Thanks for the tip. I used a 0.6mm. I was very proud of using this one because the print times where 20% (or something) faster. Now I hear about 1mm and 1.2mm nozzles... haha. As you can read an see in the video I'm a complete beginner in 3D printing.
@@Dzjiefoils you manage to do pretty well, and when the printers are working at night it doesn't make any difference if they are slow or not. To print a board the best would be infinite printer bed ^^
from a guy that has built 2 boards out of a long board one surfs goog one dosent...i give you mad respect for the efforts ...nice job ....hello from the Virgins Islands...season starting to show trself here
Nice job. For future, I would recommend to have a big universal holes through board for easy mounting and unmounting inserts with fins. They can be fixed with screws inplace for example. Then you keep your waterproof body separate and isolated from any inserts you have. So inserts won't impact your isolated contour.
Nice build. Really good use of 3d printing and composites. FYI, I can see you had bubbles in the printed parts. This is a common sign with PETG that the material has absorbed water. I would recommend drying it out and if possible keep it in the dryer while printing.
Yeah, there were some bubbles in the first parts, I tried heating a roll of filament in the oven to dry it out. I completely melted the filament into one block! Luckily I got a free replacement roll of filament from: Reflow
you went there for the solely purpose of making it. Love the outcome. Maybe not as a main board but sometimes, someplace, its usable. if not.. great display piece.
Actually I am this guy… I find so cool that Geert actually did it. He is the most dedicated of us (I started the prints but I gave up after the 20th parts…🥲 and I realized that PLA was a poor choice due to the glass transition temperature. And I couldn’t print ABS at this time). I started this project during the 1st Covid framing, just to ease my mind and keep it in shape😉. The design was pretty straightforward once I could get a decent 3D parametric file of a board (I choose a shortboad in this case, easy to print). As almost all the good shaping softwares are not free, I search for a free board design, as I am not a shaping expert. I found it on Grabcad. My goal was to be able to make a board with a standard 3D printer, roughly with the same design (isogrids) as the cardboard surfboard project, but 3D printed. & No charge ! If some of you out there enjoyed this work and would like to get the same type of design (hollowed boards) with other kind of surfboards (long, fish…) get me a proper parametric file and I’ll do the rest 🤝🏻
such an achievement! I suppose desigining the next board to have glasssed on fins from the start would reduce the chance for leakage. Looking forward to seeing how this evolves. great stuff!
The issue comes from the glass layer that you have used. Find a thin material and stick it to the structure to make it flat to it . Then apply glass layers as traditional laminating . Although that's the future of building surfboards, well done!
Thanks, I have been looking for a "in between" material like you mention. I haven't found a good material to use for this application. Do you have any suggestions?
Nice DYI project man! I hope that 3D printing will be a more accessible reality in Brazil in the near future, so that we can print ideas like you did. Congratulations on the content and success in the next projects. 👏
I'll admit I never thought this would work out but you showed me wrong (once again!!). I'm so impressed with your wild ideas and determination and patience! 👍🏻
@@michaellee8853yeah, I looked into that, but ASA tends to warp during printing if the environment changes. I cant guarantee a stable climate around my printer, so it would probably fail.
I love the semi-transparency. I think with a a commercial printer and some future engineering we will have unbreakable boards with better capabilities. Great job!
Awesome project from your surf footage it looks like it doesn't float as well it looks like you sink more than a normal board which makes sense of how you said you were slower than the other guys
You might want to get a filament dryer for that PETG. It looks like it has a ton of moisture in it by the looks of how rough your prints turned out. Too much moisture in the filament creates steam in the nozzle and will cause it to kind of bubble out of your nozzle and make it look rough and bumpy
Thanks, multiple people reply’s saying this. I tried drying one roll of filament in my oven but it turned up melting like a solid piece. I got some advice how to do it properly next time. 🤙👌
@@Dzjiefoils Yeah the oven is too unstable to hold a low heat. you would need to buy a dehydrator or buy a filament dryer. I bet you could get one for free from a company if you did a small video on it too. Sunlu sells one that holds 4 rolls, so maybe reach out to them and ask if they can send u one for review.
👍🏼👍🏼Very cool. I made boards one summer in 95' at Huntington Beach, learned from a Pro.. Good times. One needs a Pro Surfer to use ones board to sell any. You need a name. I DIDN'T, lol. My board was called Tami Target Surfboards with a yellow, red and blue Bullseye. I advertised it in Surfing Magazine in 95 or 96.🍀😎
You are a legend! I always wanted to print a surfbaord but didnt have the time to do it. I am sure you can optmize the STL file to print it faster (can help you out to set a profile if you want), 12 hours for a piece this size is a lot! Also, covring the board with carbon fiber instead of fiberglass might give it more strength and thereforce more surfable, yah, it might destory the cool design. love your content, I am sure your channel will explode one day!
Thanks for the kind words! I tried all kinds of things with the printer settings to make it go faster.. but it didn’t work. If I ever make another one I will ask some people for help with printing, and I will also buy a new printer because this one is starting to fail.
