in a lot of respects, it makes me sad-so much time has gone by. I used to build boards back in 1964-1966, in northern California. Seems like a distant dream now. We sure had fun, surfing, hanging out at the beach. Then I joined the Navy, and went away to war. When i got back, the entire world had changed so much it was unrecognizable. But I still catch the occasional wave, on a bodyboard, since I can't bend well anymore (at 75). Keep the faith young ones, keep the traditions strong!
So sick dude, wow. I didn't realize how much work goes into a surfboard, surfboards should really cost like $1,500 with all the labor of love that goes into them..
Building boards with my primitive tools and skills seems ridiculous after watching this video. Still tons of fun surfing your own boards. Thanks for sharing your craft! Really enjoyed it.
hi mate! i´m a huge fan!! I´m shaping since 2016.. started with shaper studios guys and now im doing it for my own on my garage.. thanks for your all videos and tips!!! big hugs from the cold shore of Chile.
amazing ! please keep posting stuff like that, and especially keep explaining what you doing, it's so useful and people nowadays just want to keep things for themselves! super stoked man! cheers
awesome video, I'm on the beggining of my shaping journey and this gave me a lot of insights, like the way you set the first glass layers before placing the fin cups.
Not a shaper, but have built quite a few glass boats. Might want to consider adding a thickener when using resin as a glue. Doesn’t have much mechanical strength as resin, but adding cabosil or milled cotton or any adjunct gives it crazy strength properties.
Thanks for the advice mate. Boats are such a pain to glass. My only concern with this idea is that surfboards need to keep their flex and although impact strength can be a good thing, too much stiffness kills a board. Weight also comes into the equation. Most surfers these days like their boards lighter. For these problems we’re using surfboard specific resins and fibreglass designed to keep the weight down , flex optimal and help the board maintain its “whiteness” 🤘
Just found your channel and so glad I did. Awesome techniques that are different then most of the others on the Tube. Especially pumped to try the tail patch. My last two boards I did by cutting the bottom sheet and draping the top before lam’ing. The came out decent, 2nd was definitely better, but had to work the pin lines to make it more symmetrical. Pumped to try your technique. Awesome content, awesome board 🤙
Thanks man 🤘 Yeh the taped up tail patch trick is good if you want a different colour patch to the clear board. It does add a step but it also makes it super tidy as you just cut it along your tape line and then proceed with the bottom lam. Good luck on the next one and any questions just hit me up 🤙
Hey there ! Nice vid man, like all the others as well. Juste to let you know you should Sand dry worh 240 grit and then 400 grit dry and finaly 400 grit with water. Try it. 🤟
so nice! recently the algorithm presented me to your vids, pretty relaxing! People sometimes come talk to me and say "bro, I know this shaper dude who makes a new surfboard really cheap". I never buy this conversation, specially when seeing the process is very artistic, unique and takes a lot of time and careful hands to do it so... lots of sanding as well! hahah
That's a great design. I'd love to do it being surfed. Been shaping my boards for 4 yrs now. I'm about to do a high performance board (frk fire wire look alike) for 5-8ft + Supers jbay waves. This was very motivational. Tks
Did you choose 6oz (as opposed to 4oz) because the board has no stringer? It was crazy how much the blank flexxed when you were cutting the rail bands. Really well done.
I’ve only surfed it once so far. In massive/wild conditions and it felt good. Was on my backhand too.. Just waiting for some good days here to give to a proper whirl 🤞🏻
Enjoy what your doing, It’s good to see the ins and outs of what generally goes on in a bay. I learnt somethings so cheers Bro, I’ve subscribed and you’ve encouraging me to get back into shaping, but it’ll have to wait as I’m on a yacht. Loving the sub zeros of Tassy . I reckon you captured a lot of what shaping is about with out the scoobs and long necks
@@CodyMadewell make sure you learn to glass and sand as well. These are definitely the most sought after skills in the industry at the moment. Let me know if you need any advice. Yew! 🤙
@@Shrednaught hey mate, what exact product do you use? There are a fair few options in bunnings- dont want to apply the wrong one. As always-thanks for the videos and replies, really appreciate it.
Love your channel and everything about it, recently I have been wanting to get into shaping I was wondering if you could do a video shaping with minimal tools so I could see and follow it. Thanks
Nice work! Hey curious have you ever used epoxy paint for your final coat? Been plying with that over the top of poly boards with good results. How did she surf?? 🤩🏄🏿♀️Be well. Get waves!!🙉
Interesting technique with the sealer coat! Are you using the same resin as the one used for the hotcoat? EDIT: My bad you answer that question below already. Please do a video about it soon ;-)
It’s a concrete sealer. If you’re in Australia I’ll give ya the brand. If not you might need to find something similar located in your neck of the woods.
@@Shrednaught thanks! I did a quick search and concrete sealer indeed came up as an option. Do you use this to primarily protect Posca and paint jobs or as secondary hot coat no matter the finish? Also how is the bond with epoxy?
I use it to protect posca and give the board a nicer overall finish. It hides minor scratches etc: The board will still need to be final sanded proper and completely sealed as this doesn’t seal pinholes. The bond with epoxy is fine. Works with poly as well. It’s just a different form of acrylic. Always do a test before committing to a full board.
