That is soo cool. The car is soooo clean, stock looking!! I had my 73 Duster with just a 318 and the car ripped! Ran over 300,000 miles before I even tore into it for the first time. And to think, back in the 80's, you couldn't give Dusters or Mavericks or Vegas or Darts away and now, the prices on them are insane!
@@georgewetzel4380, it was a small economy car made by Chevrolet during the 70s. Usually powered by a 4 cylinder. A few savvy individuals installed V8s in them and went racing.
Very nice job on that Duster. It runs really well. My brother had a Dart with a pump gas 340, with W2 heads and solid lifters back in the 80s. SS springs, 4.30 gear, 9" converter, 3400# with driver. Ran mid 10s with bests in the 10.30s in good air. Nobody but us knew what it ran. He waxed so many big block cars on the street with that combination it was hysterical. They couldn't understand how it was possible to be gaped by a little 340. lol
Nice Duster!! Sounds fabulous! ready to bring mine out.. 340, 727, 391 with a sure grip.. ought to be interesting 🤔 - ya have good tips and tricks thanks!!
Love it, This man knows how to do a proper video to answer straight forward questions. What he talks about is for Mopar but applies to any car ;) Many people look for this kind of video. Excellent job bro!
Nice ride. I appreciate the fact that you are direct and to the point.i just started a 360 Dart project and your combination is really close to what I am considering for my engine and car. Thank you.
I have been struggling to bring down my ets any input welcome 67 barracuda 3150 lbs 3000 ft alt 71 360 .060 over kb 107s .005 in the hole edelbrock heads ported 293@ .6 Hughes stl 246-250@ 108 lsa Rpm air gap 750 demon dbbl pumper ,411s ,tko 600 transmission best to date 12.59 on a red light my next plans are advancing cam trimming 4 deg more dynamic compression thinner head gasket 0.039 to 0.030 and 1.6 rockers
Hmmm. The combo you have sounds pretty well matched. I would think you should be in the 11s. The altitude is definitely hurting you but you can’t change that. I think you are on the right track with advancing the cam. Have you measured cranking cylinder pressure? Mine is 165-170 with iron heads. I’ve heard you can run 195-200 with aluminum heads and still use pump gas. What header/exhaust are you running?
Cool! Another Duster owner from my area! I live pretty close to the track and own a 1972 Duster 340 Petty Blue car. I think I have seen the yellow car run but not the white one! Nice cars!!
Man does that bring back memories, I bought a 71 340 duster when I was 19. She was a rust bucket but I loved her. Original yellow car too. I still have dreams Im driving her 41 years later. Lol. May need to find another to play with. Never could get headers to fit it!
Man glad to hear someone else using a MOPAR performance cam. I have a 360 only bored .020 over anmd stock dish pistons. Not a hot rod. '79 gutless wonder truck. Built it only for better low end torque. Cam me using is 168/172 Mopar, and a 600 spread bore holley. Accell ignition, all of it. I rebuilt trans and went with a 5 disk clutch and valve body kit so fluid flows in park.
That's pretty crazy. I would expect a 13 - 14 second car with that setup. Crazy that thing runs Not 12's but 11's!!! Sounds fantastic, just like a good muscle car should! Always loved the 360. I think only the 440 has a longer stroke so they've always been great with torque as well as hp.
Man that is a nice car and quick for what it is! A friend of mine just changed his two chamber mufflers to a straight through muffler and picked up two tenths and 3mph in the 1/4 with no other changes!
Thank you. That’s good results from a muffler change. Last year I did remove my exhaust and ran 3” diameter, 18” long collector extensions with bullet mufflers but my car only picked up 1/100th in the 1/4.
Replied to your newest video but I'm not sure if you saw it. Since you have that high of a stall speed and that much gear you really should try locking out your distributor then dialing the timing in at the track. You have nothing to lose and can always put it back. I know a few people who say it won't do anything to help but I know more people who have actually tried it and said son of a.. and kept it locked out.
Yes, I did read it. I am going to try increasing rear tire psi. I thought I responded back to you. I never tried locking the distributor out but I do have the lightest springs installed for the mechanical advance(no vacuum advance). 36 degrees all in by 1800 rpm.
@@Duster_Garage I made another post under the same thread about your timing. Even with the recurve, like I said, you should try locking it out, you have nothing to lose. Run it at the track to see the difference. At times the old butt dyno is off. Plus if you're running that light of a spring there is a good chance the weights are bouncing a little on the top end giving slightly erratic timing.
@@peskypeet I will have to give that a try. I never thought about the timing becoming unstable at high rpm, that’s a good thought. It’s pretty easy to lock out the MSD distributor I think.
@@Duster_Garage It's incredibly easy to do. Just as easy to reverse if you don't find it helpful in some way. Adjust the total timing at the track using the fuel of your choice and stick with it. You may find it wants a little more or a little less.
I had a setup almost exactly the same. 509 purple shaft cam. It was 380 hp and 475 lbs tq. I now have a stroker in it, 408, Edelbrock heads and I’m 495 hp and 520 lbs tq
Very similar to my 72 Duster. I have the same rear, gear ratio, axles, suspension, transmission, and converter. The only difference is my 360 has been stroked to 408 with aluminum heads and it is now running 11.17s very consistently. Only weighs 3,300 lbs with me in it.
my dad could never get those small blocks to run that way good stuff.. hed just get a 440 509 intake and 1050 carb and run 11.5s all day 1.6ft think he also had 456 gears..if i ever find me a old a body would def go small blockl
@@Duster_Garage my first car was 2013 challenger which now im tryin to run with the big dogs in x275 class but i grew up with my family owning old mopars with my dad owning 2 71 challengers uncles with darts and dusters and the other satellite which he build all there 440s..
@@Duster_Garage 490s in the cold 5.0s consistent in the eighth ..all basically with still somewhat of a full body car..before the motor let go and im having another rebuild
I know these are mopars but for borsepower sake had a 67 camaro original 327 30 over,comp cam,dart heads ,600 vac secondaries,4 10 gears turbo automatic,107 mph through the traps gave me about 340 hp at the rear wheels ran 12.5-12.6 times this back in 1990.little more cubes ,and fuel setup makes a difference,I ran with stock fuel setup.
do you run the new Hi Volume Aluminum Water pump? or the steel one from 1969 and back style, i wonder what the HP Differences are or the same. the batteries are kind of heavy and a light weight one can be had at half the weight, but at a co$t
I do have the later aluminum water. I’m not sure if there is much hp difference. I do have a smaller than stock battery, I think it came out of a Mazda Protege.
