you can try powder coating. the powder coating paint is a dust, you can get a small bottle of it cheap. dust the material with it and use the laser to harden it onto the surface. normally it is baked on in an over but I tested it on a laser and it works. this powder coat paint is way cheaper but I'm not sure the durability maybe you could try this method out? I used black from harborfreight and it seemed to work on a co2 laser but I think a diode laser should be able to do it as well. just a suggestion to try if you are so inclined
@@JulianaGaribaldi personally I would never attempt to laser zinc. It will likely create poisonous gas. Zinc is not a metal to weld or heat up because of the gas it makes when it oxidizes.
@@JulianaGaribaldi je me sers d'une plaque en zinc pour protéger mon plan de travail.. Le laser vient régulièrement y faire des incursions. Les couvreurs utilisent et soudent cette matière tous les jours ; ni eux, ni moi, en sommes mort.. à force de se surprotéger, je crois que cela rend con ! C'est un motard qui réponds à un automobiliste !
@@newmonengineering je me sers d'une plaque en zinc pour protéger mon plan de travail.. Le laser vient régulièrement y faire des incursions. Les couvreurs utilisent et soudent cette matière tous les jours ; ni eux, ni moi, en sommes mort.. à force de se surprotéger, je crois que cela rend con ! C'est un motard qui réponds à un automobiliste !
Great video! I purchased the Liquid Ready Brilliance Laser Ink and had great success with the laser on stainless steel disks. I'm using a Creality 10w diode at 80% power and 40mm. Any more power caused the stainless steel disks to warp yet the ink didn't get any darker. I probably could have turned the power down further and still would have had the same result. I am unable to scratch the ink off of the stainless!
I just used the spray with my F1 10W blue light diode laser as well as the 2W IR laser on non-anodized brass sheet metal with excellent results. The 2W IR laser was able to cut into the metal as well for a pretty cool effect. Thank you for sharing. Your video was very helpful.
Surface structure is likely to make a huge difference. A machined/turned surface may look and feel perfectly smooth but it is actually a fairly rough surface with lots of microscopic peaks and valleys and those peak high-points are likely to be a lot more vulnerable when it comes to rubbing of the engraved surface on them. Good chance you will get a better result on the machined surfaces if you wet/dry sand and polish them first to get a more uniform and even/flat surface...
I agree with the polishing but I would also add pre-baking the metal which should enhance the lasers ability to saturate the material enough with heat, increasing the likelihood of the ink being permanent. This might be particularly useful for lower power lasers. Although, I'm not sure how that would work practically speaking having to spray the surface prior to etching. Perhaps the clean-up would be a little messier but overall yielding better results. 😊This based on the idea that as metals heat-up they become less conductive because of saturation effect. Copper and copper alloys are very conductive at room temperature so to match the resistivity of steel (poorer conductor) you would have to heat-up copper and copper containing alloys. I don't know the magic temp though.😉
I just got a new 40w diode laser and I was looking at some of these dyes (this specific one in fact as one of them) to help get rid of the reflectivity in particular during engraving. This should work quite nicely on coin blanks I bought on Amazon. I hope to do relief engraving into the metal soon but I think that will require an infrared laser. Great job and thanks for sharing.
I've been making many tests with paint, permanent markers etc. This one looks awesome. I think it would work well on glass. If you note well, the more the metal conducts heat, the less it marks. That's understandable, because the metal keeps the product cool. Maybe pre-heating the metal or placing it on a heating plate during engraving would help for copper. I'm also intersted in seeing if that helps to make PCBs.
My best results have been engraving the image on paint as a resist to etching with ferric chloride on a cotton swab and a power supply. Salt might work, too. You can get a deep etch in stainless steel.
For the metals that the engraving scratched off of, I wonder how much a thin clear coat would help with durability. It should also help protect them from oxidization.
Interesting that that the speed didn’t seem to matter much. I try to avoid using more than 80% power on any engraving to save laser lens life. I’ve used Brilliance on steel sheet and and found no difference between 400-600 mm/m at 70,75,80 % power using a 20W Atezr. I also tried black primer paint and result was nothing once cleaned. Also trying Tempera paint but suspect the same results. Brilliance works, so I’ll stick to it. Also cleanup is so easy. It’s just pricey so it’s used sparingly.
I can't wait until you receive a 20w for testing. I think the 20w modules are where diode lasers finally start to compete with CO2 lasers for many tasks.
Hello, I'm here from the future. I've just taken delivery on a 40W diode laser. The future is bright, at least in a literal sense. I'll try this spray as soon as some gets delivered to me.
