The passenger header prevented me from installing the torsion bar. Here's the video of the tour at TTI that shows their process. • How High Performance H...
Wow!! That is a lot of work to make those headers work! I thought TTI were suppose to be the headers that fit. I can't believe you had to use a solid Rock Bar in order to bend it into place. I've never messed with Car headers, but I think , like you said they are either bent wrong or they are for a B block. You sure did put in a ton of work making those header fit!! I got worn out just watching! Good Job Jonny!
I had the same problem with TTI 2" long tube headers on my big block 69 Coronet with 906 heads. TTI support told me to send the header to them for bending or bend it myself. I installed a concrete anchor and an eye bolt in the floor and used a turnbuckle wire cable tensioner connected between the header flange and the eye bolt. I moved the header 1/2" to 5/8" or so and problem solved. FYI, you have to move the header about 1/2" further than needed to account for the flex in the motor mounts and header tubes. Good luck with your project.
Dude, God love you for going through all of that work fixing TTI's junk. For the price they charge you expect to bolt that shit in a go like Doug's Headers.
I got to thank you for posting this video it helps all of us out here who spend our hard earn money on parts and run in to these issues all the time!! Even worse in this car as you spend the money for a good fit and quality and it obviously was way off!!
I had a similar problem with an aftermarket K-member. The driver side adjustable strut rod would not line up with the welded bracket on the K-member. The company assured me it was not their issue. We spend a lot of $$ to get these parts, yet many of those same parts do not fit properly. The time and energy we expend making things "work" is just ridiculous.
In past header work I've seen black deck out of parallel issue, irregular head gasket thicknesses, cylinder head machining on one side with opposite head never been touched. Twisted frame rails, K frame irregularities causes TOLERANCE STACK..... Big picture thinking fixed with a prybar. 😊
1 am and you got me stressed the F out over here in bed bro. Talking to my screen....hit that...no bend that....yeah right there....no little bit to the left.....about to go in the garage and slide under my RR measuring my shit.....wow just wow....Lmao 🤣
I Bet you $10 they accidentally gave you Headers for a "B" motor and not an "RB" motor cuz that would be the .75 difference you needed. I know Hooker and Doug's make different ones that are different lengths "Down" to clear the torsion bar. It looks like all you need is the Header to drop down ".75" and that's the hight difference from a B and RB block (you know that). I'd Take them back bro! They gave you the wrong setup....I'm sure it was an accidental whatevs it's TTI it's supposed to just slide in. If you wanted all that work you could of got some cheap Hookers lol
Wow, what a nightmare. I wonder if before you break in the cam, you could pull on the collector with a chain or metal strap of some kind (so it doesn’t melt like a nylon strap would lol), then start the engine and maybe the tubes will take a set from the heat and the collector won’t rebound after it cools? And sorry, I gotta say it, but be careful pulling on the car from the shop posts while it’s on jackstands.
The problem is not the headers, the exhaust port is move around from stock location.that greatly effects the fit. You could try spacing the K member down 1/2 inch with spacers between the K member and frame
I hate exhaust work , big gains though and I'll be dag nabbed my dart has crazy 2 piece headers , one even goes down through the k frame! Great close ups and focus for being that pissed ! Lol
Hey Jonny, came across your video about “TTI header fitment issues”. Sounds like another header companies quality control dropped the ball! A friend of mine had similar issues with a set of 2 1/8 hooker’s on a 72’ challenger w/ a 440. They blamed everything except their own workmanship! Too many times I’ve had to rework the flange plate to head just to get the gasket to seal, and that’s right out of the box !! Many times I’ve had to tweak tubes just like what you did, so I feel for ya bro! I do have a few tricks if you’re ever interested. Want to chat about these mopars sometime, let me know, I’ll shoot ya my p#…good luck bro 😎
Messenger is best you have that. I’m on Facebook as Jonny Mopar too. If you are on there give me what your name is on Facebook and I’ll shoot you a PM.
