Great subject Jon! Camouflage application can be very therapeutic when you get into the rhythm otherwise it can cause hair loss. Never tried the pastel method I might have to give it a try. Thanks!
Nice work showing us your techniques. I never had much success mottling with acrylic paint. To much frustration with tip dry even with a bit of retarder added. Then switched to lacquer paint and it was like night vs day. Almost no tip dry, can spray fine lines with a .2 needle and it dries very fast. Unfortunately lacquers do smell so you need a ventilated spray booth and wearing a respirator is a must.....so may not be for everyone.
Right on! I just don't like the fumes in the house. But the lacquers work so much better for the fine work (like mottles). No fumes with the pastels, though 😉. Cheers!
HA !!!!!! My comment I posted that I thought it was taken down, I FOUND IT… 😆😃🤣 I sent it to one of the other subscriber… WHAT A KNUCKLEHEAD I AM… GOOD TOPIC AND VIDEO…. CHRIS 🇺🇸
I used an artists kneadable eraser. It can be found at any art-supply store. It comes as a rectangle but it can be easily molded into any shape. Cheers!
Excellent timing as I hope to get to a couple of Japanese and German aircraft soon. The type of camo on Ki 43 does drive you crazy. The one combination I'm still working on is when to use acrylic versus enamel. As always your technique delivers such a realistic model, seeing all of your examples was awesome. I found more " stash" boxes and realize my sabbatical was longer than I thought and has so many unfinished kits. Some are kind of past the point of no return but some will make great paint mules. In the interim I have bought current day kits for when my skill curve comes back. I hate to throw anything away. Ironically, many of the older kits have the same detail of kits today, however the price stickers indicate the evolution of what the dollar used to buy. On WW1 camo kits from my stash I did find one Lozenge scheme I actually made stencils on . Cheers until the next one.
Right on! I'm glad the video was timely. I use acrylic paints primarily. They're good in most applications. However, for fine airbrush work, the lacquer paints are preferred. I just don't want the fumes in the house. Cheers!
I posted a comment and it was taken down…. TRY AGAIN I’ve been wanting to try this camouflage technique on some builds… I have a sacrifice kit I can use before I try it on a specific subject… ( couldn’t tell you how many coats of paint are on it ) PRACTICE PRACTICE and more PRACTICE… I think every style you used Looks great, I will help any model builder achieve the desired look… Another great informative and ENTERTAINING VIDEO Thanks for putting this together, IT WILL HELP ME FOR SURE… you have my LIKE 👍👍👍 CHRIS 🇺🇸
Hello Jon, congratulations for the video, what great information you give us, very useful for any modeller, in my experience, I started making the speckles with a brush, giving the sensation of uniform spots, however, as time passed and I returned to the hobby, In the photographs when studying situations on the battlefields and how the mechanics or technicians carried out the different tasks on a daily basis, I was very surprised to see that many types of camouflage, which in some elite modellers seem perfect, with airbrush effects, without However, in the field photographs, many of these camouflages, whether spots or stripes, were made most of the time with brushes or fabric mops smeared with paint, without any specific pattern or standard color, two or three in the painting tasks per which the signatures are imprecise, this leads me to reflect on how much artistic fantasy there is in current modeling techniques vs. what actually happened in the past. I found the pastel technique very interesting, I am interested in making a Trumpeter bf 109 G2 in 1:32 with tropical camouflage, it would seem like a good time to apply this technique. The use of an airbrush to replicate stains is somewhat complicated, whether due to the type of airbrush, one of those cheap little ones hahahaha or a brand name one, the final result will depend on it, as well as the dilution and proportion of air pressure, in this regard, I have I have read that better results are obtained with lacquer or lacquer-based paints, such as Tamiya or Mr Hobby, to avoid spiders, it must be taken into account that it is a patient job, you must go slowly, clean the airbrush nozzle frequently , go by sections and correct if necessary. That is my experience in these types of camouflage techniques, thank you for giving us the opportunity to have feedback with our doubts or experiences, greetings and until the next video.
Thanks for sharing Francisco! You bring up a great point about photographs of the actual subjects we are modeling. If one is going for realism, there is no substitution for having good quality photos of the subject you're modeling. With a mottled paint scheme, this is even more critical and you should have multiple photos showing the entire mottled surface - unfortunately, this is almost never the case. So, we must speculate in most cases. You are correct about trying to replicate a finish using the actual methods used (brush painting, etc). It may not be pretty, but often, history isn't pretty. Cheers!
