Really awesome, in depth review/comparison. Already liked it with a good explanations, and then you totally torn the car apart, showing everything. The image and measurements of the driveshaft! Really impressed! I don't really trust most reviews, but this is a good one, you really know what you are talking about.
I think you are the master of micro scale rc cars, you are like a tuner of micro hobby rc cars. I like the lights a lot and the general appearance of this model. Your video makes me to want to buy it.
Thank you very much for your useful content. I should note the following. I recently bought 284131. Already 284131, like 284010, has a 3 mm thick rod with metal gears on both sides, an aluminum radiator next to the motor and the top hole of the servo flywheel is the same as the bottom. But the differentials are still very sticky (
looks like a k989 refresh, i woulda liked to see a brushless one straight from the vendor. my biggest issue with the k989 was replacing the motor pinion gear, would have been nicer if it had a grub screw
Awesome video! The k9 series was what brought me to your channel. Hope you do a rwd drift conversion of this car with all the mods you'd do. Love to follow an updated step by step video! ❤❤
@BeaversHobby do you have access to a 3D printer?! That would be awesome! I have been trying to include different 3D printed parts in mine but most require so kind of alterations to work well. A guide to include that would be amazing!
You can do everything by hand no 3D printer needed.Just print the chassis and steering rod from beaver to the 98mm lenght of the weehlbase clue to 5mm pvc board cut it out trim it a bit drill the holes and tada steering rod the same goes for the chassis 1.5mm.Beaver got us coverd with all we need to know even if you feel not that smart do not be affraid you cant do anything wrong just follow beaver he will guide you trough.Its the best hobby and he os a 1/24mod god love you beaver for all you did to help us.And do not buy the new one stick with the K969 period use the Miniz parts and have fun.
Great review Beaver! On the old versions I fixed the steering by moving the screw to the upper hole + JB weld. On the old versions after much racing I broke, steering cups (both front and rear), a differential, wore the prop shaft gear and had one quit on me, something wrong with the "brain"... esc maybe? I'm looking forward to the dual-rate feature on the new version. I want to get my kids into rc racing but they struggle a lot with throttle management.
The gears and diffs are also consumables so they will wear out over time. But if the wearing is too fast like in a few runs then there's something wrong about it. Otherwise, no need to worry.
Hi Beaver. Nice video to show the differences. Just got a brand new K969 (here in Germany) and it also has all those changes (and both diffs are locked). As I wanted to do the diff changes (one way in front) I have to think about a way to fit the Mini-Z one in. As inner diameter of bearing is only 0.35mm larger I should be able to work something out... maybe 3d print some micro bushing ;)
I also just got a k969 that came with metal pinions and apparently the other changes. Hopefully there's a good way to add the FOW! My drivetrain was very stiff out of the box, but I'm hoping it's just the motor that needs to be worn in--nothing seems to be dragging in the gearbox.
After watching this i this the green drift truck with lights may be best option..at least if diffs or cups break you can order new ones easy and cheap..many guys that reviewed this car pretty much said it was identical and diffs etc parts are same..not tye case at all..many reviewers giving wrong information which is worse than giving no information...i recently used a 20t mod6 to replace in a car since a reviewer said that was perfect fit..but actually i learned for another guy its a 22t pinion i needed...so i obviously stripped my 20t and had to order new gear..now its all good..😊
I am totally up to work with these little guys. I have 3 now, just purchase the prowler 22. And I've been just tricking them out. Awesome video Looks like this one might be my next. LOL thanks for the good stuff.😊
Pinion removal tip: Squish the pinion with large vice grips, alternate 90 degrees, it will start cracking and fall off after a few minutes. Which radio do you like more, the truck version or this new version?
Thanks for the tip. I guess there's no non-destructive way to take the motor pinion out after all. If all the updates are applied equally (which seems to be the case now) and just the body is different then I prefer the truck version. I don't like the roof rack on this new K989 that much.
Very professional review, thank you for the video. However, I still can't decide which one I should get. Maybe I prefer the 284131 because it's better for drifting and I like its looks, but the upgraded parts for this generation also seem nice.
Right now there's a chance you might get the updated chassis underneath no matter which one you choose. So, just choose it based on the body you like. Personally I still think the 284131 looks the best out of everything they've done so far.
Hi, Thank you for all these 1/28th scale RC videos, Could you please explain the requirements for an AWD drift car regarding the differentials, pinion gears, tyres, etc...? I'm confused as to which Wl toys model is the best cheaper alternative to a mini z drift car (or maybe which model can easily become the best alternative, with a few modifications).
Basically if it has locked differential and plastic drift tyres, it will drift. Only one model of WLtoys comes with that out of the box, the K969. You can drift it right out of the box. However the stock tyres from K969 are not that good. So you'll consider buying a set of good wheels and tyres, usually from Mini-Z anyway. And you can lock the diff by yourself. Just open it up and put a small piece of paper inside to block to gears from spinning. So getting the K969 doesn't make much difference and I recommend you to choose it based on the body you like. For more advanced drifting you might want the front one way from Mini-Z. It'll fit WLtoys too providing you change the front gearbox to the old style (it has bigger bearing slot) and use long CVD. This conversion will allow you to use any Mini-Z compatible differential. Keep the rear diff locked though, no need to change that.
@@BeaversHobby that's really helpful, thanks. I'd never heard of the paper trick before! Are the chassis/pinion upgrades of the recent models a deal-breaker and should I change the body to one I like afterwards or is the effect on longevity and performance negligible(in which case I would go for one with a body I like)?
@@elishahodgson1635 The metal centre shaft pinions upgrade on the new version is really good and will help with longevity. Also this update might have been retroactively fit to the previous models in the new batch already. So, it's quite a gamble if you will get the old model hoping for the diff compatibility. You might end up with the new drivetrain upgrade anyway.
I’m just getting into rc cars and trying to learn as I go. I want to get into racing, not drifting, so which of these two versions would be best for someone with that goal in mind? I feel like the 284010 with the improvements might be better but I’m not sure. I plan to get multiple and get them to a point where I can race them around a track together and have fun, not crashing into walls or traction rolling so I know I will be learning a lot to get them to that point. Also do you know anything about the versions off Alibaba for the k9 series that have an lcd transmitter or a v2 after them? I plan to watch all your videos on these cars so sorry if you have answered this before.