I see that it has been a year since the video was published, but I see that you were at Silver Lake, I hope you had a good time and that you will come again. Greetings from Serbia
The issue with Aluminium, brass and copper is that they are all excellent conductors of heat. So the heat from the laser is dissipated extremely fast making it very difficult to engrave with a diode laser.
Correct, I didn't mention in this video, but yes, Thats why aluminum plate is better than steel for the desktop protection during laser cutting or engraving (but almost always they give us steel)
I use an stainless steel sheet on my work table to prevent any damage, it's work perfect.Engravind aluminium and similar materials -problem is heat absorb and reflective so that's these materials needs mediator layer such as black spray paint or tempera.
Try burning a wax candle and inverting the knife over the candle flame about 1 &1/2 mm over the flame which should give you a flat black surface in which to use the laser engraver in the blackened area.
Thank you for all these tests. I wonder if the tests on the coins might be better if you were to use a slower feed on the lathe. With a very smooth machined surface, the markings might be more permanent. Thanks!
I have a XTOOL D1 10 WATT LASER. It will mark Stainless Steel very good with CRC Dry Graphite Lube for $12.0 a can. I spray 3 light coats, let dry between coats. ONE PASS, Laser power at 100 % and speed at 300 mm/minute. WORKS GREAT !! CHEAP TOO.
Hi Egor, great video for a newbie like me, I brought a 10W diode laser recently and I have 3 questions. if you can answer them it will be a great help. what is your laser module wavelength? what focus distance do you use to engrave a 10W optical power laser module? I assume you're referring to output optical power for 5W and 10W? thank you!
The contrast looks very good. But... the machine motion doesn't look very smooth - the curves look ragged and it looks like there is overshoot on the "T".
I Bought the Laser Pecker 3 to engrave onto metals. Currently I need to engrave onto a Zinc Alloy with Electroplated Coating. The Laser Pecker does not come with a manual, do you know how I can get a back finish on the engraving? Do I need to use Brilliance Spray or Cermark to achieve a black finish? I am completely new to laser engraving.
Hello..i want know if you ever heard of ASTA PLA filament..seems like legit company..if you have anything with them plz reply..i wanna buy..but there is just no review about them.
I alread did, there is a video about that too, earlier. And this is not sponsored video (except I can keep that can, don't have to send it back). I just like to present the possibilities of product.
THIS IS THE MOST USEFULL VIDEO ABOUT CHEAP 5W->10WATTS LASERS ENGRAVING METALS.
well done!!!!
I am just about to get my first laser engraver (20W) and this video has been very useful. Thank you.
you can try powder coating. the powder coating paint is a dust, you can get a small bottle of it cheap. dust the material with it and use the laser to harden it onto the surface. normally it is baked on in an over but I tested it on a laser and it works. this powder coat paint is way cheaper but I'm not sure the durability maybe you could try this method out? I used black from harborfreight and it seemed to work on a co2 laser but I think a diode laser should be able to do it as well. just a suggestion to try if you are so inclined
Do you know which parameter i must to use to engrave zync alloy ?
@@JulianaGaribaldi personally I would never attempt to laser zinc. It will likely create poisonous gas. Zinc is not a metal to weld or heat up because of the gas it makes when it oxidizes.
@@newmonengineering Thanks i didn't know it.
@@JulianaGaribaldi je me sers d'une plaque en zinc pour protéger mon plan de travail.. Le laser vient régulièrement y faire des incursions. Les couvreurs utilisent et soudent cette matière tous les jours ; ni eux, ni moi, en sommes mort.. à force de se surprotéger, je crois que cela rend con ! C'est un motard qui réponds à un automobiliste !
@@newmonengineering je me sers d'une plaque en zinc pour protéger mon plan de travail.. Le laser vient régulièrement y faire des incursions. Les couvreurs utilisent et soudent cette matière tous les jours ; ni eux, ni moi, en sommes mort.. à force de se surprotéger, je crois que cela rend con ! C'est un motard qui réponds à un automobiliste !
Great video! I purchased the Liquid Ready Brilliance Laser Ink and had great success with the laser on stainless steel disks. I'm using a Creality 10w diode at 80% power and 40mm. Any more power caused the stainless steel disks to warp yet the ink didn't get any darker. I probably could have turned the power down further and still would have had the same result. I am unable to scratch the ink off of the stainless!
