where to use stabilising solution - Sandtex Trade Stabilising Solution
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- Опубликовано: 9 авг 2022
- Where to use stabilising solution,
Use Stabilising solution on weather old friable chalky powdery surfaces.
Here I show you me using Stabilising Solution on rendered walls prior to painting them with masonry paint.
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PVA does not belong in our trade. Why people use it worries me. Plasterer’s use it in their game. We have products for every problem we encounter and PVA isn’t one of them. 🤪
We both know that... Just a shame plenty of others don't.
Why wouldn't you use PVA to seal a newly filled repair, as another UK RUclips decorator uses it quite a bit ?
@@waynemoate9401 PVA is a glue, it softens with water, as said in the video, it's not alkali resisting.. which stabilising solution is.. as is Zinsser Peelstop.. and Gardz (you don't use Gardz outside though).
PVA forms a skin over the surface.. the underlying surface can break down under it and then you find the PVA film can start peeling away from the surface like a balloon skin.
Using PVA to seal prior to painting is bad practice and isn't taught at colleges when apprentices are learning the trade.
Plasterers use PVA... decorators don't.
Ever rolled a ceiling that a plasterer has done a repair on it and PVA is on the surface... And the paint slides and pulls off the PVA area.... Nightmare.
@@waynemoate9401 this the same guy that loves expanding foam just as much as PVA ? Good decorator. Does good work, knowledgeable guy ( s ). However IMO PVA forms a skin that paint does not adhere to. It’s like sticking clingfilm over something. We have Peel stop for “ glueing “ down edges of paint that has been scraped back and you want to stop it from flaking / peeling any further. That’s what was developed for our trade. Yes before that a lot of painters may have used PVA or alkali resistant primer . Which we used on almost every problem surface - still a great product. For new plaster , your initial coat , we use thinned down emulsion, not PVA. Hope that explains it.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator sorry never noticed you had replied Re the PVA question. Just read your reply after I jumped the gun on your video, apologies.
...clear, experiential, good & knowledgeable information. Thanks! 😊
Great stuff Phil
It is good.
Finding this AFTER I bought PVA 😢 great vid mate.
Great vid, only half way so far. What filler would you use on render? Outside obs
When painting garden walls with soil behind i speck mineral paint (silicone)paint tikkurial do a good one as these paints are very breathable. Thanks for the video’s Phil 👍
Finngard?
Do you use the uni primer with that as well.
Only needed when the surface is friable i think its called hirdo something
Another great video and explanation! You’ve given me confidence to try and attempt some decorating in my home. I just had a question: we have old artex walls in our new home that seems to be painted with a yellow semi glossy paint. How can I paint over it without sanding it down? Should I apply zinsser primer first then paint? Or a mist coat and paint?
Thank you again Phil !
Hi. Yes a primer sealer would help.
A mist coat coat work too... The problems you get when going over a silk paint is you could find small air bubbles appear on the surface.
Consider having it skimmed over by a plasterer. That would give you a smooth surface going forward.
Hi Phil, excellent content and so glad I found this video before I paint the outside of my house. Never knew you had to water down masonary paint for the first coat. I have another question regarding bonding emulsion painted wall prior to using lining paper. I stupidly used 50/50 PVA to paint on the wall, waited for it to dry and then lined the wall. After giving it two coats of emulsion I noticed the paper debonding. I managed to stick it back but what a nightmare. I’m planning on lining another room and really want to get it next time around. I want to confirm if using either Zinzeer Guardz, oil based primer or Zinzeer Peelstop would seal the surface and prevent the lining paper from coming away. I also understand that using ready mixed wallpaper paste is much stronger than the packet stuff you mix yourself. Look forward to you replying, regards a frustrated DIYer .(
Oh no.... Who told you a 50/50 paint with PVA???
Going forward with that room... When you strip the lining off, allow walls to dry, sand them and then give a coat of Gardz. You'll be fine after that to re line or even paint the walls. Lining will give a better surface for the future if you want to paper over it.