284010 with improvements will help a lot with the touring or grip driving. I don't know if the upgrades have been implemented to the previous versions yet so get the new one just to be sure. I don't think the upgraded transmitter with LCD makes any difference. It doesn't tell you any crucial information and you can just look at the dial position to tell how much is the throttle rate or trim you have. Still, if it's the same price, having a screen is nice. Don't worry about the questions. Please feel free to ask.
@@BeaversHobby so with everything you have seen and tested, knowing I want to make these the best racers I can, would you recommend the 284010? I’ve also joined the RCGrouos forum and see you have posted a lot in there so I am working my way through the 243 pages but want to get my order placed soon if possible. And thank you for all the videos on these awesome little cars! Edit: and what does the wheel base being different between the 284010 and k989 mean? Body options or is it more than that?
@@nickgrady3221 Yes, I would recommend the 284010 for racing. The wheelbase is 98mm out of the box for all versions. The new one just can't extend to 102mm. The difference is the body compatibility as you understand. And also longer wheelbase will give the car a bit more stability but less agility. 98mm has good balance so there's nothing to worry about. As for the upgrades you only need wheels and tyres. Mini-Z AWD wheels will fit and Mini-Z radial tyres work on most surfaces. I drive touring cars on upside down EVA mats and this config works well. It will also work on carpet and RCP.
Hey great video! I have some technical questions about the rally car before buying. Do you happen to know what the voltage is coming from the plug that the lights plug into? I'm looking at running a fpv camera on the car and wanted to see if I could plug the camera into that plug. Camera needs 3.3 to 5.5 volts, just dont want to fry the camera, cheers mate!
Put the motor into the mount first then push the gear in. If it's the brass gear then you can't put it back easily unless you have a tool. Use the other gears that came with the car instead. For the spur gear on drivetrain, it has a notch so you'll have to spin it around until it clicks in.
I just got my wltoys 1/28 mini green drift truck,which handles great and is very fast..does this car handle as good and go as fast? Also are parts available now for this car like the other wltoy 1/28 cars? If so i will order this one soon...thanks for sharing..😊
Hi thanks for your video. I would need your advice. I am new to the field of mini drifting but have a lot of experience with other RC related vehicles like FPV-drones, cars, boats etc. I have been advised to start with an awd k969 to get some drifting experience and then convert it to a rwd drifter with gyro. I understand that the k969/989 has a large community and many aftermarket upgrades. As you mention in the video, 284010 is an update of 989 with stronger and more durable components. My question is if the new version has compatibility with aftermarket products such as rear wheel drive conversation, increased steering angle and locked diff. Which of the models (k969 or 284010) would you recommend buying primarily for drifting with consideration for durability and possibilities for upgrades? Thanks in advise BR Jens
Hello. It's basically the same car so the upgrades that applies to K989 will also work with the new one. Except the differential. The new version has smaller bearing size, hence slightly different gearbox so if you upgrade the diff to Mini-Z compatible diff, make sure you get the old version gearbox and bearing too so it fits. As for the RWD conversion, it's at the front so it will also work. They also go back and update the K989/969 too so even if you get those, you might get the same components as the new version.
@@BeaversHobby Hi again, I just wanted to thank you once again for the tips. A small update from before is that I have had my 284010 for a while and am very satisfied. First I ran it awd with locked original diff with das micro v5 gyro. Now I've converted to RWD with a kit from Bunta v2 and it's awesome. Now I'm thinking about what will be the next update, do you have any tips? new servo, motor..? I am also thinking of upgrading the body to a 2000GT-R KPGC110 or do you know of a body that fits directly to the 98mm wheelbase. thanks again :)
long time ago i bought a surpass hobby motor+esc for this car but that esc was horrible it could only turn the motor at like 15% power wich makes the car totaly uncontrolable for racing and sometimes even for drifting I can't find a good brushless esc that isn't 100$ I found this YSIDO 18A esc but I don't know if it has reverse and brake it just looks like a fpv drone esc do you have any cheap recomendations for me that you know are good?
Yeah... Surpass 18A sensorless version is garbage and I'm sorry you found it out this way. Check out BYRC 18A. It's basically Hobbywing EZRun 18A in a small package so it works brilliantly. I don't know if the link will appear but here it is. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002763087844.html $3 more for the programming car is a bargain if you don't have one already. I actually got the combo with motor when it was available for 25 Euros and it's great. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002919336408.html Another option is DasMikro V3, basically the same ESC in a different board but this one you'll have to solder everything on your own. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003527428937.html
I just got the k969 and had some of the "upgrades" like the thicker arms, diffs with the thicker cup, 3mm drive shaft, plus the stupid metal pinion gear that is impossible to remove...
Thanks for the info. So they do update the rest of the fleet. The metal pinion bugs me to no end. Also, I guess the aluminium gearbox serves its purpose now so we can use Mini-Z differential easily because of the bearing size.
@@BeaversHobby I used the older K9 on an event with kids running them all day long on asphalt and there were small pebbles going into the diffs from the holes on top of the diff cover, wearing the drive gears faster, so I am thinking maybe the metal drive gears will kill the diff gears? It will show in the long run!
@@MiniRacersRC Sand, dirt and grimes are gear killer. When combine those with metal gear going to plastic it will break the plastic part even faster. Close the holes with putty might help.
@@BeaversHobby I need to close them some how, this idea you said sounds nice. The only place is hard for this is the back where the alen ball thingy goes in but maybe there I can protect it another way but this should completely prevent pebbles from going in!
Is it possible to change the servo connector to the ecs to a regular size connector in order to upgrade the escalator? Or is there an adaptor I could buy? Many thanks. Your videos have been a great help with my k969.
XRX is still great to this day in terms of driving. The long-term durability is not looking so good though. The screw holes started strip a while back and it needs aluminium or metal upgrade to maintain the durability. MA is amazing. It's easy to build, tune and drive. The points against it being 1. expensive (but it's all aluminium so it's like you buy a fully upgraded car), 2. availability is poor and it's pretty hard to find.
@@BeaversHobby Okay, what gears for RWD drift gearing would you recommend on these updated models? Will keep stock motor for super budget build. Was thinking about getting the 284161 and add DUMBORC Gyro G03 along with resin 3d printed rims + the Kyosho drift tires you've recommended. Do you think the longer drive shafts of the 284161 will be a problem for wide angle? I know they need custom 3d printed adapters to properly mount the drift rims without play. The 284161 has heatsink and lightbar that's why I was interested in that model, is there a risk of it being too wide to properly drift?.
