Why is There a Nasty Smell? ASB #7
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
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This is the Kieren Messenger episode. He sneaks two questions into this edition of ASB and sends some lovely video clips showing his huge problem in the extension of the Messenger household.
Ali P has a huge amount of questions on doing a full renovation in his house.
Leo Carswell has a neglected 1950s semi' with dodgy DIY and many things that haven't been touched for years.
James Eyre is doing some refurbishment on my 1920s house with freezing solid brick walls and would like to introduce some insulation internally to the walls.
#AskSkillBuilder #HomeImprovement #DIY
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Some great questions from the viewers! Good work SB!
Good advice,jaysis I feel sorry for Kieran,but as Roger said it can be fixed
In regards to Alli's soudproofing 9:24 Just keep in mind sound travels in two ways, airbourne and structurally bourne sound. Both are equally important and just making a dense sound barrier wont stop structurally transmitted sound, it has to be isolated too.
Nobody wants the job because the money went in the extension, dodgy builder's, I hope the people who did it can't sleep at night.
All that expanding foam was probably put in because of the smells from the gully
That cupboard is plumbing hell
Ffs that plumbing was a mess, I seen some things like that in my younger days when I was sparking. I always wondered how any sane person could accept it especially with all that mould, because the spores are drifting through the air they breath, can cause all sorts of respiratory problems.
Don’t use chip board use hardie floor ! It’s tongue and grove tight af and less contraction and swelling then wood plus you can tile straight on it 👌
What about elements board? 🤣
Blimey!! ... Poor old Kieran ..... What a MESS!!? .... No wonder the builders have been hot-footin' it after seeing that lot. I reckon you'd need a whole RAFT of get-out clauses before you tried to put THAT Cowboy's work right even if you doubled-up on the quote in the first place :-(
And what happened with 'Building Control'? were they even consulted if that was an extention? (Which it looks like).
Re. Qu.1: If main house is also suspended floor, make sure concreting extension floor won't obstruct any existing sub floor air vents (air bricks). If it will you can run ducts through new floor slab out to air brick on extension wall to maintain air flow.
Martin
Good advice. That is essential but often overlooked.
I'd love to get there and sort that out it's bloody terrible. Heart breaking to see such shoddy work.
The damp I would agree with roger, I'd also wonder if you have sufficient airbricks. I wonder how that job passed building control.
My personal choice for the internal insulation would have been polythene sheet between the stud and the brick allowing an air gap, Lot of work but stops damp and eventual salt and build up plus mould
An educated guess would say there is probably a corpse under that wretched floor!
CSI needed .
Wow. Lucky rats havnt found the way in. .
Informative and interesting. Great work!
Thank for your advice Roger I should have mentioned I’d used the foil backed plasterboard and put the batons over the full sheets of insulation so they don’t touch the actual wall, wasn’t sure if it was overkill so didn’t use it in another room but definitely will for the others with your advice. Has made a big difference to that room. Was also wondering if it’s worth insulating under the suspended wooden floor? Maybe with loft type insulation.
I've insulated under a suspended wooden floor, it was the worst job in the world.
I had to crawl under the floor in about a 2 ft gap, push the insulation into the joists and then cover with membrane to stop it falling down.
Never again unless I used spray foam or could easily take up the flooring.
I rent out the property now and one day I'd love to fill in all the voids and have underfloor heating. Pure luxury.
@@ralphsterz2889 I've done that too. Agreed. Definitely worst job to do ever.
Rigid board insulation sitting on timber battens fixed to side of joists to stop it dropping through
James, I really wana insulate the solid walls of my house, I watched a few videos and read up a lot online and the possibility of interstitial condensation has really put me off so i am more than willing to go overkill. Would really like to get a bit more detail from you re what you did. Can you confirm exactly your set up from the wall, including thicknesses of each layer. Did you insulate the wall under the floorboards too?
Jackzuk hi I first put full sheets of 50mm rigid insulation against the walls then fixed them with 25x50 roof tile batons as they are pressure treated and cheap. I also used foil tape to cover the joint between pir boards. Then used 12.5mm foil backed plasterboard onto the batons which leaves a 25mm gap between the back of the plasterboard and the insulation. I used this gap to run ring main etc. Also put loads of additional wood when I planned to hang a tv for support. If possible seal any gap round when walls meet with foam filler if room. Have thought about running a full silicon bead round the insulation perimeter before fixing to the wall to again stop any moist air reaching the wall behind but haven’t done that yet. Room is so much warmer now and I plan to do all external wall in the house.
