To my RUclips friends, PLEASE TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THIS OFFER!! Sign up for the 14 day free trial on ScannerDanner Premium, then cancel immediately so you won't be charged at the end of the trial, and you will still get the remainder of your 14 days. This will give you time to watch both the 2 part series on this Lexus and then also the case study on what was causing the weird additional square wave patterns on our demo vehicle used in this video. The links to these videos are provided in the description of this video. For the free trial, you will still need to sign up using PayPal because at the end of the trial your account is automatically converted into a paid subscription and you'll be charged $11. To prevent this, again, just subscribe for the free trial, then after your successful subscription, go back to your PayPal account, under recurring payments, and cancel your SD Premium subscription. This will prevent your account from being charged at the end of the 14 days and will still allow you access to EVERYTHING on SD Premium for the remainder of the 14 day period. If you have any trouble at all, email me at support@scannerdanner.com My wife and I handle our customers personally!! Thank you all so much and Merry Christmas!
My favorite class while in high school was Auto shop. I had a great teacher, Mr. Smith. Not only did he have a great auto repair class, he was instrumental in my staying in school. I was a terrible student. I was not disruptive, I just didn't care. He took the time to convince me to do better. He also got me a job in the automotive repair industry (a tune up shop) and that experience was the difference it took in my life to pursue more in life and to accel in anything I did. The reason I share this is because there is not doubt that one of those kids out there is going to remember your class and create a "spark" in their lives.
Great teaches make a great difference. Sometimes it's just a matter of paying attention and caring that the student understands what the teacher is trying to get across. I was bored most of the time and some of the time in another world, so when I was called on I could usually give the right answer. If I didn't know the answer then I would cut up the class. Class clown I guess. The good teachers saw through the act. One teacher that I really liked told me that she was disappointed in me. That hurt and inspired me to pay attention and focus. Kids want attention. Good or bad they want attention. The job of parents and teachers is to see to it that kids get good attention. Professor Danner is one of the great teachers.
"high" school, I went to the "career center", which they just renamed from (joint vocational) sure you can guess why that was :)))) yeah I was kind of teachers pet, I did things right and repaired lots of lab equipment which the previous years and other fools burnt up. the computer/electronic teacher came in and asked me why I wasn't in that course and all but begged me to change. I am happy knowing I helped some of my own fellow classmates along, while learning some "skilled details". About half of the friends I had from that ERA have OD'd and are long gone (1995 to current). I am sure some are rich business owners now and recall my nutty self helping them :)) ( perhaps a pipe dream or is it reality) I won't say nor give names ;)
Hi Danner. I had this exact same issue about 5 years ago. Mine was on a Taco with a 3.4L The COF was an improperly torqued crankshaft bolt. This is why you have play on the shaft between the balancer and crankshaft. Someone did a timing belt and didn't torque the crank bolt properly. Everything was able to move around and it hammered the drive gears keyway. I was only able to verify it with my Pico. Thanks for the great video channel!
This happened many years ago on an inline six cylinder Ford car I owned. One day at 70 MPH the hot light light up on the dash. I stopped and checked it over and found nothing wrong except the car was running hot. After having the radiator flushed twice, removing the thermostat and removing the water pump to look for a bad propeller, I could find no problem. As time went buy it would give me a hot light at 60 MPH, then 50. As long as I didn't push it the light stayed out. I started thinking lean mixture but one day on my way to work the car stopped. My brother was the ace mechanic of the family and I was pretty good at turning wrenches myself. My cousin was a Ford trained mechanic and my dad didn't know. I called my grandfather at his blacksmith shop in 84 Pennsylvania and he told me to pull the timing gear, when I did ithere was a sheared woodruff key. It cost 25 cents to fix the car and it never overheated again. I'm surprised the car in your shop didn't have some other issues besides brakes.
Paul. I know you don't like to use a vacuum gauge, but seeing you use it in your teaching to find late valve timing makes me like the video even more. I am a big fan of you, and I always look forward to your videos.
I'm keeping this as a reference. Thankyou for this. I had a similar problem with a 454 or 7.4L GM V8 about 20 years ago. NO scope back then, all I wanted to do is remove the front cover to check the crank gear and compare it to the old engine. I'm sure it would have been a problem, but my Supervisor said no. Oh well. Water under the bridge!
Absolutely love this video, just fought with an 06 3.5l kia. Truly wished I had a pico. The crank sensor toner wheel had broke loose and was free spooling. 4hrs later of tear down to find. The car would run great then begin spitting and back firing. Definitely a diagnostic nightmare as the toner wheel would catch and show perfect wave forms on my modis. Thank scanner danner! Pico has been added to the tool list.
Good stuff Professor. Maybe for awhile it would jump ahead and come back and be okay. Yeah years ago I worked on a six cylinder Econoline that would intermittently stop running or fail to start. I would get there and it would fire up. My friend changed the points, condenser, and coil and it still stalled intermittently. I pulled the cover to look at the timing gears and while there was slop because of age, the engine should have started. I pulled the distributor and looked at the gear and it looked good. One of the timing gears was nylon so my friend asked me to change it for him. After doing so it fired up every time I tried it. My friend picked it up and in a short while told me he was broke down on the road so I went to his rescue. Not getting spark so I brought number one to TDC and pulled the cap and it was not on number one. Pulled the distributor again and this time was able to get the gear to move. The roll pin has worn a slot in the nylon gear and every once in awhile it would make it out of the hole in the gear to slide around and lodge back on and be one hundred and eight out. Lesson learned. Good video guys.
