I can’t believe I found this guy. He is amazing. He is so full in-depth in his instructions and goes over and above in all steps. I removed and cleaned, replaced my EGR yesterday after watching this guys video. I got the dreaded faulty anti pollution message and since cleaning the EGR and resetting the code it runs brilliant. He saved me hundreds of pounds and it went like a dream. I can’t thank him enough.
Hello, I have a 1.6hdi 2008 diesel. Everything works fine but want start when motor is warm! Have to wait 90 -120 minutes! Peugeot told me change egr! Did not help! When starting hot motor cranks for a second and goes out! I believe it must be s sensor or relay preventing diesel to reach motor! Any clew what I can search?
Finding this channel was like finding gold. I did some work on my mini based on your advice and found some minor issues. Now waiting for parts to arrive and replace them. Anyways... Love the channel!
My van passed just over 300 000km. It was driven most of its life on open roads. Used that oil all the time. Changed oil every 10 000km, changed all the fluids when it had 150 000km on a big service. Now i pulled off the head to get the it checked for lifter noise. The cylinfers look clean, no scoring, no carbon buildup. Original turbo on the car. Cams have no wear. Only worn out part are the injectors and i sent theme to be refurbished. I might have caused it since the van was driving at least 40 000km on a 50/50 mix of used vegetable oil and diesel due to me beeing very broke at the time. Had to replace the oil pan since i stripped the plug somehow and the back collant pipe that runs behind the engine. Also replaced the front rocker cover due to it leaking oil. Your channel was really helpfull with diagnosing the smoke issue on cold starts.
I had a turbo fail when driving fairly hard, to blow the soot out of the exhaust on the way to the cars MOT test (UK annual test). The very obvious sign of failure was that I had to change down gears on hills & would barely reach 60 mph. Interestingly it passed the MOT test. The failure was the turbo shaft broken at the exhaust side. I got an Ebay used turbo for 40GBP. (Jan 2022). Drained engine oil while hot. Replaced oil filter. Refilled oil. Next day when old drained oil was cold, (winter) the entire volume of the oil was a jelly, not a liquid. No doubt that's due to the oil contamination due to leaking injectors as explained in this video. (Leaking injectors found 5 weeks later). Changing the turbo on this engine is one of the easiest jobs ever! Rather than undoing any exhaust manifold bolts or replacing exhaust gaskets (that I didn't get with a used turbo), I removed the clamp around the exhaust turbo housing, on the original turbo & also on the replacement turbo. So I just replaced the entire inlet side of the turbo with the center bearing & both impellers but reused the outside (rusty) steel exhaust casting of the old turbo. (Which remains bolted to the exhaust manifold & the cat). Cleaned some sludge from top oil banjo union & its bolt. (Didn't touch the lower union at this time). With the turbo removed, I checked oil feed... Put the turbo oil feed banjo union in an empty jar. So that I could let the starter turn the engine without starting the engine, I removed the immobiliser chip from the ignition key. (You might be able to just wrap the key in foil but I haven't tried that. You might be able to unplug all the injectors - but I'm not sure that's safe for the ECU). Turned the engine over for a few seconds & checked a reasonable amount of oil was in the (previously empty) jar. Fitted the turbo & oil feed. (Reused old vacuum waste gate actuator). Turn the engine over again on the starter for a few seconds to get oil to the turbo bearing. Refit the immobiliser chip in the ignition key. With the vacuum tube removed from the turbo actuator, start the engine. With the engine running note the position of the waste gate lever, reconnect the vacuum tube and check the lever moves. Refit covers, job done. 18 months later (when changing the clutch) I had the cat off & took the opportunity to take the entire turbo oil feed pipe off, clean the pipe & the lower banjo with the wire gauze filter. Nothing unusual. Blew it through with compressed air, then brake cleaner. 5 weeks after changing the turbo, I found I had a "chuffing" injector leak. I had to drive with all 4 windows open due to the exhaust fumes, so that wasn't something that was going to continue to chuff for more than a few days! Also moderate "tar" around 2 injectors. Initially tightening the injector clamp nuts to 7Nm, stopped the chuffing sound but could still smell exhaust in the car. Eventually had them all tightened to 14Nm. Tightened with engine hot, immediately after a 15+ mile drive. Repeated the hot tightening several times (different days) until no more movement at 14Nm. Then check every 6 months or so, at 14Nm with engine hot. (Generally little or no movement). The reason for engine hot, is so that the "tar" is somewhat soft, which allows the injector to move a bit more each time towards it's proper position, with the proper pressure on the copper washer to achieve an effective seal. This was 2 years ago. No further leaks. No injector copper washers or seals were replaced.
Many thanks indeed for sharing this, really appreciated! It will work if caught early on, then one can tighten the injectors. The soft pliable copper washer can be crushed a bit further in, so it will reduce/stop exhaust gasses coming through. I suspect it can be done only once, if it comes back again, it is probably taking out the injectors. Hopefully not.
@@moremolecules Point taken about the copper washer probably not sealing just by tightening, if it ever leaks again. I intend to keep checking the injector clamp torque every few months for the rest of its days, so it shouldn't leak again. Perhaps the biggest risk is I might use the torque wrench with the wrong setting & break a stud. Hopefully I would think to check if any of the nuts ever moved much.
Just bought an old Partner and I need to do a lot of work on it so I have a lot of questions. I got just about all the answers from watching these videos. Amazing! All I need to do now is find some diagnostic software to manage the electrical systems.
Amazing info. I don't even have a car with this engine (mine has the DW10 2.0 BlueHDI), but I've heard so much about failing injector seals in these engines that I wanted to learn a bit about it, and thanks to you, now I know.
Hi Chris..😜.. Brilliant video as usual.. Just like to add something.. If the turbo fails be sure to clean the oil pan and the oil pickup filter as mine did not get cleaned by the mechanic and sure enough the new turbo failed in 3 months.. The second time around I did the job myself and found the oil pickup filter clogged like crazy causing oil pressure problems. Since I cleaned it out the car has been running like a dream.. Hope this helps someone in a similar situation. Thanks again for the video and keep up the good work.. Cheers
Hahaha, thank you. Yes that is completely true and thank you for the comment. I have a mini-series (5 videos, N1 ruclips.net/video/Q7S0qDBo314/видео.html) that adds this as a check when one is replacing the turbo.
@@moremoleculesyeah it’s also interesting that Ford engineers didn’t like the mesh in the turbo oil feed pipe so all Ford, Volvo and Mazda cars that had this engine were never fitted with that mesh/ gauze then a year later Peugeot did the same lol 😂
@@gimble447 Yeah, those meshes are actually important. They were placed so on new engines to capture any metal swirl going around the engine from manufacturing. Unfirtunately, most dealers and garages could not be bothered to clean it and change oil within 200-300mils from new. THen you have all these problems. Ford thought, yeah, let's not bother with this, so sometimes you would get these metal flakes (little) going to the turbo itself. This gauze was never meant to be permanent. Haha, or at least that was my understanding on how this went from rumours on the great web thingy...
@@moremolecules 180k miles on my Volvo V50 1.6d and original turbo just starting to whine a little now but still pulling like a train, maintenance more important than the gauze as the gauze is only safe if you never miss an oil change and let’s face it 90% of people still running around in cars with this engine will have missed some services by now so I’d be wary of buying an earlier car with those fitted tbh
Thank you very much for the information. There is a whistling sound in my turbo. I just had the turbo done. Probably the tires on the injector end may be worn out, I will check them all
The best way to look after your turbo is frequently oil change helps and a catch can on iv had alot of hdi and always done this and had no problems whatsoever 👍
Here is how: ruclips.net/video/QdxyAHP1DVM/видео.html I've had this oil catch can setup for ~2 years now and it is not difficult to do. My previous installation (a bit ugly): ruclips.net/video/VEoO7-fmMkc/видео.html
@@littlereptilian7580 Sounds about right, but you would be surprised how 50ml of oil + the ash from the EGR can create a huge mess and coat everything. In other words, a lot of restricted air intake pathways
Great summary of the situation with this engine, and entirely consistent with my experiences too. I would add is the following: If you have carbonised oil inside the camshaft chamber following injector seal leakage, this really needs to be removed, otherwise it will be perpetually breaking-up and contaminating fresh oil. The problem is that getting those crazy injector studs out (M6 one end/M7 the other) to remove the cover is right pain, as is the fact that the camshafts are mounted on the underside of the cover, so it's cambelt off etc etc. I got advice from one forum: "The only solution is to clean the engine within an inch of its life!" and that's what I had to do. It's also important to remove the oil pan and clean-up the oil strainer. Further, it's worth modifying the sump as, being a steel pressing, the female thread is raised forming a 'bund' which prevents full drainage of engine oil and, in particular, carbonised oil debris. So I reckon that if you fully clean the engine, the normal oil change interval will be fine. It's not an inherently dirty engine as many have suggested, just that the injector seals may leak! In my book it's necessary to recut the injector seal seats in the cylinder head before fitting new copper washers. In my case, the first indication I had of carbonised oil causing problems was low oil pressure: the warning light came on. So with my Citroen C5 I fitted an oil pressure gauge to give me a first indication of any possible issues. If you have an injector which is 'chuffing' i.e. leaking severely, you will also see carbon fragments in the underside of the engine cover: a dead easy thing to check.
I had a "chuffing" injector and no contamination of the engine cover. Perhaps if it's driven for months like that. I had to drive with all 4 windows open, so that wasn't something that was going to continue to chuff for more than a few days! This was over 2 years ago. Initially tightening the 8 injector clamp nuts to 7Nm, stopped the chuffing but could still smell exhaust in the car. Eventually had them all tightened to 14Nm. Tightened engine hot, immediately after a 15+ mile drive. Repeated the hot tightening several times (different days) until no more movement at 14Nm. Then check every 6 months or so at 14Nm with engine hot. (Generally little or no movement). The reason for engine hot, is so that the "tar" is somewhat soft, which allows the injector to move a bit more each time towards it's proper position, with the proper pressure on the copper washer.
Brilliant video and explanation, this can also apply to a lot of diesel engines, I have the ‘crusty deposit’ around one of my injectors and will be fitting new seals very soon ! Thank you - and this channel deserves a lot more subscribers !!!!
Personally, i change the oil on our 2010 4007 2.2 HDi (130,000 miles) just every 9,000 miles/15,000 km. But i stick to the Total Oil you mentioned. It runs really well, no oil consumption. And also, it is not a big deal of changing it.
My theory is that Excessive crankcase pressure from a faulty egr valve and or pcv valve will prevent or reduce the amount of oil that can return to the sump. If the crankcase is pressurised it will blow back up the oil return hose. A tip for removing the injector is to shock the studs with a chisel to break the set then use an e torx to wind the injector stud out little by little acting like a draw bolt against the injector clamp.
Thanks for the informative video. The question, where do we need that turbo oil line banjo mesh filter? The oil is anyway filttered. Does this "banjo filter" work as the "last chance filter" in an aviation jet engines? Better to remove that filter in order to prevent oil starvation? "Any oil is better than no oil".
Great info! Many thanks. I have replaced 2 of the copper seals in the last year after signs of the black tar, and slight chuffing, fumes in the car, have also checked the torque on other injectors. Just wanted to ask if re cutting the seating surface is always necessary? mine looked good after a thorough clean so I just replaced the copper seal without re cutting the seat. is that ok if the leak wasn't too bad? the first one I did has been leak free for a year now. Thanks.
No you do not need to recut the seat, but of course it depends on how long it was chuffing. The longer it is the more opportunity the gasses have to eat the metal and then you need to recut it in order for the seat to be level and the washer to make a clean contact. The cutting is also needed of there have been carbon deposit as well, but is it is clean whe the new washer was put in, then it should be ok. If it has been clean for so long now it is absolutely fine.
I'd place the cutter inside and hand turn it with no pressure. This way your not cutting down any more but if there is any tinny uneven areas it will sort it out. Ps pup some grease on the end so any bits stick to the cutter rather than drop in the chamber
Excellent video, thank you. I have the Ford 1.6 TDCi and this weekend I`m gonna inspect those Banjo pipes, not having thought about that possible cause of turbo failure. I do have some tar around the injectors so it is a caused for concern. I would have to address that, sooner than later... Oil and filter changes I do every 5000km. Car now has 337000 km. Subscribe button smashed !
Hi I totally agree with regular oil changes I do mine every 3 to 5 thousand and I’ve got a catch can, empty 3 times a year always a quarter full. Brilliant explanation 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Why wouldn't the oil filter stop the carbon deposits getting to the turbo? I thought it was a case of the oil pickup getting clogged causing oil starvation to the turbo.
Because it is something that fairly few people know. The oil filter has a bypass valve! If it gets too clogged and the flow of oil needs to still go, so it has a bypass valve, all the bits and pieces do not go through the filter. Hence, it is crucial to change oil lfrequently + the oil filter. My fault, I did not include this in the video.
@moremolecules do you know what the little nipple on the oil filter is for? Is it just to help locate the filter when installing? I read somewhere some versions exist that have a tube outlet instead of just a plastic nipple.
@@norm4260 Yeah, not too sure, as far as I know it is just a location lug, nothing more, but may be wrong about this. For the 1.6HDi, I do not think there are more designs about there, but maybe, I am not the best expert on these 🙂
Nice video bro. Thank you very much. I did the seals replacement and it went well. However, i discovered diesel leaking of the diesel entry on the injector. Do you know how can i solve it? Thank you
You could potentially nip the nut a little bit (if it was disturbed or undone), but preferably undo the nut, inspect and re-seat or change the fuel line itself.
Hi - just watched this great and very detailed video, as I'm doing injector service on my Peugeot 207. I notice that you state that the carbon buildup from a leaking seal can end up in the engine oil - how is that? As I see it, there is no contact between the injector and the engine oil, so... ?
My turbo got faulty after i overfilled a bit of the oil, and on top of that the seller got me the wrong oil for the car. Now it has no boost and there’s oil spilled around a lot of parts. Replaced the crankcase cover but oil is still coming through the PCV valve into the turbo intake manifold. Still can drive fine but very sluggish. There’s oil leaking in the turbocharger, smoke is being expelled from it since startup. Actuator vacuum seems ok, there’s no excessive play from the rotor, turbine is sucking in air just fine without any noises… Going to an autoshop would cost more than what the car is worth… I don’t know what to do to fix that.
