Great channel and advise, as per usual. #3 about the floor. If you have the room, then save a few planks/ a package of flooring, for later repairs. Just in case. The floor may be unavailable later on. This appliese to tiles and paint and so on, as well. Oh, also, make sure to use boards from a few different packages when laying the floor. Don't use one package of planks and then move on to the next. This will spread any variations randomly ocross the whole floor so you don't get different patches of the same shade floor.
Electric showers do have limits but we put one in as a back up in case we lost the boiler. Also, tank fed showers do run out of water quickly if you like long showers. We have a 12kw shower and it’s pretty good all year round 👍
Great start to this upload mate!! Zero need for ladish rubbish on a great site like this. Well said. Ditch those idiots. I absolutely love your stuff. End of story. You give,what seems to me to be a proper, genuine real builders review on tools and building products. I would genuinely take your advice on issues and tools/products. Cheers for your stuff. David
Eugene Eugene This is exactly what I say in my video on rendering mix and many plasterers dismiss it. I doubt there are many brickies who change the mix between internal and external skins especially when it comes out of silos.
You are right mate. If the mortar is too strong it can crack the brickwork or blockwork. In facework it should be sacrificial, better to replace the mortar than the bricks in time.
Not sure if anyone added any info re cracks in external brickwork, but as a bricky we determine source of faults by following the crack to its end point, then you draw an imaginary line through 90 degrees downwards, this will then identify the problem , usually you will find they point at lintels or drainage areas etc, and as for the brick cracking, the mortar is far too strong, bricks are supposed to slide over the mortar joint, great channel, like these problem videos.
Hey Rodger ,good watch as always. Have you seen Rob Songers twisted arch vid. If you like quality brickwork, well this is mesmerising. Anyway thanks to all at skill builder.
You mentioned you like excellent brickwork. I'll be honest, I haven't seen this myself, a buider I did a lot of wiring for years ago said to me that some of the most impressive brickwork he had seen was in Londons sewers.
Whoever did the pipework for that boiler had one eye going in the shop and the other coming out with the change. Well done to the bricky at the end by the way, fantastic job and thankyou skill builder you really do help me alot, you can just be one trade these days you need to have a few strings to your bow to make it work and the info you put out is great. Cheers👍
Good spot on the positioning of the shower. Do Aqualisa not recommend using a flange over teeing into the hot draw off before it tees off for the open vent?
Everyone recommends a flange but a lot of the time you can tee into the horizontal hot pipe provided the pipe goes down first it usually stops it sucking air. A lot depends on how good the cold supply to the cylinder is.
If you've got a family or large house don't have an electric shower, teenagers spending 15 minutes under it can get really expensive. I've got a hot water tank, pump and a drizzle head. It's really cheap to heat a tank of water off the central heating and as good as a luxury hotel shower. Just wish I'd used the elements backing board and not the water resistant plasterboard but I did make sure it was really well sealed with upstand etc Another great video.
I always use a system tank, pressurised at mains pressure, no pump required, bit more expensive, latest ones are stainless steel and no longer require an anode, no pump to maintain, no noise, balanced system, used them for 20 years now, never had an issue. 22mm pipe to shower hot and cold gives a decent flow. Tanks with twin heating circuits are available for solar heating, not used that as was quoted £4500 to install the panels, in the summer my gas bill is @£20 per month, hot water only, see no reason for the panels
ralphsterz had that issue as well all the local plumbers to me either did not respond, or it was ‘you don’t want one of those’ had to go 80m to South Wales to find a company able and willing to install the system, they did both boiler and tank, from Viessmann. To me the other advantage is the system boiler is, in general, more reliable than a combi. Installed this one 10 months ago, previous one was 20 years old, was still working, changed as parts no longer available, and not that efficient. The company did a very good job.
If you want to cut silicone and separate things, try using the plastic strapping the are sometimes around appliance boxes...cuts the mastic and minimises the chance of damage
If you want to see some really good brickwork on your travels Roger or just to look on the Net then the old Templeton carpet factory in Glasgow is probably one of the best looking brick buildings in the country, now converted into some rather posh flats and business premises.