I really enjoy these videos, they really show the craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into a custom surfboard. I am guessing that the EPS blank that the board is made from is a generic bought in piece? If as you shape the EPS core of the board you found a void or air bubble in the core would that make it unusable or is the strength coming from the fiberglass and resin?
Thanks mate. These eps foam blanks are a super high density and as of yet I haven’t had one that has had a void. Having said that, voids or small bubbles are not rare in poly blanks and they don’t detract from the strength of the board. If they were large enough to not fill then they would be sent back to the supplier. The strength in the boards comes from the glass and resin 🤙
It depends on how long you leave it. If you get to do the hot coat basically as soon as it’s hard enough to flip ~12hrs then most cases no. Just proceed as normal. If you had to leave the epoxy for a while and came back to it say after a week or two then I’d give it a light scuff. This is using surfboard specific epoxy resin.
Thanks for sharing. From what I can see you are using epoxy from Keyline composites. Do you find that it goes "blotchy" when you do a tint. It sort of looks a bit blotchy in the video but maybe it all comes out in the end?
Yeh mate I’m using keyline epoxy. And honestly it’s one of the best epoxies I’ve used. The blotchy look I think you’re talking about comes from the eps beads. Resin tint with eps is a hard one to achieve consistency. I don’t seal my boards as it doesn’t worry me but if I wanted a super consistent colour I’d probably seal the eps blank and do a spray before laminate 🤙
Great video thanks for sharing. Half way through sanding you apply a sealer coat. Is this another coat of epoxy resin or do you use something else ? Really like the ideal of applying a thin, sealer coat and fine sanding after. Great technique 👍
The logo is printed onto a rice paper. My logos have been printed by a surfboard specific printing company but you can print them yourself at home with a home printer 🤙
Bro! So sick. Keep up the hard work! Just wondering when youre sanding with the Mirka, which is a sweet sander btw, is it RPM adjustable? I use a sander/buffer and the sandpaper discs say to not go over 2800rpm.....I'm only doing poly currently and PU foam. I noticed in another comment you said EPS can be sanded straight up....is that because of the epoxy resin or the EPS foam? And is epoxy resin more sandable than polyester resin? SOrry for all the questions....continual learning approach for me.
Thanks man. Yeh the mirka is adjustable rpm. You’ll see me sanding rail with it and that’s because I drop it down to hardly any spin. Epoxy resin is sandable once cured. Poly resin is sandable after the fill coat with wax otherwise it stays tacky to allow for the next layer to chemically bond. If epoxy is fully cured it needs to be roughed to get a mechanical bond. Poly is generally easier to sand after the fill coat but epoxy is sandable without a fill coat so it’s kinda different Hope that helps 🤙
Thanks mate. I have made these but the one in the video is a store bought one. If you check out some online surfboard supply shops you should be able to find one 🤙
I need advice installing a bow eye in a epoxy foam raven paddle board. I plan to pull it behind a electric recumbent bicycle , with a yeti cooler and some ice and drinks on top while towing, I plan to have two bicycle wheels at the back. I have 4 tie points up front but need a tie point at the very front and it has to be strong. My plan is to either drill a horizontal hole large enough to glue a piece of carbon fiber tube with like a 6" set back from the tip from side to side of the board or drill a long hole at the bow to glue in a stainless eye bolt. Can someone please give me some suggestions please. Thanks
That board looks sick! I really like the free lap look!!! I've been wondering about an EPS blank but thought stringerless would need more laminanations? I also thought they needed vents? Is that only as they get bigger? I'd read so much about how much more hassle EPS is than PU I'd talked myself out of it, but from your tutorial it doesn't look too bad to sand?
Thanks! I do my stringerless eps with 6+6/6 glass so they’re really strong. The benefit is it also adds some weight to reduce the chatter that light eps boards can get. I’ve never used a vent but I don’t leave them in a hot car. Not too sure about air travel. Eps can be more of a challenge to get a clean finish on the foam as the beads are large compared to traditional PU. But it’s not in any way bad, it’s just different. As far as sanding, if you find the right epoxy it’s as easy as poly. I just start with 80grit on epoxy. Both epoxy and poly have their pros and cons .. I could almost write a book. 🤣
Hey have you done a Mini Simmons before? Would that be a board you'd recommend for a novice (2nd board)? Or actually, what would you recommend as an easy (er) board?
@@selwynrowe378 I have done mini Simmons. One of my next videos is a build of a Simmons. As a second board I would suggest something like an egg shape board. Mini Simmons seem easy but they do have a lot going on in a small package. Keep it simple and go with a nice flowing outline, flat bottom and simple fin set up and it’ll be sick. 🤙
@@Shrednaught Oh awesome, I'll look forward to that one! I might tackle a refinement of a 70's Single Fin that I love as a project then? Keep up the good work they're awesome videos!
