Only came across your channel lately Peter, and I must congratulate on some of the best, down to earth & real life techniques that are required in "normal" garages. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you very much Michael 🙏🙏 As you probably well know this trade can be tough & expensive, so anything we can do to make it that little bit easier is going to help. I do appreciate you time in watching & commenting. Chat soon 😉🙏🙏🙏
Another fantastic tutorial Peter some great work around there. Brilliant idea on getting that stretchy belt on. Every time I do a timing belt I have that mental drumroll before I turn the KEY😂
Another good one Peter. I haven’t done one of these yet either so your saving me loads of time as I can just follow this when I do. Your right about a little anxiety when first turning the key mate 😆😆Thanks again
It’s handy to see it being done beforehand, it takes a little bit of the unknown out of it. We all get that same feeling on first turn of the key 😂😂😂 Part of the job, thanks Trevor 🙏🙏👍
That first turn of the key is always worrying for me too, even after turning over by hand first. I've never done one of those belts. Thanks for the video
Great video, deffo happy to tackle one of these now after the informative video. E3 technical was saying to remove cam pulleys but I see no point to it after watching your vid.
Great video. All other videos and manuals say you have to take the phasers off. Seems there is enough room without having to. My 1.2 208 is due a change in 20K miles.
Good video Peter, didn't look too bad but then you are used to doing that stuff and probably harder stuff too! Thanks for the video though, a nice watch.
Fair play to ya man. You use every day tools to get the job done. Every other video I looked up on this lads were buying the timing tools. Sure it’s not feasible as I might never do another one. Great videos.
I’m in the exact same boat, I could spend endless amounts of money on specialist tools if I wanted to. A little bit of common sense and the job is a gooden 😊😊
Thank you posting this AWESOME video, very helpful and you managed to get it done in 5 hours,which is amazing,,,i think it took me 6 hours to just get the Manifold off !! 🙂
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thank you for your encouraging words,i think you made it look far too easy, the serpentine belt had no adjuster,or the other water pump one either,the timing belt had lost about 12 teeth,by some miracle it didn't wreck the engine,managed to eventually get it all together,i think the same time as the elephants gestation period, was glad to see the back of it to be fair! these PSA engines are Horrible little contraptions,why people buy these monstrosities is beyond me. 🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 i think the general Public need to be made fully aware of the 'inner workings' of their 'NEW BRAINCHILD INVENTIONS' before these awful car's hit the showrooms, to see what's in store a few years down the road, that way, manufactures had better get their act together, were the 1's who pay the price for them getting it wrong in their crappy designs. What was wrong with simple Ford cross flow designs of the 60's (Cortina 1600E etc) 20 mins to drop gearbox out, 30 mins to do full service, less than 30 mins max to drop engine out etc! not that we needed to do that often. now we spend ages scratching our heads to source special tools,and know how, just plain Barmy money making racket!🤔
I have the same car mine has done 60k bought it when it had done 50k no indication that belt has been changed , can see the belt through the oil fill area ,mine looks ok , will keep an eye on it though , really good replacement video !!
Should a shove come to a push and my back was against the wall. After watching your work. I would give it a go on my Pug 2008. Thanks for sharing. See you in the next one. 👍👍
If the belt is like the one you removed - gear side face with small missing parts, I strongly recommend to take a look at the oil pump strainer, cause this small parts of the belt will be there reducing the oil flow.
Ive git one next week., 60k on the clock , oil light flashed on last nught on his way home , told him not to drive it , modern day shite Peter , well done on doing a video of the job 👏 👍
Hey Mike, the belt itself is actually a really handy job. I didn’t feel the need to remove the oil pan/sump in my case so don’t know how awkward that is, but hopefully not too bad. The best of luck with it Mike 🤞🤞
Well I suppose if you were a Wet timing belt and someone put in the wrong oil which made you break prematurely 😬😬 That is how you’d feel 😂😂😂 Maybe in the next life🙂 Thanks Bastogne 🙏🙏
Good job , good vid, proper mechanic not a main dealer tech, im an old timer worked on every type of engine you could think of,, bit strange that crank gear.
You deserve more than than a thumbs up, that was the best talk through I’ve seen on RUclips. Well done. I’ve just brought the new Jeep Avenger 1.2 100hp turbo which I believe use’s the same engine. Question 1 when the new Jeep arrives I was thinking of installing a RaceChip increasing the hp 128, in your opinion is the little engine and gearbox strong enough to take the extra hp? Thank you.
Thank you so much & I delighted you enjoyed my video 🙏🙏🙏 Yes, absolutely. They are quite a good little engine & by all means chip it. A bit more power never does any harm 💪💪
Good job buddy not done one of these in a while used to do quite a few of them the turbo and non turbo versions only because the belt had broke up and blocked the strainer causing oil pressure issues i actually purchased the timing tool after the 5th one and never used it for another year bloody typical😅😅
I recently fitted a sump on a vw up and had an utter nightmare getting at the bolts at the gearbox end struggled off and on with it then was clearing out my garage at home that night ready for moving house and Jesus what should I find but the exact sockets I needed which was infuriating lolll
@@kennedysgarage3281 😃 well, funny enough you really did help me today Peter and I'm very grateful for you taking the time to make that video. My mrs has a C1 with the Puretech engine, 80k miles on it, original belt. I finished it today and yes I was bricking it when I turned the key. But thankfully all is spot on. I did plan on changing the coolant but the bottom hose is pretty well stuck on. I'll come back to that part lol. So, thanks again mate, all good thanks to your assistance 👍
Great job. Did you drop the sump and check the oil pick up pipe? I believe that they get clogged up with rubber particles from the degrading belt, resulting in low oil pressure and BOOM! one dead engine. I would not have bought mine if I knew about the wet belt beforehand.