I’ve never tried this technique yet, any of them… I will practice these different styles on a sacrifice kit… I have a 1/48 TAMIYA ZERO in the stash that I want to use this camouflage look… This is a VERY GOOD TOPIC AND VIDEO… I think every example you showed looked great… PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE… Thanks for putting this together, it will help any modeler achieve the look they’re looking for… THANKS AGAIN CHRIS 🇺🇸
Definitely going to try the pastel mottling next. I have used pastel powders for weathering and adding exhaust residue but I never thought to use it for mottling! Thanks!
Excellent informational videos. Been trying to stipple on paint on my 1/35 German armor with a brush (no airbrush currently) to try to get a sprayed look and have been getting mixed results. I think I'll try pastels next... But do I purchase a whole pastel set or a small set of specific colors? I don't even think they have specific small pastel sets with red brown and olive green.
Excellent tip on the pastel technique! I need to give it a try. I was also thinking about using AK weathering pencils for a mottled effect even though it may be harder to obtain soft edges. I subscribed.
Thank you! I haven't tried the weathering pencils (though I use colored pencils for chipping, adding rivet detail, etc.). Let me know how those work out. Cheers!
Great video, Jon. I've had mixed results with pastels. As you say, the control is great, and the initial effect is perfect for exhaust and gunpower stains. However, the lighter colors tend to disappear (especially white deposits on the exhaust) when a satin clear coat is applied. Do you have advice? Thanks!
I'm working on a "rules for pastel weathering" video now where I go more in-depth on the process. You can't go lighter if you're clear coating afterward - only darker than the base color with the pastels. Cheers!
Excellent video on a subject I want to try..The pastels really look the part on the 109..As I really love Japanese aircraft and the mottle effect on their camo it’s a great option..But your painted effect on the Oscar looks wonderful too..If you was to build another Oscar,would you stick to brush painting or try with pastels.?..Thank you and all the best from the U.K👍
Great question! I would hopefully have a reference photo to see how the original aircraft mottles were applied (brushed on or sprayed). If they were brush painted, I'd use a brush. If they were sprayed on, I would use pastels. Cheers from Pennsylvania, USA!
Yup! This video CONFIRMS that I've "been doing it right" for over FIFTY YEARS of modeling 1/48 Aircraft, 1/35 Armor & Military subjects, 1/24-1/25 Automobiles, "high-end" plastic and brass HO Steam-era Locomotives & Trains, the occasional 1/144 Ship, AND 54mm-120mm Figures...
What makes me roll in the aisles is when doing german ac the approach by a lot of modelers is it has to be done as an artiste forgetting it was applied randomly not necessarily professionally!🙄 Jman
The kits have a superb finish but its hard to get an authentic finish without it looking like a bad paint job. Very had to get the right compromise between it looking war like and that it was deliberate not just poor work!
Very true. Additionally, there are usually not enough pictures to show the entire aircraft - so one is left to speculate based only on what can be seen. This is the case on most WWII era builds. The manufacturers speculate all the time (it's why I don't trust marking guides). I've found mistakes made by every brand when it comes to markings. Historical pictures are the best reference. Even those can be misleading, and most are in black and white. 🙄 Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thanks yes agreed. I am having fun attempting the spitfire prototype as it was on its first flight unpainted. Every photo reference has differences. Also when painting invasion stripes getting that compromise between it looking authentic rough and not looking like a poor modeller job. All the best.
If mottled camouflage was originally applied with a brush, brush-painting it is the most accurate way to replicate the effect. It may not result in the prettiest model, but it would be accurate. If you're simply rating the finish of the three kits, you're entitled to your opinion. Cheers!
![Airfix SPITFIRE Starter Set {CHEAP AIRBRUSH] MODELLING on a BUDGET](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f5BapNuI8VQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Ooh, good topic! 👍
Thanks!
Great subject Jon! Camouflage application can be very therapeutic when you get into the rhythm otherwise it can cause hair loss. Never tried the pastel method I might have to give it a try. Thanks!
Thanks! I love the finished product, but the process can be challenging. Cheers!
Nice work showing us your techniques.
I never had much success mottling with acrylic paint. To much frustration with tip dry even with a bit of retarder added. Then switched to lacquer paint and it was like night vs day. Almost no tip dry, can spray fine lines with a .2 needle and it dries very fast. Unfortunately lacquers do smell so you need a ventilated spray booth and wearing a respirator is a must.....so may not be for everyone.
Right on! I just don't like the fumes in the house. But the lacquers work so much better for the fine work (like mottles). No fumes with the pastels, though 😉. Cheers!
HA !!!!!!
My comment I posted that I thought it was taken down, I FOUND IT… 😆😃🤣
I sent it to one of the other subscriber…
WHAT A KNUCKLEHEAD I AM… GOOD TOPIC AND VIDEO…. CHRIS 🇺🇸
No problem 🙂.
great vid, definitely will be giving it a go with the pastels
Thank you! I think you'll like them. Cheers!