@@Dzjiefoils Maybe carbon just on the bottom. Greate video BTW, looking foward to see updates. also would be interesting to see you make other smaller boards with similar technique. Maybe a foil pump board , or wake board. would be faster to print
Just to mention a few things. You can use much larger nozzle size for such big prints and reduce printing time substantially. Even using 0.6 mm is more than twice as fast as the standard mass 0.4 mm. For this large print you can go even with 1.2 mm, given that your extruder is capable of this higher flow rate. You will reduce printing time by a HUGE amount and have stronger layer adhesion. Translucent materials are more brittle and tend to get even more brittle with time. For this application I would use opaque material and finally - I would use ASA as it's more durable and more UV resistant.
Beautiful job done! My reservations are that the 3d printed plastic will not hold up to the forces of waves for too long. But alas that is why it is an experiment. Maybe incorporate a few more cross bracings in GRP?
It looks really nice! Great job. And what a lovely place you two have :) As I used to longboard a lot I would still love to try surfing sometime in my life.
For draining the last bit, you could make an inlet and outlet venting hole. Put a small air draft through it (using a small ventilator with some static pressure, like some of the radial fans they use for 3D printer part cooling) and then then just let it running for a few day's.
I have made a new design myself. In fusion 360, I made a hexagon pattern, but I don't know how to add the fillet angles. You want to take a look at it?
@@Dzjiefoils yeah you can! I would suggest carbon fiber PETG with your prusa because nylon warps without a heated enclosure. Just search carbon fiber PETG. You will need a hardened nozzle too! Make sure you can print at the higher temperatures PETG needs too. PLA can melt in the sun too, so PETG would be the material of choice if you want to take this board to tropical climates
That’s very cool. Maybe next version you will design lock connectors like puzzles to connect parts, like tubes with openings on one side to put another tube from another part …
That looks great. Sorry to state the obvious but you should have put the holes between cells all at the bottom corner of each cell when propped upright. That way it would be easy to drain the water with a drain plug at the tail.
@@Dzjiefoils I only know because some of my normal boards have got a bit of water in them so I drill a hole in the base and prop them up for a coupe days and they have lost as much as 1.5lb of water.
Nice work. Somehow reminds me of an old surf movie from 1974 called Dark Star. Made by John Carpenter. There is small spaceship crew on 20 year mission and then one guy says " .. I whish I took a surfboard with me, so I could wax it every now and then..." :) I guess you have to do something between surf trips or during flat days. Cheers.
When I first came across this video, I thought, wow, that looks so advanced and artistic at the same time. But after watching and seeing the numbers. I can see, it is a great art piece but way too time consuming, expensive, and not really solving any problems in the board building industry. All the 3-D printing accomplished was to replace the foam surfboard blank, but you still have to fiberglass it by hand with all those steps, just like standard pro board building. But you did do an amazing job.
Put some led lights in that thing and make. Sick night surfing video. That board is so cool!! Any interest in building a kayak or canoe? Do you think it would ever be possible to print the parts so they have slots that interlock? Sorry for all the couch advice. You did such a cool thing that it’s got my mind racing. 😅
Haha nice! Never thought that I would get peoples mind active this way. The interlock part is definitely possible, only then you need to design this into the 3D file. I don’t have the skills to do this (yet). I don’t need a kayak or canoe, so won’t ever build one I think. 🤔 maybe I will put in some LED’s!
This is beautiful on so many levels. The idea, the production and the outcome. Wish you luck and to find an easy way to fix that leak. Btw, will the water just evaporate if you leave that somewhere hot, but not in the direct sunlight?
Your work is nevertheless extraordinary, technical, precise, you just need to make a few small corrections and you will have a great board to surf on the waves. Good boy
I’m no engineer but I have a few ideas to make this more feasible: The Board would be a lot more durable if you made the parts interlocking and coated the final version with glue/resin once you’re done. If you use a soluble material you could probably fuse the connections before applying the coat but I have never done that. I would add 1 metal rod going horizontally and 1 vertically through the seams (meeting each other where youd usually stand on) That would 100.000x the structural durability if done right.
como proyecto es una gran idea , si se pudiera hacer una impresora con un recorrido de 8' pies y usar algun plastico reciclable seria un boom comercial , exelente
Next one you should use recycled PETG from plastic bottles! There are a few good filament makers in the DIY world :-) btw i love the Vanderwaal sticky pads! never going back to wax
@@Dzjiefoils that's awesome 👍 glad you got a fresh roll. I'm in a humid climate on the east coast of the USA. I have to pop my in the dehydrator if I leave it out for just 2 weeks! If you don't have one yet, a food dehydrator is very inexpensive and fits several rolls of filament and are able to have the temp set for different filament types
I use Form Futura CarbonFill for most of my structural 3D prints. A little easier to print than pure PETG but way stronger and good friction surfaces for gluing. Downside, not transparent, but a very dark grey. It has printed structural parts for my bicycle, including unbreakable pannier hooks, my garmin bracket and a pair of "flat" converter plates for using with SPD clip-in pedals. Should be well up to a strong surfboard using the design you've demoed. Cool project. Also, use thermal insets for skeg screws. They push in with a soldering irn and a steady hand and bond better than screwing directly into the layers and the heatpress improves the layer bonds around the threaded insert. (localised anealing)
Impressive, but you could print it way faster with thicker nozzle. Also with a faster printer in general could recude time by 2/3 - most recent printers are way faster than prusa slingers. And yeah, layers leak water in. So need triple epoxy cover
Thanks man, I was a cheap second hand printer, so I'm very happy that it printed the all the pieces. I used a 6mm nozzle. And looked into speeding up the printing process. But after watching dozens of RUclips tutorials I gave up with the printer settings and just let this Prusa printer do the work.