Thanks man. The final seal coat is a clear acrylic. It doesn’t run too much and is pretty east to clean up if it does get into the boxes but I’ve honestly never had that problem
The reason I do a post lam instal with the futures boxes is because it is a tint on the bottom. Sometimes if you do it pre lam you can’t see and air bubbles around the fin boxes and when you sand them open they open up and look ugly. If it was a clear board I would install pre lam and under glass like normal
The material is a special rice paper from a print shop. You can use normal rice paper but it’s just slightly thicker. I have a couple of small letters I centre off and although there isn’t a stringer there is a glue line I used to get it straight on board.
Thanks for the great vid! I am busy with my board in my spare time which is not enough! So I have a delay of maybe a week or 2 between glassing and seal coat. Do you think that would be a problem. Do you think I should sand the whole board to help it bond?
Is the board poly or epoxy? Either way you will be fine but if it is epoxy you will need to scuff up the glass with 80grit to get a mechanical bond. Poly should be ok
hello, first of all thanks for such important tips, i saw that you use a dust collector in your machines, i'm having great difficulty finding this flexible tube to connect the planer, could you tell me where you found it to buy, what i use is very rigid and ends up getting in the way when shaping. Thank you very much for your attention.
Sick board mate. I’m gonna install my first finboxes on a few handshapes(only done fixed fins prior), and was wondering if you’d recommend doing it before or after lam? Honestly cant figure out what difference it makes.. It’ll be future boxes! Thanks!!
Generally a pre or post lam install is mostly because of tint. When you do a dark resin tint you can’t see the air around the boxes and then if you leave bubbles and sand them open your nice tint looks a bit ragged around the boxes where the air bubbles opened up. If it’s clear then doing it straight into the foam is the way to go
Yeh man it works really well. Use a foam roller and lay it out super flat with no drips. Let it dry and give it a once over with 320 grit to get the dust zits out and it’s super slick.
@@Shrednaught can you please share the brand of acrylic sealer and where to buy. I use spray on in an aerosol but I like the roll on idea. Kind regards david.
Hello. very interesting to watch your work. Please tell me what kind of finishing varnish do you use? alkyd, polyurethane for yachts and flooring or two-component acrylic lacquer for car? thanks.
If my laminate is perfect and sanding on point normally only one ( on a sanded finish board ), but I also do a acrylic sealer as well. I will stop at 320 for sanded finish. It depends on the quality of finish you’re chasing as to whether you go higher and wet rub. For personal boards I don’t bother, but for a purchased board I’ll wet rub.
Hey man, really love the video and your work. I also really love the outline of the board, I'm going to build a new board next week... i can ask were you get your template? Thanks
Thanks man. This board was a template from blending curves. Awesome amount of templates on there. I did change the tail shape though. Or you can download the ishape app. A real easy to use app to make templates. Yew! Good luck
Hey ,i noticed that u didn't put a stringer ,my question is , it's not necessary to put stringer in middle ? And it become strong without it ? Thanks you
It all depends on the board. This is eps foam and is lighter than standard poly boards so I glass it triple 6oz to keep the strength. Strength comes from lap width.
I didn’t realise that it was ok to sand the glass that much?! I thought it was just light sand to cleanup the laps, but don’t go to hard or you’ll weaken the glass
@@James-nj4pc this particular board is epoxy resin so it’s straight up sand-able. But if you’re using poly you can do the same thing you just have to baste the laps with your filler resin to make it easier to sand. I normally do a deck fill coat and push it around the rails and onto the bottom lap to do this 🤘
hey man, after using all of these paths , and layers of 6 onz , how goes the weight ? just to know cuz im using only one layer 6 onz. nice video keep going!
Thanks man. The overall weight is about same as a standard poly of same size. I live and surf in Margaret river and the swell and conditions are usually large and raw, so a super light eps board would only work in the cleaner days here. The additional weight is actually a huge help with keeping the rail engaged. Where abouts are you located/surfing?
@@Shrednaught thanks for answer, maybe thats is the key, the eps, i was thinking about the poly , cuz on my last board i used 6+4/4 onz, and it feels a little heavy (6'3" fish +-42liters), im on canary islands(spain close to africa )
@@wesklol yeh poly does have a slight bit more weight than stringerless eps. You could try a 4/4 lay up on the deck. But this will reduce durability slightly
It’s just a straight shank. But it’s about 4inchs long. I got it from eBay. I run the shank without the cutting edge along my 3mm mdf template and it cuts so perfect and square. As long as your template is perfect, your board outline will be too 🤙
@@Shrednaught Thank you. I did use a cotton first.. And that's exactly what happened. Fell into the sealer.. The sealer is an excellent alternative to spraying.. So a big thank you for sharing your technique.
You have to make sure epoxy isn’t cold because that makes it thicker. Apart from that it’s just making sure you use enough resin to get a good wet out. 🤙
Thanks mate. Yeh tape fins and the sander I use mostly is a mirka deros 5. It has a vacuum attachment which I need as I do f have a dedicated sanding bay. The other is just a stock polisher/sander combo with 4inch hard pad from local hardware
Epoxy can be difficult to get nice consistent colouring. You can seal the blank to fill in any voids and use an epoxy specific tint. Or seal and spray with a eps friendly paint.