I didn’t drop the sump on this vehicle as I didn’t feel the timing was after degrading enough to deem it necessary. But it does happen so it is something you need to watch out for 😉🙏🙏
I think it's fair to say your not a good mechanic, your a great mechanic. You made that look easy mate, not sure I like the idea of having wet belt though 😮 I've wedged a piece of wood between cam shaft pullies before 😅, can't get it wrong if you mark it all up first
I’m not too fond of the wet belt design either, but I must say that I was impressed with this design. It is a great time saver compared to the Ford wet belts. And thank you very much for the compliment Phil, I’m smiling away here 😊😊😊👍
I must admit, it did look quite easy, not having to remove the engine mount, and no water pump to replace either, keep the video coming, there's a few good mechanics I watch on here, it's great seeing the different ways people adapt and overcome situations, helps us all learn new techniques 👍 I encourage you to watch : Chris Allan - "Professional struggler" : Salvage Rebuilds UK : O'Rileys Autos - Mobile Mechanic & DPF Cleaning All 3 channels put out great honest content like yourself, give them a watch if you get chance 👍
@@philphil3707 Chris Allen ‘ professional struggler’ is the only one I’m not subscribed to but some great content on O Reilly’s & Salvage builders. I must check him out & thanks for that 🙏🙏🙏
Please check him out, he's a fantastic much like yourself, but works on HGVS, he shows us all the real world struggles of being a mechanic, and the genuine errors which we all make, and thibgs we overlook, but also, is a good problem solver
Very good video. Unfortunately the PureTech engine has too many design flaws. Mine gave up via the belt and oil leaks at 105,000 km. Sad to see that customer services (Peugeot for me) are not at all up to scratch and find every excuse not to participate in the cost of repairs.
Please give me some advice, the service center told me that I need to replace the belt, since 6 years have already passed, but I doubt whether this should be done now? I bought a car in 2018, in 6 years I drove 30,000 km (Citroen c4 Cactus Puretech 82)
Unfortunately the owner didn’t know the service history, but the timing belt was in quite good condition for the mileage. So I would assume it had been replaced around 100,000kms 🤔🤔
maybe i have missed the comment but when the belt is changed, should the sump not also be removed to check oil strainer for particles from the previous belt and not just change out the belt ?
For me direction on every job is dictated by the evidence throughout the repair process & in this cause I feel that the belt hadn’t deteriorated enough to deem sump removal necessary. But each and every job can be different, so do what you feel is best 😉👍👍
The timing belt in this case hadn’t deteriorated which was evidence enough for me to not feel I needed to remove the sump. But you are right it does quite often need to be done 👍 👍👍
Yes, it has quite a good service history & nothing is left on the long finger. I done this job around 4 weeks ago and the clutch failed only 2 weeks after ( release bearing went through the pressure plate 😬😬 ) Still you’d panic when that break down call comes 😂😂
Good one pete. Much better than ford lol. I remember the the pugeot 106 and others with the same style flywheel tdc, locking pin . Pugeot really do like there there floating crank gear lol chers 🍺
Sorry to ask a stupid question: is the crank locking pin actually holding the crank in place when you undo the crank bolt, and is it intended to be able to do that? (Or does it just provide a reference point?) Thanks.
Unless you leave it in gear and chock the brake pedal it's the only thing holding the crank in place, it's a 16mm steel pin so I guess it was designed to cope with the force needed to get the crank bolt out
Yes Mark, the flywheel locking pin is as Andy says for locking the crankshaft in place. It is actually a easy enough timing belt to do. Very straight forward 😉👍👍👍
There's no need to take the take the coolant lines and battery out, when's ive done a wet belt, i drop the engine mount and the inlet manifold will slide out no problem
dear. great review sure i had an opel crossland x 2020 1.2 turbo .i had same problems at first top up oil level message then engine fault then stop the car message until 77000km .psa engine in egypt decided to replace the engine in warranty by new engine they get it and now they replace it.does psa changed the old belt with new one differ in its mateial to prevent all that law pressure problem? i want to know .i read that they made a new version v3 . is that true thanks
They did upgrade the belt design but I believe that a timing belt & engine oil just shouldn’t be mixed. People might say different but the evidence is that it just doesn’t work. But with a new belt fitted it will last for years, also buy the OE oil from the dealership and keep the receipts for warranty if ever needed. The very best of luck with the new engine & happy new year 🙏🙏🙏
The one you cannot see the both camshafts with the rocker cover off. The tool is cheap from laser amazon couldn’t imagine trying without them there’s no point they clip in on end of cams pin in crank and rip it apart chuck it together no messing about trying to mark it up🤙
Have you ever come across a belt slipping a tooth on these engines, Citroen mechanic said this could be the fault on my c3 1.0. Still runs but slow acceleration until 2200 revs then picks up okay. No fault codes and have changed the cat
Hi Dan, I haven’t ever come across this but if your mechanic could look at Cam & Crank synchronisation PID on his scantool he should know pretty fast 🤞🤞
Great video, did one myself last week. Terrible engine design. Lot of work for simple belt change. Why did you cut the exhaust? In took it off from the turbo, just four bolts and a heatshield (and lambda out)
I didn’t cut the exhaust on this Citroen but I’m assuming you might be talking about the Focus Ecoboost timing belt I had cut 🤔🤔 Where the exhaust joins around the steering rack area was welded prior and I didn’t want the challenge of that, so just made my life easier and cut then re-welded it nice and neatly. This business is a moving beast. The Citroen is a far easier job, so well done on your one 💪💪💪
Hi I have the same car throwing a code P000A Camshaft slow response bank 1 I’m gonna change the cam and VVT solenoid the timing is bang on belt is new double checked the timing with locking tools soo? What do you reckon thanks
Hi peter. Have a couple of Customers with 208 3cylinder engines in them can you tell me please what's the actual service interval on those belts as I've yet touch one
Hey Colm! Stellantis indicates that you should replace the belt every 6 years or every 100,000 km / 62137 miles. Usually this has to be done earlier, because the belt is too weak for that. First it was 10 years or 175,000 km / 108739 miles .
Hi I've just done a full rebuild as it also blew a piston 😢 and now I have a fule pressure sensor issue Did you suffer the same ( but you didn't do a ful engine rebuild )
Jobs a goodun 👍 the original belt looked in good shape for the mileage but better to be safe than sorry. Have you ever done a timing belt on a vag cjzc engine? I’m on the fence about replacing it as the procedure says the camshaft timing angle has to be checked and adjusted if not in the tolerance which involves an expensive supa dupa kit and software but have seen people do them without?