What is the story with the front suspension? : torsion bar size, shocks, which front wheels and tires, breaks, how much does the car weigh? what are your 60' times like? thanks in advance!
The torsion bars are MP 340 resto, .870". The front shocks are Competition Engineering adjustables set to 90/10. Front wheels are Jegs pro stars 15x4 and tires are MT sportsman 26x7.5x15. Front brakes are 73 and up A-body single piston disc setup. And the car weighs a shade over 3000 pounds. Anything else don't hesitate to ask.
I run a very similar set up in my dart sport, a little bit more gear and less cam than you but after hearing yours run I believe I definitely need more cam. The car sounds and looks badass
Good clean solid build . I did I a very similar build on a 75 duster . Mine also ran very strong and sounded fantastic !! Congrats ona nice street n strip fun duster .
You betcha !! Those wide rear fenderwells make for plenty of traction room and they have a more aerodynamic body style than a dart but don’t weigh anymore . Engine compartment is a little tight but all A body weight meets deal with that. My opinion is small block in them of any cubic inch for what your doing with it is far superior to big block fitment and weight differences. Mopar suspension is easy to make work and a Direct Connection Chassis catalog is racers gold !!
I have a 68 2 dr sedan now and am building a street n 1/8 mile 318 stroked to 393 with reverse valve body TCI 727 and TCI 3500 10 in hot street n track converter with a narrowed 66 C body 8 3/4 with any choice of 3.23,4.30,4.56 gears. Selling the complete 8 1/4 with 4.10 and Trac Lok after the other is complete. Should be a solid but potent hot street and occasional track fun car.
Nice car , shows what we'll thought out and attention to detail build will get you . A lot guys throw $ at there cars and can't get out of there own way , good example of true tuning 👍 to get good ET !
We ran a very similar combination in a 1972 dart for years. The only real differences are we had a 727 transmission and a 4:30 gear. It ran 11.90s in good weather and 12.00s in the heat. The only thing we ever had to do to it was change oil and plugs. It was such a good consistent combination that it won me two championships at Bristol Dragway.
Great video! I bought a built 383, stall, 3:73 gears but can’t get past 14’s in Colorado. I’m not seeing where I went wrong on my build. Love your Duster!
What part of Colorado? I run a 366 small block now, but had a 360 sb an it would run low to mid 13’s and a 440 bb that would run 11’s at Pueblo. What’s the stall and what carburetor? Slicks?
@@wht240sxka wow that’s fast, I would love to break into the 13 someday. I live out by the airport, I just bought a DRAGY, going to see if I can finally break into a 30 year goal of running a 13 something in a quarter-mile. I have a very built transmission and a Branting 3300 stall converter. I just put on Mickey Thompson drag slicks in my latest video last week. I have not tried it yet, very excited for the snow to finally melt hopefully soon lol. I’m running an Edelbrock 750, Holly St., Dominator. Manifold.
@@maximuswedgie5149 Yeah that’s interesting Ryan. I would think you have a mid to high 12’s. What’s your rt and 60ft? Slower rt and spinning maybe? I watched a few of your videos, seems like the tires are a little small to hookup good and it’s kinda hard to tell but almost seemed like it had a flat spot like almost falling on its face. I would try to do some ignition and carb tuning. Pull the spark plugs and see what they look like to give you an idea. When you get some time watch 318willrun on ignition timing, it’s really the best way and he explains it well.
@@wht240sxka thanks for the info! I really appreciate the feedback, I certainly need it. Now that I have the drag radials hopefully it will help it hook up better. Yes, it definitely falls on its face, I cannot seem to get my eye don’t mixture screws to really do anything. it is been this way since I upgraded to my Holley blue electric fuel pump. I have my fuel pressure set at five. I will definitely check out the ignition video on 318 will run.👍👍 if you’re ever in Denver, or near Denver, let me know. Maybe I’ll see you at Bandimere or at Julesburg this year? Going to try to make Julesburg on the weekend of July 18 for the hot rod revival. If I can run a 13.99 it will be literally a 33 year goal of mine.
Wow, so close to my set up. My Duster has comp cams full roller cam set up (I'm not sure of the specs) and a Mopar M1 Highrise intake. I'm surprised you can fit such a tall air filter element with a stock hood. When my engine was on the dyno when it was fresh built pulled 425 horse and somewhere in the 500 footpounds. I would think you're in that ballpark as well 👍
How is the starter access? Can you use a stock type starter? I still have low hanging cheap dynomax ceramic headers. However, I can use a stock chrysler starter. Just need to remove pitman arm to do so.
I’m in my shop watching this and I’m thinking your mic might need turning up or it’s my shop stereo? Thanks for sharing, my 71 Demon should be up and running in two months, 418 stroker
Running the same set up on my small block 340 just with a flat tappet cam and trick flow heads swinging a 4in crank shaft .. 391 gears 904 trans outback really curious to see what it's going to run
Hi. Love the channel. Thank you. I have a stock Duster340 that runs like crap (thinking it’s carburetor.. has original thermoquad). But once I do get it squared away in the spring I was wondering what are the things you would do that are the most effective and cheapest way to get it into the mid 13s ? Thanks.
Thank you for saying so. If the engine is mechanical sound (good compression and oil pressure). I would think all you need is a good set of headers (TTI or Doug’s), Edelbrock performer rpm intake and a Holley 750 carb. Also, make sure all your ignition components are good and total timing is set to 35-36 degrees.
Dude awesome job man… nothin like a builder… I’m actually planning to restore my 70 charger rt… I’m just collecting parts before I do the body cause I think that’s the right way of doin it… I need help with the parts though dude… and restoration but shits expensive out there… so far I got a ray Barton 540 hemi for it making 760 hp and a tkx manual 5 gear trans… next is the strange Dana but gearing and wheels and transmission are all connected and I’m not sure about numbers… after that probably a hotchkis suspension….
@@Duster_Garage yeah dude it’s a dream but it ain’t easy… I ain’t a mechanic just a mopar driver lol but good job to ur ride dude very cool ride. 11s is no joke
425-440 HP ? Strange... never Dyno'd any of those 'back in the day' built sure built lots similar with the KB108's/2.02 J Heads worked a bit/Isky Hyd w/Solids... all I remember is figured somewhere's ~425 HP ?