In this video I was using eps foam. But I use both eps and pu It depends where you are located. Just do a quick google search for surfboard building supply’s and it should come up with a few places close to your location
Yup eps foam. I don’t fill my eps before lamination. I use a high density foam and try get it as clean as possible. When glassing I always glass on falling temps and baby sit the board in case of any off gassing. 9 times outta 10 it’s all good.
![Surfboard Shaping & Glassing [High-Performance Shortboard]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rYYuDt8Z2cY/mqdefault.jpg)
in a lot of respects, it makes me sad-so much time has gone by. I used to build boards back in 1964-1966, in northern California. Seems like a distant dream now. We sure had fun, surfing, hanging out at the beach. Then I joined the Navy, and went away to war. When i got back, the entire world had changed so much it was unrecognizable. But I still catch the occasional wave, on a bodyboard, since I can't bend well anymore (at 75). Keep the faith young ones, keep the traditions strong!
that's great enjoy bodyboarding sir, you have till 120 young man!
So sick dude, wow. I didn't realize how much work goes into a surfboard, surfboards should really cost like $1,500 with all the labor of love that goes into them..
Thanks man 🤙
Yeh it’s quite a process when doing custom hand made stuff. This was about a weeks worth of work.
Shh don’t let the companies know
That's why we are so grateful to ride.
Yeah we’re grateful enough to ride yeah we don’t need
boards to be 1,500
Building boards with my primitive tools and skills seems ridiculous after watching this video. Still tons of fun surfing your own boards. Thanks for sharing your craft! Really enjoyed it.
That board looks so much fun to ride. Thanks for making this video!
hi mate! i´m a huge fan!! I´m shaping since 2016.. started with shaper studios guys and now im doing it for my own on my garage.. thanks for your all videos and tips!!! big hugs from the cold shore of Chile.
Good stuff mate! Right back at ya from bloody hot Australia 😅
Great job!! Awesome to watch someone so passionate.
Thanks mate 🤙
Great video and awesome work! We need more videos! I reference your channels videos ALL the time!
Thanks mate 🤘 I’ll get some more videos done eventually 😅
amazing ! please keep posting stuff like that, and especially keep explaining what you doing, it's so useful and people nowadays just want to keep things for themselves! super stoked man! cheers
Thanks man 🤙
Love the videos. Right amount of tips and talking, great detail (and commentary) in the right places. Blew my mind with the tie dye glass job
Thanks mate. Appreciate it 🤙
awesome video, I'm on the beggining of my shaping journey and this gave me a lot of insights, like the way you set the first glass layers before placing the fin cups.
Amazing video! Please keep on doing these great contents! 🔝
Thanks 🤙
Great vids brother. Watching them all. Love ya work.
Thanks mate 🍻
Great video, awesome work!! 🤙🏾🤙🏾
Thanks mate 🤙
Not a shaper, but have built quite a few glass boats. Might want to consider adding a thickener when using resin as a glue. Doesn’t have much mechanical strength as resin, but adding cabosil or milled cotton or any adjunct gives it crazy strength properties.
Thanks for the advice mate. Boats are such a pain to glass. My only concern with this idea is that surfboards need to keep their flex and although impact strength can be a good thing, too much stiffness kills a board. Weight also comes into the equation. Most surfers these days like their boards lighter. For these problems we’re using surfboard specific resins and fibreglass designed to keep the weight down , flex optimal and help the board maintain its “whiteness”
🤘
Just found your channel and so glad I did. Awesome techniques that are different then most of the others on the Tube. Especially pumped to try the tail patch. My last two boards I did by cutting the bottom sheet and draping the top before lam’ing. The came out decent, 2nd was definitely better, but had to work the pin lines to make it more symmetrical. Pumped to try your technique. Awesome content, awesome board 🤙
Thanks man 🤘
Yeh the taped up tail patch trick is good if you want a different colour patch to the clear board. It does add a step but it also makes it super tidy as you just cut it along your tape line and then proceed with the bottom lam. Good luck on the next one and any questions just hit me up 🤙
Hey there ! Nice vid man, like all the others as well. Juste to let you know you should Sand dry worh 240 grit and then 400 grit dry and finaly 400 grit with water. Try it. 🤟
awesome build 👍
Cheers mate 🤙
thinking of making a wood board, so thanks for the content. very enlightening!
Good luck mate. They’re another level of craftsmanship 🤙
That surfboard looks good👍How cool❗
Awesome. Sick board and always cool to see everyone’s method to making boards. Keep up the work. Yewwwwwwwww
Thanks mate 🤙
so nice! recently the algorithm presented me to your vids, pretty relaxing! People sometimes come talk to me and say "bro, I know this shaper dude who makes a new surfboard really cheap". I never buy this conversation, specially when seeing the process is very artistic, unique and takes a lot of time and careful hands to do it so... lots of sanding as well! hahah
Good isn’t cheap and cheap isn’t good.
Haha too much sanding man. Glad you enjoyed the vid 🤙
YEWWWW!!! Looks great, mate! Thanks for the video!