I haven’t had the pleasure of doing one of those yet. But I suppose it is going to happen soon enough. Isn’t it awful the way the over complicate it and make experienced technicians be slightly scared of the job incase something goes wrong 😤😤
@@kennedysgarage3281 my biggest concerns would be lumpy idle worse case or poorer fuel economy/increased emissions. Seen videos of them done without it and also seen videos of them done without it and in a dealership having to be adjusted because there running rough. The owner is phoning the dealers tomorrow to get a price so I will report back 👍 I’ve advised her to get the water pump/housing and toothed belt replaced also it’s quite a weird engine with it being gearbox end. The procedure is fascinating to watch but I always thought it was Renaults job to re-invent the wheel 🤔😂
@THEGREENBEAR1723 I have replaced the water pump & belt up over the gearbox, due to them leaking. I have also also had to re-time a 2016 Seat Leon with a standard locking kit due to a small misfire at around 2500 rpm but I cannot remember the engine code or if it is the same engine type 🤔🤔
wow great job and is this the genuine first belt? Because if I heard correctly it has 180000km which is too much for this belt thanks in advance cheers
I actually don’t know the history of this vehicle, but one of my colleagues serviced it and advised the owner that it needed a timing belt replacement. I was just the unlucky one to get the job. But you are correct it was in a good state of repair if it was the original, but possibly not 🤔🤔
I cannot remember, but it would most likely tighten the crank bolt by hand tool with the pin in place. Generally the flywheel is a good strong point to hold crankshafts
@@kennedysgarage3281 Well mate guess what the fault code relates to bad rail Pressure sensor i changed that car still Thr same starts idles and dies then i charged battery overnight it was dead same result then i decided last go at the car 🤣 i unplugged the front o2 sensor on the cat the car euns drives like a dream my question is can a bad 02 cause car to run rough and die Cause it drives great with that unolugged fron the electrical plug thanks
@@Peter-sm8bj yes Peter, if the 02 sensor fail rich or lean it would run like a pig. Do you have a scantool ?? You should be able to look at what it is doing on live data 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 I ordered a sensor mate as soon as i plug the catalytic converter 02 sensor back in can starts and hunts then dies I unplug it car drives perfect I have a autel scantool with live data but i have no clue what all the readings mean mate 👍
I show the mileage in the video 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ This vehicle has 182,000 kms, I recommend watching the whole of my videos to see the mileage’s. Hopefully this helps you 👍👍
Good luck with the belt, it's rolling into hot oil. We had a warranty but Stelantis doesn't give the warranty to it. Its unreliable.. Some have problems at 40k km's. Some at 80 and some at 120. Due to the books it says around 160k km's or so it needs to be replaced. All been done by the dealer.
Not too many people like any wet belt engines. But the belt is really easy to replace compared to others. So replace the belt relatively regularly and it should be a great little engine 😉👍👍
I’m ashamed to call myself an Engineer after seeing this wet belt design. The belt material (hydrogenated nitrile for chemical resistance, and glass filled nylon for added strength) is typically great in all oils, chemically very good! Temps good for 150c The problem is the surface finish, the rubber likes smooth surface finishes to be run on, and it doesn’t like metal shards being compressed into it!! I work in the oil and gas sector, and we have seen this occur in our own tools. Silly design.
I guess these things have to be tested on normal everyday items to prove the test over time. I’m doing a wet belt on a 2021 Mondeo next week, the Eco blue engine and Ford seem to have made it a lot easier to renew. Thank goodness 🙏🙏
@Kennedy’s garage i watched a RUclips video made by the company that were commissioned to design and make the wet belt for ford. They show in the video how they swell with age and the cause of the failure.
It was changed 5 days earlier on a service when we told him to do the timing belt. No oil related issues & I believe the belt hadn’t deteriorated enough to cause any further problems 😉👍👍👍
🤷🏼♂️ I don’t do too much setting up, so filming doesn’t add too much time. 8 hours was just a guide time that the dealer said. The time may be smaller on Autodata or Alldata 🤔🤔🤔👍
Someone else mentioned that, I must look at the video again because from memory I thought the belt was in very good condition 🤔🤔 I normally would if I thought it was needed but I didn’t in this case, with no oil related issues 🤞🤞
This vehicle was serviced only 1 week earlier, when I recommended it got a timing belt. As for the oil strainer, I felt that the belt hadn’t degraded enough to deem it necessary to be cleaned. I might get to show it on the next one 🤞🤞 I’m at a Ford eco boost belt just today 😂😂
Done shitloads of them on the transit ecoblu engines there infamous done a few engine rebuilds and full exchanges due to total failure of the belt not a clever idea tbh
Citeron had to replace the engine on 24000 miles C4 cactus rip curl even service on Feb then April new engine? Nearly five grand. Free? Common fault on pure tech engine.
@@kennedysgarage3281 because it was a defect in timing belt the engine are great but I asked the citeron garage is there a defect not on your car? But there was so it was replaced free even when it was serviced?
I am a state-certified automotive mechatronics technician. Such a senseless construction: a timing belt that runs in the engine oil. The bill of exchange costs about 2,500 €. A Finn blew up his Tesla. That's what you should have with such cars, these such a timing belt in an oil bath 🙈😡😡😡
On these PSA engines it is a relatively easy job compared to the awful 1.0 Ford eco boost engines. These one take around as long as a normal belt to replace, but the Ford one could take up to 12 hours. That is a real pain in comparison, but you are correct whoever thought up of this belt system should be fired 🤷🏼♂️😂😂😂 Thanks mate 🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 this one is "worse" as this thing is to the point that the oil lamp is on. pmmonline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/OESAA-Hub-Fig-3-21.jpg
My belt is deteriorating and the garage said they'll empty the oil sump, but what else could potentially be damaged from the belt deteriorating? I want to check that they've looked at everything before driving it away to avoid any future issues
@@lewdar_ the problem is that you will be running with low oil pressure for a logn time before the light blinks/come on. this also damage the oil pump and can damage the vacuum pump if your car have one. and the low oil pressere will damage the bearings, pistons etc. this will up the oil consumption as things start to were down.
It is recommended to be replaced at 165,000 but has a whole load of red warnings about premature failure 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ Better to do it earlier rather than later 😉👍👍
Interesting Pete! I have a Fiesta ‘S’ Ecoboost 1.0(Australia) mine has 97,000Kms on the odo.Not due until 240,000Kms or 10 years(2025) not sure when I will get it replaced.Always get my oil changed @ least(or try) twice a year.Oil & filters are cheap, a blown motor is not.What is your experience on longevity of these little 1.0 Ecoboost motors?Cheer.👍👍🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘
The seem to be failing very prematurely, so much so that they call them the ecoboom engine. Their was 140,000kms on the one I done & it had signs of bad deterioration.