Hi More Molecules! Thanks for the genuinely great videos! You are very knowledgeable about the 1.6HDI engine and I have one in my Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2010. However, this particular one suffers from a problem. There is a fuel leak. Diesel drips down from somewhere on the back of the engine and down onto the exhaust. The car shows two error codes P0093 (Fuel System Leak Detected Large Leak) and P0087 (Fuel Rail / System Pressure Too Low). I suspect the fuel harness to be the culprit but it's hard to see because everything is at the back of the engine. Is it possible to change that harness from above, so to speak, or is there any other way to access the back of the engine? When this more serious issue is out of the way, I'm going to fix the leaky crankcase breather, with a thicker O-ring, the way you showed, and I think there are some other issues that you have solutions for too. Anyway, thanks for all the videos! I hope you can find the time to answer my questions. /Mats
It could well be a leaky diesel fuel filter or something else. Pretty much all is at the back and rather difficult to do from the top or front. The C4 has limited access to the back, so it would be easier if you have a mirror and look where it leaks. It is leaking somewhere, so you may have to remove the airbox and have a better view. Do not remove the diesel filter and it may be leaking from there. Good luck
I've had my Peugeot 1.6 HDi 90 from new and it's now on 410,000km (256,000 miles). It blew its turbo at around 200,000km and the mechanic was convinced it was the quality of oil I had been using. While the oil met all the requirements (5W30, fully synthetic, ACEA C2, PSA B71 2290, etc.) and I changed it every 10,000km or 6 months, it was a supermarket brand (E.Leclerc here in France) and he was not impressed! So since then I have only been using the likes of Shell, Mobil, Total and so on. So far, so good.
Yes it could be, but when a turbo blows there is always some sort of a more concrete reason. I suspect the mechanic did not investigate fully why that hapenned. Blocked banjo bolt or something blocked somewhere or could be that you cover a lot of km/miles and there would be a limit to components of course. If the oil was meeting the specs it should have been good, but maybe. I always use reputable oil manufacturers, Total, etc., but the others should also be alright.
@@moremolecules I don't really doubt the mechanic - he's always been spot-on with everything he's done for me over the last ten years or so. I did ask him about the mesh filter but he said it was difficult to tell. He did replace it though with the long plastic one. The turbo had a massive failure and the oil filter was full of metal and ceramic. He had to do three oil and filter changes as well as a sump removal before he was happy there was nothing left before he fitted the new turbo.
@@ajkgordon Yes, sometimes is a bit difficult to tell. The failure is more often than not spectacular, say the shaft seizes and overheats, breaks in a place somewhere and the blades get to touch the metal casing and then these get thrown in the oil return, filter, etc. Unless is caught earlier, but difficult to do.
@@moremolecules I was very proud of mine at 400,000km but when I took it in the other day, he had an identical Partner in the workshop at 750,000km! Fantastic cars. Our next car will be the Rifter.
They have a reputation, but if taken care as you have said, they are great units that would run for a long time. No wonder Peugeot/Citroen/Ford/Mazda/Mini/Suzuki/Volvo all use the same 1.6HDi engines 🙂
@@moremolecules japanese petrol engines with vvt have low consumption and high reliability. The perfect car would be a german one with a japanese engine.
I agree that clogging of the turbo oil feed filter kills most turbos, I doubt that's related to the injector. However the biggest flaw of this otherwise solid engine is the oil volume of only 3,7 litres, which is far too little and the root cause for poor oil quality due to contamination with fuel and soot. Independent of mileage I believe that 2 oil services a year are mandatory.
Yes, the injector seal failures have been for awhile in the PSA bulletins. I agree that there is not enough oil in the 1.6HDis. Even my 1.6 Peugeot petrol engine has bigger capacity than the diesel.
@@moremolecules I know, I had to fix mine recently and of course it was the cylinder No.1. I just cannot imagine how the gunk that emerges from the seal should make it back into the oil circulation. Did you open the valve cover of your engine and have a look at the cams? I found mine to be shockingly worn, probably because the hydro lifters are blocked with oil residue and don't give enough way once the engine is hot. However, once worn it does not seem to get worse, as I could not find any metal chips in the oil or filter.
@@cyberbob4111 Yes, it took me really some time to work out how the gunk can go back in. The thing is that the injector tube is not integral to the head of the engine or crankcase, so there is a rubber seal that seals it from the crankcase. The gunk can pass that one and go into the crankcase oil and then the consequences of gunking the small turbo oil feed filter and the oil pickup as well. I had a look at the cams, but they look kind of alright, there are a bit worn, but they do not seem excessively so.
Hello, Very useful and informative video, thank you. With regards the Banjo bolt mesh filter......In your opinion is it sufficient to remove the wire mesh with a small screwdriver, and leave it without a filter OR should one ideally buy a plastic filter (as shown in your video) ? I would not know where to buy the plastic filter. Is it possible to remove the Banjo bolt which feeds oil to the turbo without removing the FAP ?? Once the oil line / tube has been drained of oil (by removing the banjo lower bolt), is it necessary to prime the oil feed to the turbo so it is not starved of oil when the engine is initially restarted ?? THANK YOU
Thank you for the comment and interesting questions. Difficult to answer some of these. I would ideally buy the replacement plastic mesh filter. It has been redesigned to allow bigger flow of oil and keep the turbo clean. If you remove the metal original mesh completely then yes, there will not be blockage of the mesh, but you risk small particles to go to the turbo. There should not be particles, but you never know. The stuff that I used are in the description of the video, mostly from ebay. I do not think you can get access to the banjo bolt without removing the exhaust and the alluminium shields. There is no need to prime the actual pipe, but you prime the turbo itself, then it spins with oil inside. Initially there is not that much heat and the oil that is inside keeps it lubricated, then eventually a few secs, the pump will have put oil in the turbo. Hope all these make sense, but let me know if something is not clear.
@@moremolecules Thank you for your replies. I cannot find the replacement plastic mesh filter in your links, please would you mind letting me have the link. Some people suggest that removing the original metal mesh helps achieve better turbo lubrication, and others state that you get more black smoke through the exhaust because there is too much oil flow to the turbo. (I am not too concerned about small particles getting to the turbo as I change the oil quite regularly). The plastic filter does seem to be a reasonable compromise. It is a shame with today's engines you have to remove so many components to get to the one you wish to remove. I cannot understand why PSA designed the oil feed to the turbo behind the FAP !!! Understand that priming the turbo with oil by removing the Banjo bolt on the turbo will keep it sufficiently lubricated until the oil pump kicks in from the engine. Many thanks.
@@johnmcculloch4009 Yeah, sorry. The components are in a series of 5 videos I made on how to replace the turbo: ruclips.net/video/Q7S0qDBo314/видео.html There you can see several links and towards the bottom you get the Nerings replacement kit: ebay.us/I75sFD There are some other bits and pieces
Hello! I just saw you video and i had a similar problem with the injector seals on my 2007 Volvo C30. At one point this year i started noticing gas smell inside the car when the engine was stalling but not when i was driving at high speed. I had it checked and the mechanic told me it was the injector seals which were worn out. There was also the grime you just described near them :) Anyway, i had them changed, the engine cleaned, and after 2000 km i changed the oil and oil filter along with the air filter. It runs smoothly and accelerates well to its top speed (180km/h). Should i be worried though about my turbo?
Very good questions. Generally, if you service it regularly and replace the oil filter regularly, then it should be alright. I did not quite expand in the video, but the oil filter on these is a full flow filter with a bypass valve. So, if it has not been replaced regularly and on time, then it gets clogged a bit and the bypass valve opens, then all these carbon particles can go to the turbo banjo bolt filter and clog it. In short, if you have been servicing you car regularly it should not be a problem. You have noticed it quickly, so unlikely to be a problem.
@@moremolecules Thank you for the answer. Fact is that i did drive a few hundred miles before fixing it, thinking that it was probably a minor problem with the exhaust or cabin filter, only to realise when looking under the hood that it was coming from the engine. And yes i change oil and oil filter each year, air filter once every 2 years, i changed the fuel filter 30.000 km ago. Next i want to flush the coolant, its 5 years old already. When accelerating from 1600 to 2200 it seems that the turbine is whistling a bit, but i assume it's normal to make a sound like that when entering its cruise speed.
@@BHDJG It should be then alright, unless you want to open the banjo bolt and clean it, but it is a bit of an effort. Maybe there is a difference between the C30 and the other 1.6HDi, but the turbine does not whistle on these, or at least you cannot hear it as compared to other diesels. Maybe it is a bit more open on the Volvo or some of the air hoses are not connecting properly. Yeah, coolant. Flush it with distilled water. That is what I did: ruclips.net/video/CSmm2SCpPCs/видео.html
Vey informative video. Topl! I wanted to ask you if I can take into consideration your suggestions for the Volvo C30 1.6 diesel 2008? As far as I know, it is the same engine produced by Peugeot, with some minor changes. Thank you.
Yes, it is exactly the same engine and the same things apply. There might be some differences in plastics here and there, but the main stuff are the same.
is this engine same on mini cooper r56 1.6 80k i have that model I need to do a major service, what do you recommend, what else should I pay attention to?
Theres also a mesh screen that sits inside one of the banjo bolts in the turbo oil feed, that becomes blocked up with grime and prevents proper lubrication of the turbo, just remove it and refit the banjo bolt
Like at 2:44 ;-) Yes, but if there are any bits they will certainly block the turbo shaft when they go up. I replaced mine, but really thought hard about removing my mesh filter. At the end used the upgraded version. Pros/cons it is 50:50 for the mesh filter
I am struggling to understand how a failed injector seal can contaminate the oil. Even with a failed injector seal, the black tar-like substance has no way of getting into the valve/rocker cover. The seals at the top of the injectors are only designed to stop moisture/water from seeping down to the bottom of the injector. With the seals and injector removed, you're not exposing any openings to the engine oil in the cylinder head. Am I misunderstanding something?
Yeah, I should have been more explicit in the video, although most people will switch off, hence the shortness of the explanation. First of all, the injector tube is not integral to the head of the engine, so the bits can leak into the oil, if they can pass the top seal. Then comes the bit where all the oil gets filtered by the oil filter, but....the oil filters can get clogged with less frequent oil changes or the oil filter is sub-par quality. It has a bypass valve, so the stuff inside, the crud and carbon particles then can get through. Also, some of the oil filter are not that good quality and sometimes either the bypass valve opens too early or it leaks, so letting more stuff through. All these mght go to the turbo mesh and block it. That is the simple reason for the more frequent oil and oil filter changes, so the oil filter does not get blocked and bypass valve open to let things through. The oil filter is full flow filter, so if there is not enough volume the bypass valve will open.
its the bolts themselves not the nuts when you remove the injector see how loose those studs are most of mine were barely in. you can tighten them with a torx E size socket cant remember the size
just checked mine, upper banjo had a black burned look to it & some black burn to the surroundings. Im worried about my turbo now. Also some oil stating to collect around the twin padded large hoses to the left of the engine. What would you suggest? Last service was last december around 4k ago.
Difficult to tell. If I were you I would wipe it clean, proper clean, you could use small amounts of carb cleaner and then monitor to see if will come back. It could be that at the service someone spilled a little bit and that burnt. Where is the oil starting to collect? On the right-hand side? Maybe this might help: ruclips.net/video/ziKR6M6ToSg/видео.html
I have the same engine as this and it is burning oil i dont know what is wrong i put thr car to 3100 reves and it bogs down and lots of blue smoke comes out also power seems to be lower after 3k revs to would you know what is wrong thanks
I would guess that it is the turbo somewhat spewing oil. The loss of power as well. Check the propeller for free play for example here: ruclips.net/video/-ML49tY9Pgk/видео.html This is normal, check if yours is not, but potentially you would need to replace the turbo cartridge. Maybe I am wrong, you never know
Hey, could some oil/diesel next to the injectors indicate a bad seal? I've replaced the third cylinders injector seals about 4k km ago and recently the turbo blew up. The banjo bolt, oil strainer and oil filter were clean and the oil didn't have any metal shavings. Or could it be that the turbo blew up due to age and mileage? It's a c4 2006 1.6hdi with 260k km. Thanks
Difficult to tell without looking at the car, but carbon deposits around the injector seats definitely a bad injector seal. A bit of oil could come from anywhere, someone did not quite fill the oil properly when it was replaces ot something. If it was wiped clean and then it came again, then it is leaking. I do not think turbos blow from just age. Yes, they do age and the tolerances get bigger, but it will be just blowing a bit of oil, rather than blow altogether if you know what I mean. I hate that expression. I meant that they do not blow from age, they simply pass a bit of oil, like smoking a bit, but that does not mean that they will disintegrate in the next few thousand miles or so.
Not all of them, but I think the next model of mine is also into this bracket, so probably up to not too sure which year but say 2014 or so, probably less than that.
Hi, I have the following problem with my c4 1.6hdi 109 hp year 2007 euro 3, after the engine warms up it stops firing, I changed the pressure sensor, egr, vacuum sensor plus hoses plus flowmeter but I noticed that if I remove the plug from the car's flowmeter it works perfectly, if I plug it in again, the fun starts again and it stops firing... help, I don't know what to do with it
Do you mean the MAF sensor? If you remove the MAF sensor and it works, buy a new one and replace it. THey are on the expensive side of things, but fairly frequent problems with these. You could try cleaning the MAF element with alcohol, but most of the time it has burnt. You could try buying a second hand one as they are cheaper, but generally it is unclear how goo they are.
Yes, it could well be, unless you have your windows opened and the wind gets the gasses back to your car. The telltale clue is the black tar around the injectors
I had leaking injectors replaced with carbon deposits on top my turbo is now failing and making a grinding noise if i replace the turbo what else do i need to replace just turbo oil and banjo bolt or should i be changing feed line and oil filter etc ? Thanks im advance
Yeah, all of the above. Do a few oil changes every say 300 miles + the oil filter. You do not need to change the feed line, but definitely change the oil filter with new oil several times. If the turbo has not gone, it should be alright with a new banjo bolt, oil pickup.
Regarding the injector bolts you need to pay attention for the bolt not to be loose since that is also threaded, also those are replaced very often since they very soft material and they stretch, I have replaced the injector seals 3 times on my Peugeot, I only fixed the leak after I bough an injector seat cutter and cleaned the seats an injector, also replaced those bolts which were VERY VERY loose, unscrewed by hand
@@MrQueelie Yes, they are a bit of a nightmare. You could potentially drill them out and re-thread them with bigger bolts, but that requires some effort.