🤘🤘
another killer board impressive stuff ////////// its a process thats for sure ////////// cool to watch
Thanks mate. It’s definitely a process that’s for sure. Thanks for watching 🤙
Sei bravo ci metti della passione ❤️🔥 e precisione complimenti 👍
So sick man your board is so clean!
Yew! Thanks dude 🤙
Super. Thank you.
Thanks for your help ! It's very interesting 🔥
No problem!
You deserve my subscription and so much more. I’d love to construct my own board!
Thanks! You should do it. There is a wealth of information to help first time board builders online. 🤙
wow! great Work!
Молодец паренëк! Спасибо!!!
Hard and nice work dude, congrats!!
Thanks man 🤘
Solid job 💯
Thanks 🤙
Amazed !
🤍🤍😱😱🤍🤍🤟
Yew!
@@Shrednaught do you shipping to israel ?
Sorry no
That's a great design. I'd love to do it being surfed. Been shaping my boards for 4 yrs now. I'm about to do a high performance board (frk fire wire look alike) for 5-8ft + Supers jbay waves. This was very motivational. Tks
Good stuff mate. HP boards can be some of the most challenging styles. I have a video coming up where I shape myself a HP quad shortboard. 🤙
@@Shrednaught that's great, I can't wait for it. I've never filmed my process. I'm going to do that this time. Possibly I can share it with you.
Love it!
Did you choose 6oz (as opposed to 4oz) because the board has no stringer? It was crazy how much the blank flexxed when you were cutting the rail bands. Really well done.
You make this look to easy brother haha, I've just started my first blank.
Cheers haha. It all takes time man. Just follow the steps and try your best not to rush! Yew 🤙
man that thing looks fun!
I’ve only surfed it once so far. In massive/wild conditions and it felt good. Was on my backhand too..
Just waiting for some good days here to give to a proper whirl 🤞🏻
Wahoo! That tail with a thruster set just looks interesting to me. I haven’t surfed anything like that. And I’m a sucker for colored rails. Have fun!!
Great videos!
Thanks man 🤙
Great video.
Thanks 🤙
Enjoy what your doing, It’s good to see the ins and outs of what generally goes on in a bay. I learnt somethings so cheers Bro, I’ve subscribed and you’ve encouraging me to get back into shaping, but it’ll have to wait as I’m on a yacht. Loving the sub zeros of Tassy . I reckon you captured a lot of what shaping is about with out the scoobs and long necks
Thanks mate appreciate it. Enjoy the yacht.I know I’d prefer that over a shaping bay any day 🤙
Really good bro.
Thanks dude 🤙
Very cool 😎🤙🏼
Thanks mate 🤙
This was amazing!! Keep up the good work! Your boards are sick af
Thanks dude 🤘
Definitely trying to become a board shaper now
@@CodyMadewell make sure you learn to glass and sand as well. These are definitely the most sought after skills in the industry at the moment. Let me know if you need any advice.
Yew! 🤙
@@Shrednaught thanks dude!!
Hey man loving the videos great work!
Glad to see a free lap
What did you use for the rolled on finish (clear) coat?
Greetings from california
Thanks mate 🤙
The finish roll on is just concrete sealer. Doesn’t fill pin holes but it does provide a super slick finish
@@Shrednaught hey mate, what exact product do you use? There are a fair few options in bunnings- dont want to apply the wrong one. As always-thanks for the videos and replies, really appreciate it.
Think it’s called “ crommelum” or something like that. Spelling is probably wrong.
Serious Skills ❤🩹
Love your channel and everything about it, recently I have been wanting to get into shaping I was wondering if you could do a video shaping with minimal tools so I could see and follow it.
Thanks
Mate! Watched from start to finish. What a craft you have. Amped me up for my Fiji trip in 3 weeks time. Where are you located? Mitch
You should be amped to go to Fiji! I’m in Western Australia. Perth at the moment
So satisfying
Yew!
Nice work! Hey curious have you ever used epoxy paint for your final coat? Been plying with that over the top of poly boards with good results. How did she surf?? 🤩🏄🏿♀️Be well. Get waves!!🙉
I m still looking for a pair of those pants !!!!!!!
Interesting technique with the sealer coat! Are you using the same resin as the one used for the hotcoat? EDIT: My bad you answer that question below already. Please do a video about it soon ;-)
🤘
@@Shrednaught can you share the brand of the sealer in the meantime please?
It’s a concrete sealer. If you’re in Australia I’ll give ya the brand. If not you might need to find something similar located in your neck of the woods.
@@Shrednaught thanks! I did a quick search and concrete sealer indeed came up as an option. Do you use this to primarily protect Posca and paint jobs or as secondary hot coat no matter the finish? Also how is the bond with epoxy?
I use it to protect posca and give the board a nicer overall finish. It hides minor scratches etc:
The board will still need to be final sanded proper and completely sealed as this doesn’t seal pinholes.
The bond with epoxy is fine. Works with poly as well. It’s just a different form of acrylic.
Always do a test before committing to a full board.
I really enjoy these videos, they really show the craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into a custom surfboard. I am guessing that the EPS blank that the board is made from is a generic bought in piece? If as you shape the EPS core of the board you found a void or air bubble in the core would that make it unusable or is the strength coming from the fiberglass and resin?