Scanner Danner premium is well worth the money! It is a great learning tool. My in cylinder pressure will be here next month so this is a timely video for me! Thanks Paul.
Interesting thought on cam and crank correlation- the crank sensor reads off of crank gear, not the crank shaft. Since the t- belt didn't jump a tooth, the cam/crank correlation is still reading correct even though the crank gear slipped back 25 deg. The scope test could show you what the scanner couldn't. A very valuable tool to have for engine/drivability diag.
Awesome Duo, Love you guy's, stay Blessed😎👍 Remarkable work that you share with your audience, this knowledge is not available anywhere else, Thank you for supporting guy's like myself 👍
Looks like two issues: Poor design, key only contacts about a quarter of the gear and as somebody else said the bolt probably was not tight enough. Another great video and learning experience. Thanks
I noticed the key contact area being very small in comparison to the keyway length of the pulley also. I'm wondering if the proper key was used initially? Should it not have been in full contact with the pulley or maybe the keyway in the crank didn't match the pulley keyway?
@@Watchyn_Yarwood if it was properly clamped tight between the crank pulley and crank flange, that shouldn't have happened. my guess, someone replaced the timing belt right around 100K and never cleaned, torqued and replaced the balancer bolt if it calls for it. it would rattle around severely due to the valves/cams, also could be it was torqued close but the tension was wrong or tensioner failing, all sorts of wild harmonics and belt dancing can occur, when too loose or too tight
The main reason you see a gear slip like this is because the crank bolt isn't replaced and or torqued properly. I have little doubt a timing belt was installed in the past and the job was not done correctly. this kind of wear takes time to occur.
The transistor is an NPN needs a positive pulse to conduct also when it does not get the signal transistor is in cut off no conduction that means that the coil will now produce a collapsing field and giving a spark I like how you explain things
For me the WPS500 is a beautifull tool because this tool give many information in an only picture but is more expensive, thanks for share that Paul and Cabeb a big hug for both .
The cause of the timing belt crank pulley shift, was due to the last technician that performed the timing belt service, under torque the crank pulley bolt.
As the timing over time regards w/ware, the engine vaccum also slowly drop until it gets to the point that it's not enough to support the brake booster, 15 to 14 inches of vaccum, more inclined towards 15...
Hey Paul. Thanks for a free premium content again. It is like fresh air breath for us guys from developing countries. I really liked the way how you tried to impress and hold an atention of these mad high school students. I have a quick question for you Paul. When you did in cylinder pressure test, you have unpluged the coil. And you also took that coil control as a synch for your test. I am thinking since the coil is unpluged and a DTC for that coil cuircut is made, have you ever seen a PCM to shut down a control of that circuit? I think it is just theoretical question, but maybe possible?
Thank you! And yes, a DTC will be set, but the PCM will not disable spark on a coil during CRANKING, only during running when it senses a misfire will it perform cylinder shut-down, but even then, it is the injector that is shut down never the ignition coil (I shouldn't say never, I have just never seen an ignition coil deactivated)
Great video Paul! By any chance, did you grab an ignition sync while looking at the in cylinder waveform, on the lexus? I imagine this failure would really throw off the ignition timing. Also, do you remember if the crank bolt was loose? The only time I have seen this was after a timing belt was replaced, and the crank bolt wasn't torqued down.
It is the one thing I could have done better in this review. I showed the demo vehicle with an ignition timing event taking place at 10 degrees BTDC and totally forgot to show the RX 330 with a 27 degrees ATDC signal. smh. I was being pushed for time. The original case study shows absolutely everything. The crank bolt was not loose but I do not know how tight is was as my students took the pulley off.
ScannerDanner the shift in valve timing was more than enough to make the call. I was just curious about how it would effect the ignition timing. Again, Great video!
Looking at the picture, the key way is almost exactly 1 tooth off, its the equivalent of jumping the belt 1 full tooth. With an interference engine, or a zero tolerance engine, they are lucky no valves are bent. Jealous of the pico transducer. I got creative and built my own transducer. I have the Vantage pro, so i can power the transducer off of the scope. But man that pico transducer is nice.
When I see that pic of the damaged keyway, I wonder why is the key not all the way into the keyway. The damage only extends a very short distance into the keyway, I think that might be the cause of the original fault developing over time. My guess is this balancer and toothed pulley has been removed at some time and the key was not reinstalled correctly.
Damn...looks like you have to question everything. I had a similar problem with a car that ran perfectly but just had no power. Everything looked good on the scope but it would only do 40 with floor to the pedal. I took it to my dad and he figured it out literally in 10 seconds. He asked me "Who hung that 3000 pound anchor to your bumper?"
Hey Danner, where you explain the expansion stroke. What would the waveform look like if you had a power stroke with the transducer installed? Would you have way more pressure than the compression stroke or is pressure in the cylinder the highest during compression? Dont know if you reply to videos this old but these are gems.
I've seen some guys attempt it and from what I've seen it's just not a useful waveform. Too many variables. Especially when the variables are already many just with the regular in cylinder testing
is there belt inspection holes in the top covers? could you see the timing alignment marks? if yes, then a dial indicator in spark plug hole would work by showing the valve timing was way offset to crank location. heck, even a screwdriver carefully held/watched while aligning the marks. assuming it uses the standard practice of #1 TDC compression stroke for alignment. of course that's how everyone used to do things before the fang-dangled computer cruft
Dear Paul As a long time viewer of your lectures I think I can also add some criticism: I have used the WPS500 for over 2 years and listened to J. Thorntons lectures too and there is one thing that bugs me. John mentioned that exhaust valve opening is between 30-60degrees before BBDC, please dump those numbers and just compare what you measure with manufacturers spec for the correct valve opening time for that specific car, everything else is just guessing. I had my 1964 Jaguar run like sh..t and measured it and valve opening was at 36 BBDC now according to Johns numbers it would be within specs but the manual specified 56 BBDC, so you see how far off one can be with an estimated value. Now the Jag purrs like a kitten. Greetings from Germany and keep up the good work. Bernhard
John Thornton is very careful to say 30-60 BBDC is a window or guideline for most engines' EVO. I purchased or attended all his courses on this subject. He has always said: EVO can be in the window and be bad, or outside the window and be good. He always says find a spec in service information if you can, and test or find a known good if you can.
