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Volvo v50 common boost leak fix
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2022
- This Volvo v50 was showing a slight loss of power and had a whoosh/hissing sound under acceleration. This was due to a split pipe which is very common, this video will show you exactly how to fix your Volvo and what to look out for.
The parts I used was:
www.ebay.co.uk...
You should continue your videos. I appreciate the no nonsense approach and none of the(music intros, "HEY GUYS WUZT UP!", pointless transitions.)
Thanks mate, appreciate it 👌
This video saved our holiday. Thank you!
We had the whoosing noise and it kept going into limp mode. After googling for the problem, your video came up. It helped me find the split in the pipe.
No time to order the part before our holiday, so I patched it up with a wrap of Gorilla Waterproof Patch & Seal Tape, then gaffa tape on top, then zip ties over that. Whooshing noise gone, and did 500 miles to Devon and back for a week's holiday, no problems at all. Now, time to order the new pipe....
Glad you got to go on your holiday mate! Happy days
How did you get rid of the limp mode?
@@MrCosmynho do you have the whoosh? If so, fix/replace the part. When you restart the engine it's fine again.
If no whoosh then I guess you have a different issue
It`s the hose 100%, I even found and reached the crack, new part is on its way. @@luckybenny83
@@luckybenny83 Intercooler might be fucked as well. I think I've got this problem on my v70 1.6d. Intercooler leaks and is drenched in oil, and car hardly boosts over 0.6-0.7 bar when outside air is hotter (over 25 C). No boost on a car that is already very slow = very dangerous to drive
Cheers for this upload buddy, I have this whooshing noise on my c30 whilst accelerating under load, It then goes in to limp mode, it’s dark at the moment so I’m not able to mess at this current moment in time but I will have a look when it’s light and at least I have somewhere to start now I thought it was the turbo or the intercooler, but hopefully it is the same issue as yours and it’s a simple as changing the hose, thanks again 👊🏻
My pleasure, I hope this is the issue as it’s a fairly easy fix for you, if it’s not then have a look for any loose boost pipes etc, no doubt you’re in limp mode for low boost.
Thanks for this. Led me to the exact same problem with mine.
No problems, it took me a while to find it so I’m glad this video led you straight to the problem
Awesome video mate! I probably have this issue with my V50 beauty as I get this “airplane” like sound - so will check tmrw thanks!!
Talk about wrong timing! I replaced that same pipe. YESTERDAY!
Now YT algorithm decide to choose this video. LOL 😂 😂On the video he talk about the hissing. Another very obvious tell tale. Is that everything in the vicinity of the pipe is black, of the diesel and oils spiting all over the place. On mine even the cooling tank was black! In fact everything was black and drenched in the diesel & oil concoction. So it's also a dirty job! 🙂
For what it's worth. Technically it's an easy job. Just two jubilee clips (7mm). In reality there's some wiggling and swearing involved. Half of the job is done from the top. the other half from the bottom. Remove the upper engine cover undo the clip.
Lift the car (safely) remove lower cover reach for the lower section and undo the clip. Easier said than done! ;-)
NOTE: In most cases the jubilee clip screw is pointing outwards to the front bumper. 'cause of being set in place from the front. So, it's not accessible from the bottom of the car.
In that case I advise to cut the old clip with a angle grinder or any small rotary tool (Dremel type tool) or sawzall. Your choice, keep in mind there's almost no work space in there. Depending on your conditions this is fast and simple.
Either case after getting rid of the clips just wiggle the pipe out. Easy.
Now to set the new one in. Make sure to wiggle it into place. On lower temperatures. The help of an hair drier or heat gun might be handy to make the rubber more supple. Some lubricant, I prefer silicone spray, also help a lot. Tight the jubilee clips and you are done with this part. Put both upper and lower covers in place, lower the car and you are done. ;-)
Ideal job to be done during an oil change or anything that oblige you to access the lower side of the engine bay. This way there's no need to remove the front bumper, headlight, etc. just top and lower covers and 2 jubilees clips.
Additional note: There are several different types of pipes depending on your particular brand, model and year. As an example for my Volvo 1.6 2010.
I was obliged to put a second pipe. Because the first was the wrong model/size, shape and length! I did fit it in place, after cutting to the proper length. But was generally a bad fitting. So yesterday I did it again now with the proper pipe, including the plastic elbow and rubber gasket, none of that exist in this video. ;-)
I hope this is helpful. Cheers.