@@MrQueelie Maybe this technique will work? ruclips.net/video/5fk_Ibv7w50/видео.html The video is in Russian, but you can get the gist of it. I've watched a few videos of the person and his stuff are rather good. Problem is the understanding, but with google translate it kind of works.
I would do it on a cold engine, although it can also be done on a hot engine. When on hot engine the risk is to stretch the studs and potentially break them.
Some suspension components, but difficult to say exactly without lifting the wheels and moving them sideways and up/down. Could be a spring broken or other things.
My manual says 5W30, but 5W40 would also work alright depeding on where you are. Either way will be alright. With 5W40 is a bit thicker so less smoke most likely.
Hi what would cause a miss with no patten at all, sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesn't. Where one of the injectors sit theres like water or condensation, its not diesel or oil. No warning lights comes on so at a lose my m8 is. Many thanks
Could be quite a few things, difficult to tell, depends when it is hapenning. The water, if it is like water, maybe coolant or water is finding its way. Probably good to fix that as the water will corrode stuff in there or it will turn it in some hard calcium deposit.
@moremolecules will a icarsoft multi system car diagnostic tool, its the FR V2.0 specialist designed for French and Italian cars. Many thanks. Also it will allow you to look at all diesel injector readings so is there a chart that could tell if an injector is underperforming? Many thanks.
@moremolecules yea think that's the black brownish colour around the bottom of the injector where they sit is burnt carbon? I'm pretty sure it needs a new seal there on that number 3 injector as there's no where else water or anything would cause a small bit of liquid at the bottom of where the injector is. plus that's a small amount of liquid that would have evaporated away, with the heat from the engine. No smell of any diesel from it either. May aswell take all the injectors out to see what condition they are in and whether any seal needs doing on the bottom seals. any if gone apart from the one which is gone, I personally think. We have a computer which can reprogram injectors, pdf regeneration and re-set, oil reset and so on. It also allows an instant read out of every injectors. Like injector 1 is at +2. Something but the second injector will have a minus line - then the reading of the injector performance. Is it possible to match each injector readings to a chart to find out if they are working A1? So sorry I just forgot I said about that computer before it's been a long day lol I've just nipped around to my m8s who's account this is as my phones in the shop at the moment being fixed so its hard then to be able to communicate with anyone.
@@deanandrew-gr1ch Yes, you can use the injector readings as an indication. They are correction values nd for good working injectors they should be in the range of +/-1, so if one is +2 would mean that it is probably quite blocked as the ECU is opening that quite a bit more than the others. Unlikely to be water, that would evaporate very quickly on the hot engine. Might be just starting to chuff, so not yet diesel/exhaust smell, but with time it will eat more and more of the seal and you will get the smell and more burnt carbon.
Well, those two reasons are true. But you for get about biggest one and thats oil pan. You have to replace it to straight one so you can change your oil fully and also delete that Iron thing in oil tubes to turbo.
I agree with the pan, but it does not make that much of a difference. If you replace the oil (straight pan or not) you literally within 100 miles get black oil. 50 odd ml of old oil left is not going to make that much of a difference when you put 3.5-3.7L inside of a new oil. Now the mesh, there are two designs of that filter, metal mesh and a bigger plastic filter. The metal mesh needs to be raplaced with the new design filter. It has much bigger surface and much more difficult to get blocked. Now removing it, well, it serves a purpose this filter, when you remove it, yes oil flow will be better but any particles will end up in the turbo itself and cause the problem there. I did replace my turbo cartridge, but did not remove the oil line filter and I really thought about it for a long time.
@@moremoleculesTrue. I replaced my pan with straight and bigger one. So now i have aprox. 4.3 liters of oil. I have Partner 2017 Outdoor 4x4 so there steel cage under engine from 3mm thick steel.
@@moremoleculesAlso with this kind of cars is there one big problem. Thats location of NOx ECU under car. I moved mine so its not splashed with water. Also this ECU is mostly fixable by opening it and clean if there is problem with NOx. I hate when i see videos when peoples call service and they replace it for 200 - 300$. To days service isnt about fixing anymore, its about changing for new.
@@moremolecules Well, there is Lambda senzor with its ECU on same position. Same thing is for diesel aditive, pump and electronics are under car on bad spot. If you ride in snow, its full of ice in some minutes and after time its leaking inside. Everyelectronic circuit on Partners and Berlingos got poor water proof. I know NOx is only in BlueHDI, but other elektronic under cas is vulnerable too.
Fairly thin, but not too sure about the correct mm. Generally, depending on how much one needs to shave the seat, there may need two washers instead of one.
Can you please tell me where that cable from the wastegate goes? It looks like it goes around on the back but theres nothing to connect too i have a c max 1.6 tdci the engine looks exactly like yours any tips ?
It is exactly the same engine apart from the slight redesign of the air intake in the 1.6 TDCi. Which cable is that? If it is looking like a pipe is the vacuum pipe that drives the wastegate and it goes back to the lower right of the engine (looking from front top) and connects to the turbo solenoid. If that is the 92bhp engine of course.
@@jp.med1a If it is not the 110bhp, as that is the slightly different model turbo, the pipe definitely goes to the turbo solenoid at the right lower back, kind of brownish like octopus-type looking part.
It could be loose or split vacuum hose to wastegate or solenoid. First check if the wastegate is operating correctly: ruclips.net/video/WLsMzdKgI1o/видео.html
im Here as i have a mk2 1.6tdci 61plate And i have abit of oil Sitting in the pockets around injector 1 and 4 So if anyone has any knowledge how to resolve this i would really appreciate it
The most effective and right way is to replace the copper washer at the bottom. Otherwise you could tighten the nuts a bit, but this is only temporary.
I'm changing my turbo tomorrow (it's gone again) after 2 years Do I remove sump? I did the last time that s time oil hasn't got metal in But the last time was lots of metal in oil, also I've removed intercooler has a lot of oil in it I had to remove from top, air con pipes below
I would say that you need to clean everything, from the oil, oil pickup, banjo bolt filters. Crucially you also need to clean the vacuum pump as well, as metal bits go there as well. Also, make sure that with the new turbo there is at least 300ml flow of oil through the turbo. Basically, you put the new turbo and everything and run the engine for 1min with the turbo oil return disconnected in a jar. Measure how much it is returned, it should be at least 300ml. Make sure that the engine has enough oil before doing this. I would remove the sump and clean everything. Also, once the new turbo is in, drive it for ~300miles and replace the oil and oil filter again to remove any small metal bits that might clog the banjo bolt filter. Also, depending on the model and year if yours has the old-style filter (metal mesh) either replace it with the new longer plastic version or remove it altogether. Perhaps some of those can be seen here: ruclips.net/video/Q7S0qDBo314/видео.html It is a series of 5 videos how I replaced mine, but it does not include the vacuum pump and the 300ml check.
@@moremolecules thank you for your replys Today I removed sump and a small gold peice of metal was in sump I also washed out intercooler it was black Washed sump out sealer on sump back on Remove turbo feed pipe plastic type gause blocked up and think ill leave out Hopefully have all back together tomorrow thanks very much Adam
@@adamwort7160 If it is a second turbo, you need to know why it is failing, otherwise you will have to do another one. Wash everything and of course see if the injectors are not leaking. The gold piece, not too sure about that, it may be a magnet on the sump bolt to capture any metal pieces not to swirl around. Make sure everything is clean. The banjo bolt, it is 50:50 call, if you have metal pieces in the sump it will go to the turbo and block it there eventually. Otherwise it will be blocked at the filter, either way it will not be good.
@@moremolecules as far as I know this Berlingo has had 4 turbos When new then replaced when I bought car that lasted 30 mins because they hadn't even changed the oil I went on Berlingo forum why does this keep going? Last time I fitted second hand turbo with genuine feed pipe still both on turbo But I didn't know about the gause only this evening see gause it's blocked but I can degrease and fit? Not sure if my shop sells new ones
@@adamwort7160 I suspect you can degrease/clean it and re-use it. It is a simple mesh. Definitely do not re-use the metal small mesh, that was superseeded by the longer plastic mesh. Yes, you will have some carbon clumps in the engine, whether this is from injector seals or something else, difficult to know, but you need to be certain everything is clean. If not, then it will be blocked again. Change oil and oil filter a few times every say 300miles, that would help clean any remnants of clumps.
Hi bro just I have a class mercedes a180 2014 w176 petrol engine sport my vehicle turbo when I accelerating the turbo making sound like whistling or dentist drill what can be bad on my car turbo please??
I have a 1.4 hdi 16v in my 2004 C3 XTR, it's really an early version of the 1.6 HDi 16v, the upper cylinder head (housing the cams) is actually the exact same part number for example. However it has an unbelievable bad design oversight: the plastic intake manifold is a bit bigger, and blocks access to the top row of injector retainer bolts :( The only way to access those is to remove the entire intake, which also means removing the high-pressure lines, the low-pressure returns, the plastic cover for the head, the airbox and the EGR tube. I'm honestly considering modifying mine to use a 1.6 intake manifold, the 8 intake ports are in exactly the same locations and they use the same rubber seals etc. About the banjo bolts, do both of them house a filter ?
I feel for you, believe me. They are designed in a way to deter your average joe to tinker with cars. As far as I know they all have the banjo bolt mesh, it is there to limit the occasional bits and pieces clogging the turbo shaft. Some people remove them altogether, but I really thought about it very long and could not decide what to do. All in all I decided to keep the new mesh design in. The longer plastic version, not the old metal mesh.
Pretty sure he said in video, only the lower one has a filter. I've only had the upper banjo bolt off and there was no filter but still had some build up of sludge I could scrape out.
Very good question. It is a tough one and I have pondered a bit on this one. For the 1.6HDi the recommended one is 5W30 and that is what I have used. 5W40 is also fine to use and it is a little bit thicker, so less chance of the oil to go through seals, turbo for example or valve stem seals. I have always used 5W30 as it was recommended and never had problems, well perhaps I need to start using 5W40 as I have a puff of blue smoke on startup, most likely valve stem seals or a little bit of oil being passed through the turbo seals. Now, I have only seen the low SAP oils in the 5W30 and not the 5W40, so that is why I have not yet tried it. All in all, it is not a problem and probably a little bit better to use 5W40.
@@moremolecules sorry I couldn't get back to you earlier, this is the original post "I have a 2009 1.6HDI 207 90HP WITHOUT a particulate filter:). The Peugeot handbook recommends I use Engine Oil to ACEA A3/B4 & PSA's B71 2296, standards but is vague about the oil viscosity - it shows a chart which 'authorises'(!) 10W-40, 5w-40, 0W-30 and even the 5W-30 engine oil which must be used on the FAP version! The Peugeot chart showing the recommended viscosities vs ambient temperature seems to say I can use any of these oils! Is this right? What engine oil should I be using on a new(ish) 1.6HDI Non-FAP?" so according to this owners manual the 5w30 is aparently best suited for Diesel Particulate filter engines, so I'm changing it to 5w40 c3, and next time I change my dads citroen C-elysee that has roughly the same 1.6hdi I will be switching from 5w30 to 5w40 aswell, thank you for your time, looking forward to keeping watching your content in the future
@@therealxicojorge Yes, you are correct in all of these. Even though my and yours and non-FAP versions I stuck with 5W30 low SAPs due it being a cleaner oil, i.e. less sulfated things inside or less ash. With the 5W40 there are no low saps, as far as I have seen, so there will be a little bit more clogging on the exhaust side and the EGR. Maybe run every now and then the Italian tuneup😁
@@moremolecules I've been made aware of the less sulfated oils being better for these engines through your channel so thank you my friend and yes I'm having a bit of a hard time finding what I want and not paying 2 times the price of the low sulfate c2 5w30 not gonna lie, trying to explain all of this to someone who doesnt care about cars after just learning it myself has been a challenge too but again all that should matter to him is that his engine is gonna be happy and that he doesnt do my head in if it starts making problems from cheaping out on maintenance I'm already doing it for a couple of beers and it takes like 30min max its not like he's worried about labour costs, anyway. thanks for the great responses, the search for the oil low sap c3 5w40 continues
@@therealxicojorge Yeah ,that is why my original reply started with I have pondered on this for quite a bit. I do not think there is really an easy answer here. The non-FAP versions take without a problem the 5W40, say the Total Quarts 9000. For the FAP ones, it needs to be the low saps, 5W30, the Ineo ECS. In general it is because the sulfates and ash will clog eventually the DPF of the FAP ones. We do not have DPF, so safer, but then again the higher content of ash in the 9000 oil will line up the exhaust pathway and the EGR. Probably not too much of a problem, as if one blasts the rpms to say >5,000 these carbon particles will be blown out. Yes, the EGR will need more frequent cleaning. Now, the positive of the 5W40 is that it is a little bit thicker and the exhaust will smoke less, due to the thickness less oil will pass through the turbo seals and the valve stem seals. So, less blue smoke at the back of the exhaust. I do have a little bit of blue smoke coming out on cold startup, so probably I will try the 5W40, just to see if it is going to make a difference.
A blocked bajno bolt filter would very quickly lead to a catastrophic failure of the turbo shaft, due to no oil lubrication and cooling. Strange noises, could be anything really.
Its important to change the OIL. there is another problem with this enginen 1.4 and 1.6: The design of the oil pan: It doesnt allow to drain the oil completly, there is always something left. I think at some point you have to remove the oil pan to drain it.
Hi, thanks for the video. I have got a 2019 Peugeot 3008. I have DTC Crankcase Fumes Heater Control - Open Circuit. The valve cover that has the cranckase breather - round thing with zigzig locker opposite the engine oil filler cap is leak oil. Is it possible this is throwing this DTC?
Yeah, difficult to say, but most likely that is the culprit for the DTC. You need to see why it is leaking oil from the cap. It means that you have too much crankcase pressure, but this could be from a number of things, for example your DPF could be blocked, so resulting in some back pressure.
@@partoems9376 You could take the zig-zag cap off and see if the membrane is intact and the spring is not broken. Rare this would happen, but you never know. Difficult to say from a distance, but there must be some sort of back pressure so the crankcase is under excessive pressure. I am not too familiar with the newer 1.2 petrol, but there must be like a catalyst converter. That could be blocked, although unlikely.
Funny enough Volvo recommends Castrol 5w30 ACEA A5 oil which is a full SAPS but low HTHS lubricant, opposed to the PSA recommendation. Volvo also have less faults related to the this engine, but that can be contributed to the Volvo being more high-end car and owners just taking better care.