I just used the spray with my F1 10W blue light diode laser as well as the 2W IR laser on non-anodized brass sheet metal with excellent results. The 2W IR laser was able to cut into the metal as well for a pretty cool effect. Thank you for sharing. Your video was very helpful.
Surface structure is likely to make a huge difference.
A machined/turned surface may look and feel perfectly smooth but it is actually a fairly rough surface with lots of microscopic peaks and valleys and those peak high-points are likely to be a lot more vulnerable when it comes to rubbing of the engraved surface on them.
Good chance you will get a better result on the machined surfaces if you wet/dry sand and polish them first to get a more uniform and even/flat surface...
I agree, but in practice users probably want to use this on non-polished surfaces too
I agree with the polishing but I would also add pre-baking the metal which should enhance the lasers ability to saturate the material enough with heat, increasing the likelihood of the ink being permanent. This might be particularly useful for lower power lasers. Although, I'm not sure how that would work practically speaking having to spray the surface prior to etching. Perhaps the clean-up would be a little messier but overall yielding better results. 😊This based on the idea that as metals heat-up they become less conductive because of saturation effect. Copper and copper alloys are very conductive at room temperature so to match the resistivity of steel (poorer conductor) you would have to heat-up copper and copper containing alloys. I don't know the magic temp though.😉
bro this video was SUPER helpfully to choose my engraving machine!
thanks!!!!
I just got a new 40w diode laser and I was looking at some of these dyes (this specific one in fact as one of them) to help get rid of the reflectivity in particular during engraving. This should work quite nicely on coin blanks I bought on Amazon. I hope to do relief engraving into the metal soon but I think that will require an infrared laser. Great job and thanks for sharing.
I've been making many tests with paint, permanent markers etc. This one looks awesome. I think it would work well on glass. If you note well, the more the metal conducts heat, the less it marks. That's understandable, because the metal keeps the product cool. Maybe pre-heating the metal or placing it on a heating plate during engraving would help for copper. I'm also intersted in seeing if that helps to make PCBs.
Your comment inspired me. I have a mini reflow solder station that could keep the copper fairly darn hot. I’ll give it a shot!
My best results have been engraving the image on paint as a resist to etching with ferric chloride on a cotton swab and a power supply. Salt might work, too. You can get a deep etch in stainless steel.
For the metals that the engraving scratched off of, I wonder how much a thin clear coat would help with durability. It should also help protect them from oxidization.
What a wonderful, thorough test! Thanks a lot for all the effort.
Interesting that that the speed didn’t seem to matter much. I try to avoid using more than 80% power on any engraving to save laser lens life. I’ve used Brilliance on steel sheet and and found no difference between 400-600 mm/m at 70,75,80 % power using a 20W Atezr.
I also tried black primer paint and result was nothing once cleaned. Also trying Tempera paint but suspect the same results.
Brilliance works, so I’ll stick to it. Also cleanup is so easy. It’s just pricey so it’s used sparingly.
I can't wait until you receive a 20w for testing. I think the 20w modules are where diode lasers finally start to compete with CO2 lasers for many tasks.
I agree. 2021 was dominating with 5W lasers. 2022 10W and probably 2023 20W
Hello, I'm here from the future. I've just taken delivery on a 40W diode laser. The future is bright, at least in a literal sense. I'll try this spray as soon as some gets delivered to me.
@@williambennett9764following
YAG lasers are lasers that use Yttrium-Alumimium oxide crystals as laser medium which emit in upper side of visible spectrum and in infrared
Thank you
Just the video I was looking for, thanks!
I see that it has been a year since the video was published, but I see that you were at Silver Lake, I hope you had a good time and that you will come again. Greetings from Serbia
Yes,I had a swimming competition there. ruclips.net/video/ASIvinUUYLI/видео.htmlsi=biF0VSKV5akVZufM
Very interesting, thank you for the video. I will soon get myself a machine for myself and this helps in knowing capabilities 👍👍
The issue with Aluminium, brass and copper is that they are all excellent conductors of heat. So the heat from the laser is dissipated extremely fast making it very difficult to engrave with a diode laser.
Correct, I didn't mention in this video, but yes, Thats why aluminum plate is better than steel for the desktop protection during laser cutting or engraving (but almost always they give us steel)
I use an stainless steel sheet on my work table to prevent any damage, it's work perfect.Engravind aluminium and similar materials -problem is heat absorb and reflective so that's these materials needs mediator layer such as black spray paint or tempera.
Try burning a wax candle and inverting the knife over the candle flame about 1 &1/2 mm over the flame which should give you a flat black surface in which to use the laser engraver in the blackened area.