Would it be faster if u sanded the finish down super fine and put a hydrophobic layer on it. On the bottom only ofcourse. I think the finish on it right now would induce alot of drag
@@Dzjiefoils It didn't accoured to me until the last time I visited the Netherlands this year you can actually do kiting and surfing there. I was sliding waves of New Zealand beaches on the short body board and find it super fun. I am into rockclimbing and mountaneering. No surfing opportunities in Czechia. But will definatelly think about kiting, windsurfing etc. Would be cool to do it on the Austrian lakes or next time I visit the Netherlands (I go the every year). Cheers
Hey, how are you doing? Been thinking about printing a minikayak for exploration of austrian lakes. Basically a shorter and thicker surfboard. How are your sessions with the 3D surf long term?
Wow! hace tiempo tengo ganas de hacer esta tabla, y me alegra que hayas podido fabricarla con tan buen resultado!. Voy a mirar tu proceso mas detenidamente para ver que se puede mejorar. No es conveniente ponerle copos nuevos para las quillas? en lugar de usar el alojamiento que viene predeterminado en la impresión. Saludos desde Uruguay!
Thanks for your comment, I tried to translate it with google, but I doesn't really do a good job... Do I understand that you suggest to put regular finboxes in instead of using the weak printed finboxes? If so you are totally right. And if you want to print this board as well, make sure to read all the comments. There are lots of people here with way more knowledge and skills than me who have given many helpful tips!
Thanks. Yeah thats whats done in conventional glass on fins, but these are glued into the fcs boxes, so same mechanics as when the finboxscrew would have worked. I chose to not use rope to minimize the weight. But if I’d done it, the board wouldn’t be leaky now!
Cost, durability and performance are the gatekeepers. You could certainly make some really cool looking boards. getting the right feel/ flex will take a bit of development, I'd imagine. Was it lighter or heavier than you expected?
So fun! What do you think it is in the shape or size of board that didn't make it as fast as the other boards out there? Would this be better in larger waves?
Thanks! 🙏 I think it will perform better in larger waves, this was just too mushy. I think it’s because the board is pretty heavy and small. It needs a powerful wave to get up to speed, and some more input from the surfer.
You've done an incredible job! I have a question: if you fill the gaps with foam, like the ones used in construction, wouldn't it help it float better?
Thanks! I don't think so. Foam adds weight and air floats best right? I don't know for sure, but this was my logic. And I don't like the looks when the see-through board isn't seethrough anymore.
Great work. Looks great. We are also currently working on two wakesurfers 1x PETG and 1x LW-PLA. LW PLA is not as easy to print as PETG. Did you have any problems with the EOPXY "drops"? Have you tried different EPOXY? We are currently testing other lamination options. In addition, it is not easy with larger extinguishers that the fiberglass does not sag. I printed the same connections for the individual parts with holes and "bolts". This makes it easier for gluing. I would have to upload the files, actually wanted to make some videos, currently only have a few photos, may still come.
Great! No epoxy drops because I saturated and the cloth on the table with plastic. I used a squeegee to push out all excess resin before it goes on the plastic structure. Did you design these boards yourself? I’m looking for someone to design a foil board structure to 3D print.
I think it would be cool to build somthing like this! How much fiber glass and resin did you use? Would you recomend putting in a wooden stringer? Also do you have any ideas on how to seal the leak at the back?
I think I used about 8 metres of fibreglass 70cm wide roll, and 2kg of epoxy. Wooden stringet would make it even heavier and not see-through, so I would stick with fibreglass. I’m gonna fix the hole in the back by putting epoxy on/in it.
It is more expensive and less durable than a surfboard 😂
Yeah, but it looks 10 times better than a normal surfboard and it was a very fun project!
And it’s more special because who would think of diy see-through surfboard
And it’s not more expensive than a shop bought board. They go for around 500 to 700€ where I live. This project costs me around €250 max.
@@Dzjiefoilsthat’s alot of savings almost three times
Who cares when it looks that cool... Even if you hang it it's awesome
That look of pride when it was finished. Priceless. Even if you don't want to surf it, its an epic decoration piece. Great job, thanks for the video.
Thanks man! Appreciate it! 🙏
Agreed. 🎉
@@raulrosario5633thanks!
little tip : with a 1mm nozzle you print 3 or 4 time faster and the print is as resistant and sometimes even stronger...
You have to admire the work with 0.4 mm nozzle though
Thanks for the tip. I used a 0.6mm. I was very proud of using this one because the print times where 20% (or something) faster. Now I hear about 1mm and 1.2mm nozzles... haha. As you can read an see in the video I'm a complete beginner in 3D printing.
@@Dzjiefoils you manage to do pretty well, and when the printers are working at night it doesn't make any difference if they are slow or not. To print a board the best would be infinite printer bed ^^
@@Dzjiefoils now you have to print a pair of swimming fins in TPU...