@@kennedysgarage3281 doubt mine will ever get to 140,000kms! It is only a runabout car, not our main vehicle.Maybe there is ‘hope’ for mine yet!.Thx for the feedback Pete.👍👍🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘🦘
Only came across your channel lately Peter, and I must congratulate on some of the best, down to earth & real life techniques that are required in "normal" garages. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you very much Michael 🙏🙏
As you probably well know this trade can be tough & expensive, so anything we can do to make it that little bit easier is going to help.
I do appreciate you time in watching & commenting. Chat soon 😉🙏🙏🙏
Hats off to you pete, old school confidence and smarts applied to new school problems, you are a skilled tradesman no doubt.
Thank you for the compliment Glen, but I’m only in the same boat as all the rest of us. Most techs try their best everyday 🙏🙏👍
Another fantastic tutorial Peter some great work around there. Brilliant idea on getting that stretchy belt on. Every time I do a timing belt I have that mental drumroll before I turn the KEY😂
That scary couple of seconds beforehand 😂😂😂
We all feel the same, at least it isn’t only me 😊😊
Another good one Peter. I haven’t done one of these yet either so your saving me loads of time as I can just follow this when I do. Your right about a little anxiety when first turning the key mate 😆😆Thanks again
It’s handy to see it being done beforehand, it takes a little bit of the unknown out of it.
We all get that same feeling on first turn of the key 😂😂😂
Part of the job, thanks Trevor 🙏🙏👍
That first turn of the key is always worrying for me too, even after turning over by hand first. I've never done one of those belts. Thanks for the video
That moment when the heart beats a little bit fast Matt 😂😂
It is a well designed engine & handy enough to change, which is unusual nowadays 👍👍
That way you put on the Water pump belt is outright genius
I can’t even remember how I done it but thank you very much 🙏🙏🙏
ANOTHER 5 STAR video of a job in real life - thanks for taking the time to video & posting
Thank you very much Colin, I really appreciate that 😉🙏🙏🙏
Brilliant stuff Peter. That worked out great.
It’s a very workable design in this engine type Michael which is unusual nowadays, so fair play to the designers 👏👏
Great video, deffo happy to tackle one of these now after the informative video. E3 technical was saying to remove cam pulleys but I see no point to it after watching your vid.
I didn’t see any need to do that anyway. Quite a fast easy job, so good luck with the repair 🤞🤞
Great video.
All other videos and manuals say you have to take the phasers off. Seems there is enough room without having to.
My 1.2 208 is due a change in 20K miles.
There are actually relatively easy to do, good luck with your one when doing it 🤞🤞🤞🤞👍
Good video Peter, didn't look too bad but then you are used to doing that stuff and probably harder stuff too! Thanks for the video though, a nice watch.
They are actually handy enough Mike, definitely not one to be too worried about doing 👍👍🙏
Fair play to ya man. You use every day tools to get the job done. Every other video I looked up on this lads were buying the timing tools. Sure it’s not feasible as I might never do another one. Great videos.
I’m in the exact same boat, I could spend endless amounts of money on specialist tools if I wanted to. A little bit of common sense and the job is a gooden 😊😊
@@kennedysgarage3281 well I just finished that 3008. Thanks for the help!
@@markflynn7900 well done Mark 💪💪
Thank you posting this AWESOME video, very helpful and you managed to get it done in 5 hours,which is amazing,,,i think it took me 6 hours to just get the Manifold off !! 🙂
Hey Solly, the time doesn’t really matter. If you got the job done you done brilliantly 💪💪💪
Well done mate 👏👏
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thank you for your encouraging words,i think you made it look far too easy, the serpentine belt had no adjuster,or the other water pump one either,the timing belt had lost about 12 teeth,by some miracle it didn't wreck the engine,managed to eventually get it all together,i think the same time as the elephants gestation period, was glad to see the back of it to be fair! these PSA engines are Horrible little contraptions,why people buy these monstrosities is beyond me. 🤔
@@sollykhan2385 I think most of the public don’t know how bad they can sometimes be until they go wrong 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 i think the general Public need to be made fully aware of the 'inner workings' of their 'NEW BRAINCHILD INVENTIONS' before these awful car's hit the showrooms, to see what's in store a few years down the road, that way, manufactures had better get their act together, were the 1's who pay the price for them getting it wrong in their crappy designs. What was wrong with simple Ford cross flow designs of the 60's (Cortina 1600E etc) 20 mins to drop gearbox out, 30 mins to do full service, less than 30 mins max to drop engine out etc! not that we needed to do that often. now we spend ages scratching our heads to source special tools,and know how, just plain Barmy money making racket!🤔
I have the same car mine has done 60k bought it when it had done 50k no indication that belt has been changed , can see the belt through the oil fill area ,mine looks ok , will keep an eye on it though , really good replacement video !!
Thank you Jack hopefully it helps someday 🤞🙏🙏🙏
Would advise you get it done. Ours is only 3 years old with just over 50k and we broke down with oil pressure fault due to the belt
Should a shove come to a push and my back was against the wall. After watching your work. I would give it a go on my Pug 2008. Thanks for sharing. See you in the next one. 👍👍
Handy enough job Norman it would be no bother to you 💪💪💪🙏
If the belt is like the one you removed - gear side face with small missing parts, I strongly recommend to take a look at the oil pump strainer, cause this small parts of the belt will be there reducing the oil flow.
👍👍👍
Ive git one next week., 60k on the clock , oil light flashed on last nught on his way home , told him not to drive it , modern day shite Peter , well done on doing a video of the job 👏 👍
Hey Mike, the belt itself is actually a really handy job. I didn’t feel the need to remove the oil pan/sump in my case so don’t know how awkward that is, but hopefully not too bad. The best of luck with it Mike 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281hi Peter., just ordered the locking kit for 20 quid off Flea Bay 👍
A tip for next time, we do these all the time at vauxhall (psa) pull the front engine mounting off the engine pulls forward
To get in at the intake manifold bolts & additional room to remove it. Handy to know Peter thank you 🙏 🙏
Hey, quick question to your tip: which Engine mount do you mean? The one seen at 2:05 on the left? Or somewhere underneath?
Thanks in advance!
@janm3005 it's the front engine mounting which is on the driver's side
Wet things happen...intro is outstanding!!
That's what I thought it said in the thumbnail...
Well I suppose if you were a Wet timing belt and someone put in the wrong oil which made you break prematurely 😬😬
That is how you’d feel 😂😂😂
Maybe in the next life🙂
Thanks Bastogne 🙏🙏
Great methodic explaination. Congrats!