Well, how do you define "have less faults related to this engine". It is the same engine at the end of the day. Exactly the same engine, so difficult to say why they would have less faults, unless as you say people are taking better care of their cars, i.e. oil changes on time as comapred to your ""average" Peugeot driver that say, "ahh, the hell with it, it is a Peugeot, it does not need an oil change". I would be more inclined to use low SAPs oils, as there are sumply less amount of the sulfur to go and create a mess. More "high-end car", I really doubt that for the recent models, all made in China, but the older ones, maybe, At the end of the day it is the perception of it all, not are they actually a better model of a car. Why is there another brand of DS (essentially Citroen) or Cupra (essentially Seat/Volkswagen). Simply the perception of some of these being higher end model cars or higher performance whatever. Undeneath, same stuff, just packaged in a nicer-looking badge package.
@moremolecules Volvos are a high end cars and they are not made in China but in Sweden and Belgium for EU market (not that the origin country makes any product . Full SAPS oils start with higher TBN and usually retain that number higher in service- but I'm sure you know that as you know why were low and mid SAPS oil introduced. Had nothing with wear on the engine. And lastly, engines are the same except that one are built in France and Ford had theirs from Germany. So only difference is maintenance and , what I've already mentioned in my first post, different specification of engine oil.
@@euro4by4hr78 Aha, have a look at the initial reliability index (e.g. here: www.jdpower.com/business/press-releases/2024-us-initial-quality-study-iqs), yes it is in the US, but for a high end car, Volvos should be also good in the US.
Low sap is basically oil with low content of Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous, and Sulphur. As long as the specs on the bottle match, it is not a problem to use another brand.
@@moremolecules I used Castrol Edge 5W30 LL Titanium full synthetic that supports acea c3 standard. But I did not notice Low SAP mentioned. Is this ok ?
@@daviddilparic3930 Probably it is ok. If the standard if the same it should be ok. Now this low saps might be a marketing thing, so I would not be too bothered about that. I think the standard is what matters.
@@daviddilparic3930 Difficult to tell if one is better than another. I had awhile back an experiment with taking oil samples every 1,000 miles and sending it to a company for chemical analysis, but did not do it with another oil. I started using total and have not changed since, just a habit, nothing else.
Hey! Just had the injectors Serviced , they put 2 new ones. Mechanic removed all the gunk around them - engine now runs pretty smooth and area around is nice and clean 🧼
You are probably right, but i dont get it how that carbon build up comes in contact with the oil. In my understanding the gases comes through the failed copper wash and going in the athmosphere. How comes that the oil get contaminated
The injector tube is not integral to the top of the engine, in other words, there is a rubber o-ring that should prevent any carbon going in the crankcase. Nevertheless, gasses and other stuff from the combustion become really hard substance and forces its way through the rubber seal and end up in the crankcase oil. Some of course end up in the atmosphere, but the longer it is left the more might end up in the crankcase oil. That is why it is quite crucial for the seal to be replaced as soon as it is noticed.The whole thing boils down to that this rubber seal that seals the injector tube from the crankcase is not perfect.
@@moremolecules If i get you correctly there is opening in the cylinder head which is sealed throgh the rubber o-ring. OK but why there is any opening, why not like the spark plug in the petrol engine. Only one copper ring and that is it? Any function?
@@courcheveller Because you have to be able to remove the head and do some repairs. If the two are one piece you would not be able to remove the head to do repairs. There is a copper seal at the bottom and one plastic kind of o-ring and a rubber o-ring at the top. That is it. It is the same as petrol engines, not that different, but the compression in the diesel especially the HDi is huge compared to a petrol engine. There is a spark in the petrol engine, where in the diesel is compression only.
@@moremolecules What I mean a year prior, is the design of newer psa 8v head 1.6hdi, there is not possible that blow by come into contact with oil because injector hole is one piece in the head from combustion chamber to the top, like spark plugs in petrol engines with only copper ring. No point of contact with crankcase oil no need of that rubber seal. If you have blow by through copper ring, all that goes away without chance of mixing with oil. I did not imagine that in 16v all that can be made like it is made. The head design of 16v is definitive extremely prone to expensive turbo failures.
@@courcheveller Yes, it has been designed like that unfortunately and a stupid copper washer to cause all these things. I think later models they realised the mistake and fixed it, but the earlier models suffer from that issue.
is this one of reasons why car start to throtling in drive like he want to stop due to changing gears or when gas pedal are not pushed or clutch are bad!? i have one injector leaked preetty much but black oil get hardened
@@moremolecules i hope so , because when i pull of foot from gas pedal and press clutch sometimes it start shakes or like lose power , its not all the time then occasionally and once 2 days ago was that message on central screen about low oil pressure !! so changing oil filter and engine oil could solve that problem??
@@Mr11ESSE111 Generally this has happenned to me before, I did not tighten the filter correctly and I got low oil pressure. Basically a little bit of gap was there, the filter cap was not screwed correctly. I would say switch off, let it cool down overnight and the oil to drop back to the sump and take filter cap off and put back again. You would need need some rags for the oil that will be spilled.
Hi Chris, the turbo failure my HDI 1.6 engine has is P1497 en P2562. after 10 seconds running the car in neutral on 30k rmp the turbo fails. Is this the same problem as what you are describing?
I think the vanes of your turbo might be sticking rather than overall turbo failure. You have a VNT turbo, a bit more sophisticated than mine and more powerful of course. The problem I am describing is a bit different.
@@moremolecules ah okay thank you very much for responding. I saw another video of yours where you described the problem that I had. It is the actuator which was too tight or too loose. After removing the heat shield I loosend the pipe that opens and closes the valve a bit and now the error messages are gone.
@@moremolecules this is your video that helped me solve the problem. The waste gate actuator arm was the problem. ruclips.net/video/WLsMzdKgI1o/видео.html
I part exchange my peugeot 307 1.6hdi 2005 last week with 182000 + mileage with orginal turbo, injectors, engine, gearbox still working perfect. I bought this car in 2014 with 123000 milage and read common faults on different forums. Then change turbo oil feed pipe and remove plastic filter (old one has gauza mesh type filter) also change oil pick up pump in sump. Always use 5w30 c2 low saps oil and serviced between 4k. . .5k. Every single time engine oil flush and check injectors holding 8 bolts if bit loose then tight up nicely. Again my daughter bought peugeot 2008 1.6 e-hdi 2014 with 132k miles on clock. This engine is 8 valves (old peugeot 307 was 16 valve). Really i didn't want to buy diesel same engine but daughter like the car so buy again😮. Just want to stick with same servicing schedule. I heard that 8 valves engine has less problems then 16 valves 🤞. What you think can i change turbo oil feed pipe and remove little filter as i did before and oil pick up pump in sump. Regards
Yeah, the 8valve ones are a changed design and as far as I know much less prone to turbo failures, so I would not worry too much about changing oil pick and so on. Even on mine when I changed the turbo filter, there not a single speck of anything, so I could have kept it. If you stick to servicing it as you have, I would not worry too much about it.
@@moremolecules Thank you very much sir for reply 👍. Yesterday i did serviced to peugeot 2008 1.6e-hdi. When i checked air filter and cabin filter i shocked fully blocked and diesel filter same. (I believe after dealers 3 years servicing nobody thouch this car except mot. But service history of local garage (Coventry) show 4 years record till last month which is fully . . . . My daughter ring garage they said this car never come to us for servicing or for other work. Strange . . .
@@arshadmahmood1845 The e-HDi is not 2008, but probably 2014. Yes, the dealership will do that. I had mine serviced for 4 years at dealers and then started doing my own. The air filter was so black that it was never replaced.
@@arshadmahmood1845 It definitely does not have a lambda oxygen sensor, but not too sure about the tank thingy. Could it be that you overfilled it and the breather filter has clogged?
Great video about turbo maintance my peugeot brother 🙏Also what I do wanna ask you something interesting Wich I heard from some is that driving the car for short distances like for example in city's. Can Also damage the turbo?🙄
Short drives would not be detrimental to the turbo, but it might be to the DPF if you have one. Also, the oil get diluted more with condensation, so it is not optimal. With longer driving the water condensate in the oil evaporates and performs better.
@@moremolecules I see so it only affects the dpf and EGR valve ,also btw 5w30 vs 5w40 oil Wich u think is better since my car has high millage no dpf to btw
@@dracony7649 Good question, I have always used 5w30, but 5w40 is also alright. Less smoke with the 5w40. I would use 5w40 if I can find one with low saps, but as far as I know only the 5230 is low in saps.
I'm gona' go ahead and ask... Any common fault that leads to high oil consumption on these engines ? Last 10 000 km I had to refill about 2liters which is crazy. No visible leaks under the car or anywhere on the engine. Only thing that I had noticed is a bit smoke when first starting the car in the morning but that lasts about ~30 seconds and is white. Any suggestion or direction I can check ?
This is rather too much. Are you sure that it is not leaking and pooling somewhere. I would check for any oil in the coolant, in case you might have a blown gasket. If it burns that much, it should really blow blue smoke on acceleration. Check if by any chance the sump bolt is not leaking.
@@moremolecules quick update. Definitely no oil leaking from underneath engine or any visible oil trace, as far as viewing from the bonnet. No changes in liquid heights for coolant or other liquids in the car. Morning starts are always with a blueish smoke that lasts a couple of seconds and after that no trace of smoke, even under high power/acceleration. Now here is new thing, driving agressively on the motorway in 5th gear at around 130kmph and going up the car emitted STOP and oil pressure warning on screen ( didn't manage to read fully ) and automatically shut off. I pulled over to the emergency lane, checked the engine but nothing visible. I removed the intake and checked for oil but only thin oil inside, not enough for even oil drop to come out. Checked turbo movement, all ok. Removed the pipe leading to intercooler for oil and only tiny oil film, not even dropping. Started the car and everything was fine other than check engine light ( probably error in ecu ). Anyway, went on to drive for about a couple of days since I was at the other side of the country and nothing happened. Speed up to 100kmph and all was fine. Will try to take to mechanic before new year, I suspect either oil filter clog or oil pump "filter" in sump. Will see. Still no idea why su much oil consumption. Heh, maybe old engine, pushing almost 400 000km. Will update after mechanic checks car.
@@dENd0Mania You are loosing an insane amount of oil, somehow. With that amount of oil lost it is either spilling somewhere or being burnt in the engine. If it is burnt you will see it in the rear view mirror, it will be huge amounts of blue smoke. If it is leaking somewhere you should be able to see it. There are no other options. How do you check the oil level, cold engine and dipstick?
I can’t believe I found this guy. He is amazing. He is so full in-depth in his instructions and goes over and above in all steps. I removed and cleaned, replaced my EGR yesterday after watching this guys video. I got the dreaded faulty anti pollution message and since cleaning the EGR and resetting the code it runs brilliant. He saved me hundreds of pounds and it went like a dream. I can’t thank him enough.
Hey thank you for the kind words, much appreciated! I try to make videos that when I watch I can do the stuff without needed any more instructions.
Am si eu un peugeot 307 am inlocuit egr si nu tine decat aproximativ 300 km supa care apare mesajul anti poluare
cum as putea sa fac Va multumesc
@@gheorghelapadat4061 You probably need to recalibrate it
Hello, I have a 1.6hdi 2008 diesel. Everything works fine but want start when motor is warm!
Have to wait 90 -120 minutes!
Peugeot told me change egr! Did not help! When starting hot motor cranks for a second and goes out! I believe it must be s sensor or relay preventing diesel to reach motor! Any clew what I can search?
Finding this channel was like finding gold. I did some work on my mini based on your advice and found some minor issues. Now waiting for parts to arrive and replace them. Anyways... Love the channel!
Thank you Viktor much appreciated. It is upto youtube to recommend it.
My van passed just over 300 000km. It was driven most of its life on open roads. Used that oil all the time. Changed oil every 10 000km, changed all the fluids when it had 150 000km on a big service. Now i pulled off the head to get the it checked for lifter noise. The cylinfers look clean, no scoring, no carbon buildup. Original turbo on the car. Cams have no wear. Only worn out part are the injectors and i sent theme to be refurbished. I might have caused it since the van was driving at least 40 000km on a 50/50 mix of used vegetable oil and diesel due to me beeing very broke at the time.
Had to replace the oil pan since i stripped the plug somehow and the back collant pipe that runs behind the engine. Also replaced the front rocker cover due to it leaking oil.
Your channel was really helpfull with diagnosing the smoke issue on cold starts.
Bought. 1.6hdi Berlingo last week and came across this channel just few days ago. So much info in one place, well explained. Brilliant work!
This is the best psa engine channel on youtube for sure!
I had a turbo fail when driving fairly hard, to blow the soot out of the exhaust on the way to the cars MOT test (UK annual test). The very obvious sign of failure was that I had to change down gears on hills & would barely reach 60 mph. Interestingly it passed the MOT test. The failure was the turbo shaft broken at the exhaust side.
I got an Ebay used turbo for 40GBP. (Jan 2022). Drained engine oil while hot. Replaced oil filter. Refilled oil.
Next day when old drained oil was cold, (winter) the entire volume of the oil was a jelly, not a liquid. No doubt that's due to the oil contamination due to leaking injectors as explained in this video. (Leaking injectors found 5 weeks later).
Changing the turbo on this engine is one of the easiest jobs ever! Rather than undoing any exhaust manifold bolts or replacing exhaust gaskets (that I didn't get with a used turbo), I removed the clamp around the exhaust turbo housing, on the original turbo & also on the replacement turbo. So I just replaced the entire inlet side of the turbo with the center bearing & both impellers but reused the outside (rusty) steel exhaust casting of the old turbo. (Which remains bolted to the exhaust manifold & the cat).
Cleaned some sludge from top oil banjo union & its bolt. (Didn't touch the lower union at this time).
With the turbo removed, I checked oil feed... Put the turbo oil feed banjo union in an empty jar. So that I could let the starter turn the engine without starting the engine, I removed the immobiliser chip from the ignition key. (You might be able to just wrap the key in foil but I haven't tried that. You might be able to unplug all the injectors - but I'm not sure that's safe for the ECU). Turned the engine over for a few seconds & checked a reasonable amount of oil was in the (previously empty) jar.
Fitted the turbo & oil feed. (Reused old vacuum waste gate actuator).