@@driacon For stock motor and RWD try 15T on the motor. The gear is included in the kit so no need to buy an extra one. As for the gyro Dumbo G03 should be alright. Personally I'd get the GT55 V5 or AFRC GYS-2 V4 because they are the same price but smaller. The 284161 has shafts that are long at the end to fit the large wheels so you'll need custom wheels for it to fit. Otherwise, just get the standard CVD so you can use standard Mini-Z AWD wheels. It's wide because the wheels are wide and that will look pretty weird on a car body.
Nice vid! Could you perhaps do one on the Wltoys 284161 1/28 buggy? I am looking to mod that, but since it seems a bit different to the others I have no idea what I can do with it...
It's based on the same chassis but with longer drive shaft on the wheels to accommodate bigger wheels. That's pretty much it. I think it's best to keep it stock. If the differentials are too loose, open them up and fill with gear diff grease (Kyosho has some) to increase the tension and it'll drive great. If you want to install new electronics, it's the same as K989. Except now that it has metal motor gear and you'll have to use a pliers to crush it to take the motor out.
Hi Beaver, planning to buy this new model but I would like to play this car as a basic drifter. I know this is more of a touring car. So my question: 1) Do I just change the diff into lock diff (both front and back) and it should be able to drift easier? 2) Will the diff for K969/k989 works in this model? Pls suggest me some basic upgrade to make this car driftable. Thanks for your reply 😊
1. Yes, it will drift easier with locked diff. You don't have to buy locked diff either, just open the original ones up and put a piece of paper in to block the gears or glue them then you'll have lock diffs. 2. Unfortunately, no. They also updated to diff to have smaller bearing diameter. If you want to upgrade it, first get some good drift tyres with Mini-Z wheels. The diff upgrade to front one way will require the gearbox replacement so it accepts 6x10x3mm bearings. If the old gearbox is still available then it's good. Otherwise you will have to get the aluminium gearbox. Just the front will be enough. The rear can use the original with locked diff.
Thank you for you Video Beaver... if you need to choose one brushless and ESC for this wone, which one'd you go for? ideally from Aliexpress. Thank you in advance.
Take a look at DasMikro V3.It's the best budget brushless ESC. It's on GT55 too. www.gt55racing.com/products/nb4-rx-integrated-micro-brushless-18a-esc?DIST=RUZBGw%3D%3D Another option is this kit from BYRC. Hopefully it's still the PN V2/Hobbywing if you buy it. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002919336408.html
Yes, some Mini-Z 98mm bodies fit on this. This is still the same as K989 so the front shocks are too high for some bodies and you might need some modifications. Here's the tutorial for lowering the front shocks. ruclips.net/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/видео.html Here's the list of compatible bodies with recommended offset and modifications. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY
Hi there! I noticed that if the wheels are slightly tightened, the transmission starts to rotate worse. Shouldn't we add washers between the wheel and the axle so that it turns more freely? And what moment is it worth tightening the wheels?
You don't need to tighten the wheel fully. Just tight enough so it doesn't wobble and loose enough so it can spin freely. You can add the washers if the wheel wobbles even when it's fully tighten.
Hello, and thank you for creating this video! I have this car and the metal center drive shaft pinion mesh is too tight against the rear diff ring gear. Do you have any ideas on how that could be fixed?
You can file the back of the diff so it leaves a bit more space. You can follow all the diagnostics and fixes here too. ruclips.net/video/TnhriaSSfSA/видео.html They are essentially the same car with the differences I pointed out in this video.
Hey! I ordered the buggy version of this car, and I noticed that when turning, it seems to lower the throttle. None of my older 1/28th WLtoys models do this. I contacted them and they said its normal. Does this version do that as well?
It doesn't lower the throttle on this version so I suspect the big wheels might have done something to the buggy/monster truck version. Check if there's any rubbing while you are turning and also if the wheels can still spin smoothly at the CV joints (dogbones) while turning. Sticky CV joints can lower the power output too.
going to get the buggy and the truck for me and the daughter have the 969 in shambles right now doing a rwd conversion now my question is will i have troubles playing together with them in the same area?
I'm glad they finally fixed the sticky drive train. That used to overheat my motor so much before I found your videos how to fix that (thank you). I hear this new car is hard to steer when driving fast? Thanks for showing the comparison with the truck. Do you have a Discord? Its a great platform for chatting, posting pictures and discussing anything.
I feel like the handling is still the same. The working diffs might be a factor why it's harder to steer though. Normally we need front locked/spool or very tight front diff for touring. I'm in a Discord group Small drifter 24. I don't use Discord that much.
Hello, great video! I have the old JJRC q35 and I’m trying to get it working properly; everything turns on and works for a few seconds and then the motor stops responding…the steering stays working but no throttle, but if I unplug and then reconnect battery, it will work for a few seconds. Any ideas?
This sounds like the low voltage cutoff kicks in. Check if the battery are still in working condition, ie. if the voltage is not lower than 6V when the throttle stops working. If the voltage is higher than that like 7V or more then the 2-in-1 unit or the ESC unit is faulty. In this case you will need to replace that 2-in-1 unit providing it's still available. Another way is to upgrade it by replacing the 2-in-1 with a proper ESC and upgrade the transmitter. Here's the tutorial. ruclips.net/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Man you were spot on! And I should have known better considering I have been in the hobby for 20 years😂 The voltage was correct with a multimeter but as soon as a load was put on it, it immediately dropped. Thanks for your reply
Do you think the new transmitter will work with the old k969? Because I’m experiencing transmitter problems it won’t connect to the car even though it is brand new. Should I get the new transmitter?
Which version of the K969 do you have. At some point there were update with the new all-in-one unit and it came with the black transmitter you see at 2:54. If it's that one then yes, this new transmitter will work. Otherwise if you have the flaming one then no.
@@BeaversHobbyBecause I have the flaming controller, do you recommend I buy the new k989 and put the receiver into the old 69 so I can use the new transmitter or is there a better way to upgrade the old k969s transmitter and or receiver.
