulkhead, aluminium knuckles and shock towers but after that it's a great car.
BMR-X drives great but changing motor and tuning is tricky.
DRZ V2 is supposedly good. I got the V1 and it's really good so I haven't bought V2 yet. You got a lot out of the box like adjustable wheelbase and aluminium front knuckles but it can't adjust between low and high motor mounting position.
Also don't upgrade the WLtoys K989 chassis with aluminium parts or carbon chassis. Keep it stock and only do the electronics, diffs, wheels & tyres. Basically anything that you can move to a better chassis. This will look expensive because radio, ESC and motor combined are way more expensive than the car itself but you'll have to buy them with any car anyway.
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the detailed response!
I’ve also got a drz v1 but some of the aftermarket or replacement parts have been hard to find at times. I think I’ll pick up a GLD next thanks again🙏
@@typexfantasy My pleasure. Best of luck with the project!
Have you tried the Dasmikro V3 esc yet?
No, not yet.
Always followed your stuff, even before I finally got my k989. When you plan to switch between drift and touring car, are you going to change the diffs too? Or just the tires?
Change the diffs too. Standard gear diffs are fine but if you want more adjustability, get some ball diffs.
As well as Wltoys making the k989 they also have make the k969 which is a drift car. It’s also the same price.
@@Digitness K969 is the same car with different body (Porsche), locked diff instead of open diff and drift tyres (not that good but they'll work). I mainly go with K989 because to me the body looks better, open diff can be locked but locked can't be opened and I'll get better tyres anyway. All in all it makes no difference what car it is if you end up doing what's in this video. Just choose the body you like.
Hello from V&b speed a new rc community channel ✌
Thats look awesome my friend 🤩
Do you have a link for where I can buy the LK rc differentials you use? I’m in the US. THANKS
I got them from Aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001671065507.html
Thanks.
@@Mrtomskiee2 My pleasure.
I ordered all of the same parts as in your video. I hope to get to Bind all with the Radiolink remote RC4GS. I already have the Hobbywing programming card.
Thank you very much for your tutorial I will try to do exactly like you.
Can you tell me if it is possible to add LEDs to the Radiolink R4FGM mini receiver?
You meant controlling led via radio? You'll need a light controller for that. Otherwise if you just want a simple light that stays on once you turn the car on then you just need some LEDs with resistors like in this video. ruclips.net/video/_g4uwUtobPk/видео.html
Normally the ESC will output 5V to the receiver so you can calculate the resistor you need from that.
@@BeaversHobby No, I just want a simple light that stays on. This is for a Mercedes AMG GT3 body.
I was thinking of using a system that I hook up to the receiver. Thanks for your link.
I will already wait to receive all the parts with the brushless motor.
@@juMorand My pleasure. Good luck with the project!
@@BeaversHobby I bought and assembled the Wltoys K989 like in your video.
I have a problem. When I start to accelerate, and barely 20s or more, the car shuts off as if there was no battery left.
What must be configured on the ESC to remove the lipo cut-off safety?
@@juMorand Turn the menu 3 to value = 1. It should be off as default so if it shuts off then I'm afraid it's something else. The overheat protection is off as default too so I don't know what could possibly go wrong there.
Hi i have a
ISDT Q6 Pro BattGo 300W 14A Pocket Lipo Battery Balance Charger
but it cant charge the Lipo that came supplied via the JST plug, does it need to be charged via the the supplied usb charged and the balance plug?
PS. Love this Vid, cost me a small fortune but love it all the same.
The Q6 Pro has XT-60 output so you'll need an adapter to convert JST RCY (red JST on the battery) to XT-60.
@@BeaversHobby Sorry should have been more clear, i have like a 7 in one multi connector cable that goes to chargers XT-60, so i plug balance lead in to chargers balance port and JST to JST RCY on multi connector. but it wont charge, discharge or storage charge. just gives error.
SORTED: I Hope :)
i run-in the car on stand for a short while, put a cell checker on it and it was way out. cell 1=3.86 cell 2=3.54 charged it then with the supplied usb charger that took 10 minutes and the light went off. so tried my charger again and put it in storage charge and it worked charged and discharged cells matched.
will just keep an eye on it, hope its ok.
@@PrInCeUKER Sounds like there's a break in the circuit. Check the balance plug placement too because it's all in the same slot but I don't know which side is the correct one. Also some multi connector or board isn't that good so the problem can come from there too. Maybe you can try and make an adapter?
Meanwhile you'll have to make do with the supplied charger. It won't burn your house down or anything so don't worry.
Great tutorial as always!
Hello from V&b speed a new rc community channel ✌
Hey @Beavers, bought a DRZv2 with electronics, now I have to program the ESC, which cards can I use to do it? Thanks in advance mate, love your work!
It's the standard non-sensored ESC, right? You can actually use the same method in this video (holding and clicking the button). The menu table is different so here you go. imgur.com/3voCnHc
You can also use a Hobbywing programming card like this bit.ly/36m1qw8 but with the menu table in the link above.
@@BeaversHobby thank you once more for your help! I’ll try it manually once I finish building the chassi
@@SPL3NDiD1 My pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby hey, how have you been? Hope you and yours are safe. I have 3 batteries for my wltoys are they compatible with the DRZv2?
@@SPL3NDiD1 Yes, the batteries are compatible with DRZ V2.
you are insane and i love it!!!
Hi Beaver, is the HRC LB Works GTR35 fits on K989? if it does, what are the wheels offset?
LB GTR35 sort of fits with narrow wheels 0mm offset on both front and rear.
The shock tower fits perfectly without modifications but you'll have to cut the front splitter and shave the front wheel arches otherwise it won't be able to turn
@@BeaversHobby ok thanks
@@luckyt3526 My pleasure.
