I truly enjoyed the Danchee playlist and followed all of your suggestions. I added an RC4WD Electronic Dig Unit as well as a Quickrun 880 ESC. Now I have all the features I could want. In fact, I enjoy crawling so much, I just purchased an SCX6 Honcho as well as a Gen8 V2. My wife just smiles and tells me to have fun......'am I a lucky guy or what? Thanks again for the great content and comparison of products.
My boy got enough money for his birthday to buy him a ridgerock. He asked me when can I start modifying it like mine. Ha ha! Waiting for the creek to dry up and we’ll crawl up it. Great video!
I agree 100% - my RidgeRock is the best crawler value out there. For a scale crawler I have the Redcat Gen 7 Pro which is a great scale crawler RTR package. Redcat Racing makes it possible for folks to get into the hobby at reasonalbe expense.
As someone who is re-entering the hobby as it were, I've been very impressed by the entire redcat line. Still got a soft spot for Tamiya though. Love my kits
Other than painting mine, and using 1x9 mud terrains to get it lower and less wide, i changed nothing yet. Ive used it to crawl rocks for 5-6 months, nothing has broken. It will be hard to not have rear steering on my next one. It just works perfect.
That’s great to hear of yet another Ridgerock proving capable and durable. 5-6 months on stock component is an awesome report. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Love the $150 rig performing just as well as the $500 rig! LOVE IT! I wonder if a more comparable process would be using both BONE stock on stock wheels and tires as well. I think those tires are helping the Ridgerock a little. Still a great rig for the price!
These videos swayed me from getting an axial 1/24! Once my Ridge Rock showed up my rear steering was out after only 30 minutes and so Red Cat actually slightly upgraded my servos no charge. Great introduction to the hobby . Iv now installed hyrax tires with dual stage foams and have ordered the same bead lock wheels, wheel weights , and hub extensions from your #2 episode. I also ziptied my motor and servo wiring to the center links so they would be up and away from the side links. Instead of the pen spring mod , I opted to use rubber bands , but struggled to find a good placement for them. Instead I’m using zip ties with much more precise results. After these sweet rims get here It’ll just be little things left. Metal links, metal servo horns , metal gears when they eventually strip out. I want to paint the body black. Maybe put a light bar on it. And it definitely needs a different connection type for the battery. If your looking for peak performance at the lowest possible price , THIS IS IT!
Nice video. I always enjoy your channel & perspective. I just posted the other day that the Danshee is probably the best deal in the RC world. It’s so capable for that price it’s ridiculous. And on the other side pretty much any Capra is just crazy. The articulation & grip is so good. I have the New 4 wheel steer Capra & it’s incredible. Such a great climber & crawler. And most importantly it’s super fun & brings a smile to your face. I’ve been looking at the Danshee for along time now. The price went up a bit but still cheap. I’ll probably get one eventually and do exactly what you did take both of them out to see how they compare. Love that Danshee
2 Best mods for both trucks batt. Spectrum Smart Lipo 1300mah ▪︎ 3s fits nice, lasts over 45min!! ● Tires very sticky mud/rocks Mud Slinger XL 2.2 budget friendly. They fit the factory Ridge Rock bead lock Wheels ....
Nice video. Just got back into RC with a ravine(same car by the looks of it) Having a lot of fun with it for not a lot. 28kg servos front and rear and lost the servo savers. Brass steering links made and fitted. Added a little nose weight and cut down on the flex. New lower links made up and wheel weights fitted. Tyres are next on my list. Then Im going to look at moving the ESC/trans to the top deck and cutting off the lower basket. Could mount the lower links to the upper links mount but would lose some articulation due to the top mounting points. Debating a few solutions. That section seems to be where it hangs up the most. Eventually il build a new chassis for it.
I believe you are correct that the ravine is the twin to the ridgerock. Sounds like you had great success with your build. I’d be very interested in a custom chassis!
@@SonoranScaleStudios Decided to go the custom chassis route rather than cutting. At least I can go back to the original if I stuff it up. Should be able to make an aluminium frame under 70 grams Can't share pics here unfortunately. Here's progress so far. ruclips.net/video/F640zV4lzRk/видео.html Roll on tomorrow. New tyres arrive. Stock are awful especially on the damp rocks.