That is great. I must admit I didn't think about that. I will pass that information on. If that is the case it would be best to swap the pipes over behind the wall. I reckon he has a stud wall built off the gable end.
Haha. So as the thermostatic expands from heating up it pushes the valve even further to the hot side? That's fantastic. It's no wet room made out of plasterboard but it gave me a chuckle.
'Roger my legs have fallen off' Roger- 'What you want to do is get your mastic...' Bril channel, keep up the good work lads, really enjoy the vids. Cheers
Hi Roger. Re the shower pump in the loft. I have read a lot of material on the shower pump manufacturers websites that say that you can out a shower pump in the loft as long as the water tank is at least 600mm above the top of the pump. I'm talking about a traditional pump here. They also say that you cannot have them in the bathroom as they have to be at least 600mm away from a water source. I'm confused about the whole thing. The Victoria plum website says that you can have a shower pump in the loft inline with the bottom of the cold tank so lots of conflicting info. When you talked about the shower pump in this video you mentioned that it could go in the loft but the picture didn't look like a traditional shower pump. I couldn't find the link you said about. I'm only asking all this because I want to put a pump in the loft but my water tank is level on the joists and not raised on a platform. Will it still work ok or will the lack of gravity cause an issue in activating the pump when I turn on the shower. Would appreciate your advice.
Some shower heads work better with electric showers. We have both electric and combi fed. The electric came in handy when the boiler failed and we had to a. Get a competent engineer to diagnose the fault and then b. Wait for the parts
I have an issue with kitchen units. The laminate covering ona couple of the doors has become detached from the surface of the door. There's no split in the laminate, all the seams around the edges are intact. The cupboard sist abouve a lightly used drying rack and is not near to any heat source and does not come into contact with any water. So, if i touch the surface of the cupboard door, the laminate is clearly moving, a bit like touching the surface of a baloon. I have no real idea how to repair it, my thought train is to get a syringe and needle and try to insert some glue into it that way. Any ideas? The colour of the unit is a magnolia
I have just discovered this site and I love it! I am going to have a go at descaling the thermostatic valve on my bath/shower mixer, which I hardly ever use, so I'm sure that is the problem- THANKS! And I am also a big fan of nice brickwork!
I'd like to thank you for a very informative channel. You seem to cover a lot of ground with the variety of videos you do. I find your videos very informative with easy to follow information. Just 1 question, with the time you put into your videos, how do find time to go out and work 😁
hi roger .......I want to use elements board in my bathroom.......2 questions come to mind ...... I live in Essex so are there any outlets in my area that sell elements or do I have to order it from abacus.......secondly when you join the board together is it a good idea to put KST adhesive on the edges to get extra sealing many thanks graham simmons
Hi Graham Plumb City in Colchester are good but you can also order online from Rubbeduck Bathrooms. I would use a sealant on the edges but not the KST. I have used neutral curing silicone or MD adhesive on the edges in the past when I wanted the extra sealing but that was in and area where I didn't use the tape. It worked perectly. We are going to do some extreme tests with all makes of tilebacker board to see what you can and can't do.
Great series this, what are your views on websites like checkatrade? I have an issue with my roof and and a few differnt company’s do work but not fixed, when I call them back afterwards, one does not want to know and looks like the other has gone bust/changed details. When I have asked friends they can recommend any other tradesman bar a roofer. Part of the issue is I live in a mid terrace and I think the issue is with a neighbour so trying to fix it but want someone reliable and honest.
Pumps should be lower than outlet of cylinder. Come on Rodger lol. Hehehe. Sorry I didn't wanna sound like a c*ck but shower pumps should be ideally on floor of airing cupboard. Pumps in loft not good thanks for the video
You are right of course, ideally you keep them flooded to avoid cavitation but they do sell them for use in lofts and in my experience they do work provided the cylinder has a good cold feed 28mm is best..
