Very useful tips, clear and simple. Nice video to watch. Thanks for sharing. This vintage Matchbox Spitfire is great in colors. 👍🏻 Best regards from 🇨🇵
Another pleasant video. Great presentation. I love the music. I just finished a Matchbox 1/72 Halifax. I blew up the instructions and cut out the cam pattern. I ended up with a lot of overspray, since the paper mask was raised in some places! I ended up using the technique you use here.
@@dunksy6 it was the Revell one and was a difficult build but it looked good. I’m building a Revell British Airways airbus 320 neo. I’m lighting it up.
@@ronmac9522 Ahh awesome! That's so cool man. I've recently gotten into airbrushing and bought an airbrush alongside my Dad, and we're looking to start airbrushing model planes together and we're just about to do a massive buy of paint and everything we need to get started, and I'm so excited! Looking at getting a Tamiya 1/48 Vought Corsair F4U-1D to start on. Have you got any general tips or advice?
@@dunksy6 I find that I sped more time cleaning the airbrush than actually using them. I do have a harder&steenbeck ultra and a cheap one I got from e bay but I tend to use brushes.
@@ronmac9522 Ah right, thats interesting! Ive thought about getting a Sparmax (Made by Iwata) airbrush to use solely for spraying bass/primer coats, as I've heard it can clog the airbrush
I suggest getting some six inch or twelve inch low-tack masking tape from a sign provider, what is used to install vinyl lettering, some being six feet wide. It can also be clear.. yeah... just think... The only reason I would use masking or a stencil is using furniture foam to press on the paint, getting a spray-paint look and any of those effects, also using that ability for fine art and any painting.
I find the masking part of modeling kinda a pain but I am learning so much from your videos and it is becoming easier and enjoyable now...Thank You for taking the time to share. Just to mention I used silly putty on the 1/48 scale hawker typhoon for the camo and it tuirned out incredibally good. I was very weary because it was a $260 dollar model (Canadian) but like I said it turned out great, I rolled it like a snake and the curves were perfect!
It must be said , i took up modelling 2 yrs ago after a hiatus of probably 50 plus years , back as a kid i was not as bothered about perfection and also airbrushing had not been invented for the home modeller . But since returning my expectations are a lot higher and i have sought countless advice on how to achieve a basic camo pattern on ww2 aircraft and all i get told is you need to do this that or the other and it works 1st time everytime . Well they must be professional painters or bulls/////TTERSlol because it NEVER works for me , most involve the use of tackworms or silly putty etc and all i find using them is an un-recorgnisable mess once completed . So after watching your video im hoping i can at least produce some work that i am happy to display instead of hiding it away through embarrassment , iI only have one question you obviously paint the plane in 1st solid colour before you add tape for 2nd colour how long do you leave 1st coat to dry before adding tape ? as i can imagine doing it too soon the paint would peel off as you pull tape off . Many Thanks for taking time to show and explain your method . all the best Tye
I recently got into building model kits (Gundam specifically) and there's a few I was wanting to attempt to give a camouflage paintjob to but had no idea where to begin. This has been a good little video, thank you so very much!
In the technique you used, you drew it and put it on glass. Are you able to just cut the tape while it’s on the fuselage/wing? I don’t know how well it works as I’ve never done camouflage so could you let me know if what I said works?
You can, but when you cut onto the model toy risk cutting into the paint or plastic. Cutting into the paint and then lifting the tape can cause the paint to lift with it as well.
Hi really enjoyed your masking technique. Question, I still paint by brush and do not have a air brush. Can you one day consider doing a video showing these type of project but by hand brush painting? Thanks for your good videos and Cheers from Sherwood Park👍
Hi Paul, sorry, I've somehow missed this comment. Always nice to meet another Albertan :) I might do something along those lines in the future. To be honest I never thought there'd be interest in something like that. But for hand brushing larger models, I'd suggest you check out some of the gaming miniature model channels as a lot of them have great painting techniques on how to properly thin and ratio paints. One that I watched quite a bit was Sorastro's Painting, I learned a lot from his channel.