No, you were right the first time. I do have a data capture of this event and it was around 27 degrees after top dead center that the spark was occurring. According to the computer it was right on, but mechanically it was not. All of this is in the original case study. You should check it out. I know you will like it
A possible cause for the crank pulley that shifted could be a high resistance of the valvetrain, increasing the load on the crank gear. Maybe an issue with tight valvesprings, or a bent valve? I realize extreme issues would cause leakdown issues though. Just a thought. Maybe a water pump that's starting to seize if it's driven by the timing belt?
I have only used the Snap-on 500 psi transducer with the Verus and I was not very impressed with it but in their defense, I believe it was the transducer that was the issue, not the scope. There is also a difference in how you acquire long time bases for good detail. But it is a very capable scope too and with the right transducer I think it would be okay.
interesting video Paul, Question could vibration have been an issue in causing that to happen to the keyway, could one or both of the Cog or key have been replaced at some stage before or could there have been excess wearing of the crankshaft around the Cog/keyway on the crankshaft have been the issue an cause of the Failure,? or maybe Metal Fatigue in the Keyway its self have been the issue?
Not completely sure of the cause, loose crank bolt at some point in time most likely. The original two part series is definitely worth the watch. Sign up and then cancel your subscription immediately and you won't be charged and you'll still get the remainder of the 14 days
Yes!, Video is linked in the description of this video. Thanks! You'll need to be a premium member to see it. See my pinned comment above about that. It won't cost you a dime if you do what I suggest.
@@ScannerDanner I don't do really do much internal engine work but I really don't know really the "limit" on any given engine. Especially chain engines that wear the chain or have broken guides and the chain jumps time.
Got a question on a vehicle scanner danner. I got a crank no start situation. 1996 Dodge Grand caravan. Fuel is to spec no spark but put new coil pack new camshafts sensors tried to see if the problem still no spark or start just cranking
It was in ref to you had graft up and you said let’s see if we can get it to run so you could a better look and before that you had unplugged the fuel pump relay and I didn’t noticed if you had plugged it back in. I enjoy watching your videos, so carry on.
The crankshaft pulley bolt was not at proper torque which will cause your crank gear to walk in the keyway. Somebody probably didn't have a way to hold crank pulley and torque it at it's proper torque or didn't have a impact wrench.
My mom's 4.2l trailblazer has a weird issue, fuel trims and running is good but at idle at a stop light I'll get a random rough decrease of rpm and the trailblazer shakes a little but on my live data when that happens it goes from perfect fuel trims to -19 stft and the timing advance at the exact same time jumps from normal idle number to a lot higher I think like over 30 or 40. Any ideas? No check engine light and only thing that looks off is the timing advance number and the high negative fuel trim happening simultaneously.
Is there any way my son and I can meet you?? He lives just south of Pittsburgh and I'm coming to visit next weekend for the week. He's in Auto tech at his high school and would be an honor to introduce you to him
Because the crank gear also contains the crankshaft position sensor trigger wheel or reluctor, so when it shifted, it shifted in coordination with the camshafts, keeping the relationships exactly in time. But mechanically, the crankshaft itself was about 25 degrees in front of the cams (late timing)
lol, you mean for why it wasn't starting? This truck had electronic throttle body codes and I have a case study on this listed in the description. Thanks!
i like you teaching it lot better that we had in the 70.but are exame for working card at the end of the year was doing timing on the engin by valve timing with no mark on cam or crank it was done by piston one at top center and the valve position. i wonder if they still do that test
@@ScannerDanner It has been my experience that with crank pully bolts ~ Those that use a 1.25 thread pitch will frequently gaul, bind up, and reach torque prior to actually tightenting firmly on the crank. I have not seen this issue as prevalent on 1.50 pitch threads. 1990's Suzuki Sidekick / Geo Tracker / Mazda vehicles were famous for this. I have since moved away from loctite and moved to cleaning thread bore with a bottoming tap adding light oil and bottoming the bolt for depth test and then install with proper torque.
lol at "pharts" electrical noise, that's **induction/back EMF**, from a bad secondary plug/coil/wiring to ecm or faulty ground. a bad ground looks/is worse the further "upstream" distance from ground source, say ground is bad(chrysler anyone LOL) the resistance is high there, but the other component in circuit may/likely have reverse polarity(anti-spike) diodes in parallel. the diodes failing would/cause huge back pulses to ECM/PCM and death of it or ignition control module in older vehicles( often tiny capacitor built into the ICM) think ignition points condenser(capacitor) OK, I should just shut up about it, since this is not *mechanical/electronic/etc. engineering courses, but it SHOULD be, for they have blurred the lines by pushing too much trash upstream. signed tired of the blue dunces, whom keep proving to me and all their brilliance ( none is perfect, but for god sake TRY)
I don't understand .if the crankshaft sensor reads form crankshaft "gear" it will make sense that didn't show any timing problem since the timing between crankshaft gear and camshaft is the same,otherwise it will throw a dtc .could you explain plz?