@@Stoney69999 Upgrading the transmitter and electronics is a better way. You can get a much better transmitter that offers better controls, adjustability and it is a base for expanding your collection should you want to. Because you only need that one transmitter to control all the cars you will have. Here's the tutorial. ruclips.net/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby cool thank you so much for your information huge huge help. My final question is what should I buy if I want a adjustable wheel base and rwd for 1.24-1.28 scale . I seen you posted a video on a DRZ one that has the adjustable wheel base but it is sold out. Do you know any other rwd adjustable wheel base micro Rc?
@@Stoney69999 DriftArt 3S has the widest range for the wheelbase and width out of the box available right now. DRZ V3 also has the adjustable wheelbase but not width for the rear.
Hello sir I have a question, I have the same rc car it works its fine the only problem that I have with the car that wen it takes a bump into an obstacle it stops working, I need to shut down the car and started again so it can go. Do u know what the problem can be ?just bought it .hope u can help me
That sounds like a safety feature but it depends on how hard the bump is. If it's just a light knock and the car stops then there's something wrong. Check if the motor arear has the soldering joint too close to the chassis. If so a light knock can make it short circuit or ground on the chassis. you will have to either re-solder the motor or grind or cut that area of the chassis out. Otherwise it might be a faulty ESC box.
Thank very much sir for helping me out here , I'm going to try to see if those are the problems and u are right wen it bums a little bit harder, thats wen it stops . Didn't aspect such a quick replay back . U arevan awesome person.
Not out of the box. You will have to modify it to extend the wheelbase. From my calculaiton it will be around 111mm wheelbase and K969 only goes up to 102mm with the included gear and original chassis plate. What you need to do is cutting a new chassis plate, extend the length for another 9mm then if you want to retain the AWD then you will need to extend the prop shaft. Don't worry, it's just a 2mm diameter rod so you can probably find that anywhere.
The original pinion is 17T with mod 0.5 pitch and 2mm hole diameter. You can fit 15t or 19T in the bracket then move the motor in or out to adjust the gear mesh. If you need it to support more gear you will have to do some modifications like this. ruclips.net/video/bQiR-cfBnvw/видео.html I just got a tip to remove the original pinion (the brass one), you'll need to crush it with a pliers to completely destroy it to install a new one.
Yes, they will. Get the AWD wheels. Any Mini-Z AWD compatible wheels will work, PN Racing, GL Racing, DXR even Yeah Racing makes the wheels nowadays. Tyres are the same between AWD and RWD so choose whichever you like. There are other brands too like PN Racing and Marka.
Very good and interesting video. Can you recomend me a brushless esc, that works good and doesnt need many welding work? Im planning to use It with surpass rockets 1410 motor. By the way It would be good if It is over 20€ - 25€
No uses motores de más de 5000kv sino, te va a ir como el culo. Lo intente con unos de 7500kv y no arrancaba. Ponle una ESC medio en condiciones, sino, te va a pasar igual. Te lo digo por experiencia. Lo suyo sería un motor 2500-3500kv si lo quieres para drift o sino de 5000kv para correr.
DasMikro V3, PN Racing V2 and Atomic are good. DasMikro should be on Aliexpress for around 25 EUR. PN Racing V2 is on Mini-Z Racing Italia for around 29 EUR. Apart from those, there is the same board as PN Racing V2 floating around Aliexpress for 20 EUR If I'm not mistaken. However I don't know if you will get that exact ESC after buying because these shops often change their contents.
@@david9778 It's a gear puller kit like this. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004790203185.html Mine has "Walkera" helicopter branding but I don't think it would be any different.
Great video 👍 I like the 102mm wheel base so much on my chassis, I’m so glad I opted for the short truck over this one. The diff cups are really nice, that’s for sure an upgrade, because the older version I can see them bending on mine. I make videos of my chassis, please check it out if you like
![[How To] WLtoys Transmitter Dual Rate Mod (throttle limit)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/psmrXPsPpY8/mqdefault.jpg)
Really awesome, in depth review/comparison.
Already liked it with a good explanations, and then you totally torn the car apart, showing everything. The image and measurements of the driveshaft! Really impressed!
I don't really trust most reviews, but this is a good one, you really know what you are talking about.
I think you are the master of micro scale rc cars, you are like a tuner of micro hobby rc cars. I like the lights a lot and the general appearance of this model. Your video makes me to want to buy it.
Just got the truck and been drifting it with fpv, so fun.. thanks for your in depth videos, helped me improve the steering without any cost!
same here! It's a blast fpv'd
Thank you very much for your useful content. I should note the following. I recently bought 284131. Already 284131, like 284010, has a 3 mm thick rod with metal gears on both sides, an aluminum radiator next to the motor and the top hole of the servo flywheel is the same as the bottom. But the differentials are still very sticky (
looks like a k989 refresh, i woulda liked to see a brushless one straight from the vendor.
my biggest issue with the k989 was replacing the motor pinion gear, would have been nicer if it had a grub screw
Indeed! Giving us gears to adjust the ratio while having unremoveable pinion on the car is baffling to say the least.
They need to start making these bodies in different colors
Need to offer the bodies unpainted
Ordered it. Thank You
Appears this car lost it's sponsor, that Hoot N, guy. Underrated lil Cars & so much fun with a Dog.
Awesome video! The k9 series was what brought me to your channel. Hope you do a rwd drift conversion of this car with all the mods you'd do. Love to follow an updated step by step video! ❤❤
I'm thinking of that as well. It will still be the same concept to mod without using a 3D printer.
@BeaversHobby do you have access to a 3D printer?! That would be awesome! I have been trying to include different 3D printed parts in mine but most require so kind of alterations to work well. A guide to include that would be amazing!
@@t.j.maxxxrazor5935 Unfortunately I still don't have a 3D printer.
@@BeaversHobby entry level 3D printers have come a long way. Just picked up the Ender 3 V3 SE for 220. I'm very happy with it so far.
You can do everything by hand no 3D printer needed.Just print the chassis and steering rod from beaver to the 98mm lenght of the weehlbase clue to 5mm pvc board cut it out trim it a bit drill the holes and tada steering rod the same goes for the chassis 1.5mm.Beaver got us coverd with all we need to know even if you feel not that smart do not be affraid you cant do anything wrong just follow beaver he will guide you trough.Its the best hobby and he os a 1/24mod god love you beaver for all you did to help us.And do not buy the new one stick with the K969 period use the Miniz parts and have fun.