Good my friend 👍
The 10.5mm shaft you use costs 90$ to ship to the U.S lol. Sucks to live here. do you know any other sites or brands that sell 10.5mm universal shafts? I cannot drive my car without the long ones :(
Atomic, GL also have distributors in the US. This one for example. www.kenonhobby.com/HRC-GLD-Alum-7075-Universal-Shaft-105mm_p_46610.html
Kenon is the biggest store in terms of Mini-Z.
There's also www.wolframrc.com/ , etc.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks man, you are literally one of the most responsive and helpful rc channels I have ever followed
@@forthememes1311 My pleasure.
Please help my carbon fiber chassis with aluminum parts from Aliexpress drive shaft center bearing. I don't know which bearing I need.
Bearing: inner diameter x outer diameter x width
Motor mount bearing: 2x5x2.5, put the bearing on first then put the shaft through it.
Gearbox bearing: 3x7x2, there are 2 of this and they go on the gear. Put them on before putting the gear on the shaft.
epic iam getting back into rcing i still have my k989 ill look for a motor i have a rx7 body but i think that wont fit i also have a ae86 i whis i can make that fit i would have to build a new chassi for that epic video !
Would the low volt cutoff on the esc have any effect on the R6FG receiver gyro? my Gyro stopped working after I set the same volt cutoff as you did. Also when i brake and go into reverse, the car wont go into forward again. looks like my esc and receiver are faulty 😥
No, the cutoff won't effect the gyro. It's a different part entirely. Check your transmitter setting and gyro setting on the receiver. Maybe you can re-calibrate the ESC and see if that helps with the direction not changing. It sounds like your throttle is reversed for some reason so it normally from forward-brake-reverse it goes in the opposite direction so reverse and break instead.
You can reset the ESC programming by holding the button for a few seconds while it's on.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the advice, I thought the throttle might have been reversed as well but after I brake and then reverse, the green led stays on on the ESC and it wont do anything, it was working previously as well so i think its probably damaged in some way.
@@ArcticNightwind Try and reset the programming.
Hi Mr B, I dont know why my motor is clogging, I'm using dasmikro but when I press full throttle it is clogging, when I plus the th trim to full there is no clog but I cant reverse, please help thank you
You'll have to calibrate the ESC before use.
Hold the button then turn it on, press once to register mid point, hold the throttle and press to register full throttle then push the throttle and press the button to register full reverse.
Also check the soldering and gear mesh. Those can make the motor cog as well.
@@BeaversHobby Hi Mr B, I managed to find the problem, it's rather embarrassing but to share, I actually tightened the motor mounting screw too tight so it gets stuck when rotating in certain directions so now it is fine, thank you
@@Raj_RDX Glad you got it working!
Wow touring car very cool..
Great setup, I got cogging issue on Surpass 1410 3500kv combo at startup. Any suggestion for how to solve it? my car is GLA V2.1. I was running 2S 400mah lipo. thank you.
Which ESC do you have? It's usually from the ESC is there's cogging. You can program it and set the timing to 0 to help with cogging. The next best thing to do is checking the drivetrain so it's smooth and you can roll the car without the motor on.
@@BeaversHobby MINI 1410 brushless ESC. I was purchased 3500kv combo. I got 2 and had cogging issue on both of them.
@@jerrycheng5409 Oh, that one... I suggest you replace it with DasMikro or Atomic, GL ESC.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the reply. My DasMikro still on the way, but just want to see if the cogging issue can be solved by some way because I do have 2 Surpass 1410 ESCs with program card. I should watch your video before purchase.
@@jerrycheng5409 Unfortunately, you can't improve it beyond programming which has very little effect.
That's good videos...
Thanks for sharing...
Hi Beaver,
I use the same motor and esc as those in your video. But I have a problem here. I have set the voltage cut off to position 6 the same as you've done in the video. At first, the esc and motor works normaly. But after a while, the esc show strange behaviour. It repeatedly emit 2 green light (or 2 beep) and the motor won't rotate even if I pull the throttle (but the servo works normgaly). The motor will work again (and there will no 2 continous beep) if I set the cut off to position 1. Any other cut off position (2-6) will cause error to the esc and motor.
Can you help me to solve my problem? Can you guess what the cause of my problem? Is it the defective esc, motor, or battery?
FYI, I have measured the battery voltage after charging. The voltage is about 8.4v (instead of 7.4v as written on the battery body). Is that normal? Note : I use stock battery that shipped with the RC.
I use radiolink rc4gs and the included receiver
@@noviantobayuprabowo8094 It looks like you got cut-off when it suddenly stopped. However the LED should be blinking red but I could be wrong. Sounds to me like the voltage drops too fast and triggers the cut-off.
The position 1 of cut-off it turning it off. There's no negative effect to the power delivery but it will not stop the car if the battery goes lower than minimum safe voltage (2.7V per cell) so if you keep monitoring the battery voltage, you can turn it off.
The 8.4V is fully charged voltage of 2S lipo so there's no need to worry.
The original battery is decent. But if you have another 2S to try then do it first. Since the ESC still (sort of) working I would assume it's stull function properly.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for your quick reply my friend :)
Anyway, I have another lipo battery to try. I have measured their voltage and they are above 7 volt but they give the same esc error.
Actualy, the esc work fine for a short time after instalation/assembly (even if I set the cut off mode to 6). But after a while it began to error.
@@noviantobayuprabowo8094 That's really strange. But it can go faulty so there's that too. If you are certain all the wirings are correct then there's a problem with the ESC. By the way you can also try reversing the channel 2 and calibrate it again but I don't think it'd make much difference.