This video was clearly CGI. There wasn't any swearing, beer, a BFH, or the idiot cousin breaking something new to fix. Nice video keep up the good work.
I raced Super Stock back in the 70s with a Duster 340 and Demon 340. Both automatics. One had Hooker 1-7/8" race headers and the Demon had JR 1-7/8" race headers. They had separate tubes and a separate collector. Very easy to install compared to the street type headers. No disconnecting of the steering or starter if I remember correctly. I still have a 71DEMON and I've used 1-3/4" street headers and yes they are harder to install.
I recently put a set of TTI Headers on a 360 in a 69' Barracuda (power steering, column shifter) after having a set of Hedman's on it for less than two weeks. The ground clearance was the issue I had, though the TTIs went on much easier! I don't scrape every speed bump now! Great product!
I want Longtubes on my 383 Sport Fury just being stubborn about pulling the trigger on them. I have full TTi 2.5 on it now with stock Manifolds and I could believe how much happier the motor was with this setup. Ran cooler instantly . Can’t imagine how much it would gain from Longtubes’
@@mrmoparrr They are expensive but I think they’re worth it. You’ll love them. My buddy recently put a set of the ceramic coated on his ‘70 Polara 383 and he couldn’t be happier with them.
The #5204 1-3/4" Hookers fit better and flow better than the 1-5/8" typical A-body SBM header. Have used them in 3 cars with good results. All of these cars had manual steering, which helps, and one with a kicked-out Milodon pan actually contacted the kickout slightly, which was a simple fix. IDK if Hooker still makes these but I would use them again. I do have TTi stepped SBM headers on a F-M-J body (LeBaron/Aspen/Diplomat/Volare, etc.) that worked great (supposed to fit B&E with SBM as well).
I have heard the super comp hookers were better than the regular comp. In the late 90s to mid 2000s I read High Performance Mopar magazine a lot. When the TTIs came out they talked them things up big time. That’s the main reason I bought them back in ‘07. Still love them.
I believe the #5204 1-3/4" are the same ones I ran back in 1985 on my Demon 340 which I still own. I put the stock exhaust back on in 1986. I still have the headers and was looking at them a few days ago. The only problem I had was the collector didn't line up with the Trans crossmember clearance tunnel for the factory pipes. This created a tight fit and the exhaust would rub on the crossmember and vibrate in the car. If I flattened the tube on the exhaust maybe they would have cleared? Those headers are still like new. Maybe a 1000 miles on them?
@@craigcontofalsky4387 I'd like to buy them if you'd sell. I let a friend race my car and he foolishly drove off the return road in the dark, and hit a washout, bottoming the header on the asphalt shoulder. 😢
Your video just made me buy some tti headers today. I fought and fought my cheap hooker headers and couldn’t get the driver side on. #1 tube interfered with bolt head. Even after denting it couldn’t get it on. Said screw it and I’ll be picking up my TTIs today. Lol.
Thanks for the video. Think my next set of headers will be TTI. I went completely the other way and bought the cheapest headers on ebay. And I got what I payed for. Total fight to get on my 71 Demon.
As usual with your videos, you did a great job explaining everything and showing how to install! Nice job! I remember how pleased you were after your original installation. 😍
My neck is still aching watching you put those headers on😂. It’s been a few years since I have installed a set of headers on one of my cars. I appreciate your video.
Great to know, my King racing bearing’s finally came in after 5 months for my 418, what a mess that was, now I see how my builder is going to install my TTI headers, thanks again for sharing 👍
@@Duster_GarageGreat video. I'm glad to see there's a better design available today than 50 years ago. You're correct. All the older designs were a bear 🐻 to install.
My grandson now has my old 75 Duster that I built. I used the 360 HP exhaust manifolds W/ a 2 1/2" exhaust, 318. I did away with the factory Plymouth TV linkage & used a TV cable off of an A-500 or A-518 transmission. It is a bolt on to the 727 or 904 on the trans end and the upper end takes the same connection as a turbo 350/ 700-R4 GM transmission. Piece of cake to install. I tried several header types and none would clear the power steering. This A body seems to have manual steering so does the TTI setup clear a power steering unit? I had to fab my own down pipe from the left exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. Lots of trial & error & several wasted bends but I finally got it to clear & look decent. I also used the later (late 80s) Chrysler Denso starter. Getting rid of the factory mechanical TV linkage helped a bunch. Great install video, thanks for the effort. I do appreciate that because I hate working on exhaust under a car.
@@larryhutchens7593 Yes, the TTI headers definitely work with power steering. My buddy has them on his Dart(318 with power steering). They are expensive but you won’t regret the purchase.