Hi buddy,
I m looking for a cheap mini z car for a track. What is the best car to buy? Should I take the 284010?
Yes, 284010 is the one to get for a cheap track car. You can replace the wheels and tyres with better ones and it'll drive even better.
@ thank you 🤠👌🏼
All your videos are like ASMR. Just relaxing. Even better RC content though.
Your reviews are top notch. Thanks!!
Get my Car tomorrow it says. Metal rim drift tires Saturday. SO excited. THank you
Great review Beaver!
On the old versions I fixed the steering by moving the screw to the upper hole + JB weld.
On the old versions after much racing I broke, steering cups (both front and rear), a differential, wore the prop shaft gear and had one quit on me, something wrong with the "brain"... esc maybe?
I'm looking forward to the dual-rate feature on the new version. I want to get my kids into rc racing but they struggle a lot with throttle management.
The gears and diffs are also consumables so they will wear out over time. But if the wearing is too fast like in a few runs then there's something wrong about it. Otherwise, no need to worry.
Just got my second 284131 and it has these changes as well
Hi Beaver. Nice video to show the differences.
Just got a brand new K969 (here in Germany) and it also has all those changes (and both diffs are locked). As I wanted to do the diff changes (one way in front) I have to think about a way to fit the Mini-Z one in. As inner diameter of bearing is only 0.35mm larger I should be able to work something out... maybe 3d print some micro bushing ;)
I also just got a k969 that came with metal pinions and apparently the other changes. Hopefully there's a good way to add the FOW! My drivetrain was very stiff out of the box, but I'm hoping it's just the motor that needs to be worn in--nothing seems to be dragging in the gearbox.
After watching this i this the green drift truck with lights may be best option..at least if diffs or cups break you can order new ones easy and cheap..many guys that reviewed this car pretty much said it was identical and diffs etc parts are same..not tye case at all..many reviewers giving wrong information which is worse than giving no information...i recently used a 20t mod6 to replace in a car since a reviewer said that was perfect fit..but actually i learned for another guy its a 22t pinion i needed...so i obviously stripped my 20t and had to order new gear..now its all good..😊
Thank you for doing this video so WELL. Thank you.
I am totally up to work with these little guys. I have 3 now, just purchase the prowler 22. And I've been just tricking them out. Awesome video Looks like this one might be my next. LOL thanks for the good stuff.😊
I'll stick with my old one! Thx for the review!
Same put minz parts in make it Rwd and boom.
Tyvm for the Review 😊 👍
Very cool video dude.
Thanks a lot.
Pinion removal tip: Squish the pinion with large vice grips, alternate 90 degrees, it will start cracking and fall off after a few minutes.
Which radio do you like more, the truck version or this new version?
Thanks for the tip. I guess there's no non-destructive way to take the motor pinion out after all.
If all the updates are applied equally (which seems to be the case now) and just the body is different then I prefer the truck version. I don't like the roof rack on this new K989 that much.
Very professional review, thank you for the video. However, I still can't decide which one I should get. Maybe I prefer the 284131 because it's better for drifting and I like its looks, but the upgraded parts for this generation also seem nice.
Right now there's a chance you might get the updated chassis underneath no matter which one you choose. So, just choose it based on the body you like.
Personally I still think the 284131 looks the best out of everything they've done so far.
I also bought this model a month ago and it is very cool
Great review Beaver!
Hi,
Thank you for all these 1/28th scale RC videos,
Could you please explain the requirements for an AWD drift car regarding the differentials, pinion gears, tyres, etc...?
I'm confused as to which Wl toys model is the best cheaper alternative to a mini z drift car (or maybe which model can easily become the best alternative, with a few modifications).
Basically if it has locked differential and plastic drift tyres, it will drift. Only one model of WLtoys comes with that out of the box, the K969. You can drift it right out of the box.
However the stock tyres from K969 are not that good. So you'll consider buying a set of good wheels and tyres, usually from Mini-Z anyway.
And you can lock the diff by yourself. Just open it up and put a small piece of paper inside to block to gears from spinning. So getting the K969 doesn't make much difference and I recommend you to choose it based on the body you like.
For more advanced drifting you might want the front one way from Mini-Z. It'll fit WLtoys too providing you change the front gearbox to the old style (it has bigger bearing slot) and use long CVD. This conversion will allow you to use any Mini-Z compatible differential. Keep the rear diff locked though, no need to change that.
@@BeaversHobby that's really helpful, thanks. I'd never heard of the paper trick before! Are the chassis/pinion upgrades of the recent models a deal-breaker and should I change the body to one I like afterwards or is the effect on longevity and performance negligible(in which case I would go for one with a body I like)?
@@elishahodgson1635 The metal centre shaft pinions upgrade on the new version is really good and will help with longevity.
Also this update might have been retroactively fit to the previous models in the new batch already. So, it's quite a gamble if you will get the old model hoping for the diff compatibility. You might end up with the new drivetrain upgrade anyway.
@@BeaversHobby thanks, that's a wise thing to consider.
I’m just getting into rc cars and trying to learn as I go. I want to get into racing, not drifting, so which of these two versions would be best for someone with that goal in mind? I feel like the 284010 with the improvements might be better but I’m not sure. I plan to get multiple and get them to a point where I can race them around a track together and have fun, not crashing into walls or traction rolling so I know I will be learning a lot to get them to that point. Also do you know anything about the versions off Alibaba for the k9 series that have an lcd transmitter or a v2 after them? I plan to watch all your videos on these cars so sorry if you have answered this before.
284010 with improvements will help a lot with the touring or grip driving. I don't know if the upgrades have been implemented to the previous versions yet so get the new one just to be sure.
I don't think the upgraded transmitter with LCD makes any difference. It doesn't tell you any crucial information and you can just look at the dial position to tell how much is the throttle rate or trim you have. Still, if it's the same price, having a screen is nice.
Don't worry about the questions. Please feel free to ask.
@@BeaversHobby so with everything you have seen and tested, knowing I want to make these the best racers I can, would you recommend the 284010? I’ve also joined the RCGrouos forum and see you have posted a lot in there so I am working my way through the 243 pages but want to get my order placed soon if possible. And thank you for all the videos on these awesome little cars!
Edit: and what does the wheel base being different between the 284010 and k989 mean? Body options or is it more than that?