Turn the engine over again on the starter for a few seconds to get oil to the turbo bearing. Refit the immobiliser chip in the ignition key. With the vacuum tube removed from the turbo actuator, start the engine. With the engine running note the position of the waste gate lever, reconnect the vacuum tube and check the lever moves. Refit covers, job done.
18 months later (when changing the clutch) I had the cat off & took the opportunity to take the entire turbo oil feed pipe off, clean the pipe & the lower banjo with the wire gauze filter. Nothing unusual. Blew it through with compressed air, then brake cleaner.
5 weeks after changing the turbo, I found I had a "chuffing" injector leak. I had to drive with all 4 windows open due to the exhaust fumes, so that wasn't something that was going to continue to chuff for more than a few days! Also moderate "tar" around 2 injectors.
Initially tightening the injector clamp nuts to 7Nm, stopped the chuffing sound but could still smell exhaust in the car. Eventually had them all tightened to 14Nm. Tightened with engine hot, immediately after a 15+ mile drive. Repeated the hot tightening several times (different days) until no more movement at 14Nm. Then check every 6 months or so, at 14Nm with engine hot. (Generally little or no movement).
The reason for engine hot, is so that the "tar" is somewhat soft, which allows the injector to move a bit more each time towards it's proper position, with the proper pressure on the copper washer to achieve an effective seal.
This was 2 years ago. No further leaks. No injector copper washers or seals were replaced.
Many thanks indeed for sharing this, really appreciated! It will work if caught early on, then one can tighten the injectors. The soft pliable copper washer can be crushed a bit further in, so it will reduce/stop exhaust gasses coming through. I suspect it can be done only once, if it comes back again, it is probably taking out the injectors. Hopefully not.
@@moremolecules Point taken about the copper washer probably not sealing just by tightening, if it ever leaks again. I intend to keep checking the injector clamp torque every few months for the rest of its days, so it shouldn't leak again.
Perhaps the biggest risk is I might use the torque wrench with the wrong setting & break a stud. Hopefully I would think to check if any of the nuts ever moved much.
Just bought an old Partner and I need to do a lot of work on it so I have a lot of questions. I got just about all the answers from watching these videos. Amazing! All I need to do now is find some diagnostic software to manage the electrical systems.
Lots on ebay, cheap Chinese Diagbox diagnostic adapters, but you would need Windows 7/XP to have it working.
Absolutely perfect description and explanation...thanks so much!
Amazing info. I don't even have a car with this engine (mine has the DW10 2.0 BlueHDI), but I've heard so much about failing injector seals in these engines that I wanted to learn a bit about it, and thanks to you, now I know.
Hi Chris..😜.. Brilliant video as usual.. Just like to add something.. If the turbo fails be sure to clean the oil pan and the oil pickup filter as mine did not get cleaned by the mechanic and sure enough the new turbo failed in 3 months.. The second time around I did the job myself and found the oil pickup filter clogged like crazy causing oil pressure problems. Since I cleaned it out the car has been running like a dream.. Hope this helps someone in a similar situation. Thanks again for the video and keep up the good work.. Cheers
Hahaha, thank you. Yes that is completely true and thank you for the comment. I have a mini-series (5 videos, N1 ruclips.net/video/Q7S0qDBo314/видео.html) that adds this as a check when one is replacing the turbo.
Good shout. Did you replace the oil pickup or simply clean it?
@@moremoleculesyeah it’s also interesting that Ford engineers didn’t like the mesh in the turbo oil feed pipe so all Ford, Volvo and Mazda cars that had this engine were never fitted with that mesh/ gauze then a year later Peugeot did the same lol 😂
@@gimble447 Yeah, those meshes are actually important. They were placed so on new engines to capture any metal swirl going around the engine from manufacturing. Unfirtunately, most dealers and garages could not be bothered to clean it and change oil within 200-300mils from new. THen you have all these problems. Ford thought, yeah, let's not bother with this, so sometimes you would get these metal flakes (little) going to the turbo itself. This gauze was never meant to be permanent.
Haha, or at least that was my understanding on how this went from rumours on the great web thingy...
@@moremolecules 180k miles on my Volvo V50 1.6d and original turbo just starting to whine a little now but still pulling like a train, maintenance more important than the gauze as the gauze is only safe if you never miss an oil change and let’s face it 90% of people still running around in cars with this engine will have missed some services by now so I’d be wary of buying an earlier car with those fitted tbh
Very well illustrated and good quality video.😊
Thank you very much for the information. There is a whistling sound in my turbo. I just had the turbo done. Probably the tires on the injector end may be worn out, I will check them all
Great advice on checking the injectors.
The best way to look after your turbo is frequently oil change helps and a catch can on iv had alot of hdi and always done this and had no problems whatsoever 👍
How do you put oil catch can on this engine
Here is how: ruclips.net/video/QdxyAHP1DVM/видео.html
I've had this oil catch can setup for ~2 years now and it is not difficult to do. My previous installation (a bit ugly): ruclips.net/video/VEoO7-fmMkc/видео.html
I did that with the oil catch can. About 50ml of honey like oil trapped in 10.000km
@@littlereptilian7580 Sounds about right, but you would be surprised how 50ml of oil + the ash from the EGR can create a huge mess and coat everything. In other words, a lot of restricted air intake pathways
@@moremolecules you should erase EGR and DPF to forget about so many problems
Great summary of the situation with this engine, and entirely consistent with my experiences too. I would add is the following:
If you have carbonised oil inside the camshaft chamber following injector seal leakage, this really needs to be removed, otherwise it will be perpetually breaking-up and contaminating fresh oil. The problem is that getting those crazy injector studs out (M6 one end/M7 the other) to remove the cover is right pain, as is the fact that the camshafts are mounted on the underside of the cover, so it's cambelt off etc etc. I got advice from one forum: "The only solution is to clean the engine within an inch of its life!" and that's what I had to do. It's also important to remove the oil pan and clean-up the oil strainer. Further, it's worth modifying the sump as, being a steel pressing, the female thread is raised forming a 'bund' which prevents full drainage of engine oil and, in particular, carbonised oil debris. So I reckon that if you fully clean the engine, the normal oil change interval will be fine. It's not an inherently dirty engine as many have suggested, just that the injector seals may leak!
In my book it's necessary to recut the injector seal seats in the cylinder head before fitting new copper washers.
In my case, the first indication I had of carbonised oil causing problems was low oil pressure: the warning light came on. So with my Citroen C5 I fitted an oil pressure gauge to give me a first indication of any possible issues.
If you have an injector which is 'chuffing' i.e. leaking severely, you will also see carbon fragments in the underside of the engine cover: a dead easy thing to check.
Great stuff and many thanks indeed for the really detailed explanation and comment, much appreciated!
I had a "chuffing" injector and no contamination of the engine cover. Perhaps if it's driven for months like that. I had to drive with all 4 windows open, so that wasn't something that was going to continue to chuff for more than a few days!
This was over 2 years ago. Initially tightening the 8 injector clamp nuts to 7Nm, stopped the chuffing but could still smell exhaust in the car. Eventually had them all tightened to 14Nm. Tightened engine hot, immediately after a 15+ mile drive. Repeated the hot tightening several times (different days) until no more movement at 14Nm. Then check every 6 months or so at 14Nm with engine hot. (Generally little or no movement).
The reason for engine hot, is so that the "tar" is somewhat soft, which allows the injector to move a bit more each time towards it's proper position, with the proper pressure on the copper washer.
Excellent, thorough & clear advice that makes total sense. Thank you 🍻
Brilliant video and explanation, this can also apply to a lot of diesel engines, I have the ‘crusty deposit’ around one of my injectors and will be fitting new seals very soon ! Thank you - and this channel deserves a lot more subscribers !!!!
Thank you for the good words, much appreciated!
Personally, i change the oil on our 2010 4007 2.2 HDi (130,000 miles) just every 9,000 miles/15,000 km. But i stick to the Total Oil you mentioned. It runs really well, no oil consumption. And also, it is not a big deal of changing it.
Too long i change oil on 1.6 hdi every 7k km
Excellent video. Your videos and the way you explain and show things bu far are the best for this engine. Thank you
You sir are amazing.. well explained and a pleasure to watch and listen to you .
My theory is that Excessive crankcase pressure from a faulty egr valve and or pcv valve will prevent or reduce the amount of oil that can return to the sump.
If the crankcase is pressurised it will blow back up the oil return hose.
A tip for removing the injector is to shock the studs with a chisel to break the set then use an e torx to wind the injector stud out little by little acting like a draw bolt against the injector clamp.
Thanks. My tubro broke exactly because of that so this is 100% accurate
Thanks for the informative video. The question, where do we need that turbo oil line banjo mesh filter? The oil is anyway filttered. Does this "banjo filter" work as the "last chance filter" in an aviation jet engines? Better to remove that filter in order to prevent oil starvation? "Any oil is better than no oil".
Great info! Many thanks.
I have replaced 2 of the copper seals in the last year after signs of the black tar, and slight chuffing, fumes in the car, have also checked the torque on other injectors.
Just wanted to ask if re cutting the seating surface is always necessary? mine looked good after a thorough clean so I just replaced the copper seal without re cutting the seat. is that ok if the leak wasn't too bad? the first one I did has been leak free for a year now.
Thanks.
No you do not need to recut the seat, but of course it depends on how long it was chuffing. The longer it is the more opportunity the gasses have to eat the metal and then you need to recut it in order for the seat to be level and the washer to make a clean contact. The cutting is also needed of there have been carbon deposit as well, but is it is clean whe the new washer was put in, then it should be ok.
If it has been clean for so long now it is absolutely fine.
Many thanks.@@moremolecules
I'd place the cutter inside and hand turn it with no pressure. This way your not cutting down any more but if there is any tinny uneven areas it will sort it out. Ps pup some grease on the end so any bits stick to the cutter rather than drop in the chamber
Excellent video, thank you. I have the Ford 1.6 TDCi and this weekend I`m gonna inspect those Banjo pipes, not having thought about that possible cause of turbo failure. I do have some tar around the injectors so it is a caused for concern. I would have to address that, sooner than later... Oil and filter changes I do every 5000km. Car now has 337000 km. Subscribe button smashed !
Hey thank you. Yes, definitely have a look at these seals.
Thank you Chris you’re star material 😀💪 and thanks for the condensed version of the problems with the 1.6 Hdi
Hahaha, thank you!
Hi I totally agree with regular oil changes I do mine every 3 to 5 thousand and I’ve got a catch can, empty 3 times a year always a quarter full. Brilliant explanation 👍👍👍👍👍👍
@Chris Partridge what's a catch can?
@@frederick864 a can that catches the old oil that you can close and empty at a safe location
Why wouldn't the oil filter stop the carbon deposits getting to the turbo? I thought it was a case of the oil pickup getting clogged causing oil starvation to the turbo.
Because it is something that fairly few people know. The oil filter has a bypass valve! If it gets too clogged and the flow of oil needs to still go, so it has a bypass valve, all the bits and pieces do not go through the filter. Hence, it is crucial to change oil lfrequently + the oil filter.
My fault, I did not include this in the video.
@moremolecules do you know what the little nipple on the oil filter is for? Is it just to help locate the filter when installing? I read somewhere some versions exist that have a tube outlet instead of just a plastic nipple.
@@norm4260 Yeah, not too sure, as far as I know it is just a location lug, nothing more, but may be wrong about this. For the 1.6HDi, I do not think there are more designs about there, but maybe, I am not the best expert on these 🙂
Nice video bro. Thank you very much. I did the seals replacement and it went well. However, i discovered diesel leaking of the diesel entry on the injector.
Do you know how can i solve it? Thank you
You could potentially nip the nut a little bit (if it was disturbed or undone), but preferably undo the nut, inspect and re-seat or change the fuel line itself.
Hi - just watched this great and very detailed video, as I'm doing injector service on my Peugeot 207. I notice that you state that the carbon buildup from a leaking seal can end up in the engine oil - how is that? As I see it, there is no contact between the injector and the engine oil, so... ?
My turbo got faulty after i overfilled a bit of the oil, and on top of that the seller got me the wrong oil for the car. Now it has no boost and there’s oil spilled around a lot of parts. Replaced the crankcase cover but oil is still coming through the PCV valve into the turbo intake manifold. Still can drive fine but very sluggish. There’s oil leaking in the turbocharger, smoke is being expelled from it since startup. Actuator vacuum seems ok, there’s no excessive play from the rotor, turbine is sucking in air just fine without any noises… Going to an autoshop would cost more than what the car is worth… I don’t know what to do to fix that.
Hi More Molecules! Thanks for the genuinely great videos! You are very knowledgeable about the 1.6HDI engine and I have one in my Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2010. However, this particular one suffers from a problem. There is a fuel leak. Diesel drips down from somewhere on the back of the engine and down onto the exhaust. The car shows two error codes P0093 (Fuel System Leak Detected Large Leak) and P0087 (Fuel Rail / System Pressure Too Low). I suspect the fuel harness to be the culprit but it's hard to see because everything is at the back of the engine. Is it possible to change that harness from above, so to speak, or is there any other way to access the back of the engine? When this more serious issue is out of the way, I'm going to fix the leaky crankcase breather, with a thicker O-ring, the way you showed, and I think there are some other issues that you have solutions for too. Anyway, thanks for all the videos! I hope you can find the time to answer my questions. /Mats
It could well be a leaky diesel fuel filter or something else. Pretty much all is at the back and rather difficult to do from the top or front. The C4 has limited access to the back, so it would be easier if you have a mirror and look where it leaks. It is leaking somewhere, so you may have to remove the airbox and have a better view. Do not remove the diesel filter and it may be leaking from there. Good luck
@@moremolecules Thanks!
Very good video! Straight to the point!
I've had my Peugeot 1.6 HDi 90 from new and it's now on 410,000km (256,000 miles). It blew its turbo at around 200,000km and the mechanic was convinced it was the quality of oil I had been using. While the oil met all the requirements (5W30, fully synthetic, ACEA C2, PSA B71 2290, etc.) and I changed it every 10,000km or 6 months, it was a supermarket brand (E.Leclerc here in France) and he was not impressed! So since then I have only been using the likes of Shell, Mobil, Total and so on. So far, so good.
Yes it could be, but when a turbo blows there is always some sort of a more concrete reason. I suspect the mechanic did not investigate fully why that hapenned. Blocked banjo bolt or something blocked somewhere or could be that you cover a lot of km/miles and there would be a limit to components of course. If the oil was meeting the specs it should have been good, but maybe. I always use reputable oil manufacturers, Total, etc., but the others should also be alright.