Not to knock Mopar but I love my small and big block chevys when it come to installing headers. They just slide in and bolt up. But the performance improvements are worth it even if it a headache.
You only hit water on very front and very rear bolt holes into the iron head (at least on my small block Mopar). I have installed Doug headers in my duster with manual steering and a 4 speed. Similar steps as you did, but I also had to remove the drivers torsion bar to get them in there. They also hug the motor nicely and leave lots of ground clearance, but are quite a bit different than the TTI design.
Thanks for the review. I used to install the starter first before installing when I used Hooker headers. You could get a starter out but it was just easier to do it first. How easy is it to access the starter bolts and replacing the starter? I didn’t see the gaskets. Did you cut the gaskets for a three piece gasket install? The way they tuck up is impressive. Thanks. Enjoy watching your videos. When you installed the engine did you install with the transmission all at once?
The starter and bolts are actually quite easy with the headers installed. I didn’t cut the gaskets. They are Mr.Gasket ultra seal. When I install the engine, I do that first. Then I put the trans up in from underneath. Thank you for watching. Glad you liked it.
@@Duster_Garage Earlier this summer I had a 360 built for my old Demon. Haven't finished cleaning and painting underneath. So I haven't gotten it installed yet. But I got a set of Dougs long tube headers. Heard decent things about them & how they fit. Had it tuned on a dyno with them on. Hope they fit OK. Good installation video. Thx.
I may have missed it. What header bolts did you use? A long time ago I thought I saw someplace that they come with bolts but the on them was small. But I’m old and I could be miss remembering lol.
100% agree...hooker headers on 440 E body Cars whew !! ...tough bolt fasten in some situations along with starter issues...they're tight....TTI looks far better
how easy is it to remove the Manual steering box at 4:40 you removed all linkage. i have not done that in a long time but it was an E-Body?I have that Borgansin 16:1 and its crazy trying to drive at lower speed turning around. I got factory one to put in yet. hey aree you running that R.P.M. intake? there is a video showing how poorly they flow , here he show ported flow.ruclips.net/video/7AcGTLt7F1k/видео.htmlsi=ZOYVHVM8ksoQ7-x
I haven’t removed the steering box with the engine/headers in. But I think there is enough room to get it out. I have the rpm Air Gap intake manifold. From everything I’ve heard, it’s the best flowing dual plane intake on the market.
I have Doug's d-453 headers and am getting ready to put my 360 magnum in my 74 duster any info on them? They said they fit right in with power steering
I think they’re supposed to be a similar design as TTIs. I’ve never put a set on before. A friend of mine tried putting a set on his Duster, 4 speed with power steering. He had to bash the tubes for clearance around the steering box. He ended up giving up on them and bought a set of TTIs.
This video was clearly CGI. There wasn't any swearing, beer, a BFH, or the idiot cousin breaking something new to fix.
Nice video keep up the good work.
😂. I’ve installed those kind of headers before.
I raced Super Stock back in the 70s with a Duster 340 and Demon 340. Both automatics. One had Hooker 1-7/8" race headers and the Demon had JR 1-7/8" race headers. They had separate tubes and a separate collector. Very easy to install compared to the street type headers. No disconnecting of the steering or starter if I remember correctly. I still have a 71DEMON and I've used 1-3/4" street headers and yes they are harder to install.
That’s really awesome. If you don’t mind me asking, what did your Super Stock small blocks run in the quarter mile?
I recently put a set of TTI Headers on a 360 in a 69' Barracuda (power steering, column shifter) after having a set of Hedman's on it for less than two weeks. The ground clearance was the issue I had, though the TTIs went on much easier! I don't scrape every speed bump now! Great product!
Heck yeah, I love mine. Worth every penny in my opinion.
They will work with power steering?
yes sir. My buddy has a set on his Duster with power steering.
I have them on my Duster. They do fit well!
Know then, they are awesome.
I want Longtubes on my 383 Sport Fury just being stubborn about pulling the trigger on them. I have full TTi 2.5 on it now with stock Manifolds and I could believe how much happier the motor was with this setup. Ran cooler instantly . Can’t imagine how much it would gain from Longtubes’
@@mrmoparrr They are expensive but I think they’re worth it. You’ll love them. My buddy recently put a set of the ceramic coated on his ‘70 Polara 383 and he couldn’t be happier with them.