@@nickgrady3221 Yes, I would recommend the 284010 for racing. The wheelbase is 98mm out of the box for all versions. The new one just can't extend to 102mm. The difference is the body compatibility as you understand. And also longer wheelbase will give the car a bit more stability but less agility. 98mm has good balance so there's nothing to worry about. As for the upgrades you only need wheels and tyres. Mini-Z AWD wheels will fit and Mini-Z radial tyres work on most surfaces. I drive touring cars on upside down EVA mats and this config works well. It will also work on carpet and RCP.
Hey great video! I have some technical questions about the rally car before buying. Do you happen to know what the voltage is coming from the plug that the lights plug into? I'm looking at running a fpv camera on the car and wanted to see if I could plug the camera into that plug. Camera needs 3.3 to 5.5 volts, just dont want to fry the camera, cheers mate!
How do you put motor gear back on the drive train correctly? Thx for your work
Put the motor into the mount first then push the gear in. If it's the brass gear then you can't put it back easily unless you have a tool. Use the other gears that came with the car instead.
For the spur gear on drivetrain, it has a notch so you'll have to spin it around until it clicks in.
I just got my wltoys 1/28 mini green drift truck,which handles great and is very fast..does this car handle as good and go as fast? Also are parts available now for this car like the other wltoy 1/28 cars? If so i will order this one soon...thanks for sharing..😊
Yes, it handles the same as the green truck. The parts availability is also roughly the same.
Thanks..i just order one😊
Nice review as always, thank you for sharing 👍
Hi thanks for your video.
I would need your advice.
I am new to the field of mini drifting but have a lot of experience with other RC related vehicles like FPV-drones, cars, boats etc. I have been advised to start with an awd k969 to get some drifting experience and then convert it to a rwd drifter with gyro.
I understand that the k969/989 has a large community and many aftermarket upgrades. As you mention in the video, 284010 is an update of 989 with stronger and more durable components. My question is if the new version has compatibility with aftermarket products such as rear wheel drive conversation, increased steering angle and locked diff.
Which of the models (k969 or 284010) would you recommend buying primarily for drifting with consideration for durability and possibilities for upgrades?
Thanks in advise
BR Jens
Hello. It's basically the same car so the upgrades that applies to K989 will also work with the new one. Except the differential. The new version has smaller bearing size, hence slightly different gearbox so if you upgrade the diff to Mini-Z compatible diff, make sure you get the old version gearbox and bearing too so it fits.
As for the RWD conversion, it's at the front so it will also work.
They also go back and update the K989/969 too so even if you get those, you might get the same components as the new version.
@@BeaversHobby Hi again, I just wanted to thank you once again for the tips. A small update from before is that I have had my 284010 for a while and am very satisfied. First I ran it awd with locked original diff with das micro v5 gyro. Now I've converted to RWD with a kit from Bunta v2 and it's awesome. Now I'm thinking about what will be the next update, do you have any tips? new servo, motor..? I am also thinking of upgrading the body to a 2000GT-R KPGC110 or do you know of a body that fits directly to the 98mm wheelbase. thanks again :)
Great video
long time ago i bought a surpass hobby motor+esc for this car but that esc was horrible it could only turn the motor at like 15% power wich makes the car totaly uncontrolable for racing and sometimes even for drifting I can't find a good brushless esc that isn't 100$ I found this YSIDO 18A esc but I don't know if it has reverse and brake it just looks like a fpv drone esc do you have any cheap recomendations for me that you know are good?
Yeah... Surpass 18A sensorless version is garbage and I'm sorry you found it out this way.
Check out BYRC 18A. It's basically Hobbywing EZRun 18A in a small package so it works brilliantly.
I don't know if the link will appear but here it is.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002763087844.html $3 more for the programming car is a bargain if you don't have one already.
I actually got the combo with motor when it was available for 25 Euros and it's great. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002919336408.html
Another option is DasMikro V3, basically the same ESC in a different board but this one you'll have to solder everything on your own. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003527428937.html
I just got the k969 and had some of the "upgrades" like the thicker arms, diffs with the thicker cup, 3mm drive shaft, plus the stupid metal pinion gear that is impossible to remove...
Thanks for the info. So they do update the rest of the fleet. The metal pinion bugs me to no end.
Also, I guess the aluminium gearbox serves its purpose now so we can use Mini-Z differential easily because of the bearing size.
@@BeaversHobby I used the older K9 on an event with kids running them all day long on asphalt and there were small pebbles going into the diffs from the holes on top of the diff cover, wearing the drive gears faster, so I am thinking maybe the metal drive gears will kill the diff gears? It will show in the long run!
@@MiniRacersRC Sand, dirt and grimes are gear killer. When combine those with metal gear going to plastic it will break the plastic part even faster. Close the holes with putty might help.
@@BeaversHobby I need to close them some how, this idea you said sounds nice. The only place is hard for this is the back where the alen ball thingy goes in but maybe there I can protect it another way but this should completely prevent pebbles from going in!
Wish they fixed the front suspension lower and made aluminum parts that actually fit
Is it possible to change the servo connector to the ecs to a regular size connector in order to upgrade the escalator? Or is there an adaptor I could buy? Many thanks. Your videos have been a great help with my k969.
Yes, you can. It's a standard 3 wire.
You can cut the wire and solder it with the plug you want, JR or JST-ZH.
Thanks for responding, excellent! Thanks again!
Years ago your favorite micro drift was xrx dap has that changed what's best MA looks good?
XRX is still great to this day in terms of driving. The long-term durability is not looking so good though. The screw holes started strip a while back and it needs aluminium or metal upgrade to maintain the durability.
MA is amazing. It's easy to build, tune and drive. The points against it being 1. expensive (but it's all aluminium so it's like you buy a fully upgraded car), 2. availability is poor and it's pretty hard to find.
Maybe some electrical tape around one-way differential could make the new bearing fit?
The new bearing is smaller than the oneway so no, it won't fit.
@@BeaversHobby Okay, what gears for RWD drift gearing would you recommend on these updated models? Will keep stock motor for super budget build.
Was thinking about getting the 284161 and add DUMBORC Gyro G03 along with resin 3d printed rims + the Kyosho drift tires you've recommended.
Do you think the longer drive shafts of the 284161 will be a problem for wide angle? I know they need custom 3d printed adapters to properly mount the drift rims without play.