I really like the last aircraft, the Bf-108. This is a technique I will try. What did you use as an eraser? Thank you
I used an artists kneadable eraser. It can be found at any art-supply store. It comes as a rectangle but it can be easily molded into any shape. Cheers!
Excellent timing as I hope to get to a couple of Japanese and German aircraft soon. The type of camo on Ki 43 does drive you crazy. The one combination I'm still working on is when to use acrylic versus enamel. As always your technique delivers such a realistic model, seeing all of your examples was awesome. I found more " stash" boxes and realize my sabbatical was longer than I thought and has so many unfinished kits. Some are kind of past the point of no return but some will make great paint mules. In the interim I have bought current day kits for when my skill curve comes back. I hate to throw anything away. Ironically, many of the older kits have the same detail of kits today, however the price stickers indicate the evolution of what the dollar used to buy. On WW1 camo kits from my stash I did find one Lozenge scheme I actually made stencils on . Cheers until the next one.
Right on! I'm glad the video was timely. I use acrylic paints primarily. They're good in most applications. However, for fine airbrush work, the lacquer paints are preferred. I just don't want the fumes in the house. Cheers!
Very informative! Thank you!
You're welcome!
I posted a comment and it was taken down…. TRY AGAIN
I’ve been wanting to try this camouflage technique on some builds…
I have a sacrifice kit I can use before I try it on a specific subject…
( couldn’t tell you how many coats of paint are on it )
PRACTICE PRACTICE and more PRACTICE…
I think every style you used
Looks great, I will help any model builder achieve the desired look…
Another great informative and ENTERTAINING VIDEO
Thanks for putting this together, IT WILL HELP ME FOR SURE…
you have my LIKE 👍👍👍
CHRIS 🇺🇸
Right on! I'm glad you found it helpful. Cheers!
Hello Jon, congratulations for the video, what great information you give us, very useful for any modeller, in my experience, I started making the speckles with a brush, giving the sensation of uniform spots, however, as time passed and I returned to the hobby, In the photographs when studying situations on the battlefields and how the mechanics or technicians carried out the different tasks on a daily basis, I was very surprised to see that many types of camouflage, which in some elite modellers seem perfect, with airbrush effects, without However, in the field photographs, many of these camouflages, whether spots or stripes, were made most of the time with brushes or fabric mops smeared with paint, without any specific pattern or standard color, two or three in the painting tasks per which the signatures are imprecise, this leads me to reflect on how much artistic fantasy there is in current modeling techniques vs. what actually happened in the past.
I found the pastel technique very interesting, I am interested in making a Trumpeter bf 109 G2 in 1:32 with tropical camouflage, it would seem like a good time to apply this technique.
The use of an airbrush to replicate stains is somewhat complicated, whether due to the type of airbrush, one of those cheap little ones hahahaha or a brand name one, the final result will depend on it, as well as the dilution and proportion of air pressure, in this regard, I have I have read that better results are obtained with lacquer or lacquer-based paints, such as Tamiya or Mr Hobby, to avoid spiders, it must be taken into account that it is a patient job, you must go slowly, clean the airbrush nozzle frequently , go by sections and correct if necessary.
That is my experience in these types of camouflage techniques, thank you for giving us the opportunity to have feedback with our doubts or experiences, greetings and until the next video.
Thanks for sharing Francisco! You bring up a great point about photographs of the actual subjects we are modeling. If one is going for realism, there is no substitution for having good quality photos of the subject you're modeling. With a mottled paint scheme, this is even more critical and you should have multiple photos showing the entire mottled surface - unfortunately, this is almost never the case. So, we must speculate in most cases. You are correct about trying to replicate a finish using the actual methods used (brush painting, etc). It may not be pretty, but often, history isn't pretty. Cheers!
I’ve never tried this technique yet, any of them…
I will practice these different styles on a sacrifice kit…
I have a 1/48 TAMIYA ZERO in the stash that I want to use this camouflage look…
This is a VERY GOOD TOPIC AND VIDEO…
I think every example you showed looked great…
PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE…
Thanks for putting this together, it will help any modeler achieve the look they’re looking for…
THANKS AGAIN
CHRIS 🇺🇸
@@chrispacer4231 Thanks, Chris! I'm glad you found it helpful. Cheers!
Thank you for sharing your techniques. I think the diverse techniques are brilliant.
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
A wealth of possibilities for applying this type of camouflage to a variety of subjects. Thank you for sharing your skills and expertise.
Larry Landis
You're welcome, Larry!
Very interesting. Thank you.
You're welcome, Francois.
Have you tried using a camouflage stencil with airbrush?