5:35 all you'll ever need, bwahahaha we all know there's no cure for this hobby, heh. Thanks for the giggle. Nice video. You have a great voice for these videos, nice pacing and easy to listen to. Thanks for this video, it's an entertaining and informative capstone to your Danchee journey. The Capra is a good comparison vehicle, too - it had better be better, quite right. But the Danchee will get there too. I like it :) Keep up the great work!
How are those high clearance Everest 10 arms treating you? I’ve been thinking about swapping mine from the stock plastic ones. I’ve noticed the servos are a weak point with the ridge rock upgrade those and your compete with the Capra
i want a crawler so bad, after playing with the boss's sons and making him sum cool obstacles im hooked. but the danchee is $280 Canadian on Amazon.. iv had the slightly cheaper Everest-10 in my cart for a week, debating if i should pay that much and price freaking price just increased by an insane $120 to over $350! now im really conflicted.. is it really worth 280, is this still likely the best bang for the bucks?
Question: I just got a Danshee, do you recommend removing the foam from the stock tires? It will be awhile before I get a tire upgrade. Thanks in advance
Those stock tires are really stiff so removing the foams does help a bit. I would remove the tires from the wheels, remove the foams and coat the tires with wd40 and seal them in a ziplock. You may want to apply a couple coats but it will soften up that compound a bit. I didn’t have the success I’ve had with other tires but it did make a noticeable difference until the budget allows for a tire upgrade 👍
If you have 1.9 foams hanging about, try those. Having some support inside helps sidehill ability. You can also cut a star shape into the stock foams to give room for the tire to confirm to terrain.
i've noticed this on several different videos of the ridgerock, but why does the rear wheels seem to stop functioning randomly? it seems odd to me when comparing a 4wd and then to see the front wheels being the only ones with power while the rear is just sitting there. like comparing any offroading truck with a prius... so is that something wrong with the electronics? design flaw? if this performs this well while having this issue, it would be amazing if you could get it to be true 4wd.
What you described as noticing is accurate, it is known within the hobby as cog stalling. It is due to this design being two independent motors mounted directly to each axle without a shared gearbox. However because both motors do share a single esc the power delivery is the same to both front and rear motors. You can lessen the effects of the stall with a 3s battery (more power Scottie!) or a person could get really deep into it and set a proper transmitter powering individual esc’s with individual trim settings. At that point it’s no longer a crazy cheap crawler though so it’s not worth it. In short-totally with you, if it were more properly distributed power this thing would be even better.
@@SonoranScaleStudios agreed. it wouldn't be so bad if the rear motor was getting like 90% power, but it completely stops sometimes... alrighty, well thanks for the info and great vids :)
Cog stall is what this is called, but you need to realize this is because of the weight transfer, this only happens when most of the weight is being put on the wheels that are not turning, it's the same way in a real 4x4 if you put more weight on the front this will happen less. Any wheel with less weight and grip will spin when the one with all the weight and traction will not until more power is added. In short scale your weight by making the front or just the front tires heavier than the rear tires, it will improve the climbing capability with no other mods. Adding like 2 ounces to each rear wheel and 4 ounces to each front will dramatically improve its climbing more than any other mod
Great videos!!!! Ive swapped my tires and the servos and have used some lead wrap on my rims to get some weight onit and have removed the lower stops from the shocks to bring it down. But I have a question for anyone out there as I am pretty new to this crawler market. I was looking at putting in the hobbywing quicrun 880 and swapping out the stock motor for a set of the axial AX24004 AM27 540's and finally replacing my transmitter with the dumboRC X6 ? Just to help with the lack of power to the rear tires when climbing some steeper stuff? Am I out to lunch? any and all feed back is massively appreciated! Cheers
The issue is limited space in the motor housings. They are 380 can size from the factory. I’m looking into swapping to motors with higher torque and at the same time swapping the pinion gears front and rear. A HW QR 880 or 1080 will work well and the dumbo rc is a solid transmitter. The Flysky GT5 is a little more expensive but has great 4ws compatibility. About to start a new series on the Ridgerock taking it from budget to legit rig. All the above will be covered. Enjoy the truck and the tinkering!