Why retarded ign. timing is lowering intake vacuum? Is this bacause the PISTON is already moving a little downwards in the cylinder on it's own , before the flame front actually start pushing on it? And from there comes lack of - 1.Power 2.Vacuum? I've been asking that question for some time and have developed this statement by myself.Please answer !
late spark = late firing = late and incomplete burn into the exhaust stroke, which = less intake scavenging due to no negative pressure by exhaust-flow "pulling it into cylinder" (the exhaust flow going out port/manifold didn't help/create a vacuum to pull new fuel and air back into the cylinder at intake stroke start) this is where camshaft timing's come into play, header's back-pressure and more.. it's a balance of many factors, to much scavenging and you'll pull the fuel/air charge right back out of the cylinder into the exhaust where it is clearly useless , unless you like to "roll coal"(diesel derp's or have exhaust flame pops or torches for the gas guys. alternately is just fogging out the folks behind you) but what do I know, common folk like you and most all of us humans
@@throttlebottle5906 I will also add for @Petar, that with late valve timing, the piston is already pulling down into the cylinder BEFORE the intake valve opens and so the "intake pull" (or vacuum) will be reduced.
Can it be because of a crankshaft ,pulley decalibration or alternator clutch pulley blocked ? To my car, crankshaft transmission belt pulley was decalibrated, and because of that the bolt start to lose and the timing pulley has started to make play, and at the end my crankshaft become decalibrated because i did not change the pulley in time.
I disagree 100%, sure we won't be doing in-cylinder timing analysis but electricity and electronic troubleshooting will continue as it is and as it has been since we started using it in cars :-)
@@ScannerDanner No in cylinder pressure testing and timing analysis, but I am sure the can bus will survive in some form in the future and with it all its' problems and diagnosis. Not to mention electric motor and battery testing and their respective control electronics.
The "odd" drop in the red trace DID NOT follow the other patterns. It's timing varied in relation to compression/spark signal... I suspect that it's source is NOT cam or crank related. Whatever is causing it is at a completely unrelated frequency comared to engine revolutions...
that is correct, completely separate issue! We have that video case study too, it is linked in the description of this video. Thanks! Even if you sign up for premium for the free trial and then cancel immediately, you will still get the remainder of your 14 days. This will give you time to watch both the 2 part series on this Lexus and then also the case study on what was causing the weird additional square wave patterns on our demo vehicle in the room.
To my RUclips friends, PLEASE TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THIS OFFER!!
Sign up for the 14 day free trial on ScannerDanner Premium, then cancel immediately so you won't be charged at the end of the trial, and you will still get the remainder of your 14 days. This will give you time to watch both the 2 part series on this Lexus and then also the case study on what was causing the weird additional square wave patterns on our demo vehicle used in this video. The links to these videos are provided in the description of this video.
For the free trial, you will still need to sign up using PayPal because at the end of the trial your account is automatically converted into a paid subscription and you'll be charged $11. To prevent this, again, just subscribe for the free trial, then after your successful subscription, go back to your PayPal account, under recurring payments, and cancel your SD Premium subscription. This will prevent your account from being charged at the end of the 14 days and will still allow you access to EVERYTHING on SD Premium for the remainder of the 14 day period. If you have any trouble at all, email me at support@scannerdanner.com My wife and I handle our customers personally!! Thank you all so much and Merry Christmas!
My favorite class while in high school was Auto shop. I had a great teacher, Mr. Smith. Not only did he have a great auto repair class, he was instrumental in my staying in school. I was a terrible student. I was not disruptive, I just didn't care. He took the time to convince me to do better. He also got me a job in the automotive repair industry (a tune up shop) and that experience was the difference it took in my life to pursue more in life and to accel in anything I did. The reason I share this is because there is not doubt that one of those kids out there is going to remember your class and create a "spark" in their lives.
we have almost identical stories from high school auto mechanics class lol
Great teaches make a great difference. Sometimes it's just a matter of paying attention and caring that the student understands what the teacher is trying to get across. I was bored most of the time and some of the time in another world, so when I was called on I could usually give the right answer. If I didn't know the answer then I would cut up the class. Class clown I guess. The good teachers saw through the act. One teacher that I really liked told me that she was disappointed in me. That hurt and inspired me to pay attention and focus. Kids want attention. Good or bad they want attention. The job of parents and teachers is to see to it that kids get good attention. Professor Danner is one of the great teachers.
"high" school, I went to the "career center", which they just renamed from (joint vocational) sure you can guess why that was :))))
yeah I was kind of teachers pet, I did things right and repaired lots of lab equipment which the previous years and other fools burnt up. the computer/electronic teacher came in and asked me why I wasn't in that course and all but begged me to change. I am happy knowing I helped some of my own fellow classmates along, while learning some "skilled details".
About half of the friends I had from that ERA have OD'd and are long gone (1995 to current). I am sure some are rich business owners now and recall my nutty self helping them :))
( perhaps a pipe dream or is it reality) I won't say nor give names ;)
@@throttlebottle5906 Teachers pet????? you???? ummm...ok if you say so! somehow I figured you were more like me, teachers PITA!
@@TheDisgruntledMechanic "rotten pets" are a thing lol
Hi Danner. I had this exact same issue about 5 years ago.
Mine was on a Taco with a 3.4L
The COF was an improperly torqued crankshaft bolt.
This is why you have play on the shaft between the balancer and crankshaft.
Someone did a timing belt and didn't torque the crank bolt properly.
Everything was able to move around and it hammered the drive gears keyway.