The #5204 1-3/4" Hookers fit better and flow better than the 1-5/8" typical A-body SBM header. Have used them in 3 cars with good results. All of these cars had manual steering, which helps, and one with a kicked-out Milodon pan actually contacted the kickout slightly, which was a simple fix. IDK if Hooker still makes these but I would use them again. I do have TTi stepped SBM headers on a F-M-J body (LeBaron/Aspen/Diplomat/Volare, etc.) that worked great (supposed to fit B&E with SBM as well).
I have heard the super comp hookers were better than the regular comp. In the late 90s to mid 2000s I read High Performance Mopar magazine a lot. When the TTIs came out they talked them things up big time. That’s the main reason I bought them back in ‘07.
Still love them.
I used these on my Duster and while they do install very nice, they also hang low for a street car. Switched to the TTI and they tuck up much tighter.
@@WashyHippo1 that they do.
I believe the #5204 1-3/4" are the same ones I ran back in 1985 on my Demon 340 which I still own. I put the stock exhaust back on in 1986. I still have the headers and was looking at them a few days ago. The only problem I had was the collector didn't line up with the Trans crossmember clearance tunnel for the factory pipes. This created a tight fit and the exhaust would rub on the crossmember and vibrate in the car. If I flattened the tube on the exhaust maybe they would have cleared? Those headers are still like new. Maybe a 1000 miles on them?
@@craigcontofalsky4387 I'd like to buy them if you'd sell. I let a friend race my car and he foolishly drove off the return road in the dark, and hit a washout, bottoming the header on the asphalt shoulder. 😢
Your video just made me buy some tti headers today. I fought and fought my cheap hooker headers and couldn’t get the driver side on. #1 tube interfered with bolt head. Even after denting it couldn’t get it on. Said screw it and I’ll be picking up my TTIs today. Lol.
Nice! They’re expensive but worth it.
Thanks for the video. Think my next set of headers will be TTI. I went completely the other way and bought the cheapest headers on ebay. And I got what I payed for. Total fight to get on my 71 Demon.
You won’t regret buying the TTIs.
As usual with your videos, you did a great job explaining everything and showing how to install! Nice job!
I remember how pleased you were after your original installation. 😍
Thank you, and I still am.
My neck is still aching watching you put those headers on😂. It’s been a few years since I have installed a set of headers on one of my cars. I appreciate your video.
Lol. A lift or a second set of hands would have helped. Glad you enjoyed it 🛞
@@Duster_Garage that’s the same place I’m at. I could sure use a lift. And most of the time, no spare hand. Maybe one day😛
Great to know, my King racing bearing’s finally came in after 5 months for my 418, what a mess that was, now I see how my builder is going to install my TTI headers, thanks again for sharing 👍
No problem buddy. Sounds like you’re going to have a ripper on your hands.
Looks GREAT!!! Duster is looking fantastic!!
Thanks Buddy
I’m definitely gonna need new headers soon, I definitely have to look into those
If you get them, you won’t regret it.
@@Duster_Garage they look good!
Great video, I wanted to get a set for a A body. You answered my questions. Thanks
Thank you, I’m glad I could help.
@@Duster_GarageGreat video. I'm glad to see there's a better design available today than 50 years ago. You're correct. All the older designs were a bear 🐻 to install.
@@NobilityandLoyalty Thanks. You got that right
My grandson now has my old 75 Duster that I built. I used the 360 HP exhaust manifolds W/ a 2 1/2" exhaust, 318. I did away with the factory Plymouth TV linkage & used a TV cable off of an A-500 or A-518 transmission. It is a bolt on to the 727 or 904 on the trans end and the upper end takes the same connection as a turbo 350/ 700-R4 GM transmission. Piece of cake to install. I tried several header types and none would clear the power steering. This A body seems to have manual steering so does the TTI setup clear a power steering unit? I had to fab my own down pipe from the left exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. Lots of trial & error & several wasted bends but I finally got it to clear & look decent. I also used the later (late 80s) Chrysler Denso starter. Getting rid of the factory mechanical TV linkage helped a bunch. Great install video, thanks for the effort. I do appreciate that because I hate working on exhaust under a car.
@@larryhutchens7593 Yes, the TTI headers definitely work with power steering. My buddy has them on his Dart(318 with power steering). They are expensive but you won’t regret the purchase.
Not to knock Mopar but I love my small and big block chevys when it come to installing headers. They just slide in and bolt up. But the performance improvements are worth it even if it a headache.
I’ve never installed headers on a Chevy before but they do have large engine bays. I can believe it.
👏🏻👏🏻 Great video! Definitely worth your time! However they are just so pricey. “You gotta pay to play” isnt that right?
That’s a fact!