@@SonoranScaleStudios thanks for the input! Cannot wait to finish the upgrades and maybe send out a video of how mines going. Going to do the pen springs this weekend. Cannot wait to see what else you plan on doing with yours! Keep up the great work👍
Can you link your wheel and tires so we can buy some? I see many options for 2.2" tires but as I am very new to this am scared to pull that $100 trigger on something that is not compatible.
The wheels in this video require a 20mm spacer due to a deep offset leading to link/tire rub on full lock. You can always use the factory plastic beadlocks and upgrade to some softer tires for relatively inexpensive. As for a quality premounted tire/wheel combo check out Duratrax Deepwoods or Showdowns in 2.2 are both a good fit on the Danchee
Yes they are currently still the stock plastic but I have metal replacements on hand. I think I have been fortunate to not have experienced any issues yet with either transmission
I went with 20mm extensions. I would only recommend if needed for full flex clearance issues. The offset on these wheels is shallow so the extensions balance it out. Otherwise they are not necessary and make the hub a little weaker
We just got 2 ridge rocks for my grandson and I been having fun.
I truly enjoyed the Danchee playlist and followed all of your suggestions. I added an RC4WD Electronic Dig Unit as well as a Quickrun 880 ESC. Now I have all the features I could want. In fact, I enjoy crawling so much, I just purchased an SCX6 Honcho as well as a Gen8 V2. My wife just smiles and tells me to have fun......'am I a lucky guy or what? Thanks again for the great content and comparison of products.
That’s all awesome to read my friend! Incredibly blessed guy indeed, thank you for sharing 👍 enjoy crawling!
My boy got enough money for his birthday to buy him a ridgerock. He asked me when can I start modifying it like mine. Ha ha! Waiting for the creek to dry up and we’ll crawl up it. Great video!
That’s awesome!! So cool to be able to share a hobby across the generational gap!
I agree 100% - my RidgeRock is the best crawler value out there. For a scale crawler I have the Redcat Gen 7 Pro which is a great scale crawler RTR package. Redcat Racing makes it possible for folks to get into the hobby at reasonalbe expense.
I didn't get a tax refund this year, or I would of had one by now. It's even worse waiting to save for one, when your neighbor has one. Oh well.
My dad enjoys his Redcat. He had fun at USTE with. For great price too.
As someone who is re-entering the hobby as it were, I've been very impressed by the entire redcat line. Still got a soft spot for Tamiya though. Love my kits
Tamiya is at the heart of every 80’s kid my friend l! Brand new Redcat truck coming to the channel next week btw !
Other than painting mine, and using 1x9 mud terrains to get it lower and less wide, i changed nothing yet. Ive used it to crawl rocks for 5-6 months, nothing has broken. It will be hard to not have rear steering on my next one. It just works perfect.
That’s great to hear of yet another Ridgerock proving capable and durable. 5-6 months on stock component is an awesome report. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Love the $150 rig performing just as well as the $500 rig! LOVE IT! I wonder if a more comparable process would be using both BONE stock on stock wheels and tires as well. I think those tires are helping the Ridgerock a little. Still a great rig for the price!
These videos swayed me from getting an axial 1/24!
Once my Ridge Rock showed up my rear steering was out after only 30 minutes and so Red Cat actually slightly upgraded my servos no charge. Great introduction to the hobby .
Iv now installed hyrax tires with dual stage foams and have ordered the same bead lock wheels, wheel weights , and hub extensions from your #2 episode.
I also ziptied my motor and servo wiring to the center links so they would be up and away from the side links.
Instead of the pen spring mod , I opted to use rubber bands , but struggled to find a good placement for them. Instead I’m using zip ties with much more precise results.
After these sweet rims get here It’ll just be little things left. Metal links, metal servo horns , metal gears when they eventually strip out. I want to paint the body black. Maybe put a light bar on it. And it definitely needs a different connection type for the battery.
If your looking for peak performance at the lowest possible price , THIS IS IT!
Awesome feedback and sounds like great results!!