Great video. i tried this on a P-40 warhark in build and it worked great untill i started removing the masking tape. It pulled up the paint and primer i had underneath it. have you ever had this happen? Do you know why this may have happened? thanks again for the great videos
@@rebelsatcloudnine it's an airfix kit and I was using AK gray primer. My thoughts were that the plastic had oils on it from my fingers before I put the primer down
@@stang8802 I've had this happen a few times with Airfix styrene. With Airfix, I like to used Army Painter "Brush on Primer" thinned with Vallejo Airbrush thinner. It's a very sticky sort of primer that I've had good results with it on past projects. You might also want to consider taking something like a 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper and lightly sanding the plastic beforehand, this will create a dull finish to the plastic and allow the primer to grip on better.
Hi, I'm about to start learning airbrush painting. Is it really safe to mask over a painted part? I have a very small raised section to paint over so I might have to really press the tape against corners with a toothpick and I'm afraid I'll either peel the paint off with the tape when I'm done, or the masked part will get covered with the sticky stuff from the tape (because I pressed it so much) Any advice is appreciated. Thank you 🙏
Hi Tomas, great question. I've rarely run into lifting problems with the paints that I use, thought it does happen. I really like the Tamiya brand tape as it has a good tack, but it's not aggressive enough most times to lift the paint. I mostly use Tamiya Acrylics, which are a lacquer-acrylic type paint. Also having a good primer like Mr. Surfacer, goes a long way to helping with the paint adhesion.
@@rebelsatcloudnine well I do plan on using primers and tamiya acrylics. Maybe when I'm done I'll just peel the tapes slowly heheheh. That's a load off my mind. Thank you so much!! 🙏🙏
Lifting happens on occasion. Best practice is to wash the model (removing oils,) then prime it. If you're not sure about some paints - maybe a new brand you haven't used - find some cheap kit you don't care about (or that turned into a disaster) and see what it does on that. (Also good for airbrush practice.) Most of my wirries these days involves paint creeping under - I tend to put a same color (or clear) layer on the edge of the tape to prevent it.
I'm going to have to use this method when I get around to building my MiG. BTW, I've got another British steam loco coming, a British Railways E4 0-6-2T by Bachmann. I'll post a photo on my IG page when it gets here.
Good video but RAF camouflage during the wars didnt have a sharp edge and unfortunately this method will only give you an unfeathered edge. But if its the look you're after then its perfect.
la tecnica è giusta,ma se vediamo il medesimo modello di un altro modellista ci saranno differenze nelle forme del camouflage,le case dovrebbero inserire disegni precisi nelle misure x fae un camouflage perfetto,non penso che quei pochi centesimi anche se inseriti nel costo creino problemi al modellista
Can you make a model of the u 96 please make it look like how it was in das boot or in real life it’s gonna take about of research so I will support you
Great info. Never thought of it. Nice painting style
This worked perfectly. Cutting on the glass. Genius.
Thanks so much i always over think the camouflage patterns and screw them up somehow. ✌🇨🇦✌
Very useful tips, clear and simple. Nice video to watch. Thanks for sharing.
This vintage Matchbox Spitfire is great in colors. 👍🏻
Best regards from 🇨🇵
Amazing technique, very creative and useful. Thanks.
This has changed my life. So simple, but brilliant.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching :)
Another pleasant video. Great presentation. I love the music.
I just finished a Matchbox 1/72 Halifax. I blew up the instructions and cut out the cam pattern. I ended up with a lot of overspray, since the paper mask was raised in some places! I ended up using the technique you use here.
That is awesome :) Please send me some pictures of that Halifax, I'd love to see it :)
Thanks for this video. I’m painting my first camouflage model and this was very helpful.
I will give that a go on my lanc tomorrow. Nice tip about marking the tape. Good job as usual sir. I look forward to your nest build.