That sounds like a nice challenge! Will look into that for sure!
from a guy that has built 2 boards out of a long board one surfs goog one dosent...i give you mad respect for the efforts ...nice job ....hello from the Virgins Islands...season starting to show trself here
Nice!! Thanks for your reply and enjoy the surf season!
I didn't expect it to be that beautiful, great build!
Thank you sir!
What a cool idea!! Love that you spent the time to do it all! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks dude!
That board turned out great! Looks like this project took A LOT of patience and ingenuity 🔥
Thanks man! Yep, It definitely got me thinking about my next steps a few times!
@@Dzjiefoils how does it ride compared to a PU board?
It’s heavier and more stiff. I only surf eps-epoxy boards, but I think PU surfs a lot better than this plastic thing.
Massive amount of work gone into this. Great video well done.
Thanks a lot. The printer did most of the work though!
great job, i see you live in Nordwijk, I came there many times when i was working for ESA and I remember watching people surfing. Bravo!!
Yes! Great place to live, only the waves suck most of the time. I actually worked at ESTEC at the sportscentre: Escape.
I am imagining printing the various parts in different colours/patterns...awesome project and thanks for sharing
Thanks for your comment! Just go and do it!
Great effort bro. Thru all the follies of 3D printing to a practical & functional item. Hats off to you.
Thanks! 🙏
Nice job. For future, I would recommend to have a big universal holes through board for easy mounting and unmounting inserts with fins. They can be fixed with screws inplace for example. Then you keep your waterproof body separate and isolated from any inserts you have. So inserts won't impact your isolated contour.
Yeah you are right. Next time I will just glue some fcs boxes in a printed cavity.
Wow! Beautiful board! I hope you'll be able to get the water out and fix the leak! Looking forward to your next video!
Yeah! Thanks. I will update you soon about the water ingress.
Nice build. Really good use of 3d printing and composites. FYI, I can see you had bubbles in the printed parts. This is a common sign with PETG that the material has absorbed water. I would recommend drying it out and if possible keep it in the dryer while printing.
Yeah, there were some bubbles in the first parts, I tried heating a roll of filament in the oven to dry it out. I completely melted the filament into one block! Luckily I got a free replacement roll of filament from: Reflow
@@Dzjiefoils howwww
@@Dzjiefoils You need to dry it at around 100C, so water will evaporate but plastic won't melt.
@@aspinx I know, but I think the oven temperature gauge wasn't working or something.
Could also be caused by a too high print temperature. With some printers the real temp in the heat chamber is higher than programed.
you went there for the solely purpose of making it. Love the outcome. Maybe not as a main board but sometimes, someplace, its usable. if not.. great display piece.
Exactly!
What an awesome looking board. Nice job!!
Thanks man!
the most beautiful board yet!
Thanks man!
The man who design this masterpiece deserve more highlights on his work !
Actually I am this guy… I find so cool that Geert actually did it. He is the most dedicated of us (I started the prints but I gave up after the 20th parts…🥲 and I realized that PLA was a poor choice due to the glass transition temperature. And I couldn’t print ABS at this time).
I started this project during the 1st Covid framing, just to ease my mind and keep it in shape😉. The design was pretty straightforward once I could get a decent 3D parametric file of a board (I choose a shortboad in this case, easy to print). As almost all the good shaping softwares are not free, I search for a free board design, as I am
not a shaping expert. I found it on Grabcad.
My goal was to be able to make a board with a standard 3D printer, roughly with the same design (isogrids) as the cardboard surfboard project, but 3D printed. & No charge !
If some of you out there enjoyed this work and would like to get the same type of design (hollowed boards) with other kind of surfboards (long, fish…) get me a proper parametric file and I’ll do the rest 🤝🏻
🙏🙌🙌
All @sslchab’s work is very appriciated!!
I admire the dedication you put into this. The board looks awesome!
Thanks a lot!
great video though. Showing the many capabilities of 3d Printing! How do you feel this board performed vs standard surf boards ?
It performed pretty bad so far. It’s too heavy and I don’t trust it enough to put pressure on the deck during turns.
@@Dzjiefoils even after all that fiber glassing ?
Yeah. Th plastic structure is just too weak. The fins that make the triangular structure are too thin.
such an achievement! I suppose desigining the next board to have glasssed on fins from the start would reduce the chance for leakage. Looking forward to seeing how this evolves. great stuff!
Thanks man!
The next one will have spaces to glue proper fin boxes in.
Labor of love for the craft and sport. Nice one!
Thanks!
The issue comes from the glass layer that you have used. Find a thin material and stick it to the structure to make it flat to it . Then apply glass layers as traditional laminating . Although that's the future of building surfboards, well done!
Thanks, I have been looking for a "in between" material like you mention. I haven't found a good material to use for this application. Do you have any suggestions?
Nice DYI project man! I hope that 3D printing will be a more accessible reality in Brazil in the near future, so that we can print ideas like you did. Congratulations on the content and success in the next projects. 👏
Thanks man! I hope so too! It’s really fun to print handy stuff.
I'll admit I never thought this would work out but you showed me wrong (once again!!). I'm so impressed with your wild ideas and determination and patience! 👍🏻
Thanks my lovely girlfriend, but I'm sitting next to you! 😂
Unique work of art.
Not sure if it's really practical, but what a nice job.