My preferred way to spec insulated dry lining is to fix 50x25mm treated softwood battens to the wall with a DPC behind the battens and then use a composite board which incorporates a moisture control layer such as Kingspan K18. 92.5mm board works for most scenarios. This incorporates 12.5mm PB so the insulation would be 80mm. www.kingspan.com/irl/en-ie/product-groups/insulation-boards/kooltherm/kooltherm-k18-insulated-plasterboard. The DPC need only be used if there's a risk of moisture coming through the existing wall.
Right looking mess , but good job for a small builder you'll want to take it on day rate wouldn't touch it on price , wouldn't know what's under the timber floor 😳 🇮🇪🍀👍👋
Hi folks. I’m the unlucky one with the drainage issue. Thanks for answering Roger, at least we know it’s fixable! Would you suggest a wet or dry underfloor system?
Few things from the comments: 1) Survey didn’t pick it up. We didn’t notice for 2 years as it was sealed up tight! 2) The previous owner was a builder, so suspect he self-built on the side and sadly cut some corners. 3) Current plans are to move the drain outside, move the boiler to the far wall, underfloor heating and probably rip out the kitchen all at the same time. 4) We’re in Sutton if anyone wants the job!
Cheers!
Sorry to hear about that. Not sure what kind of a builder the previous owner was, but that is one horrendous bodge. I've never seen anything like it. I would be going round the entire house with a fine cone. I would suspect everything the PO has touched to need redoing.
I was wondering where does your present kitchen sink drain to. Is it going to that gully?
Phill Seddon yeah, the sink, dishwasher and washing machine all drain into the gulley. There’s only so much bleach I can use to stop the smell of food waste 🤦♂️
Oh crap. Wasn't sure if that had been checked, Roger mentioned about boiler condenser overflow, but thought I wonder if he left open for other services.
Best of luck with sorting it out.
Hi Kieran
Always go for the wet system. The electric system is really for tile warm up not for heating the room.
Electric on a room like that costs fortune to run.
A bloke down the road had it, against my advice, and after one season he turned it off when he saw the bill. He has gone back to radiators.
The wet systems are cheap to run and work really well.
Question: why does my top radiator in the bathroom stop getting hot? I balance, it's good awhile then stops again. Done all the basics
Bilding an extension abive drains requires approval. It is likely the extension will not have been given council building approval. Since 2013 the law changed and sellers became liable for non disclosure of known issues. It may be possible to sue the previous owners for non disclosure.
Yes, more very good info once again,just love all these helpful hints thats again Rodger.
Foil backed plasterboard is a good vapour barrier as long as the joints are vapour sealed to, but people often overlook the trouble effects it had on FM radio, with and bluetooth performance in modern houses. I'd you are in a room that uses it all round and has low-e glass you're effectively inside a tin can!
Also I noticed our local building regs say it should not be used on ceilings but none if the local builders seem to respect that, and they use it throughout.
I like your channel. Keep up the good work and don‘t mind the haters. Greetings from Germany.
With the sound reduction material - there needs to be consideration to the electric cables and future maintenance. Good to fill the gaps - but must not compromise the heat dissipation of the electrical wiring. Always an issue of unintended consequences. Fix one problem - create another.
Very interesting the dew point,, so really it's probably always best to use a vinyl paint if you are unsure of what is behind your walls, plus it's easier to clean.
So in the case of the vapour barrier what about vapour barrier over the current plaster board then 12.5 mm moisture board ? On top
Every problem with a house or dwelling can be remidid, it's just a matter of cost and convenience.
Hi can Anyone on here give me some advice I have just fitter insulated plasterboard in my hallwall but the joint are not flush maybe 1-2mm clip on them is this going to cause problems when it gets plastered presume it’s prob down to the insulation squashing
It is due to just not getting them flush when you put them on the adhesive. I always use a big aluminium beam and lay it across the boards.