I was only able to verify it with my Pico. Thanks for the great video channel!
The only channel on RUclips that is fun to watch. Thank you Danner family
This happened many years ago on an inline six cylinder Ford car I owned. One day at 70 MPH the hot light light up on the dash. I stopped and checked it over and found nothing wrong except the car was running hot. After having the radiator flushed twice, removing the thermostat and removing the water pump to look for a bad propeller, I could find no problem. As time went buy it would give me a hot light at 60 MPH, then 50. As long as I didn't push it the light stayed out. I started thinking lean mixture but one day on my way to work the car stopped. My brother was the ace mechanic of the family and I was pretty good at turning wrenches myself. My cousin was a Ford trained mechanic and my dad didn't know. I called my grandfather at his blacksmith shop in 84 Pennsylvania and he told me to pull the timing gear, when I did ithere was a sheared woodruff key. It cost 25 cents to fix the car and it never overheated again. I'm surprised the car in your shop didn't have some other issues besides brakes.
It did. You'll have to watch the actual 2 part series on this to see but it had a low power complaint.
Paul. I know you don't like to use a vacuum gauge, but seeing you use it in your teaching to find late valve timing makes me like the video even more. I am a big fan of you, and I always look forward to your videos.
We are privileged to have Paul's class here on RUclips and on his website. Old mechanics could only dream to such resources!
Thanks Paul! 🙏
Thank you Nick!
We had no internet or Paul Danner back in the 70's!
I'm keeping this as a reference. Thankyou for this. I had a similar problem with a 454 or 7.4L GM V8 about 20 years ago. NO scope back then, all I wanted to do is remove the front cover to check the crank gear and compare it to the old engine. I'm sure it would have been a problem, but my Supervisor said no. Oh well. Water under the bridge!
Absolutely love this video, just fought with an 06 3.5l kia. Truly wished I had a pico. The crank sensor toner wheel had broke loose and was free spooling. 4hrs later of tear down to find. The car would run great then begin spitting and back firing. Definitely a diagnostic nightmare as the toner wheel would catch and show perfect wave forms on my modis. Thank scanner danner! Pico has been added to the tool list.
I vote for the loose bolt theory. Thanks for the video.
Ah, a nice relaxing Sunday watching Paul Danner in his natural habitat. Love it brother.
"It's good to have as many tools as possible."-As the collection of tools in my basement would attest to! Thanks for the affirmation.
Good stuff Professor.
Maybe for awhile it would jump ahead and come back and be okay. Yeah years ago I worked on a six cylinder Econoline that would intermittently stop running or fail to start. I would get there and it would fire up. My friend changed the points, condenser, and coil and it still stalled intermittently. I pulled the cover to look at the timing gears and while there was slop because of age, the engine should have started. I pulled the distributor and looked at the gear and it looked good. One of the timing gears was nylon so my friend asked me to change it for him. After doing so it fired up every time I tried it. My friend picked it up and in a short while told me he was broke down on the road so I went to his rescue. Not getting spark so I brought number one to TDC and pulled the cap and it was not on number one. Pulled the distributor again and this time was able to get the gear to move. The roll pin has worn a slot in the nylon gear and every once in awhile it would make it out of the hole in the gear to slide around and lodge back on and be one hundred and eight out. Lesson learned. Good video guys.
Scanner Danner premium is well worth the money! It is a great learning tool. My in cylinder pressure will be here next month so this is a timely video for me! Thanks Paul.
Thanks Mike!
Thank you Paul and Caleb. Great job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Interesting thought on cam and crank correlation- the crank sensor reads off of crank gear, not the crank shaft. Since the t- belt didn't jump a tooth, the cam/crank correlation is still reading correct even though the crank gear slipped back 25 deg. The scope test could show you what the scanner couldn't. A very valuable tool to have for engine/drivability diag.
it make sense now
Awesome Duo, Love you guy's, stay Blessed😎👍
Remarkable work that you share with your audience, this knowledge is not available anywhere else, Thank you for supporting guy's like myself 👍
Dang and the Professor can juggle two2 classes at the same time all the while on the clock.
Nice Professor. Happy Motoring.
Thanks man, not easy sometimes.
Well you make it look easy.
Enjoy the Lord's day.
Looks like two issues: Poor design, key only contacts about a quarter of the gear and as somebody else said the bolt probably was not tight enough. Another great video and learning experience. Thanks
someone didn't follow "proper torque day" or they reused a bolt that stretches/need replaced..
I noticed the key contact area being very small in comparison to the keyway length of the pulley also. I'm wondering if the proper key was used initially? Should it not have been in full contact with the pulley or maybe the keyway in the crank didn't match the pulley keyway?
@@Watchyn_Yarwood if it was properly clamped tight between the crank pulley and crank flange, that shouldn't have happened.
my guess, someone replaced the timing belt right around 100K and never cleaned, torqued and replaced the balancer bolt if it calls for it. it would rattle around severely due to the valves/cams, also could be it was torqued close but the tension was wrong or tensioner failing, all sorts of wild harmonics and belt dancing can occur, when too loose or too tight
Will watch the SDP lectures 👍🏻 Tonight . Keep up the good work !
The main reason you see a gear slip like this is because the crank bolt isn't replaced and or torqued properly. I have little doubt a timing belt was installed in the past and the job was not done correctly. this kind of wear takes time to occur.
never thought an oscilloscope would provide such interesting viewing. Farting would also show as a pressure wave via smelloscope. Best reality show.