Love your car I'm building a 74 with a mild 5.9 magnum and 727.i love the wheel and tire combo and want the same for mine.what is your size and backspacing on front and rear.thank you
Thanks man. Fronts are M/T sportsman tires 26x7.5x15 on 15x4” wheels, 1.75 backspacing. Rears are M/T et streets 275/60r15 tires. Wheels are 15x8, 4.5” backspacing.
Beautiful car, I love the build! I do have a question. Right after you were talking about the TTI headers you walked around the drivers side and I noticed a universal joint setup between your column and steering box. I’m curious if you had a power steering box (or still do) . I know that the manual steering cars have a longer column to accommodate the shorter box and if you swapped out the box and left a power steering column. I purchased an extension to go from the original power steering column to a manual box in my Dart - but if there are other options - I may consider doing a different setup. I have TTI headers and they work only with manual steering so I greatly appreciate your input. Thanks for the great video 😉👍
Yes, you are correct. This was a power steering car. I installed a flaming river manual box with their power to manual conversion kit. The prices for that stuff really went up since 2007 when I bought my parts. Thanks for watching, hope this helps.
@@Duster_Garage Thanks for the speedy reply. When I get to work on my ride I’ll see how it all goes together. Prices on everything have gone up substantially. I picked up a pair of the Eddy 61729 heads. I bought them in 2019 @ $1,600 each and I see them listed at $2,040 - and not in stock. I’m glad I got them when I did. Time for me to subscribe 😉👍
@@FreakOlds If I were to do the manual steering conversion again, I would get a used factory manual box and I think Mancini makes a more inexpensive adapter shaft.
Sorry I've watched all your videos so I'm kind of picking your brain on each video love the sound of your car you said that you're running a 3 inch exhaust system with Summit mufflers are they kind of a muffler that is similar to a Flowmaster and just out of curiosity what is the do you know what the part number is for those mufflers sounds great
Nice Ride and Great brake down 👍 how is rearend frame or spring set up ? Any re location for springs inboard ? Or do the Super Stocks keep tires off the quarters ...
Thank you. The frame rails are stock and the springs are in the stock location. The rear end is an A-body housing so it is kinda narrow. And the wheels have 4.5” of backspacing so the tires are close to the springs.
I ran the 3924s the 8 runs of my first TnT. Then, the first 2 runs of 8 runs for the second TnT. I swapped them out for a colder set of NGK 7s and immediately picked up 1 tenth. I ran them on my 3rd TnT and am currently running them now. I have some NGK FR5 I want to try too. They're closer to the 3924's heat range.
@Duster Garage NGK V-Power R5671A-7. I'm not sure, but I heard the non-protuding electrode on these helps promote a more effective flame front. I don't know how true that is, but I can confirm I gained a tenth with that being the only change. Can't hurt to try them out.
Beautiful car! You running 284 hemi grind? Did you change to adjustable rocker arms ? what gap are you running on the valves? Intake centerline straight up or advanced? Thank you
Thank you! Yes, the cam is a MP 284. I do have adjustable roller rockers with Lunati solid lifters. I set valve lash to .014" on the intake and exhaust. The cam is installed dot to dot, i didn't degree it.
After watching this about 10 times like it was the first time, I was wondering what your wheel and tire setups are. I.E. wheel and tire sizes. Also, what are your RPM shift points? I noticed you run swapped the steelies out for the Jegs stars, did that pick up any ET?
The fronts are 15x4 and the tires are 26x7.5x15 mt sportsman. On the street I usually run the 15x8 jegs wheels(4.5” backspacing) with 275/60r15 ET streets. At the track I usually run the 15x8 steelies(4” backspacing) with MT et drag slicks 26x10x15. I shift at 6500 rpm and go thru the traps at 6300 with the slicks. The et streets are 28” tall so trap rpm is 6100. It slows down a little with the drag radials because of them being taller. I should some time put the slicks on the aluminum wheels and see if it picks up any.
@Duster Garage Excellent information! I have a 727 vs. a 904 and picked up 28" ET Street Rs. Now I'm wondering if I should go with a 4.30 gear or the 4.10s I have. I will definitely try both 26" and 28" inches soon as the track opens. Thanks bruh!
@@CashMopar The wheels are 15x8 with 4.5” of backspacing. Tires are kinda close to the leaf springs because I have an A-body 8 3/4 rear. If you have a B-body rear in your Duster you would have plenty of room.
@@Duster_Garage ordering rims next Month. I might go with the 4 inch backspace. The tire can go out as far as it wants with these springs. Thank you so much for the info! Check out my Duster videos! Take care.
About 417 horsepower at around 6700 RPMs, torque is about 345 lb ft, flow is about 670 CFM at peak power / at the weather conditions when you went 11.72. I based my calculations on a race weight of 3400 pounds. A good set of solids was the way to go.
I'd say that the engine is probably making 425-440hp, and between 430 and 440Tq at the flywheel. Those 360's with good compression are torque making small blocks. If you had a higher flowing heads like the Magnums with light bowl blending, and blending the valve guides, I can see you getting up to 460hp at the flywheel and 470TQ. Still that car is no doubt a solid build!👍
Nice. Pretty impressive for what looks like a mild street car. I subbed. Got a question on the fans. Any idea what CFM they pull? Do you have a part number? And is the radiator a 26”? Thanks.
Very impressive budget build here's my question you said that you're running a Mopar performance probably a purple shaft cam 484 lift my question is this it's a hydraulic so you said you're running solid lifters my question is you just drop a set of solid lifters and off you go or is there other necessities that need to be done I have a racer Brown camshaft that's 292 duration 510 lift I'm curious if I can do the same thing with this camshaft I also have a mildly built 360 any information would be helpful love the video
Yes, it is a hydraulic cam. Over the years I had two sets of hydraulic lifters go bad. I had read you can run solids on a hydraulic cam. So I installed a set of Comp solid lifters and broke them in like you would with a new cam. I had adjustable rockers already and set hot lash to .014. I hope this helps.
@@kengruginski6889 I actually don’t have a Facebook page. I forgot one other thing, if you have dual valve springs, remove the inner springs for break-in.
Do you ever have trouble with gas boil? I did not see a return line so was curious if that airgap you run maybe keeps the carb cool enough to avoid gas boil after you shut off a hot engine. Nice car👊
Thank you. No, I have never had an issue with gas boil or vapor lock. The carb actually stays fairly cool, i guess because of the air gap and it has no heat cross over in it. I also have insulation on the fuel line.
@@Duster_Garage sweet! It’s scary how similar our cars are. Only difference is the compression ratio. Any how, I am considering spoiling the rear end but was worried it would twist axles shafts being a 30 spline.