@@SkillBuilder I hope i didn't come across like an "a" hole it was not my intention to come across a know it all. been to so many jobs where shower pumps have been fitted in loft and not working correctly. And also working fine so agree it does work. Very important to that cold supply from header tank is below the outlet from the header to the cylinder if using same header tank so hot runs out 1st. Again seen people taking cold supply from the drop to cylinder and it's basics like this that (could) be dangerous. I'm saying this more 4 the diyer not you buddy. Thanks again 4 sharing your content. Like your channel
@@mikeseymour4608 Hi Mike. Don't worry I didn't take it that way at all and I you are right I did neglect to talk about cavitation. The problem is that I am aware any of these topics can be extended into episodes in themselves. I tend to be a bit long-winded with the answers at the best of times. You can see by the jump cuts how much Dylan had to chop into my answers so I am very happy for the conversations to continue and shed more light on the topic. Never be afraid to chip in. If my ego is not able to withstand a little constructive criticism I should find something else to do.
Thanks RichardWe know that it won't suit everything and we are continuing our other content but we have to try new things. Some people find it useful and interesting. Stick with the channel there is stuff for you on its way.
Great channel and advise, as per usual.
#3 about the floor. If you have the room, then save a few planks/ a package of flooring, for later repairs. Just in case. The floor may be unavailable later on. This appliese to tiles and paint and so on, as well. Oh, also, make sure to use boards from a few different packages when laying the floor. Don't use one package of planks and then move on to the next. This will spread any variations randomly ocross the whole floor so you don't get different patches of the same shade floor.
Electric showers do have limits but we put one in as a back up in case we lost the boiler. Also, tank fed showers do run out of water quickly if you like long showers. We have a 12kw shower and it’s pretty good all year round 👍
Lovely brickwork by Mr Brydon.
Like the intro Roger wise words well said 👍👍👍
Great start to this upload mate!!
Zero need for ladish rubbish on a great site like this. Well said. Ditch those idiots.
I absolutely love your stuff. End of story. You give,what seems to me to be a proper, genuine real builders review on tools and building products.
I would genuinely take your advice on issues and tools/products.
Cheers for your stuff.
David
Brilliant show Rodger , love this keep it going, just found this one .
When you’ve got some much knowledge, you need 20 cuts to keep you on topic... Love it and your videos. Keep it up Roger!
That is funny
The basic rule of masonry - mortar should never be stronger then brick/block
Eugene Eugene This is exactly what I say in my video on rendering mix and many plasterers dismiss it. I doubt there are many brickies who change the mix between internal and external skins especially when it comes out of silos.
You are right mate. If the mortar is too strong it can crack the brickwork or blockwork. In facework it should be sacrificial, better to replace the mortar than the bricks in time.
Not sure if anyone added any info re cracks in external brickwork, but as a bricky we determine source of faults by following the crack to its end point, then you draw an imaginary line through 90 degrees downwards, this will then identify the problem , usually you will find they point at lintels or drainage areas etc, and as for the brick cracking, the mortar is far too strong, bricks are supposed to slide over the mortar joint, great channel, like these problem videos.
Hey Rodger ,good watch as always. Have you seen Rob Songers twisted arch vid. If you like quality brickwork, well this is mesmerising. Anyway thanks to all at skill builder.
You mentioned you like excellent brickwork. I'll be honest, I haven't seen this myself, a buider I did a lot of wiring for years ago said to me that some of the most impressive brickwork he had seen was in Londons sewers.
Whoever did the pipework for that boiler had one eye going in the shop and the other coming out with the change. Well done to the bricky at the end by the way, fantastic job and thankyou skill builder you really do help me alot, you can just be one trade these days you need to have a few strings to your bow to make it work and the info you put out is great.
Cheers👍
Brilliant advice thanks for posting and adding a bit of humour 👍👍👍
Good spot on the positioning of the shower. Do Aqualisa not recommend using a flange over teeing into the hot draw off before it tees off for the open vent?
Everyone recommends a flange but a lot of the time you can tee into the horizontal hot pipe provided the pipe goes down first it usually stops it sucking air. A lot depends on how good the cold supply to the cylinder is.
If you've got a family or large house don't have an electric shower, teenagers spending 15 minutes under it can get really expensive.