Thanks!🙏
This turned out so cool! Very unique look as well. Interested to see how it holds up long term.
Thanks! 😊 It feels like it’s not gonna hold up long term. But we will see! 🙏
@@Dzjiefoilsasa might be a good choice for material because it is very resistant to uv damage and has similar strength to abs
@@michaellee8853yeah, I looked into that, but ASA tends to warp during printing if the environment changes. I cant guarantee a stable climate around my printer, so it would probably fail.
I love the semi-transparency. I think with a a commercial printer and some future engineering we will have unbreakable boards with better capabilities. Great job!
That would be very nice!
Awesome project from your surf footage it looks like it doesn't float as well it looks like you sink more than a normal board which makes sense of how you said you were slower than the other guys
Thanks for your comment! Yeah that could be the case. It’s pretty heavy. Around 5 kg, so maybe thats why it’s so deep in the water?
Great project and excellent outcome. Am sure you'll perfect them in future boards. Well done indeed. Greetings from Thailand.
Thanks man! 🙏
Such a beautiful and interesting board. Reminds me of fancy wooden inlays. Unfortunate for the fin boxes.
Thanks! 🙏 wooden inlays are very cool as well!
Would be sick to put led light strip inside with waterproof plug to charge … and ride behind wakeboard boat… amazing build man!
Yeah that would be nice!
You might want to get a filament dryer for that PETG. It looks like it has a ton of moisture in it by the looks of how rough your prints turned out. Too much moisture in the filament creates steam in the nozzle and will cause it to kind of bubble out of your nozzle and make it look rough and bumpy
Thanks, multiple people reply’s saying this. I tried drying one roll of filament in my oven but it turned up melting like a solid piece. I got some advice how to do it properly next time. 🤙👌
@@Dzjiefoils Yeah the oven is too unstable to hold a low heat. you would need to buy a dehydrator or buy a filament dryer. I bet you could get one for free from a company if you did a small video on it too. Sunlu sells one that holds 4 rolls, so maybe reach out to them and ask if they can send u one for review.
Thank you for the advice. Will try to get something arranged!
👍🏼👍🏼Very cool. I made boards one summer in 95' at Huntington Beach, learned from a Pro.. Good times. One needs a Pro Surfer to use ones board to sell any. You need a name. I DIDN'T, lol. My board was called Tami Target Surfboards with a yellow, red and blue Bullseye. I advertised it in Surfing Magazine in 95 or 96.🍀😎
Very cool! You only did it for 1 summer? I think I will never stop. It's such an addictive process!
@@Dzjiefoils I was a student, summers off. Funny thing is, the next summer I took skydiving lessons. I could never just have one 'flavor' in life. 😎
@@stomptheelites sound good!! 👍
You are a legend! I always wanted to print a surfbaord but didnt have the time to do it.
I am sure you can optmize the STL file to print it faster (can help you out to set a profile if you want), 12 hours for a piece this size is a lot!
Also, covring the board with carbon fiber instead of fiberglass might give it more strength and thereforce more surfable, yah, it might destory the cool design.
love your content, I am sure your channel will explode one day!
Thanks for the kind words! I tried all kinds of things with the printer settings to make it go faster.. but it didn’t work. If I ever make another one I will ask some people for help with printing, and I will also buy a new printer because this one is starting to fail.
And I also thought about carbon fibre, but I didn't want to spoil the looks.
@@Dzjiefoils Maybe carbon just on the bottom.
Greate video BTW, looking foward to see updates.
also would be interesting to see you make other smaller boards with similar technique. Maybe a foil pump board , or wake board. would be faster to print
All great idea's. The see-through foil will also be handy to see jellyfish being sliced by the foil.
Just to mention a few things. You can use much larger nozzle size for such big prints and reduce printing time substantially. Even using 0.6 mm is more than twice as fast as the standard mass 0.4 mm. For this large print you can go even with 1.2 mm, given that your extruder is capable of this higher flow rate. You will reduce printing time by a HUGE amount and have stronger layer adhesion. Translucent materials are more brittle and tend to get even more brittle with time. For this application I would use opaque material and finally - I would use ASA as it's more durable and more UV resistant.
Thanks for the advice! If I ever make another one I will keep this in mind. I used a 0.6 nozzle though.
Very interesting and enjoyable video. Sorry that your board had a leak.
Thanks! Will fix it soon and enjoy it some more!
It's a good thing for beginners who don't want to spend a lot for a surfboard
They can better build one with foam. Thats cheaper
But this skips the “difficult” shaping step.
Very cool! You should be able to print those parts with the holes in them using Prusa slicer. ( for future reference )
Yeah so, I don't have the use the soldering iron? That would be great. I have to look into that.
Do you know the setting for that?
The decidation man, awesome job! I'm always scared of of big projects but this is very motivating. Love your work!
Thanks a lot! I you spread all the work over a year, than is a lot of little projects. Small steps towards a bigger goal!
Beautiful job done! My reservations are that the 3d printed plastic will not hold up to the forces of waves for too long. But alas that is why it is an experiment.
Maybe incorporate a few more cross bracings in GRP?
Thanks!🙏 my thoughts as well that it eventually wont hold up… whats GRP?