73 Duster, 3680 lbs, 380hp MP Crate motor upgraded to worked over aluminum heads, 3800 stall, 370 gears. Only runs 9s in the 1/8 or 14's in the quarter. Never ever 1/10 second faster.
That’s really heavy for a Duster but should still run 12s. Something has to be going on. Make sure your distributor is advancing timing. Should be about 35 degrees by no later than 3000 rpm. If you have a vacuum secondary Holley, make sure the secondaries are actually opening. Either one will kill a lot of horsepower. Last time at the track I was parked next to a guy who had a Duster with the 380 hp crate engine. TTI headers, 3500 stall 727, 3.91 gears. Running 12.12s all day.
All i can say, is something is WRONG with the timing, set up, fuel (carb) , tranny, SOMETHING, combo aint workin rite......shud be ALOT faster/quicker.......dig into it, do some research, and wish you well!!
Hurray! someone who does not have the 2 "cheats" in place to run fast....a fkn stroker kit and $7K heads......folk have that cheater crap on and run 10s and think its fast,.🤣.... I have had a similar sort of build here in the UK for 35years , '68 Roadrunner, all steel, 3.23 gears, 383, 906 stock valve heads, 484 hyd cam and it runs 12.80s.......with 3.23 gear and a 1.94-2.00 60fts ! Hardly anyone can do that today, straight on the phone for a "cheater kit" and then gloat when they go the same speed LOL,, its the same over here now in the UK, everyone has the "cheats" in. great build right there mate
Very nice job on that Duster. It runs really well. My brother had a Dart with a pump gas 340, with W2 heads and solid lifters back in the 80s. SS springs, 4.30 gear, 9" converter, 3400# with driver. Ran mid 10s with bests in the 10.30s in good air. Nobody but us knew what it ran. He waxed so many big block cars on the street with that combination it was hysterical. They couldn't understand how it was possible to be gaped by a little 340. lol
No bull shit video series here, good work!
Thank you!
That is soo cool. The car is soooo clean, stock looking!! I had my 73 Duster with just a 318 and the car ripped! Ran over 300,000 miles before I even tore into it for the first time. And to think, back in the 80's, you couldn't give Dusters or Mavericks or Vegas or Darts away and now, the prices on them are insane!
Vega?
the A body mopars have aged especially well over the past 15 years
@@georgewetzel4380, it was a small economy car made by Chevrolet during the 70s. Usually powered by a 4 cylinder. A few savvy individuals installed V8s in them and went racing.
Very nice job on that Duster. It runs really well.
My brother had a Dart with a pump gas 340, with W2 heads and solid lifters back in the 80s. SS springs, 4.30 gear, 9" converter, 3400# with driver. Ran mid 10s with bests in the 10.30s in good air. Nobody but us knew what it ran. He waxed so many big block cars on the street with that combination it was hysterical. They couldn't understand how it was possible to be gaped by a little 340. lol
Nice! That sounds like one hell of a fun street car.
@@Duster_Garage It was a blast.
Nice Duster!! Sounds fabulous! ready to bring mine out.. 340, 727, 391 with a sure grip.. ought to be interesting 🤔 - ya have good tips and tricks thanks!!
Sounds like it’s going to be a fun ride. I’m glad you liked the video. I’ve watched your videos before, you’ve got some good info too brother.
Love it, This man knows how to do a proper video to answer straight forward questions. What he talks about is for Mopar but applies to any car ;) Many people look for this kind of video. Excellent job bro!
Thanks, I really appreciate you saying so! I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
Nice ride. I appreciate the fact that you are direct and to the point.i just started a 360 Dart project and your combination is really close to what I am considering for my engine and car. Thank you.
Thanks man. I’m always glad to help. If you ever have any questions, leave them in the comments. I’ll get back to you asap. Good luck with your build.
nice Duster
Thanks
I have been struggling to bring down my ets any input welcome 67 barracuda 3150 lbs 3000 ft alt 71 360 .060 over kb 107s .005 in the hole edelbrock heads ported 293@ .6 Hughes stl 246-250@ 108 lsa Rpm air gap 750 demon dbbl pumper ,411s ,tko 600 transmission best to date 12.59 on a red light my next plans are advancing cam trimming 4 deg more dynamic compression thinner head gasket 0.039 to 0.030 and 1.6 rockers
Hmmm. The combo you have sounds pretty well matched. I would think you should be in the 11s. The altitude is definitely hurting you but you can’t change that.
I think you are on the right track with advancing the cam. Have you measured cranking cylinder pressure? Mine is 165-170 with iron heads. I’ve heard you can run 195-200 with aluminum heads and still use pump gas.
What header/exhaust are you running?
Love this car
Love your car too! Lol 😂
Cool! Another Duster owner from my area! I live pretty close to the track and own a 1972 Duster 340 Petty Blue car. I think I have seen the yellow car run but not the white one! Nice cars!!
Sweet! Maybe I’ll see you at Mason Dixon in May for their Mopar day.
Not Petty Blue, in Plymouth it was called Street Basin Blue, in Dodge was called Super Blue .
Man does that bring back memories, I bought a 71 340 duster when I was 19. She was a rust bucket but I loved her. Original yellow car too. I still have dreams Im driving her 41 years later. Lol. May need to find another to play with. Never could get headers to fit it!
That’s awesome! You definitely should get another one, even if it’s only a slant six. They are just fun cars.
If it weighs 3000 and you run 11.73 should be 375ish. Very nice
Cool, thanks.
Man glad to hear someone else using a MOPAR performance cam. I have a 360 only bored .020 over anmd stock dish pistons. Not a hot rod. '79 gutless wonder truck. Built it only for better low end torque. Cam me using is 168/172 Mopar, and a 600 spread bore holley. Accell ignition, all of it. I rebuilt trans and went with a 5 disk clutch and valve body kit so fluid flows in park.
Nice, sounds like a stump puller with that cam. Monster low end torque.
That's pretty crazy. I would expect a 13 - 14 second car with that setup. Crazy that thing runs Not 12's but 11's!!! Sounds fantastic, just like a good muscle car should! Always loved the 360. I think only the 440 has a longer stroke so they've always been great with torque as well as hp.
Thanks man! The Hemi also has a longer stroke, but it’s in a league of it’s own.
Solid build runs/sounds great 💪🌠👍
Thank you
That's the car! A true legend.
The OG
Man that is a nice car and quick for what it is! A friend of mine just changed his two chamber mufflers to a straight through muffler and picked up two tenths and 3mph in the 1/4 with no other changes!