Another room... Use the paste (tub paste - have a look at Wickes own brand ready mix tub paste)
Thin some of that down to size the wall prior to hanging the lining.
Or use Gardz... If the walls are bad.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks a lot mate, really appreciate you replying and good tip about using gardz. I found a post online because I wanted to make sure the paper would stick. I’ll pop out today and buy a tin of gardz to try it.
Actually Phil, that's quite timely 'cos I've just used some on the inside of my brick built garage to keep the dust down........some of the old hand clamped bricks had started to spaul and flake a bit.........It's done a great job.
Keep sharing your knowledge. Just one question.........did you ever go to college?🤣🤣
Best
Yorkshire Dave👍👍
May I ask whether you did any preparation? My garage has brick and concrete block walls. Do you think this product would work for both?
I have a rendered wall but this was rendered almost 5 years ago and not been painted. Will just thinned out paint work as primer or would I need the stabilising solution?
if it's in good condition and not all flaky/powdery just put a thinner masonry paint coat on first.
Get a sweeping brush and dust it over if it needs it to dust it down.
If it's a friable unstable surface you'll use Stabilising solution then.
If you can peel the existing masonry paint from the wall and see what looks like new render beneath would you just paint with masonry paint, or use something like this (or Peel Stop, since I have it!)
Yep. PeelStop or stabilising solution.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator cool cheers, just hope all of it peels off as easy as the bit my son 'helpfully' took off :0
yes that is what were taught a thinned down coat looking at the data sheets the sandtex trade recommends applying the stabilising solution to the new render and dulux recommends the thinned down coat and not to use stabilising solution but always used the solvent one myself i wouldnt trust a water based one to bind it down enough.
Over kill using it on new render when it's a sound surface.
Thinned down paint is fine, let it soak in.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator oh yes i know cost a fortune on a whole house
We used the old type of stabiliser on flaky powdery stucco and render etc ...its fine on the porous friable (the word I think you were lookung for phil, that no one ever uses 😏) stuff, but if it goes over something like gloss, or a sealed surface it can cause it to peel after the masonry paint goes on, because it just dorms a skin... I hope this water based gear is better
Glad you mentioned pva...urban myth on plaster
hi Steve, you mean the oil based stabilising? you used to be able to get that with a white pigment to it. not used or seen that in years.... you're not getting mixed up with alkali resisting primer, which is oil based and can be used outside ?
the PVA thing does my head in lol blind leading the blind with that one.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yep...the old oil based one, I aint used stabiliser for years now, is it not available in oil anymore?
I'd of thought so, but the water based is very good... or peelstop
@@Lloyd1885 Oil based stabilising solution is everywhwere still johnstones still do a pigmented one the rest are clear johnstones do a clear sandtex dulux only do a oil based one albany armstead leyland macphersons all the main brands still do it and oil based masonry paint oil based stabilising solution is just as easy to get as water based
Hi. would this work on a block wall with lime whitewhash, its a bit flaky now.
Brush the loose off and use it... Or even PeelStop is an option.
Hi Phil, what would you do with a pebble dash outside wall of house, that's never been painted (approx 10yrs or more)?
Hi. Is it in good condition or is it all powdery etc?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Hi Phil, pebble dash is in good condition - not flaky or powdery, probably the reason I never painted it in the first place :)
@@kevinboyle8097 the the data sheet for the paint you'll use.... I have a feeling it will say thin Down the first coat and buiod up thickness. Don't make it too hard to apply.
Do I need to thin this down or shall I apply it on neat?
no, you don't thin it.
Can anyone tell me if i need stabalising solution for a newly rendered wall? It was done a few months ago. It's not chalky but it it is sandy. When rubbed loose sand comes away. Is this normal and will decent masonry paint bind the surface without the need to stabilise it first? Thanks.
No you don't need to stabilise new rendered walls. Brush off the loose dust with a hand brush.
Then thin down the first coat of masonry paint to allow to soak in.