Nice video. I always enjoy your channel & perspective. I just posted the other day that the Danshee is probably the best deal in the RC world. It’s so capable for that price it’s ridiculous. And on the other side pretty much any Capra is just crazy. The articulation & grip is so good. I have the New 4 wheel steer Capra & it’s incredible. Such a great climber & crawler. And most importantly it’s super fun & brings a smile to your face. I’ve been looking at the Danshee for along time now. The price went up a bit but still cheap. I’ll probably get one eventually and do exactly what you did take both of them out to see how they compare. Love that Danshee
2 Best mods for both trucks batt. Spectrum Smart Lipo 1300mah ▪︎ 3s fits nice, lasts over 45min!! ● Tires very sticky mud/rocks Mud Slinger XL 2.2 budget friendly. They fit the factory Ridge Rock bead lock Wheels ....
Cool vid, thanks for the comparison! 😎✌️
Thanks for watching 👍
Great video as always! And I see you are closing in on 1k subs soon,well deserved!👍🙂
Thanks so much, 1K is going to be cause for celebration, thanks for being part of the growth!
Nice video.
Just got back into RC with a ravine(same car by the looks of it)
Having a lot of fun with it for not a lot.
28kg servos front and rear and lost the servo savers.
Brass steering links made and fitted. Added a little nose weight and cut down on the flex.
New lower links made up and wheel weights fitted.
Tyres are next on my list.
Then Im going to look at moving the ESC/trans to the top deck and cutting off the lower basket. Could mount the lower links to the upper links mount but would lose some articulation due to the top mounting points. Debating a few solutions.
That section seems to be where it hangs up the most.
Eventually il build a new chassis for it.
I believe you are correct that the ravine is the twin to the ridgerock. Sounds like you had great success with your build. I’d be very interested in a custom chassis!
@@SonoranScaleStudios
Decided to go the custom chassis route rather than cutting. At least I can go back to the original if I stuff it up.
Should be able to make an aluminium frame under 70 grams
Can't share pics here unfortunately.
Here's progress so far.
ruclips.net/video/F640zV4lzRk/видео.html
Roll on tomorrow. New tyres arrive. Stock are awful especially on the damp rocks.
5:35 all you'll ever need, bwahahaha we all know there's no cure for this hobby, heh. Thanks for the giggle.
Nice video. You have a great voice for these videos, nice pacing and easy to listen to. Thanks for this video, it's an entertaining and informative capstone to your Danchee journey. The Capra is a good comparison vehicle, too - it had better be better, quite right. But the Danchee will get there too. I like it :)
Keep up the great work!
Good video!
Thank you!
Man... What I would do to have thise rocks locally! Beautiful crawling area
Thanks! I visited once, sold everything except my crawlers and moved. Pretty blessed to have such easy access to endless rocks 😄👍
@@SonoranScaleStudios Worth it! Theres nothing like going out and crawling. It's like meditation!
How are those high clearance Everest 10 arms treating you? I’ve been thinking about swapping mine from the stock plastic ones. I’ve noticed the servos are a weak point with the ridge rock upgrade those and your compete with the Capra
The links are a nice upgrade imho. They look better and give a performance boost for pretty cheap. I say give them a go 👍👍
Great video! What tires do you recommend in central AZ?
It’s hard to go wrong with proline trenchers!
i want a crawler so bad, after playing with the boss's sons and making him sum cool obstacles im hooked. but the danchee is $280 Canadian on Amazon.. iv had the slightly cheaper Everest-10 in my cart for a week, debating if i should pay that much and price freaking price just increased by an insane $120 to over $350! now im really conflicted.. is it really worth 280, is this still likely the best bang for the bucks?
How much is the price difference between the Ridgerock and a TRX4 Sport? For 280 it becomes a much harder sell to me personally.
does the ridge rock have like a slipper clutch or something? i keep seeing front wheels turn when reers rnt and vice versa
Question: I just got a Danshee, do you recommend removing the foam from the stock tires? It will be awhile before I get a tire upgrade. Thanks in advance
Those stock tires are really stiff so removing the foams does help a bit. I would remove the tires from the wheels, remove the foams and coat the tires with wd40 and seal them in a ziplock. You may want to apply a couple coats but it will soften up that compound a bit. I didn’t have the success I’ve had with other tires but it did make a noticeable difference until the budget allows for a tire upgrade 👍
@@SonoranScaleStudios thanks, I appreciate the advice!