Grateful for the video thank you so much! Identified where the split was from (short one to the right also split two months back) and was worried having never removed a bumper before but happy to give this a crack now!
Go for it mate, honestly so easy on these Volvos, 10x easier than most other cars.
Kada si vec poskidao crjeva sto nisi oprao interccoler ?
I heard this whoossssshhhh sound and didn't know where it came from. You saved my nerves, mate, thank you a lot. God bless you!
Happy it helped you mate! 🙂
Hi mate. Great video. Do you recon I'd be able to reach to bottom part of the hose without removing the bumper if I'ļl have car on the ramp? Cheers.
Hi, sorry for the delayed response, unfortunately not, there’s not much room under the car without removing the bumper
I have a similar issue with power loss, but there is no hissing sound audible. At one point I believe I have heard it, but it was only that one time. The diagnostics give a general code for booster underperforming. Are there any other possible causes of booster underperformance?
Hi and thank you for the great video. Can I use the same hose for volvo s60 2014 D2?.
Hi mate, yes the same part number is used on the s60 as well.
Brilliant video. Just noticed this fault myself, after having already changed the MAP/MAF throwing the error code, of course..
But, is there a way to reach the bottom without taking the entire bumper off? Like wheel off,. arch cover off?
Thanks again!
Impatiently waiting for @willgd6521 answer as I have the same question !
Thanks a lot for your help🤞👍
Hi guys, unfortunately not, it’s dead easy to whip the front bumper off the car though, one of the easiest cars to get the bumper off. Good luck!
Hi mate. Did you have any issues getting the lower part of the hose off the car? And likewise getting the new one on. Mine is on very tight not sure how to handle it
Hi, yes they are usually stuck on well the best thing to do is to break the seal by running a pick or a flat screwdrivers round the bottom of the pipe to pry it away from the cooler. Then I gripped the pipe and twisted whilst pulling. In regards new pipe it will go on but same again twist whilst back and forth while pushing until it’s all the way on. Do not use and sort of lube. Hope this helps 👍
Hi mate. I changed this pipe but still have the noise under acceleration, any idea what it may be? Dont to pay a garage for a simple fix
Sounds like you have a boost leak from another pipe or your intercooler, easiest way is to smoke test the system if you have a smoke tester or know someone who does? Otherwise you could end up replacing the whole system before you find the cause
If you have this, get it fixed ASAP. It will shortly clog up your DPF which will be costly (250€ on it yesterday).
The explanation is that the leak is located after all the sensors prior to the sensors in the engine. That means that the ECU delivers a certain ratio of diesel and air, but along the path towards the cylinder, a bit less air actually reaches the engine because of the leak so there is residue carbon in an amount excess tham what the combusion is assumed to do. The ECU can't correct because there are no sensors for that. So, the DPF will get clogged by the excess carbon (it will build up).
Hey Will. Im having a small sweat or leak, located on the hoses just above the dpf housing. Next to the oil dipstick. Any idea where should I start?
Hi mate, first thing I’d do is spray everything off with brake cleaner or something similar make sure everywhere is spotless then go for a 5 minute drive and check to see if anything is visible this will help locate exactly where it is. Problem is if you don’t know how long it’s been leaking it could have blasted residue everywhere and you’ll spend hours checking every clip, hose, o ring etc
@@willgd6521 thanks a lot, I will do this. Just in case, if im correct there should be no oil in that pipes right?
@@rudger1913 there will be oil residue but it shouldn’t be enough to drip out. Oil residue in the inter cooler hoses is fairly normal from the turbo and and the crankcase breather
My c30 diesel needs o rings and a breather valve . Pipe going to the bottom of the oil sump from above the waste gate is leaking . Expansion tank has a small crack.
What did it sound like while running with the leak
Think I mentioned it a couple of times haha, constant whooshing noise under load, like an airline being open
@@willgd6521 thank you
@@gustavo1271 whoossssshhhh while accelerating or letting go of the gas pedal, incredible bad mileage and sometimes jerking while driving in a constant speed
@@adisl6659 would that throw a check engine?
@@willgd6521 would it throw a check engine?
Can this cause black smoke ?
Quite possibly, if your car is expecting an amount of pressure but loosing pressure through a boost pipe it would mean over fueling and possible black smoke