Building a Large Format 3D Printer - Part 5: Upgrades!
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- Part 5 of this massive printer build includes an enclosure, closed-loop motors, and electronics upgrades!
Files, Parts, and Info: www.drdflo.com/LF3DP.html
Large Format Printer Playlist: • Large Format 3D Printe...
D-Flo's Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/dr.d-flo
📷 Follow Dr. D-Flo on the Gram: / dr.dflo
Part 5 is packed with serious upgrades and creative 3D prints. The build volume is enclosed with plasma cut sheet metal, CNC milled components, and topped with a massive ABS hat - 3D printed of course! Inevitably there were some issues and expensive mishaps as Dr. D-Flo attempted to print with ABS pellets, a material notorious for warping. But active chamber heating, a new pellet vibrator upgrade, closed-loop stepper motors, and CAN expansion boards vastly increased the reliability of this printer.
Table of Contents:
00:00 - Introduction
01:56 - Battery Backup
02:32 - Motor Brakes
04:02 - Motor Encoders
05:72 - Installing Motors
06:31 - CAN Expansion Boards
11:59 - Closed-Loop Tuning
14:11 - GD Print 1
15:45 - Vibrator
20:22 - GD Print 2
24:23 - Enclosure
30:58 - Hat
#massive #additivemanufacturing #3dprinting 
Наука
Thank you everyone for your patience and support over the past 7 months. I wrote a blog post about my steps after graduating if you are curious about what I have been up to: www.drdflo.com/pages/Blog/Blog-post-23-1.html
I asked the injection molding press specialist at work about jamming, he says the easiest solution is to get "quenched" feed stock instead of cut pellets, they are like little bals or lentil shaped and they jam way less than cylinders. His second is solution would have been an agitator rod inside the hopper.
Our presses dont have any agitation in the feed hopper but we do have separate colorant hoppers that use a small (3/8" diameter) metering auger to control the flow.
@@paint4pain Excellent suggestions! When I am at bench with the vibrator, the pellets that I am using are underwater or quenched pelletized (round shape) and they still have a tendency to bridge. I believe this is a limitation of my small, by industrial standards, MDPH2 extruder. Its feed throat is too close to the diameter of the pellets. However, the abs pellets were strand cut (cylinders) and I had to have the vibrator running more often, so the geometry of the pellets definitely plays a role.
Try ASA. Same pros as ABS but less of the cons, especially the off-gassing.
Love your videos but I was just trying to set my (bell) notification and your Channel will not allow me because it's marked for kids??? I'm assuming you know this? I'm not sure if you have a setting on or RUclips just sets this for your channel automatically? I have probably 100+ subscriptions and yours seems to be the only one set like this. (we) I can't get any notifications if you post a new video..?
I think there is a strong market for any printer that can print body parts for classic cars. You need that rear panel? no problem here's one made of carbon fiber. You need a rare deck lid for a 69 Mangusta ? Here's a carbon fiber replacement.
happy this series hasnt ended
Heads up, when you crimp on your RJ-11(applies for RJ-45 as well) the cables jacket needs to be inside of the jack as well, such that when you crimp the connector, it actually pinches on to the cables jacket which then holds the wire in place, and acts as a strain relief. With how you currently crimped all of your RJ-11's there is no strain relief so if the cable gets snagged, it will damage your connections.
It won't fit. He's using cat5. In order to include the jacket in rj12 6p6c he would have to use silver satin
Edit spelling
You are so smrt.
@@bobbiac Really shouldn't have used RJ-11, RJ-45 is just plain better.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 The duet 3 expansions boards only have RJ12 6p6c connectors on them. If he attached 8p8c RJ45 connectors they wouldn't fit in the sockets he's trying to connect..
@@AJMansfield1 I meant the manufacturers, obviously he didn't have a choice...
Some large parts that are made on injection molding machines use a blend of PC & ABS together, around 5% Polycarbonate to 95% ABS. It gives the parts better dimensional stability. I wonder if that is something that would work help with your ABS issues. Awesome video though, keep up the good work.
This video beautifully showcased the difficulties in scaling up 3D printing technology. Extruding, bed heating and enclosure heating are so much more difficult at this size. Thanks for sharing real-world mistakes instead of hiding them and just showing successes. It made the video so much more enjoyable and relatable.
I agree with woodworker. Thanks for showing us both the upgrades and the pitfalls as it is encouraging to see your strategy for overcoming the obstacles. Great content here. I'd love to own one of these eventually but that price point eeesh. I'm sure it could pay for itself fairly quickly once the kinks are worked out.
just as a warning, benchys are extremely top-heavy, so if you try to float it it will instantly tip over. youll need to modify it if you want to make it rideable
Like increasing the fill % on the first layers?
Flat bottomed hull doesn't help either...