Thx. You already tried this or you just want me to try it? Is it better than using a black marker?
These higher power diodes lasers are starting to be very useful.
Real world testing. Thank you so much for your video.
Thank you for all these tests. I wonder if the tests on the coins might be better if you were to use a slower feed on the lathe. With a very smooth machined surface, the markings might be more permanent.
Thanks!
great video, you are really doing a good job, it helps me; thanks so much...
I have a XTOOL D1 10 WATT LASER. It will mark Stainless Steel very good with CRC Dry Graphite Lube for $12.0 a can.
I spray 3 light coats, let dry between coats. ONE PASS, Laser power at 100 % and speed at 300 mm/minute. WORKS GREAT !! CHEAP TOO.
Hi Egor, great video for a newbie like me, I brought a 10W diode laser recently and I have 3 questions. if you can answer them it will be a great help.
what is your laser module wavelength?
what focus distance do you use to engrave a 10W optical power laser module?
I assume you're referring to output optical power for 5W and 10W?
thank you!
do you have a alternative for the spray like a white board marker if it's possible?
this is a super helpful video. Thank you so much!
good job, thank you for review!
The contrast looks very good. But... the machine motion doesn't look very smooth - the curves look ragged and it looks like there is overshoot on the "T".
Thanks for the video. can your brilliance paint, if applied to glass, be engraved with a Raycus 30Q fiber optic laser?
hey any chance you have tried a 5 or 10w laser to etch painted tin containers? I have some that I want to use for candles
Great Video, thank you. How do you get your laser to notify you when job is complete? I have been trying to do that for ages.
It beeps :-) You shouldn't leave it completely withouts supervision.
I Bought the Laser Pecker 3 to engrave onto metals. Currently I need to engrave onto a Zinc Alloy with Electroplated Coating. The Laser Pecker does not come with a manual, do you know how I can get a back finish on the engraving? Do I need to use Brilliance Spray or Cermark to achieve a black finish? I am completely new to laser engraving.
Would be good to see if PLA can be laser marked
No, it will be just melted.
It appears to just be fusing the material to the surface, not actually engraving.
hi i would like to ask what do you mean by using black marker on 2:21?
Very good info. Can you put the brilliance on a bottle opener that had sublimation on it?
Very helpful. Thanks!
How far away is the lazer from the metal? Same as burning on wood just use the sphere it comes with?
Same, focus on top of the surface
@@MyTechFun I tried doing that at 25mm speed and it still did nothing not even slightly showing up.
@@chrisdolinish4845 25mm / (what unit? sec or min). What is the power of your laser? Are you testing with Brilliance laser ink or just raw material?
pozz, gdje se moze nabaviti ili naručiti taj sprej u našem regionu? thnx
Eh, ne znam, meni su poslali direktno iz SAD. Jedino sam trebao platiti PDV.
@@MyTechFun da, pretražio sam pola shopova u eu...,)) sad sam i poslao mail direktno..pa ćemo vidjeti njihov odgovor.. thnx..lp
I can to engraving silver or gold with this machine? Thank You for your answer. I Will need it if that is positive
No, you need a fiber laser
What is the name of the substance inside of the flask?
Thank you for the video
can we engrave printed circuit boards with 20w diode laser and this spray?
Probably no (I don't have 20W diode laser), but the engraving is not deep enough (spray don't help here anyway)
What power settings have you got on for 5/10 watt
It should be in the video, but always max power. Speeds between 100-400 mm/min (only with steel I tried higher speeds too)
Would this work on glass surfaces as well?
No. For glass just use black marker (those for whiteboards). It will engrave it, less transparent on those surfaces where engraved.
You can use some dark colour spray paint or tempera or just put the glass on wet black paper.Just need to try.Good look.
Great content as always!
consigo cortar acrílico em diode laser?
Is this etching or paint marking?
both
how well is it holding up?
The best is on stainless steel, no visible degradation. other materials not 100% permanent with 10W laser. Fiber laser would be better for this.
Hello..i want know if you ever heard of ASTA PLA filament..seems like legit company..if you have anything with them plz reply..i wanna buy..but there is just no review about them.
Hello, magyar vagy?
Félig. És van egy magyar nyelvű csatornám is :-) www.youtube.com/@3dnyomtatas
👍
Use Mustard instead. Yes I know, the sponsoring money then goes away.
I alread did, there is a video about that too, earlier. And this is not sponsored video (except I can keep that can, don't have to send it back). I just like to present the possibilities of product.