FIXED - No Start - Ignition Switch Housing
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- Dealing with a no-crank no-start concern on a 2008-2012 Ford Escape? This video shows you how to diagnose and repair this common concern.
00:00 The Issue
00:31 Diagnosis
01:25 what's getting fixed
02:04 Removal
03:52 Airbag removal
05:50 Steering wheel removal
09:11 Security bolt removal
10:59 Lock cylinder transfer
12:05 Installation
17:45 Verification
18:16 Conclusion 
Авто/Мото
All the smart people watch Eric O....and Go Tech!
For sure Mark! Eric is a great guy and tech!
~Mike
Excellent info. This gives me complete understanding of what is needed in parts and how to do it. Wonderful job!
You're putting these videos up old school mechanic and this new stuff it's a little weird and this by far is the best video I found thank you keep up the good work
Thanks for your time and teaching us Mike 🙏
Thank you for watching Salvador!
~Mike
Good to see you again Mike. It's always a pleasure to learn from you. "Big nasty" Funny.
Hey man, good to hear from you! Hope all is well :)
~Mike
Never seen this done before. Great tutorial!
Thanks man! Hope all is well!
~Mike
Air hammer solves so many headaches in like 2 secs. It can also destroy but air hammer technique is everything. Well done!
Very true!
Air hammer is a great tool, just don't pick it up when your too frustrated! lol.
I have made that mistake before!
Glad you liked the video!
~Ryan Wilsing
If your looking for a cheap alternative to this issue just remove your cylinder lock and wrap the tail end of it a couple of times with electric tape. It removes the excessive wear in casting and cures your no start issue.
Great to see you Mike😍
Thanks for sharing the process & a cool tip to remove these bolts👍
Looking forward to more interesting videos😍
BTW that car has very cool paint, I never knew Ford was offering this color option as well😉
Stay Safe Bro👍
Thank u for the video. As always, I learned something from you and your knowledge. Greetings from San Diego CA
Hey Joseph, thanks for watching! Greetings from Wisconsin :)
~Mike
Hello Mike,
Thank you for the tip on using the air hammer on the security bolt. That looks to be a substantial time saver versus grinding a slot in the top for a screwdriver.
Best wishes to you and the family!
Hey Dave, thanks for watching! Yeh it is for sure!
~Mike
Great walk through, this really helped. Thank you.
Appreciate and enjoy this nice demo. For me releasing the spring clips with the Allen key would be a tricky part. Thanks👍.
Definitely Tricky, I have done quite a few of them and still struggle with that step!
Thanks for watching!
~Ryan Wilsing
Excellent tutorial!
Fairly straightforward job. Not nearly as complex as 70s Vette with tilt and telescoping wheel R and R to tighten up the 4 tilt bolts. Thanks Mike. By the way Eric O did one similar not too long ago on a Fomoco. Don't remember if he used Big Nasty on it or not.
Hi Terry,
I agree! Those older GM's required an engineering degree! lol
Thanks for watching!
~Ryan Wilsing
Thank you Mike.
Thanks for watching OldSchool!
~Mike
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching Russel!
~Mike
Nice easy fix. I had used a small file to cut a slot in the head of the bolt. That worked too.
Hey Mike, thanks for watching! Yeh, that would work well too. I imagine that would take quite a bit longer though.
~Mike
Good work, 👍
Thanks Kirk!
~Mike
Great channel
Hey Scott, thanks a ton!!!
~Mike
Great video. Three best channels GT, SMA, SD 🤘🏻. I’ve seen Eric O slot the breakaway bolts to remove them but he’s more familiar with his cutters and grinders than he is with his wrenches. #RustyPRNY
Hey Lee,
Right on! Thanks for the support!
~Ryan Wilsing
Little Nasty makes an appearance! 😁Big Nasty might have broken the column in half. 🤣
It's sad how just barely 12 years after it left the assembly line, the ignition switch is already done for. Sign of the times! I've got a 30 year old Volvo, and a 37 year old Grand Marquis that each have their original switches. Both well over 200k miles. The Marquis is knocking on 300k miles!! And, the Marquis is still on the original driveline, and original in-tank electric fuel pump! I often wonder how mechanics made a living in those days! 😉
Great stuff as always, Mike. 👍👍
Hey Smitty, hahahahah little nasty! Cars have definitely changed...some things for the better, many for the worst.
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining Well said, brother!
Nice one. When I worked on airbags I put ignition on and then contact battery so I am not in car if someone went wrong. But it has never gone wrong yet🤣
Hey Ian, thanks for watching! Yes, air bags are definitely not something to mess with!
~Mike
thanks gotech very useful
Hello,
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the support!
~Ryan Wilsing
Two tipps for removing the steering wheel.
1) Mark the steering wheel in relation to the shaft, so you set it back on correctly.
2) If the steering wheel does not want to come off, screw the bolt back in a few turns (after you made your alignment marks) so you dont hit your face with the steering wheel once it actually comes off. Similar on how you would remove a stuck wheel, essentially.
Hey Blocki! Been a while since i've seen a comment from you! Those are both great tips! Did you end up with a steering wheel mark on your face? lol!
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining Sup, Mike. Thanks!
Na, not yet. I'm just a DIYer and haven't removed the steering wheel myself yet. Even though I actually had the same problem on my Audi A3 quite some time ago. I should have done it myself, because the Audi technician (yes, I was crazy enough to actually let a dealer work on that) did NOT set it back on straight. Hence tip number 1.
The tip about leaving the bolt in a few turns I got from either Eric O. or ChrisFix (or both).
hahahah live and learn, right! Feel free to reach out if you ever need a hand!