If you are talking of a lip of anything up to 4mm the plasterer can straighten that out so don't worrry. Not everything goes well first time.
found this video very useful and informative
Just sent you a message on Instagram, Skill Builder team!
We paid for a full survey and they listed the windows as “good”. They are 10 yr old wooden frame doubled glazed. 70% leak, window sills are rotting and the external window trims and battens disintegrate when touched (they are visibly rotten). We complained and they came back 2 months later and said it wasn’t raining when they did the survey and as 2 months had passed it could have rotted since 🤦🏻♂️. They then wrote to us to say that was their final decision and they consider the complain closed. It cost us £4000 in repairs!
That is outrageous
Should write to their governing body and ask if that's acceptable practice.
2 months ago my cousin purchase a house at £1.1m. Full survey passed. Just found significant live woodworm through walls and roof structures.
Re vapour barrier when insulating a solid wall, I was looking into foil back plasterboard but wouldn’t the vapour pass through joins of the plasterboard and then pass through the inevitable gaps between the foil insulation and the battens. This is something is really wana do but worry about the interstitial condensation. What would you say is the best set up of layers.
Is there harm in doing all the suggestions, ie use foil backed insulation, then battens to create the small voild, then vapour barrier and then foil backed plasterboard. Also would it matter if the let the vapour barrier sit slightly loose between some battens so allow cable to run up from under the floor between the plasterboard and vapour barrier.
The foil backed insulation will be fine, any joins or battens cover with aluminium backed tape to seal the gaps.
If you tape up all of your celotex joins, the continuous aluminium later there acts as your moisture barrier, and and even without the tape I'd suggest it would be as effective as foil backed plasterboard (as you can't tape the foil joins on the back). Not quite sure why that wasn't mentioned in the video.
The screw holes going through holding the battens can be a way for moisture to get through but I'd still consider it better than the gaps between foil backed insulation.
With larger battens you could attach to the ceiling and floor and not penetrate the insulation at all - this would also provide an acoustic improvement, especially if you use compliant mounting hardware.
OMG !
In my under stairs toilet I kept smelling the drains. I could find no leak at all around the toilet. So the only suspect was the trap on the sink, but since the loo gets used every day could not think how the trap would dry out so quickly.
Then one day I shut the door to the loo as I entered and heard a glug glug.
It's a sealed room so all that pressure pushed the water out of the trap. Don't tell the council ;) Still trying to figure out how to ventilate it, perhaps I need to write in for your advice on that...
consider it done. We will address it in a future issue. I think it was coincidence. Try doing it again a few time. A more likely cause is siphonic action on the trap caused by something else being run in the drain. Consider the possibility of a blocked drain. That is a common cause of the glug, glug, glug.
I'm so glad the block I live in uses active waste pumps to move the waste to the street system. I think the pump is internal in the walls between each flat
@@SkillBuilder The sink drain runs into the soil drain through a side stabbing, that then runs off to the outside. I considered it might be the flushing of the loo but a 4" pipe would not do that.
I will make a video and take photos of the ventilation problem and why I have not installed an fan already.
@@logik100.0 I have known plenty of 4 inch drains pull a basin trap. It does not have to fill the 4 inch pipe it just needs to create a pull of air. That is the purpose of the vent pipe.
@@logik100.0, depending on how accessible your waste pipe is, and the configuration of the rest of the waste system, you may be able to easily add an air admittance valve which should stop the drains pulling the basin trap.
If it is indeed the door however, it might be worth just taking a few mm off the bottom.
Watch that expanding foam it can attack the pvc on the electric cabling eating it due to the chemical mix in the foam
Hi Porkbap
Have you some evidence for this? We would like to see something that supports this claim because polyurethane foam is used all over the world as a seal around cables. You have to guard against over-heating but plasticiser migration is usually caused by polystyrene.
@@SkillBuilder yeah actually thinking about it was on about the foam insulation they used to use in wall cavities and roof spaces I was a spark for 20 years and have seen the polystyrene actually attack and eat the outer of the pvc the expanding foam is actually a different entity all together watched the video first thing in the morning at 7.00 BC (before coffee lol) your right guys should comment after coffee lmao good content by the way :)
Two or 3 weeks... what about a imediate solution with a lot of foam? Till its sealed and then start the works... 🤔🤔🤔