I have not. I think it would work well for mottled camo that was applied that way in the field. Cheers!
Definitely going to try the pastel mottling next. I have used pastel powders for weathering and adding exhaust residue but I never thought to use it for mottling! Thanks!
You're welcome! I'm a huge fan of the pastels. Cheers!
Thx
@@eitansturm1573 You're welcome!
I think it's great to use pastels, it's also more practical and errors are easily corrected.
Right on, Jose! I agree. Cheers!
Excellent informational videos. Been trying to stipple on paint on my 1/35 German armor with a brush (no airbrush currently) to try to get a sprayed look and have been getting mixed results. I think I'll try pastels next... But do I purchase a whole pastel set or a small set of specific colors? I don't even think they have specific small pastel sets with red brown and olive green.
You may have to purchase a larger set to get all the colors, but check at an art store - they may have exactly what you are looking for. Cheers!
Excellent tip on the pastel technique! I need to give it a try. I was also thinking about using AK weathering pencils for a mottled effect even though it may be harder to obtain soft edges. I subscribed.
Thank you! I haven't tried the weathering pencils (though I use colored pencils for chipping, adding rivet detail, etc.). Let me know how those work out. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 will do!
Great video, Jon. I've had mixed results with pastels. As you say, the control is great, and the initial effect is perfect for exhaust and gunpower stains. However, the lighter colors tend to disappear (especially white deposits on the exhaust) when a satin clear coat is applied. Do you have advice? Thanks!
I'm working on a "rules for pastel weathering" video now where I go more in-depth on the process. You can't go lighter if you're clear coating afterward - only darker than the base color with the pastels. Cheers!
Sir hi, we want to see the whole process of how you have done the motelling, specially by an airbrush.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll try to film the process the next time I airbrush a mottled camouflage. Cheers!
Excellent video on a subject I want to try..The pastels really look the part on the 109..As I really love Japanese aircraft and the mottle effect on their camo it’s a great option..But your painted effect on the Oscar looks wonderful too..If you was to build another Oscar,would you stick to brush painting or try with pastels.?..Thank you and all the best from the U.K👍
Great question! I would hopefully have a reference photo to see how the original aircraft mottles were applied (brushed on or sprayed). If they were brush painted, I'd use a brush. If they were sprayed on, I would use pastels. Cheers from Pennsylvania, USA!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thank you for your very kind reply🇬🇧🇺🇸👍
@@themajesticmagnificent386 You're welcome!
Hi John using airbrush method at the moment bit of a pain and long process so going to try the pastel way are they oil or chalk pastel you use, cheers
They're chalk. It takes some practice but I think you'll like the method. Cheers!
Hi I know next to nothing about pastels but I do know you get chalk and oil types can you please tell me which you used. Thanks
I used the chalk type. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Great I'll get some and give it a go. Thanks for the video.
@@martin-uz1py You're welcome, Martin. Cheers!
Yup! This video CONFIRMS that I've "been doing it right" for over FIFTY YEARS of modeling 1/48 Aircraft, 1/35 Armor & Military subjects, 1/24-1/25 Automobiles, "high-end" plastic and brass HO Steam-era Locomotives & Trains, the occasional 1/144 Ship, AND 54mm-120mm Figures...
Right on!
What makes me roll in the aisles is when doing german ac the approach by a lot of modelers is it has to be done as an artiste forgetting it was applied randomly not necessarily professionally!🙄
Jman
Yes. It makes for a beautiful model, if not a realistic one. Cheers!
The kits have a superb finish but its hard to get an authentic finish without it looking like a bad paint job. Very had to get the right compromise between it looking war like and that it was deliberate not just poor work!
Very true. Additionally, there are usually not enough pictures to show the entire aircraft - so one is left to speculate based only on what can be seen. This is the case on most WWII era builds. The manufacturers speculate all the time (it's why I don't trust marking guides). I've found mistakes made by every brand when it comes to markings. Historical pictures are the best reference. Even those can be misleading, and most are in black and white. 🙄
Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thanks yes agreed. I am having fun attempting the spitfire prototype as it was on its first flight unpainted. Every photo reference has differences. Also when painting invasion stripes getting that compromise between it looking authentic rough and not looking like a poor modeller job. All the best.
@@ricardoroberto7054 Perfection is the goal, but it's not based in reality. Cheers!
1) decent
2) bad
3) quite good
If mottled camouflage was originally applied with a brush, brush-painting it is the most accurate way to replicate the effect. It may not result in the prettiest model, but it would be accurate. If you're simply rating the finish of the three kits, you're entitled to your opinion. Cheers!
Requires GNR patience?😂
Jman
Yep. Any way you apply them, it will take work and patience. Cheers!