Roger, you are a gent, thank you - I will full cover clad the outside walls (no lower than 6" above GL), you're spot on and I was trying too hard to keep cost / time down. I have approx 400mm distance between build and fence now so should be ok. Diamond mate
I did a similar single brick small building, which was extremely damp, probably due to condensation. I used insulated plasterboard fixed with PU foam and it has been a great home office for two years now. So, from my experience, this method works perfectly.
I built a shed/ workshop like the chap wanting to with the ply on the non visible section. 20 years later it's still fine but I treated it and clad it on a plastic sheet. I agree though with Rodger, bite the bullet now and clad the lot. Unless that is access is an issue. You will have to clad it on the floor and lift the section into place. The drain outlet just put a solvent weld fitting on it to extend it. I never use compression fittings where if they leak you cannot see it.
Hi Roger Love the channel. Been a subscriber for a few months now and have learned so much. Have a suggestion regarding the brick outbuilding - Try Lightweight cladding on the outside with battens and membrane and leave the bricks on the inside. Reverse brick veneer. Thermal mass on the inside may work to your advantage. Keep up the good work Cheers Darren
Sadly my karate are now just a fond memory and one not so fond. I had a bout with a guy who was into cage fighting and he broke my rib. I saw stars and crawled off the mat. It was not malicious just a miscalculation but it hurt like mad, not just then but when I tried to go rock climbing the next week and it popped out. Ouch!
Roger thanks for the advice, I have sent you some more photos and more details on my ever changing plan lol. if I render the outside and insulate the inside would this be ok?
I only found out a couple of years ago about the different actual sizes of the waste pipes of push fit and solvent even though they are called the same size . There was a few flying fucks I can tell you. Regards Don Codman
To stop Moisture on Ian's building. Just off the top of my head: Liquid applied membrane on the roof which is UV resistant with correct edge detailing, i.e forming a drip edge. Acid clean the brickwork and pressure wash, neutralise the acid on walls. Inject a damp proof membrane if it hasn't got one. Install some air bricks. Siloxane sealer to the brick walls to waterproof them. Inside if possible, install a floating chipboard floor on polystyrene on a damp proof membrane then build stud like roger said with vapour barrier and insulate in between then. If you want a ceiling you can frame one off the walls and insulate that as well. Run all your cables like normal for power points etc. Have a look at how people do garage conversions over there, this is pretty similar to that. 👍
In regard to Ian's insulation of the outbuilding, would it be beneficial to render the outside instead of doing the work on the inside? On another point, I'm not a plumber, plasterer, brick layer or anything else in the building trade. But I feel qualified to say Roger, that as I have the same affliction as you, you will see your laptop screen much better if you put your bloody glasses on!😂😂😂😂😂😂
Roger, you are a gent, thank you - I will full cover clad the outside walls (no lower than 6" above GL), you're spot on and I was trying too hard to keep cost / time down. I have approx 400mm distance between build and fence now so should be ok. Diamond mate
I did a similar single brick small building, which was extremely damp, probably due to condensation. I used insulated plasterboard fixed with PU foam and it has been a great home office for two years now. So, from my experience, this method works perfectly.
Good idea with the foam. I think it is a better bet with slightly damp walls
Great informative video. Thanks Roger
I built a shed/ workshop like the chap wanting to with the ply on the non visible section. 20 years later it's still fine but I treated it and clad it on a plastic sheet. I agree though with Rodger, bite the bullet now and clad the lot. Unless that is access is an issue. You will have to clad it on the floor and lift the section into place.
The drain outlet just put a solvent weld fitting on it to extend it. I never use compression fittings where if they leak you cannot see it.
A solvent weld fitting won't go on it. I asked him to check that. It must be polypropylene which doesn't solvent weld.
Thanks for that tip for softening up silicone caulk! I used it the next day. Felt like a boss.
frank1847 use wd40 to soften it up. Worked like a charm.
Cheers for that Rodger another enjoyable segment 👍
Hi Roger
Love the channel. Been a subscriber for a few months now and have learned so much.
Have a suggestion regarding the brick outbuilding - Try Lightweight cladding on the outside with battens and membrane and leave the bricks on the inside. Reverse brick veneer. Thermal mass on the inside may work to your advantage.
Keep up the good work
Cheers Darren
Another excellent video. 🇬🇧
Once you’ve seen Roger’s Karate book, you can’t unsee it! You’ll pick it up on every video! 😆
Sadly my karate are now just a fond memory and one not so fond. I had a bout with a guy who was into cage fighting and he broke my rib. I saw stars and crawled off the mat. It was not malicious just a miscalculation but it hurt like mad, not just then but when I tried to go rock climbing the next week and it popped out. Ouch!
Roger thanks for the advice, I have sent you some more photos and more details on my ever changing plan lol. if I render the outside and insulate the inside would this be ok?
Hey can you do a video on safety trainers/boots thanks.
I only found out a couple of years ago about the different actual sizes of the waste pipes of push fit and solvent even though they are called the same size . There was a few flying fucks I can tell you. Regards Don Codman
Hi Was wondering if you have any idea how I can retrofit insulation in the sloping area of a dormer bungalow?
D L there’s an email at end of video for you to send your question in to.
To stop Moisture on Ian's building. Just off the top of my head: Liquid applied membrane on the roof which is UV resistant with correct edge detailing, i.e forming a drip edge. Acid clean the brickwork and pressure wash, neutralise the acid on walls. Inject a damp proof membrane if it hasn't got one. Install some air bricks. Siloxane sealer to the brick walls to waterproof them. Inside if possible, install a floating chipboard floor on polystyrene on a damp proof membrane then build stud like roger said with vapour barrier and insulate in between then. If you want a ceiling you can frame one off the walls and insulate that as well. Run all your cables like normal for power points etc. Have a look at how people do garage conversions over there, this is pretty similar to that. 👍
In regard to Ian's insulation of the outbuilding, would it be beneficial to render the outside instead of doing the work on the inside?
On another point, I'm not a plumber, plasterer, brick layer or anything else in the building trade. But I feel qualified to say Roger, that as I have the same affliction as you, you will see your laptop screen much better if you put your bloody glasses on!😂😂😂😂😂😂
You are right, it is pure vanity. It just makes me look 90
Oooooh …. Roger ! kisses xxxxxxxx
#Mcalpinealldaylong
First again comrades
Your achievement is great!