That looks awesome even if it doesnt perform its amazing well done man
Thanks! 🙏
It looks really nice! Great job. And what a lovely place you two have :)
As I used to longboard a lot I would still love to try surfing sometime in my life.
For draining the last bit, you could make an inlet and outlet venting hole. Put a small air draft through it (using a small ventilator with some static pressure, like some of the radial fans they use for 3D printer part cooling) and then then just let it running for a few day's.
Thank you! We are very lucky to have our little piece of paradise so close to the beach ❤
Yeah, just go on a holiday to a nice place and rent a longboard.! Surfing is too good to stop doing.
Thanks! Will try this, but Ideally I only want to drill one hole!
Congratulations!!! It's a very challenging project.
Thanks! 🙏
i would recommend adding fillet angles to the 3d prints. youve got sharp angles putting pressure on the fiberglass which will create high spots.
Never heard of fillet angles, but will look into it! Thanks
I have made a new design myself. In fusion 360, I made a hexagon pattern, but I don't know how to add the fillet angles. You want to take a look at it?
@@Dzjiefoils Hey I emailed you through youtube, on some suggestions for a hexagon.
@@TheLotroNerd You are the best!
amazing video! the board came out better than i was expecting!
Thanks! 🙏
Coolest board i have seen ever! Wouldn't surf it, too nice!
Haha thanks! 🙏
For the next version, use some carbon fiber nylon for the fin screw holes. This project is SO COOL. I love this!
Can you print with that?
And thanks for the kind words! 🙏🙌
@@Dzjiefoils yeah you can! I would suggest carbon fiber PETG with your prusa because nylon warps without a heated enclosure. Just search carbon fiber PETG. You will need a hardened nozzle too! Make sure you can print at the higher temperatures PETG needs too. PLA can melt in the sun too, so PETG would be the material of choice if you want to take this board to tropical climates
Thanks for the tips! Will look into it! 🙏🙌👌
Great work, looks amazing!
Thanks!!🙏
This could be the start of something big....keep developing!
There are actual company’s making 3D printed boards already. Check out Wyve.
This hard work deserved a sub… thanks
Thank you!
That’s very cool. Maybe next version you will design lock connectors like puzzles to connect parts, like tubes with openings on one side to put another tube from another part …
That would be a lot better indeed. I’m not skilled enough yet in 3D design to do this yet. Maybe after some practicing!
Cool idea. Unfortunately with warm weather it will weaken though.
Luckily, I live in the Netherlands 😂☀️🤷♂️
Impressive Results - Very Cool Project !
Thank you!!🙏
The result is beautiful !
Thanks!🙏
What a cool project. I hope you get the water out.
Thanks.! I will get the water out. No matter what.
Brilliant idea specifically if u got a 3d printer amazing work
Thanks 🙏!
Nice video, try printing with more walls(make it stronger) and you can use bigger nozzles with high temp
Thanks for the tips. I will keep it in mind when doing the next one.
I'm no surfer - but I like the look of your board. Thanx for sharing!
Thanks! 🙏
Sensacional.
Isso não apenas uma prancha de surf.
É uma obra de arte.
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Thanks very much!
Amazing work man… you can put lights inside of the board for the night surf sesion 😏😎
Yeah!! Maybe I will when I fix the leak
Transparency is cool.
Yeah!
Well done. You did an amazing job !!!!!
You tried, you succeeded !!!
Yeah! Thanks! 🙏
That looks great. Sorry to state the obvious but you should have put the holes between cells all at the bottom corner of each cell when propped upright. That way it would be easy to drain the water with a drain plug at the tail.
Yep you are totally right. I never thought water entering the board, but I should have known better.
@@Dzjiefoils I only know because some of my normal boards have got a bit of water in them so I drill a hole in the base and prop them up for a coupe days and they have lost as much as 1.5lb of water.
Nice. The lighter the better!
Such a cool project. I wish I could have had shot with you and the surfboard by drone filming.
That would be nice yes! 🙌 I’ve got a drone too! What type of drone do you have?
@@Dzjiefoils I use DJI mini 3 pro. yet I haven't fly for a while. wish all the best :)
Nice!
Nice work. Somehow reminds me of an old surf movie from 1974 called Dark Star. Made by John Carpenter. There is small spaceship crew on 20 year mission and then one guy says " .. I whish I took a surfboard with me, so I could wax it every now and then..." :) I guess you have to do something between surf trips or during flat days. Cheers.
Will definitely try to find that movie somewhere.! Sounds great.
Good innovation dude! I guess the industry will see this as an opportunity.! Patent the idea!
Thanks, but I’m definitely not the first. I thinks there’s already boards on the market from company’s like Wyve.
When I first came across this video, I thought, wow, that looks so advanced and artistic at the same time. But after watching and seeing the numbers. I can see, it is a great art piece but way too time consuming, expensive, and not really solving any problems in the board building industry. All the 3-D printing accomplished was to replace the foam surfboard blank, but you still have to fiberglass it by hand with all those steps, just like standard pro board building. But you did do an amazing job.
Tanks man! It’s definitely not solving any surfboard building problems. I can agree with you on that. My most time consuming project so far… 🤷♂️😎
So cool you actually did it, you nailed it 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks!
Incrível, ótimo trabalho! Se eu fosse tão habilidoso como você com resina, eu faria um longboard para mim, impressiona todos!