Just add weight in the bottom. Ill stop a benchie, add lead shot and resume print , then they float
By far the best series on youtube. Worth the 7 month wait.
Yeah, glad to see you back! 😊👍
Thanks! Glad to finally be back!
Imaging having 100k and doing a project like that big respect
This is an amazing series and I'm learning a ton from this project. You do a great job with not only your project updates but also with your demonstrations. This project is a huge undertaking and I appreciate that you share the problems you encountered and walk us through how you solve them. Not enough people are willing to share failure! Some people assume things have to be perfect or else it wasn't worth it and that's simply not the case. This project and this entire video series is absolutely worth it.
Congrats on the new job! You are an excellent teacher and brilliant engineer. I'm sure you'll do well in your new profession.
I loved watching pretty much every series you've ever done and have always learned something new. I especially love how you showcase the problems that you've encountered along the way. That's what real engineering is all about. Best of luck man.
Warping force is quiet something on such large printer. Fiber reinforced ABS is less prone to warping and it enables stiffer parts, probably a good option. PLA-ABS blend may be an alternative too, but lower temperature.
About the vibrator you've placed on a timer, you could have a simple light/motion sensor to sense when the pellet flow stops, and then trigger the vibration. You would need a small reservoir of pellets so that when the flow stops there are still pellets available for the print head. BTW have you thought of hosting this printer on Twitch? Just a thought, but the metal bed on which the glass sits might benefit from a temperature probe, thermal insulation, or its own heater. this way you can prepare the glass for that first layer of the print.
Hi, I have a lot of experience printing ABS.
You are going about the air filtration the wrong way. You should return the air to the printer. Ether move the entire fan / filter into the chamber or get an inline carbon filter that is has hose connection on both sides (for dirty and clean air) so you can pipe in the air back into the enclosure. That way you will not produce drafts from a big fans pulling out the dirty air and pulling cold air into the printer. Careful about acid washed carbon, as reintroducing the air that has been filtered with acid washed carbon will corrode your printer.
Also be careful with fan and filter sizing. That fans looks like its in the 700-900 m^3/h flow rate. I have something similar (for whole room filtration) but my filter is about 4x the size. I think it was something like 45 kg of carbon. The problem is that a given surface area of the filter can only support "some" amount of air flow. If you blow to much/fast the VOC particles don't get the time to be caught be the activated carbon.
Excellent. Thank you for this advice 👍👍
Insanely impressive build, thanks for filming it all for us!
As someone who worked as an industrial mechanic in extrusion based industry for a decade, I can confidently tell you that the pneumatic vibrator, while functional, will wear out quickly. The cleanliness and dryness of the air you're feeding it will determine how quickly. Not only are they noisy, but compressed air is also expensive to continue making. The muffler will slowly clog with dust and gunk until it barely works, Requiring you to either remove or replace it. I suggest you switch to a solenoid based vibrator, or redesign the feed throat to include a small, motor-driven agitator.
Congratulations on getting your dream job, Prof. D-Flo! Looking forward to the next status update on this project and anything else you have cooking up
i love these long format videos.. really sucks it takes so long between videos. Keep up the great work. Congratulations on your new gig.
This guy print his own DESK!!!!!!!!!! Thank you so much to document and film your insane builds, it is full of critical informations and problems solving techniques, you are awsome!
Words cannot describe how excited I was when I saw you added a new part to this series. My favourite RUclips project, currently.
And congratulations on the teaching position!
Hey, id like to mention that a HEPA filter will *not* help much with the chemical fumes that ABS produces when heated. you need some sort of chemical filter, its best to have Activated Charcoal filters.
He said his filters are carbon filters…
This build is epic, thanks for bringing us all along for the ride man.
You are really going for the gold with this printer. It's amazing to see such dedication and passion for a project. Keep it up!
Stunning and awesome! Thanks for sharing your incredible work. Worth the wait. You do you it will be epic.
I am very impressed by the work you do on this project. Keep going please!
This has been an exceptionally well made series. The complexity of the printer and the added work of filming and editing it all are really impressive. 👍🏻
I work in automation but I'm not an engineer. I've learnt a lot about the axis and motors I hear the engineers talking about. Thanks
This is an amazing video. So much effort, and so thoroughly explained. I understood everything. I also learned so much. Just hearing u tackle minor printing problems, taught me 2 more troubleshoots I definitely needed to know. Good work, and thank you.
Impressive how quickly you're dialing in on massive PLA parts. Amazing!
oh mate, delightful video! Wish you good luck conquering issues and improving your build! Thanks for uploads!
This is awesome for furniture and structural parts, also stuff like surfboards and boxes and what not, pretty cool.
Congrats on the new job, im envious of your students. Ive learned alot from this build series alone
Wow, this project has turned out so amazing, epic work!🔥
I love your motivation in this project it is very inspiring! Thank you!