@@moremolecules I don't really doubt the mechanic - he's always been spot-on with everything he's done for me over the last ten years or so. I did ask him about the mesh filter but he said it was difficult to tell. He did replace it though with the long plastic one. The turbo had a massive failure and the oil filter was full of metal and ceramic. He had to do three oil and filter changes as well as a sump removal before he was happy there was nothing left before he fitted the new turbo.
@@ajkgordon Yes, sometimes is a bit difficult to tell. The failure is more often than not spectacular, say the shaft seizes and overheats, breaks in a place somewhere and the blades get to touch the metal casing and then these get thrown in the oil return, filter, etc. Unless is caught earlier, but difficult to do.
@@moremolecules I was very proud of mine at 400,000km but when I took it in the other day, he had an identical Partner in the workshop at 750,000km! Fantastic cars. Our next car will be the Rifter.
@@ajkgordon 750k, that is something...
Great video! well explained. These engines have a bad reputation but if you follow all the things you have explained they are a great little unit.
They have a reputation, but if taken care as you have said, they are great units that would run for a long time. No wonder Peugeot/Citroen/Ford/Mazda/Mini/Suzuki/Volvo all use the same 1.6HDi engines 🙂
Theres also a micro gauze filter in the oil feed pipe to turbo on some models...
Great job - as usual. Very instructive video. Thank you!
Would you please make a video about replacing vacuum hoses?
Brilliant informative video
Thanks you very much for your video and explanation. God bless you.
excellent advice, thank you
Great vlog. Its why I buy petrol mine also. 2007 berlingo 1.6 with 146k still runs fine just a bit gutless
I agree the 1.6 petrols are pretty stable, not much in there to go wrong. A bit gutless though and consumes quite a bit of petrol.
@@moremolecules japanese petrol engines with vvt have low consumption and high reliability. The perfect car would be a german one with a japanese engine.
@@AC-db4ek Yeah, maybe, parts will be difficult to get for the Japanese in Europe.
I agree that clogging of the turbo oil feed filter kills most turbos, I doubt that's related to the injector. However the biggest flaw of this otherwise solid engine is the oil volume of only 3,7 litres, which is far too little and the root cause for poor oil quality due to contamination with fuel and soot. Independent of mileage I believe that 2 oil services a year are mandatory.
Yes, the injector seal failures have been for awhile in the PSA bulletins. I agree that there is not enough oil in the 1.6HDis. Even my 1.6 Peugeot petrol engine has bigger capacity than the diesel.
@@moremolecules I know, I had to fix mine recently and of course it was the cylinder No.1. I just cannot imagine how the gunk that emerges from the seal should make it back into the oil circulation. Did you open the valve cover of your engine and have a look at the cams? I found mine to be shockingly worn, probably because the hydro lifters are blocked with oil residue and don't give enough way once the engine is hot. However, once worn it does not seem to get worse, as I could not find any metal chips in the oil or filter.
@@cyberbob4111 Yes, it took me really some time to work out how the gunk can go back in. The thing is that the injector tube is not integral to the head of the engine or crankcase, so there is a rubber seal that seals it from the crankcase. The gunk can pass that one and go into the crankcase oil and then the consequences of gunking the small turbo oil feed filter and the oil pickup as well. I had a look at the cams, but they look kind of alright, there are a bit worn, but they do not seem excessively so.
Perfect analysis
Hello, Very useful and informative video, thank you. With regards the Banjo bolt mesh filter......In your opinion is it sufficient to remove the wire mesh with a small screwdriver, and leave it without a filter OR should one ideally buy a plastic filter (as shown in your video) ? I would not know where to buy the plastic filter. Is it possible to remove the Banjo bolt which feeds oil to the turbo without removing the FAP ?? Once the oil line / tube has been drained of oil (by removing the banjo lower bolt), is it necessary to prime the oil feed to the turbo so it is not starved of oil when the engine is initially restarted ?? THANK YOU
Thank you for the comment and interesting questions. Difficult to answer some of these. I would ideally buy the replacement plastic mesh filter. It has been redesigned to allow bigger flow of oil and keep the turbo clean. If you remove the metal original mesh completely then yes, there will not be blockage of the mesh, but you risk small particles to go to the turbo. There should not be particles, but you never know.
The stuff that I used are in the description of the video, mostly from ebay.
I do not think you can get access to the banjo bolt without removing the exhaust and the alluminium shields.
There is no need to prime the actual pipe, but you prime the turbo itself, then it spins with oil inside. Initially there is not that much heat and the oil that is inside keeps it lubricated, then eventually a few secs, the pump will have put oil in the turbo.
Hope all these make sense, but let me know if something is not clear.
@@moremolecules Thank you for your replies. I cannot find the replacement plastic mesh filter in your links, please would you mind letting me have the link. Some people suggest that removing the original metal mesh helps achieve better turbo lubrication, and others state that you get more black smoke through the exhaust because there is too much oil flow to the turbo. (I am not too concerned about small particles getting to the turbo as I change the oil quite regularly). The plastic filter does seem to be a reasonable compromise.
It is a shame with today's engines you have to remove so many components to get to the one you wish to remove. I cannot understand why PSA designed the oil feed to the turbo behind the FAP !!! Understand that priming the turbo with oil by removing the Banjo bolt on the turbo will keep it sufficiently lubricated until the oil pump kicks in from the engine. Many thanks.
@@johnmcculloch4009 Yeah, sorry. The components are in a series of 5 videos I made on how to replace the turbo: ruclips.net/video/Q7S0qDBo314/видео.html
There you can see several links and towards the bottom you get the Nerings replacement kit: ebay.us/I75sFD
There are some other bits and pieces
Hello! I just saw you video and i had a similar problem with the injector seals on my 2007 Volvo C30. At one point this year i started noticing gas smell inside the car when the engine was stalling but not when i was driving at high speed. I had it checked and the mechanic told me it was the injector seals which were worn out. There was also the grime you just described near them :) Anyway, i had them changed, the engine cleaned, and after 2000 km i changed the oil and oil filter along with the air filter. It runs smoothly and accelerates well to its top speed (180km/h). Should i be worried though about my turbo?
Very good questions. Generally, if you service it regularly and replace the oil filter regularly, then it should be alright. I did not quite expand in the video, but the oil filter on these is a full flow filter with a bypass valve. So, if it has not been replaced regularly and on time, then it gets clogged a bit and the bypass valve opens, then all these carbon particles can go to the turbo banjo bolt filter and clog it.
In short, if you have been servicing you car regularly it should not be a problem. You have noticed it quickly, so unlikely to be a problem.
@@moremolecules Thank you for the answer. Fact is that i did drive a few hundred miles before fixing it, thinking that it was probably a minor problem with the exhaust or cabin filter, only to realise when looking under the hood that it was coming from the engine.
And yes i change oil and oil filter each year, air filter once every 2 years, i changed the fuel filter 30.000 km ago. Next i want to flush the coolant, its 5 years old already.
When accelerating from 1600 to 2200 it seems that the turbine is whistling a bit, but i assume it's normal to make a sound like that when entering its cruise speed.
@@BHDJG It should be then alright, unless you want to open the banjo bolt and clean it, but it is a bit of an effort. Maybe there is a difference between the C30 and the other 1.6HDi, but the turbine does not whistle on these, or at least you cannot hear it as compared to other diesels. Maybe it is a bit more open on the Volvo or some of the air hoses are not connecting properly.
Yeah, coolant. Flush it with distilled water. That is what I did: ruclips.net/video/CSmm2SCpPCs/видео.html
Vey informative video. Topl! I wanted to ask you if I can take into consideration your suggestions for the Volvo C30 1.6 diesel 2008? As far as I know, it is the same engine produced by Peugeot, with some minor changes.
Thank you.
Yes, it is exactly the same engine and the same things apply. There might be some differences in plastics here and there, but the main stuff are the same.
@more molecules Thanks for Replying 👌
is this engine same on mini cooper r56 1.6 80k i have that model
I need to do a major service, what do you recommend, what else should I pay attention to?
Theres also a mesh screen that sits inside one of the banjo bolts in the turbo oil feed, that becomes blocked up with grime and prevents proper lubrication of the turbo, just remove it and refit the banjo bolt
Like at 2:44 ;-)
Yes, but if there are any bits they will certainly block the turbo shaft when they go up. I replaced mine, but really thought hard about removing my mesh filter. At the end used the upgraded version. Pros/cons it is 50:50 for the mesh filter
@@moremolecules sorry i completely glanced over that part 😅🤦 very informative video tho, well done 👍👍
I am struggling to understand how a failed injector seal can contaminate the oil. Even with a failed injector seal, the black tar-like substance has no way of getting into the valve/rocker cover. The seals at the top of the injectors are only designed to stop moisture/water from seeping down to the bottom of the injector. With the seals and injector removed, you're not exposing any openings to the engine oil in the cylinder head. Am I misunderstanding something?
Yeah, I should have been more explicit in the video, although most people will switch off, hence the shortness of the explanation.
First of all, the injector tube is not integral to the head of the engine, so the bits can leak into the oil, if they can pass the top seal.
Then comes the bit where all the oil gets filtered by the oil filter, but....the oil filters can get clogged with less frequent oil changes or the oil filter is sub-par quality. It has a bypass valve, so the stuff inside, the crud and carbon particles then can get through. Also, some of the oil filter are not that good quality and sometimes either the bypass valve opens too early or it leaks, so letting more stuff through. All these mght go to the turbo mesh and block it. That is the simple reason for the more frequent oil and oil filter changes, so the oil filter does not get blocked and bypass valve open to let things through. The oil filter is full flow filter, so if there is not enough volume the bypass valve will open.
Very good tutorial, thank you.
Best on RUclips, great tutor.
Many thanks for the compliment, not the best, but I guess not the worst!
its the bolts themselves not the nuts when you remove the injector see how loose those studs are most of mine were barely in. you can tighten them with a torx E size socket cant remember the size
just checked mine, upper banjo had a black burned look to it & some black burn to the surroundings. Im worried about my turbo now. Also some oil stating to collect around the twin padded large hoses to the left of the engine. What would you suggest? Last service was last december around 4k ago.
Difficult to tell. If I were you I would wipe it clean, proper clean, you could use small amounts of carb cleaner and then monitor to see if will come back. It could be that at the service someone spilled a little bit and that burnt. Where is the oil starting to collect? On the right-hand side? Maybe this might help: ruclips.net/video/ziKR6M6ToSg/видео.html
This is great advice
Hello. Do you tighten the injectors with 6 Nm when they are hot or cold?
Definitely on a cold engine!
Thanx for all.
I just experienced runaway turbo failure. I pulled the key out but engine was still revving hard. I had to stall it out. Scary
Mann, that is scary, well done for stalling it.
@@moremolecules took three attempts in fifth gear.
@@ciaranbyrne62 Wow, I would have thought third will be enough, thank you for the reply, good to know! Take care.
I have the same engine as this and it is burning oil i dont know what is wrong i put thr car to 3100 reves and it bogs down and lots of blue smoke comes out also power seems to be lower after 3k revs to would you know what is wrong thanks
I would guess that it is the turbo somewhat spewing oil. The loss of power as well. Check the propeller for free play for example here: ruclips.net/video/-ML49tY9Pgk/видео.html
This is normal, check if yours is not, but potentially you would need to replace the turbo cartridge. Maybe I am wrong, you never know
Hey, could some oil/diesel next to the injectors indicate a bad seal? I've replaced the third cylinders injector seals about 4k km ago and recently the turbo blew up. The banjo bolt, oil strainer and oil filter were clean and the oil didn't have any metal shavings. Or could it be that the turbo blew up due to age and mileage? It's a c4 2006 1.6hdi with 260k km. Thanks
Difficult to tell without looking at the car, but carbon deposits around the injector seats definitely a bad injector seal. A bit of oil could come from anywhere, someone did not quite fill the oil properly when it was replaces ot something. If it was wiped clean and then it came again, then it is leaking.
I do not think turbos blow from just age. Yes, they do age and the tolerances get bigger, but it will be just blowing a bit of oil, rather than blow altogether if you know what I mean. I hate that expression. I meant that they do not blow from age, they simply pass a bit of oil, like smoking a bit, but that does not mean that they will disintegrate in the next few thousand miles or so.
Are all the years of the 1.6 hdi prone to this failure?
Not all of them, but I think the next model of mine is also into this bracket, so probably up to not too sure which year but say 2014 or so, probably less than that.
Hi, I have the following problem with my c4 1.6hdi 109 hp year 2007 euro 3, after the engine warms up it stops firing, I changed the pressure sensor, egr, vacuum sensor plus hoses plus flowmeter but I noticed that if I remove the plug from the car's flowmeter it works perfectly, if I plug it in again, the fun starts again and it stops firing... help, I don't know what to do with it
Do you mean the MAF sensor? If you remove the MAF sensor and it works, buy a new one and replace it. THey are on the expensive side of things, but fairly frequent problems with these. You could try cleaning the MAF element with alcohol, but most of the time it has burnt. You could try buying a second hand one as they are cheaper, but generally it is unclear how goo they are.
Hey mate, does the sharp smell on the mornong come from the bad injector seals?
Yes, it could well be, unless you have your windows opened and the wind gets the gasses back to your car. The telltale clue is the black tar around the injectors
I had leaking injectors replaced with carbon deposits on top my turbo is now failing and making a grinding noise if i replace the turbo what else do i need to replace just turbo oil and banjo bolt or should i be changing feed line and oil filter etc ? Thanks im advance
Yeah, all of the above. Do a few oil changes every say 300 miles + the oil filter. You do not need to change the feed line, but definitely change the oil filter with new oil several times. If the turbo has not gone, it should be alright with a new banjo bolt, oil pickup.
Regarding the injector bolts you need to pay attention for the bolt not to be loose since that is also threaded, also those are replaced very often since they very soft material and they stretch, I have replaced the injector seals 3 times on my Peugeot, I only fixed the leak after I bough an injector seat cutter and cleaned the seats an injector, also replaced those bolts which were VERY VERY loose, unscrewed by hand
Thank you for the comment, much appreciated and good call on the loose injector bolts.
I had to give up replacing the bolts. I wanted to because they stretch as you say, but didnt manage to loosen any of them.
@@MrQueelie Yes, they are a bit of a nightmare. You could potentially drill them out and re-thread them with bigger bolts, but that requires some effort.