You would think that those high dollar headers would bolt up in a b body perfect I got a 67 coronet 440 at the moment bought blackjack headers 30 years ago fit perfect in it with a 440 or a 383 had every big block in it since 1982 when I bought it I have never had that much of a problem with a set of headers but I have never had a set of tti until I put a set of 2 in in my valiant 440 they hit both torsion bars and steering box manual and they angle inward at the collector about 30 degrees next headers I buy will be Doug's if it is a big block
Exactly. I paid a lot of money for these things. I know they gave me a low deck header on the passenger side cause I have TTI’s on my Coronet’s 440 and they fit. I’m going to Doug’s for now on too.
Man that was way more work than it should have been for the outrageous prices they charge. For me, the fact that they market themselves as THE HEADERS THAT FIT, they should have offered to swap it for a different header. Then if it didn’t fit talk about tweaking it.
I never had any trouble with the passenger side on E body cuda. i used cheap o headers no problems. i had engine in car and Jacked engine up each side never removed suspension to do the work
Well i never had a issue with my TTI Headers fiting my car.. I have a 66 plymouth Satellite with a 440 and indy sr heads i had the 2" into 2 1/8 step headers fit perfect never hit anything..
Nope. Engine is where it’s supposed to be. Some have even asked if the motor mount on that side is thicker pushing the engine up. It’s not. I think they mixed up my set with a low deck headers on the passenger side. Driver side fits perfectly.
It’s not touching but it is plugged into a nipple on the header. It’s used to create a vacuum and it pulls pressure out of the crankcase. The other end mounts to a breather on the valve cover.
What about a couple of wide ratchet straps carefully hooked into the left unibody frame rail? You could have "one man" power with nice steady control... Good luck with it anyway, Frank Parks at Mopar Restos in Summerville, Ga.
I'm having the same issue with my '69 Road Runner with these headers. I'm out at least as much as you. Maybe more since I have PST torsion bars that are thicker than those stock ones you have. Really sucks!
If feel your pain TLR. Is wish there was an easy solution but bending the exhaust seems to be the only answer. I haven’t worked on the Charger in a bit. The header has since flexed back to touching the torsion bar. When I do get back on it I’ll need to get it on a lift to get the room I need to really bend it over. My next set of headers will be Doug’s Headers.
@@JonnyMopar when you bend the header away from the bar, before you release the tension cover the header pipes and give them a rap with a ball peen hammer to "shock" the metal and it will not spring back anywhere near as far...do it a couple times...tension, tap then release. if they are springing back with no heat they are gonna move a mile when they get heat put to them. shocking the metal stops that.
@@JonnyMopar I was thinking that you could damage those heads by bending on those tubes. Thats a lot of force. I have never seen it but, Murpheys law says it could happen. Also, Im not sure you had the transmission bolted in place. It looked like it was moving a lot. Possibly, the transmission was not centered. Dont know, just something to think about.
I put Doug’s Headers on my 70 Charger (383 4-speed) and had to do quite a lot of clearancing to the drivers side around the z-bar and torsion bar. Also the header and the starter must go in (or come out) together. Buyer beware.
Wow!! That is a lot of work to make those headers work! I thought TTI were suppose to be the headers that fit. I can't believe you had to use a solid Rock Bar in order to bend it into place. I've never messed with Car headers, but I think , like you said they are either bent wrong or they are for a B block. You sure did put in a ton of work making those header fit!! I got worn out just watching! Good Job Jonny!
I had the same problem with TTI 2" long tube headers on my big block 69 Coronet with 906 heads. TTI support told me to send the header to them for bending or bend it myself. I installed a concrete anchor and an eye bolt in the floor and used a turnbuckle wire cable tensioner connected between the header flange and the eye bolt. I moved the header 1/2" to 5/8" or so and problem solved. FYI, you have to move the header about 1/2" further than needed to account for the flex in the motor mounts and header tubes.
Good luck with your project.
Dude, God love you for going through all of that work fixing TTI's junk. For the price they charge you expect to bolt that shit in a go like Doug's Headers.
I paid the 💰 because they’re supposed to fit. They fit on my Coronets 440. They fit on my Mom’s Chargers 383.
Next long tubes will be Doug’s. Used small block ones on a Duster before (manual steering), they fit great.