You put a lot of thought into everything, and present it very well. Great work.
Your content is amazing. Super inspiring to watch you build this printer
Found your channel at the right time
Seeing you smile and laugh and “break character” so much in this video was awesome man. Keep it up!
Congrats man! You are such an inspiration and will be an AMAZING professor. Wow!
Love the project. On my 3d printer, I was having issues with I consistent bed heat, so I used some adhesive foam to insulate the underside of the bed. This meant only one side was losing heat.
You are a total maniac D-flo. This is awesome can't wait to see the boat.
Love how happy you are with your final products
Around the 24-minute mark I started giggling uncontrollably. Those "You wouldn't download a car" video clips *may* have underestimated me. :)
This is amazing!
You inspired me to build my own 900*900*900mm printer
I love this project so much, great work and video
Wow impressive built
Glad to see a new video of you! Have been eagerly waiting for this one :)
Worst case, you have made a wonderful baby raptor enclosure for when dinos do come back..... :D
Awesome. Awesome. Awesome. Entertaining and educational and envy inducing.
always worth the wait!
ASA warps less than ABS but still warps alot. I print in a heated chamber at 60c but the bigger you go, the more challenging it will be. Keep it up. Cheers.
your content is just on another level
super cool stuff and super high quality content, love it
You are awesome! Thank you for this content!
Love the pneumatic agitator great idea.
you're a pioneer. thank you.
super impressive stuff! that printer is a beast
awesome work man good luck with the new job
With ABS You really should be setting up a heat exchanger system. simple radiator setup on the out air, and pass with a simple pump to an other radiator setup on the IN air with maybe a heater. I would also suggest some Foam panel to the bottom of the build below the machine on the floor inside the footprint of the base. AS well it is also a good idea to have a good insulation blanket setup to the bottom of the the build plate. The last thing I would suggest is having 5 or more thermal sensors touching the build plate. And have that setup to the heating control unit or maybe a custom one. That way if the build plate cools too much in an area putting a lot of stress on the glass, it can be compensated for.
That is a really complicated way to avoid the simple mechanical modification of counterweights for the gantry. Yay for the new job :)
The sound of those seven motors running drives my ears insane 😂
Man you do beautiful work.
Something else that may help a lot is adding long low power squirl cage fans. like 2-4" diam. 3' long type. You can mount them on the 4 sides blowing down. This will make an air current blowing down hot air on all sides and welling up in the center. That should force a more even and constant temp inside.
Love the video, can’t wait to see more projects on the milling machine though.
Love the video. Nice work!
RIP that glass bed
i feel like little electric motor might be better than air fed fallet unjammer, if you have a power outage im guessing the compressor isnt ran by your battery system. this machine is an awesome feat of engineering! great work
Compressors usually have airtanks, so they effectively come with a built in UPS - I frequently just fill my airtank and then turn the compressor off as the tank holds enough pressure for the tool I'm using today. And with the pellet feed needing lots of air if memory serves he almost certainly has a larger air tank on his that will be able to keep that vibrator running for a good long time (if the electrical controls are actually functional).
The pallet of pellets behind you cracks me up. I see where my hobby obsession is headed :0
all this time taking the vibes out and you add a impact hammer to the head basically super brave and interesting at same time but maybe counter intuitive but 100% interesting Cheers to that and your build
I’m studying engineering at Warwick uni and we have something just like this in our engineering build space!
This is just non stop genious. I never 3d printed yet.
I've found that if you print ABS without an enclosure it's best to increase speed, acceleration and heat. The idea is to minimize the temperature gradient over the whole print. The faster you print the less the model can cool down. Increase the temperature does 2 things, allows the molten filament to keep up with the increased speed and increases layer adhesion in the corners where the print head slows down.
i do really think that adding in the smaller failiars you have experienced more often would be helpful to teach the small things about engineering that a lot of people might not know, its all part of the prosses
Very nice, next time make sure the grey cable jacket goes into the RJ11 plug, so you know only clamp on the inside wires but the jacket as well.
If the vibrations could mess up the print, I would place a slowly rotating twisted wire in the throat to keep the clogs from happening. Great build!
Great projects cheerings from germany its really awesome !!!!!!!!
Good Information, thank you.
Im not an expert, but i have some experience printing ABS.
What i learned is that Warp is caused by shrinkage of the material, im sure you already know that, but the thing is, LINEAR shrinkage creates internal tension, i tried many things, but only one thing worked for me, making small bulges on big linear areas. Imagine a rope on the floor and tied on both ends to the walls, if the rope is a perfect line, when it shrinks, it creates tension, but if you insert small bulges, when shrinking, the bulges are "absorbed" and no tension is created.