I've got a hot water tank, pump and a drizzle head. It's really cheap to heat a tank of water off the central heating and as good as a luxury hotel shower. Just wish I'd used the elements backing board and not the water resistant plasterboard but I did make sure it was really well sealed with upstand etc
Another great video.
I always use a system tank, pressurised at mains pressure, no pump required, bit more expensive, latest ones are stainless steel and no longer require an anode, no pump to maintain, no noise, balanced system, used them for 20 years now, never had an issue. 22mm pipe to shower hot and cold gives a decent flow. Tanks with twin heating circuits are available for solar heating, not used that as was quoted £4500 to install the panels, in the summer my gas bill is @£20 per month, hot water only, see no reason for the panels
@@paulhill1665 that's what I wanted and wish I'd got now but my plumber didn't have the certification.
ralphsterz had that issue as well all the local plumbers to me either did not respond, or it was ‘you don’t want one of those’ had to go 80m to South Wales to find a company able and willing to install the system, they did both boiler and tank, from Viessmann. To me the other advantage is the system boiler is, in general, more reliable than a combi. Installed this one 10 months ago, previous one was 20 years old, was still working, changed as parts no longer available, and not that efficient. The company did a very good job.
Stored hot water is the way to go . Also good dump load if you have solar pv
great advice all round again....love the mastic/brick dust..attention to detail!
It was only temp to get job done had to get 2 done on machine both sides replaced now
If you want to cut silicone and separate things, try using the plastic strapping the are sometimes around appliance boxes...cuts the mastic and minimises the chance of damage
Dental floss works too
If you want to see some really good brickwork on your travels Roger or just to look on the Net then the old Templeton carpet factory in Glasgow is probably one of the best looking brick buildings in the country, now converted into some rather posh flats and business premises.
Really like these agony aunt kind of videos for building work!
The video with the steam room I believe the cold water it's on the hot water side and vice versa.
I've had this problem on one of my costumers
That is great. I must admit I didn't think about that. I will pass that information on. If that is the case it would be best to swap the pipes over behind the wall. I reckon he has a stud wall built off the gable end.
Haha. So as the thermostatic expands from heating up it pushes the valve even further to the hot side? That's fantastic. It's no wet room made out of plasterboard but it gave me a chuckle.
Great advice Roger
'Roger my legs have fallen off'
Roger- 'What you want to do is get your mastic...'
Bril channel, keep up the good work lads, really enjoy the vids. Cheers
I know he said no inappropriate comments but wow that man behind the laptop 😍
Hi Roger. Re the shower pump in the loft. I have read a lot of material on the shower pump manufacturers websites that say that you can out a shower pump in the loft as long as the water tank is at least 600mm above the top of the pump. I'm talking about a traditional pump here. They also say that you cannot have them in the bathroom as they have to be at least 600mm away from a water source. I'm confused about the whole thing. The Victoria plum website says that you can have a shower pump in the loft inline with the bottom of the cold tank so lots of conflicting info. When you talked about the shower pump in this video you mentioned that it could go in the loft but the picture didn't look like a traditional shower pump. I couldn't find the link you said about. I'm only asking all this because I want to put a pump in the loft but my water tank is level on the joists and not raised on a platform. Will it still work ok or will the lack of gravity cause an issue in activating the pump when I turn on the shower. Would appreciate your advice.
St Pancras brick work is impressive
Some shower heads work better with electric showers. We have both electric and combi fed. The electric came in handy when the boiler failed and we had to a. Get a competent engineer to diagnose the fault and then b. Wait for the parts
Assuming the tiler has left enough room to get the cartridges out 🤔 How many times does that happen 😭😭😭😭
Our tilers left ours tight, yet brother in-laws cover plate was barely covering the hole. Same bloody tilers. I had to cut ours back with fein saw
Go away and have a cup of tea whilst you wait ....good advice god I love being British
I have an issue with kitchen units. The laminate covering ona couple of the doors has become detached from the surface of the door. There's no split in the laminate, all the seams around the edges are intact. The cupboard sist abouve a lightly used drying rack and is not near to any heat source and does not come into contact with any water. So, if i touch the surface of the cupboard door, the laminate is clearly moving, a bit like touching the surface of a baloon. I have no real idea how to repair it, my thought train is to get a syringe and needle and try to insert some glue into it that way. Any ideas? The colour of the unit is a magnolia
I have just discovered this site and I love it! I am going to have a go at descaling the thermostatic valve on my bath/shower mixer, which I hardly ever use, so I'm sure that is the problem- THANKS!