@@moremolecules Yeah, they are still holding after the job in May this year, so will hopefully be fine.
@@MrQueelie Maybe this technique will work? ruclips.net/video/5fk_Ibv7w50/видео.html
The video is in Russian, but you can get the gist of it. I've watched a few videos of the person and his stuff are rather good. Problem is the understanding, but with google translate it kind of works.
Any advice for P1496 or P11AA? I've had 'work' done on DPF and now getting these codes on Berlingo 2014
Tightening the injector nuts, when the engine warm or cold?
I would do it on a cold engine, although it can also be done on a hot engine. When on hot engine the risk is to stretch the studs and potentially break them.
Hi I have a loud knocking noise coming from my berlingo 1.6 hdi when going over bumps any ideas what it could be thanks.
Some suspension components, but difficult to say exactly without lifting the wheels and moving them sideways and up/down. Could be a spring broken or other things.
Hi, I have 1.6hdi 66kw 90hp without dpf. In manual recomended oil is 5w-40. Peugeot 307sw restailing 2007. Is that corect?
My manual says 5W30, but 5W40 would also work alright depeding on where you are. Either way will be alright. With 5W40 is a bit thicker so less smoke most likely.
Thank you very helpful
Hi what would cause a miss with no patten at all, sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesn't. Where one of the injectors sit theres like water or condensation, its not diesel or oil. No warning lights comes on so at a lose my m8 is. Many thanks
Could be quite a few things, difficult to tell, depends when it is hapenning. The water, if it is like water, maybe coolant or water is finding its way. Probably good to fix that as the water will corrode stuff in there or it will turn it in some hard calcium deposit.
@moremolecules will a icarsoft multi system car diagnostic tool, its the FR V2.0 specialist designed for French and Italian cars. Many thanks. Also it will allow you to look at all diesel injector readings so is there a chart that could tell if an injector is underperforming? Many thanks.
@@deanandrew-gr1ch I am not familiar with it, but it could work you never know.
@moremolecules yea think that's the black brownish colour around the bottom of the injector where they sit is burnt carbon? I'm pretty sure it needs a new seal there on that number 3 injector as there's no where else water or anything would cause a small bit of liquid at the bottom of where the injector is. plus that's a small amount of liquid that would have evaporated away, with the heat from the engine. No smell of any diesel from it either. May aswell take all the injectors out to see what condition they are in and whether any seal needs doing on the bottom seals. any if gone apart from the one which is gone, I personally think. We have a computer which can reprogram injectors, pdf regeneration and re-set, oil reset and so on. It also allows an instant read out of every injectors. Like injector 1 is at +2. Something but the second injector will have a minus line - then the reading of the injector performance. Is it possible to match each injector readings to a chart to find out if they are working A1? So sorry I just forgot I said about that computer before it's been a long day lol I've just nipped around to my m8s who's account this is as my phones in the shop at the moment being fixed so its hard then to be able to communicate with anyone.
@@deanandrew-gr1ch Yes, you can use the injector readings as an indication. They are correction values nd for good working injectors they should be in the range of +/-1, so if one is +2 would mean that it is probably quite blocked as the ECU is opening that quite a bit more than the others.
Unlikely to be water, that would evaporate very quickly on the hot engine. Might be just starting to chuff, so not yet diesel/exhaust smell, but with time it will eat more and more of the seal and you will get the smell and more burnt carbon.
Well, those two reasons are true. But you for get about biggest one and thats oil pan. You have to replace it to straight one so you can change your oil fully and also delete that Iron thing in oil tubes to turbo.
I agree with the pan, but it does not make that much of a difference. If you replace the oil (straight pan or not) you literally within 100 miles get black oil. 50 odd ml of old oil left is not going to make that much of a difference when you put 3.5-3.7L inside of a new oil.
Now the mesh, there are two designs of that filter, metal mesh and a bigger plastic filter. The metal mesh needs to be raplaced with the new design filter. It has much bigger surface and much more difficult to get blocked. Now removing it, well, it serves a purpose this filter, when you remove it, yes oil flow will be better but any particles will end up in the turbo itself and cause the problem there. I did replace my turbo cartridge, but did not remove the oil line filter and I really thought about it for a long time.
@@moremoleculesTrue. I replaced my pan with straight and bigger one. So now i have aprox. 4.3 liters of oil. I have Partner 2017 Outdoor 4x4 so there steel cage under engine from 3mm thick steel.
@@moremoleculesAlso with this kind of cars is there one big problem. Thats location of NOx ECU under car. I moved mine so its not splashed with water. Also this ECU is mostly fixable by opening it and clean if there is problem with NOx. I hate when i see videos when peoples call service and they replace it for 200 - 300$. To days service isnt about fixing anymore, its about changing for new.
@@icyclaw13 It is a diesel 1.6 HDi, no NOx on sensors on these vehicles...
@@moremolecules Well, there is Lambda senzor with its ECU on same position. Same thing is for diesel aditive, pump and electronics are under car on bad spot. If you ride in snow, its full of ice in some minutes and after time its leaking inside. Everyelectronic circuit on Partners and Berlingos got poor water proof. I know NOx is only in BlueHDI, but other elektronic under cas is vulnerable too.
Hello. Is it physically possible to remove steel mesh from those bolts?
Yes it is possible to remove it with a screw driver.
Do you know the height in mm of the copper washers of the injectors ? Thank you
Fairly thin, but not too sure about the correct mm. Generally, depending on how much one needs to shave the seat, there may need two washers instead of one.
What about a blocked Dpf? Can that blow a turbo?
Unlikely, but possible. The back pressure will lead to increased crankcase pressure and less oil returned to the turbo.
Can you please tell me where that cable from the wastegate goes? It looks like it goes around on the back but theres nothing to connect too i have a c max 1.6 tdci the engine looks exactly like yours any tips ?
It is exactly the same engine apart from the slight redesign of the air intake in the 1.6 TDCi. Which cable is that? If it is looking like a pipe is the vacuum pipe that drives the wastegate and it goes back to the lower right of the engine (looking from front top) and connects to the turbo solenoid. If that is the 92bhp engine of course.
@@moremolecules yeah the pipe sorry my bad 😅 i will see tomorrow at work still thanks for your time
@@jp.med1a If it is not the 110bhp, as that is the slightly different model turbo, the pipe definitely goes to the turbo solenoid at the right lower back, kind of brownish like octopus-type looking part.
My peugeot 307 sw 2004 1.6hdi got turbo fail. PO245 ideas what could.be wrong wastegate? Solenoid? wiring? Turbo? Anything else?
It could be loose or split vacuum hose to wastegate or solenoid. First check if the wastegate is operating correctly: ruclips.net/video/WLsMzdKgI1o/видео.html
Thank you 👌
im Here as i have a mk2 1.6tdci 61plate And i have abit of oil Sitting in the pockets around injector 1 and 4 So if anyone has any knowledge how to resolve this i would really appreciate it
I have a Citroen C4 Diesel with some tar build up around cylinder 4, how can you effectively remove it? Thanks
The most effective and right way is to replace the copper washer at the bottom. Otherwise you could tighten the nuts a bit, but this is only temporary.
I'm changing my turbo tomorrow (it's gone again) after 2 years
Do I remove sump? I did the last time that s time oil hasn't got metal in
But the last time was lots of metal in oil, also I've removed intercooler has a lot of oil in it I had to remove from top, air con pipes below
I would say that you need to clean everything, from the oil, oil pickup, banjo bolt filters. Crucially you also need to clean the vacuum pump as well, as metal bits go there as well. Also, make sure that with the new turbo there is at least 300ml flow of oil through the turbo. Basically, you put the new turbo and everything and run the engine for 1min with the turbo oil return disconnected in a jar. Measure how much it is returned, it should be at least 300ml. Make sure that the engine has enough oil before doing this. I would remove the sump and clean everything. Also, once the new turbo is in, drive it for ~300miles and replace the oil and oil filter again to remove any small metal bits that might clog the banjo bolt filter. Also, depending on the model and year if yours has the old-style filter (metal mesh) either replace it with the new longer plastic version or remove it altogether. Perhaps some of those can be seen here: ruclips.net/video/Q7S0qDBo314/видео.html
It is a series of 5 videos how I replaced mine, but it does not include the vacuum pump and the 300ml check.
@@moremolecules thank you for your replys
Today I removed sump and a small gold peice of metal was in sump
I also washed out intercooler it was black
Washed sump out sealer on sump back on
Remove turbo feed pipe plastic type gause blocked up and think ill leave out
Hopefully have all back together tomorrow thanks very much Adam
@@adamwort7160 If it is a second turbo, you need to know why it is failing, otherwise you will have to do another one. Wash everything and of course see if the injectors are not leaking. The gold piece, not too sure about that, it may be a magnet on the sump bolt to capture any metal pieces not to swirl around. Make sure everything is clean. The banjo bolt, it is 50:50 call, if you have metal pieces in the sump it will go to the turbo and block it there eventually. Otherwise it will be blocked at the filter, either way it will not be good.
@@moremolecules as far as I know this Berlingo has had 4 turbos
When new then replaced when I bought car that lasted 30 mins because they hadn't even changed the oil
I went on Berlingo forum why does this keep going?
Last time I fitted second hand turbo with genuine feed pipe still both on turbo
But I didn't know about the gause
only this evening see gause it's blocked but I can degrease and fit? Not sure if my shop sells new ones
@@adamwort7160 I suspect you can degrease/clean it and re-use it. It is a simple mesh. Definitely do not re-use the metal small mesh, that was superseeded by the longer plastic mesh. Yes, you will have some carbon clumps in the engine, whether this is from injector seals or something else, difficult to know, but you need to be certain everything is clean. If not, then it will be blocked again. Change oil and oil filter a few times every say 300miles, that would help clean any remnants of clumps.
I can attest to snapping a stud at 13Nm. I did them by feel the last 2 years, but they always came up loose.
Many thanks indeed for the comment, appreciated. Did you manage to get it out afterwards?
Hi bro just I have a class mercedes a180 2014 w176 petrol engine sport my vehicle turbo when I accelerating the turbo making sound like whistling or dentist drill what can be bad on my car turbo please??
Most likely you have a air escaping from somewhere, so a pipe that is loose and you can hear the turbo. Unless of course the turbo is gone.
I have a 1.4 hdi 16v in my 2004 C3 XTR, it's really an early version of the 1.6 HDi 16v, the upper cylinder head (housing the cams) is actually the exact same part number for example. However it has an unbelievable bad design oversight: the plastic intake manifold is a bit bigger, and blocks access to the top row of injector retainer bolts :( The only way to access those is to remove the entire intake, which also means removing the high-pressure lines, the low-pressure returns, the plastic cover for the head, the airbox and the EGR tube. I'm honestly considering modifying mine to use a 1.6 intake manifold, the 8 intake ports are in exactly the same locations and they use the same rubber seals etc.
About the banjo bolts, do both of them house a filter ?
I feel for you, believe me. They are designed in a way to deter your average joe to tinker with cars. As far as I know they all have the banjo bolt mesh, it is there to limit the occasional bits and pieces clogging the turbo shaft. Some people remove them altogether, but I really thought about it very long and could not decide what to do. All in all I decided to keep the new mesh design in. The longer plastic version, not the old metal mesh.
Pretty sure he said in video, only the lower one has a filter. I've only had the upper banjo bolt off and there was no filter but still had some build up of sludge I could scrape out.
i'm reading everywhere to put C3 synthetic 5w40 into a 2006 207 with the 1.6hdi engine, I notice you run 5w30 c2, which one should I use?
Very good question. It is a tough one and I have pondered a bit on this one. For the 1.6HDi the recommended one is 5W30 and that is what I have used. 5W40 is also fine to use and it is a little bit thicker, so less chance of the oil to go through seals, turbo for example or valve stem seals. I have always used 5W30 as it was recommended and never had problems, well perhaps I need to start using 5W40 as I have a puff of blue smoke on startup, most likely valve stem seals or a little bit of oil being passed through the turbo seals.
Now, I have only seen the low SAP oils in the 5W30 and not the 5W40, so that is why I have not yet tried it.
All in all, it is not a problem and probably a little bit better to use 5W40.
@@moremolecules sorry I couldn't get back to you earlier, this is the original post "I have a 2009 1.6HDI 207 90HP WITHOUT a particulate filter:).
The Peugeot handbook recommends I use Engine Oil to ACEA A3/B4 & PSA's B71 2296, standards but is vague about the oil viscosity - it shows a chart which 'authorises'(!) 10W-40, 5w-40, 0W-30 and even the 5W-30 engine oil which must be used on the FAP version! The Peugeot chart showing the recommended viscosities vs ambient temperature seems to say I can use any of these oils!
Is this right? What engine oil should I be using on a new(ish) 1.6HDI Non-FAP?"
so according to this owners manual the 5w30 is aparently best suited for Diesel Particulate filter engines, so I'm changing it to 5w40 c3, and next time I change my dads citroen C-elysee that has roughly the same 1.6hdi I will be switching from 5w30 to 5w40 aswell, thank you for your time, looking forward to keeping watching your content in the future
@@therealxicojorge Yes, you are correct in all of these. Even though my and yours and non-FAP versions I stuck with 5W30 low SAPs due it being a cleaner oil, i.e. less sulfated things inside or less ash. With the 5W40 there are no low saps, as far as I have seen, so there will be a little bit more clogging on the exhaust side and the EGR. Maybe run every now and then the Italian tuneup😁
@@moremolecules I've been made aware of the less sulfated oils being better for these engines through your channel so thank you my friend and yes I'm having a bit of a hard time finding what I want and not paying 2 times the price of the low sulfate c2 5w30 not gonna lie, trying to explain all of this to someone who doesnt care about cars after just learning it myself has been a challenge too but again all that should matter to him is that his engine is gonna be happy and that he doesnt do my head in if it starts making problems from cheaping out on maintenance I'm already doing it for a couple of beers and it takes like 30min max its not like he's worried about labour costs, anyway. thanks for the great responses, the search for the oil low sap c3 5w40 continues
@@therealxicojorge Yeah ,that is why my original reply started with I have pondered on this for quite a bit. I do not think there is really an easy answer here. The non-FAP versions take without a problem the 5W40, say the Total Quarts 9000. For the FAP ones, it needs to be the low saps, 5W30, the Ineo ECS. In general it is because the sulfates and ash will clog eventually the DPF of the FAP ones. We do not have DPF, so safer, but then again the higher content of ash in the 9000 oil will line up the exhaust pathway and the EGR. Probably not too much of a problem, as if one blasts the rpms to say >5,000 these carbon particles will be blown out. Yes, the EGR will need more frequent cleaning.