From time to time i print some custom sized Test Tube Racks for a lab on my city, it was common to have 1cm warp on a 25cm part, with enclosure and extra heating... now using this technique, i have ZERO warp on this parts without needing extra heating, in fact, i now print with a less hot bed, from 100°C to 95°C. (with 105°C, ABS stick so much on the glass that it breaks like fish scales)
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If you are interested, i can share more info and images, just ask.
Again, amazing project. You're seriously taking on professional machines like the ones from MassiveIT for just 25k; In a professional environment, that'd be a steal. Als ocongrats on getting hired as a professor, that's super cool
Anytime I need a functional commercial part I print it with a very low infill of lines, several lines high before changing directions. This provides an excellent cavity that maintains it's shape for filling with a reinforced resin. I often use epoxy with milled fiberglass, sometimes adding fillers such as cement powder or sand which adds compression strength. Two part urethane resins are available that are water like in viscosity with various set times and casting thicknesses. The urethane resins seems to be the best materials ever, but the cost is rather high.
... You can print in almost anything since the resin will maintain the shape if you use the proper resin and filter materials for your application. Urethane resins hold up to heat the best. (Also works great with resin prints.)
His "little hairs" on the model are the size of my filament ;D
You go Flo!
3D printer ❤
Love this ✌️
The printer is great and all but those white adidas 4D-s are looking amazing
Thanks!
I appreciate the contribution to my pellet fund 😎
A small suggestion on the vibrator would be to place a flow control on it. If you can slow it down a bit and still have enough vibration to keep the resin flowing, you can shave some of the operating costs off of the machine. I use them on all of my equipment that we use vibrators on, it tends to lengthen the life of the vibrator as well.
Been waiting for this!
With this printer setup, you could theoretically slice the object in a way to do multiple layers in one area before moving to a new spot to print. It should also reduce stringing as well.
just wanted to say that HEPA filters don't actually filter volatile organic compounds for anyone wanting to add an air filter to their printer. you want activated carbon that's made for air filtration
im in TN also. and yes the darn power outages lol.
Hey just a thought, why not use a piezo sensor in the throat of the pellet receiver to detect falling pellets and if it doesn’t detect any pellets (I.e. it’s jammed) then use the vibrator. This would have a second advantage to pause the print of pellets weren’t flowing and can act as a “filament out” sensor?
I have those same couplers on my printer on the duel z there are awsome great choice
DUUUUUUDEEEEEE!!!!!! Awesome!!!!
I have the same issues printing ABS on my large (lol not compared to yours) 3D printer, I recently did a 14x14x20" print of a blower housing, and warping was the big issue. I DO have a thermal camera, and I monitored the internal temp and found even though I have a heated chamber, most of the heat was accumulating on the top. I am currently designing a recirculating fan that sucks from the top and distributes below. Using Taulman 910HDT for anything on the inside of the chamber, and the walls are insulated.
I am also running a Duet3HC mainboard, but none of the fancy motors like yours although your video is very temping to make me want to build a nice CoreXY with a very high chamber temp.
Awesome job as usual, and congrats on your professorship. Wondering if a big piece of ~1" Garolite with a segmented aluminum subframe would be preferable (albeit much more expensive)? Would recommend re-crimping your RJ-11 connectors -- the connector should be pinching on the outer sheathing of the cable to hold it in place so that you aren't relying on the tiny copper contacts for physical support (I usually leave about 5 to 8 mm of wire after the sheath, and you can usually message things into place).
Are you saying to use the garolite for the bed?
Garolite is a brand name for g10 which is commonly used in knife handles and is much cheaper
congrats on the dream job!
Great job on the video! Love seeing these projects. Keep up the amazing work. You should try some ASA if you can find the pellets. Way less noxious than abs.
This project is amazing. You are great.
I have some tips for you.
abs releases styrene during melting, it is not adsorbed on coal. the most affordable filter is fine iron shavings.
Glass for the table is usually used to make it smooth. But at such sizes, an ordinary thick sheet of iron with milling can be smoother and even work better .
Some plastics stick to iron without special formulations to increase adhesion. I hope you didn't manage to solve all the problems and my advice will be useful for you. Good luck with your cool project.
P.S. I am sorry about mistakes, my english is not good
i love your videos... and i really love how you show your problems and how you are working through them... there is only one thing that I hope you can improve... especially before you go be a professor at a university... and that is saying the word "exspecially" instead of "especially"!!!! :)
Very nice! Regarding the glass bed plate, you probably don't need to use borosilicate. It's not heat by itself that causes glass to crack, it's differential expansion. If the bed heating is reasonably uniform and the aluminium plate spreads the heat well enough, then there won't be enough differential expansion to cause cracking. I have used 4mm float glass bed plates (on smaller printers of course!) on top of 6mm aluminium at up to 120C. Don't be tempted to use toughened (tempered) glass, because the tempering process typically causes it to warp.
Wow 👌