Thank you. That’s good results from a muffler change. Last year I did remove my exhaust and ran 3” diameter, 18” long collector extensions with bullet mufflers but my car only picked up 1/100th in the 1/4.
Replied to your newest video but I'm not sure if you saw it. Since you have that high of a stall speed and that much gear you really should try locking out your distributor then dialing the timing in at the track. You have nothing to lose and can always put it back.
I know a few people who say it won't do anything to help but I know more people who have actually tried it and said son of a..
and kept it locked out.
Yes, I did read it. I am going to try increasing rear tire psi. I thought I responded back to you. I never tried locking the distributor out but I do have the lightest springs installed for the mechanical advance(no vacuum advance). 36 degrees all in by 1800 rpm.
@@Duster_Garage I made another post under the same thread about your timing. Even with the recurve, like I said, you should try locking it out, you have nothing to lose. Run it at the track to see the difference. At times the old butt dyno is off.
Plus if you're running that light of a spring there is a good chance the weights are bouncing a little on the top end giving slightly erratic timing.
@@peskypeet I will have to give that a try. I never thought about the timing becoming unstable at high rpm, that’s a good thought. It’s pretty easy to lock out the MSD distributor I think.
@@Duster_Garage It's incredibly easy to do. Just as easy to reverse if you don't find it helpful in some way.
Adjust the total timing at the track using the fuel of your choice and stick with it. You may find it wants a little more or a little less.
Nice ride. Love those 360s!!
Thanks! They make awesome power for cheap.
Love the car! Nice job!
Thanks man!
Very clean duster! Runs extremely well for what it is. Keep up the good work brother!
Thanks Rob!
I had a setup almost exactly the same. 509 purple shaft cam. It was 380 hp and 475 lbs tq. I now have a stroker in it, 408, Edelbrock heads and I’m 495 hp and 520 lbs tq
Sweet! Very nice numbers
Nice clean, reliable set-up. I'll have to get to M/D next summer and see it run. Great vid. 👍
Thanks man. Maybe next year I’ll have a few small up grades too.
Very similar to my 72 Duster. I have the same rear, gear ratio, axles, suspension, transmission, and converter. The only difference is my 360 has been stroked to 408 with aluminum heads and it is now running 11.17s very consistently. Only weighs 3,300 lbs with me in it.
Dude, that’s a sweet Duster you have. Thing runs strong. I just checked out your channel. 👍
@@Duster_Garage thank you very much. Yours is sweet too!
@@hemimopar061 Thank you!
my dad could never get those small blocks to run that way good stuff.. hed just get a 440 509 intake and 1050 carb and run 11.5s all day 1.6ft think he also had 456 gears..if i ever find me a old a body would def go small blockl
It’s hard to beat a 440. I’ve never actually had a big block in a car.
@@Duster_Garage my first car was 2013 challenger which now im tryin to run with the big dogs in x275 class but i grew up with my family owning old mopars with my dad owning 2 71 challengers uncles with darts and dusters and the other satellite
which he build all there 440s..
@@xXtoyhippieXx x275 class are serious cars. What are you running in the 1/8 mile?
@@Duster_Garage 490s in the cold 5.0s consistent in the eighth ..all basically with still somewhat of a full body car..before the motor let go and im having another rebuild
I LOVE THE SOUND !! It's WICKED !!
Thanks man!
I know these are mopars but for borsepower sake had a 67 camaro original 327 30 over,comp cam,dart heads ,600 vac secondaries,4 10 gears turbo automatic,107 mph through the traps gave me about 340 hp at the rear wheels ran 12.5-12.6 times this back in 1990.little more cubes ,and fuel setup makes a difference,I ran with stock fuel setup.
340 Mopars Best. Tiny but all the strength.
the 340 is a great engine for sure.
do you run the new Hi Volume Aluminum Water pump? or the steel one from 1969 and back style, i wonder what the HP Differences are or the same. the batteries are kind of heavy and a light weight one can be had at half the weight, but at a co$t
I do have the later aluminum water. I’m not sure if there is much hp difference. I do have a smaller than stock battery, I think it came out of a Mazda Protege.
Car weight,tire size,speed through the traps with the moroso converter chart will give you hp relatively close.
Awesome MOPAR Build guys 🤙 I appreciate all your Tips and video's keep up the great build 😎💪 MOPARORNOCAR 👌
Thanks Danny, will do!
Beautiful car build Sir, O'm definitely a jealous guy, lol.
Thanks man
What is the story with the front suspension? : torsion bar size, shocks, which front wheels and tires, breaks, how much does the car weigh? what are your 60' times like? thanks in advance!
The torsion bars are MP 340 resto, .870". The front shocks are Competition Engineering adjustables set to 90/10. Front wheels are Jegs pro stars 15x4 and tires are MT sportsman 26x7.5x15. Front brakes are 73 and up A-body single piston disc setup. And the car weighs a shade over 3000 pounds. Anything else don't hesitate to ask.
@@Duster_Garage THANKS
@@like-a-pike4654 sorry, I forgot the 60’ time. 1.56-1.58
I run a very similar set up in my dart sport, a little bit more gear and less cam than you but after hearing yours run I believe I definitely need more cam. The car sounds and looks badass
Thanks man! I think it runs pretty good for what it is.
Are you able to run pump gas with 10:1 compression and iron heads?
Yes, that’s all I run. I put 110 octane in once to race at the track. It made no difference.
Hope to get my duster to the track coming up this year
Right on man! What are you workin’ with?
@@Duster_Garage 79 duster 452 stroker
@@tonylarimore1553 Nice! F-body Duster with a big block, cool.
Nice, set up what’s the header size?
Thanks. TTI 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 step header.
Good clean solid build . I did I a very similar build on a 75 duster . Mine also ran very strong and sounded fantastic !! Congrats ona nice street n strip fun duster .
Thanks man, they are a blast!
You betcha !! Those wide rear fenderwells make for plenty of traction room and they have a more aerodynamic body style than a dart but don’t weigh anymore . Engine compartment is a little tight but all A body weight meets deal with that. My opinion is small block in them of any cubic inch for what your doing with it is far superior to big block fitment and weight differences. Mopar suspension is easy to make work and a Direct Connection Chassis catalog is racers gold !!
@@NilesJStJohn I 100% agree with you. Small block all the way. I would never put a big block in an A-body.