Your next coat can be thicker, then the last coat can be straight out the tin if it applies nicely.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator You star. Thanks so much for the advice pal!
@@benwilliams5760 depending on what paint you use, it may say to first coat with their recommended primer.
Read the instructions :)
you could have saved yourself a repainting job if you had lined the back of your wall with some plastic membrane to stop the moisture from the soil soaking the concrete in the first place.
Oh James... Tell that to the landscaper. LoL
Hardly ever use stabilsing solution unless you have white powdery suface to paint.
Sandtex in days gone by was always the best( thick as treacle ) Nowadays just a sticky emulsion type paint and about the cheapest you can buy.
Started getting problems with coverage and paint coming off as in your video Phil.Given up with it and found Dulux Weathershield better.
The very best though I think is Bedec masonry or M.S.P paint.
That problem with flaking paint is easily dealt with a slightly thinned coat of M.S.P which will seal everything up then a full coat on top.
Have been sorting the garage out and gave my black Sandtex away.
When I finish a job I like to know the customers job is going to last.
Just saying it works with me anyway.
And that's when and why you use stabilising solution.... Friable chalky powdery surfaces.
i dont know a 5l of sandtex trade standard one is £50-60 for a tint a lot of customers will find that expensive. the best cheapest one ive used is armstead masonry £30-40
@@jackwardley3626 gotta move away from those who can't pay for the better paints.
@@jackwardley3626 You need to check your prices before buying anything Jack Wardley.
Sandtex works out a £15 a gallon at Wickes although I still wouldn't buy it.
@@geoffreymeare3406 you can get sandtex retail for £15 the proper sandtex trade one is £50-£60 per gallon for a tint
Hi 👋 what's the difference to this and zinssor peel stop , can this be used indoors? 🤔
the price!! yes you can use it inside.. again, it will depend on the surface your using it on.
Peelstop can be used outside and Inside.
Can you recommend a good concrete sailor for the Concrete bench
Like Popeye the sailor?
Screw fix do their own brand Nonsense clear concrete sealer. It's about £15-20 for 5ltrs... If that.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator lolol....beat me to it!
Please help! I have recently had my exterior white painted render redone, there was some algae on the original painted surface which was washed off with strong concentration of patio magic and rinsed well. I had. 2 coats of Mcphersons pliolite applied and now I can see dark patches under the surface, how can I fix this? I was thinking of some sort of sealer and then repainting the area and advice would be appreciated
hi, are the dark patches the algae coming through again?
is everywhere else covered ok?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator there are a few areas where there are small dark patches under the paintwork it hasn’t penetrated through the paint as yet. The job was finished end of June and only noticed the problem a few weeks ago
for now can they be touched over with the same paint.. make sure it's not been thinned... see what happens then in a few more weeks.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yes we can try that, I just wondered if there was any sort of sealer we could apply first as an extra measure and then overpaint to try to prevent it showing through
try touching it up first. if it still comes through you may need an oil based sealer to hold it off.. depending on what it could be,
How is it looking one year on?
One year on..... ruclips.net/video/fEQHqTIN2p0/видео.html
Can it be used on already painted outside walls?
hi, to do what?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator between coats.
@@zbigniewgarbaszewski5903 there's no need. Only use stabilizing solution when it's needed.... On old dry friable problem surfaces.
Mineral paint?
which bit?
Isn't peel stop PVA based?
It's not the same
Peel stop is PVA with acrylic and most likelyhalf a dozen other additives
Does stabiliser reduce breathability?
this being waterbased, I wouldn't think it any different to using a waterbased masonry paint on your surface.
What type of surface are you wanting to paint?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I'm painting a house rear wall. It's an old brick wall but it has a lot of new lime/cement pointing that I've just applied.
@@HouseFairyDIY unless its a friable chalky un sound surface you don't need stabilising solution.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator It's now all sound so will just use paint. Thanks.
@@HouseFairyDIY thinner first coat :)