I never liked way people test cats keep up the good work
The transistor is an NPN needs a positive pulse to conduct also when it does not get the signal transistor is in cut off no conduction that means that the coil will now produce a collapsing field and giving a spark I like how you explain things
Merry Christmas to you and Caleb! Great videos!!
Thank you learning a lot from your videos. Watch 1 or 2 a day
Awesome, thank you
Thank u mr danner and caleb,u guys are the best👍
Good video. Good editing. You’re on fire bro.
The original 2 part series is much much better, but thank you!
Man awesome video. Great explanation on your procedures. Thks again.
For me the WPS500 is a beautifull tool because this tool give many information in an only picture but is more expensive, thanks for share that Paul and Cabeb a big hug for both .
KNOWLEDGEABLE Sir ScannerDanner
Amazing tutorial ❤ it 👌
Thank you very much helpful video
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
The cause of the timing belt crank pulley shift, was due to the last technician that performed the timing belt service, under torque the crank pulley bolt.
As the timing over time regards w/ware, the engine vaccum also slowly drop until it gets to the point that it's not enough to support the brake booster, 15 to 14 inches of vaccum, more inclined towards 15...
Hey Paul. Thanks for a free premium content again. It is like fresh air breath for us guys from developing countries.
I really liked the way how you tried to impress and hold an atention of these mad high school students.
I have a quick question for you Paul. When you did in cylinder pressure test, you have unpluged the coil. And you also took that coil control as a synch for your test. I am thinking since the coil is unpluged and a DTC for that coil cuircut is made, have you ever seen a PCM to shut down a control of that circuit? I think it is just theoretical question, but maybe possible?
Thank you!
And yes, a DTC will be set, but the PCM will not disable spark on a coil during CRANKING, only during running when it senses a misfire will it perform cylinder shut-down, but even then, it is the injector that is shut down never the ignition coil (I shouldn't say never, I have just never seen an ignition coil deactivated)
You Guys Are Awesome
👍👍
DANNER Thanks much for video. I usualy using autoscope 3. WITH PX TESP SCRIPT (MADE BY SHULGIN) HELLO FROM MOLDOVA
Great video Paul! By any chance, did you grab an ignition sync while looking at the in cylinder waveform, on the lexus? I imagine this failure would really throw off the ignition timing. Also, do you remember if the crank bolt was loose? The only time I have seen this was after a timing belt was replaced, and the crank bolt wasn't torqued down.
It is the one thing I could have done better in this review. I showed the demo vehicle with an ignition timing event taking place at 10 degrees BTDC and totally forgot to show the RX 330 with a 27 degrees ATDC signal. smh. I was being pushed for time. The original case study shows absolutely everything.
The crank bolt was not loose but I do not know how tight is was as my students took the pulley off.
ScannerDanner the shift in valve timing was more than enough to make the call. I was just curious about how it would effect the ignition timing.
Again, Great video!
It was but I was really disappointed when we edited this, that I missed that key point. Thanks my friend.
Great vid n lots of info, could you have use the Verus for this test as well, or just on the pico?
Awesome paul I love this stuff ❤️🤓
Thanks Paul for sharing
Paul, Caleb, great video and info!!!!!!!!
Really Master .. thanks Mr. Paul.
Awesome outstanding job have a great time thanks
Looking at the picture, the key way is almost exactly 1 tooth off, its the equivalent of jumping the belt 1 full tooth. With an interference engine, or a zero tolerance engine, they are lucky no valves are bent. Jealous of the pico transducer. I got creative and built my own transducer. I have the Vantage pro, so i can power the transducer off of the scope. But man that pico transducer is nice.
this is what happens when somebody does not torque crank bolt after removing
That's true. I confirm. Not enough torque on the main crankshaft bolt.
When I see that pic of the damaged keyway, I wonder why is the key not all the way into the keyway.
The damage only extends a very short distance into the keyway,
I think that might be the cause of the original fault developing over time.
My guess is this balancer and toothed pulley has been removed at some time and the key was not reinstalled correctly.
Good, perfect, excellent.
34:00 I believe the root cause of the crank "shift" was insufficient crank bolt torque.
Cam belt changed at 100k perhaps belt replaced and cam hub bolt under torqued allowing movement of cam sprocket under crank pulley. Thoughts?
Damn...looks like you have to question everything. I had a similar problem with a car that ran perfectly but just had no power. Everything looked good on the scope but it would only do 40 with floor to the pedal. I took it to my dad and he figured it out literally in 10 seconds. He asked me "Who hung that 3000 pound anchor to your bumper?"
hey paul can we sink spark timing when doing relative compression test to see if spark is timed with compression or is that not accurate way?
Hey Danner, where you explain the expansion stroke. What would the waveform look like if you had a power stroke with the transducer installed? Would you have way more pressure than the compression stroke or is pressure in the cylinder the highest during compression? Dont know if you reply to videos this old but these are gems.
I've seen some guys attempt it and from what I've seen it's just not a useful waveform. Too many variables. Especially when the variables are already many just with the regular in cylinder testing
saludos maestro es bueno sus trabajos que ace con cualquier tipo de herramienta me gustaria saver si tiene alguna pagina traducida gracais
great job SD thanks
is there belt inspection holes in the top covers? could you see the timing alignment marks? if yes, then a dial indicator in spark plug hole would work by showing the valve timing was way offset to crank location. heck, even a screwdriver carefully held/watched while aligning the marks. assuming it uses the standard practice of #1 TDC compression stroke for alignment.
of course that's how everyone used to do things before the fang-dangled computer cruft
Dear Paul
As a long time viewer of your lectures I think I can also add some criticism:
I have used the WPS500 for over 2 years and listened to J. Thorntons lectures too and there is one thing that bugs me. John mentioned that exhaust valve opening is between 30-60degrees before BBDC, please dump those numbers and just compare what you measure with manufacturers spec for the correct valve opening time for that specific car, everything else is just guessing.