I have a 68 2 dr sedan now and am building a street n 1/8 mile 318 stroked to 393 with reverse valve body TCI 727 and TCI 3500 10 in hot street n track converter with a narrowed 66 C body 8 3/4 with any choice of 3.23,4.30,4.56 gears. Selling the complete 8 1/4 with 4.10 and Trac Lok after the other is complete. Should be a solid but potent hot street and occasional track fun car.
@@NilesJStJohn Nice! That should be a tire frying torque monster.
What a nugget, who did the paint work?
It was actually painted at the collision center at the dealership I for.
Nice car , shows what we'll thought out and attention to detail build will get you . A lot guys throw $ at there cars and can't get out of there own way , good example of true tuning 👍 to get good ET !
Thanks Justin. It didn’t happen overnight, it took years of tweaking and tuning to get it where it is.
The car is sexy and sounds tough when idling!
Thanks babe!
We ran a very similar combination in a 1972 dart for years. The only real differences are we had a 727 transmission and a 4:30 gear. It ran 11.90s in good weather and 12.00s in the heat. The only thing we ever had to do to it was change oil and plugs. It was such a good consistent combination that it won me two championships at Bristol Dragway.
Nice! Mopar stuff is tough, hard to beat it.
👍Thanks!
No problem
I'd like to know what was in your head about that fuel line 🤔 keeping the fuel cold as you could
Yes, it is an attempt to insulate it from the engine bay heat.
Nice note.
Thanks
Great video! I bought a built 383, stall, 3:73 gears but can’t get past 14’s in Colorado. I’m not seeing where I went wrong on my build. Love your Duster!
Thanks man. I would probably be at least a second slower if I was in Colorado, high altitude.
What part of Colorado? I run a 366 small block now, but had a 360 sb an it would run low to mid 13’s and a 440 bb that would run 11’s at Pueblo. What’s the stall and what carburetor? Slicks?
@@wht240sxka wow that’s fast, I would love to break into the 13 someday. I live out by the airport, I just bought a DRAGY, going to see if I can finally break into a 30 year goal of running a 13 something in a quarter-mile. I have a very built transmission and a Branting 3300 stall converter. I just put on Mickey Thompson drag slicks in my latest video last week. I have not tried it yet, very excited for the snow to finally melt hopefully soon lol. I’m running an Edelbrock 750, Holly St., Dominator. Manifold.
@@maximuswedgie5149 Yeah that’s interesting Ryan. I would think you have a mid to high 12’s. What’s your rt and 60ft? Slower rt and spinning maybe? I watched a few of your videos, seems like the tires are a little small to hookup good and it’s kinda hard to tell but almost seemed like it had a flat spot like almost falling on its face. I would try to do some ignition and carb tuning. Pull the spark plugs and see what they look like to give you an idea. When you get some time watch 318willrun on ignition timing, it’s really the best way and he explains it well.
@@wht240sxka thanks for the info! I really appreciate the feedback, I certainly need it. Now that I have the drag radials hopefully it will help it hook up better. Yes, it definitely falls on its face, I cannot seem to get my eye don’t mixture screws to really do anything. it is been this way since I upgraded to my Holley blue electric fuel pump. I have my fuel pressure set at five. I will definitely check out the ignition video on 318 will run.👍👍 if you’re ever in Denver, or near Denver, let me know. Maybe I’ll see you at Bandimere or at Julesburg this year? Going to try to make Julesburg on the weekend of July 18 for the hot rod revival. If I can run a 13.99 it will be literally a 33 year goal of mine.
Wow, so close to my set up. My Duster has comp cams full roller cam set up (I'm not sure of the specs) and a Mopar M1 Highrise intake. I'm surprised you can fit such a tall air filter element with a stock hood. When my engine was on the dyno when it was fresh built pulled 425 horse and somewhere in the 500 footpounds. I would think you're in that ballpark as well 👍
Nice! I kind of figured 400-425. About the air cleaner, it is like an inch and a half drop base and the lid still just touches the hood when closed.
It probably makes around 415 at crank recently dynoed one basically the same. It made 418.6 torque at 4800 rpm and 417.6 HP at 6200 rpm
Thanks for the info. That’s about what I would have guessed, around 400
How is the starter access? Can you use a stock type starter? I still have low hanging cheap dynomax ceramic headers. However, I can use a stock chrysler starter. Just need to remove pitman arm to do so.
You can use the stock size starter. But I have a mini starter on mine.
@@Duster_Garage good. I wondered about that since I have considered the tti headers.
Cool. I have a '71 with a 414 stroker. I think I can pull a 11 sec. quarter too. I've got 3.55 rear gears though.
Nice! You should hit 11s. I had 3.55s and a low gear set in the trans at first. I was able to go 11.94 with those gears.
@@Duster_GarageAwesome! I'm running a 833 4 speed. Recently purchased a Tremec TKX though.
What is the front and rear tire Size? Sounds killer
Thanks! Front are 26x7.5x15. Rear are 275/60r15.
@@Duster_Garage thank you! We are buying one soon, keep the videos coming
@@flexmarchettiwill do
Nice work I wish I was able to find a 340 duster that was in the low 20k range that was a good driver. It is very hard to do
Heard that. Both of my cars are original 6 cylinder cars. Buy a cheap one and build it the way you want it.
I’m in my shop watching this and I’m thinking your mic might need turning up or it’s my shop stereo? Thanks for sharing, my 71 Demon should be up and running in two months, 418 stroker
You’re not wrong. My audio is a little low. I actually don’t have a mic, need to get one. You’re Demon is going to be a ripper with that 418.
@@Duster_Garage for the money in parts I hope so lol
Nice car for sure what does it weigh?
Thank you. It’s just over 3000 pounds.
Running the same set up on my small block 340 just with a flat tappet cam and trick flow heads swinging a 4in crank shaft .. 391 gears 904 trans outback really curious to see what it's going to run
Nice! Should run low 11s if not high 10s once you get it dialed in.
Is that a 360 Magnum with LA heads?
It’s a 1973 LA block with LA 360 J heads.
@@Duster_Garage awesome machine!
@@jts9120 thanks
What size tires/backspace on the rear?
15x8, 4.5” backspacing. 275/60r15 MT et street ss tire.
Thanks
Hi. Love the channel. Thank you. I have a stock Duster340 that runs like crap (thinking it’s carburetor.. has original thermoquad). But once I do get it squared away in the spring I was wondering what are the things you would do that are the most effective and cheapest way to get it into the mid 13s ? Thanks.
Thank you for saying so. If the engine is mechanical sound (good compression and oil pressure). I would think all you need is a good set of headers (TTI or Doug’s), Edelbrock performer rpm intake and a Holley 750 carb. Also, make sure all your ignition components are good and total timing is set to 35-36 degrees.