Thanks mate. These eps foam blanks are a super high density and as of yet I haven’t had one that has had a void. Having said that, voids or small bubbles are not rare in poly blanks and they don’t detract from the strength of the board. If they were large enough to not fill then they would be sent back to the supplier. The strength in the boards comes from the glass and resin 🤙
@@Shrednaught cheers for the detailed response, really insightful.
@@rustymac83 anytime 🤙
After the epoxy lamination, do I need to scuff it for better mechanical bonding with the hot coat? Great job!!!
It depends on how long you leave it. If you get to do the hot coat basically as soon as it’s hard enough to flip ~12hrs then most cases no. Just proceed as normal. If you had to leave the epoxy for a while and came back to it say after a week or two then I’d give it a light scuff. This is using surfboard specific epoxy resin.
This is great. What do you use for a sealer coat?
Am I right in saying that you used 450 ml of resin for your fill coat each side (900 ml in total)? Seems like quite a bit to me.
bro you are so cool
make me one with your sign pleaseee
Haha I appreciate the love man. 🤙
Thanks for sharing. From what I can see you are using epoxy from Keyline composites. Do you find that it goes "blotchy" when you do a tint. It sort of looks a bit blotchy in the video but maybe it all comes out in the end?
Yeh mate I’m using keyline epoxy. And honestly it’s one of the best epoxies I’ve used. The blotchy look I think you’re talking about comes from the eps beads. Resin tint with eps is a hard one to achieve consistency. I don’t seal my boards as it doesn’t worry me but if I wanted a super consistent colour I’d probably seal the eps blank and do a spray before laminate 🤙
Great video thanks for sharing. Half way through sanding you apply a sealer coat. Is this another coat of epoxy resin or do you use something else ? Really like the ideal of applying a thin, sealer coat and fine sanding after. Great technique 👍
It’s an acrylic sealer. I’ll do a full video on it soon I think as it’s the most common question I seem to be getting asked. 🤙
@@Shrednaught thank you
Great vid very helpful. When you put the logo in between the sheets of fibreglass was that just a paper logo or some kind of special material?
The logo is printed onto a rice paper. My logos have been printed by a surfboard specific printing company but you can print them yourself at home with a home printer 🤙
awesome vid bro thanks. whats the final clear coat, another layer of resin or somethign else?
Thanks mate. It’s a final coat of clear acrylic sealer.
ty for vid. what brand/type of roller did you use for that epoxy sealer coat at the end? was it a foam roller or a cloth roller? thks.
Bro! So sick. Keep up the hard work! Just wondering when youre sanding with the Mirka, which is a sweet sander btw, is it RPM adjustable? I use a sander/buffer and the sandpaper discs say to not go over 2800rpm.....I'm only doing poly currently and PU foam. I noticed in another comment you said EPS can be sanded straight up....is that because of the epoxy resin or the EPS foam? And is epoxy resin more sandable than polyester resin?
SOrry for all the questions....continual learning approach for me.
Thanks man.
Yeh the mirka is adjustable rpm. You’ll see me sanding rail with it and that’s because I drop it down to hardly any spin.
Epoxy resin is sandable once cured. Poly resin is sandable after the fill coat with wax otherwise it stays tacky to allow for the next layer to chemically bond. If epoxy is fully cured it needs to be roughed to get a mechanical bond.
Poly is generally easier to sand after the fill coat but epoxy is sandable without a fill coat so it’s kinda different
Hope that helps 🤙
I love your videos. Thanks for posting. Did you invent/make your concave sander? I've never seen them for sale or really anyone else use them.
Thanks mate. I have made these but the one in the video is a store bought one. If you check out some online surfboard supply shops you should be able to find one 🤙
I need advice installing a bow eye in a epoxy foam raven paddle board. I plan to pull it behind a electric recumbent bicycle , with a yeti cooler and some ice and drinks on top while towing, I plan to have two bicycle wheels at the back. I have 4 tie points up front but need a tie point at the very front and it has to be strong. My plan is to either drill a horizontal hole large enough to glue a piece of carbon fiber tube with like a 6" set back from the tip from side to side of the board or drill a long hole at the bow to glue in a stainless eye bolt. Can someone please give me some suggestions please. Thanks
That board looks sick! I really like the free lap look!!! I've been wondering about an EPS blank but thought stringerless would need more laminanations? I also thought they needed vents? Is that only as they get bigger? I'd read so much about how much more hassle EPS is than PU I'd talked myself out of it, but from your tutorial it doesn't look too bad to sand?
Thanks! I do my stringerless eps with 6+6/6 glass so they’re really strong. The benefit is it also adds some weight to reduce the chatter that light eps boards can get. I’ve never used a vent but I don’t leave them in a hot car. Not too sure about air travel.
Eps can be more of a challenge to get a clean finish on the foam as the beads are large compared to traditional PU. But it’s not in any way bad, it’s just different. As far as sanding, if you find the right epoxy it’s as easy as poly. I just start with 80grit on epoxy. Both epoxy and poly have their pros and cons .. I could almost write a book. 🤣
@@Shrednaught Maybe you should!