I had my 1964 Jaguar run like sh..t and measured it and valve opening was at 36 BBDC now according to Johns numbers it would be within specs but the manual specified 56 BBDC, so you see how far off one can be with an estimated value. Now the Jag purrs like a kitten.
Greetings from Germany and keep up the good work.
Bernhard
John Thornton is very careful to say 30-60 BBDC is a window or guideline for most engines' EVO. I purchased or attended all his courses on this subject. He has always said: EVO can be in the window and be bad, or outside the window and be good. He always says find a spec in service information if you can, and test or find a known good if you can.
That is exactly what I wanted to say, thanks!
Bernhard
your hammock colors are the same as my country flag (Lithuania flag): D
Grat videos, I like them a lot ;)
Hi Danner! why did you connected the transducer mon cyl. # 2?
just the easiest spark plug hole to get to, no other reason in this case
ScannerDanner thank for your answer. I like the way you teach us.
those are the ones you never forget
for sure!
Never mind the spark would be right on if I'm wrong let me no still learning again hope that other comment wasn't stupid great video's
No, you were right the first time. I do have a data capture of this event and it was around 27 degrees after top dead center that the spark was occurring. According to the computer it was right on, but mechanically it was not. All of this is in the original case study. You should check it out. I know you will like it
Brilliant video! 👌
A possible cause for the crank pulley that shifted could be a high resistance of the valvetrain, increasing the load on the crank gear. Maybe an issue with tight valvesprings, or a bent valve? I realize extreme issues would cause leakdown issues though. Just a thought. Maybe a water pump that's starting to seize if it's driven by the timing belt?
I believe the general consensus is an improperly torqued crankshaft pulley bolt coupled with a poor design.
Great Video ! 👍
Could you use a 4 channel scope from snap on and get the same results as the pico? Your premium channel is great!!!
I have only used the Snap-on 500 psi transducer with the Verus and I was not very impressed with it but in their defense, I believe it was the transducer that was the issue, not the scope. There is also a difference in how you acquire long time bases for good detail. But it is a very capable scope too and with the right transducer I think it would be okay.
Thanks for the information.
interesting video Paul, Question could vibration have been an issue in causing that to happen to the keyway, could one or both of the Cog or key have been replaced at some stage before or could there have been excess wearing of the crankshaft around the Cog/keyway on the crankshaft have been the issue an cause of the Failure,? or maybe Metal Fatigue in the Keyway its self have been the issue?
Not completely sure of the cause, loose crank bolt at some point in time most likely. The original two part series is definitely worth the watch. Sign up and then cancel your subscription immediately and you won't be charged and you'll still get the remainder of the 14 days
Did you ever solve the problem with the spark signal?
Yes!, Video is linked in the description of this video. Thanks! You'll need to be a premium member to see it. See my pinned comment above about that. It won't cost you a dime if you do what I suggest.
Interesting result. How far could it have gone before having valve-piston contact on an interference engine?
not sure? good question
@@ScannerDanner I don't do really do much internal engine work but I really don't know really the "limit" on any given engine. Especially chain engines that wear the chain or have broken guides and the chain jumps time.
Got a question on a vehicle scanner danner. I got a crank no start situation. 1996 Dodge Grand caravan. Fuel is to spec no spark but put new coil pack new camshafts sensors tried to see if the problem still no spark or start just cranking
Are you getting voltage to your coil? crank sensors can cause this
Weird question: what's the model name of the projector you use for your whiteboard? is soooo cool.
it is called a smartboard
Excellent work Thanks
It was in ref to you had graft up and you said let’s see if we can get it to run so you could a better look and before that you had unplugged the fuel pump relay and I didn’t noticed if you had plugged it back in. I enjoy watching your videos, so carry on.
Excelent video
The crankshaft pulley bolt was not at proper torque which will cause your crank gear to walk in the keyway. Somebody probably didn't have a way to hold crank pulley and torque it at it's proper torque or didn't have a impact wrench.
My mom's 4.2l trailblazer has a weird issue, fuel trims and running is good but at idle at a stop light I'll get a random rough decrease of rpm and the trailblazer shakes a little but on my live data when that happens it goes from perfect fuel trims to -19 stft and the timing advance at the exact same time jumps from normal idle number to a lot higher I think like over 30 or 40. Any ideas? No check engine light and only thing that looks off is the timing advance number and the high negative fuel trim happening simultaneously.
sounds like a possible compression issue, this is a common symptom (idle only misfiring or roughness)
@@ScannerDanner Thanks could it be a timing chain going out?
@@paquesepas6696 I do think these 4.2 engines had chain tensioner issues. You will get cam/crank correlation codes when they act up.
@@ScannerDanner Thanks I'll look out for those.
One day I'll be in your class. One day
You can take it remotely right now for next to nothing! www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Thank you!
Will the pressure transducer give u an accurate compression psi number or is there a way to calculate it
Yes, the are accurate
Is there any way my son and I can meet you?? He lives just south of Pittsburgh and I'm coming to visit next weekend for the week. He's in Auto tech at his high school and would be an honor to introduce you to him
Possibly? I'm not sure yet. If we do, it would be at the school (Rosedale Technical College)
Your a great guy! Meet your fans!
How come you didn't see teeth off on cam & crank ? scoping cam and crank?