Thank you sir, I’m glad you enjoyed it 🙏🙏🙏
Good job , good vid, proper mechanic not a main dealer tech, im an old timer worked on every type of engine you could think of,, bit strange that crank gear.
Hi Thomas, it is a strange crank pulley design but a great time saver, thanks mate 🙏
You deserve more than than a thumbs up, that was the best talk through I’ve seen on RUclips. Well done. I’ve just brought the new Jeep Avenger 1.2 100hp turbo which I believe use’s the same engine. Question 1 when the new Jeep arrives I was thinking of installing a RaceChip increasing the hp 128, in your opinion is the little engine and gearbox strong enough to take the extra hp? Thank you.
Thank you so much & I delighted you enjoyed my video 🙏🙏🙏
Yes, absolutely. They are quite a good little engine & by all means chip it. A bit more power never does any harm 💪💪
Thanks once again. Best regards. Roger
@@smarttask1 🙏🙏
Good job buddy not done one of these in a while used to do quite a few of them the turbo and non turbo versions only because the belt had broke up and blocked the strainer causing oil pressure issues i actually purchased the timing tool after the 5th one and never used it for another year bloody typical😅😅
It is typical David 🙂
I’m the same I’d be struggling with a job only to realise after I’m finished that I had a special tool for it 😂😂😂
I recently fitted a sump on a vw up and had an utter nightmare getting at the bolts at the gearbox end struggled off and on with it then was clearing out my garage at home that night ready for moving house and Jesus what should I find but the exact sockets I needed which was infuriating lolll
@@Gearhead90 Sod’s Law 😂😂😂😂
Very informative and helpful video mate 😊
Actually a really nice design of a t belt to do, hopefully it might help you out someday 🤞🤞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 😃 well, funny enough you really did help me today Peter and I'm very grateful for you taking the time to make that video. My mrs has a C1 with the Puretech engine, 80k miles on it, original belt. I finished it today and yes I was bricking it when I turned the key. But thankfully all is spot on. I did plan on changing the coolant but the bottom hose is pretty well stuck on. I'll come back to that part lol. So, thanks again mate, all good thanks to your assistance 👍
@@ballsack4321 that is fantastic & very well done for doing it mate. That is why I do this stuff
Thank you 🙏 🙏🙏👍
Great job. Did you drop the sump and check the oil pick up pipe? I believe that they get clogged up with rubber particles from the degrading belt, resulting in low oil pressure and BOOM! one dead engine. I would not have bought mine if I knew about the wet belt beforehand.
I didn’t drop the sump on this vehicle as I didn’t feel the timing was after degrading enough to deem it necessary. But it does happen so it is something you need to watch out for 😉🙏🙏
you can loosen the engine mount for better access to the intake
Another commenter also said that & I does make sense, I’ll be doing it next time 😉🙏🙏🙏
I think it's fair to say your not a good mechanic, your a great mechanic. You made that look easy mate, not sure I like the idea of having wet belt though 😮
I've wedged a piece of wood between cam shaft pullies before 😅, can't get it wrong if you mark it all up first
Also, no better feeling after you turn the key fir the first time and it fires straight up
I’m not too fond of the wet belt design either, but I must say that I was impressed with this design. It is a great time saver compared to the Ford wet belts. And thank you very much for the compliment Phil, I’m smiling away here 😊😊😊👍
I must admit, it did look quite easy, not having to remove the engine mount, and no water pump to replace either, keep the video coming, there's a few good mechanics I watch on here, it's great seeing the different ways people adapt and overcome situations, helps us all learn new techniques 👍
I encourage you to watch
: Chris Allan - "Professional struggler"
: Salvage Rebuilds UK
: O'Rileys Autos - Mobile Mechanic & DPF Cleaning
All 3 channels put out great honest content like yourself, give them a watch if you get chance 👍
@@philphil3707 Chris Allen ‘ professional struggler’ is the only one I’m not subscribed to but some great content on O Reilly’s & Salvage builders. I must check him out & thanks for that 🙏🙏🙏
Please check him out, he's a fantastic much like yourself, but works on HGVS, he shows us all the real world struggles of being a mechanic, and the genuine errors which we all make, and thibgs we overlook, but also, is a good problem solver
Did you check the oil strainer for debris ,then change oil and filter for belly and braces job?
Very good video. Unfortunately the PureTech engine has too many design flaws. Mine gave up via the belt and oil leaks at 105,000 km.
Sad to see that customer services (Peugeot for me) are not at all up to scratch and find every excuse not to participate in the cost of repairs.
It is a mine field out there, avoid warranty at all costs 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Expensive keeping them going nowadays 😬😬👍
Did you open the Oil Sump to clean the pump filter? With the belt on this state, certainly you have belt parts there.
No, I did not remove the sump. I didn’t see too much deterioration on the timing. Maybe the camera was showing something that was there 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Very well done. Thanks.
It is a relatively easy job & doesn’t take too long , especially compared to the dreaded Ford eco boost wet belt. Thank you 🙏🙏
Very helpful thanks a lot 😊
They are quite a nice job to do 😉👍👍
Please give me some advice, the service center told me that I need to replace the belt, since 6 years have already passed, but I doubt whether this should be done now? I bought a car in 2018, in 6 years I drove 30,000 km (Citroen c4 Cactus Puretech 82)
Thank this video. Has the timing belt been changed for this vehicle before? How many times has it changed? Or is it the first change?
Unfortunately the owner didn’t know the service history, but the timing belt was in quite good condition for the mileage. So I would assume it had been replaced around 100,000kms 🤔🤔
Good job mate :)
Thank you so much Lukasz 🙏🙏🙏
maybe i have missed the comment but when the belt is changed, should the sump not also be removed to check oil strainer for particles from the previous belt and not just change out the belt ?
For me direction on every job is dictated by the evidence throughout the repair process & in this cause I feel that the belt hadn’t deteriorated enough to deem sump removal necessary. But each and every job can be different, so do what you feel is best 😉👍👍
Shouldve taken sump off afterwards. These suffer from strainer restrictions from debris from old belt great to see the job done with relative ease
The timing belt in this case hadn’t deteriorated which was evidence enough for me to not feel I needed to remove the sump. But you are right it does quite often need to be done 👍 👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 wasnt meant as a criticism. Great job you did there.