Hey have you done a Mini Simmons before? Would that be a board you'd recommend for a novice (2nd board)? Or actually, what would you recommend as an easy (er) board?
@@selwynrowe378 I have done mini Simmons. One of my next videos is a build of a Simmons.
As a second board I would suggest something like an egg shape board. Mini Simmons seem easy but they do have a lot going on in a small package. Keep it simple and go with a nice flowing outline, flat bottom and simple fin set up and it’ll be sick. 🤙
@@Shrednaught Oh awesome, I'll look forward to that one! I might tackle a refinement of a 70's Single Fin that I love as a project then? Keep up the good work they're awesome videos!
Great board dude! that coloured free lap looks sick. is you final seal coat epoxy? I see you dont even tape the fin boxes.
Thanks man. The final seal coat is a clear acrylic. It doesn’t run too much and is pretty east to clean up if it does get into the boxes but I’ve honestly never had that problem
@@Shrednaught Thanks for the reply dude! when you say clear acrylic you mean something like lacquer? Cheers
Yeh man.
Awesome. Noticed that you laminate before putting in the fin boxes. Is there an advantage in doing so? Can you do the same with futures?
The reason I do a post lam instal with the futures boxes is because it is a tint on the bottom. Sometimes if you do it pre lam you can’t see and air bubbles around the fin boxes and when you sand them open they open up and look ugly. If it was a clear board I would install pre lam and under glass like normal
you shred the naughty with these boards...great job! what type of pen do you use to write on the finished board? acrylic paint pen?
🤣 I try.. thanks dude
I used posca paint pens. They won’t bleed under sealer or resin as long as they are completely dry.
how are you placing the logo? material that you printed on and how are you centering? it seems like you just place it, which is impressive.
Should have also said great videos thank you for making them.
The material is a special rice paper from a print shop. You can use normal rice paper but it’s just slightly thicker. I have a couple of small letters I centre off and although there isn’t a stringer there is a glue line I used to get it straight on board.
Thanks for the great vid! I am busy with my board in my spare time which is not enough! So I have a delay of maybe a week or 2 between glassing and seal coat. Do you think that would be a problem. Do you think I should sand the whole board to help it bond?
Is the board poly or epoxy? Either way you will be fine but if it is epoxy you will need to scuff up the glass with 80grit to get a mechanical bond. Poly should be ok
@@Shrednaught Yes it is epoxy. Probably going to be 8 days break. Will give it a bit of a sand. Thanks🙏
hello, first of all thanks for such important tips, i saw that you use a dust collector in your machines, i'm having great difficulty finding this flexible tube to connect the planer, could you tell me where you found it to buy, what i use is very rigid and ends up getting in the way when shaping. Thank you very much for your attention.
I bought it from shaper supply online. It was the only place I could find one and the postage killed me but it’s worth it 🤙
Hey mate do you just use normal paper for the logos cheers - ham
Gotta use rice paper mate 🤙
Sick board mate. I’m gonna install my first finboxes on a few handshapes(only done fixed fins prior), and was wondering if you’d recommend doing it before or after lam? Honestly cant figure out what difference it makes.. It’ll be future boxes! Thanks!!
Generally a pre or post lam install is mostly because of tint. When you do a dark resin tint you can’t see the air around the boxes and then if you leave bubbles and sand them open your nice tint looks a bit ragged around the boxes where the air bubbles opened up. If it’s clear then doing it straight into the foam is the way to go
@@Shrednaught cheers!!
Hey man love the craftsmanship you put into these. I haven't seen anyone else roll on that last sealer coat, what goes into that?
Acrylic floor sealer. Just gives it a nice matte silky finish.
@@Shrednaught Huh no shit, wouldn't have ever guessed! I think I'll give it a try on my next board
Yeh man it works really well. Use a foam roller and lay it out super flat with no drips. Let it dry and give it a once over with 320 grit to get the dust zits out and it’s super slick.
@@Shrednaught can you please share the brand of acrylic sealer and where to buy. I use spray on in an aerosol but I like the roll on idea. Kind regards david.
Hey man, love the videos. Was just wondering what type of sealer you used as the last step. Cheers
It’s a clear acrylic flooring sealer
Hello. very interesting to watch your work. Please tell me what kind of finishing varnish do you use? alkyd, polyurethane for yachts and flooring or two-component acrylic lacquer for car? thanks.
Thanks mate.
Flooring 👍
Sick board. What was that black sanding tool you used after planing the concave?
Thanks dude. It’s a concave / convex sanding block. Can set the concave on it and get everything nice and even
Nice! Where did you get your concave sanding block?
How many sealer coats do you use? Do you sand it any lower than 320 and do you have to wet sand or is dry sand(as shown) enough?
If my laminate is perfect and sanding on point normally only one ( on a sanded finish board ), but I also do a acrylic sealer as well.
I will stop at 320 for sanded finish. It depends on the quality of finish you’re chasing as to whether you go higher and wet rub. For personal boards I don’t bother, but for a purchased board I’ll wet rub.