~Mike
Yep, I was told both of these tips years ago, and I've always done both when I've needed to remove a s.wheel. I was yelling at the screen...'make an alignment mark' and 'put the bolt back in a few threads'..lol🤣
Seems Ford have always had dicky ignition switches once they age. I have fixed a few Ford Falcon ignition switches here in Australia over the years without replacing them. It was common for older models that have a Bakelite style switch plate to play up. Most often I've found the switch plate would work itself loose where it was originally crimped into the aluminium lock housing. As long as the switch plate, detent balls and springs hadn't launched themselves out and vanished altogether, it was a simple job of pushing the switch plate back into place and re-staking the aluminium housing for an 'Ivan like' (PHAD) N.P.R repair👍🇦🇺
Sounds like a solid fix Simon! Thanks for watching!
~Mike
Nice one Mike! 👍 I’ve never seen fluorescent green on a Ford Escape,is that a wrap?? 😀
Hey Nick, thanks man! Factory color on this very bright Escape
~Mike
I got the first air hammer Eric O recommend from Astro then they came out with the K model big nasty lol but mine works great and it’s a little shorter for in car stuff
Big Nasty! LOL
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
👍
What’s funny about security bolts is using my finesse pointed punch same as you in my CP 714 air hammer I don’t thinks it takes any more time than if they were regular hex head bolts HA !
Hey Jim, goes SUPER quick, right? Cordless airhammers could be dangerous haha!
~Mike
i have seen a loose key blade cause a similar issue. Pid for start will be on, but relay Pid will show disabled. Then looking at Pats, you will see key not recognized.
Haven't seen it, but thanks for the info!
I'm sure I will get more issues like this!
~Ryan
Grasias
Hi Martin,
Your welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video!
~Ryan Wilsing
Thanks for watching Martin!
~Mike
2012 Ford Escape. The mechanics have now replaced both the ignition housing and the starter. It's still doing the intermittent no start. Don't know what else to try.
Hey Mike how you doing brother I didn't mean to bother you so much but I was just wondering because I'm still in automotive School I go to Lincoln tech and I have like two more months left before I graduate I was just wondering do you have any tips for me I'm having trouble like understanding why a diagrams and how to read those symbols so I was just wondering what is your best thoughts on trying to understand them
Hey Antwon,
Check out our video on reading and understanding wiring diagrams. (ruclips.net/video/h3FsEV49CvM/видео.html). I think it may help you with understanding the symbols and layouts much better.
Thank you for reaching out!
~Ryan Wilsing
Hey Mike thanks for the video I'm starting to get a grip on how it operates I just need to practice on it and watch more videos and try to understand but other than that I'm starting to get a hang of it a little bit so I appreciate it man
I always advise customers to remove all unnecessary keys from their car key ring. The extra weight of all those keys plays a negative roll on the wear and tear of the internals of the ignition system.
Hi! I have a strange one... No engine light, rough idle(only cold), goes away after 15-20min, at cold starts it smells fuel from exhaust(lacks power), it can not complete driving cycles and doesn´t pass emissions tests. And when cold on an on ramp to a highway at constant throttle(75%) it hesitate and drop power and gains it and drops it and gains it and drops it(jerks) Renault Clio tce 90 2018. Any idea?
Ohhhh does sound like an interesting one for sure! I would start by looking at the fuel trims. See what they are as soon as the vehicle enters closed loop and then again when warm.
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining It´s stuck(warm and cold) at cl and goes on the 02 sensor. Short term fuel trim is normal butt long term is high(4,7)
All the simptons show a faulty electrical swith, but the internal plastic gets broken i wish you showed by removing the electrical part. Thanks
👋👍
Thanks for watching Drew!
~Mike
😊
Good Evening ⏰️ 21.19pm
Happy Wrenching
My teacher
KNOWLEDGEABLE Go Tech Mike Becker
Tutorial Outstanding video amazing footage thank you very much for sharing it. Take care and have a great Evening with all your family around you
KNOWLEDGEABLE Go Tech Mike Becker
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Hey Nick, hope you're having a nice evening! Thanks for watching!
~Mike
Dremel works wonders without ripping everything away.
I always use a 8/1.25 / 0.5 bolt instead of the $4.88 + tax ,no body steals a ford product anymore and if they did ,it would broke down rigth at the corner LOL
Hahahah I know a lot of people chose not to replace that bolt!
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining Guilty as charge SR
Customer has a excessive amount of keys on the bunch, it's the cause of the tumble going bad🛠🛑💡
Lol security feature the car thefts in Houston have it gone in 2mins 😂
its bad enough to have to deal with the metric system but to now have 21.5mm 22.5mm and 5.5 mm i guess we need to come out with a american and all be 64th in
Ahhh yeh, half sizes are fun! lol
~Mike
Simple enough to do without removing the wheel or bag. Probably cuts the labor in half
Hi Mike,
Never attempted to do it that way, I'll have to look into that
Thanks for watching and reaching out!
~Ryan Wilsing
Fell asleep on this video
Eric O's big nasty.
i call it a stupid idea
Some would agree i'm sure!
~Mike
I just did 2 Falcon's here in OZ n the lock housing is bonded to the steering column there is a repair kit for the switch assy which I have used before dozens of times cuz it's a very common problem but these 2 had the intermediate shaft between the switch n barrel broken so had to replace the whole steering column in both cases.
Hey Greg,
Wow, that seems like a big task!
Sounds like your the right man for the job
~Ryan Wilsing