@@justinsteel6360 it wasn’t taken as one, thank you for watching. Have a lovely Christmas & we will talk soon 🙏🙏
judging by the top end of that engine, it's had many many frequent oil changes :)
Yes, it has quite a good service history & nothing is left on the long finger. I done this job around 4 weeks ago and the clutch failed only 2 weeks after ( release bearing went through the pressure plate 😬😬 )
Still you’d panic when that break down call comes 😂😂
Great job.
A handy little show & tell Vincent 🙏🙏
Excellent all round
Thank you Martin, greatly appreciated 🙏🙏
Good one pete. Much better than ford lol. I remember the the pugeot 106 and others with the same style flywheel tdc, locking pin . Pugeot really do like there there floating crank gear lol chers 🍺
A really good & easy to work with design, nice to see it being done before you have to tackle one 🤞👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Pete the only issue is I'm in Canada now and we don't have pugeot or citron lol, 🍺 🍺🍺
@@chrism5433 only Ford for you so 😬😬
Great to have someone from Canada tuning in 😉🙏🙏🙏
@@chrism5433 only Ford for you so 😬😬
Great to have someone from Canada tuning in 😉🙏🙏🙏
Miss the 1.1/1/4 KFV/KFZ days lol...
The good old days 😂😂😂
Sorry to ask a stupid question: is the crank locking pin actually holding the crank in place when you undo the crank bolt, and is it intended to be able to do that? (Or does it just provide a reference point?) Thanks.
Unless you leave it in gear and chock the brake pedal it's the only thing holding the crank in place, it's a 16mm steel pin so I guess it was designed to cope with the force needed to get the crank bolt out
Yes Mark, the flywheel locking pin is as Andy says for locking the crankshaft in place. It is actually a easy enough timing belt to do. Very straight forward 😉👍👍👍
There's no need to take the take the coolant lines and battery out, when's ive done a wet belt, i drop the engine mount and the inlet manifold will slide out no problem
So other commenters have mentioned, but this was my first just the approach that I took 😉🙏🙏🙏
Most important clean olie filter in site
dear. great review sure i had an opel crossland x 2020 1.2 turbo .i had same problems at first top up oil level message then engine fault then stop the car message until 77000km .psa engine in egypt decided to replace the engine in warranty by new engine they get it and now they replace it.does psa changed the old belt with new one differ in its mateial to prevent all that law pressure problem? i want to know .i read that they made a new version v3 . is that true thanks
They did upgrade the belt design but I believe that a timing belt & engine oil just shouldn’t be mixed. People might say different but the evidence is that it just doesn’t work. But with a new belt fitted it will last for years, also buy the OE oil from the dealership and keep the receipts for warranty if ever needed. The very best of luck with the new engine & happy new year 🙏🙏🙏
Ohhh man you're lucky that you didn't have to do the direct injection and turbo version off the 1.2 puretech, that is a nightmare without timing tools
Nice to know that Georgi, I’ll be weary of those 😉👍👍👍
The one you cannot see the both camshafts with the rocker cover off. The tool is cheap from laser amazon couldn’t imagine trying without them there’s no point they clip in on end of cams pin in crank and rip it apart chuck it together no messing about trying to mark it up🤙
Have you ever come across a belt slipping a tooth on these engines, Citroen mechanic said this could be the fault on my c3 1.0. Still runs but slow acceleration until 2200 revs then picks up okay. No fault codes and have changed the cat
Hi Dan, I haven’t ever come across this but if your mechanic could look at Cam & Crank synchronisation PID on his scantool he should know pretty fast 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for the reply, will ask my mechanic to ask the Citroen mechanic(a mate of his) if he can look at it
Hi my friend.
Which period apply Replament Timing belt And V belt? For 1.2 puretech engine.
Do u need to do oil change plus filter replaxement when doing the belt replacement?
I would recommend changing the oil and filter too. Also look at the belt condition as the break up and block the oil strainer 😉👍👍
Great video, did one myself last week. Terrible engine design. Lot of work for simple belt change. Why did you cut the exhaust? In took it off from the turbo, just four bolts and a heatshield (and lambda out)
I didn’t cut the exhaust on this Citroen but I’m assuming you might be talking about the Focus Ecoboost timing belt I had cut 🤔🤔
Where the exhaust joins around the steering rack area was welded prior and I didn’t want the challenge of that, so just made my life easier and cut then re-welded it nice and neatly. This business is a moving beast. The Citroen is a far easier job, so well done on your one 💪💪💪
@@kennedysgarage3281 ah yeah correct I was watching your ecoboost video and somehow my comment ended up under this video 🙈. Thanks mate
@@rexpontiusful it a bit like car repair nowadays, things just don’t do what we expect 😬😬😬
Hi I have the same car throwing a code P000A Camshaft slow response bank 1 I’m gonna change the cam and VVT solenoid the timing is bang on belt is new double checked the timing with locking tools soo? What do you reckon thanks
Sorry ‘cam sensor gonna change that
I’m haven’t encountered it on this model but the strainers on the VVT solenoids can block quite often, well worth a look 👀👀
Hi peter. Have a couple of Customers with 208 3cylinder engines in them can you tell me please what's the actual service interval on those belts as I've yet touch one
every 50 km says in my hand book
Hey Colm! Stellantis indicates that you should replace the belt every 6 years or every 100,000 km / 62137 miles. Usually this has to be done earlier, because the belt is too weak for that. First it was 10 years or 175,000 km / 108739 miles .
❤tanks
This was my first wet belt on a Peugeot but it is a whole lot easier than a Ford Eco boost 🙂
Thanks Maurizio 🙏🙏
Hi
I've just done a full rebuild as it also blew a piston 😢 and now I have a fule pressure sensor issue
Did you suffer the same ( but you didn't do a ful engine rebuild )
I did not.
If you didn’t have a fuel pressure issues beforehand could it be a pipe fitted the wrong way round??
Fuel feed & return 🤔
Jobs a goodun 👍 the original belt looked in good shape for the mileage but better to be safe than sorry. Have you ever done a timing belt on a vag cjzc engine? I’m on the fence about replacing it as the procedure says the camshaft timing angle has to be checked and adjusted if not in the tolerance which involves an expensive supa dupa kit and software but have seen people do them without?
I haven’t had the pleasure of doing one of those yet. But I suppose it is going to happen soon enough. Isn’t it awful the way the over complicate it and make experienced technicians be slightly scared of the job incase something goes wrong 😤😤
Do any of ye know how much it costs in the dealerships??