And I am also a big fan of nice brickwork!
Good luck Jane and welcome to Skill Builder
I'd like to thank you for a very informative channel. You seem to cover a lot of ground with the variety of videos you do. I find your videos very informative with easy to follow information.
Just 1 question, with the time you put into your videos, how do find time to go out and work 😁
Think that boiler pipework makes a nice conversation piece don't you think?
Click lock flooring is so easy to put down. There is even a plastic version. Very cheap.
Roger what mix would you suggest
Hi, do you know of anyway to stop lime coming out of new brickwork? it looks like it's been whitewashed
Yes that mortar does look too 'strong'
another interesting and informative video Roger. Thanks. Really enjoying this channel.
hi roger .......I want to use elements board in my bathroom.......2 questions come to mind ...... I live in Essex so are there any outlets in my area that sell elements or do I have to order it from abacus.......secondly when you join the board together is it a good idea to put KST adhesive on the edges to get extra sealing many thanks graham simmons
Hi Graham
Plumb City in Colchester are good but you can also order online from Rubbeduck Bathrooms. I would use a sealant on the edges but not the KST. I have used neutral curing silicone or MD adhesive on the edges in the past when I wanted the extra sealing but that was in and area where I didn't use the tape. It worked perectly. We are going to do some extreme tests with all makes of tilebacker board to see what you can and can't do.
Great series this, what are your views on websites like checkatrade? I have an issue with my roof and and a few differnt company’s do work but not fixed, when I call them back afterwards, one does not want to know and looks like the other has gone bust/changed details. When I have asked friends they can recommend any other tradesman bar a roofer.
Part of the issue is I live in a mid terrace and I think the issue is with a neighbour so trying to fix it but want someone reliable and honest.
Had the same problem 4 over 40 years only I was any good
and he was in his 70s, pays to get an older roofer.
Have seen how it all works in Europe
It seems you are running behind a bit it’s not perfect but somethings seem better
nice
Guys who make comments like you forewarned against should be blocked too - disgraceful to be commenting on people on such an amazing channel.
❤
Well we are builders
You see some nice woman , you will definitely say something naughty
Cant help it
5:33
Pumps should be lower than outlet of cylinder. Come on Rodger lol. Hehehe. Sorry I didn't wanna sound like a c*ck but shower pumps should be ideally on floor of airing cupboard. Pumps in loft not good thanks for the video
You are right of course, ideally you keep them flooded to avoid cavitation but they do sell them for use in lofts and in my experience they do work provided the cylinder has a good cold feed 28mm is best..
@@SkillBuilder I hope i didn't come across like an "a" hole it was not my intention to come across a know it all. been to so many jobs where shower pumps have been fitted in loft and not working correctly. And also working fine so agree it does work. Very important to that cold supply from header tank is below the outlet from the header to the cylinder if using same header tank so hot runs out 1st. Again seen people taking cold supply from the drop to cylinder and it's basics like this that (could) be dangerous. I'm saying this more 4 the diyer not you buddy. Thanks again 4 sharing your content. Like your channel
@@mikeseymour4608 Hi Mike. Don't worry I didn't take it that way at all and I you are right I did neglect to talk about cavitation. The problem is that I am aware any of these topics can be extended into episodes in themselves. I tend to be a bit long-winded with the answers at the best of times. You can see by the jump cuts how much Dylan had to chop into my answers so I am very happy for the conversations to continue and shed more light on the topic. Never be afraid to chip in. If my ego is not able to withstand a little constructive criticism I should find something else to do.
I don’t like this format.. i like the reviews and on site building videos
Thanks RichardWe know that it won't suit everything and we are continuing our other content but we have to try new things. Some people find it useful and interesting. Stick with the channel there is stuff for you on its way.