The 284161 has heatsink and lightbar that's why I was interested in that model, is there a risk of it being too wide to properly drift?.
@@driacon For stock motor and RWD try 15T on the motor. The gear is included in the kit so no need to buy an extra one.
As for the gyro Dumbo G03 should be alright. Personally I'd get the GT55 V5 or AFRC GYS-2 V4 because they are the same price but smaller.
The 284161 has shafts that are long at the end to fit the large wheels so you'll need custom wheels for it to fit. Otherwise, just get the standard CVD so you can use standard Mini-Z AWD wheels. It's wide because the wheels are wide and that will look pretty weird on a car body.
Nice vid! Could you perhaps do one on the Wltoys 284161 1/28 buggy? I am looking to mod that, but since it seems a bit different to the others I have no idea what I can do with it...
It's based on the same chassis but with longer drive shaft on the wheels to accommodate bigger wheels. That's pretty much it. I think it's best to keep it stock. If the differentials are too loose, open them up and fill with gear diff grease (Kyosho has some) to increase the tension and it'll drive great.
If you want to install new electronics, it's the same as K989. Except now that it has metal motor gear and you'll have to use a pliers to crush it to take the motor out.
@@BeaversHobby Ah alright, thanks for the tips. I was looking to possibly do a custom shell, but I don't know if that'll be as easy.
Hi Beaver, planning to buy this new model but I would like to play this car as a basic drifter. I know this is more of a touring car. So my question:
1) Do I just change the diff into lock diff (both front and back) and it should be able to drift easier?
2) Will the diff for K969/k989 works in this model?
Pls suggest me some basic upgrade to make this car driftable.
Thanks for your reply 😊
1. Yes, it will drift easier with locked diff. You don't have to buy locked diff either, just open the original ones up and put a piece of paper in to block the gears or glue them then you'll have lock diffs.
2. Unfortunately, no. They also updated to diff to have smaller bearing diameter.
If you want to upgrade it, first get some good drift tyres with Mini-Z wheels. The diff upgrade to front one way will require the gearbox replacement so it accepts 6x10x3mm bearings. If the old gearbox is still available then it's good. Otherwise you will have to get the aluminium gearbox. Just the front will be enough. The rear can use the original with locked diff.
@@BeaversHobby Many thanks for your swift reply brother! Waiting for your new video upgrades on this new model! ☺️
Thank you for you Video Beaver... if you need to choose one brushless and ESC for this wone, which one'd you go for? ideally from Aliexpress. Thank you in advance.
Take a look at DasMikro V3.It's the best budget brushless ESC. It's on GT55 too. www.gt55racing.com/products/nb4-rx-integrated-micro-brushless-18a-esc?DIST=RUZBGw%3D%3D
Another option is this kit from BYRC. Hopefully it's still the PN V2/Hobbywing if you buy it. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002919336408.html
I purchased this car because of your review! Do you know if Mini-z bodies will fit on this? Do they share the same 98mm wheel base?
Yes, some Mini-Z 98mm bodies fit on this. This is still the same as K989 so the front shocks are too high for some bodies and you might need some modifications. Here's the tutorial for lowering the front shocks. ruclips.net/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/видео.html
Here's the list of compatible bodies with recommended offset and modifications. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY
@@BeaversHobby This is awesome. Thank you!!
Hi there! I noticed that if the wheels are slightly tightened, the transmission starts to rotate worse. Shouldn't we add washers between the wheel and the axle so that it turns more freely? And what moment is it worth tightening the wheels?
You don't need to tighten the wheel fully. Just tight enough so it doesn't wobble and loose enough so it can spin freely. You can add the washers if the wheel wobbles even when it's fully tighten.
Hello, and thank you for creating this video! I have this car and the metal center drive shaft pinion mesh is too tight against the rear diff ring gear. Do you have any ideas on how that could be fixed?
You can file the back of the diff so it leaves a bit more space.
You can follow all the diagnostics and fixes here too. ruclips.net/video/TnhriaSSfSA/видео.html They are essentially the same car with the differences I pointed out in this video.
@@BeaversHobbyThanks!
Hey! I ordered the buggy version of this car, and I noticed that when turning, it seems to lower the throttle. None of my older 1/28th WLtoys models do this. I contacted them and they said its normal. Does this version do that as well?
It doesn't lower the throttle on this version so I suspect the big wheels might have done something to the buggy/monster truck version. Check if there's any rubbing while you are turning and also if the wheels can still spin smoothly at the CV joints (dogbones) while turning. Sticky CV joints can lower the power output too.
going to get the buggy and the truck for me and the daughter have the 969 in shambles right now doing a rwd conversion now my question is will i have troubles playing together with them in the same area?
There won't be any problem. You can run many cars together all at once. Just turn them on and connect the transmitter one car at a time.
@@BeaversHobby sweet thanks
@@thegaminggemini317 My pleasure.
What's the extra receiver led port on the 284010? Any ideas?
They are the same output as another LED. You can plug extra thing in there like another set of LED or a transponder.
I'm glad they finally fixed the sticky drive train. That used to overheat my motor so much before I found your videos how to fix that (thank you). I hear this new car is hard to steer when driving fast? Thanks for showing the comparison with the truck. Do you have a Discord? Its a great platform for chatting, posting pictures and discussing anything.
I feel like the handling is still the same. The working diffs might be a factor why it's harder to steer though. Normally we need front locked/spool or very tight front diff for touring.
I'm in a Discord group Small drifter 24. I don't use Discord that much.
Thanks for you reply, you know the output? I have a micro camera I want to install.
It's a pass through so whatever your battery voltage is, that's the output (with a bit of drop).
Hello, great video! I have the old JJRC q35 and I’m trying to get it working properly; everything turns on and works for a few seconds and then the motor stops responding…the steering stays working but no throttle, but if I unplug and then reconnect battery, it will work for a few seconds. Any ideas?
This sounds like the low voltage cutoff kicks in. Check if the battery are still in working condition, ie. if the voltage is not lower than 6V when the throttle stops working. If the voltage is higher than that like 7V or more then the 2-in-1 unit or the ESC unit is faulty. In this case you will need to replace that 2-in-1 unit providing it's still available. Another way is to upgrade it by replacing the 2-in-1 with a proper ESC and upgrade the transmitter. Here's the tutorial. ruclips.net/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Man you were spot on! And I should have known better considering I have been in the hobby for 20 years😂
The voltage was correct with a multimeter but as soon as a load was put on it, it immediately dropped. Thanks for your reply
@@jasonbaldridge4281 My pleasure. Some times we do forget the simplest thing.