@@kennedysgarage3281 my biggest concerns would be lumpy idle worse case or poorer fuel economy/increased emissions. Seen videos of them done without it and also seen videos of them done without it and in a dealership having to be adjusted because there running rough. The owner is phoning the dealers tomorrow to get a price so I will report back 👍 I’ve advised her to get the water pump/housing and toothed belt replaced also it’s quite a weird engine with it being gearbox end. The procedure is fascinating to watch but I always thought it was Renaults job to re-invent the wheel 🤔😂
@THEGREENBEAR1723 do you also recommend replacing the water pump/housing and belt at the same time? Although it’s on the other end
@THEGREENBEAR1723 I have replaced the water pump & belt up over the gearbox, due to them leaking.
I have also also had to re-time a 2016 Seat Leon with a standard locking kit due to a small misfire at around 2500 rpm but I cannot remember the engine code or if it is the same engine type 🤔🤔
please i want to know . psa recommended mobil psa 5w-30 oil is it the right one for my country egypt with its high tempreture summer
Off hand I don’t know the exact specifications of the oil in your model car but as mentioned I would buy it from the dealer to validate warranty 😉
wow great job and is this the genuine first belt? Because if I heard correctly it has 180000km which is too much for this belt thanks in advance cheers
I actually don’t know the history of this vehicle, but one of my colleagues serviced it and advised the owner that it needed a timing belt replacement. I was just the unlucky one to get the job. But you are correct it was in a good state of repair if it was the original, but possibly not 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for you answer keep it up with the cgannel verry informative
@@filipkrstevski5449 thanks mate, I appreciate that 😉🙏🙏🙏
Nice job mate did you tighten crank bolt with locking pin in engine ir did u take pin out then tighten it thanks
I cannot remember, but it would most likely tighten the crank bolt by hand tool with the pin in place. Generally the flywheel is a good strong point to hold crankshafts
@@kennedysgarage3281
Well mate guess what the fault code relates to bad rail
Pressure sensor i changed that car still
Thr same starts idles and dies then i charged battery overnight it was dead same result then i decided last go at the car 🤣 i unplugged the front o2 sensor on the cat the car euns drives like a dream my question is can a bad 02 cause car to run rough and die
Cause it drives great with that unolugged fron the electrical plug thanks
@@Peter-sm8bj yes Peter, if the 02 sensor fail rich or lean it would run like a pig. Do you have a scantool ?? You should be able to look at what it is doing on live data 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281
I ordered a sensor mate as soon as i plug the catalytic converter 02 sensor back in can starts and hunts then dies
I unplug it car drives perfect
I have a autel scantool with live data but i have no clue what all the readings mean mate 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281
Long fuel trim with it plugged in gives me a reading of 0.0
And map is 29.5
And spark adv is -14
nice watch peter
Thank Paddy a little weekend entertainment & education all in one ☝️ 👍👍
have you seen the service bulletin on this issue
No, what does it say ??
Is it similar to the Ford eco boost one about the oil needing to be correct & the oil strainer getting blocked 🤷🏼♂️
Alright just wanted to know Do you know where camshaft sensor location is 😂😂😂 struggling to find it
I actually don’t know but will check 😉
Just put the whole car in the bin
😂😂😂😂
Yes thats the answer from " master techs " 😂 😂 most of them can use a laptop, but have never seen inside an engine , gearbox or diff 😂
Can you please tell us at what mileage these faults occur?
Turd time of t'asking
I show the mileage in the video 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
This vehicle has 182,000 kms, I recommend watching the whole of my videos to see the mileage’s.
Hopefully this helps you 👍👍
Good luck with the belt, it's rolling into hot oil.
We had a warranty but Stelantis doesn't give the warranty to it.
Its unreliable..
Some have problems at 40k km's. Some at 80 and some at 120.
Due to the books it says around 160k km's or so it needs to be replaced.
All been done by the dealer.
Oil and rubber just don’t like each other 😂😂😂
Насколько надежен этот двигатель при хорошем обслуживании? Какой у него ресурс в милях или километрах?
Not too many people like any wet belt engines. But the belt is really easy to replace compared to others. So replace the belt relatively regularly and it should be a great little engine 😉👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 спасибо за ответ.
Очень нравятся автомобили Пежо, Ситроен.
I’m ashamed to call myself an Engineer after seeing this wet belt design.
The belt material (hydrogenated nitrile for chemical resistance, and glass filled nylon for added strength) is typically great in all oils, chemically very good!
Temps good for 150c
The problem is the surface finish, the rubber likes smooth surface finishes to be run on, and it doesn’t like metal shards being compressed into it!!
I work in the oil and gas sector, and we have seen this occur in our own tools.
Silly design.
I guess these things have to be tested on normal everyday items to prove the test over time. I’m doing a wet belt on a 2021 Mondeo next week, the Eco blue engine and Ford seem to have made it a lot easier to renew. Thank goodness 🙏🙏
👌👌👌👌❤️❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍
🙏🙏🙏
Hello, is 1.6 puretech has wet belt or chain?
I’m not sure but if you remove the oil filler cap and look in you should be able to see a belt or chain 🤞🤞
Yep looks straight forward enough. Certainly better than ford. Who have gone back to a chain anyway on later version
I did hear that Chris, it’s crazy make decisions & then having to change it because of it being such a bad design 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Thanks mate 🙏
@Kennedy’s garage i watched a RUclips video made by the company that were commissioned to design and make the wet belt for ford. They show in the video how they swell with age and the cause of the failure.
@@the_retired_mechanic hmmm, that sounds like an interesting watch. I must do some searching 👍👍
Cuantos km tiene ese motor y cuántos años.gracias
2015 & 180,000 kms. This belt was actually in quite a good state
Did u change? The oil.
It was changed 5 days earlier on a service when we told him to do the timing belt. No oil related issues & I believe the belt hadn’t deteriorated enough to cause any further problems 😉👍👍👍
How is that down as a 8 hour job 😂 your filming and explaing and still got it done it half that time.
🤷🏼♂️ I don’t do too much setting up, so filming doesn’t add too much time. 8 hours was just a guide time that the dealer said. The time may be smaller on Autodata or Alldata 🤔🤔🤔👍
you forgot the check the oil pump mate ;)
Nope, every move I carry out is derived from evidence & i choose not to remove the sump due to the good condition of the belt 😉👍👍👍
What is a cost of such operation.