Now, the positive of the 5W40 is that it is a little bit thicker and the exhaust will smoke less, due to the thickness less oil will pass through the turbo seals and the valve stem seals. So, less blue smoke at the back of the exhaust. I do have a little bit of blue smoke coming out on cold startup, so probably I will try the 5W40, just to see if it is going to make a difference.
Would a blocked banjo bolt filter make a strange noise at idle?
A blocked bajno bolt filter would very quickly lead to a catastrophic failure of the turbo shaft, due to no oil lubrication and cooling. Strange noises, could be anything really.
@@moremolecules thanks for reply..its hard to describe the sound too..its a low pitch sound that gets higher then stops 🤣
@@moremolecules it is the fuel filter 👍
Its important to change the OIL. there is another problem with this enginen 1.4 and 1.6: The design of the oil pan: It doesnt allow to drain the oil completly, there is always something left. I think at some point you have to remove the oil pan to drain it.
Completely agree, like here: ruclips.net/video/5kevvRopWUc/видео.html
Hi, thanks for the video. I have got a 2019 Peugeot 3008. I have DTC Crankcase Fumes Heater Control - Open Circuit. The valve cover that has the cranckase breather - round thing with zigzig locker opposite the engine oil filler cap is leak oil. Is it possible this is throwing this DTC?
Yeah, difficult to say, but most likely that is the culprit for the DTC. You need to see why it is leaking oil from the cap. It means that you have too much crankcase pressure, but this could be from a number of things, for example your DPF could be blocked, so resulting in some back pressure.
@@moremolecules Thanks. Its a gasoline engine 1.2. Its leaking on the cap and then through the hose to the intake.
@@partoems9376 You could take the zig-zag cap off and see if the membrane is intact and the spring is not broken. Rare this would happen, but you never know. Difficult to say from a distance, but there must be some sort of back pressure so the crankcase is under excessive pressure. I am not too familiar with the newer 1.2 petrol, but there must be like a catalyst converter. That could be blocked, although unlikely.
Funny enough Volvo recommends Castrol 5w30 ACEA A5 oil which is a full SAPS but low HTHS lubricant, opposed to the PSA recommendation. Volvo also have less faults related to the this engine, but that can be contributed to the Volvo being more high-end car and owners just taking better care.
Well, how do you define "have less faults related to this engine". It is the same engine at the end of the day. Exactly the same engine, so difficult to say why they would have less faults, unless as you say people are taking better care of their cars, i.e. oil changes on time as comapred to your ""average" Peugeot driver that say, "ahh, the hell with it, it is a Peugeot, it does not need an oil change". I would be more inclined to use low SAPs oils, as there are sumply less amount of the sulfur to go and create a mess.
More "high-end car", I really doubt that for the recent models, all made in China, but the older ones, maybe, At the end of the day it is the perception of it all, not are they actually a better model of a car. Why is there another brand of DS (essentially Citroen) or Cupra (essentially Seat/Volkswagen). Simply the perception of some of these being higher end model cars or higher performance whatever. Undeneath, same stuff, just packaged in a nicer-looking badge package.
@moremolecules Volvos are a high end cars and they are not made in China but in Sweden and Belgium for EU market (not that the origin country makes any product . Full SAPS oils start with higher TBN and usually retain that number higher in service- but I'm sure you know that as you know why were low and mid SAPS oil introduced. Had nothing with wear on the engine. And lastly, engines are the same except that one are built in France and Ford had theirs from Germany. So only difference is maintenance and , what I've already mentioned in my first post, different specification of engine oil.
@@euro4by4hr78 Aha, have a look at the initial reliability index (e.g. here: www.jdpower.com/business/press-releases/2024-us-initial-quality-study-iqs), yes it is in the US, but for a high end car, Volvos should be also good in the US.
Very veri thanks for the information 👏👏👏👏
K to use mid sap oil? Only mobil 1 esp available in my country. What specific oil are you using? And what is the meaning of low sap
Low sap is basically oil with low content of Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous, and Sulphur. As long as the specs on the bottle match, it is not a problem to use another brand.
@@moremolecules I used Castrol Edge 5W30 LL Titanium full synthetic that supports acea c3 standard. But I did not notice Low SAP mentioned. Is this ok ?
@@daviddilparic3930 Probably it is ok. If the standard if the same it should be ok. Now this low saps might be a marketing thing, so I would not be too bothered about that. I think the standard is what matters.
@@moremolecules Thanks. Everything is fine with this oil. I can even say it looks a bit better than Total's oil.
@@daviddilparic3930 Difficult to tell if one is better than another. I had awhile back an experiment with taking oil samples every 1,000 miles and sending it to a company for chemical analysis, but did not do it with another oil. I started using total and have not changed since, just a habit, nothing else.
Hey man! What size is the bit for the injectors stud? Wanted to re tighten mine
The studs are stretch bolt and I would not tighten them, but tighten the nut on top of the stud. It is a 7mm allen key.
Hey! Just had the injectors Serviced , they put 2 new ones. Mechanic removed all the gunk around them - engine now runs pretty smooth and area around is nice and clean 🧼
Can’t complain they did a pretty good job
You are probably right, but i dont get it how that carbon build up comes in contact with the oil. In my understanding the gases comes through the failed copper wash and going in the athmosphere. How comes that the oil get contaminated
The injector tube is not integral to the top of the engine, in other words, there is a rubber o-ring that should prevent any carbon going in the crankcase. Nevertheless, gasses and other stuff from the combustion become really hard substance and forces its way through the rubber seal and end up in the crankcase oil. Some of course end up in the atmosphere, but the longer it is left the more might end up in the crankcase oil. That is why it is quite crucial for the seal to be replaced as soon as it is noticed.The whole thing boils down to that this rubber seal that seals the injector tube from the crankcase is not perfect.
@@moremolecules If i get you correctly there is opening in the cylinder head which is sealed throgh the rubber o-ring. OK but why there is any opening, why not like the spark plug in the petrol engine. Only one copper ring and that is it? Any function?
@@courcheveller Because you have to be able to remove the head and do some repairs. If the two are one piece you would not be able to remove the head to do repairs. There is a copper seal at the bottom and one plastic kind of o-ring and a rubber o-ring at the top. That is it. It is the same as petrol engines, not that different, but the compression in the diesel especially the HDi is huge compared to a petrol engine. There is a spark in the petrol engine, where in the diesel is compression only.
@@moremolecules What I mean a year prior, is the design of newer psa 8v head 1.6hdi, there is not possible that blow by come into contact with oil because injector hole is one piece in the head from combustion chamber to the top, like spark plugs in petrol engines with only copper ring. No point of contact with crankcase oil no need of that rubber seal. If you have blow by through copper ring, all that goes away without chance of mixing with oil. I did not imagine that in 16v all that can be made like it is made. The head design of 16v is definitive extremely prone to expensive turbo failures.
@@courcheveller Yes, it has been designed like that unfortunately and a stupid copper washer to cause all these things. I think later models they realised the mistake and fixed it, but the earlier models suffer from that issue.
is this one of reasons why car start to throtling in drive like he want to stop due to changing gears or when gas pedal are not pushed or clutch are bad!? i have one injector leaked preetty much but black oil get hardened
I do not think these two will be related, might be wrong on that though 🙂
@@moremolecules it was showing on trip computer on Peugeot 207 low oil pressure !! is that oil of engine or
@@Mr11ESSE111 That will be the engine oil
@@moremolecules i hope so , because when i pull of foot from gas pedal and press clutch sometimes it start shakes or like lose power , its not all the time then occasionally and once 2 days ago was that message on central screen about low oil pressure !! so changing oil filter and engine oil could solve that problem??
@@Mr11ESSE111 Generally this has happenned to me before, I did not tighten the filter correctly and I got low oil pressure. Basically a little bit of gap was there, the filter cap was not screwed correctly. I would say switch off, let it cool down overnight and the oil to drop back to the sump and take filter cap off and put back again. You would need need some rags for the oil that will be spilled.
This is the same engine in fiesta right? Great video by the way.
Yes, same as in the 1.6TDCi fiestas
Hi Chris, the turbo failure my HDI 1.6 engine has is P1497 en P2562. after 10 seconds running the car in neutral on 30k rmp the turbo fails. Is this the same problem as what you are describing?
I think the vanes of your turbo might be sticking rather than overall turbo failure. You have a VNT turbo, a bit more sophisticated than mine and more powerful of course. The problem I am describing is a bit different.
@@moremolecules ah okay thank you very much for responding. I saw another video of yours where you described the problem that I had. It is the actuator which was too tight or too loose. After removing the heat shield I loosend the pipe that opens and closes the valve a bit and now the error messages are gone.
@@moremolecules this is your video that helped me solve the problem. The waste gate actuator arm was the problem.
ruclips.net/video/WLsMzdKgI1o/видео.html
@@Chiefelgin Ha, I have to say that is fortunate, but really well done for tracing it out. Happy holidays!
@@moremolecules thanks man and your vids are lifesavers. Merry Christmas and a happy new year!
I part exchange my peugeot 307 1.6hdi 2005 last week with 182000 + mileage with orginal turbo, injectors, engine, gearbox still working perfect.
I bought this car in 2014 with 123000 milage and read common faults on different forums. Then change turbo oil feed pipe and remove plastic filter (old one has gauza mesh type filter) also change oil pick up pump in sump. Always use 5w30 c2 low saps oil and serviced between 4k. . .5k. Every single time engine oil flush and check injectors holding 8 bolts if bit loose then tight up nicely.
Again my daughter bought peugeot 2008 1.6 e-hdi 2014 with 132k miles on clock. This engine is 8 valves (old peugeot 307 was 16 valve). Really i didn't want to buy diesel same engine but daughter like the car so buy again😮.
Just want to stick with same servicing schedule. I heard that 8 valves engine has less problems then 16 valves 🤞.
What you think can i change turbo oil feed pipe and remove little filter as i did before and oil pick up pump in sump.
Regards
Yeah, the 8valve ones are a changed design and as far as I know much less prone to turbo failures, so I would not worry too much about changing oil pick and so on. Even on mine when I changed the turbo filter, there not a single speck of anything, so I could have kept it. If you stick to servicing it as you have, I would not worry too much about it.
@@moremolecules
Thank you very much sir for reply 👍.
Yesterday i did serviced to peugeot 2008 1.6e-hdi. When i checked air filter and cabin filter i shocked fully blocked and diesel filter same. (I believe after dealers 3 years servicing nobody thouch this car except mot. But service history of local garage (Coventry) show 4 years record till last month which is fully . . . . My daughter ring garage they said this car never come to us for servicing or for other work. Strange . . .
@@arshadmahmood1845 The e-HDi is not 2008, but probably 2014. Yes, the dealership will do that. I had mine serviced for 4 years at dealers and then started doing my own. The air filter was so black that it was never replaced.
@@moremolecules
You are right sir. Its 2014 64 reg and model 2008.
@@arshadmahmood1845 It definitely does not have a lambda oxygen sensor, but not too sure about the tank thingy. Could it be that you overfilled it and the breather filter has clogged?
Great video about turbo maintance my peugeot brother 🙏Also what I do wanna ask you something interesting Wich I heard from some is that driving the car for short distances like for example in city's. Can Also damage the turbo?🙄
Short drives would not be detrimental to the turbo, but it might be to the DPF if you have one. Also, the oil get diluted more with condensation, so it is not optimal. With longer driving the water condensate in the oil evaporates and performs better.
@@moremolecules I see so it only affects the dpf and EGR valve ,also btw 5w30 vs 5w40 oil Wich u think is better since my car has high millage no dpf to btw
@@dracony7649 Good question, I have always used 5w30, but 5w40 is also alright. Less smoke with the 5w40. I would use 5w40 if I can find one with low saps, but as far as I know only the 5230 is low in saps.
There is a rare type of 5W30 with C2/C3 spec with low SAPS and viscosity similar to 5W40 of >3.5 viscosity HTHS. This is what should be used.
My 1.6HDI did the exact same, turbo failure at 50k.
I'm gona' go ahead and ask... Any common fault that leads to high oil consumption on these engines ? Last 10 000 km I had to refill about 2liters which is crazy. No visible leaks under the car or anywhere on the engine. Only thing that I had noticed is a bit smoke when first starting the car in the morning but that lasts about ~30 seconds and is white. Any suggestion or direction I can check ?
This is rather too much. Are you sure that it is not leaking and pooling somewhere. I would check for any oil in the coolant, in case you might have a blown gasket. If it burns that much, it should really blow blue smoke on acceleration. Check if by any chance the sump bolt is not leaking.
@@moremolecules Will double check all that you mentioned. I keep the car in a garage so its always at the same spot, no oil spot. Will check coolant.
@@dENd0Mania check for oil on the belly pan.
@@moremolecules quick update. Definitely no oil leaking from underneath engine or any visible oil trace, as far as viewing from the bonnet. No changes in liquid heights for coolant or other liquids in the car. Morning starts are always with a blueish smoke that lasts a couple of seconds and after that no trace of smoke, even under high power/acceleration. Now here is new thing, driving agressively on the motorway in 5th gear at around 130kmph and going up the car emitted STOP and oil pressure warning on screen ( didn't manage to read fully ) and automatically shut off. I pulled over to the emergency lane, checked the engine but nothing visible. I removed the intake and checked for oil but only thin oil inside, not enough for even oil drop to come out. Checked turbo movement, all ok. Removed the pipe leading to intercooler for oil and only tiny oil film, not even dropping. Started the car and everything was fine other than check engine light ( probably error in ecu ). Anyway, went on to drive for about a couple of days since I was at the other side of the country and nothing happened. Speed up to 100kmph and all was fine. Will try to take to mechanic before new year, I suspect either oil filter clog or oil pump "filter" in sump. Will see. Still no idea why su much oil consumption. Heh, maybe old engine, pushing almost 400 000km. Will update after mechanic checks car.
@@dENd0Mania You are loosing an insane amount of oil, somehow. With that amount of oil lost it is either spilling somewhere or being burnt in the engine. If it is burnt you will see it in the rear view mirror, it will be huge amounts of blue smoke. If it is leaking somewhere you should be able to see it. There are no other options.
How do you check the oil level, cold engine and dipstick?