Dude awesome job man… nothin like a builder… I’m actually planning to restore my 70 charger rt… I’m just collecting parts before I do the body cause I think that’s the right way of doin it… I need help with the parts though dude… and restoration but shits expensive out there… so far I got a ray Barton 540 hemi for it making 760 hp and a tkx manual 5 gear trans… next is the strange Dana but gearing and wheels and transmission are all connected and I’m not sure about numbers… after that probably a hotchkis suspension….
Sounds like it should be a badass ride when it’s finished.
@@Duster_Garage yeah dude it’s a dream but it ain’t easy… I ain’t a mechanic just a mopar driver lol but good job to ur ride dude very cool ride. 11s is no joke
@@c.wdervin5987 thanks man! I appreciate it
425-440 HP ? Strange... never Dyno'd any of those 'back in the day' built sure built lots similar with the KB108's/2.02 J Heads worked a bit/Isky Hyd w/Solids... all I remember is figured somewhere's ~425 HP ?
That’s kinda what I was thinking, around 425.
My first thought was 400 HP.
@@robertjohnson4401 That’s probably a safe bet.
Let's do some content together get this stuff going
Right on man
Love your car I'm building a 74 with a mild 5.9 magnum and 727.i love the wheel and tire combo and want the same for mine.what is your size and backspacing on front and rear.thank you
Thanks man. Fronts are M/T sportsman tires 26x7.5x15 on 15x4” wheels, 1.75 backspacing. Rears are M/T et streets 275/60r15 tires. Wheels are 15x8, 4.5” backspacing.
@@Duster_Garage thank you for the info
@@masonsnook1583 No problem
Nice car! I love simple set=ups that run good! I am guessing its a little north of 400 HP
Thanks man. I think your horsepower guess is on the money.
man, you must of hit some luck on this build. I have seen cars run slower with more done. 11's is a hard number to catch with a heavy small block car.
Thanks, I think she does pretty good. I also think there is still a little room for improvement too. I’m looking to go 11.50s with this current combo.
What make and size tires are you running? That's a pretty impressive 60 foot time
At the drag strip I run Mickey Thompson E.T. Drags 26x10x15. Set to 18 psi.
Beautiful car, I love the build!
I do have a question. Right after you were talking about the TTI headers you walked around the drivers side and I noticed a universal joint setup between your column and steering box. I’m curious if you had a power steering box (or still do) . I know that the manual steering cars have a longer column to accommodate the shorter box and if you swapped out the box and left a power steering column.
I purchased an extension to go from the original power steering column to a manual box in my Dart - but if there are other options - I may consider doing a different setup.
I have TTI headers and they work only with manual steering so I greatly appreciate your input. Thanks for the great video 😉👍
Yes, you are correct. This was a power steering car. I installed a flaming river manual box with their power to manual conversion kit. The prices for that stuff really went up since 2007 when I bought my parts. Thanks for watching, hope this helps.
@@Duster_Garage
Thanks for the speedy reply.
When I get to work on my ride I’ll see how it all goes together. Prices on everything have gone up substantially. I picked up a pair of the Eddy 61729 heads. I bought them in 2019 @ $1,600 each and I see them listed at $2,040 - and not in stock. I’m glad I got them when I did.
Time for me to subscribe
😉👍
@@FreakOlds If I were to do the manual steering conversion again, I would get a used factory manual box and I think Mancini makes a more inexpensive adapter shaft.
Sorry I've watched all your videos so I'm kind of picking your brain on each video love the sound of your car you said that you're running a 3 inch exhaust system with Summit mufflers are they kind of a muffler that is similar to a Flowmaster and just out of curiosity what is the do you know what the part number is for those mufflers sounds great
No problem. They are 3 inch Summit brand Flowmaster 2 chamber knock offs. PN # is SUM-638230.
What is your 60ft times ? I have a similar set up but with a magnum 360
1.56 is my best 60’
Nice Ride and Great brake down 👍 how is rearend frame or spring set up ? Any re location for springs inboard ? Or do the Super Stocks keep tires off the quarters ...
Thank you. The frame rails are stock and the springs are in the stock location. The rear end is an A-body housing so it is kinda narrow. And the wheels have 4.5” of backspacing so the tires are close to the springs.
What spark plugs and gap you running?
Right now I have Autolite 3924 gapped at .040
I ran the 3924s the 8 runs of my first TnT. Then, the first 2 runs of 8 runs for the second TnT. I swapped them out for a colder set of NGK 7s and immediately picked up 1 tenth. I ran them on my 3rd TnT and am currently running them now. I have some NGK FR5 I want to try too. They're closer to the 3924's heat range.
@@greazedlightninggarage6768 Nice, do you know the part number of the NGK 7s ? I would like to try the same on mine.
@Duster Garage NGK V-Power R5671A-7. I'm not sure, but I heard the non-protuding electrode on these helps promote a more effective flame front. I don't know how true that is, but I can confirm I gained a tenth with that being the only change. Can't hurt to try them out.
@@greazedlightninggarage6768 Makes sense. I would if the same holds true with the old open chamber heads like I have.
Beautiful car! You running 284 hemi grind? Did you change to adjustable rocker arms ? what gap are you running on the valves? Intake centerline straight up or advanced? Thank you
Thank you! Yes, the cam is a MP 284. I do have adjustable roller rockers with Lunati solid lifters. I set valve lash to .014" on the intake and exhaust. The cam is installed dot to dot, i didn't degree it.
After watching this about 10 times like it was the first time, I was wondering what your wheel and tire setups are. I.E. wheel and tire sizes. Also, what are your RPM shift points? I noticed you run swapped the steelies out for the Jegs stars, did that pick up any ET?
The fronts are 15x4 and the tires are 26x7.5x15 mt sportsman. On the street I usually run the 15x8 jegs wheels(4.5” backspacing) with 275/60r15 ET streets. At the track I usually run the 15x8 steelies(4” backspacing) with MT et drag slicks 26x10x15. I shift at 6500 rpm and go thru the traps at 6300 with the slicks. The et streets are 28” tall so trap rpm is 6100. It slows down a little with the drag radials because of them being taller. I should some time put the slicks on the aluminum wheels and see if it picks up any.
@Duster Garage Excellent information! I have a 727 vs. a 904 and picked up 28" ET Street Rs. Now I'm wondering if I should go with a 4.30 gear or the 4.10s I have. I will definitely try both 26" and 28" inches soon as the track opens. Thanks bruh!