Thank you
@@Whoknowsthefuture. it isn’t too big of a job so it should be around 5 or 6 hundred
wow that belt is breaking up you will need to drop the sump and clean the strainer
Someone else mentioned that, I must look at the video again because from memory I thought the belt was in very good condition 🤔🤔
I normally would if I thought it was needed but I didn’t in this case, with no oil related issues 🤞🤞
if you need the service bulletin let me know and i,ll send the photos from my 1.2 wet belt scary reading as a mechanic
@@scotspie501douglas7 please, contact me on Kennedys garage.ie 🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 I,ll send you all the info it is shocking scary stuff where are you based
@@scotspie501douglas7 Southern Ireland & you ??
I missed one thing. I didnt see a oil change. And kleening the filter .
Maybe i missed it .
This vehicle was serviced only 1 week earlier, when I recommended it got a timing belt. As for the oil strainer, I felt that the belt hadn’t degraded enough to deem it necessary to be cleaned. I might get to show it on the next one 🤞🤞
I’m at a Ford eco boost belt just today 😂😂
ı watching from turkey.
Thank you for watching sir from Ireland 🇮🇪 & hopefully my video helps you out 🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 yes it helped a lot thank you :)
@@irfanmeric8497 🙏🙏🙏
'savage idea', lol
Hey Davey, it is a brilliant idea. Compared to those bloody Eco Boosts 😬😬
It just makes the job so much easier 👍👍
Change oil when changing belt
It was done 3 days beforehand on a service when we recommended to replace the belt 😉👍👍👍
How many Miles/km?
It has 181,000kms I show it in the video 👍👍
Done shitloads of them on the transit ecoblu engines there infamous done a few engine rebuilds and full exchanges due to total failure of the belt not a clever idea tbh
Probably were a good idea in theory but most people would just use the incorrect oils and nearly cause the problem, just by not knowing 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Dealers do it in an hour and take 7 hours to wash up afterwards.
Probably 😂😂😂
2.7 hrs you get to do it 😬
@@macalfc1019 it is probably do able in that time, once you move fast 🙂😂😂😂
185.000 for Puretech,not so bad.
It may have been changed prior 🤔 possibly around 90 or 100k. Handy enough to change 😉👍👍
Sump off, clean pick up
Advisable in most cases 😉🙏🙏🙏
Citeron had to replace the engine on 24000 miles C4 cactus rip curl even service on Feb then April new engine? Nearly five grand. Free? Common fault on pure tech engine.
These kind of failures must be costing manufacturers some money 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 because it was a defect in timing belt the engine are great but I asked the citeron garage is there a defect not on your car? But there was so it was replaced free even when it was serviced?
I am a state-certified automotive mechatronics technician. Such a senseless construction: a timing belt that runs in the engine oil. The bill of exchange costs about 2,500 €. A Finn blew up his Tesla. That's what you should have with such cars, these such a timing belt in an oil bath 🙈😡😡😡
On these PSA engines it is a relatively easy job compared to the awful 1.0 Ford eco boost engines. These one take around as long as a normal belt to replace, but the Ford one could take up to 12 hours. That is a real pain in comparison, but you are correct whoever thought up of this belt system should be fired 🤷🏼♂️😂😂😂
Thanks mate 🙏🙏
What I dumb design for that belt to be removed
I actually thought it brilliant, it is some time saver for anyone doing it 🤷🏼♂️👍👍
looking at the state of that belt you forgot a RELY important job. clean up the oil pickup in the oil sump. that is guarantied to be clogged.
The belt on this was unusually good, with not deterioration. What did you see that I didn’t ??
@@kennedysgarage3281 the surface on the top. it look's just as it do when it shed the first layer. not the tooth side. the top side.
@@kennedysgarage3281 this one is "worse" as this thing is to the point that the oil lamp is on.
pmmonline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/OESAA-Hub-Fig-3-21.jpg
My belt is deteriorating and the garage said they'll empty the oil sump, but what else could potentially be damaged from the belt deteriorating? I want to check that they've looked at everything before driving it away to avoid any future issues
@@lewdar_ the problem is that you will be running with low oil pressure for a logn time before the light blinks/come on. this also damage the oil pump and can damage the vacuum pump if your car have one. and the low oil pressere will damage the bearings, pistons etc. this will up the oil consumption as things start to were down.
Motor code please
HMZ (EB2F) this is what Autodata tells me when I looked it up 😉👍👍👍
Wet timing belts, what a stupid idea, should only ever be chains that are oiled, not belts
I not a lover of the wet belt design either. But all we can do at this point is try to help avoid them breaking 😬😬👍👍
Aye very true there, just wish they designed them better so that they don't flake off and fall into the sump pan and clog up the oil pickup strainer
@@addzw7195 I believe it is the wrong or incorrect oils that cause them to degrade prematurely 🤷🏼♂️👍👍
Belt
If only the ecoboom was as straightforward the 1.2 turbo in these slighly more work but still easier than ford
I have heard that but this was my first one of these and I must say a brilliant design. Well done PSA 👏👏👏
אני צריך תרגום בעברית לא באנגלית
Hopefully the translation helps 🤞🤞
צריך לשמוע בעברית ולא באנגלית אני מבין רק עברית
Thank you for watching though 🙏🙏
Never ever buy a car with this crappy hupzenflutzen gay 3 cilinder engine ! DEMAND a 4 cilinder car with no turbo and no direct injection.
Very true, nothing runs quite as sweet as an older 4 cylinder engine 😂😂😂
At what mileage should it be replaced.
It is recommended to be replaced at 165,000 but has a whole load of red warnings about premature failure 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Better to do it earlier rather than later 😉👍👍
How much something like this will cost us in England?? Dose anyone know
I’d hazard a guess at around 5 or 6 hundred pounds 🤔🤔
Interesting Pete! I have a Fiesta ‘S’ Ecoboost 1.0(Australia) mine has 97,000Kms on the odo.Not due until 240,000Kms or 10 years(2025) not sure when I will get it replaced.Always get my oil changed @ least(or try) twice a year.Oil & filters are cheap, a blown motor is not.What is your experience on longevity of these little 1.0 Ecoboost motors?Cheer.👍👍🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘
The seem to be failing very prematurely, so much so that they call them the ecoboom engine. Their was 140,000kms on the one I done & it had signs of bad deterioration.
@@kennedysgarage3281 doubt mine will ever get to 140,000kms! It is only a runabout car, not our main vehicle.Maybe there is ‘hope’ for mine yet!.Thx for the feedback Pete.👍👍🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘🦘
@@hackney7106 😉🙏🙏🙏