Haha nice, just do it!
Put some led lights in that thing and make. Sick night surfing video.
That board is so cool!!
Any interest in building a kayak or canoe?
Do you think it would ever be possible to print the parts so they have slots that interlock?
Sorry for all the couch advice. You did such a cool thing that it’s got my mind racing. 😅
Haha nice! Never thought that I would get peoples mind active this way. The interlock part is definitely possible, only then you need to design this into the 3D file. I don’t have the skills to do this (yet). I don’t need a kayak or canoe, so won’t ever build one I think. 🤔 maybe I will put in some LED’s!
@@Dzjiefoils thanks for the awesome video and i appreciate the response. ✌️
No problem dude!
Beautiful!!!
Thanks!
great pal, you are the rock! the problem is that it looks like a lot of work
Yes it is a lot of work. But it’s a fun hobby project though!
also, you could make a color pattern on each segment... that would look awesome.
Yeah! That’s a good idea!👍
Those waves look pretty soft too. Probably didnt help much. Looks more suited got a longboard 8.5ft or more.
Yeah, welcome to Dutch waves!
Riding experimental cant wait to see you pump on it might be a fast board🤙🏾
Yeah I hope so! The tail is pretty wide, so it should plane pretty easily.
This is beautiful on so many levels. The idea, the production and the outcome. Wish you luck and to find an easy way to fix that leak.
Btw, will the water just evaporate if you leave that somewhere hot, but not in the direct sunlight?
Yeah but the evaporated water must find it’s way out. That is turning out to be tricky. I’m already trying for a week. But were getting there!
And thanks for the kind words!
@Dzjiefoils Thank you for answering
Exactly. But I will be patient and get all the water out. 🤞👍👌
Your work is nevertheless extraordinary, technical, precise, you just need to make a few small corrections and you will have a great board to surf on the waves. Good boy
Thanks boss!
I’m no engineer but I have a few ideas to make this more feasible:
The Board would be a lot more durable if you made the parts interlocking and coated the final version with glue/resin once you’re done.
If you use a soluble material you could probably fuse the connections before applying the coat but I have never done that.
I would add 1 metal rod going horizontally and 1 vertically through the seams (meeting each other where youd usually stand on)
That would 100.000x the structural durability if done right.
Interlocking would be great indeed. Metal rods would make it too heavy, Fibreglass stringer and skin will prevent it from snapping.
BRUH! What a rad project! Well done! Came out SICK!
Thanks!
como proyecto es una gran idea , si se pudiera hacer una impresora con un recorrido de 8' pies y usar algun plastico reciclable seria un boom comercial , exelente
There are printers that size, but they are very expensive!
Use a bigger nozzle and layer height to reduce print times ! Great work
Thanks for the tip! This was with a 0.6 nozzle. But will have to look into the layer hight settings. 🤙
@@Dzjiefoils you could easily print it with a 1 or even a 1.2 mm nozzle. but finetuning the printer is an important part too!
@@freelife-productions5745 Wow 1.2mm I didn't even knew that this existed. Sick! Will look into this.
@@Dzjiefoils yeah they go up to 2.85mm i believe
@@freelife-productions5745 wow sick!
Next one you should use recycled PETG from plastic bottles! There are a few good filament makers in the DIY world :-) btw i love the Vanderwaal sticky pads! never going back to wax
This is exactly that. Recycled PETG
Awesome stuff. Looks like your PETG is a bit wet, I would recommend dehydrating it
Yes, you are right. I tried drying it in the oven, but got stuck with a completely fused roll of filament. Luckily Reflow send me a new roll for free.
@@Dzjiefoils that's awesome 👍 glad you got a fresh roll.
I'm in a humid climate on the east coast of the USA. I have to pop my in the dehydrator if I leave it out for just 2 weeks!
If you don't have one yet, a food dehydrator is very inexpensive and fits several rolls of filament and are able to have the temp set for different filament types
Great advice! Will look into that!
Such a great design of surf board, I think you used a white PTEG makes me wonder if you used translucent what it would have looked like.
Thanks! This is translucent (see-through), PETG, But I made some errors in the printer settings I believe.
I use Form Futura CarbonFill for most of my structural 3D prints. A little easier to print than pure PETG but way stronger and good friction surfaces for gluing. Downside, not transparent, but a very dark grey. It has printed structural parts for my bicycle, including unbreakable pannier hooks, my garmin bracket and a pair of "flat" converter plates for using with SPD clip-in pedals. Should be well up to a strong surfboard using the design you've demoed. Cool project. Also, use thermal insets for skeg screws. They push in with a soldering irn and a steady hand and bond better than screwing directly into the layers and the heatpress improves the layer bonds around the threaded insert. (localised anealing)
Also, I guessed it might be more expensive than foam core! Carbon fibre PETG would be even more expensive. Worth a try for strength, though.
Thanks for your comment! Love all the details!
And the tips.
Impressive, but you could print it way faster with thicker nozzle. Also with a faster printer in general could recude time by 2/3 - most recent printers are way faster than prusa slingers.