I got to thank you for posting this video it helps all of us out here who spend our hard earn money on parts and run in to these issues all the time!! Even worse in this car as you spend the money for a good fit and quality and it obviously was way off!!
Thanks for making the video makes me feel better knowing I was not the only person that had to go through it mine was a 70 B Body 440
You’re welcome. So aggravating.
I had a similar problem with an aftermarket K-member. The driver side adjustable strut rod would not line up with the welded bracket on the K-member. The company assured me it was not their issue. We spend a lot of $$ to get these parts, yet many of those same parts do not fit properly. The time and energy we expend making things "work" is just ridiculous.
Agreed
In past header work I've seen black deck out of parallel issue, irregular head gasket thicknesses, cylinder head machining on one side with opposite head never been touched. Twisted frame rails, K frame irregularities causes TOLERANCE STACK..... Big picture thinking fixed with a prybar. 😊
Lol. Thanks Irvin.
1 am and you got me stressed the F out over here in bed bro. Talking to my screen....hit that...no bend that....yeah right there....no little bit to the left.....about to go in the garage and slide under my RR measuring my shit.....wow just wow....Lmao 🤣
I Bet you $10 they accidentally gave you Headers for a "B" motor and not an "RB" motor cuz that would be the .75 difference you needed. I know Hooker and Doug's make different ones that are different lengths "Down" to clear the torsion bar. It looks like all you need is the Header to drop down ".75" and that's the hight difference from a B and RB block (you know that). I'd Take them back bro! They gave you the wrong setup....I'm sure it was an accidental whatevs it's TTI it's supposed to just slide in. If you wanted all that work you could of got some cheap Hookers lol
Low deck header? The torsion bar should have been above the header tube? Does it look like it's at the same height vs header tubes on your other car?
Wow, what a nightmare. I wonder if before you break in the cam, you could pull on the collector with a chain or metal strap of some kind (so it doesn’t melt like a nylon strap would lol), then start the engine and maybe the tubes will take a set from the heat and the collector won’t rebound after it cools? And sorry, I gotta say it, but be careful pulling on the car from the shop posts while it’s on jackstands.
I did similar to hold off of T-bar. Used heavy hose clamps
The problem is not the headers, the exhaust port is move around from stock location.that greatly effects the fit. You could try spacing the K member down 1/2 inch with spacers between the K member and frame
Theses are RPM heads. Exhaust ports are in the stock location. It’s the passenger header only. I think it was a low deck put in an RB box.
I hate exhaust work , big gains though and I'll be dag nabbed my dart has crazy 2 piece headers , one even goes down through the k frame! Great close ups and focus for being that pissed ! Lol
Hey Jonny, came across your video about “TTI header fitment issues”. Sounds like another header companies quality control dropped the ball! A friend of mine had similar issues with a set of 2 1/8 hooker’s on a 72’ challenger w/ a 440. They blamed everything except their own workmanship! Too many times I’ve had to rework the flange plate to head just to get the gasket to seal, and that’s right out of the box !! Many times I’ve had to tweak tubes just like what you did, so I feel for ya bro! I do have a few tricks if you’re ever interested. Want to chat about these mopars sometime, let me know, I’ll shoot ya my p#…good luck bro 😎
Messenger is best you have that. I’m on Facebook as Jonny Mopar too. If you are on there give me what your name is on Facebook and I’ll shoot you a PM.
@@JonnyMopar cool, I’ll do that tomorrow 👍
loosen the motor mounts and rotate the motor.Thats my experence
You would think that those high dollar headers would bolt up in a b body perfect I got a 67 coronet 440 at the moment bought blackjack headers 30 years ago fit perfect in it with a 440 or a 383 had every big block in it since 1982 when I bought it I have never had that much of a problem with a set of headers but I have never had a set of tti until I put a set of 2 in in my valiant 440 they hit both torsion bars and steering box manual and they angle inward at the collector about 30 degrees next headers I buy will be Doug's if it is a big block
Exactly. I paid a lot of money for these things. I know they gave me a low deck header on the passenger side cause I have TTI’s on my Coronet’s 440 and they fit. I’m going to Doug’s for now on too.