How did it go on the lanc?
@@dunksy6 it was the Revell one and was a difficult build but it looked good. I’m building a Revell British Airways airbus 320 neo. I’m lighting it up.
@@ronmac9522 Ahh awesome! That's so cool man. I've recently gotten into airbrushing and bought an airbrush alongside my Dad, and we're looking to start airbrushing model planes together and we're just about to do a massive buy of paint and everything we need to get started, and I'm so excited! Looking at getting a Tamiya 1/48 Vought Corsair F4U-1D to start on. Have you got any general tips or advice?
@@dunksy6 I find that I sped more time cleaning the airbrush than actually using them. I do have a harder&steenbeck ultra and a cheap one I got from e bay but I tend to use brushes.
@@ronmac9522 Ah right, thats interesting! Ive thought about getting a Sparmax (Made by Iwata) airbrush to use solely for spraying bass/primer coats, as I've heard it can clog the airbrush
Another informative video my friend. I cant wait to see what is next. Have a great day.
I'm planning on it being that Spitfire I showed in the video. I've got to get going and finish up some more builds :)
Cheers, thanks for sharing. Will definitely try this method from now on.
Nice,great help for maskin and finishing the paint job! 👍🏻
I suggest getting some six inch or twelve inch low-tack masking tape from a sign provider,
what is used to install vinyl lettering, some being six feet wide. It can also be clear.. yeah... just think...
The only reason I would use masking or a stencil is using furniture foam to press on the paint,
getting a spray-paint look and any of those effects, also using that ability for fine art and any painting.
Very nice video! Thanks for sharing, because sharing is caring.! :)
And sharing is half the battle! GI JOE!!!!!
I find the masking part of modeling kinda a pain but I am learning so much from your videos and it is becoming easier and enjoyable now...Thank You for taking the time to share. Just to mention I used silly putty on the 1/48 scale hawker typhoon for the camo and it tuirned out incredibally good. I was very weary because it was a $260 dollar model (Canadian) but like I said it turned out great, I rolled it like a snake and the curves were perfect!
Nice tutorial. Gonna save to my playlist. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching :)
Great tips
Awesome, thank you for the info.
It must be said , i took up modelling 2 yrs ago after a hiatus of probably 50 plus years , back as a kid i was not as bothered about perfection and also airbrushing had not been invented for the home modeller . But since returning my expectations are a lot higher and i have sought countless advice on how to achieve a basic camo pattern on ww2 aircraft and all i get told is you need to do this that or the other and it works 1st time everytime .
Well they must be professional painters or bulls/////TTERSlol because it NEVER works for me , most involve the use of tackworms or silly putty etc and all i find using them is an un-recorgnisable mess once completed .
So after watching your video im hoping i can at least produce some work that i am happy to display instead of hiding it away through embarrassment ,
iI only have one question you obviously paint the plane in 1st solid colour before you add tape for 2nd colour how long do you leave 1st coat to dry before adding tape ? as i can imagine doing it too soon the paint would peel off as you pull tape off .
Many Thanks for taking time to show and explain your method .
all the best
Tye
Nice nice nice ... looks good ...thank u .... for the pointer
Doing a nice job on the Spitfire mate! 😊👍
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching :)
A very good tutorial!
How do u enlarge it to 72nd scale
Do you remove the tape when its wet or after lets say 1 day when its dry?
Great tutorial! Thanks
I recently got into building model kits (Gundam specifically) and there's a few I was wanting to attempt to give a camouflage paintjob to but had no idea where to begin. This has been a good little video, thank you so very much!
Glad to have helped, thanks for watching :)
theres no better way, I think this is the best
In the technique you used, you drew it and put it on glass. Are you able to just cut the tape while it’s on the fuselage/wing? I don’t know how well it works as I’ve never done camouflage so could you let me know if what I said works?
You can, but when you cut onto the model toy risk cutting into the paint or plastic. Cutting into the paint and then lifting the tape can cause the paint to lift with it as well.