And yeah, layers leak water in. So need triple epoxy cover
Thanks man, I was a cheap second hand printer, so I'm very happy that it printed the all the pieces. I used a 6mm nozzle. And looked into speeding up the printing process. But after watching dozens of RUclips tutorials I gave up with the printer settings and just let this Prusa printer do the work.
And the board itself Is water tight I only missed one little spot at one of the finboxes. If I fix that part the board should be watertight.
Would it be faster if u sanded the finish down super fine and put a hydrophobic layer on it. On the bottom only ofcourse. I think the finish on it right now would induce alot of drag
This is how all surfboards are finished, just sanded and polished epoxy or polyester
Ah kombisnelrapide van de praxis 👌 lifesaver
Top spul!
I don't even surf, yet find it very cool !
Haha thanks! Start surfing as soon as possible!
@@Dzjiefoils It didn't accoured to me until the last time I visited the Netherlands this year you can actually do kiting and surfing there. I was sliding waves of New Zealand beaches on the short body board and find it super fun.
I am into rockclimbing and mountaneering. No surfing opportunities in Czechia. But will definatelly think about kiting, windsurfing etc. Would be cool to do it on the Austrian lakes or next time I visit the Netherlands (I go the every year). Cheers
Nice. Rock climbing sounds cool too! Hit me up If you ever want a quick surf lesson in the Netherlands. I can send you to one of the good surfschools
@@Dzjiefoils I will take you up on your offer.
Hey, how are you doing? Been thinking about printing a minikayak for exploration of austrian lakes. Basically a shorter and thicker surfboard.
How are your sessions with the 3D surf long term?
Wow! hace tiempo tengo ganas de hacer esta tabla, y me alegra que hayas podido fabricarla con tan buen resultado!. Voy a mirar tu proceso mas detenidamente para ver que se puede mejorar. No es conveniente ponerle copos nuevos para las quillas? en lugar de usar el alojamiento que viene predeterminado en la impresión. Saludos desde Uruguay!
Thanks for your comment, I tried to translate it with google, but I doesn't really do a good job... Do I understand that you suggest to put regular finboxes in instead of using the weak printed finboxes? If so you are totally right.
And if you want to print this board as well, make sure to read all the comments. There are lots of people here with way more knowledge and skills than me who have given many helpful tips!
@@Dzjiefoils Exactly!, although I think it is fine to use petg for printing, I think it could be a solution to use finbox.
Good waves!
Thanks!
Very Nice! Need to weld (so to speak) fin on with fiberglass rope.
Thanks. Yeah thats whats done in conventional glass on fins, but these are glued into the fcs boxes, so same mechanics as when the finboxscrew would have worked. I chose to not use rope to minimize the weight. But if I’d done it, the board wouldn’t be leaky now!
@@Dzjiefoils Thank You! Hindsight is 20/20. Nice creative job you did! That board looks so Sic!
nice job! looks amazing
Thanks! 🙏
Cost, durability and performance are the gatekeepers.
You could certainly make some really cool looking boards.
getting the right feel/ flex will take a bit of development, I'd imagine.
Was it lighter or heavier than you expected?
Thanks! lots of improvements to make indeed. The plastic structure definitely turned out heavier than expected. Sadly....
Each one of those triangles are CRYING for a RGB LED Light.
Hehe. 😉 that would be awesome
Great job, soooo much work!!!
Thanks very much!
You should see my wooden surfboard. That was even more work!
nicely done. only have to laugh when you have to surf on our mini waves in Scheveningen😂
Yeah Dutch surf sucks!
@@Dzjiefoils nah it looked cool af
Thanks!
So fun! What do you think it is in the shape or size of board that didn't make it as fast as the other boards out there? Would this be better in larger waves?
Thanks! 🙏 I think it will perform better in larger waves, this was just too mushy. I think it’s because the board is pretty heavy and small. It needs a powerful wave to get up to speed, and some more input from the surfer.
You've done an incredible job! I have a question: if you fill the gaps with foam, like the ones used in construction, wouldn't it help it float better?
Thanks! I don't think so. Foam adds weight and air floats best right? I don't know for sure, but this was my logic. And I don't like the looks when the see-through board isn't seethrough anymore.
Great work. Looks great. We are also currently working on two wakesurfers 1x PETG and 1x LW-PLA. LW PLA is not as easy to print as PETG. Did you have any problems with the EOPXY "drops"? Have you tried different EPOXY? We are currently testing other lamination options. In addition, it is not easy with larger extinguishers that the fiberglass does not sag.
I printed the same connections for the individual parts with holes and "bolts". This makes it easier for gluing.
I would have to upload the files, actually wanted to make some videos, currently only have a few photos, may still come.
Great! No epoxy drops because I saturated and the cloth on the table with plastic. I used a squeegee to push out all excess resin before it goes on the plastic structure.
Did you design these boards yourself? I’m looking for someone to design a foil board structure to 3D print.
I think it would be cool to build somthing like this! How much fiber glass and resin did you use? Would you recomend putting in a wooden stringer? Also do you have any ideas on how to seal the leak at the back?
I think I used about 8 metres of fibreglass 70cm wide roll, and 2kg of epoxy. Wooden stringet would make it even heavier and not see-through, so I would stick with fibreglass. I’m gonna fix the hole in the back by putting epoxy on/in it.
@@Dzjiefoils Did you use 4 oz s fiberglass?
6oz