Man that was way more work than it should have been for the outrageous prices they charge. For me, the fact that they market themselves as THE HEADERS THAT FIT, they should have offered to swap it for a different header. Then if it didn’t fit talk about tweaking it.
I never had any trouble with the passenger side on E body cuda. i used cheap o headers no problems. i had engine in car and Jacked engine up each side never removed suspension to do the work
Nice. I never had a problem either, even with TTI’s till this set.
Wow....that's a pain in the butt!!!
@@JonnyMoparSounds good!!! I haven't got any from you yet.
@@JonnyMopar Thank you sir!!!
Sucks that you had to fight it!
Well i never had a issue with my TTI Headers fiting my car..
I have a 66 plymouth Satellite with a 440 and indy sr heads i had the 2" into 2 1/8 step headers fit perfect never hit anything..
I have the same set on my 440 in my 68 Coronet that fit like a glove. But they somehow screwed up the passenger side of the set on the Charger.
That’s crazy.
Are the engine mounts moving that block farther to the passenger side more so than the already factory offset of what 1-1/8” ?!
Nope. Engine is where it’s supposed to be. Some have even asked if the motor mount on that side is thicker pushing the engine up. It’s not. I think they mixed up my set with a low deck headers on the passenger side. Driver side fits perfectly.
Rubber hose touching the headers? Or is that just an illusion?
It’s not touching but it is plugged into a nipple on the header. It’s used to create a vacuum and it pulls pressure out of the crankcase. The other end mounts to a breather on the valve cover.
What about a couple of wide ratchet straps carefully hooked into the left unibody frame rail? You could have "one man" power with nice steady control... Good luck with it anyway, Frank Parks at Mopar Restos in Summerville, Ga.
I'm having the same issue with my '69 Road Runner with these headers. I'm out at least as much as you. Maybe more since I have PST torsion bars that are thicker than those stock ones you have. Really sucks!
If feel your pain TLR. Is wish there was an easy solution but bending the exhaust seems to be the only answer. I haven’t worked on the Charger in a bit. The header has since flexed back to touching the torsion bar. When I do get back on it I’ll need to get it on a lift to get the room I need to really bend it over. My next set of headers will be Doug’s Headers.
@@JonnyMopar I'm afraid that the the bolts in the aluminum heads will pull out if I reef on it like you did.
@@tlr-nut7275 I'm not gonna lie, I was concerned about it too. I have aluminum heads on this car.
@@JonnyMopar when you bend the header away from the bar, before you release the tension cover the header pipes and give them a rap with a ball peen hammer to "shock" the metal and it will not spring back anywhere near as far...do it a couple times...tension, tap then release. if they are springing back with no heat they are gonna move a mile when they get heat put to them. shocking the metal stops that.
I had the same problem on both sides in a 440 A body with 2" TTI .
Check your motor mount on that side .
Motor Mount is correct.
Thats going to melt the torsion bar grommet. Mabe even light it.
@@JonnyMopar I was thinking that you could damage those heads by bending on those tubes. Thats a lot of force. I have never seen it but, Murpheys law says it could happen. Also, Im not sure you had the transmission bolted in place. It looked like it was moving a lot. Possibly, the transmission was not centered. Dont know, just something to think about.
I really think those are for a B block not a RB sorry man 👍🇺🇸
Nothing like paying at least 800 bucks for headers that don't fit.
tell me about it.
Not right Maaan Send it back. It’s gonna Raddle.
Yes! It will.
Doug’s has B and RB specific headers. I don’t know if TTI does bought theirs once and they sucked always use Doug’s now
I put Doug’s Headers on my 70 Charger (383 4-speed) and had to do quite a lot of clearancing to the drivers side around the z-bar and torsion bar. Also the header and the starter must go in (or come out) together. Buyer beware.
Looks like it was designed for B block, not RB.
Yeah, I think they gave me the wrong passenger side. Driver side was perfect.
Headers to B engine? Not RB?
I think they gave me a passenger B engine header. Driver side was fine. I ordered RB headers.
its not my headers they're perfect! your car is bent! LOL
Lol. I shoulda hit the car with a hammer to fit the headers.
This is familiar….