Nice video, thanks! Will use that technique on my F-4 with SEA camo. After a dozen of models kinda sick of Patafix.)))
Regards!)
I think using a curved edge knife would give you a cleaner, smoother cut.
Thanks for this video
Hi really enjoyed your masking technique. Question, I still paint by brush and do not have a air brush. Can you one day consider doing a video showing these type of project but by hand brush painting? Thanks for your good videos and Cheers from Sherwood Park👍
Hi Paul, sorry, I've somehow missed this comment. Always nice to meet another Albertan :) I might do something along those lines in the future. To be honest I never thought there'd be interest in something like that. But for hand brushing larger models, I'd suggest you check out some of the gaming miniature model channels as a lot of them have great painting techniques on how to properly thin and ratio paints. One that I watched quite a bit was Sorastro's Painting, I learned a lot from his channel.
Great video. i tried this on a P-40 warhark in build and it worked great untill i started removing the masking tape. It pulled up the paint and primer i had underneath it. have you ever had this happen? Do you know why this may have happened? thanks again for the great videos
What was the P-40 kit, and what type of primer did you use?
@@rebelsatcloudnine it's an airfix kit and I was using AK gray primer. My thoughts were that the plastic had oils on it from my fingers before I put the primer down
@@stang8802 I've had this happen a few times with Airfix styrene. With Airfix, I like to used Army Painter "Brush on Primer" thinned with Vallejo Airbrush thinner. It's a very sticky sort of primer that I've had good results with it on past projects.
You might also want to consider taking something like a 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper and lightly sanding the plastic beforehand, this will create a dull finish to the plastic and allow the primer to grip on better.
Hi, I'm about to start learning airbrush painting. Is it really safe to mask over a painted part?
I have a very small raised section to paint over so I might have to really press the tape against corners with a toothpick and I'm afraid I'll either peel the paint off with the tape when I'm done, or the masked part will get covered with the sticky stuff from the tape (because I pressed it so much)
Any advice is appreciated. Thank you 🙏
Hi Tomas, great question. I've rarely run into lifting problems with the paints that I use, thought it does happen. I really like the Tamiya brand tape as it has a good tack, but it's not aggressive enough most times to lift the paint. I mostly use Tamiya Acrylics, which are a lacquer-acrylic type paint. Also having a good primer like Mr. Surfacer, goes a long way to helping with the paint adhesion.
@@rebelsatcloudnine well I do plan on using primers and tamiya acrylics. Maybe when I'm done I'll just peel the tapes slowly heheheh.
That's a load off my mind. Thank you so much!! 🙏🙏
Lifting happens on occasion. Best practice is to wash the model (removing oils,) then prime it. If you're not sure about some paints - maybe a new brand you haven't used - find some cheap kit you don't care about (or that turned into a disaster) and see what it does on that. (Also good for airbrush practice.) Most of my wirries these days involves paint creeping under - I tend to put a same color (or clear) layer on the edge of the tape to prevent it.
I have made the same model.
I'm going to have to use this method when I get around to building my MiG. BTW, I've got another British steam loco coming, a British Railways E4 0-6-2T by Bachmann. I'll post a photo on my IG page when it gets here.
I look forward to seeing that :)
Thank you
Good video but RAF camouflage during the wars didnt have a sharp edge and unfortunately this method will only give you an unfeathered edge. But if its the look you're after then its perfect.
At this scale it’s appropriate
la tecnica è giusta,ma se vediamo il medesimo modello di un altro modellista ci saranno differenze nelle forme del camouflage,le case dovrebbero inserire disegni precisi nelle misure x fae un camouflage perfetto,non penso che quei pochi centesimi anche se inseriti nel costo creino problemi al modellista
sul vetro i cutter perdono il taglio,mrglio il tappeto
Can you make a model of the u 96 please make it look like how it was in das boot or in real life it’s gonna take about of research so I will support you