@@greazedlightninggarage6768 Anytime buddy! I can’t wait to see it on down the strip, or at least make some hard street pulls!
What size and brand tires in the rear? I have a 72 Duster.
On the street I run Mickey Thompson ET street ss drag radials. 275/60r15.
At the track I run Mickey Thompson ET Drag slicks. 26x10x15.
@@Duster_Garage 275/60 on the street nice! How wide is the rim? I have ss springs on a newly rebuilt stock 8 3/4. Offset on them rims?
@@CashMopar The wheels are 15x8 with 4.5” of backspacing. Tires are kinda close to the leaf springs because I have an A-body 8 3/4 rear. If you have a B-body rear in your Duster you would have plenty of room.
@@Duster_Garage ordering rims next Month. I might go with the 4 inch backspace. The tire can go out as far as it wants with these springs. Thank you so much for the info! Check out my Duster videos! Take care.
@@CashMopar No problem. Already did, love the plum crazy. Have a great weekend.
About 417 horsepower at around 6700 RPMs, torque is about 345 lb ft, flow is about 670 CFM at peak power / at the weather conditions when you went 11.72. I based my calculations on a race weight of 3400 pounds. A good set of solids was the way to go.
Very to the point. I like it.
I'd say that the engine is probably making 425-440hp, and between 430 and 440Tq at the flywheel. Those 360's with good compression are torque making small blocks. If you had a higher flowing heads like the Magnums with light bowl blending, and blending the valve guides, I can see you getting up to 460hp at the flywheel and 470TQ. Still that car is no doubt a solid build!👍
Nice. Pretty impressive for what looks like a mild street car. I subbed. Got a question on the fans. Any idea what CFM they pull? Do you have a part number? And is the radiator a 26”? Thanks.
Thanks man! The fan setup is a flex-a-lite 420 low profile. Summit racing p/n is
FLX-105422. They pull 2500 cfm. And the radiator is a 26”, 3 core.
@@Duster_Garage Thanks man.
@@JonnyMopar No problem
Very impressive budget build here's my question you said that you're running a Mopar performance probably a purple shaft cam 484 lift my question is this it's a hydraulic so you said you're running solid lifters my question is you just drop a set of solid lifters and off you go or is there other necessities that need to be done I have a racer Brown camshaft that's 292 duration 510 lift I'm curious if I can do the same thing with this camshaft I also have a mildly built 360 any information would be helpful love the video
Yes, it is a hydraulic cam. Over the years I had two sets of hydraulic lifters go bad. I had read you can run solids on a hydraulic cam. So I installed a set of Comp solid lifters and broke them in like you would with a new cam. I had adjustable rockers already and set hot lash to .014. I hope this helps.
I forgot, you will need slightly longer push rods.
Thank you very much for the quick response and again keep up the great videos they're very knowledgeable have a great day my friend
Hey do you have a Facebook page I'll send you a picture of my 73 Dodge Dart sport mildly built which runs 12:30
@@kengruginski6889 I actually don’t have a Facebook page. I forgot one other thing, if you have dual valve springs, remove the inner springs for break-in.
Nice ride. You’re doing really well with that budget build. How high do you rev the motor at the drag strip?
Thanks, I shift at 6500 rpm and go thru the traps at 6400.
Do you ever have trouble with gas boil? I did not see a return line so was curious if that airgap you run maybe keeps the carb cool enough to avoid gas boil after you shut off a hot engine. Nice car👊
Thank you. No, I have never had an issue with gas boil or vapor lock. The carb actually stays fairly cool, i guess because of the air gap and it has no heat cross over in it. I also have insulation on the fuel line.
Do you ever drive the car on the street? How do you feel about the spool on the street with 4.10s?
I do mostly street driving with the car. I got a video coming out on Friday, driving the car, making some pulls and doing burn outs.
@@Duster_Garage sweet! It’s scary how similar our cars are. Only difference is the compression ratio. Any how, I am considering spoiling the rear end but was worried it would twist axles shafts being a 30 spline.
Nice! I just watched your video. Do you have stock axles?
Thanks! I’m thinking of making another video showing more of the car. Yes they are stock axles shafts
@@bradytallred Hell yeah, you should. I might be a little worried about the splines twisting on the stock axles.
It needs a dyno run
I would like to eventually dyno it. My buddy’s Duster was running almost the same time and made 320 hp at the wheels.
73 Duster, 3680 lbs, 380hp MP Crate motor upgraded to worked over aluminum heads, 3800 stall, 370 gears. Only runs 9s in the 1/8 or 14's in the quarter. Never ever 1/10 second faster.
That’s really heavy for a Duster but should still run 12s. Something has to be going on. Make sure your distributor is advancing timing. Should be about 35 degrees by no later than 3000 rpm. If you have a vacuum secondary Holley, make sure the secondaries are actually opening. Either one will kill a lot of horsepower. Last time at the track I was parked next to a guy who had a Duster with the 380 hp crate engine. TTI headers, 3500 stall 727, 3.91 gears. Running 12.12s all day.
All i can say, is something is WRONG with the timing, set up, fuel (carb) , tranny, SOMETHING, combo aint workin rite......shud be ALOT faster/quicker.......dig into it, do some research, and wish you well!!
nice car bro, I love that sharktooth
Thank you very much
Beautiful Duster, crappy audio.
Thank you. If I could ask, did you watch on your phone, computer or tv? Wondering about the audio.
Hurray! someone who does not have the 2 "cheats" in place to run fast....a fkn stroker kit and $7K heads......folk have that cheater crap on and run 10s and think its fast,.🤣.... I have had a similar sort of build here in the UK for 35years , '68 Roadrunner, all steel, 3.23 gears, 383, 906 stock valve heads, 484 hyd cam and it runs 12.80s.......with 3.23 gear and a 1.94-2.00 60fts !
Hardly anyone can do that today, straight on the phone for a "cheater kit" and then gloat when they go the same speed LOL,, its the same over here now in the UK, everyone has the "cheats" in. great build right there mate
Thank you. That’s how I like my cars. As fast as I can with nearly stock components AND on a budget.
Very nice job on that Duster. It runs really well.
My brother had a Dart with a pump gas 340, with W2 heads and solid lifters back in the 80s. SS springs, 4.30 gear, 9" converter, 3400# with driver. Ran mid 10s with bests in the 10.30s in good air. Nobody but us knew what it ran. He waxed so many big block cars on the street with that combination it was hysterical. They couldn't understand how it was possible to be gaped by a little 340. lol