Because the crank gear also contains the crankshaft position sensor trigger wheel or reluctor, so when it shifted, it shifted in coordination with the camshafts, keeping the relationships exactly in time. But mechanically, the crankshaft itself was about 25 degrees in front of the cams (late timing)
you need to help ivan with a lexas with a duel injection system that keeps moving from one side to the other bank.
Nice !
No bent valves???
Did you replace fuel pump relay?
lol, you mean for why it wasn't starting? This truck had electronic throttle body codes and I have a case study on this listed in the description. Thanks!
Hey scanner got a car question
i like you teaching it lot better that we had in the 70.but are exame for working card at the end of the year was doing timing on the engin by valve timing with no mark on cam or crank it was done by piston one at top center and the valve position. i wonder if they still do that test
Loose crank bolt caused pulley to shift over time that why custom didn't notice problems
This crank bolt was not lose from my memory.
@@ScannerDanner tight and tighten to spec some time are different. Did it have a replacement timing belt on it?
I'm not sure to be honest
@@ScannerDanner It has been my experience that with crank pully bolts ~ Those that use a 1.25 thread pitch will frequently gaul, bind up, and reach torque prior to actually tightenting firmly on the crank. I have not seen this issue as prevalent on 1.50 pitch threads. 1990's Suzuki Sidekick / Geo Tracker / Mazda vehicles were famous for this. I have since moved away from loctite and moved to cleaning thread bore with a bottoming tap adding light oil and bottoming the bolt for depth test and then install with proper torque.
lol at "pharts" electrical noise, that's **induction/back EMF**, from a bad secondary plug/coil/wiring to ecm or faulty ground. a bad ground looks/is worse the further "upstream" distance from ground source, say ground is bad(chrysler anyone LOL) the resistance is high there, but the other component in circuit may/likely have reverse polarity(anti-spike) diodes in parallel. the diodes failing would/cause huge back pulses to ECM/PCM and death of it or ignition control module in older vehicles( often tiny capacitor built into the ICM) think ignition points condenser(capacitor)
OK, I should just shut up about it, since this is not *mechanical/electronic/etc. engineering courses, but it SHOULD be, for they have blurred the lines by pushing too much trash upstream.
signed tired of the blue dunces, whom keep proving to me and all their brilliance ( none is perfect, but for god sake TRY)
I won't spoil it, there is a case study on this, linked in the description :-)
I don't understand .if the crankshaft sensor reads form crankshaft "gear" it will make sense that didn't show any timing problem since the timing between crankshaft gear and camshaft is the same,otherwise it will throw a dtc .could you explain plz?
You got it my friend. The gear moved and stayed in time with the cams. So basically everything is running about 1 tooth behind the crankshaft itself.
How come the keyway on the pulley was stretched for only about quater way in? Does the key steel go all the length of the pulley?
It does not! Poor design
Why retarded ign. timing is lowering intake vacuum? Is this bacause the PISTON is already moving a little downwards in the cylinder on it's own , before the flame front actually start pushing on it? And from there comes lack of - 1.Power 2.Vacuum? I've been asking that question for some time and have developed this statement by myself.Please answer !
late spark = late firing = late and incomplete burn into the exhaust stroke, which = less intake scavenging due to no negative pressure by exhaust-flow "pulling it into cylinder" (the exhaust flow going out port/manifold didn't help/create a vacuum to pull new fuel and air back into the cylinder at intake stroke start) this is where camshaft timing's come into play, header's back-pressure and more..
it's a balance of many factors, to much scavenging and you'll pull the fuel/air charge right back out of the cylinder into the exhaust where it is clearly useless , unless you like to "roll coal"(diesel derp's or have exhaust flame pops or torches for the gas guys. alternately is just fogging out the folks behind you)
but what do I know, common folk like you and most all of us humans
@@throttlebottle5906 This is gold ! Thanks man ! Cheers
@@throttlebottle5906 I will also add for @Petar, that with late valve timing, the piston is already pulling down into the cylinder BEFORE the intake valve opens and so the "intake pull" (or vacuum) will be reduced.
Sup Paul
sup Matt :-)
Can it be because of a crankshaft ,pulley decalibration or alternator clutch pulley blocked ? To my car, crankshaft transmission belt pulley was decalibrated, and because of that the bolt start to lose and the timing pulley has started to make play, and at the end my crankshaft become decalibrated because i did not change the pulley in time.
I think the general consensus is this problem was caused by an improperly torqued crankshaft pulley bolt combined with a poor design
Hi 😊
hi
A sad thought: in a decade or two all this knowledge will be mute. Electric vehicles are coming and with them a completely different set of problems.
I disagree 100%, sure we won't be doing in-cylinder timing analysis but electricity and electronic troubleshooting will continue as it is and as it has been since we started using it in cars :-)
@@ScannerDanner No in cylinder pressure testing and timing analysis, but I am sure the can bus will survive in some form in the future and with it all its' problems and diagnosis. Not to mention electric motor and battery testing and their respective control electronics.
Got compression to
lol you know your wrong for that and you keep putting him on the left side
The "odd" drop in the red trace DID NOT follow the other patterns. It's timing varied in relation to compression/spark signal... I suspect that it's source is NOT cam or crank related. Whatever is causing it is at a completely unrelated frequency comared to engine revolutions...
that is correct, completely separate issue! We have that video case study too, it is linked in the description of this video. Thanks! Even if you sign up for premium for the free trial and then cancel immediately, you will still get the remainder of your 14 days. This will give you time to watch both the 2 part series on this Lexus and then also the case study on what was causing the weird additional square wave patterns on our demo vehicle in the room.