20:41. 1) Is that just epoxy you’re rolling on as the sealer coat? 2) What kind of roller pad are you using?
Clear acrylic sealer. foam roller from hardware store. Super cheap and easy to find
@@Shrednaught Thank you!
Hey man, really love the video and your work. I also really love the outline of the board, I'm going to build a new board next week... i can ask were you get your template?
Thanks
Thanks man. This board was a template from blending curves. Awesome amount of templates on there. I did change the tail shape though. Or you can download the ishape app. A real easy to use app to make templates.
Yew! Good luck
@@Shrednaught thanks
Hey ,i noticed that u didn't put a stringer ,my question is , it's not necessary to put stringer in middle ? And it become strong without it ? Thanks you
It all depends on the board. This is eps foam and is lighter than standard poly boards so I glass it triple 6oz to keep the strength. Strength comes from lap width.
@@Shrednaught thank you so much
very nice. was the final sealer a concrete sealer?
Cheers mate.
Yup that’s the one 👌
I didn’t realise that it was ok to sand the glass that much?! I thought it was just light sand to cleanup the laps, but don’t go to hard or you’ll weaken the glass
What section of the video are you referencing mate?
@@Shrednaught around 9:55 to about 10:30. Not criticising at all, I’m still learning.
@@James-nj4pc I’m sanding my laps flush In prep for the fill coat. As long as you don’t sand them away completely..
🤙
@@Shrednaught Ahhh gotcha. How do you stop the resin from gumming up the sandpaper?
@@James-nj4pc this particular board is epoxy resin so it’s straight up sand-able. But if you’re using poly you can do the same thing you just have to baste the laps with your filler resin to make it easier to sand. I normally do a deck fill coat and push it around the rails and onto the bottom lap to do this 🤘
hey man, after using all of these paths , and layers of 6 onz , how goes the weight ? just to know cuz im using only one layer 6 onz. nice video keep going!
Thanks man. The overall weight is about same as a standard poly of same size. I live and surf in Margaret river and the swell and conditions are usually large and raw, so a super light eps board would only work in the cleaner days here. The additional weight is actually a huge help with keeping the rail engaged.
Where abouts are you located/surfing?
@@Shrednaught thanks for answer, maybe thats is the key, the eps, i was thinking about the poly , cuz on my last board i used 6+4/4 onz, and it feels a little heavy (6'3" fish +-42liters), im on canary islands(spain close to africa )
@@wesklol yeh poly does have a slight bit more weight than stringerless eps. You could try a 4/4 lay up on the deck. But this will reduce durability slightly
Awesome work! what router bit did you use for the leash plug?
It’s just a straight shank. But it’s about 4inchs long. I got it from eBay. I run the shank without the cutting edge along my 3mm mdf template and it cuts so perfect and square. As long as your template is perfect, your board outline will be too 🤙
@@Shrednaught Thanks!
Hi Shrednaught.. Just wondering if you are using a short cotton nap or sponge to roll on your sealer? Thank you
Foam. Cotton drops all the pieces Into the sealer
@@Shrednaught Thank you. I did use a cotton first.. And that's exactly what happened. Fell into the sealer..
The sealer is an excellent alternative to spraying.. So a big thank you for sharing your technique.
All good mate. Just make sure you get the higher density foam/ better quality ones.
Good luck 🤙
From what material is the logo you always put beneath the cloth?
Hi. Please tell me, by what means do you cover the board at the very end? Is it varnish?
Yeh mate, it’s a clear acrylic sealer. Just roll it on and give it a light sand with high grit and it’s good to go
How do you get your laps to wet out so nicely with epoxy? I always have trouble getting them to fully saturate
You have to make sure epoxy isn’t cold because that makes it thicker. Apart from that it’s just making sure you use enough resin to get a good wet out. 🤙
great job man! have you seal by reson?
Thanks 🤘
The final seal coat is just a concrete sealer. Not for filling pinholes just for providing a slick finish 🤙
killer video do you tape fins to set? what is the sander your'e using?type of pad on sander? thanks
Thanks mate. Yeh tape fins and the sander I use mostly is a mirka deros 5. It has a vacuum attachment which I need as I do f have a dedicated sanding bay. The other is just a stock polisher/sander combo with 4inch hard pad from local hardware
S a l o m o n sliman larach good dezayner 11,10
how many boards could you make in a week?
What is the sealer coat made of? Iam from argentina
Any tips on getting a solid single color using epoxy?
Epoxy can be difficult to get nice consistent colouring. You can seal the blank to fill in any voids and use an epoxy specific tint. Or seal and spray with a eps friendly paint.
hey I
was just wondering what foam your using and where i would be abled to purchase some as i'm interested in making a board
In this video I was using eps foam. But I use both eps and pu
It depends where you are located. Just do a quick google search for surfboard building supply’s and it should come up with a few places close to your location
Is that EPS? Do you fill it with anything before lam?
Yup eps foam. I don’t fill my eps before lamination. I use a high density foam and try get it as clean as possible. When glassing I always glass on falling temps and baby sit the board in case of any off gassing. 9 times outta 10 it’s all good.
What are you doing with all these boards