You only hit water on very front and very rear bolt holes into the iron head (at least on my small block Mopar). I have installed Doug headers in my duster with manual steering and a 4 speed. Similar steps as you did, but I also had to remove the drivers torsion bar to get them in there. They also hug the motor nicely and leave lots of ground clearance, but are quite a bit different than the TTI design.
I don’t have any personal experience with the Doug’s but from what I’ve seen, they are much better than hookers.
Good video.
What tube size do you have?
Thanks for sharing the process.
Merry Christmas.
Thank you Ed. They are a 1 5/8- 1 3/4 stepped tube header. Have a great Christmas and a happy new year.
You the man!
Right back at ya! 🤜🤛
Thanks for the review. I used to install the starter first before installing when I used Hooker headers. You could get a starter out but it was just easier to do it first.
How easy is it to access the starter bolts and replacing the starter?
I didn’t see the gaskets. Did you cut the gaskets for a three piece gasket install?
The way they tuck up is impressive. Thanks. Enjoy watching your videos.
When you installed the engine did you install with the transmission all at once?
The starter and bolts are actually quite easy with the headers installed. I didn’t cut the gaskets. They are Mr.Gasket ultra seal. When I install the engine, I do that first. Then I put the trans up in from underneath. Thank you for watching. Glad you liked it.
What size tires and wheels are you running on the back of the Duster ? Also what is the backspace on the wheels ???
I run 15x8 wheels. 4.5 inch backspacing. I like 275x60r15 tires.
Thank you , same size I run on the rear of both my small block Dusters.
@@franklong8573 No problem
Good info !!!
No problem buddy
@@Duster_Garage Earlier this summer I had a 360 built for my old Demon. Haven't finished cleaning and painting underneath. So I haven't gotten it installed yet. But I got a set of Dougs long tube headers. Heard decent things about them & how they fit. Had it tuned on a dyno with them on. Hope they fit OK. Good installation video. Thx.
@@tims72demon I think they are a similar design as the TTIs, not the hookers. Good luck on the install
I may have missed it. What header bolts did you use? A long time ago I thought I saw someplace that they come with bolts but the on them was small. But I’m old and I could be miss remembering lol.
You’re right, I use the bolts that came with the TTI headers. When I got them, they came with all gaskets and bolts needed. And reducers as well.
I have a question. These headers ceramic coated or chrome? Thank you. Oh also is it necessary to lift engine for driver header install?
I got chrome but you can get ceramic coated for a little more money. And yes, the engine will need to be lifted a little bit.
100% agree...hooker headers on 440 E body Cars whew !! ...tough bolt fasten in some situations along with starter issues...they're tight....TTI looks far better
I think TTI put a lot of time into designing their headers and it does show.
how easy is it to remove the Manual steering box at 4:40 you removed all linkage. i have not done that in a long time but it was an E-Body?I have that Borgansin 16:1 and its crazy trying to drive at lower speed turning around. I got factory one to put in yet. hey aree you running that R.P.M. intake? there is a video showing how poorly they flow , here he show ported flow.ruclips.net/video/7AcGTLt7F1k/видео.htmlsi=ZOYVHVM8ksoQ7-x
I haven’t removed the steering box with the engine/headers in. But I think there is enough room to get it out. I have the rpm Air Gap intake manifold. From everything I’ve heard, it’s the best flowing dual plane intake on the market.
I have Doug's d-453 headers and am getting ready to put my 360 magnum in my 74 duster any info on them? They said they fit right in with power steering
I think they’re supposed to be a similar design as TTIs. I’ve never put a set on before. A friend of mine tried putting a set on his Duster, 4 speed with power steering. He had to bash the tubes for clearance around the steering box. He ended up giving up on them and bought a set of TTIs.
I run TTIs on all 3 of my a bodies. Hooker hung way to low and Doug’s fit was too tight
Yeah, the Hooker headers I had got the hell beat out of them on the bottom.
Great video do 440's have coolant in the head bolts?
I’m not sure. Honestly, I have very little experience with big blocks. Sorry
@@Duster_Garage OK, I guess I can Google it thanks nice car, I got a 69 Dart 440/727 B7 blue
@@Alexander-nb1rzNice! Big block Dart. Very cool.
Dude. I beat my head on hooker headers for weeks. The tti ones are Hella expensive though.
The TTIs are expensive but they fit awesome. I’ve heard the Doug’s headers fit good and they are less expensive.
We put tti s on my buddies 66 belvedere 440 and it was a nightmare
Dang, I would have thought with the b-bodies big engine bay it would have been a breeze.
No the starter was just a pain in the butt The passenger side was just as bad For the money i would have expected better Way over rated@@Duster_Garage