If you have 1.9 foams hanging about, try those. Having some support inside helps sidehill ability. You can also cut a star shape into the stock foams to give room for the tire to confirm to terrain.
@@thindigital this is helpful, thank you!!
i've noticed this on several different videos of the ridgerock, but why does the rear wheels seem to stop functioning randomly? it seems odd to me when comparing a 4wd and then to see the front wheels being the only ones with power while the rear is just sitting there. like comparing any offroading truck with a prius... so is that something wrong with the electronics? design flaw? if this performs this well while having this issue, it would be amazing if you could get it to be true 4wd.
What you described as noticing is accurate, it is known within the hobby as cog stalling. It is due to this design being two independent motors mounted directly to each axle without a shared gearbox. However because both motors do share a single esc the power delivery is the same to both front and rear motors. You can lessen the effects of the stall with a 3s battery (more power Scottie!) or a person could get really deep into it and set a proper transmitter powering individual esc’s with individual trim settings. At that point it’s no longer a crazy cheap crawler though so it’s not worth it. In short-totally with you, if it were more properly distributed power this thing would be even better.
@@SonoranScaleStudios agreed. it wouldn't be so bad if the rear motor was getting like 90% power, but it completely stops sometimes... alrighty, well thanks for the info and great vids :)
Cog stall is what this is called, but you need to realize this is because of the weight transfer, this only happens when most of the weight is being put on the wheels that are not turning, it's the same way in a real 4x4 if you put more weight on the front this will happen less. Any wheel with less weight and grip will spin when the one with all the weight and traction will not until more power is added. In short scale your weight by making the front or just the front tires heavier than the rear tires, it will improve the climbing capability with no other mods. Adding like 2 ounces to each rear wheel and 4 ounces to each front will dramatically improve its climbing more than any other mod
Great videos!!!! Ive swapped my tires and the servos and have used some lead wrap on my rims to get some weight onit and have removed the lower stops from the shocks to bring it down. But I have a question for anyone out there as I am pretty new to this crawler market. I was looking at putting in the hobbywing quicrun 880 and swapping out the stock motor for a set of the axial AX24004 AM27 540's and finally replacing my transmitter with the dumboRC X6 ? Just to help with the lack of power to the rear tires when climbing some steeper stuff? Am I out to lunch? any and all feed back is massively appreciated! Cheers
The issue is limited space in the motor housings. They are 380 can size from the factory. I’m looking into swapping to motors with higher torque and at the same time swapping the pinion gears front and rear. A HW QR 880 or 1080 will work well and the dumbo rc is a solid transmitter. The Flysky GT5 is a little more expensive but has great 4ws compatibility. About to start a new series on the Ridgerock taking it from budget to legit rig. All the above will be covered. Enjoy the truck and the tinkering!
@@SonoranScaleStudios thanks for the input! Cannot wait to finish the upgrades and maybe send out a video of how mines going. Going to do the pen springs this weekend. Cannot wait to see what else you plan on doing with yours! Keep up the great work👍
Can you link your wheel and tires so we can buy some? I see many options for 2.2" tires but as I am very new to this am scared to pull that $100 trigger on something that is not compatible.
The wheels in this video require a 20mm spacer due to a deep offset leading to link/tire rub on full lock. You can always use the factory plastic beadlocks and upgrade to some softer tires for relatively inexpensive. As for a quality premounted tire/wheel combo check out Duratrax Deepwoods or Showdowns in 2.2 are both a good fit on the Danchee
@@SonoranScaleStudios Will those tires come off the rims so I can add weights to them?
Mmmmm unfortunately the premounted version is glued to the wheel……a bummer. You can get the tires alone and mount to the factory beadlocks
Are your transmission gears still plastic I got fed up with the gear's melting during a proper session when I ran a Danchee
Yes they are currently still the stock plastic but I have metal replacements on hand. I think I have been fortunate to not have experienced any issues yet with either transmission
what size wheel extensions are on the Danchee, and would you recommend that mod?
I went with 20mm extensions. I would only recommend if needed for full flex clearance issues. The offset on these wheels is shallow so the extensions balance it out. Otherwise they are not necessary and make the hub a little weaker
@@SonoranScaleStudios i appreciate the reply!