Do you think the new transmitter will work with the old k969? Because I’m experiencing transmitter problems it won’t connect to the car even though it is brand new. Should I get the new transmitter?
Which version of the K969 do you have. At some point there were update with the new all-in-one unit and it came with the black transmitter you see at 2:54. If it's that one then yes, this new transmitter will work. Otherwise if you have the flaming one then no.
@@BeaversHobbyBecause I have the flaming controller, do you recommend I buy the new k989 and put the receiver into the old 69 so I can use the new transmitter or is there a better way to upgrade the old k969s transmitter and or receiver.
@@Stoney69999 Upgrading the transmitter and electronics is a better way. You can get a much better transmitter that offers better controls, adjustability and it is a base for expanding your collection should you want to. Because you only need that one transmitter to control all the cars you will have.
Here's the tutorial. ruclips.net/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby cool thank you so much for your information huge huge help. My final question is what should I buy if I want a adjustable wheel base and rwd for 1.24-1.28 scale . I seen you posted a video on a DRZ one that has the adjustable wheel base but it is sold out. Do you know any other rwd adjustable wheel base micro Rc?
@@Stoney69999 DriftArt 3S has the widest range for the wheelbase and width out of the box available right now. DRZ V3 also has the adjustable wheelbase but not width for the rear.
Hello sir I have a question, I have the same rc car it works its fine the only problem that I have with the car that wen it takes a bump into an obstacle it stops working, I need to shut down the car and started again so it can go.
Do u know what the problem can be ?just bought it .hope u can help me
That sounds like a safety feature but it depends on how hard the bump is.
If it's just a light knock and the car stops then there's something wrong. Check if the motor arear has the soldering joint too close to the chassis. If so a light knock can make it short circuit or ground on the chassis. you will have to either re-solder the motor or grind or cut that area of the chassis out. Otherwise it might be a faulty ESC box.
Thank very much sir for helping me out here , I'm going to try to see if those are the problems and u are right wen it bums a little bit harder, thats wen it stops .
Didn't aspect such a quick replay back .
U arevan awesome person.
Can you review 284161.
Not sure if or when but I'll try to get one.
does anyone know the rx protocol for these cars ? would like to bind a new remote to the same 2 in 1 esc.
It's XK X420. (This is in the video, by the way. I even have a time stamp for it.)
It's also supported by 4-in-1 multiprotocol.
Where can I get upgraded plastic parts I have a 969 need a new hub as mine broke a ball on it trying to put on 3d printed parts that did not fit 😂
Aliexpress still has some spares
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003791871316.html
Will a Aoshima 4 door R34 1:24 scale work with the k969 as a body? Please I must know
Not out of the box. You will have to modify it to extend the wheelbase. From my calculaiton it will be around 111mm wheelbase and K969 only goes up to 102mm with the included gear and original chassis plate.
What you need to do is cutting a new chassis plate, extend the length for another 9mm then if you want to retain the AWD then you will need to extend the prop shaft. Don't worry, it's just a 2mm diameter rod so you can probably find that anywhere.
@@BeaversHobby thank youuu🙏🙏🙏
Hi, the K989 what a pinion does it fit in original?
The original pinion is 17T with mod 0.5 pitch and 2mm hole diameter. You can fit 15t or 19T in the bracket then move the motor in or out to adjust the gear mesh. If you need it to support more gear you will have to do some modifications like this. ruclips.net/video/bQiR-cfBnvw/видео.html
I just got a tip to remove the original pinion (the brass one), you'll need to crush it with a pliers to completely destroy it to install a new one.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much, so I understand that the smaller the pinion, the more acceleration the car will have, right? Thank you 🙏🏼
@@NeroDj75 Yes, smaller pinion yields better acceleration but lower top speed.
I need new tires ! will the mini Z wheel-tires work for this thanks !
Yes, they will. Get the AWD wheels. Any Mini-Z AWD compatible wheels will work, PN Racing, GL Racing, DXR even Yeah Racing makes the wheels nowadays. Tyres are the same between AWD and RWD so choose whichever you like. There are other brands too like PN Racing and Marka.
Thank you !@@BeaversHobby
sickk
Very good and interesting video. Can you recomend me a brushless esc, that works good and doesnt need many welding work? Im planning to use It with surpass rockets 1410 motor. By the way It would be good if It is over 20€ - 25€
No uses motores de más de 5000kv sino, te va a ir como el culo. Lo intente con unos de 7500kv y no arrancaba. Ponle una ESC medio en condiciones, sino, te va a pasar igual. Te lo digo por experiencia. Lo suyo sería un motor 2500-3500kv si lo quieres para drift o sino de 5000kv para correr.
@@david9778 Conoces alguna esc barata para motores sin escobillas?
DasMikro V3, PN Racing V2 and Atomic are good.
DasMikro should be on Aliexpress for around 25 EUR.
PN Racing V2 is on Mini-Z Racing Italia for around 29 EUR.
Apart from those, there is the same board as PN Racing V2 floating around Aliexpress for 20 EUR If I'm not mistaken. However I don't know if you will get that exact ESC after buying because these shops often change their contents.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for help us. Can you tell me what is the tool that you used in vídeo to extract the transmision pinion?
@@david9778 It's a gear puller kit like this. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004790203185.html
Mine has "Walkera" helicopter branding but I don't think it would be any different.
Quindi meglio questa o la K989?
Grazie
This one. Unless the K989 is the new batch with the same upgrade inside. To be sure you get the latest update, pick this one.
@@BeaversHobbyio 2 giorni fa ho acquistato la K989 quindi credo sia la versione aggiornata.
@@NeroDj75 Best of luck! I hope you get the updated one.
@@BeaversHobbyI think so, because the electric receiver is different than the first version. because there is a red plug in the output.
Great video 👍 I like the 102mm wheel base so much on my chassis, I’m so glad I opted for the short truck over this one.
The diff cups are really nice, that’s for sure an upgrade, because the older version I can see them bending on mine.
I make videos of my chassis, please check it out if you like
500!